WO2022264968A1 - 油性化粧料 - Google Patents

油性化粧料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022264968A1
WO2022264968A1 PCT/JP2022/023641 JP2022023641W WO2022264968A1 WO 2022264968 A1 WO2022264968 A1 WO 2022264968A1 JP 2022023641 W JP2022023641 W JP 2022023641W WO 2022264968 A1 WO2022264968 A1 WO 2022264968A1
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component
oil
fatty acid
oily
cosmetic
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PCT/JP2022/023641
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English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
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祥麻 吉田
知明 篠田
祐斗 井尾
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株式会社コーセー
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Priority to KR1020237040668A priority Critical patent/KR20240022463A/ko
Priority to CN202280041210.8A priority patent/CN117460494A/zh
Priority to JP2023529860A priority patent/JPWO2022264968A1/ja
Publication of WO2022264968A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022264968A1/ja

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to oily cosmetics.
  • Oil-based cosmetics are often used for the purpose of imparting color and luster to the skin and lips, and they are cosmetics that can greatly change the impression of the face with good color development and high make-up effects such as the luster of oil agents. Therefore, it is a very important quality item that the cosmetic effect lasts for a long time.
  • liquid ester compounds obtained by esterifying phenyl-modified silicone and multi-branched isostearic acid or multi-branched isostearyl alcohol to improve non-stickiness, durability of cosmetic effect, and stability, oily gelling.
  • a technique containing a certain ratio of agents for example, Patent Document 1
  • a technique containing hydrogenated polyisobutene and a specific fatty acid polyglycerol to improve makeup durability and secondary adhesion resistance for example, Patent Document 2
  • Patent Document 3 a technique of blending polyglyceryl isostearate that gels with water in order to improve the adhesiveness and color transfer prevention effect
  • JP 2012-149041 A JP 2019-167325 A Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2021-063068
  • the cosmetic film obtained by the technique of Patent Document 1 has a weak effect of preventing color transfer, and the color lasting is not sufficient.
  • the technique of Patent Document 2 can obtain the effect of preventing color transfer, it is not satisfactory in terms of feeling of burden and feeling of moisturizing.
  • gelation is weakened depending on the oil agent to be combined, and the color retention and adhesion feeling over time are not sufficient.
  • the present inventors have conducted intensive research in view of the above circumstances, and found that a combination of a specific polyglycerol fatty acid ester and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate has a phase separation effect when reacting with moisture on the skin or lips after application.
  • the present inventors have found that an oily cosmetic composition that is a combination of oils with excellent adhesion, has excellent adhesion to the skin and lips, and has a good long-lasting cosmetic film can be obtained, and has completed the present invention.
  • An oily cosmetic according to the present invention for achieving the above object has the following constitution. 1. the following components (A) and (B); (A) Polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate (B) An oil-based cosmetic containing a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, wherein the degree of polymerization of glycerin is 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of ester substitution is 80% or more.
  • the total amount of the component (A) and the component (B) is 25 to 75% by mass with respect to the entire oily cosmetic composition; The oily cosmetic described in .
  • component (C) an oil that separates after 24 hours at 25°C when mixed with the mixture of component (A) and component (B) (excluding component (A) and component (B)) 1. or 2.
  • the component (C) is a silicone oil; The oily cosmetic described in .
  • the total amount of the component (B) and the component (C) is 45% by mass or more with respect to the entire oily cosmetic composition; or 4.
  • the oily cosmetic described in is 45% by mass or more with respect to the entire oily cosmetic composition; or 4.
  • the mass ratio (A)/(B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is 0.01 to 1.2. ⁇ 6. Oily cosmetics according to any one of.
  • component (C) is a phenyl-modified silicone; ⁇ 7. Oily cosmetics according to any one of.
  • Said component (D) is fumed silicic anhydride; ⁇ 8. Oily cosmetics according to any one of.
  • Component (A) polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate and component (B) glycerin have a degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of ester substitution is 80% or more.
  • a method for improving the longevity of an oil-based cosmetic by combining a glycerin fatty acid ester and effecting phase separation when it reacts with moisture on the skin or lips after application.
  • FIG. 3 is a diagram showing evaluation results of evaluations 1(a) and (b) of Examples 1 and 10 and Comparative Examples 2 and 7;
  • the present invention provides the following components (A) and (B); (A) Polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate (B) An oily cosmetic containing a polyglycerin fatty acid ester, wherein the degree of polymerization of glycerin is 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of ester substitution is 80% or more. .
  • the present invention improves the feeling of adhesion of the coating film due to moisture on the skin and lips after application, and exhibits effects of high makeup durability (for example, good color retention and resistance to color transfer).
  • the present invention provides an oil-based cosmetic that reduces the feeling of burden, provides an excellent moisturizing feeling of the coating film, and has good stability.
  • component (A) and component (B) dissolve or disperse without separation under heating (for example, 80° C.). It is considered that the stability of the formulation is ensured because the two can exist in a dissolved or dispersed state without being separated under heating.
  • component (A) and component (B) dissolve or disperse without separation under heating (for example, 80° C.). It is considered that the stability of the formulation is ensured because the two can exist in a dissolved or dispersed state without being separated under heating.
  • 5 mass parts of water per 95 mass parts in total of the mixture obtained by mixing the component (A) and the component (B) the content mass ratio of the component (A) and the component (B) in the oil-based cosmetic
  • the part When the part is added, it gels. It is considered that the above effects of the present invention are achieved by forming such a state. More specifically, after the component (A) that has absorbed moisture separates from the component (B), it gels and forms a film to improve adhesion to the skin and lips, and the separated component
  • % by mass may be hereinafter simply described as "%", but it is assumed to mean % by mass, and when a numerical range is expressed using ⁇ , the range is Both ends shall be included.
  • operations and measurements of physical properties are performed under the conditions of room temperature (20 to 25° C.)/relative humidity of 40 to 55% RH.
  • component (A) of the present invention polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, is a diester of isostearic acid and polyglycerol having an average degree of polymerization of 10. Note that component (A) does not correspond to component (B). Component (A) is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, and one or more of these can be used.
  • component (A) Commercially available products of component (A) include S Face IS-1002P (manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.), NIKKOL Decaglyn 2-ISV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), Sunsoft Q-192Y-C (manufactured by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd.), and the like. .
  • the ratio of hardness II (unit N) to hardness I (unit N) of component (A) from the viewpoint of forming a gel by absorbing water after application, phase-separating from the oil agent, and increasing the feeling of adhesion Hardness II /Hardness I is preferably 1.0 to 10.0, more preferably 5.0 to 10.0.
  • the ratio of hardness II to hardness I depends on the raw material and differs depending on the addition position of isostearic acid and the structure of polyglycerin. When two or more types of component (A) are used, it refers to the hardness of the entire component (A) in consideration of the content mass ratio.
  • the hardness of polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate is defined as hardness I
  • the gel hardness obtained by mixing 95 parts by weight of polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate with 5 parts by weight of water and allowing the mixture to stand at room temperature for 1 hour is defined as hardness II.
  • the hardness in the present invention is a value measured with a rheometer manufactured by Rheotech at a measurement temperature of 35° C., an adapter of 15 ⁇ , a penetration speed of 10 cm/min, and a penetration of 3 mm.
  • the content of component (A) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5 to 35%, preferably 0.5 to 30%, based on the total amount of the oily cosmetic. % is more preferred, 1-20% is more preferred, and 1-10% is even more preferred. Within this range, the feeling of burden after application is small, the feeling of close contact and moisturizing is high, and the longevity and stability of makeup are excellent, which is more preferable.
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid ester of the component (B) of the present invention is an ester of polyglycerol having a (average) degree of polymerization of 2 to 12 and a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and has a degree of ester substitution of 80% or more ( 100% upper limit).
  • Component (B) of the present invention is a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 2 to 12, a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and a degree of ester substitution of 80% or more.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate and the like can be mentioned. 1 type(s) or 2 or more types can be used for these.
  • One aspect of the present invention contains at least one selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, and polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate.
  • Another aspect of the present invention is an oily cosmetic containing polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate and/or polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate.
  • Such component (B) is usually liquid at 25°C.
  • the degree of ester substitution (%) ⁇ number of moles of branched fatty acid added / (n + 2) ⁇ ⁇ 100 (n is the poly It can be calculated as the (average) degree of polymerization of glycerin.
  • the constituent glycerin has a degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, preferably 5 to 10 from the standpoint of lasting makeup.
  • the constituent fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and 8 carbon atoms. is particularly preferred. From the standpoint of cosmetic durability, a form containing only a polyglycerin fatty acid ester composed of a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms as the component (B) polyglycerin fatty acid ester is also suitable. Among these, 2-ethylhexanoic acid having 8 carbon atoms is particularly preferred.
  • component (B) examples include polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, and polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate.
  • Component (B) may be a commercially available product, specifically, polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, KEH-1010 (degree of ester substitution 83.3%) (manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.), decaisostearin As acid polyglyceryl-10, NIKKOL Decaglyn 10-ISV (ester substitution degree 83.3%) (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), Sun Oil DDI (ester substitution degree 83.3%) (manufactured by Taiyo Kagaku), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 includes Cosmol 44V (degree of ester substitution: 100%) (manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group) and the like.
  • the content of component (B) (the total content when two or more are used) is preferably 20 to 80%, more preferably 30 to 70%, of the entire oily cosmetic. Within this range, the stability is good and the feeling of close contact and longevity of makeup are excellent, which is more preferable.
  • the total content of component (A) and component (B) is preferably 25 to 85%, more preferably 25 to 75%, more preferably 40 to 60% of the entire oily cosmetic composition. % is even more preferred. Within this range, the moisturizing feeling and adhesion feeling are high, and the makeup lasts longer, which is more preferable.
  • the content ratio (A)/(B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.01 or more from the viewpoint of moisturizing feeling and close contact feeling, and the cosmetic persistence. From the point of view, it is more preferably 0.08 or more, and even more preferably 0.1 or more.
  • (A)/(B) is preferably 1.2 or less, more preferably less than 1.2, and 0.5 or less from the viewpoint of feeling of no burden and stability. is even more preferable, and 0.2 or less is particularly preferable.
  • (A)/(B) is preferably 0.01 to 1.2, more preferably 0.07 to 0.5, even more preferably 0.1 to 0.2. This range is more preferable because the stability is good and the feeling of no burden is excellent.
  • the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention further contains component (C): a liquid oil that separates after 24 hours at 25° C. when mixed with the mixture of components (A) and (B). It is preferable because it can further improve the adhesion-less effect (for example, resistance to color transfer) and the feeling of close contact. "When mixed with a mixture of component (A) and component (B), it separates after 24 hours at 25 ° C.” means a mixture of component (A) and component (B) (mixing mass ratio in oily cosmetic ) to 100 parts by mass of component (C) was heated to 80° C., mixed, dissolved and dispersed, allowed to cool to 25° C., allowed to stand still, and clearly separated after 24 hours. Component (C) does not include any component that separates without being dissolved or (homogeneously) dispersed when mixed with the mixture of components (A) and (B) at 80°C.
  • the component (C) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, and one or two or more thereof can be used. From the viewpoint of makeup durability (for example, secondary adhesion resistance effect (good color retention)), silicone oils are preferred, and silicone oils that are liquid at 25°C are more preferred.
  • “liquid” means a silicone oil having fluidity at 25° C., and is not particularly limited as long as it is used for cosmetics and the like.
  • phenyl-modified silicones such as trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone; and fluorine-modified silicones such as trifluoropropylcyclopolysiloxane.
  • the component (C) is, in particular, phenyl-modified silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, and viscosity at 25 ° C.
  • the component (C) is more preferably a phenyl-modified silicone from the standpoint of cosmetic persistence, and at least one selected from the group consisting of diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone.
  • diphenyl dimethicone diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
  • a combination of diphenyl dimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone or A combination of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone is particularly preferred.
  • a preferred embodiment of the present invention is an oily cosmetic containing component (A), component (B) and phenyl-modified silicone.
  • component (C) Commercially available products of component (C) are not particularly limited, but KF-96A-1000CS, KF-96-5000CS, KF-96-10,000CS, KF-96-100,000CS, KF-56, KF-54 , KF-54HV, FL-100-100CS, FL-100-450CS, FL-100-1000CS, FL-100-10000CS (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), BELSIL (registered trademark) PDM 1000 (Asahi Kasei Wacker Silicone Co., Ltd. (manufactured by Dow Corning Toray), FZ-3156 (manufactured by Dow Corning Toray), and the like.
  • component (C) (the total content when two or more are used) is not particularly limited, but stability, makeup durability (for example, secondary adhesion resistance effect (good color retention)), adhesion 10 to 50%, more preferably 20 to 40%, of the total oil-based cosmetic is preferred from the viewpoint of improving properties.
  • the total content of component (B) and component (C) is not particularly limited, but the lower limit to the entire oily cosmetic is preferably 45% or more from the viewpoints of adhesion and makeup durability. 50% or more is more preferred, 55% or more is even more preferred, and 65% or more is even more preferred.
  • the upper limit is preferably 95% or less, more preferably 90% or less. Within this range, the effect of preventing secondary adhesion (for example, resistance to color transfer), stability, and close contact are more excellent, which is more preferable.
  • the total content of component (B) and component (C) is preferably 45% or more (upper limit of 100%) in the oil component from the viewpoint of adhesion feeling and makeup durability. 50% or more is preferable, 55% or more is preferable, and 65% or more is more preferable.
  • the upper limit of the total content of component (B) and component (C) in the oily component is 100%, but other oily components may be added in order to adjust the feel, and is usually 95%. It may be below.
  • component (D) wax and/or an oily gelling agent from the viewpoint of adhesion feeling and formulation stability.
  • Component (D) is commonly used in cosmetics, and is not particularly limited as long as it can solidify or gel the oily component. can be blended alone or in combination of two or more.
  • oily gelling agents examples include dextrin fatty acid esters (e.g., dextrin palmitate, (palmitic acid/2-ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin, myristate dextrin, etc.), sucrose fatty acid esters, inulin fatty acid esters, and 12-hydroxystearic acid.
  • dextrin fatty acid esters e.g., dextrin palmitate, (palmitic acid/2-ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin, myristate dextrin, etc.
  • sucrose fatty acid esters e.g., inulin fatty acid esters, and 12-hydroxystearic acid.
  • metal soap fumed silicic anhydride, (behenic acid/eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (vinyl dimethicone/alkyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, ( Dimethicone/PEG) crosspolymers, silicone crosspolymers such as (alkyldimethicone/PEG) crosspolymers, organically modified clay minerals such as stearalkonium hectorite and distearyldimonium hectorite, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutylethylhexanoyl Examples include amino acid-based gelling agents such as glutamide.
  • waxes examples include hydrocarbon waxes such as paraffin wax, ceresin wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, polyethylene wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax, candelilla wax (candelilla wax), and candelilla wax esters. , carnauba wax (carnauba wax), beeswax, rice wax, sunflower wax, and ester waxes such as jojoba ester.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as paraffin wax, ceresin wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, polyethylene wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax
  • candelilla wax candelilla wax
  • candelilla wax esters examples include carnauba wax (carnauba wax), beeswax, rice wax, sunflower wax, and ester waxes such as jojoba ester.
  • hydrocarbon wax in the component (D) in an amount of 50% or more (upper limit of 100%) in terms of shape retention of the oil-based cosmetic, more preferably 50 to 90%. More preferably 65 to 90%. Further, a hydrocarbon wax having a melting point of 80° C. or higher (preferably 80 to 100° C.) is more preferable in terms of shape retention of the oil-based cosmetic.
  • the oil-based cosmetic is in the form of a paste or liquid
  • an oil-based gelling agent as the component (D) in terms of obtaining a smooth feel and improved usability.
  • a form in which an oil-based gelling agent and fumed silicic anhydride are used in combination as component (D) is also preferable from the viewpoint of improving adhesion and formulation stability.
  • the component (D) is fumed silicic anhydride. Further, it is more preferable to use fumed silicic anhydride with a lower limit of 0.5% or more and an upper limit of 50% or less in terms of improved stability.
  • the content of the entire hydrophobized fumed silicic anhydride is defined as the content of the fumed silicic anhydride.
  • the fumed silicic anhydride may be hydrophobized.
  • Hydrophobic treatment methods include dimethylsilylation treatment with dimethyldichlorosilane, trimethylsilylation treatment with trimethylchlorosilane or hexamethyldisilazane, octylsilylation treatment with octyltrichlorosilane, and dimethylpolysiloxane or methylhydrogenpolysiloxane.
  • Examples include silicone treatment and coating treatment with a metal soap compound.
  • the hydrophobization treatment is preferably dimethylsilylation treatment from the viewpoint of improving stability.
  • Hydrophobized fumed silicic anhydride includes AEROSIL R104, AEROSIL R106, AEROSIL R202, AEROSIL RX200, AEROSIL RX300, AEROSIL R805, AEROSIL R812, AEROSIL R816, AEROSIL R972, AEROSIL R974, AEROSIL R5 R976S company) and the like.
  • the content of component (D) (the total content when two or more are used) is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.5% or more, more preferably 1% or more, relative to the entire oily cosmetic. , more preferably 5% or more.
  • the upper limit is preferably 30% or less, preferably 20% or less, and more preferably 15% or less. Within this range, usability, stability, and durability of the cosmetic film (for example, secondary adhesion resistance effect (good color retention)) can be further improved, which is more preferable.
  • the present invention provides optional components other than the components (A) to (D), that is, the components (A) to (D), as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
  • Other commonly known ingredients such as oily ingredients, surfactants, powders, aqueous ingredients, UV absorbers, moisturizing agents, antioxidants, cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, pigments, and perfumes may be contained.
  • Colored pigments include white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and barium sulfate; inorganic red pigments such as red iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron hydroxide and iron titanate; Brown pigments, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher, inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide and carbon black, inorganic purple pigments such as manganese violet and cobalt violet, chromium hydroxide, chromium oxide, cobalt oxide, titanium Inorganic green pigments such as acid cobalt, inorganic blue pigments such as Prussian blue and ultramarine, Red No.
  • white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and barium sulfate
  • inorganic red pigments such as red iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron hydroxide and iron titanate
  • Brown pigments inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher
  • inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide and carbon black
  • the content of the colored pigments is appropriately set in consideration of the coloring effect and the like, but is preferably 0.01 to 30% of the total oily cosmetic composition.
  • Oily components other than components (A) to (D) are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in the field of cosmetics, and include solid, semi-solid and liquid oils, animal oils, vegetable oils and mineral oils. , synthetic oils can be used.
  • the surfactant is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in the field of cosmetics such as ionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants.
  • the powder As long as it is a powder that is generally used in cosmetics, it has a shape such as spherical, plate-like, needle-like, etc.; There are no particular restrictions on the structure or the like, and examples include inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, composite powders, and the like. Specific examples include white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and barium sulfate, iron oxide, titanium/titanium oxide sintered products, colored inorganic pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, Prussian blue and ultramarine blue.
  • muscovite phlogopite
  • red mica biotite
  • synthetic mica sericite
  • synthetic sericite kaolin
  • silicon carbide bentonite
  • smectite silicic anhydride
  • aluminum oxide magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide
  • silicon Soil aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum metasilicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, etc.
  • White powder titanium dioxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated Bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide mica titanium, Prussian blue treated mica titanium, carmine treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, bright powder such as fish scale foil, polyamide resin, polyethylene resin, polyacrylic resin, polyester resin, fluorine resins, cellulose resins, polystyrene resins, copolymer resins such as styrene-acrylic copolymer resins, organic polymer resin powders such as polypropylene resins and urethane resins, organic low-molecular weight resins such as zinc stearate and N-acyl lysine Powder, silk powder, natural organic powder such as cellulose powder, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No.
  • Organic pigment powders such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lakes, Metal powders such as aluminum powder, gold powder, and silver powder, composite powder nylon such as fine particle titanium oxide-coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide, Fibers such as polyester, rayon, cellulose, and the like are included. These may be surface-treated with fluorine compounds, silicone oils, powders, oils, gelling agents, emulsion polymers, surfactants and the like. These powders may be used singly or in combination of two or more, and may also be combined.
  • Aqueous components include water, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, polyhydric alcohols such as sorbitol and maltitol, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium alginate, polyvinyl alcohol, and polyvinyl.
  • water-soluble polymers such as pyrrolidone, viscous substances such as resins, and the like, and are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics.
  • Moisturizers include, for example, proteins, mucopolysaccharides, collagen, elastin, keratin, and the like.
  • antioxidants include tocopherol, ascorbic acid, etc.
  • cosmetic ingredients include vitamins, antiphlogistic agents, herbal medicines, etc.
  • antiseptics include paraoxybenzoic acid esters, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentadiol, etc. .
  • ultraviolet absorbers examples include anthranyl-based, dibenzoylmethane-based such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyldibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl 4-methoxycinnamate, and the like.
  • cinnamic acid series salicylic acid series such as ethylhexyl salicylate, camphor series, benzophenone series such as benzophenone-3, triazine series such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine and ethylhexyl triazone, benzotriazole, benzalmalonate series, Examples include benzimidazole-based, bis-benzoazolyl-based, p-aminobenzoic acid-based, diphenylacrylate-based such as octocrelin, and urocanic acid-based agents.
  • Oil-based cosmetics of the present invention include lip cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip treatment, lip balm, lip base, and lipstick overcoat, as well as eye colors, eyebrows, mascara, eyeliners, cheeks, sunscreens, concealers, Foundations, bases, face colors, body oils, hair oils, etc. can be mentioned, but since visual effects such as color transfer suppression and color retention are particularly exhibited, makeup cosmetics are preferred, and the cosmetic film is flexible. It can be more preferably used in lip cosmetics in terms of durability and long-lasting effect.
  • the oil-based cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition having an outer layer as a continuous phase of an oil agent, and has a water content of 1% or less, more preferably 0.5% or less, and substantially contains water. It is preferable that there be none, in terms of exhibiting the effects of the present invention.
  • the term "substantially free of water” means that the content of water in the level of impurities is allowed. It is preferably 0.01% by mass or less, more preferably 0% by mass.
  • component (A) polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate and component (B) glycerin have a degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of ester substitution is 80. % or more of polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and improve the longevity of oily cosmetics by the effect of phase separation when reacting with moisture on the skin or lips after application.
  • Examples 1-15 and Comparative Examples 1-6 Lip cosmetics (solid) Evaluation 1: (a) a mixture of component A and component B dissolved or dispersed at 80° C. without separation (b) Separation and gelation when 5 parts by weight of water is added to 95 parts by weight of a mixture of components A and B at room temperature, and evaluation 2: (a) no burden, (b ) moisturizing feeling, (c) close contact feeling, (d) color durability, and (e) stability were evaluated. The results are also shown in Tables 1 and 2.
  • evaluation method for evaluation 1 For the following evaluation items (a) and (b), a mixture of components (A) and (B) was heated to 80° C. for each sample, and whether it dissolved or dispersed was visually evaluated. Furthermore, when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of a mixture of components (A) and (B) at room temperature, a test was conducted to see if the oil separated and gelled. Judgment was made according to the following floor judgment criteria.
  • ⁇ Evaluation items> (a) whether the mixture of component A and component B dissolves or disperses without separation at 80° C. (b) 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of component (A) and component (B) at room temperature Whether the oil separates and gels when it is applied ⁇ (a) criteria> ⁇ : The entire system is transparent or cloudy ⁇ : A precipitate is confirmed ⁇ (b) Criteria> ⁇ : A transparent upper layer and a gel layer were visually observed in the lower layer. ⁇ : A slightly transparent upper layer and a slight gel layer were observed in the lower layer. ⁇ : No separation was observed, and the entire system was uniform.
  • evaluation method for evaluation 2 For the following evaluation items (a) to (d), each sample was subjected to a use test by a panel of 20 cosmetics evaluation specialists. Each panelist applied each sample to the lips, gave a score according to the following absolute evaluation criteria, calculated the total score of all the panelists, and made a judgment according to the following evaluation criteria.
  • Evaluation items (a) and (c) were evaluated immediately after application, and evaluation items (b) and (d) were evaluated 6 hours after the sample was applied to the lips and the panel was allowed to lead a normal life. did.
  • evaluation item (e) uniformity (formulation non-uniformity) was evaluated 1 hour after filling the container.
  • ⁇ Evaluation items> (a) Absence of feeling of burden (whether the cosmetic film does not feel like it is shrinking and feels burdensome, whether it feels like it is being pulled on the lips and whether it feels dry) (b) Moisturizing feeling (c) Adhesion feeling (d) Color retention (good color retention and resistance to color transfer, makeup durability) (e) Stability ⁇ absolute criteria> (Rating): (Evaluation) 4 points: Very good 3 points: Good 2 points: Somewhat bad 1 point: Bad ⁇ judgment criteria> (Judgment): (Average score) ⁇ : 3.25 points or more ⁇ : 2.5 points or more and less than 3.25 points ⁇ : 1.75 points or more and less than 2.5 points ⁇ : less than 1.75 points.
  • Examples 1 to 15 of the present invention were excellent in all evaluation items such as no burden feeling, moisturizing feeling, close contact feeling, color retention, and stability. .
  • Comparative Examples 1 and 6 which did not contain the component (A)
  • the effect was insufficient, with no adhesion feeling and color durability being obtained.
  • Comparative Examples 2 and 3 containing polyglycerin fatty acid esters having a degree of ester substitution of 80% or less instead of component (B) adhesion and color retention effects were not obtained, and in Comparative Examples 4 and 5, color retention effects were not obtained. was inferior.
  • Examples 16-20 and Comparative Examples 7-10 Lip cosmetics (liquid rouge)
  • the lip cosmetics obtained by the composition and manufacturing method shown in Table 3 were evaluated by the following methods: (a) whether the mixture of component A and component B dissolved or dispersed at 80°C without separation; (b) Separation and gelation when 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of a mixture of components A and B at room temperature, and evaluation 2: (a) no burden, (b) moisturizing feeling , (c) adhesion feeling, (d) color durability, and (e) stability were evaluated. This result is also shown in Table 3.
  • Comparative Example 8 containing a polyglycerol fatty acid ester having a degree of ester substitution of 80% or less instead of component (B), 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of a mixture of component (A) and component (B) at room temperature. Separation and gelation were not confirmed at the time of application.
  • Examples 16 to 20 of the present invention were excellent in all evaluation items such as no burden feeling, moisturizing feeling, close contact feeling, color retention, and stability.
  • Comparative Example 7 containing no component (A) Comparative Example 9 in which polyglyceryl diisostearate was added instead of component (A), and Comparative Example in which polyglyceryl triisostearate-10 was added instead of component (A) With No. 10, the effect was insufficient, with no feeling of close contact and no color retention.
  • Comparative Example 8 in which a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a degree of ester substitution of 80% or less was used instead of the component (B), the color retention effect was not obtained and the effect was insufficient.
  • dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl) 5 9.
  • Diisostearyl malate Remainder 10.
  • Nylon powder 5 11.
  • Dimethylsilylated silica *8 (component (D), fumed silicic anhydride) 1 14.1,3-butylene glycol 0.5 15. Red No. 202 0.2 16.
  • Titanium dioxide 1 18. Black iron oxide 0.01 19. Titanium oxide coated borosilicate (Ca/Al) *9 5 20.
  • B Components (10) to (23) were added to A and mixed uniformly.
  • Example 21 The eye color of Example 21 was satisfactory in terms of no burden, moisturizing feeling, close contact feeling, color longevity and stability.
  • the mixture of component (A) and component (B) dissolves or disperses without separation at 80° C., and separates and gels when 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture at room temperature. showed that.
  • Total amount of component (A) and component (B): 42%, total amount of component (B) and component (C): 52%, (A)/(B) 0.31.
  • Diglyceryl triisostearate 2 10. Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane *12 (component (C)) 20 11. Phenoxyethanol 0.3 12.1,2-pentylene glycol 0.2 13. Fumed silicic anhydride *13 (Component (D)) 2 14. zinc oxide 1 15. Nylon-12 *14 5 16. Polymethyl methacrylate *15 10 17. Mica Remaining amount 18. 3% perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane treated titanium mica 5 19. 3% perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane treated iron oxide coated mica titanium 2 20. Red iron oxide treated with 2% triethoxycaprylylsilane 0.01 21.
  • B Components (10) to (24) were added to A and mixed uniformly.
  • C After defoaming B, component (25) was added and mixed uniformly.
  • Example 22 The blush of Example 22 was satisfactory in terms of no burden, moisturizing feeling, close-fitting feeling, color retention, and stability.
  • the mixture of component (A) and component (B) dissolves or disperses without separation at 80° C., and separates and gels when 5% by mass of water is added to 95% by mass of the mixture at room temperature. showed that.
  • Total amount of component (A) and component (B): 26%, total amount of component (B) and component (C): 41%, (A)/(B) 0.24.
  • the oil-based lip gloss of Example 23 was satisfactory in all respects of feeling of no burden, feeling of moisturizing, feeling of adhesion, color retention, and stability.
  • the mixture of component (A) and component (B) dissolves or disperses without separation at 80° C., and separates and gels when 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture at room temperature. showed that.
  • Total amount of component (A) and component (B): 28%, total amount of component (B) and component (C): 26%, (A)/(B) 0.4.
  • the oil-based solid eyebrow of Example 24 was satisfactory in all respects of no burden, moisturizing feeling, close-fitting feeling, color durability, and stability.
  • the mixture of component (A) and component (B) dissolves or disperses without separation at 80° C., and separates and gels when 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture at room temperature. showed that.
  • Total amount of component (A) and component (B): 29%, total amount of component (B) and component (C): 50%, (A)/(B) 0.45.

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2001122738A (ja) * 1999-10-20 2001-05-08 Lion Corp 毛髪化粧料
WO2005039516A1 (ja) * 2003-10-15 2005-05-06 Kose Corporation 油性固形化粧料
JP2011140479A (ja) * 2009-12-11 2011-07-21 Shiseido Co Ltd 唇用化粧料

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JP2012149041A (ja) 2010-12-28 2012-08-09 Kao Corp 口唇化粧料
JP7089386B2 (ja) 2018-03-26 2022-06-22 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 皮膚外用組成物
JP2021063068A (ja) 2019-10-15 2021-04-22 阪本薬品工業株式会社 化粧料用油剤、及びそれを含有する化粧料又は皮膚外用剤

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2001122738A (ja) * 1999-10-20 2001-05-08 Lion Corp 毛髪化粧料
WO2005039516A1 (ja) * 2003-10-15 2005-05-06 Kose Corporation 油性固形化粧料
JP2011140479A (ja) * 2009-12-11 2011-07-21 Shiseido Co Ltd 唇用化粧料

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Title
DATABASE GNPD MINTEL; 8 August 2005 (2005-08-08), "Lipstick Fantasist (RO681)", XP093016088, Database accession no. 385888 *

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