WO2020048473A1 - 一种面料 - Google Patents

一种面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020048473A1
WO2020048473A1 PCT/CN2019/104298 CN2019104298W WO2020048473A1 WO 2020048473 A1 WO2020048473 A1 WO 2020048473A1 CN 2019104298 W CN2019104298 W CN 2019104298W WO 2020048473 A1 WO2020048473 A1 WO 2020048473A1
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Prior art keywords
fabric
fiber
filament
island
fibers
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PCT/CN2019/104298
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
顾金凤
景红川
张晴
倪庆美
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东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
东丽株式会社
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Application filed by 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司, 东丽株式会社 filed Critical 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
Priority to CN201980054923.6A priority Critical patent/CN112567084A/zh
Publication of WO2020048473A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020048473A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a fabric, in particular to a fabric with a more fluffy, softer and more delicate feel.
  • Superfine fibers due to their extremely low linear density and high specific surface area, are used for the production of artificial leather (suede), wiping cloth, and filter materials. Wait.
  • the suede fabric made of ultra-fine fibers not only has a soft hair feel, good waxiness and drape, but also has a thin texture, which is an ideal substitute for natural leather.
  • Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-171836 discloses a hetero-shrink mixed fiber yarn and a fabric made therefrom. Specifically, the ultra-fine fibers with coarse details obtained after the sea-island composite fibers are taken out of the sea are used as low-shrinkage filaments A, and the thick and uniform filaments without coarse details are used as high-shrinkage filaments B for blending, although fine Coarse details improve the openability, but the fluffiness and softness of the fabric are slightly insufficient.
  • Japanese Patent Document Laid-Open No. 2017-137601 discloses a mixed fiber yarn, a woven knitted fabric using the mixed fiber yarn, and a suede-like fabric.
  • a core is obtained by mixing fibers using at least two or more polyester filaments.
  • Sheath structured mixed filament the core polyester filament A has a boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more
  • the sheath polyester filament B is an island composite fiber composed of two polyester island components side by side. The juxtaposed island component can better improve the openability, but bunching phenomenon will still occur between the fibers, and the fluffiness and softness of the fabric need to be further improved.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a fabric with a more fluffy, softer and more delicate feel.
  • the fabric of the present invention is composed of at least mixed filaments, and the mixed filaments contain a variety of ultrafine fibers, wherein the diameter of the ultrafine fibers is less than 7 ⁇ m, and the ultrafine fibers include at least filaments with a filament length difference greater than 5%.
  • a and filament B are examples of the mixed filaments.
  • the invention uses mixed fiber filaments formed by superfine fibers containing a difference in silk length, the fibers are not easy to bundle, and the fabric is more fluffy; and the fiber diameter is relatively small, and the touch of the fabric is extremely delicate and soft.
  • FIG. 1 is a SEM photograph (50 times magnification) of the surface after fluffing according to the present invention.
  • Fig. 2 is a SEM photograph of the cross-section after raising (100 times magnification) according to the present invention.
  • the fabric of the present invention is composed of at least mixed fiber filaments, and the mixed fiber filaments contain multiple ultrafine fibers.
  • a variety of ultrafine fibers can be obtained by direct spinning, or can be obtained from sea-island composite fibers after seawater processing.
  • the sea-island composite fiber refers to a composite fiber having a form in which island components are scattered in the sea component in a point shape in a fiber cross section perpendicular to the fiber axis, and the mixed fibers appear dispersed among the single fibers after the fiber is removed from the sea. It is preferable because the state is unlikely to cause a bundling phenomenon.
  • the fiber-forming polymer of the sea component and the island component in the sea-island composite fiber is not particularly limited, and may be polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic acid, polyacrylonitrile, or the like.
  • the fiber-forming polymer that forms the sea component and the fiber-forming polymer that forms the island component have different solubility in the alkali solution.
  • the soluble component alkali-soluble component
  • the insoluble component alkali-insoluble) Composition
  • the conditions for sea clearance are not particularly limited, and can be selected as needed.
  • the diameter of the ultrafine fibers is less than 7 ⁇ m.
  • the diameter of the ultrafine fibers has a certain effect on the feel of the surface of the fabric, especially the fineness of the hairiness after fluffing. If the diameter of the ultra-fine fibers is 7 ⁇ m or more, the touch of the fabric is not delicate enough. Although the smaller the diameter of the ultra-fine fibers, the better the feel. However, the requirements for the spinning process will be higher, and the weaving or weaving process will be higher. There is a tendency for the occurrence of broken filaments to increase, and the tearing strength or bursting strength of the fabric will also be affected. Therefore, the diameter of the ultrafine fibers is preferably 3.0 ⁇ m to 6.0 ⁇ m.
  • the ultrafine fiber contains at least filament A and filament B having a filament length difference of more than 5%. If the difference in silk length is less than or equal to 5%, agglomeration occurs between single fibers, the gap is too small, the feel of the fabric is not fluffy, and the hairiness on the surface after fluffing is not rich. In addition, if the difference in silk length is too large, the degree of surface unevenness may be too large, and the texture may be rough, which may also cause hooking and fluffing, which may affect the texture. Therefore, in the present invention, the yarn length difference between the filament A and the filament B is preferably 6% to 30%, and more preferably 8% to 25%.
  • the difference in filament length between filament A and filament B may be brought by the direct spinning ultra-fine fibers with different boiling water shrinkage ratios, or it may be the shrinkage between the island components after the sea-island composite fiber is processed by sea. Poorly formed.
  • the boiling water shrinkage here refers to the shrinkage of the yarn in water at 60 to 135 ° C for 10 to 60 minutes.
  • the shrinkage difference between the island components is considered by using a plurality of island composite fibers with different island components to be processed separately from the sea, or it is realized by using the island composite fibers with different island components on a single fiber cross section to be directly processed off the sea.
  • the different island components that is, the island components are different fiber-forming polymers, and the types thereof are not particularly limited, as long as there is a difference in filament length between the ultrafine fibers formed by the island components after the sea removal.
  • fiber-forming polymers there may be two kinds, or three or more kinds.
  • the island component is two different polyester-based fiber-forming polymers. Compared with other types of fiber-forming polymers, when the island component is polyester, spinning is easier, the cost is lower, and the ideal yarn length difference can be obtained. If one of the island components is a polyester and the other is a polymer of other components such as polyamide, on the one hand, spinning is difficult, and on the other hand, a two-bath two-step method is required when dyeing the same color.
  • polyester-based fiber-forming polymers it is preferable that both are ordinary polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as ordinary PET), and the difference in melt viscosity between the two is 10 Pa ⁇ s or more. If the difference in melt viscosity is less than 10Pa ⁇ s, then the difference in shrinkage between the two island components is small, and the difference in silk length formed is relatively small, and the bulkiness and feel of the cloth surface tend to decrease. In addition, if the difference in melt viscosity is too large, productivity problems may occur. Therefore, in the present invention, the difference in melt viscosity is more preferably 10 to 120 Pa ⁇ s, and more preferably 25 to 85 Pa ⁇ s.
  • ordinary PET ordinary polyethylene terephthalate
  • polyester-based fiber-forming polymers As a specific combination of polyester-based fiber-forming polymers, from the perspective of ease of production and cost, one is preferably ordinary polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as ordinary PET), and the other is modified Polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as modified PET), ordinary polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as ordinary PTT), ordinary polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as ordinary PBT), modified Modified polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as modified PTT) or modified polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as modified PBT).
  • modified PET Polyethylene terephthalate
  • ordinary PTT ordinary polyethylene terephthalate
  • ordinary PBT ordinary polybutylene terephthalate
  • modified PTT modified Modified polytrimethylene terephthalate
  • modified PBT modified PTT
  • PET refers to a polymer obtained by polycondensation of a dibasic acid and a diol.
  • PTT refers to a polymer obtained by polymerizing terephthalic acid (PTA) with 1,3 propylene glycol (PDO).
  • PBT refers to a polymer obtained by polycondensation of 1.4-butanediol with terephthalic acid (PTA) or terephthalate (DMT).
  • Ordinary PET, Ordinary PTT and Ordinary PBT refer to the aforementioned polymers without any modification. Modified PET, modified PTT, and modified PBT are obtained by modifying polymers.
  • the modification here can be a third type of copolymerization component added to the original polymer for copolymerization modification, or it can be added titanium dioxide, silica, barium oxide, carbon black, dye, pigment, flame retardant, fluorescent whitening An agent, an antioxidant, an ultraviolet absorber, etc. are not specifically limited.
  • Adding a third type of copolymerization component for copolymerization modification may include adding an anionic group, such as a sulfonic acid group, on the basis of the chemical composition of ordinary PET (or ordinary PBT, or ordinary PTT).
  • the premixed filament has a core-sheath structure
  • the sheath yarn is the above-mentioned ultrafine fiber
  • the core yarn is a high-shrink polyester fiber or a high-shrink polyamide fiber.
  • Microfiber as the sheath yarn can ensure the feel of the fabric; the use of core yarn can maintain the tearing strength of the fabric on the one hand, and give the fabric a lumbar feel and a springback on the other.
  • the core yarn may be a spandex-containing elastic covering yarn, a high-shrinkage fiber, or the like.
  • the high-shrink fiber refers to a fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of more than 15%.
  • the fiber raw material may be polyester, polyamide, or the like.
  • the core yarn when the mixed fiber filament has a core-sheath structure, the core yarn has a shorter filament length than the sheath yarn, that is, the smallest of the three kinds of long fibers.
  • the difference in silk length between the core yarn and the sheath yarn is preferably 5% to 50%.
  • the silk length difference here means a difference in length between the core yarn and the sheath yarn having the shorter length. If the difference in silk length is less than 5%, the surface hairiness may be short after fluffing, which affects the feel of the cloth. If the difference in silk length is more than 50%, the hairiness of the sheath yarn after fluffing is easy to roll up, and the degree of fineness in the feel is fine. Downward trend. In the present invention, the difference in silk length is more preferably 8% to 30%.
  • the single fiber diameter of the core yarn is preferably 10 ⁇ m to 80 ⁇ m. If the single fiber diameter of the core yarn is less than 10 ⁇ m, the tear strength or bursting strength of the fabric tends to decrease, and the lumbar texture and resilience also tend to decrease; while if the single fiber diameter exceeds 80 ⁇ m, the fabric feel may be worse .
  • the surface of the fabric in the present invention has hairiness of 50 ⁇ m or more on the surface. This is to consider that if the hairiness is less than 50 ⁇ m, the fineness of the fabric will tend to decrease. In addition, if the hairiness height exceeds 200 ⁇ m, bunching and knotting may occur. Therefore, the hairiness height is more preferably 60 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m.
  • the hairiness here can be obtained by raising. The raising method is not particularly limited, and for example, sandpaper can be used.
  • the fluffed fabric has a suede style.
  • the structure of the fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be plain weave, twill, satin, etc., or weft stitch, rib, double reverse, double rib, etc. Among them, the satin structure is preferred, and the mixed fiber floats on the surface, and after raising Faux suede feels more delicate and soft.
  • the fabric of the present invention contains the above-mentioned mixed fiber filaments in whole or in part. When the above-mentioned mixed filament is used with other yarns, the other yarns are not particularly limited.
  • the fabric of the present invention can be selected for resin processing according to the application.
  • resin processing such as soft resin, water-absorbing resin, waterproof resin, etc.
  • the kind of resin is not particularly limited.
  • the fabric of the present invention can be used to make jackets, pants, skirts, vests, quilts, pillow cases, sleeping bags, underwear, pajamas, wiping cloths, yoga towels, and the like.
  • test methods for various physical properties according to the present invention are as follows.
  • the weight per unit length was measured in an atmosphere of 65% RH, and a weight equivalent to 10,000 m was calculated.
  • the monofilament fineness was calculated by dividing the weight of the mixed filament by the number (corresponding to the number of islands) present in the fiber bundle. The same operation was repeated 10 times, and the average value was taken.
  • the moisture content of the fibers was reduced to 200 ppm or less by a vacuum dryer, and the deformation speed was changed stepwise by a Toyo Seiki CAPILOGRAPH (capillary rheometer) to measure the melt viscosity. Specifically, the measurement is performed under the condition of 1216s -1 , and the measurement is performed in a nitrogen atmosphere at an interval of 5 minutes from the time when the sample is put into the heating furnace to the start of the measurement.
  • boiling water shrinkage (L-10) * 100/10.
  • An ordinary PTT with a melt viscosity of 100 Pa ⁇ s was used as the island component A
  • an ordinary PET with a melt viscosity of 140 Pa ⁇ s was used as the island component B
  • a copolymer of sodium polyisophthalate 5-sulfonate 8.0 mol% and a polyethylene glycol of 1000 10% by weight of PET (melt viscosity: 80Pa ⁇ s) was used as the sea component, and each component was melted at 280 ° C. After being measured, it was discharged through the island composite fiber double island spinning module, and the island component A / island component B / sea component The compound ratio is adjusted so that the discharge volume is 40/40/20 by weight (total discharge volume 56g / min).
  • the melt-discharged filaments are cooled and solidified, and then an oil agent is added.
  • the FDY spinning method is used for one-step stretching. Shaped, stretched to 3.2 times between rollers heated to 90 ° C and 130 ° C (spinning speed 1300m / min), and wound up at a winding speed of 4000m / min to obtain island composite fibers of 70dtex-12f-48 islands .
  • the above sea-island composite fiber was selected as the warp yarn, 56dtex-24f-PBT and FDY were used as the weft yarn, and five 2 fly satin weaves were used to weave at a warp and weft density of 228 * 94 pieces / inch.
  • the obtained grey fabric was first scoured at 80 ° C * 20 minutes, then relaxed at 130 ° C * 30 minutes, and then subjected to alkali reduction at 90 ° C * 20 minutes and a solid caustic soda concentration of 1%, followed by 190 ° C.
  • the mixed-fiber yarn obtained by blending and intermingling the sea-island composite fiber of Example 1 with 33 dtex-6f-PET FDY having a diameter of 22 ⁇ m and a boiling water shrinkage of 21% was used as a warp yarn, and the mixed-fiber processing condition was 3 kg. / m 2 , speed 500 m / min, overfeed rate 1.3%, the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 1.
  • the 70dtex-12f-48 island sea-island composite fiber was replaced with 70dtex-6f-48 island-island composite fiber, and the remaining conditions were the same as in Example 2 to obtain the fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 1.
  • the island component A was replaced with ordinary PBT having a melt viscosity of 80 Pa ⁇ s, and the island component B was replaced with ordinary PET having a melt viscosity of 160 Pa ⁇ s.
  • the rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain the fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 1.
  • the island component A was replaced with ordinary PET having a melt viscosity of 115 Pa ⁇ s, and the rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain the fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 1.
  • the island component A was replaced with ordinary PET having a melt viscosity of 135 Pa ⁇ s, and the rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain the fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 1.
  • the warp and weft yarns were all selected from 70 dtex-12f-sea-island composite fibers, and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 2.
  • 44dtex-96f-PET FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 4% and 44dtex-96f-PTT FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 12% are selected as the warp yarns.
  • the mixed fiber entanglement processing conditions It was 3 kg / m 2 , speed was 500 m / min, and overfeed rate was 1.3%. The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 2 70 dtex-12f-48 island sea-island composite fiber was replaced with 70 dtex-12f-24 island-island composite fiber, and the rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain a fabric.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 2
  • 33dtex-48f-PET FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 10% and 75dtex-24f-PTT FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 12% are selected as the warp yarns, and the mixed fiber entanglement processing conditions It was 3 kg / m 2 , the speed was 500 m / min, and the overfeed rate was 1.3%. The rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain a fabric.
  • the performance test results are shown in Table 2.
  • the island component A was replaced with ordinary PET having a melt viscosity of 140 Pa ⁇ s, and the gold was adjusted to obtain an island composite fiber of 70 dtex-12f-24 island. The rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain a fabric.
  • Example 2 As can be seen from Example 2 and Example 1, under the same conditions, the fabric obtained by using the mixed fibers of sea-island composite fibers / high-shrinkage fibers is compared with the fabric obtained by using the mixed fibers of only sea-island composite fibers. The feel, hair height and tear strength are better than the latter.
  • Example 1 and Example 12 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 12 that under the same conditions, the fabric obtained using sea-island composite fibers and the fabric obtained using direct-spun yarns have the same hairiness, and the former has the same feel and tear strength. Both are better than the latter.
  • Example 3 It can be known from Example 1 and Example 11 that under the same conditions, the fabric obtained by fuzzing has a higher tear strength than the fabric obtained without fuzzing. The former has a higher hairiness and feels better Those who are better.
  • Example 5 As can be seen from Example 5 and Example 7, under the same conditions, the fabric obtained by using the island composite fiber having an island component melt viscosity difference of 25 Pa ⁇ s is compared with the fabric obtained by using an island component melt viscosity difference of 5 Pa ⁇ s.
  • the hairiness and tear strength of the two are similar, the former feels better than the latter.
  • Example 1 As can be seen from Example 1 and Example 10, under the same conditions, the fabric with only mixed warp yarns using mixed fiber yarns has almost the same tear strength as the entire fabric with mixed fiber yarns, and the latter has a high hairiness. The hand feels softer and more delicate.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

一种面料，该面料至少由混纤丝构成，该混纤丝中含有多种超细纤维，其中，前述多种超细纤维的直径小于7μm，且其中至少含有丝长差大于5％的长丝A和长丝B。该面料手感更加蓬松、更加柔软细腻。

Description

一种面料 技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料，具体涉及一种手感更加蓬松、更加柔软细腻的面料。
背景技术
超细纤维，由于具有极小的线密度和较高的比表面积，由其形成的面料手感柔软、色调柔和等特性，被广泛用于生产人工皮革(仿麂皮绒)、擦拭布、过滤材料等。其中，超细纤维制成的仿麂皮绒面料，不但具有柔软的毛感、良好的糯性和悬垂性，而且质地轻薄，是天然皮革的理想替代品。
目前，对仿麂皮绒面料的研究也有很多。如日本专利文献特开2003-171836中公开了一种异收缩混纤丝及由其制得的面料。具体是将海岛复合纤维脱海后得到的具有粗细节的极细纤维作为低收缩长丝A，不具有粗细节的粗纤度均一长丝作为高收缩长丝B进行混纤，虽然可以利用细小的粗细节提高开纤性，但是面料的蓬松性以及柔软度等略有不足。日本专利文献特开2017-137601中公开了一种混纤丝、使用该混纤丝的机织针织物以及仿麂皮绒面料，通过使用至少2种以上的聚酯长丝进行混纤得到芯鞘结构的混纤丝，芯部聚酯长丝A具有15％以上的沸水收缩率，鞘部聚酯长丝B为岛部由两种聚酯岛成分并列复合而成的海岛复合纤维，虽然并列型岛成分可以更好地提高开纤性，但是纤维间还是会出现集束现象，面料的蓬松性以及柔软度等还 需进一步改善。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种手感更加蓬松、更加柔软细腻的面料。
本发明的面料，至少由混纤丝构成，该混纤丝中含有多种超细纤维，其中，超细纤维的直径小于7μm，且超细纤维中至少包括丝长差大于5％的长丝A和长丝B。
本发明利用含有丝长差的超细纤维形成的混纤丝，纤维之间不易集束，面料更加蓬松；而且纤维直径比较小，面料的触感极为细腻柔软。
附图说明
图1为本发明起毛后表面SEM写真(倍率50倍)。
图2为本发明起毛后断面SEM写真(倍率100倍)。
具体实施方式
本发明的面料，至少由混纤丝构成，混纤丝中含有多种超细纤维。这里的多种超细纤维可以是通过直接纺丝得到的，也可以是由海岛复合纤维经过脱海加工后得到。其中，海岛复合纤维是指，与纤维轴垂直方向的纤维截面中具有岛成分以点状散布在海成分中的形态的复合纤维，在脱海开纤后单纤维之间呈现出分散的混纤状态，不易出现集束现象，因此作为优选。海岛复合纤维中海成分和岛成分的成纤聚合物没有特别限定，可以是聚酯、聚酰胺、聚丙烯酸、聚丙烯腈等。形成海成分的成纤聚合物与形成岛成分的成纤聚合物对碱溶液具有 不同的溶解性，脱海过程中，易溶性成分(碱易溶性成分)被去除，不可溶性成分(碱难溶性成分)形成超细纤维。本发明中，脱海条件没有特别限定，可根据需要进行选择。脱海条件，优选采用浓度为0.1～5.0％NaOH水溶液，处理温度为70～135℃、时间5～60分钟。
本发明中，超细纤维的直径小于7μm。超细纤维的直径大小对面料表面的手感，特别是起毛后毛羽的细腻程度等有一定影响。如果超细纤维的直径大于等于7μm的话，面料的触感不够细腻，虽然说超细纤维的直径越小，手感越好，但这样对纺丝工艺的要求就会比较高，而且在织造或编织过程中断丝发生几率有增加的趋势，面料的撕裂强力或胀破强度也会受到影响。因此，优选超细纤维的直径为3.0μm～6.0μm。
本发明中，超细纤维中至少含有丝长差大于5％的长丝A和长丝B。如果丝长差小于等于5％的话,单纤维之间发生集聚，空隙过小，面料的手感不够蓬松，而且起毛加工后表面的毛羽不够丰富。另外，丝长差过大的话，也有可能出现表面凹凸程度过大，手感粗糙，还会引起勾丝，起毛起球，影响手感。因此，本发明中长丝A和长丝B之间的丝长差优选为6％～30％，更优选为8％～25％。
本发明中，长丝A和长丝B之间的丝长差可以是具有不同沸水收缩率的直纺超细纤维带来的，也可以是海岛复合纤维脱海加工后岛成分之间的收缩差形成的。这里的沸水收缩率是指纱线在60～135℃的水中处理10～60分钟的收缩率。
本发明中，岛成分之间的收缩差考虑采用不同岛成分的多根海岛 复合纤维分别脱海加工，或者是采用由单纤维截面上具有不同岛成分的海岛复合纤维直接脱海加工来实现。其中，不同岛成分，即岛成分为不同的成纤聚合物，其种类没有特别限定，只要脱海后岛成分形成的超细纤维之间具有丝长差即可。当然，作为具体的成纤聚合物的组合，可以是两种，也可以是三种以上。
作为优选，岛成分为两种不同的聚酯系成纤聚合物。跟其他种类的成纤聚合物相比，岛成分为聚酯时，纺丝比较容易，成本低廉，可以得到理想的丝长差。如果岛成分一种为聚酯，另一种为聚酰胺等其他成分的聚合物的话，一方面纺丝比较困难，另一方面染同色时需采取两浴两步法。
作为具体的聚酯系成纤聚合物的组合，优选均为普通聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(以下简称普通PET)，且两者间的熔融粘度差在10Pa·s以上。如果熔融粘度差小于10Pa·s，那么两种岛成分的收缩差较小，形成的丝长差也就会比较小，布面的蓬松度以及手感有下降的趋势。另外，如果熔融粘度差过大的话，可能会存在生产性方面的问题，因此，本发明中进一步优选熔融粘度差为10～120Pa·s，更优选为25～85Pa·s。
作为具体的聚酯系成纤聚合物的组合，从生产的容易程度和成本来考虑，优选一种为普通聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(以下简称普通PET)，另一种为改性聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(以下简称改性PET)、普通聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(以下简称普通PTT)、普通聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(以下简称普通PBT)、改性聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(以下简称 改性PTT)或者改性聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(以下简称改性PBT)。
本发明中，PET是指由二元酸和二元醇缩聚而成的聚合物。PTT是指对苯二甲酸(PTA)与1,3丙二醇(PDO)聚合而成的聚合物。PBT是指由1.4-丁二醇与对苯二甲酸(PTA)或者对苯二甲酸酯(DMT)聚缩合而成的聚合物。普通PET、普通PTT以及普通PBT是指上述未经任何改性的聚合物。改性PET、改性PTT以及改性PBT则是通过对聚合物进行改性后得到的。这里的改性可以是在原来的聚合物中添加第三类共聚成分进行共聚改性，也可以是添加二氧化钛、二氧化硅、氧化钡、炭黑、染料、颜料、阻燃剂、荧光增白剂、抗氧化剂、紫外线吸收剂等，没有特别限定。添加第三类共聚成分进行共聚改性可以列举的是在普通PET(或普通PBT、或普通PTT)的化学组成的基础上，添加阴离子基团，如磺酸基等。
本发明中，优选前记混纤丝具有芯鞘结构，鞘纱为上述超细纤维、芯纱为高收缩聚酯纤维或高收缩聚酰胺纤维。超细纤维作为鞘纱，可以保证面料的手感；而芯纱的使用，一方面可以维持面料的撕裂强力，另一方面可以赋予面料腰骨感、回弹感。芯纱可以是含氨纶的弹性包覆纱、高收缩纤维等。其中高收缩纤维是指沸水收缩率大于15％的纤维，其纤维原料可以是聚酯、聚酰胺等。
本发明中，混纤丝为芯鞘结构时，芯纱的丝长小于鞘纱，即为3种长纤维中长度最小的一方。本发明中芯纱与鞘纱的两者之间的丝长差优选5％～50％。这里的丝长差是指芯纱与鞘纱中长度短的一方之间的长度差。如果丝长差小于5％，起毛后有可能会出现表面毛羽偏短的 现象，影响布面手感；而丝长差超过50％的话，起毛后鞘纱的毛羽容易打卷，手感的细腻程度有下降的趋势。本发明中，丝长差更优选为8％～30％。
本发明中，芯纱的单纤维直径优选为10μm～80μm。如果芯纱的单纤维直径小于10μm的话，面料的撕裂强力或胀破强度有降低的趋势，腰骨感和回弹性也有降低的趋势；而单纤维直径超过80μm的话，面料的手感有可能变差。
作为优选，本发明中面料表面上具有高度为50μm以上毛羽。这是考虑到如果毛羽高度小于50μm的话，面料的手感细腻度有下降的趋势。另外，如果毛羽高度超过200μm的话，有可能出现集束、打结的现象，因此更优选毛羽高度为60μm～200μm。这里的毛羽可通过起毛加工得到。起毛加工方式没有特别限定，如利用砂皮纸等都可以。起毛后的面料具有麂皮绒的风格。
本发明的面料组织没有特别限定，可以为平纹、斜纹、缎纹等，也可以是纬平针、罗纹、双反面、双罗纹等，其中优选缎纹组织，混纤丝浮于表面，起毛后仿麂皮绒手感更为细腻柔软。本发明的面料中全部或部分含有上述混纤丝。当上述混纤丝与其他纱线一起使用时，其他纱线没有特别限定。
本发明的面料，可根据用途选择树脂加工。如柔软树脂、吸水树脂、防水树脂等。树脂的种类没有特别的限定。
本发明的面料可用于制作外套、裤子、裙子、背心、被套、枕套、睡袋、内衣、睡衣、擦拭布以及瑜伽毛巾等。
下面结合实施例及比较例对本发明对进一步说明。
本发明中所涉及的各物性的测试方法如下所示。
(1)丝长差
从非起毛面料中直接抽取含超细纤维的混纤丝或者从起毛面料中抽取毛羽未被割断的含超细纤维的混纤丝，将其安装在测长台上，吊上1/10g/旦尼尔的荷重，切3cm长，然后利用放大镜观察，挑出2种长短的纤维各10根(如果混纤丝为芯鞘结构，则挑出3种长短的纤维各10根)。在测长玻璃板上滴几滴丙三醇，用手拉伸使之没有卷曲，读取它的长度，取平均值，按照长短分别记为L1、L2和L3，然后根据(L1-L2)*100/L2，计算出长丝A与长丝B之间的丝长差；再根据(L2-L3)*100/L3，计算出芯纱与鞘纱之间的丝长差。
(2)长丝A或长丝B的单纤维直径
从非起毛面料中直接抽取含超细纤维的混纤丝或者从起毛面料中抽取毛羽未被割断的含超细纤维的混纤丝，将其安装在测长台上，在温度20℃、湿度65％RH的气氛中测定单位长度的重量，计算出相当于10000m的重量。将混纤丝的重量除以纤维束中存在的根数(相当于岛数)，计算出单丝纤度。将同样的操作重复进行10次，取平均值。
(3)毛羽高度
取1cm*1cm的面料作为测试样，将SEM电子扫描镜的倍率调节到100倍进行断面拍摄，然后用测长工具测得毛羽的高度。
(4)手感
找20人对面料进行手感评价，根据面料表面的细腻和柔软程度进 行判断。其中，10人以上认为细腻和柔软则为优，记为◎，5～9人认为细腻和柔软则为良，记为○，2～4人认为细腻和柔软则为一般，记为△，少于2人认为细腻和柔软则为差，记为╳。
(5)撕裂强力
根据JIS L 1096法(2001)测定。
(6)聚合物的熔融粘度
从非起毛面料中直接抽取含超细纤维的混纤丝或者从起毛面料中抽取毛羽未被割断的含超细纤维的混纤丝，分出单纤维进行测试。通过真空干燥机使纤维的水分率为200ppm以下，通过东洋精机制CAPILOGRAPH(毛细管流变仪)，分阶段地改变变形速度，测定熔融粘度。具体为在1216s -1的条件下测定，从将试样投入加热炉到开始测定，中间间隔5分钟，在氮气氛围中进行测定。
(7)沸水收缩率
取长10米的原丝3根，将其中1根放入100℃沸水中煮30分钟，取出自然晾干后测其长度,然后再按照上述方法测出余下两根的长度，取平均值L，根据如下公式计算出纱线的沸水收缩率，沸水收缩率＝(L-10)*100/10。
实施例1
使用熔融粘度100Pa·s的普通PTT作为岛成分A，使用熔融粘度140Pa·s普通PET的作为岛成分B，使用共聚间苯二甲酸5-磺酸钠8.0mol％和分子量1000的聚乙二醇10wt％的PET(熔融粘度：80Pa·s)作为海成分，将各成分分别在280℃下熔融，计量后经过海岛复合纤 维双岛纺丝模块排出，岛成分A/岛成分B/海成分的复合比，以使排出量为重量比40/40/20那样进行调整(总排出量56g/min)，将熔融排出的丝条冷却固化，然后赋予油剂，以FDY纺丝法进行一步法延伸定型，在加热到90℃和130℃的辊间拉伸到3.2倍(纺丝速度1300m/分钟)，以4000m/分钟的卷取速度进行卷取，得到70dtex-12f-48岛的海岛复合纤维。
选用上述海岛复合纤维作为经纱，56dtex-24f-PBT FDY作为纬纱，采用5枚2飞的缎纹组织，经纬密度228*94根/inch条件下进行织造。将得到的坯布先在80℃*20分钟条件下精练，再进行130℃*30分钟的松弛，然后在90℃*20分钟、固体烧碱浓度为1％条件下进行碱减量，接着进行190℃*1分钟的中间定型，使用#400的砂皮纸2回起毛，再在135℃*60分钟条件下染色(染料用量8％o.w.f.)，柔软树脂加工(树脂用量20g/L)，最后在170℃条件下定型1分钟，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表1。
实施例2
将实施例1的海岛复合纤维与直径为22μm、沸水收缩率为21％的33dtex-6f-PET FDY进行混纤交络加工后得到的混纤丝作为经纱，其中混纤交络加工条件为3kg/m 2、速度500m/min、超喂率1.3％，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表1。
实施例3
将70dtex-12f-48岛的海岛复合纤维替换为70dtex-6f-48岛的海岛复合纤维，其余条件同实施例2，得到本发明的面料。各性能测 试结果见表1。
实施例4
将岛成分A替换为熔融粘度为80Pa·s的普通PBT，岛成分B替换为熔融粘度为160Pa·s的普通PET，其余同实施例2，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表1。
实施例5
将岛成分A替换为熔融粘度为115Pa·s的普通PET，其余同实施例2，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表1。
实施例6
将沸水收缩率为21％的33dtex-6f-PET FDY替换为沸水收缩率为30％的33dtex-12f-PET DTY，其余同实施例2，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表1。
实施例7
将岛成分A替换为熔融粘度为135Pa·s的普通PET，其余同实施例2，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表1。
实施例8
将沸水收缩率为21％的33dtex-6f-PET FDY替换为沸水收缩率为30％的100dtex-6f-PET FDY，其余同实施例2，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表2。
实施例9
将沸水收缩率为21％的33dtex-6f-PET FDY替换为沸水收缩率为32％的150dtex-6f-PET FDY，其余同实施例2，得到本发明的面料。 各性能测试结果见表2。
实施例10
经纬纱均选用70dtex-12f-海岛复合纤维，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表2。
实施例11
未进行起毛加工，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表2。
实施例12
选用沸水收缩率为4％的44dtex-96f-PET FDY和沸水收缩率为12％的44dtex-96f-PTT FDY进行混纤交络加工后得到的混纤丝作为经纱，其中混纤交络加工条件为3kg/m 2、速度500m/min、超喂率1.3％，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的面料。各性能测试结果见表2。
比较例1
将70dtex-12f-48岛的海岛复合纤维替换为70dtex-12f-24岛的海岛复合纤维，其余同实施例2，得到面料。各性能测试结果见表2。比较例2
选用沸水收缩率为10％的33dtex-48f-PET FDY和沸水收缩率为12％的75dtex-24f-PTT FDY进行混纤交络加工后得到的混纤丝作为经纱，其中混纤交络加工条件为3kg/m 2、速度500m/min、超喂率1.3％，其余同实施例2，得到面料。各性能测试结果见表2。
比较例3
将岛成分A替换为熔融粘度140Pa·s的普通PET,并调整口金得 到70dtex-12f-24岛的海岛复合纤维，其余同实施例2，得到面料。
各性能测试结果见表2。
Figure PCTCN2019104298-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2019104298-appb-000002
根据上表，
(1)由实施例2与实施例1可知，同等条件下，使用海岛复合纤维/高收缩纤维的混纤丝得到的面料与使用仅有海岛复合纤维的混纤丝得到的面料相比，前者的手感、毛羽高度以及撕裂强力均优于后者。
(2)由实施例1与实施例12可知，同等条件下，使用海岛复合纤维得到的面料与使用直纺纱线得到的面料相比，两者的毛羽高度差不多，前者的手感和撕裂强力均优于后者。
(3)由实施例1与实施例11可知，同等条件下，通过起毛加工得到的面料与未经起毛加工得到的面料相比，两者撕裂强力差不多，前者的毛羽高，而且手感比后者要好。
(4)由实施例5与实施例7可知，同等条件下，使用岛成分熔融粘度差为25Pa·s的海岛复合纤维得到的面料与岛成分熔融粘度差为5Pa·s得到的面料相比，两者毛羽高度以及撕裂强力差不多，前者的手感比后者要好。
(5)由实施例1与实施例10可知，同等条件下，仅经纱使用混纤丝的面料与全部使用混纤丝的面料相比，两者撕裂强力差不多，后者的毛羽高，后者的手感更加柔软、更为细腻。
(6)由比较例1与实施例3可知，同等条件下，使用岛成分直径为12μm的海岛复合纤维得到的面料与使用岛成分直径为6μm的海岛复合纤维得到的面料相比，虽然两者毛羽高度差不多，前者的撕裂强力高于后者，但是前者集束现象严重，手感差。
(7)由比较例2与实施例12可知，同等条件下，同等条件下，使用丝长差为2％的混纤丝得到的面料与使用丝长差为8％的混纤丝得到的面料相比，虽然两者撕裂强力以及毛羽高度差不多，但前者的手感差。
(8)由比较例3与实施例3可知，同等条件下，使用岛成分直径为12μm的海岛复合纤维、丝A和丝B的丝长差为2％得到的面料与使用 岛成分直径为6μm、丝A和丝B的丝长差为10％的海岛复合纤维得到的面料相比，虽然两者毛羽高度以及撕裂强力差不多，但是前者发生集束现象严重，手感差。

Claims (7)

  1. 一种面料，至少由混纤丝构成，其特征是：所述混纤丝中含有多种超细纤维，所述多种超细纤维的直径小于7μm，且所述多种超细纤维中至少含有丝长差大于5％的长丝A和长丝B。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述面料，其特征是：所述长丝A和所述长丝B是脱海后的海岛复合纤维的岛成分。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述面料，其特征是：所述岛成分为两种不同的聚酯系成纤聚合物。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述面料，其特征是：所述两种不同的聚酯系成纤聚合物均为普通聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯，两者间的熔融粘度差在10Pa·s以上。
  5. 根据权利要求3所述面料，其特征是：所述两种不同的聚酯系成纤聚合物，一种为普通聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯，另一种为改性聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯、普通聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯、普通聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯、改性聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯或者改性聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述面料，其特征是：所述混纤丝为芯鞘结构，其中鞘纱为所述超细纤维、芯纱为高收缩聚酯纤维或高收缩聚酰胺纤维。
  7. 根据权利要求1～6中任一项所述面料，其特征是：所述面料表面上毛羽的高度为50μm以上。
PCT/CN2019/104298 2018-09-06 2019-09-04 一种面料 WO2020048473A1 (zh)

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