CN101612104A - 含有聚硅氧烷乳液的毛发调理剂 - Google Patents
含有聚硅氧烷乳液的毛发调理剂 Download PDFInfo
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- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
- -1 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 title claims description 27
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 45
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 18
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- 235000010417 guar gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 15
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
- A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种预定在使用之后冲洗的化妆用毛发处理制剂,其含有含量为0.4至0.7重量%、存在于粒度为10至50微米的高分子聚硅氧烷乳液中的阳离子聚合物。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种预定在使用之后冲洗的化妆用毛发处理制剂,其包括含量为0.4至0.7重量%、存在于粒度为10至50微米的高分子聚硅氧烷乳液中的阳离子聚合物。
背景技术
毛发调理剂是在清洗毛发之后用于进行护理的。重要的因素是调理剂施加到毛发上时的感官特性(Sensorik)。消费者认为内容丰富的(reichhaltig)毛发调理剂应具有非常好的护理作用。很多毛发调理剂虽然在护理特性上显示出好的功效,但是感官特性差,特别是对湿发来说。
“感官特性”在本文中的意义包括将产品从包装中取出时,正常应用条件下(轻柔按摩进毛发,产品在毛发中停留,冲洗)所有可感觉到的和对使用者来说关系重大的产品特性,以及在应用期间和之后毛发、头皮和手指可感觉到的改变。“感官特性”特别包括“内容丰富的”、“滑动性能(Gleitvermoegen)”、可理清性(Entwirrbarkeit)”、“可梳理性”、“毛发质地(Haarstruktur)”、“柔软有弹性”的特性。
“内容丰富的”在本文中的意义如下确定:测量在发缕和手指之间多大程度上可以觉察到作为层/膜的产品。在此使用10个等级,其中10表示可能得到的最高含量。
“滑动性能”在本文中的意义是手指以中等的/始终不变的压力在发缕上从上到下的滑动。在此使用10个等级,其中10表示可能得到的最大滑动性能。
“可理清性”在本文中的意义是在产品冲洗过后用梳子是否可以轻易理清毛发的量度。当梳子可以一次性从上到下地完全通过发缕,则毛发被理清。在此使用10个等级,其中10表示可能得到的最大可理清性。
“可梳理性”在本文中的意义是在理清毛发之后,用梳子是否可以轻易梳通毛发的量度。在此使用10个等级,其中10表示可能得到的最大可梳理性。
“毛发质地”在本文中的意义是通过在手的拇指和食指/中指之间水平缠绕毛发来对毛发进行评价。在发缕的不同位置从上到下开始检验。在此使用10个等级,其中10表示可能得到的最好的毛发质地。
“柔软有弹性”在本文中的意义是专家小组对在湿发和干发上涂敷产品之后的感官感觉。
聚硅氧烷乳液是包含分散在水中或者在水中乳化的硅油的制剂。所述硅油例如是聚二甲基硅氧烷。其通常通过表面活性物质来分散或乳化。适合的乳化剂是椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、C12-C15链烷醇聚醚-3或瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵。液滴尺寸在几个微米范围内,特别是在15至30微米范围内移动。
阳离子聚合物是在主链和/或侧链上具有可以“暂时”或“永久”是阳离子的基团的大分子物质。
适合的阳离子聚合物例如是季铵化的纤维素衍生物,例如可以以Celquat和Polymer JR的名称商业获得的季铵化纤维素衍生物。化合物Celquat H 100、Celquat L 200和Polymer JR 400是优选的季铵化的纤维素衍生物;根据DE 4413686的阳离子烷基聚糖苷;阳离子化的蜂蜜,例如商品Honeyquat 50;阳离子瓜尔胶衍生物,例如特别是商品名为Cosmedia Guar和Jaguar销售的(Jaguarvertriebenen)产品;聚合的二甲基二烯丙基铵盐及其与丙烯酸和甲基丙烯酸的酯和酰胺的共聚物。商业上可得到的名为Merquat 100(聚(二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵))和Merquat550(二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵-丙烯酰胺共聚物)的产品是所述阳离子聚合物的实例,乙烯吡咯烷酮与二烷基氨基烷基丙烯酸酯和二烷基氨基烷基甲基丙烯酸酯季铵化衍生物的共聚物,例如与硫酸二乙酯季铵化乙烯吡咯烷酮-二甲基氨基乙基甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物。所述化合物可以以Gafquat 734和Gafquat 755的名称商业获得;乙烯吡咯烷酮-乙烯咪唑甲氯化鎓共聚物,例如以Luviquat FC 370、FC 550、FC 905和HM 552的名称提供的那些;季铵化聚乙烯醇,以及已知名称为聚季铵盐-2、聚季铵盐-17、聚季铵盐-18和聚季铵盐-27的聚合物主链上具有四价氮原子的聚合物;以聚季铵盐-24(市售产品例如Quatrisoft LM 200)的名称已知的聚合物;乙烯吡咯烷酮的共聚物,例如作为市售产品可得到的Copolymer 845(制造商:ISP)、Gaffix VC 713(制造商:ISP)、Gafquat ASCP 1011、GafquatHS 110、Luviquat8155和Luviquat MS 370。
EP1552807公开了一种具有阳离子化的瓜尔胶和某种二烷基铵盐的毛发调理制剂。
DE102005028763公开了一种具有季铵化脂肪酸酰胺基胺和阳离子聚合物的毛发处理剂。
WO99/34768公开了一种具有某种中和的脂肪酸酰胺基胺和某种聚硅氧烷的毛发调理制剂。
从消费者的角度出发,毛发调理剂应该是内容丰富的和奶油状的,护理毛发,使毛发在湿的和干燥的状态下柔软、有弹性、可易于梳理、有光泽并且所述调理剂必须快速起效。
如现有技术中所述,例如阳离子瓜尔胶的阳离子聚合物可以添加在包含阳离子表面活性剂和脂肪醇的毛发护理配方中,从而改善调理用特性,然而在湿的状态下在感官特性方面有缺点;所述调理剂在毛发上觉得是水状的。通过应用包含高分子聚二甲基硅氧烷和例如瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵的阳离子聚合物的聚硅氧烷乳液,期待阳离子护理聚合物的调理功效得到改善,而不恶化调理剂的内容丰富的感官特性。这由专家小组的试验示出。另外,当阳离子聚合物存在于乳液中时,少量的聚硅氧烷产生极好的护理功效(与不含聚合物的乳液比较)。
发明内容
因此,令人惊奇地示出,一种预定在使用之后冲洗的化妆用毛发处理制剂弥补了现有技术的缺点,所述毛发处理制剂含有含量为0.4至0.7重量%的,存在于粒度为10至50微米的高分子聚硅氧烷乳液中的阳离子聚合物。在这种情况下有利的是,所述制剂额外包含0.1至1重量%的谷维素。另外有利的是,使用瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵作为所述阳离子聚合物。另外有利的是,所述阳离子聚合物瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵的平均负载密度为(Ladungsdichte)0.2至1meq/克。所述聚合物是Jaguar C-17(Rhodia Inc.)、Jaguar C-1000(Rhodia Inc.)、Jaguar C-13S(RhodiaInc.)、Jaguar C-14S(Rhodia Inc.)、Jaguar Excel(Rhodia Inc.)。另外有利的是,所述聚硅氧烷乳液的粘度为6000至12000mPas(Brookfield,Spindel 6,50RPM)。典型的聚硅氧烷乳液的pH为5.0至7.0,粒度为15.0至30.0μm,苯氧基乙醇的含量为0.85%至0.95%,密度为0.9750至0.9900kg/l,聚硅氧烷粘度为500.00cst且包含C12-15链烷醇聚醚-3作为乳化剂。另外有利的是,所述制剂不含纤维素衍生物。另外有利的是,所述制剂不是清洗有效的。另外有利的是,所述制剂不含阴离子表面活性剂。另外有利的是,所述制剂除了阳离子聚合物之外不含其它聚合物。另外有利的是,所述制剂包含两性表面活性剂,优选甜菜碱,特别优选椰油基甜菜碱。所述两性表面活性剂的浓度有利的是0.25重量%至1重量%有效含量。
根据本发明的制剂可以额外包含UV过滤剂、多元醇、防腐剂、水解蛋白、植物提取物、香精油和抗氧化剂以及还可以包含两性表面活性剂。
特别优选的根据本发明的制剂的特征在于,其作为护理物质以其重量计包含0.0001至1重量%,优选0.001至0.5重量%和特别优选0.005至0.1重量%的至少一种泛醌和/或至少一种泛醌醇和/或至少一种这些物质的衍生物,其中优选的制剂包含辅酶Q10。
作为特别优选的泛醌的替代或者除其以外,根据本发明的制剂还可以包含叶绿醌。在这种情况下,优选的根据本发明的制剂的特征在于,其包含0.0002至4重量%,优选0.0005至3重量%,特别优选0.001至2重量%,进一步优选0.0015至1重量%和特别是0.002至0.5重量%的至少一种叶绿醌,特别优选的制剂包含叶绿醌PQ-9。
公知的是,特别是叔胺与脂肪醇鲸蜡醇和硬脂醇结合产生内容丰富的、奶油状的调理剂基底,例如在EP 0859587B1、EP617953B1、WO2002102334A2和EP1586298B1中描述的。表1中给出了包含酰胺基胺的调理剂配方。
具体实施方式
实施例和感官特性的确定
表1
原料的商品名:
1Nipagin M,Clariant,99.5%
2Nipasol M,Clariant,99.5%
5Nacol 16-95,Sasol,95%
6100366乳酸90,最纯的DAB,Merck,90%
8Lanette 18,Cognis,100%
9γ-谷维素,Biesterfeld,98%
10Jaguar Excel,Rhodia,88%
11Dehyton AB 30,Cognis,31%
12Tego Amid S18,Evonik Goldschmidt,100%
14DC 5-7139,65%聚二甲基硅氧烷(包含0.5%瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵)
15DC 5-7175,75%聚二甲基硅氧烷
制剂1包含聚硅氧烷乳液DC 5-7139(聚二甲基硅氧烷)。瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵在聚硅氧烷中的含量优选为0.4至0.6%(有效)。将瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵添加到实施例2+3的配方中。
聚硅氧烷乳液DC 5-7175不包含瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵。制剂1至3通过专家小组(n=5)来评价,表2。
表2
专家小组的方案:
*使用经过2小时漂白的2g发缕。
发缕浸湿至少15分钟。
用标准洗发剂洗手。
取出发缕并且用梳子粗的一段梳理,随后用梳子细的一段梳理。
在流动的水下将发缕弄湿并且轻压一次抹掉。
用注射器抽出0.4mL产品。将注射器中的物质施加到发缕上。
用来自分配器的水将手打湿。
产品60秒在给定的节奏(58bpm)下将产品从上到下涂抹均匀并且在20秒后评价下列参数:可分配性、含量、滑动能力和毛发质地。
使产品作用30秒并且冲洗50秒。
制剂1与制剂2和3相比,可更好地分配、内容更丰富,具有更高的滑动性能且产生更柔软的毛发质地,其中额外添加了阳离子聚合物。另外,在制剂2和3的情况下冲洗发缕时感官上有缺点,因为发缕开始产生尖锐的声音,而消费者在调理剂应用后通常将此描述为不利的。
毛发调理剂的其它配方:
表3
制剂4和5得到了更好的可梳理性和护理功效。与制剂6相比。
制剂4和5包含3.0%含有瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵的聚硅氧烷乳液。制剂6包含3.3%无瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵的聚硅氧烷乳液。尽管制剂6中存在较高量的硅油,但该调理剂配方具有较差的护理特性。
毛发调理剂的其它配方:
7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | ||
1 | 羟苯甲酯 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 | 0.25 |
2 | 对羟基苯甲酸丙酯 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 | 0.10 |
3 | 水 | 加至100 | 加至100 | 加至100 | 加至100 | 加至100 | 加至100 | 加至100 |
4 | 鲸蜡醇 | 2.50 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 |
5 | 柠檬酸 | 0.0050 | ||||||
6 | 乳酸 | 0.80 | 0.80 | 0.80 | 0.80 | 0.80 | 0.80 | |
7 | 氯化钠 | 0.01 | 0.01 | 0.01 | 0.01 | 0.01 | 0.01 | |
8 | 硬脂醇 | 4.80 | 3.80 | 3.80 | 3.80 | 4.00 | 4.00 | 3.80 |
9 | 谷维素 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 | |
10 | 甘油 | 5.00 |
11 | 棕榈酰胺丙基三甲基氯化铵 | 0.42 | 3.32 | |||||
12 | 二硬脂酰乙基羟乙基甲基硫酸甲酯铵 | 2.86 | ||||||
13 | 硬脂酰胺丙基二甲基胺 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.00 | 2.20 | 2.00 | |
14 | 山萮基三甲基硫酸甲酯铵 | 0.50 | ||||||
15 | 山萮基三甲基氯化铵 | 1.00 | 1.00 | |||||
16 | 西曲氯铵 | 2.00 | ||||||
17 | 聚二甲基硅氧烷+椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱+瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵+C12-15链烷醇聚醚-3 | 4.60 | 3.60 | 4.60 | 4.60 | 3.70 | 4.60 | 4.60 |
18 | 香料 | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 | 0.70 |
pH(90d) | 4.20 | 4.10 | 4.25 | 4.55 | 4.55 | 4.20 | 4.55 | |
粘度(90d) | 7900/5400 | 7100/4900 | 7500/5100 | 8100/5550 | 6500/4100 | 5100/3500 | 8100/5550 |
表4
原料的商品名:
1Nipagin M,Clariant,99.5%
2Nipasol M,Clariant,99.5%
4Nacol 16-95,Sasol,95%
8Lanette 18,Cognis,100%
9γ-谷维素,Biesterfeld,98%
11Varisoft PATC,Evonik Goldschmidt,60%
12Dehyquart F75,Cognis,69.935%
14Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50,Croda,55%
15Incroquat Behenyl TMC-25,Croda,25%
16CTAC 6025KC,KCl,25%
17DC 5-7139,65%聚二甲基硅氧烷
Claims (10)
1.一种预定在使用之后冲洗的化妆用毛发处理制剂,其含有含量为0.4至0.7重量%、存在于粒度为10至50微米的高分子聚硅氧烷乳液中的阳离子聚合物。
2.根据权利要求1的制剂,其特征在于,所述制剂额外包含0.1至1重量%的谷维素。
3.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,使用瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵作为所述阳离子聚合物。
4.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,平均负载密度为0.2至1meq/克的瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵作为阳离子聚合物存在。
5.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,所述聚硅氧烷乳液的粘度为6000至12000mPas(Brookfield,Spindel 6,50RPM)。
6.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,所述制剂不含纤维素衍生物。
7.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,所述制剂不是清洗有效的。
8.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,所述制剂不含阴离子表面活性剂。
9.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,所述制剂除了阳离子聚合物之外不含其它聚合物。
10.根据前述权利要求中任一项的制剂,其特征在于,所述制剂包含两性表面活性剂,优选甜菜碱,特别优选椰油基甜菜碱。
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CA2092284C (en) * | 1992-04-15 | 2003-02-11 | Wolfgang Bergmann | Conditioning shampoo composition and method of preparing and using the same |
US5328685A (en) | 1993-03-30 | 1994-07-12 | Helene Curtis, Inc. | Clear conditioning composition |
JPH0769844A (ja) * | 1993-09-03 | 1995-03-14 | Sasaki Kagaku Kk | シャンプーおよび/またはリンス |
GB9320556D0 (en) * | 1993-10-06 | 1993-11-24 | Unilever Plc | Hair conditioning composition |
DE4413686C2 (de) | 1994-04-20 | 1996-10-24 | Henkel Kgaa | Kationische Zuckertenside, Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung und deren Verwendung |
AU4580896A (en) | 1996-02-28 | 1997-09-04 | Procter & Gamble Company, The | Mild hair conditioning compositions |
GB9616411D0 (en) * | 1996-08-05 | 1996-09-25 | Unilever Plc | Shampoo compositions and method |
GB9800591D0 (en) | 1998-01-12 | 1998-03-11 | Unilever Plc | Hair conditioning composition |
EP0945120B1 (de) * | 1998-02-11 | 2003-11-26 | Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft | Mascara und Augenbrauenstifte enthaltend Gamma-Oryzanol und Calciumsalze |
WO2001008643A1 (en) * | 1999-07-02 | 2001-02-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Hair conditioning compositon comprising cationic silicone emulsion |
EP1269974A1 (en) | 2001-06-18 | 2003-01-02 | Unilever Plc | Hair styling compositions |
GB2398240A (en) * | 2003-04-30 | 2004-08-18 | Dow Corning Australia Pty Ltd | Conditioning shampoo with large particle size emulsion of silicone |
BRPI0415159B1 (pt) * | 2003-10-21 | 2015-01-13 | Unilever Nv | Composição para o condicionamento dos cabelos, método de tratamento dos cabelos e uso de composições. |
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EP1652555A1 (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-05-03 | Unilever Plc | Hair care compositions |
US20060127345A1 (en) * | 2004-12-10 | 2006-06-15 | Hilvert Jennifer E | Conditioning shampoo containing stabilized silicone particles |
DE102005014417A1 (de) * | 2005-03-24 | 2006-09-28 | Beiersdorf Ag | Oxidationsgeschützte kosmetische Zubereitung mit Reiskeimöl |
DE102005028763A1 (de) | 2005-06-22 | 2007-01-04 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Haarbehandlungsmittel |
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