WO2024018818A1 - 複合繊維、構造糸、織編物及び衣類 - Google Patents

複合繊維、構造糸、織編物及び衣類 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024018818A1
WO2024018818A1 PCT/JP2023/023193 JP2023023193W WO2024018818A1 WO 2024018818 A1 WO2024018818 A1 WO 2024018818A1 JP 2023023193 W JP2023023193 W JP 2023023193W WO 2024018818 A1 WO2024018818 A1 WO 2024018818A1
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Prior art keywords
composite fiber
thermoplastic resin
yarn
fiber
polyester thermoplastic
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Ceased
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PCT/JP2023/023193
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English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
慎也 中道
太一 吉開
康二郎 稲田
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Toray Industries Inc
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Toray Industries Inc
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Priority to KR1020247035909A priority Critical patent/KR20250038197A/ko
Priority to JP2023539094A priority patent/JPWO2024018818A1/ja
Priority to US18/881,335 priority patent/US20250179694A1/en
Priority to EP23842749.6A priority patent/EP4560060A1/en
Priority to CN202380049173.XA priority patent/CN119452129A/zh
Publication of WO2024018818A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024018818A1/ja
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/32—Side-by-side structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/34—Core-skin structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/045—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to composite fibers, structural yarns, woven and knitted fabrics, and clothing.
  • one possible means of obtaining a soft, fluffy texture similar to that of wool is to obtain a fabric using an interlaced blended yarn of long fibers that has the crimp structure found in wool.
  • the technique disclosed in Patent Document 1 if the boiling water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage fibers is 10% or more, the fibers will be restricted in the fabric and sufficient softness will not be obtained.
  • the low shrinkage fiber disclosed in Patent Document 1 has a problem in that it cannot achieve both durability and texture because its physical properties are significantly deteriorated by alkali treatment. In other words, it was not possible to simultaneously satisfy softness, deep coloring, bulky texture that resembles wool, stretchability, and abrasion resistance.
  • the present invention was made in view of the above circumstances, and its purpose is to satisfy both stretch performance and abrasion resistance, and to have softness, deep coloring, and bulkiness among wool materials. It is an object of the present invention to provide composite fibers, structural yarns, woven and knitted fabrics, and clothing that exhibit the high sensitivity of woolen materials, in particular, a soft woolen feel.
  • the present invention has the following configuration.
  • the difference (M A ⁇ M B ) between the weight average molecular weight M A of the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the weight average molecular weight M B of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is 2,000 to 15,000.
  • the apparent thick/thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) of the composite fiber is 1.00 to 1.04.
  • the crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber is 3.0 to 25.0%.
  • the polyester thermoplastic resin B covers the polyester thermoplastic resin A, and the minimum value t min of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B and the thickness of the composite fiber
  • the ratio (t min /D) to the fiber diameter D is 0.01 to 0.10.
  • the length C t of the portion where the area where the thickness t satisfies 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the circumferential line of the composite fiber overlaps is the entire length of the composite fiber.
  • C t ⁇ 0.33C.
  • the woolen material satisfies both stretch performance and abrasion resistance, and has the characteristics of softness, deep color development, and bulkiness among wool materials, and in particular, the soft woolen material.
  • Composite fibers exhibiting tone are obtained.
  • structural yarns, woven and knitted fabrics, and clothing using the composite fibers of the present invention can be made into items in the field of outwear worn as women's and men's clothing, such as jackets, suits, and bottoms.
  • FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view illustrating the existence form of polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B of the composite fiber of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a perspective view illustrating one embodiment of the surface of the composite fiber of the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a drawing and relaxation heat treatment apparatus used in producing the composite fiber of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a final distribution plate according to Example 1 of the composite fiber of the present invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a final distribution plate according to Comparative Example 5 of the composite fiber of the present invention.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention includes polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B, and satisfies the following requirements (1) to (5).
  • the difference (M A ⁇ M B ) between the weight average molecular weight M A of the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the weight average molecular weight M B of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is 2,000 to 15,000.
  • the apparent thick/thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) of the composite fiber is 1.00 to 1.04.
  • the crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber is 3.0 to 25.0%.
  • the polyester thermoplastic resin B covers the polyester thermoplastic resin A, and the minimum value t min of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B and the thickness of the composite fiber
  • the ratio (t min /D) to the fiber diameter D is 0.01 to 0.10.
  • the length C t of the portion where the area where the thickness t satisfies 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the circumferential line of the composite fiber overlaps is the entire length of the composite fiber. For the peripheral length C, C t ⁇ 0.33C.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention includes a polyester thermoplastic resin A and a polyester thermoplastic resin B.
  • the polyester resin used in the composite fiber of the present invention is a polyethylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, a polytrimethylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is trimethylene terephthalate, or a polytrimethylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is butylene.
  • Polybutylene terephthalate resin, which is terephthalate, is preferred.
  • the main repeating unit of both the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B is ethylene terephthalate.
  • the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate
  • the proportion of the structure derived from ethylene terephthalate contained in the repeating unit is 60 mol% or more. The same applies hereafter.
  • the above polyethylene terephthalate resin, polytrimethylene terephthalate resin, and polybutylene terephthalate resin may have a small amount (usually less than 30 mol %) of a copolymer component, if necessary.
  • the copolymerization component of the polyester thermoplastic resin A is 8 mol % or less, the crimp elongation rate can be increased and the strength can be maintained even after alkali weight loss, making it easy to obtain softness, which is preferable.
  • the copolymerization component to 8 mol % or less, the molecular orientation in the composite fiber can be maintained even after dyeing, thereby improving dimensional stability.
  • both the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B have a copolymerization component of 5 mol% or less, and more preferably, both the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B contain a copolymerization component. This is something that cannot be done. Since no copolymerization component is included, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the composite fiber can be reduced to 10% or less, making it easier to make the texture of woven or knitted fabrics softer.
  • a micropore forming agent, a cationic dyeing agent, and a coloring inhibitor may be added as necessary within a range that does not impair the purpose of the present invention.
  • a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant, a fluorescent whitening agent, a matting agent, a coloring agent, an antistatic agent, a moisture absorbent, an antibacterial agent, an inorganic fine particle, etc. may be contained one or more.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention has a difference between the weight average molecular weight M A of the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the weight average molecular weight M B of the polyester thermoplastic resin B (M A - M B , hereinafter simply referred to as "the weight average molecular weight of the polyester thermoplastic resin B"). (sometimes referred to as “difference") is between 2,000 and 15,000. If the difference in weight average molecular weight is less than 2,000, the resilience and stretchability of the composite fiber will be low, and since cracks will not be formed due to alkali treatment, the color development will also be low.
  • the difference in weight average molecular weight is preferably 5000 or more. On the other hand, if the difference in weight average molecular weight is greater than 15,000, the strength of the yarn decreases and spinning becomes unstable.
  • the difference in weight average molecular weight is preferably 13,000 or less.
  • the weight average molecular weight M A of the polyester thermoplastic resin A is preferably in the range of 20,000 to 28,000
  • the weight average molecular weight M B of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is preferably in the range of 12,000 to 20,000. It is preferable that When each content is within this range, the functionality and durability of the composite fiber are improved, and the process stability when spinning the composite fiber is also improved.
  • weight average molecular weight in the present invention is measured by the method described in Examples.
  • polyester thermoplastic resin B covers polyester thermoplastic resin A. That is, as schematically illustrated in FIG. 1, the polyester thermoplastic resin A1 and the polyester thermoplastic resin B2 are joined together without being substantially separated in a cross section substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis of the composite fiber. It has a composite cross section in which the polyester thermoplastic resin B2 covers the polyester thermoplastic resin A1 on the fiber surface.
  • the ratio between the minimum value t min of the thickness t16 of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the fiber diameter D of the composite fiber (t min /D) is 0.01 to 0.10. If (t min /D) is less than 0.01, the quality of the fabric, abrasion resistance, and color development due to fuzz etc. will be reduced. Preferably, it is 0.02 or more. Moreover, when (t min /D) exceeds 0.10, it becomes difficult to obtain bulkiness and softness due to sufficient crimp development force. From the viewpoint of further improving bulkiness and softness as well as stretchability, (t min /D) is preferably 0.08 or less. As a method of adjusting (t min /D) to the above range, as will be described later, there is a method of carrying out the spinning process using a specific distribution plate.
  • the cross section of the composite fiber of the present invention is preferably an eccentric core-sheath type.
  • the length C t of the portion where the region where the thickness t satisfies 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the circumferential line of the composite fiber overlaps is the entire length of the composite fiber.
  • C t For the peripheral length C, C t ⁇ 0.33C.
  • the individual total value is set as C t .
  • the composite fiber of the present invention has an apparent thick/thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) of 1.00 to 1.04.
  • the apparent thick/thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) is defined by measuring the width in the direction orthogonal to the fiber axis direction of a 50 cm composite fiber bundle at a load of 0.11 cN/dtex, and measuring the width in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction. It is the ratio of the average fiber diameter (D thick ) of the relatively thick portion to the average fiber diameter (D thin ) of the relatively thin portion after classifying the fibers into relatively thick and thin portions.
  • the apparent thick/thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) of the composite fiber is theoretically 1.0 or more.
  • (D thick /D thin ) when (D thick /D thin ) is larger than 1.04, the abrasion resistance decreases, and the bulkiness and softness decrease.
  • (D thick /D thin ) is preferably 1.02 or less.
  • (D thick /D thin ) can be set within the above range by performing pin stretching in a range exceeding the natural stretching ratio and performing relaxation heat treatment.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention has a crimp elongation rate of 3.0 to 25.0%.
  • the crimp elongation rate is preferably 5.0% or more.
  • the crimp elongation rate exceeds 25.0%, the crimp becomes too fine and the bulkiness and softness of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric are impaired.
  • the crimp elongation rate is preferably 15.0% or less. The crimp elongation rate can be measured by the method described in Examples.
  • the crimp elongation rate can be set within the above range by subjecting the yarn obtained in the spinning process to pin stretching and relaxation heat treatment. If only pin stretching is performed, the difference in orientation of the thermoplastic resin constituting the composite fiber becomes large, and the crimp elongation rate becomes too large. On the other hand, if only the relaxation heat treatment is performed, the difference in orientation of the thermoplastic resin constituting the composite fiber becomes too small, and the crimp elongation rate becomes too small.
  • the present invention achieves wool-like high sensitivity such as softness, deep color development, and bulkiness, which were problems of conventional mixed fiber materials, and stretch. Both performance and wear resistance characteristics can be solved at once.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber is not particularly limited, and circular, elliptical, triangular, etc. cross-sectional shapes can be adopted, but the composite fiber that satisfies requirements (1) to (5) must be circular. This method is more preferable because the fiber can be stably spun.
  • the ratio S A :S B of the area of polyester thermoplastic resin A (S A ) to the area of polyester thermoplastic resin B (S B ) in the cross section is preferably 70:30 to 70:30.
  • the ratio is 30:70, more preferably 60:40 to 40:60, physical properties are improved.
  • S A ⁇ SB in order to make the crimp of the composite fiber finer, it is further preferable that S A ⁇ SB .
  • the average fiber diameter D ave of the composite fiber in the present invention is preferably 10 ⁇ m to 30 ⁇ m. By setting it within this range, it is possible to obtain firmness, firmness and stretchability when made into a woven or knitted fabric, and a soft feel that is closer to that of natural wool materials.
  • the average fiber diameter D ave is a value calculated from the fineness of the composite fiber.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention is preferably twisted depending on the desired purpose.
  • the twisted yarn preferably has a twist coefficient (K) of 6,000 to 24,000. By setting it within this range, it is easier to obtain stretchability and resilience of the woven or knitted material.
  • the twist coefficient can be calculated using the following formula.
  • Twist coefficient (K) number of twists (T/m) x ⁇ (fineness (dtex) x 0.9).
  • the composite fiber of the present invention usually develops a structure such as crimp due to thermal history.
  • the thermal history include hot water treatment, alkali weight loss treatment, etc. performed in the dyeing process described below.
  • composite fibers exhibiting such a structure such as crimping are referred to as structural yarns.
  • the structural yarn of the present invention preferably has cracks around the entire surface of the structural yarn in at least a portion of the fiber in the fiber length direction.
  • cracks around the entire surface of the structural yarn By having cracks around the entire surface of the structural yarn, the color development of the woven or knitted fabric can be further enhanced.
  • “having cracks all over the surface” may mean that cracks are formed around the entire surface of the structural yarn due to a single crack, or cracks are formed around the entire surface of the structural yarn due to two or more cracks. Cracks may be formed around the circumference.
  • it is preferable that cracks are formed around the entire surface of the structural yarn by 10 or less cracks. More preferably, the cracks are formed in a direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the structural yarn.
  • the depth of the cracks in the direction substantially perpendicular to the structural threads is changed in the circumferential direction of the fibers. Further, the depth of the crack is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 ⁇ m. Moreover, as for the frequency of crack formation, it is preferable that cracks are formed over the entire surface of the structural yarn with 10 or less cracks within a range of 1 cm in the fiber axis direction. By doing so, the woven or knitted fabric using the structural yarn can be made to have higher softness and deeper color development.
  • the depth of the crack shall be measured at the deepest point of the crack.
  • direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the structural threads means that the cracks 4 are formed along the circumference, substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the structural threads 3, as schematically illustrated in FIG. It is.
  • the depth and length of cracks are observed using an electron microscope, and the average value obtained by measuring 10 cracks within one structural thread is used. The specific measurement method is as described in Examples. Furthermore, if it is difficult to continuously observe the entire circumference of the structural yarn, if cracks are uniformly present in any part of the multifilament, it can be assumed that the cracks cover the entire surface.
  • the conjugate fiber of the present invention may coexist with at least one other yarn in the form of a mixed conjugate fiber. That is, the mixed fiber conjugate fiber of the present invention is the composite fiber of the present invention mixed with at least one type of other yarn. By doing so, the abrasion resistance of the woven or knitted fabric can be further improved.
  • polyester is preferred because it has good crimp and mechanical properties and has excellent dimensional stability against changes in humidity and temperature. It is preferable that the material is made of resin.
  • the polyester resin include polyethylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is trimethylene terephthalate, or polybutylene terephthalate resin whose main repeating unit is butylene terephthalate. is preferred.
  • the above polyethylene terephthalate resin or polybutylene terephthalate resin may contain a small amount (usually less than 30 mol% (the total of the acid component and diol component is 100 mol%)) of a copolymerized component, if necessary. Good too. Further, from the viewpoint of soft texture and fiber recycling, it is more preferable that all threads constituting the mixed fiber composite fiber are polyethylene terephthalate resin containing no covalent components.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate of the other yarns is preferably 10% or less, particularly preferably 8% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage rate is 10% or less, the softness of the woven or knitted fabric can be further improved. Further, the boiling water shrinkage rate is preferably 0% or more. When the boiling water shrinkage rate is 0% or more, dimensional stability is excellent. The boiling water shrinkage rate can be determined from the dimensions before and after immersion in 100°C hot water according to the JIS L1013 (2021) 8.18.1a method.
  • the other yarns are latent crimped yarns.
  • the term “potentially crimped yarn” refers to a yarn with a crimp elongation rate of 5.0% or more.
  • the crimp elongation rate of the other yarn is preferably 10.0 to 30.0% higher than the crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber.
  • the composite fiber and crimps having different coil diameters are mixed in the mixed composite fiber, so that it is possible to obtain bulkiness and softness that are closer to those of wool.
  • the difference in crimp development rate is 10% or more, bulkiness and softness can be further improved.
  • the difference in crimp development rate is within 30%, the difference in coil diameter between the composite fiber and the composite fiber becomes small, and separation of the composite fiber and other yarns can be prevented.
  • the structural yarn of the present invention may be a structural yarn in which at least one other yarn coexists in the form of a mixed fiber composite fiber. If the other threads coexisting with the composite fiber in the mixed composite fiber are latent crimped fibers, the above thermal history will develop a structure such as crimps, and the composite fiber will form a structure as an actual crimped fiber. It will coexist with the developed structural threads.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains at least a portion of the composite fiber and/or mixed composite fiber of the present invention.
  • a woven or knitted fabric can also be constructed using only conjugate fibers or mixed conjugate fibers.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be made into a woven or knitted fabric by weaving or knitting the conjugate fiber of the present invention at least in part.
  • the composite fibers in the woven or knitted fabric become structural yarns that have developed a structure through a dyeing process and an alkali weight loss process that is carried out as necessary.
  • the former method is preferable.
  • Such a woven or knitted fabric is a woven or knitted fabric that includes structural yarns at least in part.
  • the composite fiber or structural yarn to be subjected to the above-mentioned weaving and knitting may be in the form of a composite mixed fiber mixed with other threads.
  • the blended composite fiber may be a blended yarn of a composite fiber and other yarns, a composite false twisted yarn, or a combined twisted yarn, and may also be a blended yarn of a composite fiber and other yarns in a form such as inter-knitting or interweaving.
  • the proportion of the conjugate fiber and/or mixed conjugate fiber of the present invention used is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more based on the mass of the woven or knitted fabric. It is also a preferred embodiment that all of the fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric are composed of the conjugate fibers and/or mixed conjugate fibers of the present invention.
  • the fabric structure of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric.
  • the fabric structure is selected from plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and variations thereof depending on the texture and design. Furthermore, a multiple weave structure such as a double weave may be used.
  • the knitting structure may be selected according to the desired texture and design, and examples of weft knitting include jersey knitting, rubber knitting, pearl knitting, tuck knitting, floating knitting, lace knitting, and variations thereof.
  • Warp knitting includes single denby knitting, single vandyke knitting, single cord knitting, Berlin knitting, double denby knitting, atlas knitting, cording knitting, half tricot knitting, satin knitting, sharkskin knitting, and their variations. can be mentioned.
  • relatively simple weaving and knitting structures such as plain weave or its variations, twill weave or its variations, and satin weave are more preferable in order to have a delicate worsted texture and a deep natural appearance.
  • the clothing of the present invention includes at least a portion of the composite fiber of the present invention (including structural yarns in which the fiber has a structure), a mixed composite fiber, or a woven or knitted fabric.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention including structural yarns in which the fiber has a structure
  • a mixed composite fiber or a woven or knitted fabric.
  • the clothing of the present invention refers to items in the field of outwear worn as women's and men's clothing, sports clothing, and outdoor clothing, particularly jackets, suits, bottoms, and parts thereof, such as front bodies, back bodies, and collars. These items include items such as jackets, sleeves, chest pockets, and side pockets, as well as innerwear, socks, and hats.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention can be produced by winding the discharged thermoplastic resin as an undrawn yarn or a semi-drawn yarn, then drawing it once, and subjecting it to a relaxation heat treatment.
  • it is a composite fiber obtained by including a step of stretching after winding it as a semi-drawn yarn, due to the orientation difference between polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B, when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric and dyed. It is particularly preferable because it has excellent stretchability, and because the polyester resin A is highly oriented, it has excellent resistance to embrittlement due to alkali weight loss.
  • polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B are each melted, and these are discharged from a spinneret at a rate of preferably 1400 m/min to 3800 m/min.
  • the yarn is wound as an undrawn yarn or a semi-drawn yarn at a spinning speed.
  • the spinning temperature is preferably +20° C. to +50° C. relative to the melting points (T mA , T mB ) of the thermoplastic polyester resin A and the thermoplastic polyester B.
  • (T mA , T mB )+20° C. or higher can prevent the melted polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B from solidifying and clogging inside the spinning machine piping.
  • by setting the temperature to (T mA , T mB )+50° C. or lower thermal deterioration of the molten polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B can be suppressed.
  • the die used in the method for producing composite fibers of the present invention may have any known internal structure as long as it is capable of spinning with stable quality and stable operation.
  • the polyester thermoplastic resin A is completely covered with the polyester thermoplastic resin B in the cross section of the composite fiber as described above.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention has a minimum value t min of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A, and a thickness t in the cross section of the composite fiber of 1.00 t min ⁇ It is preferable to precisely control the length C t of the portion where the region satisfying t ⁇ 1.05t min overlaps with the peripheral line of the composite fiber, as disclosed in JP-A No. 2011-174215 and JP-A No. 2011-208313.
  • a spinning method using a distribution plate as exemplified in Japanese Patent Publication No. 2012-136804, is preferably used.
  • t min can be kept within the above-mentioned range, the exposure of the polyester thermoplastic resin A that occurs as a result of an excessively small t min can be suppressed, and the woven fabric can be further suppressed. It is possible to suppress the whitening phenomenon and fuzz of knitted fabrics. Alternatively, it is possible to prevent t min from becoming excessively large, and to allow crimp of the composite fiber to occur within a suitable range, thereby improving the stretchability of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the cross-sectional form of the single yarn can be controlled by the arrangement of the distribution holes in the final distribution plate installed most downstream among the distribution plates made up of a plurality of plates.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a drawing and relaxation heat treatment apparatus used in producing the composite fiber of the present invention. That is, after the semi-drawn yarn 5 passes through the guide 6, it is heated and stretched between the first feed roller 7 and the second feed roller 9 with a hot pin 8, and further between the second feed roller 9 and the third feed roller 11. It is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment with a heater 10 to become a composite fiber 12, which is wound up in a winding section 13.
  • a semi-drawn yarn obtained by composite spinning at a spinning speed of 2500 to 3800 m/min was pin-stretched at a draw ratio of 1.5 to 2.2 times, a hot pin temperature of 70 to 150°C, and a yarn speed of 200 to 800 m/min. Afterwards, it is subjected to relaxation heat treatment at a heater temperature of 130 to 180°C and an overfeed rate of +25 to 55%. After pin drawing at 95°C and a yarn speed of 300 m/min, relaxation heat treatment is performed at a heater temperature of 140°C and an overfeed rate of +10%) to achieve an apparent thickness ratio of 1.00 to 1.04 and a crimp elongation rate.
  • the stretching be performed in a region equal to or higher than the upper limit of the natural stretching ratio, and that the overfeed rate of the relaxation heat treatment be 50% or less of the stretching ratio.
  • ком ⁇ онентs may be mixed with it to form a mixed fiber composite fiber.
  • the method of blending is not particularly limited, and general methods such as interlace blending, taslan blending, etc. may be used without any problem.
  • the composite fibers obtained in the drawing process are made into woven or knitted fabrics.
  • air jet looms, water jet looms, rapier looms, projectile looms, shuttle looms, etc. are used for weaving.
  • the woven or knitted fabric obtained in the above-described woven or knitted fabric forming step is subjected to an alkali weight loss treatment, if necessary, so that the alkali weight loss rate is 5 to 20%, more preferably 10 to 15%.
  • the composite fiber can be made to have cracks on its entire surface. Further, in order to avoid embrittlement due to selective reduction, a process using a continuous reduction method is preferable.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention usually develops its structure and develops crimp due to the thermal history in the dyeing process or the alkali weight loss process. Then, cracks are formed on the surface of the composite fiber due to the alkali weight loss process.
  • Detector Differential refractive index detector RI (Waters-2414, sensitivity 128x) Column: Showa Denko K.K. ShodexHFIP806M (2 columns connected) Solvent: Tetrohydrofuran (25cm 3 ) Flow rate: 1.0mL/min Column temperature: 30°C Injection volume: 0.10mL Standard material: polystyrene.
  • the fiber diameter D was a diameter in terms of yen.
  • Ten sets of the obtained fiber diameter D, peripheral length C, thickness t, and area ratio Sa of the polyester thermoplastic resin A were prepared and averaged.
  • the fiber diameter D was determined using three significant digits, the perimeter C and the thickness t, and the area ratio Sa was determined using two significant digits, and were defined as the fiber diameter D, peripheral length C, thickness t, and area ratio Sa of the present invention.
  • the thickness t is measured at 360 points every 1° in the fiber circumferential direction, and the smallest one is t min , and the area where the thickness t satisfies 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the peripheral line of the composite fiber are The length of the overlapping portion was defined as Ct . Further, the area ratio Sa of the polyester thermoplastic resin A was subtracted from the total area S of the cross section to obtain the area ratio Sb of the polyester thermoplastic resin B.
  • Crimping elongation rate The crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber was determined using the following formula.
  • Crimp elongation rate (%) [(L1-L0)/L0] x 100
  • L0 After wrapping 50 cm of composite fiber in gauze in a free state and leaving it for 24 hours, it was treated with hot water at 100°C x 15 minutes without load, and after drying at 20°C x 65RH% for 24 hours, 1.1 ⁇ 10 -3 Length after 30 seconds when a load of cN/dtex is suspended
  • L1 After measuring L0, the length after 30 seconds when a load of 0.22cN/dtex is suspended is measured 10 times. , the second decimal place of the average value was rounded off to one decimal place.
  • the conjugate fibers were separated and measured before L0 measurement.
  • the apparent thick/fine ratio of the structural yarns extracted from the woven or knitted fabrics after the dyeing process was determined using the same method.
  • Abrasion resistance A woven or knitted fabric was dyed black, and the dyed woven or knitted fabric was cut into a circle with a diameter of 10 cm, moistened with distilled water, and attached to a disk. Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric cut into 30 cm squares was fixed on a horizontal board while it was dry. The disk to which the woven or knitted fabric moistened with distilled water was attached was placed in horizontal contact with the fabric fixed on a horizontal plate, and the disk was heated at a speed of 50 rpm for 10 minutes so that the center of the disk drew a circle with a diameter of 10 cm. The disk was moved in a circular motion for a minute to cause friction between the two woven and knitted fabrics. After the friction was finished, the fabric was left to stand for 4 hours, and then the degree of discoloration of the woven or knitted fabric attached to the disk was evaluated using a gray scale for discoloration, using grades 1 to 5 in 0.5 grade increments.
  • the polyester thermoplastic resin A was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 25,000
  • the polyester thermoplastic resin B was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 15,000
  • the spinning temperature was 290°C
  • the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B were
  • the arrangement of the distribution holes in the final distribution plate installed most downstream among the distribution plates made up of multiple plates is as shown in Figure 4 so that the mass composite ratio is 50:50, and the number of discharge holes is 12 composite fiber spinnerets.
  • FIG. 4 it is shown that in the final distribution plate, a group of distribution holes 15 for polyester thermoplastic resin B are arranged around a group of distribution holes 14 for polyester thermoplastic resin A.
  • an eccentric core-sheath type composite cross section in which polyester thermoplastic resin A was included in polyester thermoplastic resin B was formed.
  • the yarn discharged from the spinneret was cooled with an air cooling device, and after being applied with an oil agent, it was wound up with a winder at a speed of 2600 m/min, and was stably wound up as a semi-drawn yarn with a total fineness of 100 dtex and a single filament count of 12.
  • the obtained semi-drawn yarn was fed to a drawing device at a speed of 300 m/min, and pin-stretched using a drawing device as shown in FIG. 3 at a drawing ratio of 1.80 times and a hot pin temperature of 95°C.
  • a composite fiber having an apparent thick/thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) of 1.02 was obtained.
  • S A :S B 50:50.
  • a 3/1 twill fabric was fabricated with a warp density of 115/2.54 cm and a weft density of 105/2.54 cm. Created.
  • this fabric was subjected to scouring, relaxing treatment, and intermediate heat setting. Thereafter, as a dyeing step, dyeing was performed using a disperse dye "Dystar Navy Blue S-GL" at a concentration of 1.0 owf% at a temperature of 130°C for 30 minutes, and a finishing heat setting was performed at 160°C. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 2 Composite fibers and woven fabrics were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that in the dyeing process, an alkali weight loss process (weight loss rate of 10%) was performed after intermediate setting to form cracks on the single yarn surface of the composite fibers. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 3 The composite fiber produced in Example 1 was interlaced with polyethylene terephthalate fiber (56 dtex-24 f, boiling water shrinkage rate: 8%, crimp elongation rate: 0.0%) as another yarn using an interlace nozzle.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the mixed fiber composite fibers had a blend ratio of 54%, the warp density was 88 threads/inch, and the weft density was 79 threads/inch (2.54 cm).
  • the results are shown in Table 1.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate was determined by measuring dimensional changes before and after immersion in 100° C. hot water according to JIS L1013 (2021) 8.18.1a method.
  • Example 4 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the following drawn yarns were used as other yarns. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Drawn yarn Side-by-side type composite fiber with 12 discharge holes, spun polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 25,000 and polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 15,000 at a spinning temperature of 290°C so that the mass composite ratio of each polyethylene terephthalate is 50:50.
  • the spinneret was then flowed into the spinneret.
  • the yarn discharged from the spinneret is cooled by an air cooling device, applied with an oil agent, and then taken out at 1,500 m/min, drawn 2.67 times between a preheated roller at 80°C and a roller at 4,000 m/min, and then drawn at 130 m/min. After heat-setting at 0.degree. C., the yarn was wound up using a winder to form a drawn yarn having a total fineness of 56 dtex, a single filament count of 12, and a crimp elongation rate of 32.0%.
  • Example 5 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the polyester thermoplastic resin A was a polyester with a weight average molecular weight of 19,000, and the polyester thermoplastic resin B was a polyester with a weight average molecular weight of 15,000. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 6 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the thermoplastic polyester resin A was a polyester having a weight average molecular weight of 25,000, which was obtained by copolymerizing 10 mol% of isophthalic acid (IPA) with respect to the acid component. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 7 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4, except that the heat setting temperature of the other yarns was 125° C. and the boiling water shrinkage rate was 10%. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 8 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the following drawn yarn was used as the other yarn. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Drawn yarn Polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 25,000 and polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 15,000 copolymerized with 10 mol% of isophthalic acid (IPA) based on the acid component at a spinning temperature of 290°C and a ratio of 50:50 of each polyethylene terephthalate. It was made to flow into a side-by-side type composite fiber spinneret having 12 discharge holes so as to achieve a mass composite ratio.
  • IPA isophthalic acid
  • the yarn discharged from the spinneret is cooled by an air cooling device, applied with an oil agent, and then taken out at 1,500 m/min, drawn 2.67 times between a preheated roller at 80°C and a roller at 4,000 m/min, and then drawn at 130 m/min. After heat-setting at °C, the yarn was wound up using a winder to form a drawn yarn having a total fineness of 56 dtex and a single filament count of 12.
  • Example 4 the spinneret used was replaced with a spinneret of the type described in JP-A-09-157941 from a distribution plate type spinneret, and was made of polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4, except that the side-by-side composite fibers were used.
  • the obtained fabric had low abrasion resistance due to peeling of the side-by-side composite cross section due to abrasion, and poor color development because high molecular weight polyethylene terephthalate with low color development was exposed.
  • Table 2 The results are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 2 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4, except that the relaxation heat treatment was performed without pin stretching.
  • the obtained woven fabric had low abrasion resistance due to local fiber cutting caused by the alkali treatment, and had poor bulkiness due to the low crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 3 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4, except that pin stretching was performed and relaxation heat treatment was not performed.
  • the resulting woven fabric had low color development due to the high orientation of the conjugate fibers, and poor bulkiness and softness due to the excessively high crimp elongation rate. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 5 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4, except that the pin draw ratio was 1.50 times and a composite fiber with an apparent thick/fine ratio of 1.22 was obtained.
  • the obtained woven fabric had low abrasion resistance in the thick part, low crimp elongation rate, and was therefore inferior in bulk and softness. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 4 the distribution holes of the final distribution plate of the spinneret used are such that the minimum value t min of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A is 10 times.
  • the arrangement was changed from Fig. 4 to Fig. 5, and a core-sheath type composite fiber consisting of polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B and having (t min /D) of 0.20 was obtained.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except for the following. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 7 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the polyester thermoplastic resin A was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 20,000, and the polyester thermoplastic resin B was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 19,000. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • Polyester thermoplastic resin A 2 Polyester thermoplastic resin B 3: Composite fiber 4: Crack 5: Semi-drawn yarn 6: Guide 7: First feed roller 8: Hot pin 9: Second feed roller 10: Heater 11: Third feed roller 12: Composite fiber 13: Winding section 14: Distribution hole 15 of polyester thermoplastic resin A: Distribution hole 16 of polyester thermoplastic resin B: Thickness t of polyester thermoplastic resin B covering polyester thermoplastic resin A

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WO1992000408A1 (fr) * 1990-06-22 1992-01-09 Kanebo Ltd. Filament elastique composite a surface rugueuse, son procede de fabrication et structure fibreuse le comportant
JPH08269868A (ja) * 1995-04-03 1996-10-15 Toray Ind Inc ポリエステル中空糸織編物およびその製造方法
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