CN105926136B - 保暖面料的生产工艺 - Google Patents

保暖面料的生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN105926136B
CN105926136B CN201610501391.4A CN201610501391A CN105926136B CN 105926136 B CN105926136 B CN 105926136B CN 201610501391 A CN201610501391 A CN 201610501391A CN 105926136 B CN105926136 B CN 105926136B
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顾海
徐小斌
徐应庆
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Jiangsu Tamus Textile Technology Co., Ltd
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Nantong Times Clothing Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/73—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/76—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof with carbon oxides or carbonates
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    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/67341—Salts or hydroxides of elements different from the alkaline or alkaline-earth metals or with anions containing those elements
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8214—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester and amide groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及面料生产领域，具体涉及一种保暖面料的生产工艺。它是一种由30S羊毛/涤纶和40S涤纶交织双面拉绒形成的毛涤保暖面料，30S羊毛/涤纶是由70%阳离子涤纶和30%羊毛构成，捻系数为370At；40S涤纶是100%阳离子涤纶，捻系数为350At。优点是设计巧妙，工艺完善，通过漂染克服了起毛球问题，采用本工艺柔软助剂，拉绒工艺调整，定型工艺的改善，拉绒后既保证保持厚度，又保持不掉绒。

Description

保暖面料的生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及面料生产领域，具体涉及一种保暖面料的生产工艺。
背景技术
毛涤面料指用羊毛和涤纶混纺纱线制成的织物。毛涤混纺常用比例是45:55，既可保持羊毛的优点,又能发挥涤纶的长处。几乎所有的粗、精纺毛织物都有相应的毛涤混纺品种。其中精纺毛涤薄型花呢又称凉爽呢，俗称毛的确良，是最能反映毛涤混纺特点的织物之一。有经纬全用双股线的，也有经用双股线、纬用单纱和经纬全用单纱的。通常用50～70公支双股线，较薄的织物用100～120公支双股线。织物重约170～190克/米。毛涤薄型花呢与全毛花呢相比，质地轻薄，折皱回复性好，坚牢耐磨，易洗、快干，褶裥持久，尺寸稳定，但手感不及全毛的柔滑。如用有光涤纶作原料，呢面有丝样光泽。若在混纺原料中使用羊绒或驼绒等特种动物毛，则手感较滑糯。以往毛绒保暖面料生产中容易起毛球，拉绒后厚度不能保持，容易掉绒，目前很难实现既保持厚度又不掉绒。
发明内容
为了解决上述问题，本发明提出了一种保暖面料的生产工艺，设计巧妙，工艺完善，克服了起毛球问题，拉绒后保持厚度，保持不掉绒。
为了达到上述发明目的，本发明提出了以下技术方案：
一种保暖面料的生产工艺，它是一种由30S羊毛/涤纶和40S涤纶交织双面拉绒形成的毛涤保暖面料，30S羊毛/涤纶是由70%阳离子涤纶和30%羊毛构成，捻系数为370At；40S涤纶是100%阳离子涤纶，捻系数为350At。
所述的毛涤保暖面料生产流程为漂染—脱水理布—松式烘干—全检对色—拉幅定型—拉绒机拉绒—拉绒机揉毛—拉幅定型；
1）开幅进机漂染，
羊毛涤纶除油工艺，前处理用助剂：纯碱1g/L(a)，精练剂1g/L(b)，温度70℃，保持20min，浴比为1：7；设定温度允许±1℃波动，设定时间允许±2min波动；
羊毛涤纶染色工艺，染色用染化料助剂，
羊毛活性染料 X%，
阳离子染料 Y%，
渗透剂 0.5g/l (a)，
硫酸铵 4% (b)，
元明粉 5% (c)，
抗还原剂 1g/l （d），
阳离子匀染剂A 0.5% (e) ，
毛用匀染剂B 1% （f），
分散剂 1% (g)，
纯碱 1% (h) ，
甲酸 1% （i），
机内调PH不柔软出机；染色条件：温度105℃保持30min ，浴比1：7；设定温度允许±1℃波动，设定时间允许±2min波动；
2）漂染出机—松式烘干—轧柔软剂定型—拉绒—拉幅定型；拉绒前定型轧起毛油，为起绒做准备；拉绒后定型：轧膨松剂，正面布向上定型，定型工艺风量设从大到小定型，控制布面绒面丰满度；
3）拉绒工艺:
三台联起，起毛+起毛+揉毛整理，确保绒面丰满，厚度在3.5mm。（DS 035）
所述的松式烘干的生产工艺是温度130度，车速25m/min，确保布面干燥，以便起绒整理均匀。
所述的拉幅定型拉绒前生产工艺：130度，车速22m/min，加轧起绒整理剂。
所述的拉绒机拉绒：拉绒工艺：
第一台机：车速15 m/min，顺针15-20，逆针5-8；
第一台机：车速17 m/min，顺针15-20，逆针5-8；
第三台机：车速17m/min，直针3-8，弯针10-16；
所述的拉幅定型，拉绒后生产工艺：温度130度，车速20m/min，轧轧膨松剂，正面布向上定型，定型工艺风量设从大到小定型，控制布面绒面丰满度。
本发明的优点是设计巧妙，工艺完善，通过漂染克服了起毛球问题，采用本工艺柔软助剂，拉绒工艺调整，定型工艺的改善，拉绒后既保证保持厚度，又保持不掉绒。
附图说明
图1是本发明的织针排列图。
图2是本发明的羊毛涤纶除油工艺前处理曲线图。
图3是本发明的羊毛涤纶除油工艺的染色工艺曲线图。
具体实施方式
参照图1，一种保暖面料的生产工艺，它是一种由30S羊毛/涤纶和40S涤纶交织双面拉绒形成的毛涤保暖面料，30S羊毛/涤纶是由70%阳离子涤纶和30%羊毛构成，捻系数为370At；40S涤纶是100%阳离子涤纶，捻系数为350At。
所述的毛涤保暖面料生产流程为漂染—脱水理布—松式烘干—全检对色—拉幅定型—拉绒机拉绒—拉绒机揉毛—拉幅定型；
1）开幅进机漂染，
参照图2，羊毛涤纶除油工艺，前处理用助剂：纯碱1g/L(a)，精练剂1g/L(b)，温度70℃，保持20min，浴比为1：7；设定温度允许±1℃波动，设定时间允许±2min波动；
图3，羊毛涤纶染色工艺，染色用染化料助剂，
羊毛活性染料 X%，
阳离子染料 Y%，
渗透剂 0.5g/l (a)，
硫酸铵 4% (b)，
元明粉 5% (c)，
抗还原剂 1g/l （d），
阳离子匀染剂A 0.5% (e) ，
毛用匀染剂B 1% （f），
分散剂 1% (g)，
纯碱 1% (h) ，
甲酸 1% （i），
机内调PH不柔软出机；染色条件：温度105℃保持30min ，浴比1：7；设定温度允许±1℃波动，设定时间允许±2min波动；
2）漂染出机—松式烘干—轧柔软剂定型—拉绒——拉幅定型；拉绒前定型轧起毛油，为起绒做准备；拉绒后定型：轧膨松剂，正面布向上定型，定型工艺风量设从大到小定型，控制布面绒面丰满度；
3）拉绒工艺:三台联起，起毛+起毛+揉毛整理，确保绒面丰满，厚度在3.5mm。（DS035）。
所述的松式烘干的生产工艺是温度130度，车速25m/min，确保布面干燥，以便起绒整理均匀。
所述的拉幅定型拉绒前生产工艺：130度，车速22m/min，加轧起绒整理剂；。
所述的拉绒机拉绒：拉绒工艺：
第一台机：车速15 m/min，顺针15-20，逆针5-8。
第一台机：车速17 m/min，顺针15-20，逆针5-8。
第三台机：车速17m/min，直针3-8，弯针10-16。
所述的拉幅定型，拉绒后生产工艺：温度130度，车速20m/min，轧轧膨松剂，正面布向上定型，定型工艺风量设从大到小定型，控制布面绒面丰满度。

Claims (1)

1.一种保暖面料的生产工艺，其特征在于，它是一种由30S羊毛/涤纶和40S涤纶交织双面拉绒形成的毛涤保暖面料，30S羊毛/涤纶是由70％阳离子涤纶和30％羊毛构成，捻系数为370At；40S涤纶是100％阳离子涤纶，捻系数为350At；所述的毛涤保暖面料生产流程为漂染—脱水理布—松式烘干—全检对色—拉幅定型—拉绒机拉绒—拉绒机揉毛—拉幅定型；
1)开幅进机漂染：
羊毛涤纶除油工艺，前处理用助剂：纯碱1g/L，精练剂1g/L，温度70℃，保持20min，浴比为1：7；设定温度允许±1℃波动，设定时间允许±2min波动；
羊毛涤纶染色工艺，染色用染化料助剂，
机内调PH，不加柔软剂出机；染色条件：温度105℃保持30min，浴比1：7；设定温度允许±1℃波动，设定时间允许±2min波动；
2)脱水理布—松式烘干—全检对色—拉幅定型—拉绒机拉绒—拉绒机揉毛—拉幅定型；拉绒前定型轧起毛油，为起绒做准备；拉绒后定型：轧膨松剂，正面布向上定型，定型工艺风量设从大到小定型，控制布面绒面丰满度；
3)拉绒工艺:
三台联起，起毛+起毛+揉毛整理，确保绒面丰满，厚度在3.5mm；
松式烘干的生产工艺是温度130℃，车速25m/min，确保布面干燥，以便起绒整理均匀；
拉绒前的拉幅定型生产工艺：130℃，车速22m/min，加轧起绒整理剂；
拉绒机拉绒：拉绒工艺：第一台机：车速15m/min，顺针15-20m/min，逆针5-8m/min；第二台机：车速17m/min，顺针15-20m/min，逆针5-8m/min；第三台机：车速17m/min，直针3-8m/min，弯针10-16m/min；
拉绒后的拉幅定型生产工艺：温度130℃，车速20m/min，轧膨松剂，正面布向上定型，定型工艺风量设从大到小定型，控制布面绒面丰满度。
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