WO2021017833A1 - Composition cosmétique anti-âge - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique anti-âge Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021017833A1
WO2021017833A1 PCT/CN2020/102177 CN2020102177W WO2021017833A1 WO 2021017833 A1 WO2021017833 A1 WO 2021017833A1 CN 2020102177 W CN2020102177 W CN 2020102177W WO 2021017833 A1 WO2021017833 A1 WO 2021017833A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
birch sap
aging
concentrated
cosmetic composition
birch
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PCT/CN2020/102177
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English (en)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
王莎莎
张正方
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浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司
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Publication of WO2021017833A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021017833A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a concentrated birch sap, and an anti-aging cosmetic composition containing the concentrated birch sap.
  • Birch is a deciduous tree of the birch family. There are currently about 100 species in the world, mainly distributed in the northern temperate zone and the cold temperate zone. Among them, there are about 29 varieties in my country, mainly distributed in the northeast, northwest, north and southwest. Birch trees are mostly grown in remote mountainous areas with little human intervention and no industrial pollution. Birch sap (also called birch sap) is the fresh sap from the birch bark being cut or the trunk is drilled. It is colorless or light yellow, free of precipitation and impurities, and has a light birch fragrance. Birch sap contains a large amount of sugars, amino acids, vitamins, biotin, cytokinins, trace mineral elements, aromatic oils, betulin, saponin and other compounds, which have good anti-aging effects.
  • Skin aging means that the skin's ability to protect and adjust to the body is reduced, and it cannot adapt to changes in internal and external environments, and changes in overall appearance such as color and shape. It is often manifested as reduced or disappeared skin elasticity, loose skin, increased wrinkles, and dry skin , Thinning, easy desquamation, itching, dull complexion, dull, and accompanied by stains and warts, affecting appearance and confidence. With the increasingly serious problem of population aging and the continuous improvement of living standards, consumers' anti-wrinkle awareness continues to increase, and more and more consumers are eager to use cosmetics to maintain their youthful appearance. According to statistics, anti-aging cosmetics have become the category with the fastest growth rate and greatest potential in the Chinese cosmetics market.
  • the present invention provides a concentrated birch sap with a concentration factor of about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, and more preferably about 1.2-2 times.
  • the concentrated birch sap has a significant anti-aging effect.
  • the birch sap involved in the present invention is obtained from the genus Betula, Betula alba, Betula pubescens, Betula pendula and Asian white birch (Betula platyphylla). Varieties.
  • the birch sap is a colorless, transparent, no-sediment-free, and no-drug sap that is artificially collected by drilling holes at the base of the trunk of the birch from thawing to early spring.
  • the birch sap is commercially available and used as it is, for example, it can be purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd.
  • the concentrated birch sap in the present invention is obtained by concentrating the above-mentioned commercial products. Concentration methods are known in the art, such as heating concentration, low-temperature vacuum concentration, membrane concentration and the like. In the present invention, the concentration is preferably carried out by a low-temperature freeze concentration or membrane concentration process. For example, the commercially available birch juice stock solution is input into a low-temperature drying equipment, the temperature is lowered to -40°C to -70°C, and the vacuum is applied to 0.1-30Pa. Concentrated in vacuum at low temperature to obtain concentrated birch sap with different concentration times.
  • the present inventors found that, compared with the unconcentrated birch tree sap, the concentrated birch sap has significantly better moisturizing and anti-aging effects, and it can promote collagen I, collagen in the extracellular matrix.
  • the synthesis of III, IV, VII, XVII, elastin, laminin, etc. reduce the expression of metal matrix protease MMP-1, promote the production of hyaluronic acid, and strengthen the structural integrity and functionality of the epidermis, dermis, and dermal-epidermal junctions , Improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, improve skin barrier, reduce transdermal water loss, anti-inflammatory and soothing effects.
  • controlling the concentration ratio of birch sap is key.
  • controlling the concentration ratio of birch sap is about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, more preferably about 1.2-2 times.
  • the present invention relates to the use of the concentrated birch sap in an anti-aging cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention also relates to an anti-aging cosmetic composition, which comprises (A) the concentrated birch sap.
  • the anti-aging cosmetic composition does not contain chelating agents such as EDTA salt, sodium polyphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, and gluconic acid.
  • chelating agents such as EDTA salt, sodium polyphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, and gluconic acid.
  • the anti-aging cosmetic composition does not contain any added water, but does not exclude the moisture inherently contained in each component.
  • the content of the concentrated birch sap is about 18-98% by weight, preferably 20-95% by weight, more preferably 22-90% by weight, most preferably 30-90% by weight, based on the total weight of the anti-aging cosmetic composition .
  • the anti-aging cosmetic composition may optionally contain (B) ingredients commonly used in skin care cosmetic compositions, including vehicles, active ingredients and auxiliary materials, etc. .
  • Component (B) is known in the art, and those skilled in the art can select its type and amount according to needs. For example, the content of component (B) is about 2-82% by weight, based on the anti-aging cosmetic composition The total weight.
  • the vehicle includes, for example, a diluent, a dispersant, or a carrier, and examples thereof include, but are not limited to, ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and the like.
  • the content of the vehicle in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 0.5-20% of the total weight of component (B).
  • the active ingredients include, for example, emollients, moisturizers, anti-aging active ingredients and the like.
  • emollient examples include, but are not limited to, olive oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, corn oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, white flower seed oil, safflower seed oil, Dogtooth rose hip oil, argan tree kernel oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, palm tree fruit oil, squalane, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isotene Hexane, isododecane, diethylhexyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, glycerol tri(ethylhexanoate) , Cetyl alcohol ethyl hexanoate, bis-diethoxy diethylene glycol cyclohexane
  • solid emollients include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, scylitol, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, beeswax, candelilla Tree wax, carnauba wax, lanolin, ozokerite, jojoba seed wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated rice bran wax, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, glyceryl behenate/eicosanate, myristyl alcohol One or more of myristate, bis-diglyceride polyacyl adipate-2, shea butter, and muluxing palm seed butter.
  • the content of the emollient in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 1-50% of the total weight of component (B).
  • moisturizer examples include, but are not limited to, glycerin, diglycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol Alcohol-32, methylglucitol-10, methylglucitol-20, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, glycerol-7, glycerol-26, glycerol glucoside, PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, sucrose, trehalose, rhamnose, mannose, raffinose, Betaine, erythritol, xylitol, urea, glyceryl polyether-5 lactate, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acetyl
  • anti-aging active ingredients include, but are not limited to, tocopherol (vitamin E), retinol, retinol palmitate, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed elastin, allantoin, yeast extract, oryzanol, tetrahydroturmeric Ellagic acid, ubiquinone, whey protein, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, salicyl sphingosine, birch sap concentrate, silymarin, silk protein, tocopherol phosphate Sodium, ribonucleic acid (RNA), dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzylamide diacetate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, oligopeptide-1, hexapeptide-9, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 , Grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed extract, PTEROCARPUS (MARSUPIUM) bark extract
  • the auxiliary materials include, for example, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes and the like.
  • emulsifier examples include, but are not limited to, cetearyl oleate, sorbitan oleate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-80, methylglucose sesquistearic acid Ester, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol-26, PEG-4 polyglycerol-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated Castor oil, steareth-2, steareth-21, PPG-13-decyltetradeceth-24, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, glycerin Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Coco Glucoside, Ceteareth-25, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl Glucose Distearate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyce
  • the thickener examples include, but are not limited to, carbomers, acrylic acid (ester) and its derivatives, xanthan gum, gum arabic, polyethylene glycol-14M, polyethylene glycol-90M, succinyl poly One or more of high molecular polymers such as sugar, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
  • the content of the thickener in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 0.1-10% of the total weight of the component (B).
  • preservatives examples include, but are not limited to, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, bis(hydroxymethyl)imidazolidinylurea, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, chlorobenzene Glycerol, sodium dehydroacetate, caprylic hydroxamic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, glyceryl caprylate, undecylenic acid
  • the content of the preservative in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 0.01-2% of the total weight of the component (B).
  • the anti-aging cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by any suitable method known in the art.
  • it can be prepared by dissolving tanks, emulsifying pots, dispersers, and delivery pumps commonly used in the cosmetics field.
  • dissolving tanks, emulsifying pots, dispersers, and delivery pumps commonly used in the cosmetics field When preparing, put the water-soluble substance into the water-phase dissolving kettle, and the oil-soluble substance into the oil-phase dissolving kettle, and heat the temperature of the two kettles to about 80°C.
  • a disperser Pre-dispersion. After the dissolution is completed, the oil phase and the water phase are transported to the emulsifying pot for homogenization and emulsification for about 5-15 minutes. After the emulsification is completed, the temperature of the material body is reduced to normal temperature, optional flavors, preservatives, etc. are added, and the pH of the product is adjusted as necessary.
  • the products can be filled and shipped only after the relevant test indicators are qualified.
  • the anti-aging cosmetic composition can be made into various dosage forms such as creams, creams, lotions, and essences.
  • Example 1 The effect of birch sap stock and concentrated birch sap on the expression of senescence-related genes
  • the fresh white birch sap stock purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd. is fed into low-temperature drying equipment, cooled to -65°C, vacuumed to 0.1Pa, and concentrated to 1.05 times, 1.1 times, 1.2 times, 1.5 times, and 2 Times, 4 times, 8 times.
  • Experimental reagents and consumables human primary fibroblasts, 6-well plates, fibroblast culture medium, RNA extraction kit, reverse transcription kit, Trizol lysis solution, etc.
  • Inoculation Inoculate cells into a 6-well plate at a seeding density of 5E5/well, and incubate overnight in a 37°C and 5% CO 2 incubator;
  • RNA is extracted, reverse transcribed to cDNA, and then subjected to fluorescence quantitative PCR detection;
  • the 2- ⁇ CT method is used for calculation of the results, and the T-Test method is used for statistical analysis.
  • the birch sap with a concentration of 1.1-4 times significantly increases the expression of senescence-related genes in basal fibroblasts, especially when the concentration is 1.2-2 times
  • the gene expression levels of collagen I, collagen III, collagen IV, collagen VII, elastin, and laminin are all significantly higher than that of birch sap.
  • Example 2 The effect of birch sap stock and concentrated birch sap on the expression of senescence-related proteins
  • the fresh white birch sap stock purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd. is fed into low-temperature drying equipment, cooled to -65°C, vacuumed to 0.1Pa, and concentrated to 1.05 times, 1.1 times, 1.2 times, 1.5 times, and 2 Times, 4 times, 8 times.
  • Experimental reagents and consumables human primary fibroblasts, 12-well plates, fibroblast culture medium, ELISA test kits with different indicators, etc.
  • test steps are as follows:
  • Inoculation Inoculate in a 12-well culture plate at an inoculation density of 2E5/well, culture in a 37°C and 5% CO2 incubator, and change the medium every two days;
  • T-Test method is used for statistical analysis.
  • birch sap with a concentration of 1.1-4 times can significantly increase the expression of basal fibroblasts and senescence-related proteins, especially when the concentration is 1.2-2 times , Collagen I, Collagen III, Collagen IV, Collagen VII, elastin, and laminin protein expression levels are all significantly higher than that of birch sap.
  • Example 3 The effect of birch sap stock and concentrated birch sap on tissues (reconstituted 3D full-thickness skin model)
  • the fresh birch sap stock solution purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd. is fed into the reverse osmosis circulation device, the operating pressure is controlled at 0.5-5bar, and the operating temperature is controlled at 20-35°C, and circulated until the birch sap is respectively concentrated to 1.1 Times, 1.2 times, 1.5 times, 2 times, 4 times.
  • test steps are as follows:
  • Modeling and drug administration When the model leaves the factory, that is, day 0, SSUV irradiation treatment (UVA: 30J/cm2; UVB: 50mJ/cm2) is carried out every day, and then a certain amount of samples are respectively coated on the corresponding model surface ,
  • the model control group is only coated with the model culture medium, each group has 6 multiple holes, and the total duration of action is 4 days;
  • T-Test method is used for statistical analysis.
  • the MTT value test results show that compared with the original birch sap, the birch sap with a concentration of 1.1-4 times can significantly improve the tissue viability of the reconstructed 3D full-thickness skin model. Similarly, the relative expression of collagen IV in the true epidermal junction of the 3D skin model using birch sap with a concentration of 1.1-4 times was significantly higher than that of the birch sap stock. The MMP-1 results showed that the 1.1-4 times concentrated birch sap was significantly lower than the original birch sap.
  • the formula of the anti-aging cream composition is shown in the following table:
  • the aforementioned anti-aging cream composition is prepared as follows:
  • Oil phase add 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 15, 21 raw materials into the oil phase pot, and heat to 80°C, dissolve and mix well;
  • Emulsification add the water phase and the oil phase to the emulsification tank, keep it at 80°C, homogenize emulsification at 3000rpm for 5 minutes, add No. 19 raw material after emulsification is complete;
  • step 3 The mixture of step 3 is added when the temperature is lowered to 40°C by stirring, and the mixture is uniformly stirred and then discharged to obtain the anti-aging cream composition.
  • the anti-aging cream composition can significantly improve the tissue viability of the recombinant 3D full-thickness skin model, promote the relative expression of collagen IV at the real epidermal junction, and reduce the expression of MMP-1 in the extracellular matrix. .
  • the formula of the anti-aging eye cream composition is shown in the following table:
  • the aforementioned anti-aging eye cream composition is prepared as follows:
  • Oil phase Add 3, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11 raw materials into the oil phase pot, and heat to 80°C, dissolve, and mix well;
  • Emulsification add the water phase and the oil phase to the emulsification tank, keep the temperature at 80°C, homogenize emulsification at 3000rpm for 5 minutes, add the 12 and 15 raw materials after the emulsification is completed;
  • step 6 Add the mixture of step 3 when stirring and cooling down to 40°C, stir evenly and then discharge to obtain the anti-aging eye cream composition.
  • Example 6 Anti-aging emulsion composition
  • the anti-aging emulsion composition described above is prepared as follows:
  • Oil phase add No. 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 13 raw materials into the oil phase pot, and heat to 80°C, dissolve, and mix well;
  • Emulsification add the water phase and the oil phase to the emulsification tank, keep the temperature at 80°C, homogenize and emulsify for 5 minutes at 3000 rpm, and add No. 15 raw material after the emulsification is completed;
  • step 6 Add the mixture of step 3 when stirring and cooling down to 40° C., stir evenly and then discharge to obtain the anti-aging emulsion composition.
  • the aforementioned anti-aging essence composition is prepared as follows:

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une sève de bouleau concentrée, ayant un facteur de concentration de 1,05 à 8. La sève de bouleau concentrée a un effet anti-âge significatif. La présente invention concerne également une composition cosmétique anti-âge comprenant cette sève de bouleau concentrée. La composition cosmétique présente un effet anti-âge significatif.
PCT/CN2020/102177 2019-07-30 2020-07-15 Composition cosmétique anti-âge WO2021017833A1 (fr)

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CN201910694725.8A CN110731928A (zh) 2019-07-30 2019-07-30 抗衰老化妆品组合物
CN201910694725.8 2019-07-30

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