WO2018010106A1 - 一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018010106A1
WO2018010106A1 PCT/CN2016/089864 CN2016089864W WO2018010106A1 WO 2018010106 A1 WO2018010106 A1 WO 2018010106A1 CN 2016089864 W CN2016089864 W CN 2016089864W WO 2018010106 A1 WO2018010106 A1 WO 2018010106A1
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Prior art keywords
stockings
spandex
yarn
group
winding
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PCT/CN2016/089864
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
李官廷
李磊
李玉德
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芦山华美包纱有限公司
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Priority to PCT/CN2016/089864 priority Critical patent/WO2018010106A1/zh
Publication of WO2018010106A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018010106A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a production process of a covered yarn
  • the covered yarns used in the stockings are all nylon covered yarns, that is, the nylon yarns are evenly coated on the outside of the spandex yarn according to the set twist.
  • the covered yarns are usually expressed in the industry: 2008/5; 20 is the spandex D The number indicates the 20D spandex yarn used; 08 is the D number of the nylon, indicating the 8D nylon yarn, and /5 is the number of holes of the nylon yarn, indicating that the 8D nylon yarn is 5 holes. Other specifications and so on.
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a production process for uniformly weaving four-way silk stocking covered yarn.
  • the technical solution adopted by the present invention to solve the technical problem thereof is:
  • the invention relates to a production process for knitting uniformly covering four-way stockings covered yarn, which is characterized in that the stockings are obtained by the steps of raw material matching, winding, drawing, twisting, winding and weaving, and the detailed production thereof is completed.
  • the process is as follows:
  • Raw material matching including two sets of spandex and two sets of outsourced nylon yarn;
  • the first group of spandex filaments has a fineness of 20D-70D, and the second group of spandex filaments has a fineness of 10D-15D;
  • the denier of the outsourced nylon yarn is 5-12D, and the two sets of outsourced nylon yarns may have the same fineness or the first group of nylon filaments may be slightly thicker than the second group; if the second group of spandex yarns adopts a low twist processing method, the second Group of nylon yarns should choose the same fineness and low pore number of nylon yarn to prevent hooking;
  • the first group of spandex yarns are made of elastic spandex, the draw ratio is set at 2.0-2.5; the second group of spandex yarns is made of weaker spandex yarn, and the draft ratio is set at 3.0-3.5;
  • Twisting The two raw materials are matched by two identical or two different twists, and the twist is set at 1700-2100. The size of the twist can ensure the texture of the knitted silk socks is clear, and the silk socks are comfortable to handle;
  • Winding Winding according to the method of winding the stockings, after the production is completed, the doffing inspection is carried out and placed in a 40 ° C heat preservation room for 16 hours, and then packaged to obtain the desired covered yarn;
  • the first group of spandex yarns are selected from dry-spun spandex yarns; the second group of spandex yarns is selected from melt-spun spandex yarns;
  • the winding step uses a HKV101C type winder and winds the nylon yarn according to a conventional process; in the drawing step, the first group of spandex yarns is selected from the LYCRA brand 1A074 batch. Anti-de-spandex yarn, the draft ratio is set to 3.4; the second group of spandex yarn is selected from MOMLON brand 1M281 batch of anti-deaminization yarn, and the draft ratio is set to 2.2.
  • the knitting setting step 1) before using the covered yarn, the covered yarn is placed in the hosiery workshop, and the package is opened and balanced in the environment of 20-25 ° C for more than 5 days.
  • the speed of the automatic yarn feeder is controlled between 400-500 rpm; 3)
  • the elastic yarn in the relaxed shape shrinks accurately, eliminate residual stress, prevent hooking, improve elasticity, and facilitate the sewing process of the back channel Uniformity; after shrinking, the socks are sewn, bagged and dyed; 4) in the dyeing process, in order to avoid damage to the elastic fiber spandex, the weak acid dye is selected to be dyed at a lower temperature of 70-90 ° C; 5)
  • a dye-affinity non-ionic leveling agent is selected to obtain a good appearance, and the weight of the fabric is used after dyeing. 4-8% tannic acid and 2-4% tartar to enhance fixation or two-step fixation to enhance rubbing fastness and wash fastness.
  • the finishing is performed by using a microcapsule-type finishing agent having a fabric weight of 2-4% to improve the static problem of the stockings, thereby reducing the spinning and making the wearing effect more comfortable.
  • twisting step different twist ratios are used to make a relatively thick raw material adopt a large twist, a thinner raw material adopts a small twist, and the last step is in a winding forming process.
  • the invention has the following characteristics:
  • the method of using the spandex with different thickness and thickness can not only increase the uniformity of the socks, but also increase the clarity of the socks; in the drawing step, the raw materials are selected by the high stretch of the spandex and the low spandex.
  • the processing conditions of drawing and matching, the combination of the two processes further highlights the strength and weakness of the two raw materials, and weave into socks to achieve the best effect; in the twisting step, two different twists are used.
  • an appropriate winding ratio is selected according to the selection of the raw materials and the process.
  • the difference in the two-way yarn path using the thick spandex is made to make the stockings more transparent.
  • KTF Automatic Yarn Feeder
  • the woven stockings of the invention achieve uniform and clear lines during the wearing process, and eliminate the problem of uneven wearing (especially dark) in the four-way covered yarn stockings which have existed for a long time, that is, the vitiligo industry often said It can be said that the invention integrates the advantages of the two types of stockings, and the silk stockings woven by the covered yarn of the invention can achieve the clarity and permeability of the two-way stockings, and achieve the uniform wearing effect, and can maintain the original The feel and softness of the four-way stockings.
  • Figure 1 is a flow chart of the patent
  • Figure 2 is a schematic view of a four-way weaving of the present patent
  • FIG. 1 is a flow chart of the production process of the patent, and the detailed production process is as follows:
  • Raw material matching including two sets of spandex and two sets of outsourced nylon yarn;
  • the first group of spandex filaments has a fineness of 20D-70D, and the second group of spandex filaments has a fineness of 10D-15D;
  • the denier of the outsourced nylon yarn is 5-12D, and the two sets of outsourced nylon yarns may have the same fineness or the first group of nylon filaments may be slightly thicker than the second group; if the second group of spandex yarns adopts a low twist processing method, the second Group of nylon yarns should choose the same fineness and low pore number of nylon yarn to prevent hooking;
  • the first group of spandex yarns are made of elastic spandex yarn, the draft ratio is set at 3.0-3.5; the second group of spandex yarns is made of weaker spandex yarn, and the draft ratio is set at 2.0-2.5;
  • Twisting The two raw materials are matched by two identical or two different twists, and the twist is set at 1700-2100. The size of the twist can ensure the texture of the knitted silk socks is clear, and the silk socks are comfortable to handle;
  • Winding Winding according to the method of winding the stockings, after the production is completed, the doffing inspection is carried out and placed in a 40 ° C heat preservation room for 16 hours, and then packaged to obtain the desired covered yarn;
  • the first group of spandex yarns are selected from dry-spun spandex yarns; the second group of spandex yarns is selected from melt-spun spandex yarns;
  • the winding step uses a HKV101C type winder and winds the nylon yarn according to a conventional process;
  • the first group of spandex yarns is selected from the LYCRA brand 1A074 batch.
  • Anti-de-spandex yarn the draft ratio is set to 3.4;
  • the second group of spandex yarn is selected from MOMLON brand 1M281 batch of anti-deaminization yarn, and the draft ratio is set to 2.2.
  • dry spinning can also be selected in both groups, but the first group selects a brand batch with good elasticity, and the batch of the second group selects a brand with weak elasticity, which is relatively thin and practical. The coated yarn produced is better.
  • the texture of the sock embryo is clear, and the uniformity of the dyeing of the back channel is improved; after the shrinking, the socks are sewn and bagged for dyeing; 4)
  • Weak acid dyes are dyed at 70-90 ° C at lower temperatures; 5)
  • the stockings are heated, dried and shaped on the sock board; heated at 120-130 ° C for 30 s, then dried and finished. Type, that is, the finished silk stockings.
  • a dye-affinity non-ionic leveling agent is selected to obtain a good appearance, and after dyeing, the weight of the fabric is 4-8% tannic acid and 2-4. % tartar to enhance fixation or two-step fixation to enhance rubbing fastness and wash fastness.
  • the finishing process uses a microcapsule-type finishing agent with a fabric weight of 2-4% to improve the static problem of the stockings, so as to reduce the spinning while making the wearing effect more comfortable and beautiful; in the twisting step, different When the twist is matched, the relatively thick raw material is made to have a large twist, the thinner raw material is made to have a small twist, and the last step is in the winding forming process.
  • the invention has the following characteristics:
  • the method of using the spandex with different thickness and thickness can not only increase the uniformity of the socks, but also increase the clarity of the socks; in the drawing step, the raw materials are selected by the high stretch of the spandex and the low spandex.
  • the combination of the two processing conditions, the combination of the two processes further highlights the strength and weakness of the two raw materials, weaving into socks to achieve the best results; in the twisting step, using two different twists to make the relatively thick
  • the raw material is made of large twist, the finer raw material adopts small twist; the last step is in the process of winding forming.
  • an appropriate winding ratio is selected according to the selection of the raw materials and the process.
  • the difference in the two-way yarn path using the thick spandex is made to make the stockings more transparent.
  • KTF Automatic Yarn Feeder
  • the woven stockings of the invention achieve uniform and clear lines during the wearing process, and eliminate the problem of uneven wearing (especially dark) in the four-way covered yarn stockings which have existed for a long time, that is, the vitiligo industry often said It can be said that the invention integrates the advantages of the two types of stockings, and the silk stockings woven by the covered yarn of the invention can achieve the clarity and permeability of the two-way stockings, and achieve the uniform wearing effect, and can maintain the original The feel and softness of the four-way stockings.
  • Embodiment 1 is a diagrammatic representation of Embodiment 1:
  • the raw material collocation is a very important step of the present invention.
  • the present invention selects the two-way spandex filament to have a fineness of 20D-70D, which is called the first group.
  • This embodiment takes the conventional fineness of 20D as an example.
  • the other two spandex filaments have a fineness of 10D-15D, which is called the second group.
  • the fineness of 10D is taken as an example.
  • the outer nylon yarn can be selected to have the same fineness, generally 5D-12D, or the first group of nylon filaments can be slightly thicker than the second group.
  • the second group of nylon yarns should be selected with the same fineness and low number of nylon yarns.
  • the invention adopts the nylon yarn of FDY 10D/5F as an example. If the second group adopts low twist, FDY 10D/3F is selected. This is illustrated by the example of 2010/5 and 1010/5.
  • the raw material fineness is selected for the spring and autumn and summer stockings with a thickness of 30D or less.
  • the winding is performed by a HKV101C type winder, and the size of the bobbin used is: high x inner diameter ⁇ Outer diameter: 100 mm ⁇ 34 mm ⁇ 62 mm.
  • the FDY10D/5F nylon filament winding can be carried out.
  • the draw ratio of the first group of spandex yarns in this embodiment is suitably set at 3.0-3.5, and the draw ratio of the second group of spandex yarns is set at 2.0-2.5.
  • the choice of this value is determined by the brand of the spandex used and the characteristics of the different batches, mainly determined by elasticity.
  • the spandex with large elasticity can be selected to be relatively small, and the elasticity can be relatively large.
  • the spandex 20D selected in this example was selected from the LYCRA brand 1A074 batch of anti-deaminating filaments, and the draw ratio was set to 3.4.
  • the spandex 10D is a 1M281 batch of anti-deaminating filament of the MOBILON brand, and has a draw ratio of 2.2.
  • LYCRA is a dry-spun spandex yarn with strong elasticity.
  • the MOBILON brand is melt-spun spandex with weak elasticity. This combination can highlight the effect of stockings.
  • all of our choices are anti-de-spandex, which not only achieves the aesthetic appearance of the stockings, but also increases the functionality of the stockings.
  • the choice of the size of the twist is to ensure that the weaving of the silk stockings is clear, and that the stockings are comfortable to feel. After many experiments, the setting of the twist of the embodiment is suitable at 1700-2100.
  • the twist setting should not be too large, and the case is set to 1700 TPM.
  • Winding according to the conventional parameter setting after the production is finished, the doffing inspection is carried out and placed at 40 ° C Packed after 16 hours of equilibration in the greenhouse.
  • the knitting is shaped according to the normal processing method of the anti-stripping stocking. It should be noted that before using the covered yarn, the covered yarn should be placed in the hosiery workshop, and the package should be opened and balanced in the environment of 20-25 ° C for more than 5 days, so that the physical structure of the wrapped yarn is stabilized. Reduce the yarn breakage caused by the unwinding process, which is good for weaving. In the weaving step, it is sensitive to the environment, and the temperature of the weaving workshop is controlled to a temperature of 20-25 ° C, and the relative humidity is controlled to 60-65%, so that the performance of each part of the wrapped yarn is stable, and the special setting due to the twist is reduced. The occurrence of the spinning situation.
  • the weaving of the stockings is four-way weaving.
  • 1F, 2F, 3F, and 4F respectively represent four paths, and the same group uses the same raw materials.
  • the two groups of yarns are arranged in a cross arrangement, that is, the first and third paths are the first group, and the two and fourth channels are the second group.
  • a tension controller is arranged in the knitting process, and the automatic yarn feeder is connected to the controller, and the rotation speed of the automatic yarn feeder is controlled by the controller.
  • the speed of the automatic yarn feeder is controlled between 400-500 rpm.
  • the stepping motor acting on the automatic yarn feeder is set by the program of the controller, and the stepping motor further controls the automatic yarn feeder, so that the line of the stockings is ensured to be balanced.
  • the pre-shrinking treatment of the sock embryo is carried out, and the steaming temperature is accurately controlled at 80 ° C for 30 s to accurately shrink the elastic yarn in the slack shape, eliminate the residual stress, prevent the hook yarn, improve the elasticity, and facilitate the latter.
  • the sewing process at the same time, the texture of the sock embryo is clear, and the uniformity of the dyeing of the back channel is improved. After shrinking, the socks are sewn and bagged for dyeing.
  • the dye in order to avoid damage to the elastic fiber spandex, the dye is selected to be weakly acidic (at pH 7-8) dyed at a lower temperature of 70-90 ° C.
  • a dye-affinitive non-ionic leveling agent is specially selected to obtain a good appearance, and after dyeing, the weight of the fabric is 4-8% tannic acid and 2-4% tartar. (to strengthen the fixing or use two-step fixing to enhance the rubbing fastness And washing fastness, while finishing using a microcapsule-type finishing agent with a fabric weight of 2-4%, such as CEL of Celessence Inc. to improve the static problem of the stockings, to reduce the spinning while making the wearing effect more comfortable and beautiful.
  • the stockings are heated, dried and shaped on the sock board. It is heated by steam at 120-130 ° C for 30 s, and then dried and finished to obtain finished silk stockings.
  • the hosiery thus obtained has a good feel, has a smooth and transparent texture, and the structure of the stocking is fastened and does not detach.
  • Embodiment 2 is a diagrammatic representation of Embodiment 1:
  • the invention discloses a production process for knitting uniformly covering four-way stockings covered yarn, comprising the following steps:
  • the first group is made of 20D ordinary spandex yarn and coated with nylon yarn of FDY 8D/5F, that is, the covered yarn specification is 2008/5;
  • the second group is made of 10D ordinary spandex yarn as the core.
  • the nylon yarn of FDY8D/5F is coated, that is, the covered yarn size is 1008/5;
  • Winding winding according to a conventional process
  • twisting the twist of both sets of covered yarns is set to 1800;
  • Winding winding according to a conventional process, and the winding ratio is set to 90%;
  • Weaving stereotype The two sets of covered yarns are placed at a temperature of 20-25 ° C and a relative humidity of 60-65 for 5 days. Under the same temperature and humidity conditions, the 480 needle knitting machine is used to balance the covered yarns. Weaving is carried out, and the plain weave is used in the weaving process, and the two sets of wrapping yarns are placed at the same time.
  • the first and third roads are the first group, the degree of setting is different, and the second and fourth roads are the second group, and the four-way silk road is simultaneously
  • the automatic yarn feeders are set to a tension of 1.0, and the fabric is woven; after dyeing and setting, it is available.
  • Embodiment 3 is a diagrammatic representation of Embodiment 3
  • the invention discloses a production process for knitting uniformly covering four-way stockings covered yarn, comprising the following steps:
  • the first group is made of 20D anti-de-spandex silk, coated with nylon yarn of FDY 12D/24F, that is, the covered yarn is 2012/24; the second group is made of 10D anti-deaminating silk. It is coated with nylon yarn of FDY12D/24F, and the covered yarn size is 1012/24.
  • Winding winding according to the conventional process, the winding rate is set to 90%
  • Weaving stereotype The two sets of covered yarns are placed at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, and the relative humidity is 60-65 for 5 days. Under the same temperature and humidity conditions, the 400 yarn knitting machine is used to balance the covered yarns. Weaving is carried out, and the plain weave is used in the weaving process, and the two sets of wrapping yarns are placed at the same time.
  • the first and third roads are the first group, the degree of setting is different, and the second and fourth roads are the second group, and the four-way silk road is simultaneously
  • the automatic yarn feeders are set to a tension of 1.0, and the fabric is woven; after dyeing and setting, it is available.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Socks And Pantyhose (AREA)

Abstract

公开了一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，该丝袜原料采用两种不同原料及工艺的包覆纱搭配，制袜工艺依次包括有原料搭配、络筒、牵伸、加捻、卷绕，编织定型步骤。在原料搭配步骤中，采用粗细不同的氨纶丝搭配方法，既能增加丝袜的均匀度，更能增加丝袜的清晰度；在牵伸步骤中，原料选择采用粗氨纶高牵伸、细氨纶低牵伸相互搭配的加工条件，这两种工艺的搭配凸显两种原料的强弱搭配，编织成丝袜后达到最佳效果。

Description

一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺 技术领域
本发明涉及一种包覆纱的生产工艺
背景技术
丝袜作为一个日常消费品，越来越多的出现在人们的生活当中，像一些商务正式场合、出席活动及日常工作及生活。人们对丝袜的要求也在不断提升，对外观及穿着的美观度，以及一些功能性都有不同的诉求。
做丝袜采用的包覆纱都为锦纶包覆纱，就是锦纶丝按设定的捻度均匀包覆在氨纶丝外面，包覆纱在业内通常表示的方式为：2008/5；20为氨纶的D数，表示采用的20D氨纶丝；08是锦纶的D数，表示8D的锦纶丝，/5是锦纶丝的孔数，表示8D的锦纶丝是5孔的。其他规格以此类推。
近几年来，国内外丝袜的种类主要分为两大类，一类是两路包覆纱加两路锦纶编织的丝袜，业内通常叫做两路丝袜，因为两路锦纶的编织增加了袜子的通透性及清晰度，纹路均匀，所以也称为绢感丝袜，但这类丝袜的手感及柔软度不够；一类是四路全为包覆纱编织的丝袜，业内叫做四路丝袜，四路包覆纱编织手感柔软，所以也成为天鹅绒丝袜，但这类丝袜存在通透性不强，穿着不均匀的问题。
发明内容
本发明要解决的技术问题在于：提供一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺。本发明解决其技术问题所采用的技术方案是：
一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述的丝袜由原料搭配、络筒、牵伸、加捻、卷绕、编织定型步骤后得到，其详细的制作工艺如下：
1)原料搭配：包括两组氨纶丝和两组外包锦纶丝；
第一组氨纶丝的纤度为20D-70D，第二组氨纶丝的纤度为10D-15D；
外包锦纶丝的纤度为5-12D，两组外包锦纶丝选择相同的纤度或第一组的锦纶丝可略粗于第二组；若第二组的氨纶丝采用低捻度的加工方法，第二组的锦纶丝要选择同样纤度低孔数的锦纶丝,防止勾丝；
2)络筒：采用络筒机并按照常规工艺对锦纶丝进行络筒；
3)牵伸：第一组氨纶丝选用弹性较强的氨纶丝，牵伸比设置在2.0-2.5；第二组氨纶丝选用弹性较弱的氨纶丝，牵伸比设置在3.0-3.5；
4)加捻：两种原料采用两种相同或两种不同捻度的搭配，捻度设置在1700-2100，此捻度的大小既能保证所编织的丝袜纹路清晰，又要保证丝袜手感舒适；
5)卷绕：按丝袜卷绕方法进行卷绕，生产完毕后落纱检验，并放置在40℃的保温房内平衡16小时后进行包装，即得到所需的包覆纱；
6)编织定型：按丝袜加工方法对包覆纱进行编织定型。
作为本发明的改进，第一组氨纶丝选用干纺氨纶丝；第二组氨纶丝选用熔纺氨纶丝；
作为本发明的进一步改进，所述络筒步骤中采用HKV101C型络筒机并按照常规工艺对锦纶丝进行络筒；所述牵伸步骤中，第一组氨纶丝选用LYCRA品牌的1A074批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置的牵伸比为3.4；第二组氨纶丝选用MOBILON品牌的1M281批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置的牵伸比为2.2。
作为本发明的更进一步改进，其中所述的编织定型步骤中：1)在使用包覆纱之前，要把包覆纱放置在织袜车间，打开包装在20-25℃环境中平衡5天以上，以使得包覆纱线的物理结构得到稳定，减少退绕过程中所导致的断纱，利于编 织；2)为避免编织时产生纹路不良、编织断头等问题，自动送纱器的转速控制在400-500rpm之间；3)编织下机后，进行袜胚的预缩处理，精确控制汽蒸温度80℃，处理30s，使处于松弛状的弹性纱线准确收缩，消除剩余应力，防止勾丝，提高弹性，利于后道的缝制工序；同时使袜胚的组织纹路清晰，提高后道染色的均匀度；预缩后对袜子进行缝制、装袋准备染色；4)染色过程中，为避免对弹性纤维氨纶造成的损伤，选择弱酸性染料在较低的温度下70-90℃染色；5)染色后，将丝袜在袜板上加热、烘干、整型；采用120-130℃蒸汽加热30s，之后再进行烘干、整型，即制得成品丝袜。
作为本发明的又进一步改进，其中所述的染色过程中，为避免匀染不良的问题，选用染料亲和型非离子型匀染剂以获得良好的外观，并在染色后采用对织物重量为4-8％单宁酸和2-4％吐酒石以加强固色或采用两步固色以加强摩擦牢度和耐水洗牢度。
作为本发明的又进一步改进，其中所述的染色过程中，后整理采用对织物重量为2-4％的微胶囊型整理剂以改善丝袜的静电问题，以减少抽丝同时使得穿着效果更加舒适美观；
作为本发明的又进一步改进，所述的加捻步骤中，采用不同的捻度搭配时使相对较粗的原料采用大捻度，较细的原料采用小捻度，最后一步在卷绕成型的过程。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有如下特点：
本发明在原料搭配步骤中，采用粗细不同的氨纶丝搭配方法，既能增加袜子的均匀度，更能增加袜子的清晰度；牵伸步骤中，原料选择采用粗氨纶高牵伸、细氨纶低牵伸相互搭配的加工条件，这两种工艺的搭配，进一步凸显两种原料的强弱搭配，编织成袜子达到最佳效果；加捻步骤中，采用两种不同捻度 的搭配，使相对较粗的原料采用大捻度，较细的原料采用小捻度；最后一步在卷绕成型的过程。
在卷绕成型过程中，根据选择原料及工艺的不同，选择合适的卷绕率。在编织过程中，在使用粗氨纶的两路丝道上加度目差，使丝袜更加通透。为了使丝袜纹路更加均匀，四路丝道都使用KTF(自动送纱器)。
本发明编织的丝袜在穿着过程中达到均匀、纹路清晰的效果，消除了长期以来存在的四路包覆纱丝袜存在的穿着不均匀的问题(尤其深色)，即丝袜行业常说的“白癜风”；可以说，本发明整合了两类丝袜的优点，采用本发明包覆纱编织的丝袜既能达到两路丝袜的清晰度及通透性，并达到穿着均匀的效果，又能保持原有四路丝袜的手感及柔软度。
附图说明
为了更清楚地说明本发明实施例或现有技术中的技术方案，下面将对实施例或现有技术描述中所需要使用的附图作一简单地介绍，显而易见地，下面描述中的附图是本发明的一些实施例，对于本领域普通技术人员来讲，在不付出创造性劳动性的前提下，还可以根据这些附图获得其他的附图。
图1是本专利的流程图；
图2是本专利的四路编织示意图；
具体实施方式
为使本发明实施例的目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚，下面将结合本发明实施例中的附图，对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
图1是本专利生产工艺的流程图，其详细的制作工艺如下：
1)原料搭配：包括两组氨纶丝和两组外包锦纶丝；
第一组氨纶丝的纤度为20D-70D，第二组氨纶丝的纤度为10D-15D；
外包锦纶丝的纤度为5-12D，两组外包锦纶丝选择相同的纤度或第一组的锦纶丝可略粗于第二组；若第二组的氨纶丝采用低捻度的加工方法，第二组的锦纶丝要选择同样纤度低孔数的锦纶丝,防止勾丝；
2)络筒：采用络筒机并按照常规工艺对锦纶丝进行络筒；
3)牵伸：第一组氨纶丝选用弹性较强的氨纶丝，牵伸比设置在3.0-3.5；第二组氨纶丝选用弹性较弱的氨纶丝，牵伸比设置在2.0-2.5；
4)加捻：两种原料采用两种相同或两种不同捻度的搭配，捻度设置在1700-2100，此捻度的大小既能保证所编织的丝袜纹路清晰，又要保证丝袜手感舒适；
5)卷绕：按丝袜卷绕方法进行卷绕，生产完毕后落纱检验，并放置在40℃的保温房内平衡16小时后进行包装，即得到所需的包覆纱；
6)编织定型：按丝袜加工方法对包覆纱进行编织定型。
作为本发明的改进，第一组氨纶丝选用干纺氨纶丝；第二组氨纶丝选用熔纺氨纶丝；
作为本发明的进一步改进，所述络筒步骤中采用HKV101C型络筒机并按照常规工艺对锦纶丝进行络筒；所述牵伸步骤中，第一组氨纶丝选用LYCRA品牌的1A074批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置的牵伸比为3.4；第二组氨纶丝选用MOBILON品牌的1M281批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置的牵伸比为2.2。当然，在本发明实施过程中也可以两组都选择干纺，但第一组选弹性好的品牌批次，相对粗的，第二组选弹性弱的品牌的批次，相对细的，实际生产出来的包覆纱效果较好。
在编织定型步骤中需要注意：1)在使用包覆纱之前，要把包覆纱放置在织袜车间，打开包装在20-25℃环境中平衡5天以上，以使得包覆纱线的物理结构 得到稳定，减少退绕过程中所导致的断纱，利于编织；2)为避免编织时产生纹路不良、编织断头等问题，自动送纱器的转速控制在400-500rpm之间；3)编织下机后，进行袜胚的预缩处理，精确控制汽蒸温度80℃，处理30s，使处于松弛状的弹性纱线准确收缩，消除剩余应力，防止勾丝，提高弹性，利于后道的缝制工序；同时使袜胚的组织纹路清晰，提高后道染色的均匀度；预缩后对袜子进行缝制、装袋准备染色；4)染色过程中，为避免对弹性纤维氨纶造成的损伤，选择弱酸性染料在较低的温度下70-90℃染色；5)染色后，将丝袜在袜板上加热、烘干、整型；采用120-130℃蒸汽加热30s，之后再进行烘干、整型，即制得成品丝袜。
在染色过程中，为避免匀染不良的问题，选用染料亲和型非离子型匀染剂以获得良好的外观，并在染色后采用对织物重量为4-8％单宁酸和2-4％吐酒石以加强固色或采用两步固色以加强摩擦牢度和耐水洗牢度。在染色过程中，后整理采用对织物重量为2-4％的微胶囊型整理剂以改善丝袜的静电问题，以减少抽丝同时使得穿着效果更加舒适美观；在加捻步骤中，采用不同的捻度搭配时使相对较粗的原料采用大捻度，较细的原料采用小捻度，最后一步在卷绕成型的过程。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有如下特点：
本发明在原料搭配步骤中，采用粗细不同的氨纶丝搭配方法，既能增加袜子的均匀度，更能增加袜子的清晰度；牵伸步骤中，原料选择采用粗氨纶高牵伸、细氨纶低牵伸相互搭配的加工条件，这两种工艺的搭配，进一步凸显两种原料的强弱搭配，编织成袜子达到最佳效果；加捻步骤中，采用两种不同捻度的搭配，使相对较粗的原料采用大捻度，较细的原料采用小捻度；最后一步在卷绕成型的过程。
在卷绕成型过程中，根据选择原料及工艺的不同，选择合适的卷绕率。在编织过程中，在使用粗氨纶的两路丝道上加度目差，使丝袜更加通透。为了使丝袜纹路更加均匀，四路丝道都使用KTF(自动送纱器)。
本发明编织的丝袜在穿着过程中达到均匀、纹路清晰的效果，消除了长期以来存在的四路包覆纱丝袜存在的穿着不均匀的问题(尤其深色)，即丝袜行业常说的“白癜风”；可以说，本发明整合了两类丝袜的优点，采用本发明包覆纱编织的丝袜既能达到两路丝袜的清晰度及通透性，并达到穿着均匀的效果，又能保持原有四路丝袜的手感及柔软度。
实施例一：
1、原料搭配
原料搭配是本发明非常重要的一步，经过多次试验，本发明选择两路氨纶丝的纤度为20D-70D，称为第一组，本实施例以20D这个常规纤度为例。另外两路氨纶丝的纤度为10D-15D，称为第二组，本实施例以10D这个纤度为例。外包锦纶丝可以选择相同的纤度，一般为5D-12D，或第一组的锦纶丝可略粗于第二组。考虑到在织袜及穿着过程中减少勾丝的情况，若第二组采用低捻度的加工方法，第二组的锦纶丝要选择同样纤度低孔数的锦纶丝。本发明以FDY 10D/5F的锦纶丝为例，若第二组采用低捻度，则选用FDY 10D/3F。这样就以2010/5和1010/5为例进行说明。
此外，由于只有在纤度较细的丝袜穿着过程中，才会出现四路包纱丝袜不匀及通透行的问题，所以原材料纤度的选取是针对厚度30D以下的春秋及夏季的丝袜。
2、络筒
本实施例采用HKV101C型络筒机进行络筒，所用筒管尺寸为：高×内径× 外径：100mm×34mm×62mm。按照常规工艺进行对FDY10D/5F锦纶丝络筒即可。
3、牵伸
为了达到更好的效果，经过多次试验，见表1，本实施例第一组氨纶丝的牵伸比设置在3.0-3.5比较合适，第二组氨纶丝牵伸比设置在2.0-2.5。这个数值的选择是由所用氨纶丝的品牌及不同批号的特性，主要是弹性决定的，弹性大的氨纶丝可以选择相对小一点牵伸，弹性小的可相对大一点。
表1牵伸选取测试
Figure PCTCN2016089864-appb-000001
本实施例所选氨纶丝20D选择LYCRA品牌的1A074批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置牵伸比为3.4。氨纶丝10D为MOBILON品牌的1M281批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置的牵伸比为2.2。LYCRA是干纺氨纶丝，弹性较强，MOBILON品牌是熔纺氨纶，弹性较弱，这样的组合更能凸显丝袜的效果。同时，我们选择的全部为防脱氨纶丝，这样既达到丝袜外观的美观的目的，同时又增加了丝袜的功能性。
4、加捻
捻度的大小的选择既要保证所编织的丝袜纹路清晰，又要保证丝袜手感舒适，经过多次试验，本实施例捻度设置在1700-2100较为合适。
由于本实施例举例说明的为防脱氨纶丝，为了达到织袜后定型达到较好的防脱效果，捻度设置不宜过大，本案例设置为1700TPM。
5、卷绕
按照常规的参数设置进行卷绕，生产完毕后落纱检验，并放置在40℃的保 温房内平衡16小时后进行包装。
6、编织定型
按照防脱丝袜的正常加工方法进行编织定型。其中需要说明的是在使用包覆纱之前，要把包覆纱放置在织袜车间，打开包装在20-25℃环境中平衡5天以上，以使得包缠纱纱线的物理结构得到稳定，减少退绕过程中所导致的断纱，利于编织。在编织步骤中，对环境较为敏感，要求编织车间温度控制为温度20-25℃，相对湿度控制为60-65％，以使得包缠纱的各部分性能稳定，减少由于捻度特殊设定而引起的抽丝情况的发生。
丝袜的编织是四路编织，如图2中1F、2F、3F、4F分别代表四路，同一组采用相同的原料搭配。编织步骤中，两组纱线的排列为交叉排列，即1、3路为第一组，2、4路为第二组。编织过程中设置有张力控制器，自动送纱器连接于控制器，自动送纱器的转速由控制器进行控制，编织时为了避免产生纹路不良、编织断头等问题，须合理的设定机器的状态，自动送纱器的转速控制在400-500rpm之间。通过控制器的程序设定作用于自动送纱器的步进电动机，步进电动机进而控制自动送纱器，从而使得丝袜纹路保证均衡。
编织下机后，进行袜胚的预缩处理，精确控制汽蒸温度80℃，处理30s，使处于松弛状的弹性纱线准确收缩，消除剩余应力，防止勾丝，提高弹性，利于后道的缝制工序；同时使袜胚的组织纹路清晰，提高后道染色的均匀度。预缩后对袜子进行缝制、装袋准备染色。
染色过程中，为避免对弹性纤维氨纶造成的损伤，因此选择弱酸性(在pH值7-8的条件下)染料在较低的温度下70-90℃染色。为避免匀染不良的问题，特选用染料亲和型非离子型匀染剂以获得良好的外观，并在染色后采用对织物重量为4-8％单宁酸和2-4％吐酒石(以加强固色或采用两步固色以加强摩擦牢度 和耐水洗牢度，同时后整理采用对织物重量为2-4％的微胶囊型整理剂例如Celessence公司的CEL以改善丝袜的静电问题，以减少抽丝同时使得穿着效果更加舒适美观。
染色后，将丝袜在袜板上加热、烘干、整型。采用120-130℃蒸汽加热30s，之后再进行烘干、整型，即制得成品丝袜。这样制得的织袜手感良好，具有平整透明的纹路，且丝袜的结构紧固，不会脱散。
实施例二：
一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，包括如下步骤：
1)原料搭配：第一组以20D普通氨纶丝为芯，用FDY 8D/5F的锦纶丝进行包覆，即包覆纱规格为2008/5；第二组以10D普通氨纶丝为芯，用FDY8D/5F的锦纶丝进行包覆，即包覆纱规格为1008/5；
2)络筒：按照常规工艺进行络筒；
3)牵伸：第一组包覆纱2008/5的牵伸比设置为3.4，第二组1008/5牵伸比设置为2.2；
4)加捻：两组包覆纱的捻度都设置为1800；
5)卷绕：按常规工艺进行卷绕，卷绕率设置为90％；
6)编织定型：将两组包覆纱放在温度20-25℃，相对湿度60-65的环境下平衡5天，在同样温湿度条件下，采用480针编织机对平衡后的包覆纱进行编织，编织过程中采用平纹组织，两组包纱交叉放置，在本实施例中，1、3路为第一组，设置度目差，2、4路为第二组，同时四路丝道自动送纱器都设置张力为1.0，编织得到织物；染色定型后，既得。
实施例三：
一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，包括如下步骤：
1)原料搭配：第一组以20D防脱氨纶丝为芯，用FDY 12D/24F的锦纶丝进行包覆，即包覆纱规格为2012/24；第二组以10D防脱氨纶丝为芯，用FDY12D/24F的锦纶丝进行包覆，及包覆纱规格为1012/24.
2)络筒：按照常规工艺进行络筒
3)牵伸：第一组包覆纱2012/24的牵伸比设置为3.4，第二组1012/24牵伸比设置为2.2
4)加捻：两组包覆纱的捻度都设置为1700
5)卷绕：按常规工艺进行卷绕，卷绕率设置为90％
6)编织定型：将两组包覆纱放在温度20-25℃，相对湿度60-65的环境下平衡5天，在同样温湿度条件下，采用400针编织机对平衡后的包覆纱进行编织，编织过程中采用平纹组织，两组包纱交叉放置，在本实施例中，1、3路为第一组，设置度目差，2、4路为第二组，同时四路丝道自动送纱器都设置张力为1.0，编织得到织物；染色定型后，既得。
最后应说明的是：以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案，而非对其限制；尽管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明，本领域的普通技术人员应当理解：其依然可以对前述各实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改，或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换；而这些修改或者替换，并不使相应技术方案的本质脱离本发明各实施例技术方案的精神和范围。

Claims (7)

  1. 一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述的丝袜由原料搭配、络筒、牵伸、加捻、卷绕、编织定型步骤后得到，其详细的制作工艺如下：
    1)原料搭配：包括两组氨纶丝和两组外包锦纶丝；
    第一组氨纶丝的纤度为20D-70D，第二组氨纶丝的纤度为10D-15D；
    外包锦纶丝的纤度为5-12D，两组外包锦纶丝选择相同的纤度或第一组的锦纶丝可略粗于第二组；若第二组的氨纶丝采用低捻度的加工方法，第二组的锦纶丝要选择同样纤度低孔数的锦纶丝,防止勾丝；
    2)络筒：采用络筒机并按照常规工艺对锦纶丝进行络筒；
    3)牵伸：第一组氨纶丝选用弹性较强的氨纶丝，牵伸比设置在3.0-3.5；第二组氨纶丝选用弹性较弱的氨纶丝，牵伸比设置在2.0-2.5；
    4)加捻：两种原料采用两种相同或两种不同捻度的搭配，捻度设置在1700-2100，此捻度的大小既能保证所编织的丝袜纹路清晰，又要保证丝袜手感舒适；
    5)卷绕：按包覆纱常规卷绕方法进行卷绕，生产完毕后落纱检验，并放置在40℃的保温房内平衡16小时后进行包装，即得到所需的包覆纱；
    6)编织定型：按丝袜加工方法对包覆纱进行编织定型。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特征在于，第一组氨纶丝选用干纺氨纶丝；第二组氨纶丝选用熔纺氨纶丝。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述络筒步骤中采用HKV101C型络筒机并按照常规工艺对锦纶丝进行络筒；
    所述牵伸步骤中，第一组氨纶丝选用LYCRA品牌的1A074批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置的牵伸比为3.4；第二组氨纶丝选用MOBILON品牌的1M281批次的防脱氨纶丝，设置的牵伸比为2.2。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特征在于，其中所述的编织定型步骤中：
    1)在使用包覆纱之前，要把包覆纱放置在织袜车间，打开包装在20-25℃环境中平衡5天以上，以使得包覆纱线的物理结构得到稳定，减少退绕过程中所导致的断纱，利于编织；
    2)为避免编织时产生纹路不良、编织断头等问题，自动送纱器的转速控制在400-500rpm之间；
    3)编织下机后，进行袜胚的预缩处理，精确控制汽蒸温度80℃，处理30s，使处于松弛状的弹性纱线准确收缩，消除剩余应力，防止勾丝，提高弹性，利于后道的缝制工序；同时使袜胚的组织纹路清晰，提高后道染色的均匀度；预缩后对袜子进行缝制、装袋准备染色；
    4)染色过程中，为避免对弹性纤维氨纶造成的损伤，选择弱酸性染料在较低的温度下70-90℃染色；
    5)染色后，将丝袜在袜板上加热、烘干、整型；采用120-130℃蒸汽加热30s，之后再进行烘干、整型，即制得成品丝袜。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特征在于，其中所述的染色过程中，为避免匀染不良的问题，选用染料亲和型非离子型匀染剂以获得良好的外观，并在染色后采用对织物重量为4-8％单宁酸和2-4％吐酒石以加强固色或采用两步固色以加强摩擦牢度和耐水洗牢度。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特 征在于，其中所述的染色过程中，后整理采用对织物重量为2-4％的微胶囊型整理剂以改善丝袜的静电问题，以减少抽丝同时使得穿着效果更加舒适美观。
  7. 根据权利要求1到6其中任一所述的一种编织均匀通透四路丝袜包覆纱的生产工艺，其特征在于，其中所述的加捻步骤中，采用不同的捻度搭配时使相对较粗的原料采用大捻度，较细的原料采用小捻度，最后一步在卷绕成型的过程。
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