CN101658470B - Moisturizer and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Moisturizer and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101658470B CN101658470B CN2009100927702A CN200910092770A CN101658470B CN 101658470 B CN101658470 B CN 101658470B CN 2009100927702 A CN2009100927702 A CN 2009100927702A CN 200910092770 A CN200910092770 A CN 200910092770A CN 101658470 B CN101658470 B CN 101658470B
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Abstract
The invention relates to a moisturizer and a preparation method thereof, wherein the moisturizer comprises the following components with weight percent taking the total weight of the moisturizer as the basis: component A: 2.5-6.5% of emulsifier, 15-25% of grease, 0.01-0.3% of antioxidant and 0.01-0.2% of chelating agent; component B: 50-60% of purified water and 2.3-8.5% of humectants; component C: 0.1-4.0% of hyaluronic acid and 4.6-10% of active humectants; and component D: 0.2-0.5% of antiseptic and 0.1-2.0% of essential oil. The moisturizer has high moisturizing efficiency, stronger waterreplenishing and water lock capability, and efficacy test shows that the moisturizer has obvious moisturizing effect and water lock effect and can reduce water loss.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, specifically, relate to a kind of moisturiser and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Physiologic Studies shows: 70% of human body body weight is a moisture, and skin is the water of human body, 18~20% of the about percentage of liveweight of water content.Healthy skin should be smooth moist and whippy, and the skin of hydropenia is unsound skin.If the skin hydropenia gently then causes xerosis cutis wrinkling and aging in advance; Heavy then cause skin to be chapped from the cold, antibacterial and virus very easily get into human body from being chapped from the cold, thereby break through the first road barrier of this protection human body of skin easily, and then make the various diseases of human infection.Therefore, guarantee that it is very important for the health of keeping body that skin has competent moisture.
For making skin keep competent moisture, to drink enough water on the one hand, smeared cosmetics on the other hand in the past on the skin and hinder the volatilization of moisture and scatter and disappear with moisture-keeping efficacy.
For traditional moisture-keeping cosmetics because the defective on the prescription causes its Transdermal absorption poor effect, absorbance low, moisturizing and lock outlet capacity all a little less than, moistening effect is lasting inadequately.Therefore, develop new prescription moisture-keeping cosmetics and have stronger realistic meaning and economic worth with efficient moisture-retention effect.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of height moisturiser of rate, strong moisturizing and lock outlet capacity and preparation method thereof of preserving moisture that has.
Moisturiser of the present invention comprises following by moisturiser gross weight each component for the percetage by weight of base:
A component: emulsifying agent 2.5-6.5%; Oils and fats 15-25%; Antioxidant 0.01-0.3%; Chelating agen 0.01-0.2%;
B component: purified water 50-60%, wetting agent 2.3-8.5%;
C component: hyaluronic acid 0.1-4.0%, active wetting agent 4.6-10%; With
D component: antiseptic 0.2-0.5%, quintessence oil 0.1-2.0%.
Said B component also comprises water solublity skin moistening oils and fats, and its content is the 2-4% of its gross weight; Said water solublity skin moistening oils and fats is one or more in water solublity Jojoba oil, almond oil and the squalane.
Wherein, the emulsifying agent in the said A component is one or more in 16/octadecyl glucoside, glyceryl monostearate and the octadecanol; The mixture of preferred 16/octadecyl glucoside and other all said components;
Oils and fats in the said A component is one or more in 15# white oil, dimethicone, vitamin E, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Oleum Cocois, olive oil and the iso-octyl palmitate; The mixture of preferably octanoic acid/capric acid triglyceride and other above-mentioned all components;
Antioxidant in the said A component is 2, one or more in 6-di-t-butyl para hydroxybenzene phenol, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, metallothionein, the Fructus Chaenomelis sulfydryl enzyme etc.;
Said chelating agen is a disodiumedetate.
Wetting agent in the said B component is one or more in propylene glycol, glycerol, seaweed extracted liquor and the D-panthenol; Preferred wetting agent is the mixture of propylene glycol, glycerol, seaweed extracted liquor and D-panthenol.
The seaweed extracted liquor that the present invention adopts is this area Sargassum extract commonly used, generally is to adopt the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction method to obtain from extracting algae.
Active wetting agent in the said C component comprises and is selected from oat polypeptide; Aloe powder; Hydrolytic collagen, one or more in plant or the plant fruit extraction liquid, wherein said plant or plant fruit extraction liquid are following one or more extracting solution: bamboo, lotus, lotus extracting solution; Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil extracting solution, Fructus Mali pumilae, peach, GRAPEFRUIT EXTRACT.
The various extracts that adopt among the present invention all are this area raw materials commonly used, extract acquisition after like bamboo, lotus, lotus extracting solution bamboo, lotus, lotus being mixed in varing proportions; Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil extracting solution extract acquisition after Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil are mixed in varing proportions; Fructus Mali pumilae, peach, GRAPEFRUIT EXTRACT mix the back in varing proportions with Fructus Mali pumilae, peach, Fructus Citri grandis and extract, and the extractant of employing can be water, and the extractant that alcohol etc. are commonly used, method for distilling can adopt this area method for distilling commonly used.Preferably, various extract of the present invention adopts the product of supercritical carbon dioxide extraction method acquisition.Various extracts also can be through commercial acquisition.
Oat polypeptide has extraordinary performance of keeping humidity through the experiment proof, and moistening effect improves along with the increase of its concentration; Hydrolytic collagen contains abundant glycine, alanine and aspartic acid; Closely similar with the composition of nature moisturizing factor; And a large amount of carboxyls that exist and hydroxyl make this molecule very easily form hydrogen bond with water in the hydrolytic collagen molecule, so it has good moisture preserving and lock water effect; In addition; The common compatibilities of the composition of preserving moisture such as hyaluronic acid, oat polypeptide, Aloe powder, hydrolytic collagen, bamboo, lotus, lotus extracting solution, Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil extracting solution and Fructus Mali pumilae, peach, GRAPEFRUIT EXTRACT, coordination each other; The activity composition rapid permeability of preserving moisture is thoroughly absorbed by Skin Cell to the skin corium of skin; Thereby the raising moistening effect, so several kinds of activity are preserved moisture composition as wetting agent more than preferred; And the preferred activity components in proportions of preserving moisture is adjustable.
Antiseptic in the said D component is the mixture of Methylisothiazolinone, phenyl phenol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate and propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, the Neolone MxP used for cosmetic antiseptic that ROHM AND HAAS is arranged commonly used.
Quintessence oil in the said D component is any one in Flos Rosae Rugosae quintessence oil, Fructus Citri sinensis quintessence oil, the Flos Pelargonii quintessence oil.
The present invention also provides the method for preparing of above-mentioned moisturiser.
The method for preparing of said moisturiser may further comprise the steps:
1) A, B two components are added respectively in the different containers, heat temperature raising to 80-85 ℃ complete to material dissolution;
2) with in A, the B two components difference suction vacuum emulsification pot, evacuation stirs or after homogenizing 6-10 minute, 50-70 ℃ is incubated 20-30 minute;
3) the C component is added in the vacuum emulsification pot, stir or after homogenizing 3-5 minute, the cooling of vacuum froth breaking;
4) in being cooled to 45-50 ℃ vacuum emulsification pot, add D component, mixing, 30-35 ℃ of discharging.
In the composition of preserving moisture among the present invention, hydrolytic collagen is similar with the composition of nature moisturizing factor, contains abundant glycine, alanine and aspartic acid, and contains carboxyl and hydroxyl that a large amount of Yi Yushui forms hydrogen bond; Oat polypeptide has fabulous performance of keeping humidity; The common compatibilities of the composition of preserving moisture such as hyaluronic acid, oat polypeptide, Aloe powder, hydrolytic collagen, bamboo, lotus, lotus extracting solution, Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil extracting solution and Fructus Mali pumilae, peach, GRAPEFRUIT EXTRACT, coordination each other; Thereby can make the activity composition rapid permeability of preserving moisture thoroughly absorbed the moistening effect that reaches expection by Skin Cell to the skin corium of skin; The effect test shows: this moisturiser has obvious moistening effect; And can reduce moisture loss, lock water effect is obvious.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is moisturiser group and blank control group moisture content change situation;
Fig. 2 is moisturiser group and blank control group hydration rate situation of change;
Fig. 3 is that the relative blank control group moisture content of moisturiser group increment rate changes;
Fig. 4 is moisturiser group and blank control group moisture loss situation of change;
Fig. 5 is moisturiser group and blank control group moisture loss rate situation of change;
Fig. 6 is the relative blank control group moisture loss of a moisturiser group reduction rate.
The specific embodiment
Following examples are used to explain the present invention, but are not used for limiting scope of the present invention.
Moisturiser of the present invention, the mass percent of pressing the gross mass of moisturiser calculates, and comprises A, B, C, four kinds of components of D:
The A component:
Emulsifying agent: 16/octadecyl glucoside 1.5%, glyceryl monostearate 1%, octadecanol 1.5%;
Oils and fats: 15# white oil 5%, dimethicone 1%, vitamin E 5%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 4%, Oleum Cocois 2%, olive oil 2%, iso-octyl palmitate 3%;
Antioxidant: 2,6-di-t-butyl para hydroxybenzene phenol 0.05%;
Chelating agen: disodiumedetate 0.05%;
The B component:
Purified water 55%, water solublity Jojoba oil 1%, almond oil 1% and squalane 1%;
Wetting agent: propylene glycol 2.5%, glycerol 2.5%, seaweed extracted liquor 1%, D-panthenol 0.5%;
The C component:
The D component:
MxP 0.3%, Flos Rosae Rugosae quintessence oil 0.5%.
Said components is prepared moisturiser by following method, and its concrete steps are:
1) A, B two components are added respectively in oil cauldron and the kettle, heat up be heated to 85 ℃ complete to material dissolution;
2) with in A, the B two components difference suction vacuum emulsification pot, evacuation, stirring, homogenizing were incubated 30 minutes after 10 minutes;
3) the C component is added in the vacuum emulsification pot, homogenizing is after 5 minutes, and the vacuum froth breaking is lowered the temperature;
4) in cooling to 50 ℃ vacuum emulsification pot, add the D component, after fully stirring, 35 ℃ of dischargings.
Moisturiser of the present invention, the mass percent of pressing the gross mass of moisturiser calculates, and comprises A, B, C, four kinds of components of D:
The A component:
Emulsifying agent: 16/octadecyl glucoside 1.5%, glyceryl monostearate 0.8%, octadecanol 1.2%;
Oils and fats: 15# is from oil 4%, dimethicone 2%, vitamin E 5.5%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 4.5%, Oleum Cocois 2.5%, olive oil 1.5%, iso-octyl palmitate 2.5%;
Antioxidant: superoxide dismutase 0.15%;
Chelating agen: disodiumedetate 0.05%;
The B component:
Contain purified water 52%, water solublity Jojoba oil 1%, almond oil 1% and squalane 1.1%;
Wetting agent: propylene glycol 2%, glycerol 2%, seaweed extracted liquor 1.5%, D-panthenol 1%;
The C component:
Hyaluronic acid 1.5%, oat polypeptide 5%, hydrolytic collagen 3%, Aloe powder 1%, Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil extracting solution 1%;
The D component:
MxP0.3%, Flos Rosae Rugosae quintessence oil 0.4%.
Said components is prepared moisturiser by following method, and its concrete steps are:
1) A, B two components are added respectively in oil cauldron and the kettle, heat up be heated to 80 ℃ complete to material dissolution;
2) with in A, the B two components difference suction vacuum emulsification pot, evacuation, stirring, homogenizing are after 8 minutes, and 50 ℃ are incubated 25 minutes;
3) the C component is added in the vacuum emulsification pot, homogenizing is after 5 minutes, and the vacuum froth breaking is lowered the temperature;
4) in cooling to 45 ℃ vacuum emulsification pot, add the D component, after fully stirring, 30 ℃ of dischargings.
Moisturiser of the present invention, the mass percent of pressing the gross mass of moisturiser calculates, and comprises A, B, C, four kinds of components of D:
The A component:
Emulsifying agent: 16/octadecyl glucoside 1%, glyceryl monostearate 1.5%, octadecanol 0.5%;
Oils and fats: 15# white oil 4%, dimethicone 2%, vitamin E 4.5%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 4%, Oleum Cocois 2%, olive oil 1.5%, iso-octyl palmitate 1.5%;
Antioxidant: metallothionein 0.05%;
Chelating agen: disodiumedetate 0.08%;
The B component:
Purified water 57%, water solublity Jojoba oil 1%, almond oil 1% and squalane 0.07%;
Wetting agent: propylene glycol 2%, glycerol 2%, seaweed extracted liquor 2%, D-panthenol 0.5%;
The C component:
Hyaluronic acid 1.5%, oat polypeptide 4.5%, hydrolytic collagen 2%, Aloe powder 1.5%, Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil extracting solution 0.5%;
The D component:
MxP 0.2%, Flos Pelargonii quintessence oil 0.6%.
Said components is prepared moisturiser by following method, and its concrete steps are:
1) A, B two components are added respectively in oil cauldron and the kettle, heat up be heated to 80 ℃ complete to material dissolution;
2) with in A, the B two components difference suction vacuum emulsification pot, evacuation, stirring, homogenizing are after 6 minutes, and 60 ℃ are incubated 20 minutes;
3) the C component is added in the vacuum emulsification pot, homogenizing is after 3 minutes, and the vacuum froth breaking is lowered the temperature;
4) in cooling to 48 ℃ vacuum emulsification pot, add the D component, after fully stirring, 35 ℃ of dischargings.
Moisturiser of the present invention, the mass percent of pressing the gross mass of moisturiser calculates, and comprises A, B, C, four kinds of components of D:
The A component:
Emulsifying agent: 16/octadecyl glucoside 1.5%, glyceryl monostearate 0.5%, octadecanol 0.5%;
Oils and fats: 15# white oil 3%, dimethicone 1%, vitamin E 3%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 2%, Oleum Cocois 2%, olive oil 2%, iso-octyl palmitate 2%;
Antioxidant: superoxide dismutase 0.05%;
Chelating agen: disodiumedetate 0.05%;
The B component:
Wetting agent: propylene glycol 3%, glycerol 3%, seaweed extracted liquor 2%, D-panthenol 0.5%;
The C component:
Hyaluronic acid 2.5%, oat polypeptide 4%, hydrolytic collagen 2%, Aloe powder 1%, Fructus Mali pumilae, peach, GRAPEFRUIT EXTRACT 0.5%;
The D component:
MxP 0.3%, Fructus Citri sinensis quintessence oil 0.5%.
Said components is prepared moisturiser by following method, and its concrete steps are:
1) A, B two components are added respectively in oil cauldron and the kettle, heat up be heated to 85 ℃ complete to material dissolution;
2) with in A, the B two components difference suction vacuum emulsification pot, evacuation, stirring, homogenizing are after 10 minutes, and 65 ℃ are incubated 30 minutes;
3) the C component is added in the vacuum emulsification pot, after homogenizing 3-5 minute, the cooling of vacuum froth breaking;
4) in cooling to 50 ℃ vacuum emulsification pot, add the D component, behind the homogenizing, 35 ℃ of dischargings.
Embodiment 5
Moisturiser of the present invention, the mass percent of pressing the gross mass of moisturiser calculates, and comprises A, B, C, four kinds of components of D:
The A component:
Emulsifying agent: 16/octadecyl glucoside 3%, glyceryl monostearate 2.5%, octadecanol 1%;
Oils and fats: 15# white oil 5%, dimethicone 3%, vitamin E 5%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 3%, Oleum Cocois 3%, olive oil 3%, iso-octyl palmitate 3%;
Antioxidant: glutathione peroxidase 0.25%;
Chelating agen: disodiumedetate 0.15%;
The B component:
Wetting agent: propylene glycol 3%, glycerol 3%, seaweed extracted liquor 2%, D-panthenol 0.5%;
The C component:
Hyaluronic acid 0.5%, oat polypeptide 2%, hydrolytic collagen 2%, Aloe powder 0.5%, bamboo, lotus, lotus extracting solution 0.5%;
The D component:
MxP 0.3%, Flos Pelargonii quintessence oil 0.5%.
Said components is prepared moisturiser by following method, and its concrete steps are:
1) A, B two components are added respectively in oil cauldron and the kettle, heat up be heated to 85 ℃ complete to material dissolution;
2) with in A, the B two components difference suction vacuum emulsification pot, evacuation, stirring, homogenizing are after 10 minutes, and 70 ℃ are incubated 30 minutes;
3) the C component is added in the vacuum emulsification pot, after homogenizing 3-5 minute, the cooling of vacuum froth breaking;
4) in cooling to 50 ℃ vacuum emulsification pot, add the D component, behind the homogenizing, 35 ℃ of dischargings.
Embodiment 6
The moisturiser of getting the embodiment of the invention 1 carries out effect to be measured, and concrete method of testing and test result are following:
One, experimental principle
Human experimentation, the crowd forms test population by particular experiment, and test subject makes the variation of (and cosmetic industry composition) front and back moisture of skin and moisture loss that applies some make up, thereby confirms the moisture-keeping efficacy of cosmetics (or functional component).
Two, experimental apparatus
Moisture content of skin test Corneometer CM825 (German CK), moisture scatter and disappear through skin and test Tewameter TM300 (German CK).
Three, experiment crowd and testing time
The experimenter amounts to 15 people.Concrete sex composition and age structure are confirmed at random.
Testing time is on 07 28th, 2009 on 07 31st, 2009.
Four, experimental technique
Select the left and right arm of experimenter cycle labeling successively: receive examination zone and blank zone;
Use Corneometer CM825 test moisture content of skin by the technical staff, adopt Tewameter TM300 to measure moisture, average, be designated as blank value through the skin windage.
Smear sample at experimenter's arm experiment position, be used alternatingly the moisturiser sample successively, blank is tried the zone and is not used any cosmetics.
The experimenter make applied some make up 1,2,4 hour after, test moisture content of skin and moisture are lost through skin, 5 times, average.
The statistics experimenter tests the numerical value that the position records at every turn, analyzes its moisture of skin and moisture loss Changing Pattern.
Five, interpretation of result
(1) moisture content change
Moisture content change was reflected in test period, Experimental Area moisture change with time.Its value is big more, and moisture is big more, otherwise moisture is more little.The result sees shown in Figure 1, and experimental result shows: 1) adopt the t method of inspection that experimental data is carried out significance analysis, the result shows: relative initial value, and all there are significant difference (p<0.05) in moisturiser sample and blank control group paired comparison moisture result; The moisturiser sample exists significant difference different the 1st hour beginning back with blank control group; 2) in the moisture content change, moisturiser sample moisture obviously is higher than blank control group always.
(2) hydration rate changes
The hydration rate situation of change of this index illustrative experiment group and blank control group, the result sees shown in Figure 2, and the result shows that the explanation of hydration rate change curve finished since 1 hour to 4 hours, and the moisturiser hydration rate is higher than blank control group sample (p<0.05) always; The maintenance moisture effect of comparing with blank is obvious.
(3) moisture relative growth rate
The situation of change of the relative blank control group of this index illustrative experiment group.The result sees shown in Figure 3, and the result shows, relative blank control group, and moisturiser sample moisture after use is in rising trend, and moistening effect is (p<0.05) obviously.
(4) moisture loss situation
The moisture loss variation is reflected in test period Experimental Area moisture loss change with time.Its value is more little, and moisture loss is few more, and the lock outlet capacity is strong more; Otherwise, the lock outlet capacity more a little less than.The result sees shown in Figure 4, adopts the t method of inspection that experimental data is carried out significance analysis, compares with 0 hour, and the moisturiser moisture loss is starkly lower than blank control group, and there is significant difference (p<0.05) in data; The result shows that moisturiser sample fluid loss is starkly lower than blank control group, and obvious lock water effect is arranged.
(5) moisture loss rate
The moisture loss of this index illustrative experiment group and blank control group reduces situation of change.The result sees shown in Figure 5, compares with blank, and moisturiser sample moisture loss rate is in negative value always; And be starkly lower than blank control group (p<0.05); Bound moisture keeps situation can explain that the moisturiser sample has the lock of continuing water effect.
(6) the relative reduction rate of moisture loss
The moisture loss situation of change of the relative blank control group of this index illustrative experiment group.The result sees shown in Figure 6, and the result shows, relative blank control group, and moisturiser sample moisture loss rate is in negative value (p<0.05) always, and obviously the moisturiser sample has the lock of continuing water effect.
(7) conclusion
Comprehensive moisture and moisture loss situation, moisturiser has obvious moistening effect, and can reduce moisture loss, and lock water effect is obvious.
Claims (6)
1. moisturiser, by following be that each component of the percetage by weight of base is formed by the moisturiser gross weight:
A component: emulsifying agent 2.5-6.5%; Oils and fats 15-25%; Antioxidant 0.01-0.3%; Chelating agen 0.01-0.2%; Said emulsifying agent is the mixture of 16/octadecyl glucoside, glyceryl monostearate and octadecanol; Said oils and fats is the mixture of 15# white oil, dimethicone, vitamin E, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Oleum Cocois, olive oil and iso-octyl palmitate; Said antioxidant is 2, one or more in 6-di-t-butyl para hydroxybenzene phenol, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, metallothionein, the Fructus Chaenomelis sulfydryl enzyme; Said chelating agen is a disodiumedetate;
B component: purified water 50-60%, wetting agent 2.3-8.5%, water solublity skin moistening oils and fats 2-4%; Said water solublity skin moistening oils and fats is one or more in water solublity Jojoba oil, almond oil and the squalane;
C component: hyaluronic acid 0.1-4.0%, active wetting agent 4.6-10%;
D component: antiseptic 0.2-0.5%, quintessence oil 0.1-2.0%.
2. moisturiser as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the wetting agent in the said B component is one or more in propylene glycol, glycerol, seaweed extracted liquor and the D-panthenol.
3. moisturiser as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the active wetting agent in the said C component comprises and is selected from oat polypeptide; Aloe powder; Hydrolytic collagen, one or more in plant or the plant fruit extraction liquid, wherein said plant or plant fruit extraction liquid are following one or more extracting solution: bamboo, lotus, lotus extracting solution; Oleum sesami and wheat germ oil extracting solution, Fructus Mali pumilae, peach, GRAPEFRUIT EXTRACT.
4. moisturiser as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, the antiseptic in the said D component is the mixture of Methylisothiazolinone, phenyl phenol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate and propyl p-hydroxybenzoate.
5. moisturiser as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, said quintessence oil is any one in Flos Rosae Rugosae quintessence oil, Fructus Citri sinensis quintessence oil, the Flos Pelargonii quintessence oil.
6. the method for preparing of moisturiser as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, may further comprise the steps:
1) A, B two components are added respectively in the different containers, heat temperature raising to 80-85 ℃ complete to material dissolution;
2) with in A, the B two components difference suction vacuum emulsification pot, evacuation stirs or after homogenizing 6-10 minute, 50-70 ℃ is incubated 20-30 minute;
3) the C component is added in the vacuum emulsification pot, stir or after homogenizing 3-5 minute, the cooling of vacuum froth breaking;
4) in being cooled to 45-50 ℃ vacuum emulsification pot, add D component, mixing, 30-35 ℃ of discharging.
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CN101292948A (en) * | 2007-04-23 | 2008-10-29 | 李淑华 | Moisture-keeping cosmetic |
CN101444456A (en) * | 2007-11-26 | 2009-06-03 | 天津市金圭谷木糖醇有限公司 | Cosmetic moisturizer containing xylitol |
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