EP4560060A1 - Composite fiber, structural yarn, woven and knitted fabric, and clothing - Google Patents

Composite fiber, structural yarn, woven and knitted fabric, and clothing Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4560060A1
EP4560060A1 EP23842749.6A EP23842749A EP4560060A1 EP 4560060 A1 EP4560060 A1 EP 4560060A1 EP 23842749 A EP23842749 A EP 23842749A EP 4560060 A1 EP4560060 A1 EP 4560060A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composite fiber
polyester
thermoplastic resin
based thermoplastic
woven
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23842749.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Shinya Nakamichi
Taichi Yoshigai
Kojiro Inada
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Industries Inc
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Toray Industries Inc
Publication of EP4560060A1 publication Critical patent/EP4560060A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/32—Side-by-side structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/34—Core-skin structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/045—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composite fiber, a structural yarn, a woven or knitted fabric, and a clothing.
  • a carded-wool touch fabric is required having softness, deep color development, feelings of a carded wool material characterized by bulkiness, and both functions such as stretchability and wear resistance and durability.
  • Patent document 1 Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2004-197231
  • a method for obtaining a grain appearance of wool touch a method of imparting thickness and thinness in a fiber longitudinal direction at a draw ratio of a natural draw ratio or less is known, and in this method, a grain appearance, which is one feature of various wool materials, can be obtained.
  • the characteristics of wool such as uniform deep color development, bulkiness, and softness are insufficient, and wear resistance is also difficult to obtain because a fiber structure of a thick portion in the thickness and thinness is undeveloped.
  • means for obtaining soft and bulky feelings of carded-wool touch means for obtaining a fabric with entangled mixed yarn of long fibers having a crimp (crimpiness) structure found in wool is considered.
  • a technique as disclosed in Patent Document 1 when the boiling water shrinkage rate of the high-shrinkable fiber is 10% or more, the fiber is constrained in the fabric, and sufficient softness cannot be obtained.
  • the low-shrinkage fiber disclosed in Patent Document 1 has a problem that durability and feelings cannot be achieved simultaneously because physical properties are significantly deteriorated by alkali treatment. That is, the carded-wool touch feelings such as softness, deep color development, and bulkiness, stretchability, and wear resistance could not be satisfied simultaneously.
  • the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a composite fiber, a structural yarn, a woven or knitted fabric, and clothing that satisfy both properties of stretchability and wear resistance, and exhibit high sensitiveness of a carded wool material, among wool materials, characterized by softness, deep color development, and bulkiness, particularly, soft carded-wool touch.
  • the present invention has the following structures.
  • the structural yarn, the woven or knitted fabric, and the clothing using the composite fiber of the present invention can be an item in the field of outerwear worn as a women's or men's wear, for example, clothing such as a jacket, a suit, or a lower garment.
  • a composite fiber of the present invention includes a polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and a polyester-based thermoplastic resin B, and satisfies the following requirements (1) to (5):
  • the composite fiber of the present invention includes the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B.
  • polyester-based resin to be used for the composite fiber of the present invention it is preferable to use a polyethylene terephthalate-based resin with a main repeat unit of ethylene terephthalate, a polytrimethylene terephthalate-based resin with a main repeat unit of trimethylene terephthalate, or a polybutylene terephthalate-based resin with a main repeat unit of butylene terephthalate. More preferably, both the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B have a main repeat unit of ethylene terephthalate.
  • the phrase "the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate" means that the proportion of a structure derived from ethylene terephthalate contained in the repeating unit is 60 mol% or more. The same applies hereinafter.
  • the polyethylene terephthalate-based resin, the polytrimethylene terephthalate-based resin, and the polybutylene terephthalate-based resin described above may have a small amount (usually less than 30 mol%) of copolymerization component as necessary.
  • the copolymerization component of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A is 8 mol% or less, the crimp elongation rate can be increased, and the strength is maintained even after alkali weight reduction, so that softness is easily obtained, which is preferable.
  • the copolymerization components are 8 mol% or less, a molecular orientation in the composite fiber can be maintained even after dyeing processing, for example, so that dimensional stability is improved.
  • the copolymerization components are 5 mol% or less in both the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B, and more preferably, the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B contain no copolymerization component.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate of the composite fiber can be 10% or less, so that it is easy to make the feelings of the woven or knitted fabric softer.
  • the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B in the present invention may contain one kind or two or more kinds of a micropore forming agent, a cationic dyeable agent, a coloring inhibitor, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant, a fluorescent brightener, a delusterant, a colorant, an antistatic agent, a moisture absorbent, an antibacterial agent, inorganic fine particles, and the like as necessary within a range in which the object of the present invention is not impaired.
  • the difference (M A - M B , hereinafter may be simply referred to as "difference in weight-average molecular weight") between the weight-average molecular weight M A of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the weight-average molecular weight M B of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B is 2000 to 15000.
  • difference in weight-average molecular weight is less than 2000, the resilience and stretchability of the composite fiber are lowered, and the color development is also lowered because cracks are not formed by alkali treatment.
  • the difference in weight-average molecular weight is preferably 5000 or more.
  • the difference in weight-average molecular weight is more than 15000, the strength of the raw yarn decreases, and spinning becomes unstable.
  • the difference in weight-average molecular weight is preferably 13000 or less.
  • a value of the weight-average molecular weight M A of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A is preferably in a range of 20000 to 28000
  • a value of the weight-average molecular weight M B of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B is preferably in a range of 12000 to 20000.
  • the weight-average molecular weight in the present invention is measured by the method described in Examples.
  • the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B covers the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A. That is, as schematically illustrated in Fig. 1 , the composite fiber has a composite cross-section in which the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A1 and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B2 are present in a state of being substantially joined without being separated in a cross-section substantially perpendicular to a fiber axis of the composite fiber, and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B2 covers the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A1 on a fiber surface.
  • the ratio (t min /D) of the minimum value t min of the thickness t16 of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A to the fiber diameter D of the composite fiber is 0.01 to 0.10. If (t min /D) is less than 0.01, fabric quality due to fluff or the like, wear resistance, and color development are deteriorated.
  • the ratio is preferably 0.02 or more.
  • (t min /D) exceeds 0.10, it becomes difficult to obtain bulkiness and softness by sufficient crimp exhibition force. From the viewpoint of further enhancing the bulkiness and softness as well as further improving the stretchability, the (t min /D) is preferably 0.08 or less. Examples of the method for setting (t min /D) within the above range include performing a spinning step using a specific distribution plate as described later.
  • the cross section of the composite fiber of the present invention is preferably an eccentric core-sheath type.
  • a length C t of a portion in which a region having the thickness t satisfying 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the circumferential line of the composite fiber are overlapped satisfies Ct ⁇ 0.33C with respect to a circumferential length C of the entire composite fiber.
  • a portion in which a region having the thickness t satisfying 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the circumferential line of the composite fiber are overlapped is discontinuous, a total of individual values is defined as Ct.
  • the apparent thick-to-thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) is 1.00 to 1.04.
  • the apparent thick-to-thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) is a ratio of an average fiber diameter (D thick ) of relatively thick portions to an average fiber diameter (D thin ) of relatively thin portions after a width in a direction orthogonal to the fiber axis direction is measured for 50 cm of the composite fiber bundle at a load of 0.11 cN/dtex and is classified into relatively thick portions and thin portions by the method described in Examples.
  • An apparent thick-to-thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) of the composite fiber is theoretically 1.0 or more.
  • (D thick /D thin ) when (D thick /D thin ) is more than 1.04, wear resistance is deteriorated, and bulkiness and softness are deteriorated.
  • (D thick /D thin ) is preferably 1.02 or less.
  • (D thick /D thin ) can be set to the above range by performing pin draw in a range exceeding the natural draw ratio and performing relaxation heat treatment.
  • the crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber of the present invention is 3.0 to 25.0%. In the case where the crimp elongation rate is less than 3.0%, bulkiness and wear resistance cannot be obtained. Preferably, the crimp elongation rate is 5.0% or more. On the other hand, when the crimp elongation rate exceeds 25.0%, the crimp becomes too fine, and the bulkiness and softness of the woven or knitted fabric surface are impaired. When the crimp elongation rate is too high, cracks are not formed because the orientation of the thermoplastic resins constituting the composite fiber is high, and the color development is poor. The crimp elongation rate is preferably 15.0% or less. The crimp elongation rate can be measured by the method described in Examples.
  • the crimp elongation rate can be set within the above range by subjecting the yarn obtained in the spinning step to pin draw and relaxation heat treatment.
  • pin draw the orientation difference of the thermoplastic resins constituting the composite fiber increases, and the crimp elongation rate becomes too large.
  • relaxation heat treatment the orientation difference of the thermoplastic resins constituting the composite fiber becomes too small, and the crimp elongation rate becomes too small.
  • the composite fiber is not limited to a particular cross-sectional shape, and cross-sectional shapes such as a circular shape, an elliptical shape, and a triangular shape can be adopted.
  • the circular shape is more preferable because the composite fiber satisfying the requirements (1) to (5) can be stably spun.
  • a ratio S A : S B of the area (S A ) of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A to the area (S B ) of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B in the cross-section is preferably 70 : 30 to 30 : 70, more preferably 60 : 40 to 40 : 60, physical properties are improved.
  • S A ⁇ S B is further preferable.
  • An average fiber diameter D ave of the composite fiber in the present invention is preferably 10 ⁇ m to 30 ⁇ m. Within this range, tenseness, stiffness, and stretchability, and a soft touch close to a natural wool material in the case of the woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. In the present invention, the average fiber diameter D ave is a value calculated from the fineness of the composite fiber.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention is preferably subjected to twist yarn for a desired purpose.
  • the twist coefficient (K) of twist yarn is preferably set to 6000 to 24000. Within such a range, the stretchability and resilience of the woven or knitted fabric are more easily obtained.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention usually exhibits a structure such as crimpiness by thermal history.
  • the thermal history include hot water treatment, alkali weight reduction treatment, and the like performed in a dyeing step and the like described later.
  • a composite fiber exhibiting a structure such as crimpiness is referred to as a structural yarn.
  • the structural yarn of the present invention preferably has a crack on the entire circumference of the surface of the structural yarn in at least a portion of the fiber in the fiber length direction.
  • the color development of the woven or knitted fabric can be further enhanced by having a crack on the entire circumference of the surface of the structural yarn.
  • "having a crack on the surface entire periphery” may mean that a crack is formed on the entire circumference of the surface of the structural yarn by one crack, or that cracks are formed over the entire periphery of the surface of the structural yarn by two or more cracks.
  • the crack is formed in a direction substantially perpendicular to a longitudinal direction of the structural yarn. Still more preferably, the crack in the direction substantially perpendicular to the structural yarn is formed such that its depth changes in a fiber circumferential length direction. In addition, the depth of the crack is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 ⁇ m. In addition, the frequency of crack formation is preferably in a form in which cracks are formed over the entire circumference of the surface of the structural yarn by 10 or less cracks within a range of 1 cm in the fiber axis direction. In this way, a woven or knitted fabric using the structural yarn can have higher softness and more deep color development.
  • the depth of the crack is measured at the deepest points of the crack.
  • the direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the structural yarn means that a crack 4 is formed along the circumference substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of a structural yarn 3 as schematically illustrated in Fig. 2 .
  • the depth and length of the crack average values obtained by observing the crack using an electron microscope and measuring 10 cracks in one structural yarn are used. A specific measurement method is as described in Examples.
  • the composite fiber according to the present invention may be a composite fiber in which at least one type of another thread coexists in a form of a combined filament composite fiber subjected to mixing. That is, in a combined filament composite fiber of the present invention, at least one type of another thread is mixed with the composite fiber of the present invention. By doing so, the wear resistance in the case of the woven or knitted fabric can be further improved.
  • the other thread is not particularly limited as long as it is different from the composite fiber of the present invention, but in particular, the thread is preferably constituted of a polyester-based resin because of satisfactory crimpiness and mechanical properties and excellent dimensional stability against humidity and temperature changes.
  • the polyester-based resin it is preferable to use a polyethylene terephthalate-based resin with a main repeat unit of ethylene terephthalate, a polytrimethylene terephthalate-based resin with a main repeat unit of trimethylene terephthalate, or a polybutylene terephthalate-based resin with a main repeat unit of butylene terephthalate.
  • the polyethylene terephthalate-based resin or the polybutylene terephthalate-based resin described above may have a small amount (usually less than 30 mol% (assuming that total of acid components and diol components is 100 mol%) of copolymerization components as necessary.
  • all the threads constituting the combined filament composite fiber are more preferably polyethylene terephthalate resins that do not contain a shared synthetic component.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate of the other thread is more preferably 10% or less, particularly preferably 8% or less.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate is 10% or less, the softness of the woven or knitted fabric can be further enhanced.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate is preferably 0% or more. When the boiling water shrinkage rate is 0% or more, dimensional stability is excellent.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate can be determined by dimensions before and after immersion in hot water at 100°C according to JIS L 1013 (2021) 8.18.1a method.
  • the other thread is preferably a latent crimping yarn.
  • latent crimping yarn refers to yarn having a crimp elongation rate of 5.0% or more.
  • the crimp elongation rate of the other thread is preferably 10.0 to 30.0% higher than the crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber.
  • the crimp exhibition rate is set in such a range, crimps having a different coil diameter from that of the composite fiber is mixed in the combined filament composite fiber, so that bulkiness and softness closer to carded wool can be obtained.
  • the difference in crimp exhibition rate is 10% or more, the bulkiness and softness can be further enhanced.
  • the difference in crimp exhibition rate is within 30%, the difference in coil diameter from the composite fiber is reduced, and separation of the composite fiber from the other thread can be prevented.
  • the structural yarn according to the present invention may be a structural yarn in which at least one type of another thread coexists in a form of a combined filament composite fiber subjected to mixing.
  • another thread coexisting with the composite fiber in the combined filament composite fiber is a latent crimping fiber
  • a structure such as crimpiness is exhibited according to the thermal history described above, and the thread coexists with a structural yarn in which a structure is exhibited from the composite fiber as an explicit crimping fiber.
  • a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes the composite fiber and/or the combined filament composite fiber of the present invention in at least a portion of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • a composite fiber or a combined filament composite fiber alone can constitute a woven or knitted fabric.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be formed into a woven or knitted fabric by being subjected to weaving or knitting using the composite fiber of the present invention in at least a portion of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the composite fiber in the woven or knitted fabric may be formed into a structural yarn in which a structure is exhibited.
  • the weaving or knitting may be performed after the composite fiber is formed into a structural yarn in which a structure is exhibited in advance, but the former method is preferable.
  • Such a woven or knitted fabric is a woven or knitted fabric including a structural yarn in at least a portion of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the composite fiber or the structural yarn to be subjected to the weaving or knitting may be in the form of composite mixed fibers mixed with the other thread.
  • the combined filament composite fiber may be a mixed yarn, a composite false twist yarn, or a combined twist yarn of the composite fiber and another thread, and further bulkiness and softness are obtained by constituting a woven or knitted fabric in the form of interlacing, interweaving, or the like of the combined filament composite fiber and another thread.
  • a usage rate of the composite fiber and/or the combined filament composite fiber of the present invention is preferably 30 mass% or more, more preferably 40 mass% or more, with respect to the mass of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • all the fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric are the composite fibers and/or the combined filament composite fibers of the present invention.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a fabric structure as a woven fabric or a knitted fabric.
  • a woven fabric texture is selected from plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and derivative weave thereof according to feelings and design properties. Furthermore, a multiple weave texture such as double weave may be employed.
  • a knitted fabric texture may be selected according to desired feelings and design properties, and examples of weft knitting include Jersey stitch, rubber stitch, pearl stitch, tuck stitch, float stitch, lace stitch, and derivative texture thereof, and examples of warp knitting include single denbigh stitch, single van dyke stich, single cord stitch, Berlin stitch, double denbigh stitch, atlas stitch, cord stitch, half tricot stitch, satin stitch, sharkskin stitch, and derivative texture thereof.
  • it is more preferable to use a relatively simple woven or knitted structure such as plain weave or derivative texture thereof, twill weave or derivative texture thereof, and satin weave in order to have a delicate worsted-wool feeling and a deep natural appearance.
  • a clothing of the present invention includes the composite fiber (including a structural yarn in which the structure of the composite fiber is exhibited) or the combined filament composite fiber, or the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention in at least a portion of the clothing. In this manner, it is possible to obtain clothing that satisfies both properties of the stretchability and the wear resistance that the composite fiber (including the structural yarn in which the structure of the composite fiber is exhibited) or the combined filament composite fiber, or the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, and exhibits softness, deep color development, and bulkiness.
  • the clothing of the present invention includes an item in the field of outerwear worn as a women's or men's garment, sportswear, and outdoor wear particularly a jacket, a suit, lower garment, and clothing including a part thereof, for example, a front main panel, a back main panel, a collar, a sleeve, a chest pocket, and a side pocket, innerwear, socks, hats, and the like.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention can be produced in a step of winding ejected thermoplastic resins as an undrawn yarn or a half drawn yarn, then, once drawing, and performing relaxation heat treatment.
  • the composite fiber obtained by including the step of drawing after being wound as a half drawn yarn is preferable because the composite fiber is particularly excellent in stretchability when formed into the woven or knitted fabric and processed with dyeing processing because of an orientation difference between the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B, and is also excellent in resistance to embrittlement due to alkali weight reduction because of an increase in orientation of the polyester resin A.
  • the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B are individually melted, and ejected from a spinneret, and wound up as the undrawn yarn or the half drawn yarn at a spinning speed of preferably 1,400 m/min to 3,800 m/min.
  • the yarn is preferably wound as a half drawn yarn at a spinning speed of 2,500 to 3,800 m/min.
  • a composite fiber formed from a half drawn yarn is preferable because the composite fiber is excellent in wear resistance after alkali weight reduction. Since the half drawn yarn is more crystallized than the undrawn yarn, a local fiber cutting due to alkali weight reduction can be inhibited.
  • a spinning temperature is preferably +20°C to +50°C higher than melting points (T mA , T mB ) of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B.
  • T mA , T mB melting points
  • T mA , T mB melting points
  • the spinneret used in the method for producing the composite fiber of the present invention may have any of common internal structures so long as the spinneret renders stable spinning with respect to quality and operation.
  • the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A is completely covered by the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B in the cross-section of the composite fiber as described above.
  • the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B is completely covered by the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B in the cross-section of the composite fiber as described above.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention it is preferable to precisely control the minimum value t min of the thickness t of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A, and a length C t of a portion in which a region having the thickness t in the cross-section of the composite fiber satisfying 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the circumferential line of the composite fiber are overlapped, and a spinning method using distribution plates as exemplified in Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2011-174215 , Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2011-208313 , and Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. 2012-136804 is suitably used.
  • t min can be set within the above-described range, exposure of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A generated as a result of an excessive decrease in t min can be inhibited, and whitening and fluffing of the woven or knitted fabric can be further inhibited. Alternatively, an excessive increase in t min can be inhibited, and the crimpiness of the composite fiber can be exhibited in a suitable range to improve the stretchability of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • a cross-sectional form of single yarn can be controlled by disposition of distribution holes in a final distribution plate installed most downstream among the plurality of distribution plates.
  • the yarn produced through the above-described spinning step is drawn using a draw and relaxation heat treatment device as illustrated in Fig. 3 at a draw ratio within a range exceeding a natural draw ratio of the yarn to form a drawn yarn, and then the relaxation heat treatment is performed to form a relaxation heat treatment yarn.
  • a desired composite fiber can be obtained.
  • Fig. 3 is a schematic view of a draw and relaxation heat treatment device used in production of the composite fiber of the present invention. That is, after passing through the guide 6, the half drawn yarn 5 is heated and drawn by a hot pin 8 between a first feed roller 7 and a second feed roller 9, further subjected to relaxation heat treatment by a heater 10 between the second feed roller 9 and a third feed roller 11 to become a composite fiber 12, and wound up by a winding section 13.
  • a half drawn yarn obtained by composite spinning at a spinning speed of 2500 to 3800 m/min is subjected to pin draw at a draw ratio of 1.5 to 2.2 times, a hot pin temperature of 70 to 150°C, and a yarn speed of 200 to 800 m/min, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment at a heater temperature of 130 to 180°C and an overfeed rate +25 to 55%
  • a half drawn yarn obtained by composite spinning at a spinning speed of 2600 m/min is subjected to pin draw at a draw ratio of 1.8 times, a hot pin temperature of 95°C, and a yarn speed of 300 m/min, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment at a heater temperature of 140°C and an overfeed rate +10%)
  • a composite fiber having an apparent thick-to-thin ratio of 1.00 or more and 1.04 or less and a crimp elongation rate of 3.0 to 25.0% can be obtained.
  • the draw is draw in a region in which the natural draw ratio is the upper limit or more, and that the overfeed rate of relaxation heat treatment is 50% or less of the draw ratio.
  • another thread may be combined by mixing or the like to form the combined filament composite fiber.
  • the mixing method is not particularly limited, and typical methods such as interlaced fiber mixing and Taslan fiber mixing have no problem.
  • the composite fiber obtained at the drawing step is formed into the woven fabric or the knitted fabric.
  • weaving is performed using an air-jet loom, a water-jet loom, a rapier loom, a projectile loom, a shuttle loom, or the like.
  • knitting is performed using a weft knitting machine such as a flat knitting machine, a full-fashion knitting machine, a circular knitting machine, a computer jacquard knitting machine, a socks knitting machine, and a cylindrical knitting machine, or a warp knitting machine such as a tricot knitting machine, a raschel knitting machine, an air-jet loom, and a milanese knitting machine.
  • the woven or knitted fabric obtained at the above-described step of forming the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment as necessary so that an alkali weight reduction rate is 5 to 20%, more preferably 10 to 15%.
  • an alkali weight reduction rate is 5 to 20%, more preferably 10 to 15%.
  • the entire surface of the above-described composite fiber can have cracks.
  • a continuous weight reduction process is preferable in order to avoid embrittlement due to selective weight reduction.
  • scouring, relaxation treatment, intermediate thermal setting, dyeing processing, and finishing thermal setting may be performed (in the present invention, these processes may be collectively referred to as "dyeing step").
  • feed and tension management of each step are appropriately performed.
  • overfeed is within 10% in a feed amount and a facility of, for example, a roll-to-roll system capable of controlling, and that a liquid amount and a flow rate are controlled so that an excessive tension is not applied to a travel direction in a batch-type jet dyeing machine or the like.
  • Dyeing is preferably performed in a dyeing solution at 110 to 130°C using a disperse dye or a cationic dye, though depending on the dyeability of the thermoplastic resins constituting the composite fiber or another thread to be combined.
  • the composite fiber of the present invention usually performs a structural exhibition and a crimp exhibition due to a thermal history in the dyeing step or the alkali weight reduction step. Then, cracks are formed on the surface of the composite fiber by the alkali weight reduction step.
  • the weight-average molecular weights of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B used in the composite fiber were measured using "TOSO GMHHR-H (S) HT” manufactured by Tosoh Corporation as a gel permeation chromatography (GPC) tester.
  • the fineness and the number of filaments of the composite fibers were measured in accordance with JIS L 1013 (2010) 8.3.1B method and JIS L 1013 (2010) 8.4, respectively, and a single yarn fineness was obtained from the fineness/number of filaments. From the obtained single yarn fineness, an average fiber diameter was calculated by the following formula.
  • D ave ⁇ m Single Yarn Fineness 10000 ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ 10 6 ⁇ 2 ⁇ : density (g/m 3 ) 1.38 ⁇ 10 6 g/m 3 in the case of polyethylene terephthalate.
  • a multifilament including composite fibers, embedded in an embedding material such as an epoxy resin continuously at 10 locations at intervals of 1 cm in the fiber axis direction was used as a sample, and each sample was photographed with a transmission electron microscope (TEM) to obtain an image thereof at such a magnification that 10 or more fibers can be observed.
  • TEM transmission electron microscope
  • metal dyeing was performed to render the contrast of a joint portion between the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B clear.
  • the fiber diameter D was measured from all the single yarns in the observation image, and the circumferential length C, the thickness t of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B, and the area Sa of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A were individually measured therefrom.
  • the fiber diameter D is a circle equivalent diameter.
  • the fiber diameter D, the circumferential length C, the thickness t, and the area ratio Sa of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A were obtained by preparing and averaging 10 sets.
  • the fiber diameter D was obtained with three significant digits, the circumferential length C, the thickness t, and the area ratio Sa were obtained with two significant digits, as the fiber diameter D, the circumferential length C, the thickness t, and the area ratio Sa of the present invention.
  • the thickness t was measured at 360 points every 1° in the fiber circumferential direction, the smallest thickness was t min , and the length of a portion in which a region having the thickness t satisfying 1.00t min ⁇ t ⁇ 1.05t min and the circumferential line of the composite fiber are overlapped was C t .
  • the area ratio Sa of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A was subtracted from the total area S of the cross section to obtain the area ratio Sb of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B.
  • the crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber was determined by the following formula.
  • Crimp elongation rate % L 1 ⁇ L 0 / L 0 ⁇ 100
  • L1 Length after 30 seconds when a load of 0.22 cN/dtex is suspended after L0 is measured
  • the measurement was performed 10 times, and the result was obtained by rounding off the second decimal place of the average value to one decimal place.
  • the composite fiber was separated and measured before L0 measurement.
  • Both ends of the composite fiber were fixed while a load of 0.11 cN/dtex was applied to the composite fiber.
  • a load of 0.11 cN/dtex was applied to the composite fiber.
  • the diameter of a fiber bundle was continuously measured at 500 locations at intervals of 1.0 mm in the fiber axis direction.
  • the fiber diameter (D thick ) of the thick portion and the fiber diameter (D thin ) of the thin portion were determined by defining a portion thinner than an average value of all the measurement data as the thin portion (thin portion ⁇ average value) and defining a portion thicker than the average value of all the measurement data as the thick portion (thick portion > average value), and an average value of the thick portion and the thin portion was obtained to calculate an apparent thick-to-thin ratio.
  • the apparent thick-to-thin ratio was obtained by rounding off the third decimal place to two decimal places.
  • the crack form was judged according to the following criteria.
  • the woven or knitted fabric was dyed black, and the woven or knitted fabric after being dyed was cut into a circle having a diameter of 10 cm, wetted with distilled water, and attached to a disk. Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric cut into 30 cm square was fixed on a horizontal plate while being dried. The disc, on which the woven or knitted fabric wetted with distilled water was attached, was brought into horizontal contact with a woven fabric fixed on a horizontal plate, and the disc was circularly moved at a speed of 50 rpm for 10 minutes so that the center of the disc draws a circle having a diameter of 10 cm, and the two woven or knitted fabrics were rubbed.
  • the woven or knitted fabric was left to stand for 4 hours, and the degree of discoloration and fading of the woven or knitted fabric attached to the disk was judged to be grades 1 to 5 in increments of grade 0.5 using a gray scale for discoloration.
  • Samples of the woven or knitted fabric formed using the composite fiber in the present invention were subjected to sensory evaluation in five stages of very good (5 points), good (4 points), normal (3 points), not very good (2 points), and bad (1 point) by using 10 healthy adults (five men and five women) as evaluators to evaluate color development of the woven or knitted fabric by a visual judgment, and bulkiness and softness thereof by a touch, and the result was obtained by rounding off the second decimal place of the average value of the inspectors to one decimal place.
  • a woven fabric made of a false-twist textured yarn of polyethylene terephthalate having the same total fineness and the same number of filaments as those in Examples and Comparative Examples was defined as normal (three points).
  • polyester-based thermoplastic resin A Polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 25000 was used as the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A
  • polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 15000 was used as the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B
  • the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B were caused to flow into a composite fiber spinneret having 12 ejection holes so as to have a mass composition ratio of 50 : 50 at a spinning temperature of 290°C, assuming that disposition of distribution holes in a final distribution plate installed most downstream among the plurality of distribution plates is in a shape illustrated in Fig. 4.
  • FIG. 4 shows a state in which a group of distribution holes 15 of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B is arranged around a group of distribution holes 14 of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A in the final distribution plate.
  • a composite cross section of an eccentric core-sheath type ( Fig. 1 ) in which the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A was contained in the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B was formed. Threads ejected from the spinneret were cooled by an air-cooling device, oiled, and wound up with a winder at a speed of 2600 m/min, to be stably wound up as a half drawn yarn having a total fineness of 100 dtex and 12 single yarn filaments.
  • the obtained half drawn yarn was fed to a drawing device at a speed of 300 m/min, subjected to pin draw at a draw ratio of 1.80 times, and a hot pin temperature of 95°C using the drawing device as shown in Fig. 3 , and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment at heater temperature 140°C and overfeed rate +20%, to obtain a composite fiber having an apparent thick-to-thin ratio (D thick /D thin ) of 1.02.
  • S A : S B 50 : 50.
  • a yarn obtained by imparting twist of 1200T/m to the above-described composite fiber was used as the warp and the weft, and a 3/1 twill texture woven fabric having a warp density of 115 yarns/2.54 cm and a weft density of 105 yarns/2.54 cm was produced.
  • the woven fabric was further subjected to scouring, relaxation treatment, and intermediate thermal setting. Thereafter, as the dyeing step, dyeing was performed at a concentration of 1.0 owf% and a temperature of 130°C for 30 minutes using a disperse dye "Dystar Navy BlueS-GL", and finishing thermal setting was performed at 160°C.
  • the results are shown in Table 1.
  • a composite fiber and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that in the dyeing processing, alkali weight reduction processing (reduction rate: 10%) was performed after intermediate setting to form cracks on the single yarn surface of the composite fiber.
  • alkali weight reduction processing reduction rate: 10%
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that a polyethylene terephthalate fiber (56 dtex-24f, boiling water shrinkage rate of 8%, crimp elongation rate of 0.0%) was entangled and mixed as another thread to the composite fiber produced in Example 1 with an interlacing nozzle to form a combined filament composite fiber in which the mixing rate of the composite fiber is 54%, and the warp density was 88 yarns/inch, and the weft density was 79 yarns/inch (2.54 cm).
  • the results are shown in Table 1.
  • the boiling water shrinkage rate was obtained by measuring changes in dimensions before and after immersion in hot water at 100°C according to JIS L 1013 (2021) 8.18.1a method.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the following drawn yarn was used as the other thread. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Drawn yarn A polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 25000 and a polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 15000 were flowed into a spinneret for a side-by-side type composite fiber having a discharge hole number of 12 so that a spinning temperature was 290°C and a mass composite ratio of the polyethylene terephthalates was 50 : 50.
  • the thread discharged from the spinneret was cooled by an air cooling device, applied with an oil agent, then taken up at 1500 m/min, drawn 2.67 times between a preheating roller at 80°C and a roller at 4000 m/min, subjected to thermal setting at 130°C, and then wound by a winder, and stably wound as a drawn yarn having a total fineness of 56 dtex and 12 single yarn filaments and a crimp elongation rate of 32.0%.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A was polyester having a weight-average molecular weight of 19000 and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B was polyester having a weight-average molecular weight of 15000.
  • the results are shown in Table 1.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that polyester having a weight-average molecular weight of 25000 obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid (IPA) with respect to an acid component in an amount of 10 mol% was used as the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A.
  • IPA isophthalic acid
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the thermal setting temperature of the other thread was 125°C and the boiling water shrinkage rate was 10%. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the following drawn yarn was used as the other thread. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Drawn yarn A polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 25000 obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid (IPA) with respect to an acid component in an amount of 10 mol% and a polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 15000 were flowed into a spinneret for a side-by-side type composite fiber having a discharge hole number of 12 so that a spinning temperature was 290°C and a mass composite ratio of the polyethylene terephthalates was 50 : 50.
  • IPA isophthalic acid
  • the thread discharged from the spinneret was cooled by an air cooling device, applied with an oil agent, then taken up at 1500 m/min, drawn 2.67 times between a preheating roller at 80°C and a roller at 4000 m/min, subjected to thermal setting at 130°C, and then wound by a winder, and stably wound as a drawn yarn having a total fineness of 56 dtex and 12 single yarn filaments.
  • a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the spinneret used in Example 4, which was the spinneret of the distribution plate type, was replaced with a spinneret of the type described in Japanese Patent Laid-open Publication No. H09-157941 , to obtain a side-by-side type composite fiber including the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B.
  • the obtained woven fabric had low wear resistance due to peeling of the composite cross section on the side by side due to abrasion, and was poor in color development because high molecular weight polyethylene terephthalate having low color development was exposed. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that relaxation heat treatment was performed without performing pin draw.
  • the obtained woven fabric had low wear resistance due to local cutting of fibers by alkali treatment, and was poor in bulkiness because the crimp elongation rate of the composite fiber was low.
  • the results are shown in Table 2.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that pin draw was performed and relaxation heat treatment was not performed.
  • the obtained woven fabric had low color development due to high orientation of the composite fiber, and also had poor bulkiness and softness due to too high crimp elongation rate. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that a composite fiber having an apparent thick-to-thin ratio of 1.22 and a crimp elongation rate of 27.0% was used with the pin draw ratio being 1.50 times and the heat treatment overfeed rate being 0%.
  • the obtained woven fabric had low wear resistance of the thick portion and a high crimp elongation rate, and thus had poor softness. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that a composite fiber having an apparent thick-to-thin ratio of 1.22 was used with the pin draw ratio being 1.50 times.
  • the obtained woven fabric had low wear resistance of the thick portion and a low crimp elongation rate, and thus had poor bulkiness and softness. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the disposition of the distribution holes of the final distribution plate of the spinneret used so that the value of the minimum value t min of the thickness t of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A would increase by 10 times in Example 4 was changed from that in Fig. 4 to Fig. 5 , to obtain a core-sheath type composite fiber including the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B and having (t min /D) of 0.20.
  • Table 2 The results are shown in Table 2.
  • a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A was polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 20000 and the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B was polyethylene terephthalate having a weight-average molecular weight of 19000.
  • the results are shown in Table 2.

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EP23842749.6A 2022-07-22 2023-06-22 Composite fiber, structural yarn, woven and knitted fabric, and clothing Pending EP4560060A1 (en)

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