ES2353541B1 - COMBINATION OF COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION OBTAINED FROM THE SAME, AND ITS USE. - Google Patents

Abstract

Combination of cosmetic active ingredients and cosmetic composition obtained from it, and its utilization.

The present invention relates to a new combination of cosmetic active ingredients that include Croton lechleri resin and panthenol with antioxidant properties. It also refers to cosmetic compositions that include said combination, and the use thereof to reduce the effects of irritating aggressions to the skin, in particular the effects of laser radiation thereon.

Description

Combination of cosmetic active ingredients and cosmetic composition obtained from it, its production procedure and use thereof.

Technical field

The present invention relates to a new combination of cosmetic active ingredients with properties antioxidants that can be used to reduce the effects of irritating skin aggressions.

Prior art

The effects on the skin of aggressions produced by the outside environment (solar radiation, cold, water, wind, etc.), as well as due to the passage of time, produce changes on the skin caused by oxidative chemical reactions, which they generate a deterioration of their properties, accelerating the process of aging.

In order to minimize the damage caused both for the environmental aggression and for the effects due to aging, the topical application of products has been described cosmetics that include active ingredients of natural origin with anti-inflammatory or antioxidant properties.

In the PCT patent application WO-A-2004/103320 topical compositions are described to reduce the effects of chronological aging and skin photoaging. Such compositions include, as active components, an agonist of the liver X receptors ( Liver-X-Receptor , LXR) and retinoic acid or a precursor thereof. Among these agonists, the resin of blood of dragon tree, from the tree Daemorgos draco, is cited .

In the PCT patent application WO-A-2004/103376, topical compositions for increasing the synthesis of decorin and fibronectin skin, connective tissue proteins, and thereby reducing the effects of chronological aging and photo aging of the skin are described. skin. More specifically, an oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion containing dragon blood resin from the Daemonorops draco tree is described.

In US Pat. No. 3809749, topical pharmaceutical compositions are described which include extracts of C. lechleri as the main active ingredient and which are suitable for the treatment of small cuts, abrasions and skin wounds. Such compositions include cosmetic components for obtaining creams, ointments, lotions, emulsions of the water-in-oil type (W / O), emulsions of the oil-in-water type (O / W). Formulations that include other active ingredients, for example antibiotics and local anesthetics, are also described to obtain complementary effects.

The application of laser radiation on the skin, for both aesthetic and therapeutic reasons, it gives rise to different side and side effects due essentially to heat accumulated on the cells of the epidermis and dermis, and to the reactive inflammatory response to physical aggression that is Light radiation induces in the exposure area.

All this translates into dehydrated skin, with continuity solutions on its surface, unstructured, thinned and edematized, which usually causes patients to feeling of tightness, itching and local stinging, becoming more prone to experience superinfections and subsequently to the appearance of hyper or post-inflammatory hypopigmentation residuals, as well as a skin where the wrinkles of Expression and tension lines.

The cosmetic compositions described in the state of the art are not appropriate to alleviate effects produced by laser radiation on the skin.

Therefore, there is still a need for have an appropriate cosmetic composition to reduce irritating aggressions to the skin produced when applied laser radiation for dermatological purposes.

Object of the invention

An object of the invention is a combination of Cosmetic active ingredients It is also an integral part of the invention a cosmetic composition that includes said combination.

Another object of the invention is the use of said combination in the preparation of a cosmetic composition to reduce the effects of skin aggressions.

The object of the invention is also the use of the cosmetic composition obtained from the combination of the invention to reduce the effects of skin aggressions

It is also part of the object of the invention a procedure to reduce the effects of attacks on skin, which includes applying an amount to the skin Cosmetically effective composition or combination of the invention.

Detailed description of the invention

The authors of the present invention have now discovered a combination of cosmetic active ingredients with antioxidant properties that surprisingly presents a synergistic effect and that is appropriate to reduce aggressions skin irritants, in particular the effects of radiation To be.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is a combination of cosmetic active ingredients that understands:

to)

Croton lechleri resin, and

b)

panthenol

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The ratio between Croton lechleri resin and panthenol is between 1: 500 and 1: 2, expressed in weight: weight, preferably between 1: 200 and 1:10, especially between 1: 100 and 1:20, with special preference between 1:50 and 1:30 and in particular between 1:45 and 1:35. In an embodiment of the invention, the particularly preferred ratio is 1:40.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention includes a combination of active ingredients consisting essentially of Croton lechleri resin and panthenol.

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Croton lechleri resin

Croton lechleri is the scientific name of the tree called "dragon's blood", belonging to the Euphorbiaceae family. From this tree a resin is extracted whose most active components are proanthocyanidins and the taspin alkaloid. Other components of the resin are lignans, polyunsaturated fatty acids, pigments and flavonoids.

In the review article by K. Jones, Review of Dragoon Blood (Croton Lechleri) - A South American Tree Sap in the Treatment of Diarrhea, Inflammation, Insect Bites, Viral Infections, and Wounds: Traditional Uses to Clinical Research , J. Altern Complem Med., 2003, 9 (6), 877-896, describes the traditional properties and applications of C. lechleri resin.

C. lechleri resin can be found commercially, for example in the form of a hydro-glycol solution (water and propylene glycol), under the name Dragon's Blood, from the Cobiosa company, the resin content being between 1% and 5% in weight.

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Panthenol

Panthenol is a compound that belongs to Vitamin B group and is transformed to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) in the skin, so it is also called provitamin B_ {5}.

Said compound is well known in the industry cosmetic, since they have been used for years as an agent skin moisturizer, also presenting properties anti-inflammatory

Panthenol is a chemical compound that has a chiral carbon atom, therefore existing in the form enantiomeric, of them only D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is biologically active. However, both enantiomers exhibit moisturizing activity and in the compositions Cosmetics can be used both D-panthenol and the racemic mixture that includes D-panthenol and L-Panthenol

In the combination of the invention, panthenol is selected between D-panthenol and the racemic mixture, preferably D-panthenol is used.

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Compositions

It is also the object of the invention a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of the invention and A cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

The combination of the invention can be formulated in the form of cosmetic compositions to facilitate its application.

In general, such cosmetic compositions they contain:

-

between 1% and 20% by weight of the combination of the invention, and

-

between 80% and 99% by weight of a vehicle cosmetically acceptable,

adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

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The compositions of the invention contain preferably between 1.5% and 10% by weight of the combination of the invention, especially between 2% and 8% by weight and with special preference between 4% and 6% by weight of the combination of invention.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains between 1% and 5% by weight, especially between 2% and 4% by weight and in particular between 2.5% and 3.5% by weight. weight of a combination of Croton lechleri and panthenol resin containing between 1% and 5% by weight of resin and between 0.5% and 5% by weight, especially between 1% and 4% in weight and in particular between 1.5% and 3% by weight of panthenol.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the composition of the invention, it contains 3% by weight of a combination of Croton lechleri resin and panthenol containing between 1.5% and 1.75% by weight of resin and 2 % by weight of panthenol, especially 3% by weight of a combination of Croton lechleri and panthenol containing between 1.5% and 1.75% by weight of resin and 2% by weight of D-panthenol.

The compositions of the invention include a cosmetically acceptable vehicle in which they are located dissolved, emulsified, dispersed or suspended ingredients Cosmetics Said vehicle is selected from water, a vehicle is not aqueous miscible in water, for example ethanol, isopropanol, and a non-aqueous vehicle not miscible with water, for example paraffin. Preferably the compositions of the invention include Water as a vehicle.

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain, in addition to the combination of the invention, the less an additional cosmetic ingredient, for example ingredients cosmetic assets, auxiliary products and additional additives, which can be selected from the group formed by agents surfactants and emulsifiers, lipid compounds and emollients, consistency factors and thickening agents, stabilizers, hydrotropes, preservatives, essences, dyes and mixtures of the same. They can also include other components such as silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UV sun protection factors, film-forming, self-tanning or tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents).

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain, in addition to the combination of the invention, a additional cosmetic ingredient selected from the group formed by surfactants and emulsifiers, compounds lipids and emollients, consistency factors and agents thickeners, hydrotropes, preservatives and mixtures of same.

The composition obtained from the combination of ingredients of the present invention can be administer in various cosmetic presentations, preferably these are in the form of creams, lotions, milks and sprayable emulsions.

Such compositions contain water and a phase lipophilic and usually present in the form of emulsions or dispersions, for example of the oil in water (O / W) type, water in oil (W / O), multiple emulsions (W / O / W) or emulsions of the type PIT, as described in the Spanish patent ES 2169908-T3, or as microemulsions. Preferably They are in the form of oil-in-water emulsion (O / W).

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions Cosmetics of the invention contain:

-

between 1% and 10% by weight of the combination of the invention,

-

between 5% and 50% by weight of at least one cosmetic ingredient additional, and

-

between 40% and 94% by weight of a vehicle cosmetically acceptable,

adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

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In this preferred embodiment, the content of additional cosmetic ingredient present in the cosmetic composition of the invention is comprised between 10% and 45% by weight, in especially between 15% and 35% by weight and in particular between 20% and 25% by weight, with respect to the total composition.

In this preferred embodiment, the content of vehicle present in the cosmetic composition of the invention is between 50% and 90% by weight, especially between 55% and 87% by weight and in particular between 65% and 85% by weight, with Regarding the total composition.

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Additional cosmetic active ingredients

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further includes a cosmetic active ingredient selected from the group consisting of: Centella asiatica extract, aloe vera gel, rosehip oil, sweet almond oil, shea butter, glycyretic acid , vitamin E and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Centella asiatica is a small annual climbing plant of the Apiaceae family, which grows in tropical areas. It is also known by Gotu Kola. The main components of this plant are triterpenic derivatives, abundant tannins, essential oil, phytosterols and mucilages. It is traditionally used for its healing and relaxing power, since it favors the synthesis of collagen. In general, Centella asiatica extract is marketed as a hydro-glycolic extract (water and propylene glycol), for example through the Provital company, and has a dry residue comprised between 2.5% and 3.5% by weight.

In the composition of the invention, the content of Centella asiatica extract ranges between 1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight, especially between 2.5% and 3, 5% by weight.

Aloe vera gel is obtained from the succulent Aloe barbadensis plant of the Asphodelaceae family. The leaves of this plant are composed of three layers: an outer leathery protection, a fibrous layer under it and a jelly-like heart where it stores its water reserves and with which pharmaceutical and cosmetic products are prepared. The use of aloe vera gel for the treatment of skin conditions is remarkably widespread. On the market you can find aloe vera gel extracted from the plant with a solids content of approximately 0.5% by weight, and which is called 1: 1 gel. It can also be found in the form of a concentrated gel to which part of the water has been extracted. For example, the 2: 1 concentrated gel has solids content of about 1% by weight; the 10: 1 concentrated gel has a solids content of about 5% by weight; The 40: 1 concentrated gel has a solids content of approximately 20% by weight. There are also 100: 1 and 200: 1 atomized products, which make it possible to reconstitute the original gel by mixing a part of it and 99 parts of water or 1 part and 199 parts of water respectively.

In the composition of the invention preferably a 10: 1 concentrated aloe vera gel, of so that the combination of 1 part of said gel with 9 parts of Water leads to the original gel of the plant.

In the composition of the invention, the content 10: 1 concentrated aloe vera gel ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, especially between 2% and 5% and in particular between 2.5% and 4%.

Rosa mosqueta is a plant belonging to the Rosaceae family, which includes three species: Rosa moschata, Rosa canina and Rosa rubiginosa . It is a shrub with thin, flexible and very thorny branches, which can exceed 2 meters high. At present it is extended by diverse zones of the planet, especially in regions of temperate climate. The oil is extracted from the seeds that contain its fruits. Said oil is used in the cosmetic industry due to the beneficial effects it produces on the skin, for example hydration of aging skin, prevention of stretch marks, and also in the treatment of scars, burns, melanomas, dermatitis and psoriasis.

In the composition of the invention, the content Rosehip oil ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 3% by weight, especially between 0.3% and 1% by weight and in particular between 0.4% and 0.6% in weight.

Sweet almond oil is obtained from the fruit of the almond tree ( Prunus dulcis ), from the Rosaceae family, which originates in the regions of Central Asia. Sweet almond oil can be obtained by means of the cold pressing technique, and the product thus obtained can be further refined to reduce the intensity of the aroma, although some of its properties are also lost in said refining process. Said oil is used in cosmetics for its emollient, softening, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.

In the composition of the invention, the content of sweet almond oil ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, especially between 3% and 8% by weight and in particular between 4% and 7% by weight.

Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the fruit of Butyrospermum parkii , a tree that grows wild in a wide area of central Africa. Its composition is very complex, and palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acids can be identified, as well as an unsaponifiable fraction that gives it a great moisturizing and emollient capacity.

In the composition of the invention, the content Shea butter ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight and especially between 1.5% and 3% by weight.

Glycyrrhetic acid or glycyrrhizinic acid is obtained by hydrolysis of glycyrrhizic acid, which in turn is extracted from licorice root ( Glycyrrhiza glabra ). Glycyrrhetic acid has soothing, anti-inflammatory and healing properties and, therefore, is used in cosmetics to protect the skin from external aggressions.

In the composition of the invention, the content of glycyrrhetic acid ranges from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight and especially between 0.4% and 1% by weight.

Vitamin E or α-tocopherol is a fat-soluble vitamin that It acts as an antioxidant. It is found in many foods, mainly of plant origin, especially those with green leaves, seeds, including broccoli, spinach, soybeans, germ of wheat and brewer's yeast; can also be found in Animal foods such as egg yolk. Commercially the Vitamin E can also be found in ester form with acid acetic, as in α-tocopherol acetate. Said compound is less acidic and is the derivative of vitamin E that It is commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

Preferably, in the composition of the invention is used α-tocopherol acetate and Its content ranges between 0.05% and 2% by weight, especially between 0.1% and 1% by weight and in particular between 0.15% and 0.5% by weight.

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Surfactants and emulsifiers

Compositions of the invention may include additionally surfactants to facilitate the solution, emulsion, dispersion or suspension of cosmetic components.

Surfactants can be anionic, not ionic, cationic and / or amphoteric. They are preferably used nonionic surfactants.

The content of surfactants is is between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 20%, especially between 3% and 10% and in particular between 4% and 8%.

Typical examples of surfactants anionics are, to name a few, soaps, sulphonated alkanes, sulphonated olefins, alkyl sulfates, alcohol ethersulfates fatty, glycerin ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and sulfosuccinamates dialkyl, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, isethionates of fatty acids, fatty acid sarcosinates, acid taurides fatty, N-acylamino acids. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are, among others, fatty alcohols polyalkoxylated, polyalkoxylated fatty acids, acid amides polyalkoxylated fats, polyalkoxylated fatty amines, triglycerides alkoxylated, mixed ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkylglucamides of fatty acids, esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters and amine oxides. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are, among others, quaternary ammonium compounds and quaternized salts of esters of trialkanolamines and fatty acids, for example Esterquats. Typical examples of amphoteric surfactants are, among other, alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetains.

In the case of said surfactants, these are exclusively known compounds, whose structure and production are well known to those skilled in the art, and can be found, for example, in the book of X. Sunday, A guide to the surfactants world , Edicions Proa, Barcelona, 1995.

In the compositions of the invention are especially preferred are alkyl polyglycosides, especially the cetearyl glycoside and in particular a combination thereof with cetearyl alcohol (for example the product MONTANOV® 68, from the Seppic company, or Emulgade® PL 68/50 product); or glycoside of myristyl, preferably in combination with myristic alcohol (for example product MONTANOV® 14 from Seppic).

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Lipid compounds and emollients

The compositions of the invention may additionally contain various lipid compounds and emollients additional that contribute to optimize their properties organoleptic and dermatological.

The total amount of lipid compounds and emollients additionally present in the composition of the invention is comprised between 1 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 25% by weight and especially between 5 and 15% by weight.

How lipid compounds enter Consideration Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 at 18 carbon atoms, preferably with 8 to 10 carbon atoms (for example the product Eutanol® G of the Cognis company), esters of linear fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms with alcohols linear with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, acid esters branched carboxylics with 6 to 13 carbon atoms with alcohols linear with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, for example myristate of myristyl, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, stearate of Behenyl, Behenyl Isoestearate, Behenyl Oleate, Behenate of behenyl, behenyl erucate or erucilo myristate.

In addition, fatty acid esters are appropriate linear with 6 to 22 carbon atoms with branched alcohols, in special 2-ethylhexanol (for example the product Cetiol® 868 from Cognis); acid esters alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids of 18 to 38 carbon atoms with alcohols fatty with 6 to 22 linear or branched carbon atoms, in special dioctyl malate; esters of linear fatty acids and / or branched with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols; triglycerides based on fatty acids with 6 to 10 carbon atoms (for example the product Mirytol 318® from the Cognis company); liquid mixtures of mono / di / triglycerides based on fatty acids with 6 to 18 carbon atoms; esters of fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 Carbon atoms and / or alcohols of Guerbet with carboxylic acids aromatic, especially benzoic acid; acid esters dicarboxylic with 2 to 12 carbon atoms with linear alcohols or branched with 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups; vegetable oils; branched primary alcohols; substituted cyclohexanes; carbonates of fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 linear carbon atoms and branched, for example dicaprilyl carbonates (for example the Cetiol® CC product from Cognis); linear dialkyl ethers or branched, symmetric or asymmetric, with 6 to 22 atoms of carbon per alkyl group, for example dicaprilyl ethers (for example Cetiol® OE product from Cognis); hydrocarbons aliphatic or naphthenic, for example squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes, and mixtures thereof.

For the compositions of the invention are Especially preferred are Eutanol® G products (Guerbet alcohol: octyldodecanol), Cetiol® 868 (stearate 2-ethylhexanol), Cetiol® CC (carbonate dicaprilyl) and Mirytol 318® (caprylic and capric triglycerides) of the Cognis company, and combinations thereof.

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Consistency factors and thickening agents

In the compositions of the invention are used consistency factors and thickeners to adjust viscosity and their rheological behavior.

Among the consistency factors enter consideration, first, of fatty alcohols with a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 16 to 18 atoms of carbon, and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or acids hydroxylated fatty Appropriate thickening agents are, by way of for example, hydrophilic silicic anhydride (for example the products Aerosil® from the Evonik company); polysaccharides, especially rubber xanthan, guar gum, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, in addition to polyethylene glycolmono- and diesters of molecular weight fatty acids highest; polyacrylates (for example Carbopol® and types of Pemulen® from Goodrich; Synthalene® from the Sigma company, Keltrol® types from the Kelgo company; Sepigel® types and Simulgel® from the Seppic company; company Saleare® types Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.

To give consistency to the compositions of the invention are especially suitable cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, the Simulgel® EG product from Seppic (mixture of isohexadecane, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide, and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and sodium acryloyl dimethyl restaurant), Simulgel® NS from Seppic (Squalane mixture, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide, and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and sodium acrylo dimethyl restaurant) and mixtures thereof.

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Hydrotropes

To improve the fluidity of the compositions of the invention can also be used hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols. The polyols that enter consideration in this case preferably they have 2 to 15 atoms of carbon and at least two hydroxyl groups. Polyols can also contain other functional groups, especially amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. They are typical examples glycerin; alkylene glycols, for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol as well as polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 dalton; technical mixtures of oligoglycerins with a degree of own condensation of 1.5 to 10, for example technical mixtures of diglycerins with a diglycerin content of 40 to 50% in weight; methylol compounds, especially trimethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythrite and dipentaerythrite; alkyl glucosides with a chain of 1 to 8 atoms of carbon in the alkyl moiety; saccharic alcohols with 5 to 12 atoms carbon, for example sorbitol or mannitol; sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose; amino sugars, for example glucamine; dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

Preferably, in the compositions of the invention as a hydrotrope glycerin, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

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Preservative agents

Among the appropriate preservative agents for be used in the compositions of the invention are, to example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and mixtures thereof), 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol  (chlorphenesin), pentanediol or sorbic acid, and kinds of additional substances indicated in Annex VI of the Directive of Cosmetics 76/768 / EEC.

Preferably, as preservatives are used parabens, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol or mixtures thereof, especially phenoxyethanol, for example the company's COBIOSTAT® 200 product Cobiosa

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Preparation Procedure

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are they can prepare following conventional procedures in the cosmetic industry for the preparation of lotions, milks, creams, and sprayable emulsions. The preparation of emulsions is described. for example in the Remington: The Science and Practice of manual Pharmacy, 20th edition, Lippincott Williams & Wilkins, Philadelphia, 2000 [ISBN: 0-683-306472].

A procedure to prepare a composition of the invention may be, for example, the following.

In a reactor equipped with stirring equipment, lipophilic components and emulsifiers are weighed and melted at a temperature between 65 ° C and 85 ° C. In another vessel, hydrophilic components such as water, glycerin, panthenol and preservatives are weighed and heated at a temperature between 65 ° C and 85 ° C. Next, an emulsion is prepared from the lipophilic mass and hydrophilic components with appropriate agitation. Finally, the emulsion obtained is cooled to a temperature between 30 ° C and 45 ° C and the solution of Croton lechleri resin and other cosmetic components that may be temperature sensitive is added under stirring.

The cosmetic composition obtained generally has a viscosity between 100 and 100,000 cps. The pH of the composition can be adjusted with citric acid, hydrochloric acid or sodium hydroxide. Low viscosity compositions (lotions, PIT emulsions, microemulsions) can also be applied by spraying. Especially preferred is a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of the invention, which comprises Croton lechleri resin and panthenol, and, as additional active cosmetic ingredients, rosehip oil, shea butter and aloe vera gel. Also particularly preferred is a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of the invention, which comprises Croton lechleri resin and panthenol, and, as additional active cosmetic ingredients, Centella asiatica extract, sweet almond oil, Rosehip oil, butter Shea, α-tocopherol acetate, glycyrrhetic acid and aloe vera gel.

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Utilization

It is also part of the object of the invention the use of the combination of the invention to prepare a cosmetic composition to reduce the effects of aggressions to the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the combination of the invention is used to reduce the effects of laser radiation on the skin. The use of the cosmetic composition of the invention to reduce the effects of Aggressions to the skin.

In the context of the present invention, by "skin attacks" means damage caused by environmental conditions, for example by exposure to ultraviolet radiation from sunrays, wind, moisture, environmental pollution or cold; aging for example dehydration and oxidation; and laser radiation, for example the dermatological application of laser radiation to eliminate the hair.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of The invention is used to reduce the effects of radiation laser on the skin

An in vivo test was performed on the legs of individuals who underwent a medical laser photodepilation. After said hair removal process, on one of the legs a body moisturizer with aloe vera was applied and on the other leg the cosmetic composition of the invention was applied, comprising the resin of Croton lechleri and panthenol and, as additional active cosmetic ingredients, Rosehip oil, shea butter and aloe vera gel. When analyzing the results, a greater and faster decrease in erythema was found in the leg in which the composition of the invention was applied, compared to which the body moisturizer with aloe vera was applied. It was also found that in 90% of cases the decrease in pruritus and burning caused by photodepilation was initiated earlier and was faster in the leg in which the composition of the invention was applied, compared to which the body moisturizer with aloe vera, although the total disappearance of these symptoms was similar in both legs. Therefore, the cosmetic composition of the invention constitutes an effective and safe response to the physical aggression produced by the laser on the skin, since among the effects it produces, the
following:

-

reduce inflammation and irritations,

-

decreases the appearance of superinfections and hyperpigmentation post-inflammatory,

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accelerates the reepithelialization process and skin normalization, and

-

provides a calming effect and long lasting.

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It is also the object of the invention a procedure to reduce the effects of skin aggressions, which comprises applying a cosmetic amount on the skin Effective of a composition of the invention. The application on the skin is a topical application, so that the composition is released locally in the area of the skin affected by the aggression. A cosmetically effective amount is that amount of composition of the invention that allows treating the entire area affected.

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Antioxidant Activity Tests

The combination of the invention was subjected to an in vitro assay to determine the antioxidant activity thereof. To measure the antioxidant capacity of a compound, physicochemical methods can be used that assess the ability of a compound to sequester free radicals, also known as free radical scavenging activity. In these trials, the assessed activity is independent of any enzymatic activity, as described in the article by Fauconneau et al., Comparative study of radical scavenger and antioxidant properties of phenolic compounds from Vitis vinifera cell cultures using in vitro tests , Life Sci ., 1997, 61, 2103-2110. Within this group of methods, one of the most frequent tests is the one that uses 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), as described in the article by Brand-Williams et al., Use of a Free Radical Method to Evaluate Antioxidant Activity , Lebensm. Wiss Tecnol., 1995, 28, 25-30. The DPPH- radical is a stable radical at room temperature, which is reduced in the presence of antioxidant compounds. The use of this radical is an easy and fast method to evaluate antioxidant substances.

Using this method, the antioxidant activity of the combination of the invention was compared with the activity of each component separately. The combination tested contained a panthenol: Croton lechleri resin ratio of 40: 1 expressed by weight: weight.

Table 1 shows the concentrations EC 50, which refer to the effective concentration of the compound necessary to capture 50% of the total amount of radicals in the DPPH, so the lower the concentration, the higher the product effectiveness:

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TABLE 1

one

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From all the experimental data, checked with the Statgraphics® statistics program that Differences between the three groups were significant at 99%.

Surprisingly, it has been observed that the combination of panthenol and Croton lechleri resin of the invention exhibits synergistic antiradical activity, since the EC50 concentration of the combination is lower than the concentration for each of the components separately, and considerably less than the corresponding value, taking into account that the combination includes 97.6% panthenol and 2.4% Croton lechleri resin.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention, but do not limit it in any way.

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Examples Example 1 Preparation of a cream-shaped body emulsion containing the combination of Croton lechleri resin and panthenol of the invention

The components of the lipophilic phase were prepared in a stainless steel reactor equipped with a stirrer. For this, 4 kg of Montanov® 68 (mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glycoside) were introduced therein,
4 kg of Cetiol® CC (dicaprilyl carbonate), 3 kg of Mirytol® 318 (caprylic-capric triglyceride), 0.5 kg of Rosehip oil, 3 kg of Cetiol® 868 (2-ethylhexyl stearate), 2 kg of shea butter and 0.5 kg of Simulgel® EG (mixture of isohexadecane, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide and copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyl dimethyl restaurant), and the mass was heated to 80 ± 2 ° C under stirring.

The components of the hydrophilic phase were prepared in another stainless steel reactor equipped with a stirrer. For this, 50 kg of demineralized water, 3 kg of 99.5% glycerin, 2 kg of panthenol, and 2.5 kg of Cobiostab® 200 (phenoxyethanol) were introduced, and the mass was heated to 80 \ pm 2 ° C under stirring. At this temperature the hydrophilic phase was incorporated on the lipophilic phase under stirring until an emulsion was achieved. Then, a cooling process was started at 35 ± 2 ° C. Once this temperature was reached, 3 kg of a Croton lechleri resin hydroglycolic solution with a resin content of 1.68% by weight, 3 kg of aloe vera gel (10: 1) were added, and the mass was maintained under stirring until a homogeneous product is achieved. Finally it was completed with water to obtain 100 kg of body emulsion in the form of cream. The pH was adjusted to a value between 5 and 6. The final product had a viscosity between 12,000 and 20,000 cps.

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Example 2 Preparation of a cream-shaped body emulsion with the combination of Croton lechleri resin and panthenol of the invention and Centella asiatica extract

The components of the hydrophilic phase were prepared in a stainless steel reactor equipped with a stirrer. For this, 50 kg of demineralized water, 2 kg of 99.5% glycerin, 3 kg of hydroalcoholic extract of Centella asiatica , 2 kg of panthenol and 2.5 kg of Cobiostab® 200 (phenoxyethanol) were introduced into it. and the dough was heated to 75 ± 2 ° C under stirring. On the hydrophilic phase, 1 kg of Simulgel® NS (mixture of squalane, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and sodium acrylo dimethyl restaurant) was added, stirred at high speed until obtaining a homogeneous gel and kept at 75 ± 2 ° C under stirring.

The components of the lipophilic phase were prepared in another stainless steel reactor equipped with a stirrer. For this, 4 kg of Montanov® 68 (mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glycoside), 2 kg of Montanov® 14 (mixture of myristic alcohol and myristyl glycoside), 6 kg of sweet almond oil, 0 , 5 kg of Rosehip oil, 4 kg of Eutanol® G (octyldodecanol), 8 kg of Cetiol® 868 (2-ethylhexyl stearate), 2 kg of Shea butter, 0.2 kg of tocopherol acetate, and The dough was heated to 75 ± 2 ° C under stirring. Next, the lipophilic phase was incorporated into the reactor containing the other components and stirred until an emulsion was achieved. Under stirring, 0.5 kg of Plantactiv® GLA 18 (glycyrrhetic acid) was then added, and cooling to 40 ± 2 ° C began. Once this temperature was reached, 3 kg of Croton lechleri resin hydroglycolic solution with a resin content of 1.68% by weight, 3 kg of aloe vera gel (10: 1) were added, and the mass was stirred until homogenization Finally it was completed with water to obtain 100 kg of body emulsion in the form of cream. The pH was adjusted to a value between 5 and 6. The final product had a viscosity between 20,000 and 70,000 cps.

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Example 3 Antioxidant Activity Test

The antioxidant activity was determined by the in vitro assay described in the article by Brand-Williams et al., Use of a Free Radical Method to Evaluate Antioxidant Activity , Lebensm. Wiss Tecnol., 1995, 28, 25-30. In this method, the extract or substance to be titrated reacts with 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) in an ethanolic solution. DPPH is a relatively stable organic free radical that, in an atom of the nitrogen bridge, shows an unpaired valence electron. It is reduced in the presence of antioxidant compounds, and this reduction is monitored by the decrease in absorbance of this radical.

In this test the concentration is determined initial DPPH and the resulting concentration once it has been added the possible antioxidant, so that a decrease in radiation absorption translates into a decrease in DPPH concentration due to electron transfer. The test results are expressed as EC50 concentration, which is the concentration of the active ingredient necessary to bleach 50% DPPH, that is, to capture 50% of the total amount of DPPH radicals. In this way, the smaller the value of the EC50 concentration, the lower the effective concentration necessary to capture 50% of the DPPH, and therefore greater ability to remove radicals from the component tested. When the EC50 concentration is high means that the concentration effective that compound is needed to act as antioxidant is higher.

The samples that were tested were the following:

to)

Combination of the invention formed by Croton lechleri resin dissolved in a hydro-glycol solution and panthenol in a 1:40 weight ratio

b)

Panthenol

C)

Croton lechleri resin dissolved in a hydro-glycol solution.

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Vitamin E was used as a positive control ((±) -? -tocopherol, 1,1 units / mg) and vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, ≥ 99.0%)

A DPPH solution (Sigma was prepared Chemical) 0.1 mM in ethanol. From this solution, prepared five solutions at concentrations 0.02 mM, 0.04 mM, 0.06 mM, 0.08 mM and 0.1 mM. The absorbance of these was measured solutions at a wavelength of 515 nm to obtain the line of calibration. The DPPH solution in ethanol was taken as the blank of these samples.

Then, solutions were prepared Concentrates of the samples to be examined, with a concentration Approximately 10 g / l. 0.05 ml of said solutions were taken concentrated and 2 ml of the DPPH 0.1 solution was added mM. In case the decrease in absorption is very rapid, it You can make an appropriate solution of the extract. Dissolution DPPH ethanol was used as the target of these samples. After one 30 minute incubation at 37 ° C, the reduction of the DPPH radical in a spectrophotometer from the decrease in the absorbance of said radical at 515 nm. The percentage of DPPH discoloration was calculated according to the following expression:

2

where:

Am =

Absorbance of the sample.

Abm =

Absorbance of the sample blank.

Ab_ {DPPH} =

Asorbance of the white of the ethanolic solution of DPPH

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To calculate EC 50 or the concentration of extract necessary to bleach DPPH by 50%, were taken four measurements of each of the extract concentrations and it was ensured that the variability between them did not exceed 10%. In the Table 2 shows the EC50 concentrations, expressed in µg / ml, determined for the combination of the invention and for Cosmetic ingredients separately.

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TABLE 2

3

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It can be seen that the combination of the invention has an important free radical scavenging activity at an EC50 concentration of 4.87 µg / ml, comparable to that of Vitamin C. This concentration is lower than the EC_ concentration. 50} of Croton lechleri resin alone (6.85 µg / ml) and that of panthenol alone (18.25 µg / ml). The differences between these three components are statistically significant at 99%.

Taking into account that the combination of the invention tested contains a panthenol: resin ratio of 40: 1, which is 97.6% by weight of panthenol and 2.4% by weight of Croton lechleri resin, the expected value of The EC50 concentration for said combination was 17.97 µg / ml (18.25 x 0.996 + 6.85 x 0.024).

A synergistic effect regarding the antioxidant activity is thus observed when combining Croton lechleri resin with panthenol.

Claims (19)

1. Combination of cosmetic active ingredients, characterized in that it comprises:

to)

Croton lechleri resin and

b)

panthenol

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2. Combination according to claim 1, characterized in that the ratio between Croton lechleri resin and panthenol is between 1: 500 and 1: 2, expressed in weight: weight. 3. A combination according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the panthenol is selected from D-panthenol and a racemic mixture of D-panthenol and L-panthenol. 4. Combination according to claim 3, characterized in that the panthenol is D-panthenol. 5. Cosmetic composition comprising the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and a Cosmetically acceptable vehicle. 6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it contains:

-

between 1% and 20% by weight of the combination according to any of the claims 1 to 4, and

-

between 80% and 99% by weight of a vehicle cosmetically acceptable,

adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

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7. Composition according to any of claims 5 or 6, characterized in that the vehicle is water. 8. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional cosmetic ingredient. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it contains:

-

between 1% and 10% by weight of the combination according to any of the claims 1 to 4,

-

between 5% and 50% by weight of at least one cosmetic ingredient additional, and

-

between 40% and 94% by vehicle weight,

adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

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10. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 9, characterized in that the additional cosmetic ingredient is selected from the group consisting of surfactants and emulsifiers, lipid compounds and emollients, consistency factors and thickeners, hydrotropes, preservatives and mixtures of the same. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water type (O / W). 12. Composition according to any of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that it includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from the group consisting of: Centella asiatica extract, Aloe vera gel, Rosehip oil, sweet almond oil, butter of shea, glycyrrhetic acid, vitamin E and its derivatives and mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that as additional active cosmetic ingredients includes rosehip oil, shea butter and aloe vera gel. 14. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that as additional active cosmetic ingredients includes Centella asiatica extract, sweet almond oil, rosehip oil, shea butter, α-tocopherol acetate, glycyrrhetic acid and aloe vera gel. 15. Use of the combination according any one of claims 1 to 4 to prepare a cosmetic composition to reduce the effects of aggressions to the skin. 16. Use according to claim 15, characterized in that the aggressions to the skin are damages caused by environmental conditions, aging and laser radiation. 17. Use according to claim 16, characterized in that the aggressions to the skin are produced by laser radiation. 18. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any of claims 5 to 14 to reduce the effects of aggressions to the skin. 19. Method for reducing the effects of aggressions on the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of a composition on the skin according to any of claims 5 to 14.