WO2022220175A1 - タオル地及びその製造方法 - Google Patents
タオル地及びその製造方法 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2022220175A1 WO2022220175A1 PCT/JP2022/017080 JP2022017080W WO2022220175A1 WO 2022220175 A1 WO2022220175 A1 WO 2022220175A1 JP 2022017080 W JP2022017080 W JP 2022017080W WO 2022220175 A1 WO2022220175 A1 WO 2022220175A1
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Images
Classifications
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- D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
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- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
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- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
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- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
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- D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
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- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
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- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
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- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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Definitions
- the present invention relates to a terry cloth and a method for manufacturing the same, and more particularly to a terry cloth that is bulky, has a soft texture, does not easily lose fluff, and has excellent water absorbency, and a method for manufacturing the same.
- water absorption is one of the major features of cotton towels, but for example, when you sweat or wipe off the water with a towel after taking a bath, the water may not be wiped off sufficiently. This tendency is especially seen in terry cloth that is thin and has a flat texture without bulk. This is due to the fact that towels are poor in wiping water absorption functionality, i.e., quickly absorb a large amount of water on the skin, and this is a problem that should be improved.
- Patent Document 3 In order to reduce costs, it has been proposed to process the spun yarn by sizing a single yarn of the spun yarn without using this water-soluble yarn, drying it, and then untwisting it in the opposite direction of the spun yarn.
- Patent Document 4 Furthermore, in order to obtain a knitted fabric with a beautiful weave, a hard-twisted textured yarn of a synthetic fiber in which S twist and Z twist are alternately fused along the yarn axis in one single yarn. has been proposed (Patent Document 4). Furthermore, in order to obtain crisp texture, a thermoplastic synthetic multifilament yarn is false-twisted and crimped in the opposite direction to the single yarn of the spun yarn of natural fibers or synthetic fibers. Then, the false twisted yarn and the spun yarn are combined to create a cross-twisted yarn that is twisted in the same direction as the single spun yarn (Patent Document 5).
- Non-Patent Document 1 In contrast to ring-spun yarn that is widely used in the past to make a single yarn by twisting one cotton roving yarn, one roving yarn and one roving yarn are arranged in parallel, and these two yarns are spun. There is a fine spun twisted yarn (silo spun) that is made by combining and twisting to make a single yarn. It has been introduced that fine-spun twisted yarn has higher strength and elongation than ring-spun yarn, so that warp yarn breakage does not occur and weaving properties can be improved (Non-Patent Document 1).
- Patent Documents 1 and 2 the technique of plying, dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn twisted in the opposite direction to the twist direction of the hard-twisted yarn in Patent Documents 1 and 2 is a dissolution removal step of the water-soluble yarn and a dissolution disposal step of the solution. resulting in high manufacturing costs. In particular, the disposal cost of the dissolution liquid is too large to be ignored.
- Patent Document 3 the single yarn is untwisted after sizing, so the sizing step causes high manufacturing costs.
- Patent Document 4 the S and Z twists are alternately fused in the longitudinal direction of one yarn, so the fusion process results in high manufacturing costs.
- Patent Document 5 a spun yarn single yarn and a thermoplastic synthetic multifilament yarn are false twisted and crimped in the opposite direction to the spun yarn single yarn, but the process is complicated and the production cost is high.
- the spun fused twisted yarn introduced in Non-Patent Document 1 is hard and rigid, has a strong tightness, and lacks a feeling of swelling, so even if it is used as it is for the pile yarn of towels, it cannot provide a bulky and fluffy texture. . If the number of twists in the spun plied yarn is reduced in order to develop bulges, bulges are developed to some extent, but a large number of long fluffs are generated and fluffing of the product cannot be improved.
- An object of the present invention is to solve the above problems and to provide a terry cloth that has a bulky and soft texture, does not easily lose fluff, and has excellent water absorbency, and a method for producing the same.
- the terry cloth according to one aspect of the present invention includes: A toweling fabric in which pile yarns are anchored in a ground structure in which warp ground yarns and weft ground yarns intersect, At least one of the warp base yarn, the weft base yarn, and the pile yarn is formed of spun and twisted yarn, In the spun and twisted yarn, two or more roving yarns are twisted in the primary twist direction as a single yarn, and one of the roving yarns has a uniform twist, and at least one of the other roving yarns has a uniform twist.
- the spun and plied twisted yarn which has a part of the real twist with irregular strand length and twisting angle, is opened and swollen.
- the spun, plied and twisted yarn has a large number of highly entangled portions at the irregular real twist locations, and the spun, plied, and twisted yarn is expressed from the highly entangled portions on the surface of the spun, plied, and twisted yarn. It is preferable to have fine fluff. As a result, the fine fluff is pulled out from the portion where the threads are strongly entangled, so that the terry cloth is provided with fluff-shedding resistance, and the fluff-shedding property can be remarkably improved.
- the spun, plied and twisted yarn is untwisted in the opposite direction in a range of 5 to 80% of the number of ply twists.
- the terry cloth can have a puffy texture and is preferable in terms of water absorbency as compared with the case without this structure.
- the spun, plied, and twisted yarn has a cotton blend ratio of 40% by weight or more and less than 60% by weight of synthetic fibers.
- the quick-drying property and dimensional stability of the synthetic fiber can be imparted in a well-balanced manner while maintaining the water absorption and hygroscopicity of the cotton.
- the yarn count of the spun, plied and twisted yarn is preferably No. 5 to No. 300. As a result, compared to the case without this configuration, it is possible to cope with thick terry cloth and thin terry cloth.
- the terry cloth has a basis weight of 80 to 1000 g/m 2 .
- the characteristics of the present invention such as a puffy texture, fluff-removing performance, and water absorbency, can be exhibited in terry cloth for various uses, as compared to the case without this configuration.
- a method for manufacturing a terry cloth according to one aspect of the present invention includes: A terry cloth in which pile yarns are anchored in a ground structure in which warp base yarns and weft base yarns intersect, wherein at least one of the warp base yarns, the weft base yarns, and the pile yarns is a spun, plied, and twisted yarn.
- the spun and twisted yarn is A step of aligning two or more roving yarns in the same direction and twisting them into a single yarn to form a fine-spun twisted yarn; a step of ply-twisting and untwisting the spun plied yarn in a direction opposite to the first twisting direction to form a spun plied and twisted textured yarn; Manufactured in a process comprising
- the spun, plied and twisted textured yarn it is preferable to rub the spun, plied, twisted yarn at the same time as untwisting the spun, plied, twisted yarn.
- untwisting and rubbing can be carried out in one step, so that a puffy texture, water absorbency, and fluff-removing performance can be achieved at a low manufacturing cost.
- the spun, plied and twisted yarn is preferably untwisted at a rotation speed of 5 to 80% of the initial twist.
- a terry cloth that has a bulky and soft texture, is resistant to fluffing, and has excellent water absorbency, and a method for producing the same.
- FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a cross-sectional structure of a towel cloth according to an embodiment of the present invention
- FIG. 2A is an enlarged photograph of a single spun and twisted yarn of Example 1
- FIG. 2B is an enlarged photograph of a single spun and twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1.
- 2C shows an enlarged photograph of the spun plied twisted single yarn of Comparative Example 2.
- FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing the cross-sectional structure of the towel cloth according to this embodiment.
- the terry cloth is constructed by intersecting pile yarns 1a and 1b in a ground structure in which warp yarns 2a and 2b and weft yarns 3 intersect.
- the upper side of FIG. 1 is the front side of the terry cloth (or ground texture)
- 1a is the front pile yarn
- 1b is the back pile yarn.
- spun and twisted yarns obtained by untwisting the spun and twisted yarns described below are used for the pile yarns 1a and 1b.
- the spun plied yarn used for the pile yarns 1a and 1b is formed by twisting two roving yarns such as cotton arranged in parallel as a single yarn in the first twist direction. At this time, one of the roving yarns is uniformly twisted, but the other roving yarn varies in strand length and twisting angle, and the resulting spun yarn is two-ply yarn with a slight real twist here and there. It becomes a single yarn in a state like For this reason, the spun plied yarn has an distorted twist structure in which a number of irregular twists and strongly entangled portions are present in the single yarn.
- the spun plied yarn according to the present embodiment is prepared by arranging two or more rovings into a single yarn and pre-twisting them. As described above, the spun plied yarn is preferably prepared by aligning two roving yarns in parallel and plying them into a single yarn. If both of the roving yarns to be pulled are made of cotton, the terry cloth using this will have the unique dry feel of cotton and will be excellent in water absorbency and hygroscopicity.
- One roving yarn of cotton and one synthetic fiber yarn of long fibers or short fibers such as polyester or polyamide may be spun and twisted to form a single yarn.
- the spun plied twisted yarn is untwisted while rubbing the spun plied twisted yarn with a rubber belt to develop finely raised fluff on the surface of the yarn and at the same time physically open the yarn.
- the warp is expanded to form a spun plied and twisted yarn.
- the developed fine fluff is pulled out from the strongly entangled portion of the yarn and raised, and the spun, plied and twisted yarn has fluff-shedding resistance and significantly improves fluff-shedding property.
- the untwisted yarns are opened and swelled, so that a high bulkiness and a soft texture can be obtained.
- the spun plied and twisted yarn according to the present embodiment is a single yarn of a spun plied twisted yarn obtained by ply twisting two or more rovings in the ply twisting direction, and ply twisting in the direction opposite to the ply twisting direction to untwist. do.
- the untwisting rate at this time is preferably in the range of 5 to 80% of the number of rotations of the first twist, from the viewpoints of puffy texture, fluff removal property, and water absorbency. Furthermore, those in the range of 10 to 65% are particularly preferred. If the amount is less than 5%, the texture and water absorbency are poor, and if the amount exceeds 80%, the entanglement is weakened, causing fluff removal and yarn breakage.
- the yarn count of the spun and twisted yarn is preferably from 5 to 300 because it can be used for thick terry cloth and thin cloth. No. 16 to No. 100 is preferable for obtaining a particularly bulging and repulsive texture.
- the terry cloth according to the present embodiment has a basis weight in the range of 80 to 1000 g/m 2 because it can exhibit the features of the present embodiment, such as a puffy texture, fluff-removing performance, and water absorbency.
- more specific examples of terry cloth basis weight are as follows. Those of m 2 are preferred. A thickness of less than 100 g/m 2 is thin and bulky, and a thickness of more than 1000 g/m 2 is too thick and heavy.
- the terry cloth according to the present embodiment is a terry cloth in which pile yarns are anchored in a ground structure in which warp base yarns and weft base yarns intersect.
- a manufacturing comprising a step of twisting, a step of ply-twisting and untwisting a single yarn in the direction opposite to the primary twisting direction to form a spun plied twisted yarn, and a step of locking the pile yarn to the ground structure. manufactured by the method. Each step will be described in order below.
- the spun plied and twisted yarn forming step the spun plied yarn formed by preliminary twisting is untwisted in the opposite direction in the range of 5 to 80% using a rotating device.
- the rotating tool used for this untwisting is not particularly limited, but it has a surface made of a material that has a high frictional force with the yarn, and the yarn can be brought into close contact with the yarn without slipping and untwisted precisely. , rotating belts, rotating rings, rotating rolls and the like are preferred.
- Rubber, polyurethane resin, silicone resin, or the like is preferable as the material of the contact portion.
- a rubber rotating belt is particularly preferable because of its versatility, durability, and the like.
- the specific untwisting method at this time is to bring a rotating belt in close contact with the running spun plied twisted yarn (to the belly of the yarn), and rub the rotating belt in the opposite direction to the first twisting direction.
- the plied yarn is untwisted to obtain a spun plied and twisted yarn.
- the spun, plied, and twisted yarn develops fine fluff due to rubbing and bulges due to opening.
- the terry cloth of the present embodiment has a bulky and soft texture, improved fluff removal, and excellent water absorbency.
- a method of continuously performing the ply twisting process and the untwisting process in one process by connecting the ply twisting process and the untwisting process is effective in terms of processing efficiency and yarn quality. Especially preferred from the viewpoint of stability.
- the obtained spun and twisted yarn is used as a pile yarn, which is engaged with the ground texture in which the warp base yarn and the weft base yarn intersect, and is woven into a terry cloth.
- the spun, plied and twisted yarn can be applied to either one of the warp base yarn and the weft base yarn, or both of them.
- weaving is performed by appropriately designing the pile length, vertical density, horizontal density, basis weight, etc. according to the desired use of the towel. Quick-drying and water absorbency are not determined by basis weight, but are rate-controlled by the ratio of synthetic fibers and cotton.
- the blend ratio of the pile yarn of the spun, twisted, and twisted yarn and the synthetic fiber of the base yarn are increased.
- the drainability is improved and the quick drying property is improved.
- synthetic fibers do not absorb water, but cotton absorbs water.
- the woven terry fabric fabric is dyed.
- the dyeing process follows the normal process for cotton towels: desizing, alkali scouring, hydrogen peroxide bleaching, dyeing with reactive dyes, and setting with a pin tenter for finishing. When finishing with a white background, the dyeing process is skipped, and the finishing is done by scouring, bleaching, and setting.
- the synthetic fiber is mixed with cotton, if the synthetic fiber is polyester, it is dyed with a disperse dye at 130°C, and then the cotton side is dyed with a reactive dye at 80°C. In the case of a nylon blend, it is dyed with an acid dye, then cotton is dyed, and each is set and finished.
- the synthetic fibers When such synthetic fibers are mixed with cotton, the synthetic fibers are dyed with a disperse dye, and the cotton is dyed with a reactive dye, so that dyeing is performed in two dyeing processes.
- a disperse dye When such synthetic fibers are mixed with cotton, the synthetic fibers are dyed with a disperse dye, and the cotton is dyed with a reactive dye, so that dyeing is performed in two dyeing processes.
- a disperse dyes and reactive dyes we use the same color dyeing to make the colors of disperse dyes and reactive dyes the same, different color dyeing to dye them as completely different colors, and dark and light dyeing (chambray) to develop colors with the intention of similar color differences. Choose accordingly.
- the water absorbency of terry cloth is the ability of the terry cloth to wipe off moisture after taking a bath, etc., and was evaluated according to the modified Larose test method of JIS L-1907.
- the outline of the test is to express the sum of the water absorption speed and the amount of water absorbed by applying a load to the towel as a water absorption index.
- a terry cloth with a higher index is better because it quickly absorbs water on the skin and absorbs a large amount of water.
- the indices are as follows: 700 or more: very good water absorption, less than 500: good, less than 300: normal, less than 100: poor. The measurement was performed at five locations and the average value was used. In addition, measurements were made on the finished towel cloth (before washing) and after washing.
- Example 1 Manufacturing method and evaluation method of terry cloth Processing of spun and twisted yarn
- roving yarn equivalent to No. 32 of cotton is placed one by one on the left and right.
- a spun twisted yarn of No. 16 single yarn was made (650 turns/m, Z twist).
- the under-twisted single yarn was twisted S-twisted (right-twisted) in the opposite direction to the single yarn with a rubber belt at 150 turns/m, and untwisted while being rubbed (untwisted rate: 23%).
- an untwisted 500 turns/m, Z-twisted No. 16 single yarn was obtained.
- FIG. 2 is an enlarged photograph of the yarn single yarn of the example, and FIG.
- FIG. 2A shows an enlarged photograph of the untwisted fine-spun twisted yarn single yarn of Example 1.
- FIG. 2A shows that a spun plied yarn single yarn that is first twisted with a Z twist of 650 times / m is untwisted by twisting it with an S twist (right twist) in the opposite direction to the single yarn with a twist of 150 times / m.
- S twist right twist
- the untwisted 16th single yarn spun and twisted processed yarn is used for the front and back pile yarns of the fabric
- the warp ground yarn is the ring spun yarn 16 single yarn
- the weft ground yarn is the ring.
- a 100% cotton terry cloth was woven with a spun yarn No. 20 single yarn and a pile yarn held in such a ground structure with a warp density of 60/inch and a weft density of 42 yarns/inch.
- This woven greige fabric was desized, scoured, bleached, set, and finished with a white background according to the usual cotton processing methods.
- the finished terry cloth had a thickness of 4.45 mm and a basis weight of 422 g/m 2 .
- the finished terry cloth was evaluated in accordance with the evaluation methods described above in terms of bulkiness of the terry cloth, physical quantity of fluffy texture, ease of fluff removal, and water absorbency. Table 1 shows the evaluation results.
- FIG. 2B is an enlarged photograph of a finely spun twisted yarn single yarn twisted at 650 turns/m with a Z-twist but not subsequently untwisted. From the photograph of the twisted yarn in FIG. 2B, the appearance of fluff and the yarn diameter of the fine-spun twisted yarn were measured and evaluated.
- the finished terry cloth had a thickness of 4.01 mm and a basis weight of 433 g/m 2 . Evaluation was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are also shown in Table 1.
- FIG. 2C shows an enlarged photograph of the untwisted spun twisted single yarn of Comparative Example 2.
- FIG. 2C is an enlarged photograph of a finely spun twisted yarn single yarn twisted with 500 turns/m in a Z-twist but not subsequently untwisted. From the photograph of the twisted yarn in FIG. 2C, the appearance of fluff and the yarn diameter of the finely spun twisted yarn were measured and evaluated.
- the finished terry cloth had a thickness of 3.96 mm and a basis weight of 444 g/m 2 . Evaluation was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are also shown in Table 1.
- Example 1 was a wonderful white terry cloth that had excellent dryness, had a soft texture, did not easily lose fluff, and had high water absorbency.
- the bulk height is 10.55 cm 3 /g, which is 14% to 18% higher than Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and the compression work is 5.80 gf. cm 2 , and increased by 1.5 to 1.6 times, respectively, confirming the high bulk and soft texture.
- the fluff removal rate in washing was 0.034%, which was 25% to 26% less fluff removal compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2.
- the wiping water absorption index before washing was 4.8 to 3.5 times that of the same comparative example, which was a good level of 500 or more. After washing, it was 1.4 to 1.2 times, which was a very excellent level of 700 or more, and the white towel exhibited high water absorbency. There were no particular problems in yarn processing, weaving, and finishing, and processing could be carried out smoothly.
- Example 2 Twisted Yarn Processing As a pile yarn, according to the method of Example 1, a spun twisted yarn of a single yarn of cotton No. 20 under-twisted in a Z twist of 580 times / m was made, and then this under-twisted single yarn was made into a single yarn. Using the same rubber belt as in Example 1, the S-twisting (right-hand twisting) in the opposite direction was applied with a ply twist of 155 turns/m to untwist (untwisting rate: 27%). As a result, untwisted 425 twists/m, Z-twisted No. 20 single yarn was obtained (580 twists/mZ ⁇ 155 twists/m, S untwisted ⁇ 425/mZ).
- this untwisted spun and plied twisted yarn of No. 20 single yarn is used for the front and back pile yarns of the fabric, and both the warp ground yarn and the weft ground yarn are the 16 single yarn of cotton ring spun yarn.
- the woven fabric was desized, scoured, bleached, dyed with a navy blue reactive dye at 80° C. for 40 minutes, and set to finish.
- the finished terry cloth had a thickness of 3.99 mm, a basis weight of 411 g/m 2 and a bulk height of 9.71 cm 3 /g.
- Example 3 As a comparison to Example 2, it was woven, dyed and finished according to Example 2, except that untwisted cotton No. 20 single yarn with Z twist of 580 turns/m was used for the pile yarn.
- the finished terry cloth had a thickness of 3.24 mm, a basis weight of 408 g/m 2 and a bulk height of 7.94 cm 3 /g.
- Example 2 has a bulk height of 9.71 cm 3 /g, which is 22% higher than that of Comparative Example 3. It had a certain texture. In addition, fluff shedding was less. As for the water absorption rate, one drop was simply dropped from a height of 10 cm using a hand-held dropper, and the water absorption rate was measured. As described above, the terry cloth was a dark blue terry cloth that was excellent in texture, fluff removal, and water absorbency. On the other hand, Comparative Example 3 was a conventional terry cloth with lower bulkiness than Example 2, and inferior in swollen feeling, fluff removal, and water absorption (water absorption speed: 2 seconds).
- Example 3 Twisted yarn processing As a pile yarn, 1 cotton roving yarn equivalent to No. 22 and polyester multifilament long fiber drawn yarn of 110 decitex, 48 filaments are arranged one by one on the left and right. 1050 times per 1 m of twist) to make a spun plied yarn of No. 16.6 single yarn (1050 times/m, Z twist). Subsequently, the under-twisted single yarn was continuously subjected to S-twisting (right-hand twisting) in the opposite direction to the single yarn with the rubber belt of Example 1, and was untwisted ( untwisting rate: 55%). As a result, untwisted 470 turns/m, Z-twisted No. 16.6 single yarn was obtained (1050 turns/mZ ⁇ 580 turns/m, S untwisted ⁇ 470/mZ). .
- the untwisted 16.6 single yarn spun and twisted processed yarn is used for the front and back pile yarns of the fabric, and the warp ground yarn is the 16 single yarn of cotton ring-spun yarn, and the weft yarn.
- No. 20 single yarn of ring-spun cotton yarn is used for the ground yarn, with a vertical density of 60/inch and a horizontal density of 42 yarns/inch.
- This woven raw fabric is desized, scoured and bleached, and the polyester side is dyed with a gray disperse dye at 130°C for 40 minutes, and then the cotton side is dyed with a black reactive dye at 80°C for 40 minutes. set and finished.
- the finished terry cloth had a thickness of 4.44 mm, a basis weight of 396 g/m 2 and a bulk height of 11.21 cm 3 /g.
- Example 4 As a comparison with Example 3, it was woven, dyed and finished according to Example 3, except that the untwisted cotton/polyester spun plied yarn was used at 1050 turns/m and Z-twist was used for the pile yarn.
- the finished terry cloth had a thickness of 3.64 mm, a basis weight of 417 g/m 2 and a bulk height of 8.73 cm 3 /g.
- Example 3 has a bulk height of 11.21 cm 3 /g, which is 28% higher than that of Comparative Example 4. It had a certain texture. In addition, fluff fell off little, and in the same simple water absorption rate evaluation as in Example 2, the water absorption was good in 1 second or less, and it had excellent functionality. In addition, it was a terry cloth dyed in shades of gray and black in chambray, which dries quickly in washing, has little shrinkage in washing, is excellent in dimensional stability, and is rich in color design. On the other hand, Comparative Example 4 was a terry cloth inferior to Example 3 in all of the properties of bulkiness, puffiness, fluff removal, and water absorbency (water absorption speed: 3 seconds).
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Abstract
Description
経糸地糸と緯糸地糸とが交差した地組織にパイル糸が係止されるタオル地であって、
前記経糸地糸と前記緯糸地糸と前記パイル糸のうち少なくとも一つは、精紡合撚加工糸で形成され、
前記精紡合撚加工糸は、2本以上の粗糸が単糸として下撚り方向に撚られた当該粗糸の1本が均斉な撚りを有し、且つ、当該粗糸の他の少なくとも1本がストランド長と撚り合わせ角が不規則な実撚りを部分的に有する精紡合撚糸が、開繊して膨らんでいる。
経糸地糸と緯糸地糸とが交差した地組織にパイル糸が係止されるタオル地であって、当該経糸地糸と当該緯糸地糸と当該パイル糸のうち少なくとも一つが精紡合撚加工糸で形成された、タオル地の製造方法において、
前記精紡合撚加工糸は、
2本以上の粗糸を同じ方向に引き揃えて単糸として下撚りして精紡合撚糸を形成する工程と、
前記精紡合撚糸を下撚り方向と逆方向に上撚りして解撚し、精紡合撚加工糸を形成する工程と、
を備える工程で製造される。
以下、本発明の一実施形態を、図面を用いて説明する。図1は、本実施形態に係るタオル地の断面構造を示す模式図である。タオル地は、図1に示すように、経糸地糸2a,2bと緯糸地糸3が交差した地組織に、パイル糸1a,1bが係止されて構成される。ここで、図1の上がタオル地(又は地組織)の表側であり、1aは表のパイル糸、1bは裏のパイル糸である。本実施形態では、パイル糸1a,1bに、以下に説明する精紡合撚糸を解撚加工した精紡合撚加工糸が用いられている。
パイル糸1a,1bで使用される精紡合撚糸は、平行に並べられた綿等の2本の粗糸が単糸として下撚り方向に下撚りをかけて形成される。このとき、一方の粗糸には均斉な撚りがかかるが、他方の粗糸はストランド長と撚り合わせ角が変動し、形成される精紡合撚糸はところどころに若干の実撚りがかかった双糸のような状態の単糸となる。このため、精紡合撚糸は、単糸の中に変則的な撚りと交絡の強い部分とが多数存在するいびつな撚り構造を有する。このいびつな撚り構造のために、従来の均斉な撚り構造を持つリング紡績糸の単糸に比して、精紡合撚糸は糸の強伸度が高くなり、製織時の糸切れが少なく、タテ糸を単糸で用いる織物ができるという長所を有する。一方、糸が硬く剛直で締り感が強く、膨らみ感に欠けるという欠点も有する。
本実施形態に係るタオル地は、経糸地糸と緯糸地糸とが交差した地組織にパイル糸が係止されるタオル地であって、2本の粗糸を同じ方向に引き揃えて単糸として下撚りする工程と、単糸を下撚り方向と逆方向に上撚りして解撚し、精紡合撚加工糸を形成する工程と、地組織にパイル糸を係止する工程と、を備える製造方法によって製造される。以下、各工程を順に説明する。
(1)タオルの地のパイルに用いた精紡合撚糸の評価
糸の毛羽の外観と糸の膨らみについて写真撮影した(マイクロスコープ、(株)キーエンス社製、50倍)。糸の太さは写真から糸の直径(mm)を測定した。糸の毛羽が短く、糸が太いものほど膨らみがあり、良好である。
カサ高性はタオル地1g当たりの体積で表し、次に示すカサ高度(cm3/g)で評価した。厚みはJIS L-1096法に従って測定した。値が大きいほどカサが高く、良好である。
カサ高度(cm3/g)=厚み(mm)/目付(g/m2)×1000
ふんわり感は圧縮仕事量に相関性があるので、圧縮仕事量を測定して評価した。タオル地を折りたたまずにフラットな状態で圧縮仕事量を計測する際は圧縮測定器:KES-FB3-A(カトーテック社製)を用い、タオル地を2つ折りにした状態で圧縮仕事量を計測する際は圧縮測定器:KES-G5(カトーテック社製)を用いた。そして、タオル地を一定の速度で圧縮させてその圧縮仕事量:WC=(gf.cm2)を求めた。生地に圧縮させた時の(エネルギー)で、値が大きいほどタオルがよく圧縮され、大きな膨らみ=ふんわり感が高く、良好である。測定は5箇所で行いその平均値を用いた。また、タオル地を1枚の場合と2枚折りの場合の2通りで測定した。
洗濯による毛羽落ちはJIS L-0217、103法に従って測定した。毛羽落ち率(%)は次式で求めた。値が小さいほど毛羽落ちが少なく、良好である。測定は5枚のタオル地で行いその平均値を用いた。
毛羽落ち率(%)=(洗濯後に脱落した毛羽の重さ(g1))/(洗濯前のタオルの重さ(g0))×100
タオル地の吸水性は、風呂上がり等でタオル地が水分をふき取る際の性能であり、JIS L-1907法の改良ラローズ試験法に従って評価した。試験の概要はタオルに荷重をかけてタオルに拡散する水分の吸水速度と吸収水分量の和を、定められた式で吸水指数として表す。指数が大なるものほど、皮膚についている水分を素早く、沢山の水分量を吸収するタオル地であり、良好である。指数の目安は、700以上:吸水性が非常に優れる、500未満:良好、300未満:普通、100未満:劣る、である。測定は5箇所で行いその平均値を用いた。また、タオル地の仕上げ品(洗濯前)と、洗濯後の2通りで測定した。
(1)タオル地の製造方法と評価方法
A.精紡合撚加工糸の加工
パイル糸として綿の32番相当の粗糸を1本ずつ左右に配置し、これを2本に合わせてZ方向(左撚り)に1mあたり、650回で下撚りし、16番単糸の精紡合撚糸を作った(650回/m、Z撚り)。続けて、この下撚りした単糸をゴム製ベルトで単糸とは逆方向のS撚り(右撚り)に150回/mの撚りで上撚りをかけて、擦過しながら解撚した(解撚率:23%)。その結果、解撚された500回/m、Z撚りの16番単糸の精紡合撚加工糸を得た。ここで、図2は、実施例の糸単糸の拡大写真であり、実施例1の解撚した精紡合撚加工糸単糸の拡大写真を図2Aに示す。図2Aは、650回/m、Z撚りで下撚りした精紡合撚糸単糸を、単糸とは逆方向のS撚り(右撚り)に150回/mの撚りで上撚りをかけて解撚した、即ち、500回/m、Z撚りの精紡合撚加工糸単糸の拡大写真である。図2Aの写真から、精紡合撚加工糸の毛羽の外観と糸の直径を測定、評価した。
次いでこの解撚した16番単糸の精紡合撚加工糸を織物の表、裏のパイル糸に用い、経糸地糸はリング紡績糸の16番単糸を、緯糸地糸はリング紡績糸の20番単糸を用い、パイル糸をかかる地組織で係止し、タテ密度60/吋、ヨコ密度42本/吋で綿100%のタオル地に製織した。この織り上がった生機を、綿加工の常法に従って、糊抜き、精練、漂白加工、セットして、白地で仕上げた。仕上げたタオル地は厚み4.45mm、目付422g/m2であった。仕上げたタオル地の評価は上述した評価方法に従って、タオル地のカサ高度、ふっくらとした風合いの物理量、毛羽の落ちやすさ、吸水性をそれぞれ評価した。評価結果を表1に示す。
16番単糸の600回/m、Z撚りの精紡合撚糸を作り、これを解撚加工せずに、このままパイル糸に用いた以外は実施例1に従って、製織、加工、仕上げた。比較例1の解撚しない精紡合撚糸単糸の拡大写真を図2Bに示す。図2Bは、650回/m、Z撚りで撚りをしたがその後に解撚をしない精紡合撚糸単糸の拡大写真である。図2Bの撚糸写真から、精紡合撚糸の毛羽の外観と糸の直径を測定、評価した。仕上げたタオル地の厚みは4.01mm、目付は433g/m2であった。評価は実施例1と同様の方法で実施した。結果を表1に併記する。
16番単糸の500回/m、Z撚りの精紡合撚糸を作り、これを解撚加工せずに、このままパイル糸に用いた以外は実施例1に従って、製織、加工、仕上げた。比較例2の解撚しない精紡合撚糸単糸の拡大写真を図2Cに示す。図2Cは、500回/m、Z撚りで撚りをしたがその後に解撚をしない精紡合撚糸単糸の拡大写真である。図2Cの撚糸写真から、精紡合撚糸の毛羽の外観と糸の直径を測定、評価した。仕上げたタオル地は厚み3.96mm、目付444g/m2であった。評価は実施例1と同様の方法で実施した。結果を表1に併記する。
A.精紡合撚糸の評価
実施例1の糸は図2Aで、毛羽は細かく、糸の太さは直径6.0mmであり、膨らみのある精紡合撚加工糸であった。一方、比較例1の図2Bの糸は、毛羽は殆どなく、糸の太さは直径5.0mmであり、膨らみのない、剛直な精紡合撚糸であった。また、比較例2の図2Cの糸は、糸の太さは直径7.5mmであり、膨らみがあるが、毛羽が長く、密集しており毛羽落ちしやすい、精紡合撚糸であった。
表1から明らかなように、実施例1のタオル地は、カサ高性に優れ、ふんわりした風合いを持ち、毛羽落ちがしにくく、吸水性が高い、素晴らしい白地のタオル地であった。詳細には、カサ高度は10.55cm3/gで、比較例1、比較例2に対し、14%~18%アップ、圧縮仕事量も5.80gf.cm2で、1.5~1.6倍とそれぞれ大きくアップしており、カサが高くふんわりした風合いが裏付けられた。また、洗濯での毛羽落ち率は0.034%で、比較例1、比較例2に対し、25%~26%毛羽落ちしにくかった。また、ふき取り吸水指数は洗濯前で同比較例に対し、4.8~3.5倍であり、500以上の良好レベルであった。洗濯後は1.4~1.2倍であり、700以上の非常に優れたレベルであり、大きな吸水性を示す、白地のタオルであった。なお、糸加工、製織、仕上げ加工の製造については特に問題がなく、スムーズに加工することができた。
A.撚糸加工
パイル糸として実施例1の方法に準じて、綿の20番の580回/mのZ撚りに下撚りした単糸の精紡合撚糸を作り、次いでこの下撚りした単糸を単糸とは逆方向のS撚り(右撚り)に、実施例1と同様のゴム製ベルトを用いて、155回/mの上撚りをかけて、解撚加工した(解撚率:27%)。その結果、解撚された425回/m、Z撚りの20番単糸の精紡合撚加工糸を得た(580回/mZ⇒155回/m、S解撚⇒425/mZ)
次いでこの解撚した20番単糸の精紡合撚加工糸を織物の表、裏のパイル糸に用い、経糸地糸及び緯糸地糸とも、綿のリング紡績糸の16番単糸を用い、タテ密度60/吋、ヨコ密度42本/吋で、綿100%のタオル地に製織した。この織り上がった生機を、糊抜き精練、漂白加工し、紺色の反応染料で80℃、40分で染色し、セットして仕上げた。仕上げたタオル地は厚み3.99mm、目付411g/m2、カサ高度は9.71cm3/gであった。
実施例2の比較として、解撚しない綿の20番単糸の580回/mのZ撚りの精紡合撚糸をパイル糸に用いた以外は実施例2に従って、製織し、染色し仕上げた。仕上げたタオル地は厚み3.24mm、目付408g/m2、カサ高度は7.94cm3/gであった。
実施例2はカサ高度が9.71cm3/gで、比較例3に対して22%アップしており、カサが高く、また、非常にソフトで膨らみがある風合いであった。また、毛羽落ちも少なかった。吸水速度は簡易的に手持ちのスポイトで10cmの高さから1滴滴下し、その吸水速度を測った結果、1秒以下で吸水し、吸水性も優れていることを確認した。このように、風合い、毛羽落ち、吸水性の機能性に優れた、紺色のタオル地であった。一方、比較例3は実施例2に対してカサ高性が低く、また、膨らみ風合い、毛羽落ち、吸水性(吸水速度;2秒)がいずれも劣る、従来のタオル地であった。
A.撚糸加工
パイル糸として綿の22番相当の粗糸1本と、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント長繊維延伸糸の110デシテックス、48フィラメントを1本ずつ左右に配置し、これを2本に合わせてZ方向(左撚り)に1mあたり、1050回に下撚りし、16.6番単糸の精紡合撚糸を作った(1050回/m、Z撚り)。次いで連続して、この下撚りした単糸を実施例1のゴム製のベルトで単糸とは逆方向のS撚り(右撚り)に580回/mの上撚りをかけて、解撚した(解撚率:55%)。その結果、解撚された470回/m、Z撚りの16.6番単糸の精紡合撚加工糸を得た(1050回/mZ⇒580回/m、S解撚⇒470/mZ)。
次いでこの解撚した16.6番単糸の精紡合撚加工糸を織物の表、裏のパイル糸に用い、経糸地糸は綿のリング紡績糸の16番単糸を、緯糸地糸は綿のリング紡績糸の20番単糸を用い、タテ密度60/吋、ヨコ密度42本/吋で、パイル糸の混率;綿70%ポリエステル30%、タオル地全体の混率;綿79%ポリエステル21%のタオル地に製織した。この織り上がった生機を、糊抜き精練、漂白加工し、ポリエステル側をグレー色の分散染料で130℃、40分で、次いで綿側を黒色の反応染料で80℃、40分でそれぞれ染色し、セットして仕上げた。仕上げたタオル地は厚み4.44mm、目付396g/m2、カサ高度は11.21cm3/gであった。
実施例3の比較として、解撚しない上記綿/ポリエステル精紡合撚糸1050回/m、Z撚りをパイル糸に用いた以外は実施例3に従って、製織し、染色し仕上げた。仕上げたタオル地は厚み3.64mm、目付417g/m2、カサ高度は8.73cm3/gであった。
実施例3はカサ高度が11.21cm3/gで、比較例4に対して28%アップしており、カサが高く、また、腰がありで膨らみがある風合いであった。また、毛羽落ちも少なく、実施例2と同様の簡易吸水速度評価で、1秒以下で吸水性も良く、優れた機能性を有するものであった。また、洗濯での乾燥が速く、洗濯収縮が少なく寸法安定性に優れた、グレーと黒色が濃淡にシャンブレーに染色された、カラー意匠性に富むタオル地であった。一方、比較例4はカサ高性、膨らみ風合い、毛羽落ち、吸水性(吸水速度;3秒)のいずれの特性も実施例3に劣る、タオル地であった。
Claims (9)
- 経糸地糸と緯糸地糸とが交差した地組織にパイル糸が係止されるタオル地であって、
前記経糸地糸と前記緯糸地糸と前記パイル糸のうち少なくとも一つは、精紡合撚加工糸で形成され、
前記精紡合撚加工糸は、2本以上の粗糸が単糸として下撚り方向に撚られた当該粗糸の1本が均斉な撚りを有し、且つ、当該粗糸の他の少なくとも1本がストランド長と撚り合わせ角が不規則な実撚りを部分的に有する精紡合撚糸が、開繊して膨らんでいる、タオル地。 - 前記精紡合撚糸は、前記不規則な実撚りの箇所に交絡の強い部分を多数備え、
前記精紡合撚加工糸は、当該精紡合撚加工糸の表面に前記交絡の強い部分から発現した細かな毛羽を有する、請求項1に記載のタオル地。 - 前記精紡合撚加工糸は、下撚り数に対して5~80%の範囲で逆方向に解撚されて構成されている、請求項1又は2に記載のタオル地。
- 前記精紡合撚加工糸は、綿の混率が綿40重量%以上合成繊維60重量%未満で構成されている、請求項1乃至3のいずれか1項に記載のタオル地。
- 前記精紡合撚加工糸の糸番手は、5~300番である、請求項1乃至4のいずれか1項に記載のタオル地。
- 前記タオル地の目付は、80~1000g/m2である、請求項1乃至5のいずれか1項に記載のタオル地。
- 経糸地糸と緯糸地糸とが交差した地組織にパイル糸が係止されるタオル地であって、当該経糸地糸と当該緯糸地糸と当該パイル糸のうち少なくとも一つが精紡合撚加工糸で形成された、タオル地の製造方法において、
前記精紡合撚加工糸は、
2本以上の粗糸を同じ方向に引き揃えて単糸として下撚りして精紡合撚糸を形成する工程と、
前記精紡合撚糸を下撚り方向と逆方向に上撚りして解撚し、精紡合撚加工糸を形成する工程と、
を備える工程で製造される、タオル地の製造方法。 - 前記精紡合撚加工糸を形成する工程は、前記精紡合撚糸の解撚と同時に当該精紡合撚糸を擦過する、請求項7に記載のタオル地の製造方法。
- 前記精紡合撚加工糸を形成する工程は、前記精紡合撚糸を下撚りの回転数の5~80%の範囲で解撚する、請求項7又は8に記載のタオル地の製造方法。
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