CN101189122B - 由无纺织物制成的用于纺织工业的可固定衬料 - Google Patents

由无纺织物制成的用于纺织工业的可固定衬料 Download PDF

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CN101189122B
CN101189122B CN2006800195516A CN200680019551A CN101189122B CN 101189122 B CN101189122 B CN 101189122B CN 2006800195516 A CN2006800195516 A CN 2006800195516A CN 200680019551 A CN200680019551 A CN 200680019551A CN 101189122 B CN101189122 B CN 101189122B
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M·卡贝尔
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Carl Freudenberg KG
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种可固定的、由无纺织物组成的、用于纺织工业的衬料，所述衬料包括至少一个熔融仿制的纤维组成的层和至少另一个由纤维材料组成的层，所述可固定衬料至少在部分区域内设有粘附材料。这样来实现所述可固定衬料特别高的弹性，即所述熔融纺制的纤维由弹性纤维材料组成，而所述至少一个由纤维材料组成的层由短纤维组成，将所述至少一个由弹性的熔融纺制的纤维组成的层和所述至少一个由未粘合的短纤维组成层作为未加固的纤维平面构型物相互叠置铺放，接下来通过本身已知的加固步骤对其进行加固。

Description

由无纺织物制成的用于纺织工业的可固定衬料
技术领域
本发明涉及一种由无纺织物制成的用于纺织工业的可固定/可定型(fixierbar)衬料，所述可固定衬料包括至少一个由熔融纺制的纤维组成的层和至少另一个由纤维材料组成的层，其中所述可固定衬料至少在部分区域内设有粘附材料。
背景技术
衬料是衣物不可见的构架物(Gerüst)。衬料确保正确的合体和最佳的穿着舒适性。根据应用场合的不同，所述衬料有助于提高可加工性、提高功能性并使衣物(形状)稳定。除了衣物，上述功能还在工业纺织应用领域中，如家具、衬垫以及家用纺织物工业中得到应用。
衬料可以由无纺织物、织物、编织物或类似的纺织平面构型物组成，所述物料多数附加地设有粘附材料，由此(中间)衬里(Einlage)可以与面料多数通过加热和/或压力热地相互粘结(固定衬里)。根据制造方法的不同，所述各种纺织平面构型物具有不同的特性(Eigenschaftprofil)。织物由经向和纬向的丝线/纱线组成，编织物由丝线/纱线构成，所述丝线/纱线通过线圈组织(Maschenbindung)结合成一纺织平面构型物。无纺织物由热地、机械地或化学地结合的单纤维组成。用于制造纺织平面构型物的不同的方法长久以来就是已知的，并且不需要说明。
在衣物中采用的面料按同样长期以来就已知的方法制造。为了在面料和衬料之间实现尽可能均匀的结合，衬料的特性特征必须与面料的特性特征相匹配。重要的评判标准是面料/衬料复合物的手感、触觉，以及必要时还有衬料和面料之间的附着性。此时，其它要求在面料/衬料复合物的维护特性中得出，例如在洗涤或化学清洁时。在使用中的重要标准是在长的时间段内的可使用性或衬料在使用中的衣物中的特性。
在面料领域，存在很大数量的各种不同的材料，这些材料还不断补充以具有新特性的新材料。这里流行的趋势是这样的面料，这种面料在穿着时能够可逆地与身体相匹配，由此形成衣物舒适的穿着感觉。这种自调整(eigengesetzt)的面料具有单向、双向或多向的弹性特性，可以拉伸这种面料，但也可以放松面料使其重新回到初始状态。即，这种面料能够灵活地跟随身体的运动，由此同时在穿着衣物时还使人获得更为柔软舒适的感觉。面料的弹性特性能够在衣物中完全发挥作用的前提条件是，衬料能够跟随所述拉伸和放松运动。不可拉伸的借助于粘附材料固定在面料上的衬料会妨碍面料的拉伸和放松。在由包含织物、编织物、针织物、拉舍尔材料(Raschelmaterial)或其它含纱线的平面构型物组成的衬料中，必要的弹性通常通过专门的卷曲变形和/或通过专门的对纺织物常见的处理方法，如膨胀/膨松化(Bauschen)，收缩(Schrumpfen)等来实现。由此在纺织平面构型物中实现纱线人工的缩短，所述缩短可重新被拉出，但这种缩短较为强烈，以致可以弹性回缩。
定义成加固的单纤维构型物的、其单纤维利用摩擦和/或粘附或粘合结合的无纺织物通常不具有上述特性。在形成本专利申请的同类现有技术的日本公开文献JP 2-503903A中，说明了一种由无纺织物制成的衬料，所述衬料通过层压法制造。所述已知的衬料由多个由纤维交织(faserverflochten)的无纺织物和纤维带制成的层组成，所述层相互层压。这里，至少一个层由一种由超细纤维制成的熔喷无纺织物组成。所述层压的无纺织物按本身已知的方式至少局部设有粘附材料以进行固定。
发明内容
本发明的目的是，这样改进开头所述类型的可固定衬料，即，使所述衬料具有对于衣物部分或纺织物的应用足够的弹性。
根据本发明在一种所述类型的可固定衬料中这样来实现所述目的，即，所述熔融纺制的纤维由弹性纤维材料组成，而所述至少一个由纤维材料组成的层由短纤维组成，将至少一个由弹性的熔融纺制的纤维组成的层和至少一个由短纤维组成层作为未加固的纤维平面构型物相互叠置铺放，接下来通过本身已知的加固步骤对其进行加固。
优选地，所述纤维材料的主要部分由短纤维组成，所述短纤维由化学纤维和/或天然纤维组成。
优选地，所述化学纤维具有＞165℃的熔点。
优选地，所述化学纤维包括由聚酯和/或聚酰胺组成的单组分和/或多组分纤维或所述组分的纤维混合物。
优选地，所述弹性纤维包括熔点＞165℃的弹性聚合物。
优选地，所述弹性纤维包括熔点＞170℃的弹性聚合物。
优选地，所述弹性聚合物具有＜98的肖氏柔软度。
优选地，所述弹性聚合物包括热塑性聚氨酯类的化合物和/或基于聚酯-嵌段-共聚酰胺和/或弹性共聚酯的化合物。
优选地，所述基于弹性共聚酯的化合物是基于共聚醚酯的化合物。
优选地，热塑性聚氨酯具有脂族或芳族结构。
优选地，热塑性聚氨酯是基于聚酯、聚醚或聚己酸内酯的。
优选地，所述短纤维具有＜2.5dtex的纤维纤度。
优选地，未加固的由短纤维组成的纤维平面构型物具有在1-100g/m2范围内的单位面积重量。
优选地，未加固的、由熔融纺制的弹性纤维组成的纤维平面构型物具有在5-200g/m2范围内的单位面积重量。
已经出人意料地证明，在与由弹性的熔融纺制的纤维组成的弹性纤维平面构型物相结合使用由短纤维组成的未结合纤维平面构型时，以及在接下来的对所述复合物的加固中，可以获得极大的弹性，这种弹性在制造由一已结合的短纤维无纺织物和一可拉伸的无纺织物组成的层压物时是无法实现的。
根据本发明的衬料的优点是材料纵向和横向上的弹性，通过无纺织物的铺放形式、短纤维的组成、弹性聚合物的种类以及熔融纺制和加固条件，可以在较宽的范围内调整所述弹性。通过采用短纤维可以掩盖通常常见的弹性聚合物的类似于“橡胶弹性体”的手感并使其变得感觉舒适。
因此，根据本发明在熔融纺制工艺中将一种弹性材料纺制成纤维，并将所述纤维铺放成弹性纤维平面构型物。在另一个方法步骤中，在这种弹性纤维弹性构型物上至少在两个表面中的一个上铺放一未结合的由短纤维组成的纤维平面构型物。此时机械地(针刺，喷水加固)、化学地(粘合剂结合)或优选热地，例如在辊之间进行轧光，将所述至少两层的、由熔融纺制纤维和短纤维组成的纤维平面构型物加固成无纺织物。在制造已知类型的可固定衬料时，不仅对必须每个单个的层进行自己的加固过程，最终还必须在由所述层构成的复合物上进行附加的层压过程，而在制造根据本发明的衬料时只要求进行唯一一个加固步骤。因此，与已知类型的无纺织物相比，本发明的无纺织物可以更为简单和经济地制造。
在接下来的用粘附材料进行涂覆的过程之后，按对于衬料常见的技术，例如膏状物点(Pastenpunkt)、膏粉点(Pasten-Pulverpunkt)，热熔涂覆、散布涂覆等，至少在复合物表面的部分区域内出人意料地得到高弹性可固定的、具有舒适手感的产品。
用于熔融纺制纤维的材料优选包括熔点高于165℃、但特别优选地高于170℃的弹性聚合物，由此，纺织物可承受熨烫过程而不损坏。特别合适的聚合物通常具有＜98的肖氏柔软度A(硬度)，但根据对弹性的要求不同也可以使用较硬的聚合物。
弹性聚合物特别是理解为由例如具有脂族或芳族结构的热塑性聚氨酯类的化合物，所述化合物优选例如是基于聚酯、聚醚、聚己酸内酯的。其它合适的弹性聚合物例如是基于例如聚醚-嵌段-共聚酰胺或弹性共聚酯例如共聚醚酯的化合物。
在处理后，这种类型的层压结构非常易于例如通过熨烫平整，从而例如在缝合部位形成视觉上美观的结构。使用具有较低玻璃化点的弹性聚合物有利于这种效果。
原则上，对于所述至少两层的纤维平面构型物合适的短纤维包括所有可不发生熔化地承受熨烫过程的纤维类型。所使用的短纤维可以包括化学纤维和/或天然纤维，如在衬料中常用的纤维。对于化学纤维，优选具有＞165℃的熔点的热稳定纤维，例如聚酯纤维、聚酰胺纤维或其混合物。由不同的聚合物组分组成的纤维也适于用作化学纤维。
优选＜2.5dtex的纤度范围，但对于特殊的应用场合也可以设想采用2.5至20dtex的较粗大的纤维纤度或由具有0.8至30dtex的纤维的混合物。
所述弹性的、熔融纺制的、纤维平面构型的(单位面积)重量优选可在5和100g/m2之间变化。未加固的短纤维网可具有5-200g/m2的单位面积重量。下面借助于实施例在不对一般性进行限制的情况下对本发明进行详细说明。
具体实施方式
在下面的实施例中，为了比较根据本发明的和已知类型的产品，按照下面的内部方法评价无纺织物衬里的可拉伸性。
在一专门的模板(Schablone)上标画出20x20cm的测量段。从20cm的端部开始沿测量段标出刻度(x/y轴)。按1cm的段标出刻度-1cm对应于5％的拉伸率。为了进行确定，在无拉力的情况下将弹性平面物品在零点处铺放在20x20cm的测试段上，将其牢固保持并进行拉伸，直至出现阻滞/阻力(Blockade)，在出现所述阻滞处所述物品可重新回缩至初始状态。至材料阻滞的拉伸率可以在刻度上读出。测量可以在纵向和横向上进行并得出以％计的拉伸率值。
例1至3示出根据本发明的衬料。例4和5是根据现有技术类型制成的衬料，其中由于不同制造技术，应将例2与例4，例3与例5相比较：
例1：
将已干燥(＜0.1％的湿度)的、由基于聚酯的、具有85的肖氏硬度A、在210℃，2.16kp下MFI为17以及熔程为170-184℃(Kofler加热台)的热塑性聚氨酯族组成聚合物用熔融纺制技术纺制成纤维平面构型物。所述纤维平面构型物具有15g/m2的单位面积重量。
在梳理过程中，向所述纤维平面构型物添加由10g/m2的、具有1.7dtex的PA短纤维组成的纤维网(Faserflor)，并在＞150℃的轧光机温度下使其加固。轧光辊具有＞9％的热焊接面积(
Figure GSB00000441734100061
)的刻纹(Gravur)。在双点涂覆(9g/m3的聚酰胺粘附材料，在170℃的干燥温度下cp为52)后，按开头所述试验，所述弹性固定衬里沿横向具有25％的可逆拉伸率，沿纵向为13％。
例2
将已干燥(＜0.1％的湿度)的、由基于聚酯的、具有85的肖氏硬度A、在210℃，2.16kp下MFI为17以及熔程为170-184℃(Kofler加热台)的热塑性聚氨酯族组成聚合物用熔融纺制技术纺制成纤维平面构型物。所述纤维平面构型物具有15g/m2的单位面积重量。
在梳理过程中，向所述纤维平面构型物添加由10g/m2的、具有1.7dtex的PA短纤维组成的纤维网，并在＞150℃的轧光机温度下使其加固。轧光辊具有具有＞9％的热焊接面积的刻纹。在膏状物涂覆(10g/m3的聚酰胺粘附材料，在120℃的干燥温度下cp为52)后，按开头所述试验，所述弹性固定衬里沿横向具有50％的可逆拉伸率，沿纵向为23％。
例3
将已干燥(＜0.1％的湿度)的、由基于聚酯的、具有85的肖氏硬度A、在210℃，2.16kp下MFI为17以及熔程为170-184℃(Kofler加热台)的热塑性聚氨酯族组成聚合物用熔融纺制技术纺制成纤维平面构型物。所述纤维平面构型物具有15g/m2的单位面积重量。
在梳理过程中，向所述纤维平面构型物添加由10g/m2的、具有1.7dtex的PA短纤维组成的纤维网(Faserflor)，并通过喷水技术加固。在膏状物涂覆(9g/m3的聚酰胺粘附材料，在120℃的干燥温度下cp为52)后，接开头所述试验，所述弹性固定衬里沿横向具有至少40％的可逆拉伸率，沿纵向为17％。
例4
将已干燥(＜0.1％的湿度)的、由基于聚酯的、具有85的肖氏硬度A、在210℃，2.16kp下MFI为17以及熔程为170-184℃(Kofler加热台)的热塑性聚氨酯族组成聚合物用熔融纺制技术纺制成纤维。在利用PS技术加固的由18g/m2的、分别为1.7dtex的短纤维(85％的PA/15％的PES)组成的纤维无纺织物上铺放所述纤维，接下来在＞150℃的轧光机温度下加固所述两层的由加固的短纤维纺织物和聚氨酯纤维平面构型物组成的构型物。轧光辊具有具有＞9％的热焊接面积的刻纹。所述纤维平面构型物具有33g/m2的单位面积重量。
在膏状物涂覆(9g/m3的聚酰胺粘附材料，在120℃的干燥温度下cp为52)后，按开头所述试验，所述弹性固定衬里沿横向具有约20％的可逆拉伸率，沿纵向为7％。
例5
将已干燥(＜0.1％的湿度)的、由基于聚酯的、具有85的肖氏硬度A、在210℃，2.16kp下MFI为17以及熔程为170-184℃(Kofler加热台)的热塑性聚氨酯族组成聚合物用熔融纺制技术纺制成纤维。在喷水加固的由18g/m2的、分别为1.7dtex的短纤维(85％的PA/15％的PES)组成的纤维无纺织物上铺放所述纤维，接下来借助于喷水技术对由加固短纤维无纺织物构成的两层构型物再次进行加固。所述纤维平面构型物具有33g/m2的单位面积重量。
在膏状物涂覆(9g/m3的聚酰胺粘附材料，在120℃的干燥温度下cp为52)后，按开头所述试验，所述弹性固定衬里沿横向具有约20％的可逆拉伸率，沿纵向为12％。这种材料明显不如例1、2、3中的衬料。
可以看出，例1、2和3的根据本发明的衬料在其可拉伸性，即弹性上明显超过已知类型的衬料。

Claims (14)

1.一种可固定衬料，所述可固定衬料由无纺织物组成并用于纺织工业，所述可固定衬料包括至少一个熔融纺制的纤维组成的层和至少另一个由纤维材料组成的层，所述可固定衬料至少在部分区域内设有粘附材料，其特征在于，所述熔融纺制的纤维由弹性纤维材料组成，而所述至少一个由纤维材料组成的层由短纤维组成，将至少一个由弹性的熔融纺制的纤维组成的层和至少一个由短纤维组成层作为未加固的纤维平面构型物相互叠置铺放，接下来通过本身已知的加固步骤对其进行加固。
2.按权利要求1的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述纤维材料的主要部分由短纤维组成，所述短纤维由化学纤维和/或天然纤维组成。
3.按权利要求2的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述化学纤维具有＞165℃的熔点。
4.按权利要求3的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述化学纤维包括由聚酯和/或聚酰胺组成的单组分和/或多组分纤维或所述组分的纤维混合物。
5.按权利要求1至4中任一项的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述弹性纤维包括熔点＞165℃的弹性聚合物。
6.按权利要求1至4中任一项的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述弹性纤维包括熔点＞170℃的弹性聚合物。
7.按权利要求5的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述弹性聚合物具有＜98的肖氏柔软度。
8.按权利要求5的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述弹性聚合物包括热塑性聚氨酯类的化合物和/或基于聚酯-嵌段-共聚酰胺和/或弹性共聚酯的化合物。
9.按权利要求8的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述基于弹性共聚酯的化合物是基于共聚醚酯的化合物。
10.按权利要求8的可固定衬料，其特征在于，热塑性聚氨酯具有脂族或芳族结构。
11.按权利要求8的可固定衬料，其特征在于，热塑性聚氨酯是基于聚酯、聚醚或聚己酸内酯的。
12.按权利要求1至4中任一项的可固定衬料，其特征在于，所述短纤维具有＜2.5dtex的纤维纤度。
13.按权利要求1至4中任一项的可固定衬料，其特征在于，未加固的由短纤维组成的纤维平面构型物具有在1-100g/m2范围内的单位面积重量。
14.按权利要求1至4中任一项的可固定衬料，其特征在于，未加固的、由熔融纺制的弹性纤维组成的纤维平面构型物具有在5-200g/m2范围内的单位面积重量。
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