WO2022191090A1 - ポリアミド捲縮糸、仮撚加工糸および布帛 - Google Patents
ポリアミド捲縮糸、仮撚加工糸および布帛 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2022191090A1 WO2022191090A1 PCT/JP2022/009564 JP2022009564W WO2022191090A1 WO 2022191090 A1 WO2022191090 A1 WO 2022191090A1 JP 2022009564 W JP2022009564 W JP 2022009564W WO 2022191090 A1 WO2022191090 A1 WO 2022191090A1
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- Prior art keywords
- polyamide
- yarn
- crimped
- wet heat
- fabric
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- JHWNWJKBPDFINM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Laurolactam Chemical compound O=C1CCCCCCCCCCCN1 JHWNWJKBPDFINM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,4,4,6,6-hexaphenoxy-1,3,5-triaza-2$l^{5},4$l^{5},6$l^{5}-triphosphacyclohexa-1,3,5-triene Chemical compound N=1P(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP=1(OC=1C=CC=CC=1)OC1=CC=CC=C1 RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZCYVEMRRCGMTRW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 7553-56-2 Chemical compound [I] ZCYVEMRRCGMTRW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GVNWZKBFMFUVNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Adipamide Chemical compound NC(=O)CCCCC(N)=O GVNWZKBFMFUVNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- TZYHIGCKINZLPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N azepan-2-one;hexane-1,6-diamine;hexanedioic acid Chemical compound NCCCCCCN.O=C1CCCCCN1.OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O TZYHIGCKINZLPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- BXKDSDJJOVIHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N edrophonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CC[N+](C)(C)C1=CC=CC(O)=C1 BXKDSDJJOVIHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000005611 electricity Effects 0.000 description 1
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Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
- D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
- D01F8/12—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyamide as constituent
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
Definitions
- the present invention relates to crimped yarns, false twisted yarns and fabrics made of side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath composite polyamide fibers.
- polyamide fibers are softer and have a better touch than polyester fibers, and have been widely used in clothing applications.
- a method of obtaining a stretchable woven or knitted fabric by using fibers having elasticity, or a latent crimp performance in which crimps are expressed by a heat treatment such as a dyeing process using two types of polymers with different properties in combination There is a method of obtaining a stretchable woven or knitted fabric by forming a composite fiber having a
- Patent Document 1 discloses a side-by-side type false-twisted composite yarn in which a resin composition consisting of polymetaxylene adipamide and polyamide 6 is used as one component.
- Patent Document 2 discloses a polyamide latently crimped yarn in which two types of polyamide having different viscosities, consisting of a nylon 6/66 copolymer as a high-viscosity polymer and nylon 6 as a low-viscosity polymer, are laminated side-by-side.
- Patent Document 3 discloses a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type composite polyamide fiber for false twisting, in which one component is nylon 610 or nylon 612, which is low water-absorbing polyamide.
- one component in response to the problem of wrinkles in polyamide conjugate fibers, one component is a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type polyamide conjugate fiber made of nylon 610 or nylon 612, which is a low water-absorbing polyamide. It is described that wrinkles are less likely to occur in wet heat processes such as dyeing in the production of knitted fabrics, and sufficient stretchability can be imparted.
- slight variations in viscosity cause variations in the degree of orientation and crystallinity of fibers, and variations in shrinkage, uneven dyeing, uneven crimping, etc. occur in crimped yarns and false twisted yarns. There was an issue.
- an object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and it is an object of the present invention to suppress the variation in shrinkage rate and to have good quality with less wrinkles and wrinkles due to uneven dyeing and crimping. is to provide
- the crimped polyamide yarn and the false twisted yarn of the present invention are configured as follows.
- a false twisted yarn comprising the polyamide crimped yarn according to any one of (1) to (4) above.
- the false twisted yarn according to (5) above which has a wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of 150% or less.
- the false-twisted yarn according to (5) which has an elongation rate of 70 to 300%.
- a fabric comprising the false twisted yarn described in (7) above.
- a stretchy polyamide woven or knitted fabric that suppresses variation in shrinkage rate, which is a problem with polyamide crimped yarns and false twisted yarns, and has good quality with less wrinkles and wrinkles due to uneven dyeing and crimping. can do.
- FIG. 1 is a diagram for explaining the form of a composite fiber
- FIG. 1(a) is a cross-sectional view showing embodiments of a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type
- FIG. 1(b) is an eccentric
- FIG. 4 is a diagram for explaining eccentric arrangement in a core-sheath type composite fiber
- FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram showing one embodiment of a manufacturing apparatus preferably used as the method for manufacturing the polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention.
- the polyamide crimped yarn according to the present invention is made of side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type composite polyamide fibers, and has a wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of 150% or less.
- the side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type structure in the composite polyamide fiber forming the polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention is preferably formed from two types of polyamide having different shrinkage properties. That is, the composite polyamide fiber is constructed by selecting crystalline polyamide (A) and crystalline polyamide (B) as two-component polyamides having different shrinkage properties.
- the composite polyamide fiber is constructed by selecting crystalline polyamide (A) and crystalline polyamide (B) as two-component polyamides having different shrinkage properties.
- polyamides examples include nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 11, nylon 12, nylon 410, nylon 510, nylon 610, nylon 612, and copolymers containing them as main components.
- the shrinkage properties of the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) are not specified as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention. is preferably 5.0% or more.
- the practical upper limit of boiling water shrinkage difference is 40%.
- the boiling water shrinkage rate is obtained by taking a single yarn of 33 dtex 12 filaments of the polymer, applying a load of 90 mg / dtex for 30 seconds to obtain the length B, and then immersing it in boiling water at 100 ° C. for 20 minutes. It is air-dried, and a load of 90 mg/dtex is applied for 30 seconds to determine the length A, which is calculated from the following formula.
- Boiling water shrinkage rate (%) [(B - A) / B] x 100
- the crystalline polyamide (A) is a type of polyamide different from the crystalline polyamide (B) among the polyamides exemplified above.
- the crystalline polyamide (A) may contain components other than the lactam, aminocarboxylic acid, diamine and dicarboxylic acid in its repeating structure as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
- the crystalline polyamide (A) is a polymer in which 90 mol% or more of the repeating structure is a single lactam, an aminocarboxylic acid, or a combination of diamine and dicarboxylic acid. is preferred, and more preferred is a polymer in which 95 mol % or more of the repeating structure is a single lactam, aminocarboxylic acid, or a combination of diamine and dicarboxylic acid.
- the crystalline polyamide (B) may be any polymer that has different shrinkage properties than the crystalline polyamide (A).
- Examples of the crystalline polyamide (B) include the polyamides exemplified above.
- Crystalline polyamide (B) is preferably nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, etc., and copolymers containing them as main components. is preferably a single lactam, aminocarboxylic acid or a combination of diamines and dicarboxylic acids, and more preferably 95 mol % or more of the repeating structure is a single lactam, aminocarboxylic acid or a combination of diamines and dicarboxylic acids. It is an acid polymer.
- the combination of crystalline polyamide (A) and crystalline polyamide (B) in the composite polyamide fiber is preferably a combination of nylon 610 or nylon 612 and nylon 6. With such a configuration, excellent crimp performance can be exhibited, and a fabric having excellent texture, durability, and soft stretchability can be formed.
- the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) may contain a pigment, a heat stabilizer, an antioxidant, a weathering agent, a flame retardant, a plasticizer, a release agent, a lubricant, and a foaming agent. , an antistatic agent, a moldability improver, a reinforcing agent, and the like can be added and used.
- the composite polyamide fiber forming the crimped polyamide yarn of the present invention has a composite cross section formed by bonding two types of crystalline polyamides having different shrinkage properties. It is preferable that the two types of crystalline polyamides are present in a bonded state without being substantially separated.
- Examples of the form of the composite cross section include a side-by-side type (reference numerals 10a to 10c) and an eccentric sheath-core type (reference numeral 10d) as shown in FIG. 1(a).
- the eccentric core-sheath type composite polyamide fiber 10d has a core component of crystalline polyamide (A) (symbol A) covered with a sheath component of crystalline polyamide (B) (symbol B).
- the crystalline polyamide (B) may be the core.
- the polyamide on the low-shrinkage side may be positioned in the core portion, and the high-shrinkage polyamide having higher shrinkage characteristics than the low-shrinkage polyamide may serve as the sheath portion, or vice versa.
- the interface between the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) in the cross section of the composite polyamide fiber may be flat or smooth. Also, the bonding interface may be straight or curved.
- the center 11 of the eccentric sheath-core composite polyamide fiber 10d and the center 12 of the crystalline polyamide (A) as the core It is more preferable that the ratio L/M between the distance L between the two and the length M of the intersection of the straight line extending the distance L and the outer circumference of the yarn is 1/8 to 1/2.
- the center of the core refers to the position of the center of gravity of the core in the cross section of the fiber.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of the crimped polyamide yarn of the present invention is 150% or less.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate is 150% or less, the variation in the shrinkage rate of the yarn under wet heat conditions such as the refining process and the dyeing process is suppressed, and the uneven dyeing and crimping during these processes are reduced. can.
- a woven or knitted fabric having good quality and excellent stretchability can be obtained.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate exceeds 150%, uneven dyeing and uneven crimping tend to occur during the refining process and the dyeing process, resulting in inferior quality and reduced stretchability of the fabric.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate is preferably 120% or less.
- the practical lower limit of the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate is 50%.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of the false twisted yarn made of the crimped polyamide yarn of the present invention is 150% or less.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of the false twisted yarn is more preferably 120% or less, and the practical lower limit of the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate is 0.5%.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of the false twisted yarn is within the above range, variation in the shrinkage rate of the false twisted yarn under wet heat conditions is suppressed, so uneven dyeing and uneven crimping during the processing process can be reduced.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress fluctuation rate referred to here is the contraction stress generated when performing heat treatment while running the fiber under wet heat conditions using a continuous heat shrinkage measuring instrument "FTA-500” manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd. Variation (CV%) when continuously measured in the direction.
- FTA-500 the yarn is run between the yarn supply roller and the yarn drawing roller, subjected to wet heat treatment in a heated water tank between these rollers, and continuously shrunk by a tension measuring device installed behind it. Measure the stress.
- wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate (standard deviation ⁇ f) / (average value f ave ) ⁇ 100
- the measurement conditions are as follows: the length of yarn to be measured is 25 m, the speed ratio of the delivery roller to the take-up roller is 99/100, the set temperature of the heating water tank is 100° C., and the yarn speed is 5 m/min.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress of the crimped polyamide yarn of the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 0.50 cN/dtex. By setting it to such a range, it is possible to develop a sufficient coil crimp even in a fabric in which the yarn is constrained, so that a woven or knitted fabric having excellent stretchability can be obtained.
- the wet heat shrinkage stress is more preferably 0.002 to 0.40 cN/dtex.
- the total fineness of the crimped polyamide yarn is preferably 20 to 200 dtex in consideration of apparel applications.
- the single yarn fineness is not limited as long as it does not impair the effects of the present invention, but it is preferably 1.0 to 6.0 dtex when used for sportswear, down jackets, outerwear, and innerwear.
- the elongation of the crimped polyamide yarn is preferably 50-80%. By setting it to such a range, the number of real twists added in the false twisting process becomes appropriate, the obtained textured yarn is imparted with a uniform crimp, and the change in crimp over time and the decrease in crimp during repeated pulling are small. A textured yarn is obtained.
- the stretch elongation of the polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention is preferably 15% or more. By setting it in this range, sufficient coil crimping can be developed and a woven fabric with good soft stretchability can be obtained.
- the practical upper limit of the expansion/contraction rate is 100%.
- the stretch elongation of the crimped polyamide yarn is more preferably 16% or more, more preferably 17% or more.
- the elongation ratio of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 70% or more. By setting it in this range, sufficient coil crimping can be developed and a woven fabric with good soft stretchability can be obtained.
- the practical upper limit of the stretch ratio is 300%.
- the stretch elongation of the false twisted yarn is more preferably 75% or more, more preferably 80% or more.
- a method for producing the polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention will be described.
- the polyamide on the low-shrinkage side suppresses an increase in viscosity during melt retention.
- Polyamide is known to undergo a polymerization reaction due to retention during melt spinning, resulting in an increase in viscosity. Therefore, by adjusting the chip moisture content of the polyamide on the low shrinkage side and controlling the polymerization equilibrium reaction, it is possible to suppress the increase in viscosity due to retention during melt spinning.
- the polyamide on the low shrinkage side preferably satisfies ⁇ s- ⁇ 0 ⁇ 50 poise, where ⁇ 0 is the melt viscosity immediately after melting in melt spinning, and ⁇ s is the melt viscosity immediately before ejection from the spinneret.
- ⁇ s ⁇ 0 is 50 poise or less, the increase in viscosity of the low-shrinkage polyamide is suppressed, stress is appropriately applied to the polyamide on the high-shrinkage side during spinning and drawing, and a difference in orientation is generated, resulting in favorable latent crimps.
- ⁇ s ⁇ 0 is more preferably ⁇ 150 poise ⁇ s ⁇ 0 ⁇ 50 poise.
- the chip moisture content is preferably 600 to 1800 ppm.
- the moisture content of the polyamide is 1800 ppm or less, the hydrolysis of the polyamide is suppressed during retention in the melting section, piping and spinneret, and an extreme decrease in viscosity does not occur, stabilizing fluctuations in melt viscosity.
- yarn bending during discharge from the spinneret is suppressed, and stable operation becomes possible.
- the relative viscosity of sulfuric acid was measured by dissolving 0.25 g of polyamide in 25 ml of sulfuric acid having a concentration of 98% by mass so as to be 1 g/100 ml, and using an Ostwald viscometer at a temperature of 25 ° C.
- Flow time (T1 ) is measured and determined by the ratio T1/T2 of T1 to the flow-down time (T2) of sulfuric acid having a concentration of 98% by mass.
- the sulfuric acid relative viscosity difference between the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) is not limited as long as it does not impair the effects of the present invention, but is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 1.0.
- the sulfuric acid relative viscosity difference is not limited as long as it does not impair the effects of the present invention, but is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 1.0.
- the difference in melt viscosity between the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) is preferably 1000 poise or less.
- the melt viscosity difference is more preferably 600 to 1000 poise. If the difference in melt viscosity is 600 poise or more, a difference in stress applied to each polyamide during spinning tends to occur, and a difference in orientation is generated, making it easy to obtain a composite polyamide fiber excellent in latent crimp performance.
- the composite polyamide fiber forming the crimped polyamide yarn of the present invention has a composite cross section formed by bonding two types of crystalline polyamide.
- the side-by-side type when the difference in melt viscosity between the two types of polyamide is large, the flow resistance of the polymer differs during ejection from the die, and the difference in flow speed tends to cause yarn bending and deteriorate yarn production stability. Therefore, in the production of composite polyamide fibers using crystalline polyamide (A) and crystalline polyamide (B), which have different melt viscosities, it is preferable to adopt the eccentric core-sheath type from the viewpoint of spinning stability.
- the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) are separately melted, weighed and transported using a gear pump, and formed into a composite flow in a conventional manner so as to form a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type. Then, a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber spinneret is used, and the fiber is discharged from the spinneret so as to have the cross section illustrated in FIG. 1(a).
- the extruded composite polyamide fiber yarn is cooled to 30° C. by blowing cooling air from a yarn cooling device such as a chimney.
- the cooled yarn is lubricated by a lubricating device and converged, entangled through an interlacing device, then taken off by a take-off roller at 2000 to 4500 m/min (spinning speed), drawn by the take-off roller and stretched. It is passed through rollers and drawn at a draw ratio of 1.0 to 1.5 times according to the ratio of the peripheral speeds of the take-up roller and the drawing roller. Further, the yarn is wound into a package at a winding speed of 3000 m/min or more.
- the spinning speed is preferably 2000-3500 m/min.
- the spinning draft to the take-up roller is large, stress difference easily occurs on each polyamide, orientation difference is generated, and composite polyamide fiber (polyamide crimped yarn) excellent in latent crimp performance is produced. can get.
- the speed is adjusted to 3500 m/min or less, yarn bending during discharge from the spinneret is suppressed, and the spinning property is stabilized.
- the false twisted yarn of the present invention can be obtained by a conventionally known false twisting technique.
- the false twisting is performed in a draw friction false twisting device.
- a draw friction false twisting device Examples are as follows.
- the polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention supplied to a draw friction texturing device is sent to a supply roller through desired yarn guides and fluid processing devices. After that, it is guided to a drawing roller through a heated false twist heater, a cooling plate and a twisting member for drawing friction false twisting, and wound as a false twisted yarn.
- the friction texturing may be performed after drawing with a hot pin or a hot plate before the supply roller of the draw friction texturing apparatus, or the drawing may be performed between the supply roller and the drawing roller. Friction false twisting may be performed while the yarn is being twisted.
- the twisting method is not limited to a spindle method, a three-axis twister method, a belt nip method, or the like. It is preferable to use a spindle method when it is desired to increase crimping, and it is preferable to use a triaxial twister and a belt nip, which are friction false twisting methods, when it is desired to increase the processing speed and reduce the production cost.
- the polyamide crimped yarn and false twisted yarn of the present invention can be woven and knitted according to known methods.
- the resulting woven and knitted fabrics have excellent stretchability.
- the texture may be any of plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, variations thereof, and mixed weave depending on the application.
- the weave may be any of the jacquard weave of circular knitted fabric, interlock weave, half weave of warp knitted fabric, satin weave, jacquard weave, their variations, and mixed weave, depending on the application. I don't mind.
- the use of the woven or knitted fabric made of the crimped polyamide yarn or false twisted yarn of the present invention is not limited, but is preferably used for clothing, more preferably for down jackets, windbreakers, golf wear, rain wear, and the like. Typical applications include sportswear, casual wear, and women's and men's clothing. In particular, it can be suitably used for sportswear and down jackets.
- Melting point Polyamide chip samples were subjected to thermal analysis using Q1000 manufactured by TA Instruments, and data processing was performed by Universal Analysis2000. Thermal analysis was carried out under a nitrogen flow (50 mL/min) at a temperature range of -50 to 300°C, a heating rate of 10°C/min, and a chip sample mass of about 5 g (calorie data was normalized by mass after measurement). . Melting points were determined from melting peaks.
- Relative viscosity 0.25 g of a polyamide chip sample was dissolved in 25 ml of sulfuric acid having a concentration of 98% by mass so as to be 1 g/100 ml, and the flowing time (T1) at a temperature of 25° C. was measured using an Ostwald type viscometer. . Subsequently, the flow-down time (T2) of sulfuric acid having a concentration of 98% by mass was measured. The ratio of T1 to T2, ie, T1/T2, was defined as the sulfuric acid relative viscosity.
- melt Viscosity Polyamide chip samples were adjusted to a predetermined moisture content as shown in Tables 1 to 3, and melt viscosities were measured by changing the strain rate in stages using Capilograph 1B manufactured by Toyo Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd. The measurement temperature was the same as the spinning temperature, and the time (holding time) from the time the sample was put into the heating furnace to the start of measurement was measured at three points of 5 minutes, 10 minutes, and 20 minutes. In Examples and Comparative Examples, a melt viscosity of 1216 s ⁇ 1 was described when the holding time was set to 5 minutes. Further, a value obtained by subtracting the minimum value from the maximum value of the melt viscosity at 1216 s ⁇ 1 at each holding time (maximum value ⁇ minimum value) was defined as the melt viscosity fluctuation width.
- Chip moisture content A polyamide chip sample is subjected to coulometric titration of the Karl Fischer reaction using a trace moisture meter CA-200 moisture meter (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation), and iodide ions, sulfur dioxide, and alcohol are added to the titration cell as the main components. An electrolytic solution was added, and iodine required for titration was internally generated by electrolysis, and the amount of electricity required for electrolytic oxidation was integrated to calculate the moisture content.
- Boiling water shrinkage rate (%) [(B - A) / B] x 100
- Wet heat shrinkage stress, wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate Using a thermal shrinkage stress measuring machine (manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd., model "FTA-500"), the fiber yarn to be measured is 25 m, the speed ratio of the delivery roller and the take-up roller is 99/100, and the fineness of the yarn (decitex ), apply a tension of 1/50 g, set the temperature of the heating water tank at 100 ° C., yarn speed of 5 m / min, and calculate the wet heat shrinkage stress and wet heat shrinkage variation rate from the shrinkage stress obtained by measuring under wet heat conditions according to the following formula. did.
- Wet heat shrinkage stress (cN/dtex) (average f ave )/(total fineness)
- Wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate (%) (standard deviation ⁇ f) / (average value f ave ) ⁇ 100
- Stretching and elongation rate A loop with a circumference of 1 m was prepared from the fiber sample, immersed in boiling water at a temperature of 90 ° C. for 20 minutes, air-dried, and a load of 1.8 mg / dtex was applied for 30 seconds to obtain the length A, and then 90 mg / The length B was determined by applying a dtex load for 30 seconds.
- Example 1 As crystalline polyamide (A), nylon 6 (N6) with a relative viscosity of 2.6, a melting point of 222 ° C., a boiling water shrinkage rate of 13.0% of a single yarn, and a moisture content of 50 ppm is used as a crystalline polyamide (B).
- the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) are melted respectively, and the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) are separated using a side-by-side type spinneret for composite fibers (12 holes, round holes). It was melted and extruded at a composite ratio (mass ratio) of 5:5 (spinning temperature: 270°C).
- the yarn discharged from the spinneret is cooled and solidified by the yarn cooling device, and as shown in Table 1, after being lubricated with a water-containing oil containing a wax component by a two-stage lubricating device, it is entangled by a fluid entangling nozzle device.
- pin false twisting is performed under the condition of a twist number (D/Y) of 1.95 with a draw ratio of 1.25 at a heater temperature of 190 ° C. , to obtain a false-twisted textured yarn having an elastic elongation of 140%.
- a plain weave was woven.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability and fabric quality. Table 1 shows the results.
- Example 2 Except that the moisture content of the crystalline polyamide (B) was set to 1100 ppm, melted and extruded with a side-by-side type composite fiber spinneret (12 holes, round holes), and drawn 1.10 times between drawing rollers (room temperature 25 ° C.). In the same manner as in Example 1, a polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn having 63 dtex 12 filaments, a stretch elongation rate of 18.1%, and a wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of 110% was obtained.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to pin false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 145%.
- a plain weave was woven.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability and fabric quality. Table 1 shows the results.
- Example 3 A polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the moisture content of the crystalline polyamide (B) was changed as shown in Table 1.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to pin false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1, and the obtained false twisted yarn was used as warp to woven into a plain weave.
- the resulting woven fabric was excellent in stretchability.
- Example 3 was good
- Example 4 was slightly good. Table 1 shows the results.
- Example 5 As shown in Table 2, using a spinneret for eccentric core-sheath type composite fibers (12 holes, round holes), melted and extruded at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C., and of the two-stage oil supply, the second stage oil solution was used for false twisting. Lubricated with an oil agent, taken with a take-up roller (room temperature 25 ° C.) at 3000 m / min, stretched 1.20 times between stretching rollers (room temperature 25 ° C.), and then rolled into a package at a winding speed of 3582 m / min.
- a polyamide latent crimped conjugate fiber yarn having a 66 dtex 12 filament, a stretching elongation rate of 19.5%, and a wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of 100% was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the yarn was wound.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to friction false twisting to obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 165%.
- a plain weave was woven.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability and fabric quality. Table 2 shows the results.
- Example 6 A polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5, except that the moisture content of the crystalline polyamide (B) was changed as shown in Table 2.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to friction false twisting in the same manner as in Example 5, and the obtained false twisted yarn was used as warp to weave a plain weave.
- the resulting woven fabric was excellent in stretchability.
- Examples 6 and 7 were good, and Example 8 was somewhat good. Table 2 shows the results.
- Example 9 The polyamide latent winding was performed in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the take-up roller speed was 2218 m/min, the draw ratio between the take-up roller and the stretching roller was 1.45 times, and the winding speed was 3200 m/min. A crimped composite fiber yarn was obtained.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to friction false twisting in the same manner as in Example 5, and the obtained false twisted yarn was used as warp to weave a plain weave.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability and fabric quality. Table 2 shows the results.
- Example 10 A polyamide latently crimped composite fiber yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5, except that the crystalline polyamide (A) and crystalline polyamide (B) polymers were exchanged.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to friction false twisting in the same manner as in Example 5, and the obtained false twisted yarn was used as warp to weave a plain weave.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability and fabric quality. Table 2 shows the results.
- Example 1 63 dtex 12 filament, stretch elongation 15.3 in the same manner as in Example 1 except that nylon 610 (N610) with a relative viscosity of 2.7, a melting point of 225 ° C., and a moisture content of 200 ppm was used as the crystalline polyamide (B). %, and a wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of 210%.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to pin false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 130%.
- a plain weave was woven.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability, but the quality of the fabric was poor. Table 3 shows the results.
- Example 2 In the same manner as in Example 1, except that the moisture content of the crystalline polyamide (B) was changed to 2000 ppm, a polyamide latent crimped conjugate fiber yarn having a 63 dtex 12 filament, a stretching elongation rate of 17.1%, and a wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of 180% got
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to pin false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 140%.
- a plain weave was woven.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability, but the quality of the fabric was slightly poor. Table 3 shows the results.
- Example 3 66 dtex 12 filament, stretch elongation rate 16.3 in the same manner as in Example 5 except that nylon 610 (N610) having a relative viscosity of 2.7, a melting point of 225 ° C., and a moisture content of 200 ppm was used as the crystalline polyamide (B). %, and a wet heat shrinkage stress variation rate of 200%.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to friction false twisting to obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 145%.
- a plain weave was woven.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability, but the quality of the fabric was poor. Table 3 shows the results.
- the resulting polyamide latently crimped conjugate fiber yarn was subjected to friction false twisting to obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 175%.
- a plain weave was woven.
- the obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability, but the quality of the fabric was slightly poor. Table 3 shows the results.
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Abstract
Description
(1)サイドバイサイド型または偏心芯鞘型の複合ポリアミド繊維からなり、湿熱収縮応力変動率が150%以下であるポリアミド捲縮糸。
(2)収縮特性の異なる2種類のポリアミドがサイドバイサイド型または偏心芯鞘型に貼り合わされてなる前記(1)に記載のポリアミド捲縮糸。
(3)湿熱収縮応力が0.001~0.50cN/dtexである前記(1)または(2)に記載のポリアミド捲縮糸。
(4)伸縮伸長率が15~100%である前記(1)~(3)のいずれか1つに記載のポリアミド捲縮糸。
(5)前記(1)~(4)のいずれか1つに記載のポリアミド捲縮糸からなる仮撚加工糸。
(6)湿熱収縮応力変動率が150%以下である前記(5)に記載の仮撚加工糸。
(7)伸縮伸長率が70~300%である前記(5)に記載の仮撚加工糸。
(8)前記(7)に記載の仮撚加工糸を含む布帛。
本書において、「質量」は「重量」と同義である。
本発明のポリアミド捲縮糸を形成する複合ポリアミド繊維におけるサイドバイサイド型または偏心芯鞘型の構造は、収縮特性の異なる2種類のポリアミドにより形成されるのが好ましい。つまり、複合ポリアミド繊維は、収縮特性の異なる2成分のポリアミドとして結晶性ポリアミド(A)及び結晶性ポリアミド(B)を選択して構成される。両成分共にポリアミドから構成することにより、複合界面の親和性が高く、界面剥離を防ぐことができ、断面バラツキや断面形状不良が少なくなり、油剤付与および交絡付与が均一にされることとなるため、油分バラツキや交絡バラツキの少ないポリアミド捲縮糸を得ることが可能となる。
沸騰水収縮率(%)=〔(B-A)/B〕×100
結晶性ポリアミド(A)は、上記に例示したようなポリアミドのうち、結晶性ポリアミド(B)とは異なる種類のポリアミドとする。結晶性ポリアミド(A)としては、ナイロン6、ナイロン66、ナイロン4、ナイロン610、ナイロン11、ナイロン12等およびそれらを主成分とする共重合体が好ましい。
また、製糸性、強度および防剥離性の観点から、結晶性ポリアミド(A)は、繰り返し構造の90モル%以上を単一のラクタム、アミノカルボン酸もしくは一組み合わせのジアミンおよびジカルボン酸とする重合体が好ましく、さらに好ましくは繰り返し構造の95モル%以上を単一のラクタム、アミノカルボン酸もしくは一組み合わせのジアミンおよびジカルボン酸とする重合体である。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)は、結晶性ポリアミド(A)と収縮特性が異なればどのようなポリマーでもよい。結晶性ポリアミド(B)としては、上記に例示したようなポリアミドが挙げられる。結晶性ポリアミド(B)は、ナイロン6、ナイロン66、ナイロン4、ナイロン610、ナイロン11、ナイロン12等およびそれらを主成分とする共重合体が好ましく、これらのうち、繰り返し構造の90モル%以上を単一のラクタム、アミノカルボン酸もしくは一組み合わせのジアミンおよびジカルボン酸とする重合体が好ましく、さらに好ましくは繰り返し構造の95モル%以上を単一のラクタム、アミノカルボン酸もしくは一組み合わせのジアミンおよびジカルボン酸とする重合体である。
複合ポリアミド繊維における結晶性ポリアミド(A)と結晶性ポリアミド(B)の組み合わせは、ナイロン610又はナイロン612とナイロン6の組み合わせであることが好ましい。かかる構成とすることにより、優れた捲縮性能が発現し、優れた風合い、耐久性、ソフトストレッチ性を有する布帛を形成することができる。
また、必要に応じて、結晶性ポリアミド(A)と結晶性ポリアミド(B)には、顔料、熱安定剤、酸化防止剤、耐候剤、難燃剤、可塑剤、離型剤、滑剤、発泡剤、帯電防止剤、成形性改良剤、および強化剤等を添加配合して用いることができる。
本発明のポリアミド捲縮糸を形成する複合ポリアミド繊維は、収縮特性の異なる2種類の結晶性ポリアミドが接合してなる複合断面を有している。2種類の結晶性ポリアミドは実質的に分離せず貼り合わされた状態で存在するのが好ましい。複合断面の形態としては、例えば図1の(a)に示すようなサイドバイサイド型(符号10a~10c)や偏心芯鞘型(符号10d)が挙げられる。偏心芯鞘型の複合ポリアミド繊維10dは芯成分である結晶性ポリアミド(A)(符号A)が、鞘成分である結晶性ポリアミド(B)(符号B)で覆われている。図1の(a)に示した偏心芯鞘型の複合ポリアミド繊維10dでは結晶性ポリアミド(A)が芯部を成す構成を示したが、収縮特性が異なる2成分で構成されていればよいため、結晶性ポリアミド(B)が芯部であってもよい。具体的に、低収縮側のポリアミドが芯部に位置し、この低収縮ポリアミドよりも高収縮特性を有する高収縮ポリアミドが鞘部となる構成であってもよいし、その逆の構成でもよい。
偏心芯鞘型の複合ポリアミド繊維においては、図1の(b)に示すように、偏心芯鞘型の複合ポリアミド繊維10dの中心11と芯部である結晶性ポリアミド(A)の中心12との間の距離Lと、該距離Lを延長した直線と糸外周との交点の長さMとの比L/Mが1/8~1/2であることがより好ましい。なお、芯部の中心とは、繊維横断面における芯部の重心位置をいう。
本発明のポリアミド捲縮糸の湿熱収縮応力変動率は、150%以下である。
湿熱収縮応力変動率が150%以下であることにより、精錬工程や染色加工工程などの湿熱条件下における糸条の収縮率のバラツキが抑制され、これらの工程時における染め斑、捲縮斑を低減できる。その結果、良好な品位を持った優れたストレッチ性を有する織編物が得られる。
これに対し、湿熱収縮応力変動率が150%を超えると、精錬工程や染色加工工程で工程時の染め斑、捲縮斑が発生しやすく、品位が劣位となり織物のストレッチ性も低下する。
湿熱収縮応力変動率は、好ましくは120%以下である。また、湿熱収縮応力変動率の実用上の下限は50%である。
湿熱収縮応力変動率(%)=(標準偏差σf)/(平均値fave)×100
測定条件は、測定する糸条を25mとし、送り出しローラーを引取ローラーの速度比を99/100として、加熱水槽の設定温度を100℃、糸速度5m/分とする。
また、連続熱収縮測定器「FTA-500」の測定で得られた収縮応力の平均値faveをJIS L1013(2010年)に準じて測定して総繊度で除した値を湿熱収縮応力とする。
湿熱収縮応力は、さらに好ましくは、0.002~0.40cN/dtexである。
ポリアミド捲縮糸の総繊度は衣料用途を考慮すると、20~200dtexであるのが好ましい。また、単糸繊度は、本発明の効果を損なわない限り限定されないが、スポーツウエア、ダウンジャケット、アウター、およびインナー用途として用いる場合は1.0~6.0dtexであることが好ましい。
ポリアミド捲縮糸の伸度は50~80%であることが好ましい。かかる範囲とすることにより、仮撚り加工において加撚される実撚り数が適正となり、得られる加工糸に均一な捲縮が付与され、捲縮の経時変化や繰り返しの引張りにおける捲縮低下が少ない加工糸が得られる。
本発明のポリアミド捲縮糸の伸縮伸長率は、15%以上であることが好ましい。かかる範囲とすることにより、十分なコイル捲縮が発現して、良好なソフトストレッチ性のある織物を得ることができる。
伸縮伸長率の実用上の上限は100%である。ポリアミド捲縮糸の伸縮伸長率は、16%以上であるのがより好ましく、17%以上がさらに好ましい。
伸縮伸長率の実用上の上限は300%である。仮撚加工糸の伸縮伸長率は、75%以上であるのがより好ましく、80%以上がさらに好ましい。
伸縮伸長率(%)=〔(B-A)/B〕×100
本発明のポリアミド捲縮糸の製造方法について説明する。
本発明のポリアミド捲縮糸の製造方法において、低収縮側のポリアミドは溶融滞留時の粘度上昇を抑制することが好ましい。ポリアミドは溶融紡糸時の滞留により重合反応が進み、粘度上昇することが知られている。そこで、低収縮側のポリアミドのチップ水分率を調整し、重合平衡反応をコントロールすることで溶融紡糸時の滞留による粘度上昇を抑制することができる。
結晶性ポリアミド(A)と結晶性ポリアミド(B)を別々に溶融し、ギヤポンプを用いて計量して輸送し、そのまま通常の方法でサイドバイサイド型または偏心芯鞘型をとるように複合流を形成して、サイドバイサイド型または偏心芯鞘型の複合繊維用紡糸口金を用いて、図1の(a)に例示する断面となるように紡糸口金から吐出する。吐出された複合ポリアミド繊維糸条は、チムニー等の糸条冷却装置によって冷却風を吹き当てることにより糸条を30℃まで冷却する。続いて、冷却された糸条に対して、給油装置で給油するとともに収束し、交絡装置を経て交絡を付与した後、引き取りローラーによって2000~4500m/分で引き取り(紡糸速度)、引き取りローラーと延伸ローラーを通過し、その際引き取りローラーと延伸ローラーの周速度の比に従って延伸倍率1.0~1.5倍で延伸する。さらに、糸条を3000m/分以上の巻き取り速度でパッケージに巻き取る。
織物の場合、その組織は、使用される用途によって平組織、綾組織、朱子組織やそれらの変化組織、および混合組織のいずれであっても構わない。
編物の場合、その組織は、使用される用途によって丸編地の天竺組織、インターロック組織、経編地のハーフ組織、サテン組織、ジャカード組織やそれらの変化組織、および混合組織のいずれであっても構わない。
ポリアミドチップ試料を、TA Instruments社製Q1000を用いて熱分析を行い、Universal Analysis2000によってデータ処理を実施した。熱分析は、窒素流下(50mL/分)で、温度範囲-50~300℃、昇温速度10℃/分、チップ試料質量約5g(熱量データは測定後質量で規格化)で測定を実施した。融解ピークから融点を測定した。
ポリアミドのチップ試料0.25gを、濃度98質量%の硫酸25mlに対して1g/100mlになるように溶解し、オストワルド型粘度計を用いて25℃の温度での流下時間(T1)を測定した。引き続き、濃度98質量%の硫酸のみの流下時間(T2)を測定した。T2に対するT1の比、すなわちT1/T2を硫酸相対粘度とした。
ポリアミドチップ試料を、表1~3に記載の通り、所定の水分率に調整し、東洋精機製作所社製キャピログラフ1Bによって、歪速度を段階的に変更して、溶融粘度を測定した。測定温度は紡糸温度と同様にし、加熱炉にサンプルを投入してから測定開始までの時間(保持時間)は5分、10分、20分の3点で測定した。なお、実施例あるいは比較例には、保持時間を5分とした際の、1216s-1の溶融粘度を記載した。また、各保持時間における1216s-1の溶融粘度の最大値から最小値を引いた値(最大値-最小値)を溶融粘度変動幅とした。
ポリアミドチップ試料を、微量水分計CA-200水分測定器(三菱ケミカル(株)製)を用いてカールフィッシャー反応の電量滴定法を用い、滴定セルにヨウ化物イオン、二酸化硫黄、およびアルコールを主成分とする電解液を入れ、電解により滴定に必要なヨウ素を内部的に発生させ、電解酸化に要した電気量を積算し、水分率を算出した。
実施例に記載の各ポリマーを原料に、口金吐出孔を12個有する紡糸口金を用いて、280℃の温度で溶融吐出させた。得られた糸条を冷却し、給油、交絡した後に2570m/分の引き取りローラーで引き取り、続いて1.7倍に延伸した後に155℃の温度で熱固定し、巻取速度4000m/分で33dtex12フィラメントのポリアミド単独糸を得た。得られた繊維試料をかせ取りし、90mg/dtexの荷重を30秒掛けて長さBを求めた。ついで、100℃の沸騰水に20分間浸した後、風乾し、90mg/dtexの荷重を30秒掛けて長さAを求めた。次の式より沸騰水収縮率を算出した。
沸騰水収縮率(%)=〔(B-A)/B〕×100
JIS L1013(2010年)に準じた。繊維試料を、1/30(g)の張力で枠周1.125mの検尺機を用いて200回巻かせを作製した。105℃の温度で60分間乾燥しデシケーターに移し、温度20℃、相対湿度55%RH環境下で30分放冷し、かせの質量を測定して得られた値から10000m当たりの質量を算出し、公定水分率を4.5%として繊維糸条の総繊度を算出した。測定は5回行い、平均値を総繊度とした。
熱収縮応力測定機(東レエンジニアリング社製、型式「FTA-500」)を用い、測定する繊維糸条を25mとし、送り出しローラーを引取ローラーの速度比を99/100として、糸条の繊度(デシテックス)の1/50gの張力を掛け、加熱水槽の設定温度100℃、糸速度5m/分、湿熱条件下で測定して得られた収縮応力より湿熱収縮応力、湿熱収縮変動率を下記式に従って算出した。
湿熱収縮応力(cN/dtex)=(平均値fave)/(総繊度)
湿熱収縮応力変動率(%)=(標準偏差σf)/(平均値fave)×100
繊維試料から周長1mのループを作製し、90℃の温度の沸騰水に20分間浸した後、風乾し、1.8mg/dtexの荷重を30秒掛けて長さAを求め、次いで90mg/dtexの荷重を30秒掛けて長さBを求めた。次の式より伸縮伸長率を算出した。
伸縮伸長率(%)=〔(B-A)/B〕×100
繊維試料をオリエンテック社製“TENSILON”(登録商標)、UCT-100でJISL1013(化学繊維フィラメント糸試験方法、2010年)に示される定速伸長条件で測定した。伸度は、引張強さ-伸び曲線における最大強力を示した点の伸びから求めた。また、強度は、最大強力を繊度で除した値を強度とした。測定は10回行い、平均値を強度および伸度とした。
(a)緯糸の製造
N6(相対粘度2.70、融点222℃)を使用し、口金吐出孔を12個有する紡糸口金を用いて、275℃の温度で溶融吐出させた。溶融吐出させた後、得られた糸条を冷却し、給油、交絡した後に2570m/分の引き取りローラーで引き取り、続いて1.7倍に延伸した後に155℃の温度で熱固定し、巻取速度4000m/分で70dtex12フィラメントのナイロン6糸条を得た。
実施例1~10および比較例1~4で得られたサイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型のポリアミド複合仮撚り加工糸を経糸(経糸密度90本/2.54cm)として用い、上記(a)で得られたナイロン6糸条を緯糸(緯糸密度90本/2.54cm)に用い、平織物(経糸/加工糸)を製織した。
得られた織物を80℃の温度で20分間精練を行い、続いてKayanol Yellow N5G 1%owf、酢酸を用いてpH4に調整し、100℃の温度で30分間染色を行い、その後、80℃の温度で20分間Fix処理を行い、最後に風合いの改良のため170℃の温度で30秒間熱処理を行った。
織物の経糸方向の伸長率を、JIS L1096織物の定荷重法(B法、2010年)に準じて測定した。ストレッチ性について以下3段階で評価した。なお、評価が「A」であると十分なストレッチ性を有することを表す。
A:15%以上
B:5%以上、15%未満
C:5%未満
ベテラン検査員による目視判定により、織物タテスジ品位を確認し、以下4段階で評価した。なお、評価が「A」および「B」であると実用レベルである。
A:良好
B:やや良好(欠点とはならないがスジが見える)
C:やや不良(染め斑やスジなどの欠点はあるが、欠点箇所を避けて裁断して用いる、或いは限定された色で使用することによって製品として使える)
D:不良(染め斑やスジなどの欠点が有り、製品としては使用できない)
結晶性ポリアミド(A)として相対粘度2.6、融点222℃、単独糸の沸騰水収縮率が13.0%、水分率50ppmのナイロン6(N6)を、結晶性ポリアミド(B)として相対粘度2.7、融点225℃、単独糸の沸騰水収縮率が7.0%である水分率1400ppmのナイロン610(N610)を用いた。結晶性ポリアミド(A)、結晶性ポリアミド(B)をそれぞれ溶融し、サイドバイサイド型複合繊維用紡糸口金(12孔、丸孔)を用いて、結晶性ポリアミド(A)と結晶性ポリアミド(B)の複合比率(質量比)=5:5で溶融吐出した(紡糸温度270℃)。口金から吐出された糸条は、糸条冷却装置で糸条を冷却固化し、表1に示す通り、2段の給油装置によりワックス成分を含む含水油剤を給油後、流体交絡ノズル装置で交絡を付与した後、引き取りローラー(室温25℃)にて3700m/分で引き取り、延伸ローラー(室温25℃)間で1.15倍に延伸を行った後で、巻取速度4000m/分でパッケージに巻き取りをおこなった。
63dtex12フィラメント、伸縮伸長率17.4%、湿熱収縮応力変動率100%のポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)の水分率を1100ppmとし、サイドバイサイド型複合繊維用紡糸口金(12孔、丸孔)で溶融吐出して延伸ローラー(室温25℃)間で1.10倍に延伸したこと以外は、実施例1と同じ方法で、63dtex12フィラメント、伸縮伸長率18.1%、湿熱収縮応力変動率110%のポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)の水分率を表1の通り変更した以外は実施例1と同じ方法で、ポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
表2の通り、偏心芯鞘型複合繊維用紡糸口金(12孔、丸孔)を用いて、紡糸温度290℃で溶融吐出し、2段給油の内、2段目の油剤を仮撚り用含水油剤で給油し、引き取りローラー(室温25℃)にて3000m/分で引き取り、延伸ローラー(室温25℃)間で1.20倍に延伸を行った後で、巻取速度3582m/分でパッケージに巻き取りをおこなった以外は、実施例1と同じ方法で、66dtex12フィラメント、伸縮伸長率19.5%、湿熱収縮応力変動率100%のポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)の水分率を表2の通り変更した以外は実施例5と同じ方法で、ポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
引き取りローラー速度を2218m/分、引き取りローラーと延伸ローラー間での延伸倍率を1.45倍、巻取速度3200m/分でパッケージに巻き取りをおこなった以外は実施例5と同じ方法でポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(A)と結晶性ポリアミド(B)のポリマーを入れ替えた以外は実施例5と同じ方法でポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)として相対粘度2.7、融点225℃、水分率200ppmのナイロン610(N610)を用いたこと以外は、実施例1と同じ方法で、63dtex12フィラメント、伸縮伸長率15.3%、湿熱収縮応力変動率210%のポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)の水分率を2000ppmとした以外は実施例1と同じ方法で、63dtex12フィラメント、伸縮伸長率17.1%、湿熱収縮応力変動率180%のポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)として相対粘度2.7、融点225℃、水分率200ppmのナイロン610(N610)を使用したこと以外は、実施例5と同じ方法で、66dtex12フィラメント、伸縮伸長率16.3%、湿熱収縮応力変動率200%のポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
結晶性ポリアミド(B)の水分率を2000ppmとした以外は実施例5と同じ方法で、66dtex12フィラメント、伸縮伸長率21.1%、湿熱収縮応力変動率170%のポリアミド潜在捲縮複合繊維糸条を得た。
B:結晶性ポリアミド(B)
Y:糸条
1:スピンブロック
2:紡糸口金
3:冷却装置
4-1:給油装置(1段目)
4-2:給油装置(2段目)
5:交絡ノズル装置
6:引き取りローラー
7:延伸ローラー
8:巻取装置
10a~10c:サイドバイサイド型の複合ポリアミド繊維
10d:偏心芯鞘型の複合ポリアミド繊維
11:偏心芯鞘型複合繊維の中心
12:芯部の中心
Claims (8)
- サイドバイサイド型または偏心芯鞘型の複合ポリアミド繊維からなり、湿熱収縮応力変動率が150%以下であるポリアミド捲縮糸。
- 収縮特性の異なる2種類のポリアミドがサイドバイサイド型または偏心芯鞘型に貼り合わされてなる請求項1記載のポリアミド捲縮糸。
- 湿熱収縮応力が0.001~0.50cN/dtexである請求項1または2記載のポリアミド捲縮糸。
- 伸縮伸長率が15~100%である請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載のポリアミド捲縮糸。
- 請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載のポリアミド捲縮糸からなる仮撚加工糸。
- 湿熱収縮応力変動率が150%以下である請求項5記載の仮撚加工糸。
- 伸縮伸長率が70~300%である請求項5記載の仮撚加工糸。
- 請求項7記載の仮撚加工糸を含む布帛。
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