WO2019179397A1 - 一种骨架纱线和牛仔织物 - Google Patents

一种骨架纱线和牛仔织物 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019179397A1
WO2019179397A1 PCT/CN2019/078519 CN2019078519W WO2019179397A1 WO 2019179397 A1 WO2019179397 A1 WO 2019179397A1 CN 2019078519 W CN2019078519 W CN 2019078519W WO 2019179397 A1 WO2019179397 A1 WO 2019179397A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
spun
fiber
skeleton
twist
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PCT/CN2019/078519
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
王宗文
全连燕
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广东前进牛仔布有限公司
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Publication of WO2019179397A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019179397A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the utility model relates to a yarn and a fabric, in particular to a skeleton yarn and a denim fabric, belonging to the technical field of denim textile.
  • the formation of the retro denim fabric style is the long-term shrinkage rate of the fabric after the processing, so that the finished garment can increase its shrinkage when washing the water to form a retro sense of the unevenness of the clothing fabric, but this The method is prone to size instability and difficulty in control in garment cutting, resulting in the disadvantages of different numbers of codes and high defect rate.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a skeleton yarn, which aims to overcome the defects of low elasticity, poor skin feel and dimensional instability of the existing retro denim fabric.
  • a skeleton yarn comprising a central core elastic yarn, a middle fine fiber coated on the surface of the core elastic yarn or a spun yarn spun from the fiber, and a surface of the fine yarn coated on the middle fine fiber or spun from the fiber.
  • a skeleton yarn is spun in the following manner: firstly, the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is spun using a twist of 10% higher than the normal spinning twist, and then the core elastic yarn is at a minimum twist of about 35 T/ The 10 cm spinning process is spun; then the outer layer of coarse fibers is wrapped in the intermediate fine fibers or the spun yarn and the core elastic yarn spun from the fibers by a looseness spinning process.
  • a skeleton yarn is spun in the following manner: the spinning method of the skeleton yarn is as follows: the outer layer of the coarse fiber or the roving of the fiber, the fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber The core elastic yarn, wherein the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is coated by a loosening method, and the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn spun by the fiber is twisted by a sorghum method.
  • the yarn branch of the skeleton yarn is 6S-40S.
  • a skeleton yarn, wherein the intermediate fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is an OE yarn.
  • a skeleton yarn wherein the outer layer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is a fiber having a cool quick-drying or warm-keeping function.
  • a skeleton yarn, wherein the outer layer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is a tencel fiber, a modal fiber or a viscose fiber.
  • the spinning method of the skeleton yarn is as follows: firstly, the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is spun using a twist of 5-15% higher than the normal spinning twist, and then loosened with the core layer elastic yarn. The spinning process of the twist spinning is spun; then the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is wrapped in the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn and the core elastic yarn spun from the fiber by a looseness spinning process.
  • the spinning method of the skeleton yarn is as follows: firstly, the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is spun using a twist which is 10% higher than the normal spinning twist, and then the core layer elastic yarn is twisted 25- The 90T/10cm spinning process is spun; then the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is wrapped in the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn and the core layer spun from the fiber by a spinning process with a twist of 25-90T/10cm. On the stretch silk.
  • the spinning of the skeleton yarn is as follows: the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is coated with a twist of 25-90 T/10 cm, and the intermediate fine fiber is used at a higher twist than the normal spinning 5- 15% twisted and coated.
  • the yarn of the skeleton yarn is 5S-50S.
  • the outer layer of the coarse fibers or the rovings spun from the fibers are short fibers having a fiber length of from 8 mm to 48 mm.
  • the outer layer of coarse fibers or rovings spun from fibers are cotton yarn, tencel fiber, modal fiber, viscose fiber, polyester-cotton blended yarn, tencel cotton blended yarn or modal cotton blended yarn.
  • the intermediate fine fibers or the spun yarns spun from the fibers are short fibers.
  • the intermediate fine fibers or the spun yarns spun from the fibers are cotton, cotton-containing blended yarns, non-cotton and non-cotton blended yarns or blended yarns of two or more kinds of fibers.
  • the middle layer of fine fibers or the spun yarn spun from the fibers are cotton yarn, polyester-cotton blended yarn, tencel cotton blended yarn or modal cotton blended yarn.
  • the intermediate layer of fine fibers or the spun yarn spun from the fibers has a yarn count of 10S-60S
  • the core layer of the elastic yarn has a yarn count of 20D-450D.
  • the intermediate layer of fine fibers or the spun yarn spun from the fibers has a twist coefficient of from 3.0 to 6.0.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a denim fabric comprising the above-described skeleton yarn.
  • the weft of the denim fabric uses the above-mentioned skeleton yarn.
  • the denim fabric adopts a 3/1 twill, 2/1 twill or 1/1 plain weave.
  • the utility model has the beneficial effects that the skeleton yarn of the utility model has a three-layer structure, wherein the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is spun in a high twisting process, and plays a stiff role in the fabric; The outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber plays a soft fluffy and improved hand feeling in the fabric by the loose spinning process; the core elastic yarn at the center plays a contracting role in the fabric.
  • the denim fabric adopting the skeleton yarn of the utility model has the following advantages: 1.
  • the cloth surface has a good concave-convex effect and has a good retro style; 2.
  • Figure 1 is a cross-sectional view of the skeleton yarn of the present invention.
  • Figure 2 is a schematic view showing the middle layer of fine fibers or the spun yarn-coated core layer elastic yarn spun from the fibers in the first embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 3 is a schematic view showing the outer layer of the raw fiber or the roving of the fiber-coated medium-layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic view showing the outer layer of the coarse fiber or the roving and the intermediate fine fiber spun from the fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber simultaneously covering the core layer elastic yarn in the embodiment 2 of the present invention.
  • the middle layer of spun yarn is spun from middle layer fiber
  • the skeleton yarn provided by the utility model comprises a core layer elastic yarn located at the center, a middle layer fine fiber coated on the surface of the core layer elastic yarn or a spun yarn spun from the fiber, and coated in the middle layer fine fiber or spun by the fiber a coarse fiber of the outer surface of the spun yarn or a roving spun from the fiber, wherein the intermediate fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is a high-twist fiber, and the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is Loose fiber.
  • the outer layer roving is spun into a skeleton yarn together with the middle layer and the inner layer, and the overall count of the skeleton yarn is 6S-40S. It has been experimentally proved that the effect of the skeleton yarn can also be achieved when the overall count of the skeleton yarn is expanded to 5S-50S.
  • the intermediate fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber preferably has a yarn count of 10S-60S. If the middle layer of fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is too fine to be broken, it does not reflect the skeleton effect, and if it is too thick, the weaving is not possible. not good.
  • the core layer of the elastic yarn has a yarn count of 20D-450D.
  • the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber can only be made of short fibers (fiber length of 8 mm to 48 mm), because the short velvet feeling can better make the fabric shrink better. Thereby achieving the desired cloth effect.
  • the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber can adopt a fiber having a cool, quick-drying or warm-keeping function, so that the fabric can have a cool, quick-drying or warm-keeping function.
  • the outer layer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber may be cotton, cotton-containing blended yarn, non-cotton and non-cotton blended yarn or a blended yarn of two or more kinds of fibers, preferably cotton yarn, tencel fiber, Modal fiber, viscose fiber, polyester/cotton blended yarn, tencel cotton blended yarn or modal cotton blended yarn.
  • the cotton yarn has good air permeability, and the polyester-cotton blended yarn has high strength, and the hand-woven cotton blended yarn and the modal cotton blended yarn have better hand feeling.
  • the raw material of the intermediate fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber may be made of short fibers or long fibers, and the effect of using short fibers is best because the strength of the short fibers is better.
  • the middle layer is made into a spun yarn by using one or more mixed fibers through a spinning process to have a certain strength and twist, which provides the strength of the overall yarn of the skeleton yarn, and secondly, the yarn is spun under a certain twist. The resulting yarn thus provides a prominent feel to the overall yarn while being stiff.
  • the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber may be a cotton, a cotton-containing blended yarn, a non-cotton and a non-cotton blended yarn or a blended yarn of two or more kinds of fibers, preferably a cotton yarn or a polyester-cotton blended yarn.
  • the cotton yarn has good air permeability, and the polyester-cotton blended yarn has high strength, and the hand-woven cotton blended yarn and the modal cotton blended yarn have better hand feeling.
  • the spinning method of the intermediate fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber may be air spinning, ring spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning.
  • the spinning method of the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is preferably air-jet spinning (ie, OE yarn), and the advantage of adopting this spinning method is that the yarn is spun by air spinning, and the yarn branch range is relatively narrow.
  • the ingot spinning is small, relatively fluffy, and the yarn arrangement is rather messy, so it feels stiffer when touched.
  • the intermediate fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is a high twist fiber, and a twist of about 10% higher than a normal spinning twist is used. Due to the high twist of the middle layer fiber, the yarn fibers are tightly held and the yarn is strong and can play a stiff role.
  • the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber uses a twist of 5-15% higher than that of the normal spinning, and the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber can also perform a stiffening action.
  • the twist of the middle layer fiber can also be expressed by the ⁇ coefficient, which is 5-15% higher than the normal spinning twist, and the ⁇ coefficient of the middle layer fiber can range from 3.0 to 6.0.
  • the specific conversion formula is as follows:
  • the spinning twist is affected by factors such as the material of the yarn and the size of the yarn. Even if the yarn of the same material or yarn is different, the spinning twist and the twist coefficient of the final product yarn are different.
  • the normal twist is generally 90T/10cm, when the middle layer of fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber uses 32 cotton yarns, the twist is 10% higher than the normal spinning, that is, the spinning twist is 99T/10cm.
  • the ⁇ coefficient is 4.4; 21S cotton yarn, the normal twist is 73T/10cm, when the middle layer of fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber adopts 21 cotton yarns, it is 10% higher than the normal spinning twist, that is, the spinning twist is 80T/10CM.
  • the twist coefficient is 4.4; 32 modal cotton blended yarns, the normal twist is 88T/10cm, the middle layer of fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is made of 32 modal cotton blended yarn, which is 10% higher than the normal spinning twist , that is, the spinning twist is 99T/10cm, the twist coefficient is 4.4; 20S pure Tencel OE yarn, the normal twist is 46T/10cm, and the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is 20S pure Tencel OE yarn, which is normal The spinning twist is 15% higher, that is, the spinning twist is 52.9 T/10 cm, and the twist coefficient is 3.0.
  • the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is a looseness fiber, and the outer roving is generally roving, the twist is small, and the outer roving and the middle spun yarn and the inner elastic yarn are siro spinning.
  • the method is a yarn.
  • the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber plays a soft fluffy and improved hand feeling in the yarn by the loose spinning process.
  • the first one is: firstly, the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn spun from the fiber is spun using a twist which is 10% higher than the normal spinning twist, and then the core layer elastic yarn is used. Spinning process with a minimum twist of about 35T/10cm (25-90T/10cm can be realized, adjusted according to the raw material and thickness of the yarn in the actual operation process); then using the loose spinning process (25-90T/10cm) The outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is wrapped in the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn and the core elastic yarn spun from the fiber.
  • the second type is an outer layer of coarse fibers or a roving of a fiber, or a spun yarn spun from a fiber, which is simultaneously twisted and coated with a core elastic yarn, wherein the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber passes
  • the pine mash method 25-90T/10cm
  • the middle fine fiber was coated with a sorghum method (using a twist of 5-15% higher than the normal spinning twist).
  • the second method is simple and easy to control.
  • the specific process of the second spinning is: the outer fiber material is sequentially subjected to opening, carding, drawing, and roving steps to prepare the roving; the middle layer fiber material is sequentially subjected to opening, carding, drawing, roving,
  • the spinning process produces the spun yarn; through the embedded spinning technology, the inner elastic yarn is introduced into the front roller through the guide wire device, and the stretch yarn has a draw ratio of 1.5 to 4.0, and the middle spun yarn and the outer roving pass through the bell mouth in turn.
  • the rear roller, the middle roller, the front roller, the middle layer of the fine yarn is first wrapped with the inner elastic yarn at the front roller jaw, and then the outer roving is twisted together at the front roller jaw.
  • the yarn is formed in a range of 25-90 T/10 cm; finally, a skeleton yarn having a yarn count of 5S-50S is obtained. Finally, when the yarn is spun together, the twist is small, because the twist is small, the surface of the yarn is fluffy, and the yarn is firm and comfortable to the touch.
  • the yarn has the characteristics of external softness and innerness, the yarn with high inner twist gives the yarn a certain strength, and can be adapted to the warp and weft, and is not limited to the low strength of the ordinary loose yarn. Used as a weft.
  • the main dyes are indigo dye, sulfur dye and reactive dye, but indigo dye and sulfur dye are reducing dyes, because the dye itself is insoluble in water and The problem of color is that when the indigo dye and the sulphur dye are reduced to leuco, the coloring is achieved by three processes of infiltration, diffusion and fixation.
  • the outer layer yarn of the skeleton yarn is relatively bulky, the contact probability of the fibers on the yarn with the dye molecules is increased, so that dyeing molecules are easily infiltrated, diffused, and fixed on the fluffy yarn during dyeing. Therefore, it is possible to effectively cause quality problems such as chromatic aberration when dyeing the yarn, and to a certain extent, the use of dyes and chemicals can be reduced, and at the same time, the dyeing effect can be achieved.
  • the dyed yarn is sized, because the yarn exhibits a tight inner layer structure of the outer layer, and during the sizing process, the slurry is relatively easy to enter the looser fibrous layer of the outer layer, and the inner layer of the yarn is twisted.
  • the present invention also provides a denim fabric, wherein the weft or warp yarn of the denim fabric uses the skeleton yarn.
  • the denim fabric may have a 3/1 twill, 2/1 twill or 1/1 plain weave.
  • the utility model provides a kind of outer pine. Inner hard three-layer yarn structure. Specifically, as shown in FIG.
  • the yarn comprises a central core elastic yarn 1 (spandex in the present embodiment), a middle layer fine fiber coated on the surface of the core layer elastic yarn or a spun yarn spun from the fiber 2 And an outer layer of coarse fibers coated on the surface of the intermediate fine fibers or the spun yarn spun from the fibers or a roving 3 spun from the fibers, wherein the intermediate fine fibers or the spun yarn 2 spun from the fibers are high-twist fibers ( The outer layer of the coarse fiber or the roving 3 spun from the fiber is a looseness fiber (10% lower than that of the normal fiber).
  • the outer layer of the skeleton yarn is fluffy, the middle layer is firm and firm, and a stretch yarn is wrapped in the innermost layer, so that the fabric made of the skeleton yarn shrinks when the elastic yarn wrapped in the core layer is shrunk during washing.
  • the middle layer is not shrinking due to stiffness, and the outer layer fluffy wrinkles with the shrinkage of the elastic yarn.
  • the new retro denim fabric can be made into a normal post-shrinking process, and the clothing version is not caused by the unstable shrinkage rate. Stable and other issues.
  • the spinning method of the skeleton yarn is as follows: firstly, the middle layer fine fiber or the spun yarn 2 spun from the fiber is spun using a twist which is 10% higher than the normal spinning twist. And then with the elastic yarn 1 (semiconductor in this embodiment) spinning with a minimum twist of about 35T / 10cm spinning process (as shown in Figure 2); then using the loose twist spinning process (lower than the normal spinning twist 10 %) The outer coarse fiber or the roving 3 spun from the fiber is wrapped in the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn 2 spun from the fiber and the core elastic yarn 1 (spandex) (as shown in Fig. 3), and the resulting skeleton The overall yarn count of the yarn is 32S.
  • the intermediate fine fiber or the spun yarn 2 spun from the fiber is an OE yarn
  • the outer coarse fiber or the roving 3 spun from the fiber is cotton.
  • the present embodiment further provides a denim fabric QAT01.
  • the weft yarn of the denim fabric QAT01 adopts the above-mentioned skeleton yarn, and the warp yarn adopts ordinary denim yarn, and is made of a 1/1 plain weave structure.
  • another yarn of the same specification is used, and another denim fabric QAT02 is prepared by the same method as a comparison.
  • the performance indexes of QAT01 and QAT02 are as shown in Table 1 below:
  • the present embodiment provides a skeleton yarn which differs from Embodiment 1 only in that the spinning method of the skeleton yarn is as follows: as shown in FIG. 4, the outer layer of coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber. 3 sets of medium-layer fine fibers or spun yarns 2 spun from fibers are simultaneously twisted and coated with the core layer elastic yarn 1, wherein the outer layer of coarse fibers or the rovings 3 spun from the fibers are coated by a loosening method, and the intermediate fine fibers are 2 Coronation by sorghum method.
  • the performance index of the denim fabric obtained by using the skeleton yarn described in this example was not significantly different from that of Example 1.
  • the modal yarn is used, and the outer layer of the coarse fiber is twisted by the loose method to coat the surface of the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn spun, and the spun yarn is spun into a yarn to finally obtain a skeleton yarn of 10S, and the yarn is measured.
  • the twist is 66T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 10S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 right oblique
  • the product fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage rate, latitudinal shrinkage rate, elastic shrinkage rate, weft tear strength and weft tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data are shown in Table 2.
  • the yarn, the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is twisted by a loose method to coat the surface of the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn spun, and is spun into a yarn by twisting to finally obtain a skeleton yarn of 9S.
  • the yarn twist was measured to be 60T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 12S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 left oblique
  • the fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into the ordinary product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage rate, latitudinal shrinkage rate, elastic shrinkage rate, weft tear strength and weft tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data is shown in Table 3.
  • the line twist is 53T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 8S day silk cotton blended yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 right oblique
  • the fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage rate, latitudinal shrinkage rate, elastic shrinkage rate, weft tear strength and weft tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data are shown in Table 4.
  • the roving adopts the Tencel fiber, and the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is coated by the loosening method on the surface of the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn spun, and the spun yarn is spun into a yarn to finally obtain 8S.
  • the yarn twist was measured to be 55T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 9S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 right oblique
  • the fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage, weft shrinkage, elastic shrinkage, warp tear strength and warp tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data are shown in Table 5.
  • the polyester-cotton blended yarn is used, and the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is twisted by a loose method to coat the surface of the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn, and the yarn is spun into a yarn to finally obtain 7S.
  • the skeleton yarn was measured to have a yarn twist of 51T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 6S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 left oblique
  • the product fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage rate, latitudinal shrinkage rate, elastic shrinkage rate, warp tear strength and warp tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data are shown in Table 6.
  • the yarn was measured to have a twist of 75 T/10 cm.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 15S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 left oblique
  • the fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage, weft shrinkage, elastic shrinkage, warp tear strength and warp tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data are shown in Table 7.
  • the yarn was measured to have a yarn twist of 73T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 7S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 left oblique
  • the fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage, weft shrinkage, elastic shrinkage, warp tear strength and warp tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data is shown in Table 8.
  • the roving is made of modal yarn; the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber is twisted by a loose method to coat the surface of the middle fine fiber or the spun yarn, and the yarn is spun and twisted to obtain the yarn.
  • the skeleton yarn of the 11S was measured to have a yarn twist of 68T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 6S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 left oblique
  • the product fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage, weft shrinkage, elastic shrinkage, warp tear strength and warp tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data is shown in Table 9.
  • the 20S skeleton yarn has a yarn twist of 82T/10CM.
  • the skeleton yarn is a weft yarn
  • the 14S pure cotton yarn is a warp yarn
  • the structure is 3/1 left oblique
  • the fabric of the embodiment is woven.
  • the ordinary pure cotton yarn is used as the weft yarn
  • the other fabrics are the same as the fabric of the embodiment, and are woven into a common product fabric.
  • the warp shrinkage, weft shrinkage, elastic shrinkage, warp tear strength and warp tensile strength of the two fabrics were tested. The test data are shown in Table 10.
  • the application of the present invention is not limited to the above examples, for example, the outer coarse fiber or the roving spun from the fiber may be cooled and dried in addition to the cotton mentioned in the embodiment.
  • the fiber with functions such as warmth one or several combinations of tencel fiber, modal fiber and viscose fiber may be used.
  • the structure of the denim fabric may be 3/1 twill, 2/1 twill, etc.
  • the structure of the present invention can be modified or changed in accordance with the above description, and all such improvements and modifications are intended to fall within the scope of the appended claims.

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Abstract

一种骨架纱线和牛仔织物及其骨架纱线的纺纱方法，该纱线包括位于中心的芯层弹力丝（1），包覆在芯层弹力丝（1）表面的中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱（2），和包覆在中层细纤维表面或由纤维纺成的细纱（2）的外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱（3），其中，所述中层细纤维为高捻度纺纱，所述外层粗纤维为松捻度纺纱。纺纱时，先把中层细纤维（2）使用比正常纺纱捻度高10%的捻度纺好,再与芯层弹力丝（1）以最低捻度约35 T/cm的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用松捻度纺纱工艺将外层粗纤维（3）包在中层细纤维（2）与芯层弹力丝（1）上，最终得到的骨架纱线总体的纱支为32S，该骨架纱线具有三层结构。所制备的纱，中层细纤维以高捻度的工艺纺纱，在面料里起着硬挺的作用；外层粗纤维以松捻度工艺纺纱在面料里起着柔软蓬松、改善手感的作用。

Description

一种骨架纱线和牛仔织物 技术领域
本实用新型涉及一种纱线及织物，尤其涉及一种骨架纱线和牛仔织物，属于牛仔纺织技术领域。
背景技术
最早期的牛仔是使用靛兰染色的经纱与全棉无弹的棉纱作纬。粗纱支纹路粗犷，耐磨耐穿耐洗水，布面粗糙而有凹凸皱痕。经过不断改进，富有弹性、手感柔软、加入不同成分的牛仔已走进千家万户、甚至引领潮流。然而近些年潮流兴起复古风，应消费者需求也出现了复古的牛仔面料。但如今牛仔布要做出复古的风格，存在以下的问题：
(1)如今的消费者已习惯了有柔软舒适质感、富有弹性的面料，对于最早期的粗糙牛仔布的质感，是消费者不能接受的；
(2)市面上复古弹力牛仔均是低弹力的牛仔布，因使用高弹力的纱线是难以使布面呈现粗糙感和凹凸皱痕；
(3)复古的牛仔面料风格的形成，是由后处理拉大面料的经向缩水率，使做好的服装在洗水时增大其收缩来形成服装布面凹凸不平的复古感，但这种方法在服装裁剪方面容易出现尺寸不稳定、难以控制，从而导致码数不一，次品率高的缺点。
因此，现有技术还有待于改进和发展。
发明内容
针对上述现有技术中存在的问题，本实用新型的目的在于提供一种骨架纱线，旨在克服现有复古牛仔面料弹力低、肤感不好及尺寸不稳定的缺陷。
本实用新型的技术方案如下：
一种骨架纱线，包括位于中心的芯层弹力丝，包覆在芯层弹力丝表面的中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱，和包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面的外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱，其中，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱为高捻度纤维，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为松捻度纤维。
一种骨架纱线，其纺纱方式如下：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高10％的捻度纺好，再与芯层弹力丝以最低捻度约35T/10cm的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用松捻度纺纱工艺将外层粗纤维包在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱与芯层弹力丝上。
一种骨架纱线，其纺纱方式如下：所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱同时加捻包覆芯层 弹力丝，其中，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱通过高捻方法加捻包覆。
优选的，所述骨架纱线的纱支为6S-40S。
优选的，一种骨架纱线，其中，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱为OE纱。
优选的，一种骨架纱线，其中，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为具有凉爽快干或保暖功能的纤维。
进一步优选的，一种骨架纱线，其中，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为天丝纤维、莫代尔纤维或粘胶纤维。
优选的，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高5-15％的捻度纺好，再与芯层弹力丝以松捻度纺纱的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用松捻度纺纱工艺将外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱与芯层弹力丝上。
优选的，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高10％的捻度纺好，再与芯层弹力丝以捻度25-90T/10cm的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用捻度为25-90T/10cm的纺纱工艺将外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱与芯层弹力丝上。
优选的，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱以25-90T/10cm的捻度加捻包覆，中间细纤维使用比正常纺纱捻度高5-15％的捻度加捻包覆。
优选的，所述骨架纱线的纱支为5S-50S。
优选的，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用纤维长度为8mm-48mm的短纤维。
优选的，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为棉纱、天丝纤维、莫代尔纤维、粘胶纤维、涤棉混纺纱、天丝棉混纺纱或莫代尔棉混纺纱。
优选的，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用短纤维。
优选的，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用棉、含棉混纺纱、非棉及非棉混纺纱或2种以上纤维的混纺纱。
优选的，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用棉纱、涤棉混纺纱、天丝棉混纺纱或莫代尔棉混纺纱。
优选的，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的纱支范围为10S-60S，所述芯层弹力丝的纱支范围为20D-450D。
优选的，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的捻系数为3.0～6.0。
本实用新型的另一目的是提供一种含有上述骨架纱线的牛仔织物。
所述牛仔织物的纬纱采用上述骨架纱线。
所述牛仔织物采用3/1斜纹、2/1斜纹或1/1平纹的组织结构。
本实用新型的有益效果为：本实用新型所述骨架纱线具有三层结构，其中，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱以高捻度的工艺纺纱，在面料里起着硬挺的作用；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱以松捻度纺纱工艺在面料里起着柔软蓬松、改善手感的作用；位于中心的芯层弹力丝在面料里起着收缩作用。采用本实用新型所述的骨架纱线的牛仔织物具有以下优点：1、布面凹凸感效果好，具有良好的复古风格；2、容易洗水，易做出洗水效果，具有多重变化；3、弹性伸长率好，手感舒适；4、缩水率稳定，径向缩水率小，成衣版型稳定。让最终的服装能既具有复古牛仔的粗犷、凹凸皱纹的风格，也有现代牛仔的柔软，贴身，穿着舒适。
附图说明
图1为本实用新型骨架纱线的截面图。
图2为本实用新型实施例1中中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱包覆芯层弹力丝的示意图。
图3为本实用新型实施例1中外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包覆中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的示意图。
图4为本实用新型实施例2中外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱和中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱同时包覆芯层弹力丝的示意图。
具体实施方式
为使本实用新型的目的、技术方案及效果更加清楚、明确，以下举实例对本实用新型进一步详细说明。应当理解，此处所描述的具体实施例仅用于解释本实用新型，并不用于限定本实用新型。
中层细纱是由中层纤维加工纺成的
本实用新型所提供的骨架纱线，包括位于中心的芯层弹力丝，包覆在芯层弹力丝表面的中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱，和包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面的外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱，其中，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱为高捻度纤维，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为松捻度纤维。
进一步地，外层粗纱跟中层和里层一起纺纱成骨架纱，所述骨架纱线的总体支数为6S-40S。经过实验证明，所述骨架纱线的总体支数扩大为5S-50S时也可实现骨架纱线的效果。中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的纱支范围优选为10S-60S，若中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱太细容易断裂，同时也不能体现骨架作用，太粗则无法织造、效果不好。所述芯层弹力丝的纱支范围为20D-450D。
进一步地，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱只能采用短纤维(纤维长度为8mm-48mm)制成，因为短纤绒感强可以更好地使面料获得更好的收缩，从而达到想要的布面效果。所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱可以采用具有凉爽快干或保暖功能的纤维，使面料可以具有凉爽快干或保暖功能。所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱可以采用棉、含棉混纺纱、非棉及非棉混纺纱或2种以上纤维的混纺纱，优选为采用棉纱、天丝纤维、莫代尔纤维、粘胶纤维、涤棉混纺纱、天丝棉混纺纱或莫代尔棉混纺纱等。采用棉纱透气性好，采用涤棉混纺纱强力高，采用天丝棉混纺纱和莫代尔棉混纺纱的手感更好。
所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的原料可以采用短纤维或长纤维制成，其中采用短纤维制成的效果最好，因为短纤维的强力更好。中层通过采用一种或多种混合纤维经纺纱工序制成细纱，使其具有一定的强力和捻度，一来提供骨架纱整体纱线的强力，二来该纱线是在一定的捻度下纺成的纱线，因此提供整体纱线一种突出的感觉，同时硬挺。所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱可以采用棉、含棉混纺纱、非棉及非棉混纺纱或2种以上纤维的混纺纱，优选为采用棉纱、涤棉混纺纱、天丝棉混纺纱或莫代尔棉混纺纱等。采用棉纱透气性好，采用涤棉混纺纱强力高，采用天丝棉混纺纱和莫代尔棉混纺纱的手感更好。所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的纺纱方式可以采用气流纺、环锭纺、赛络纺或紧密纺。所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的纺纱方式优选为采用气流纺(即OE纱)，采用这种纺纱方式的好处是因为气流纺纺出的纱线，纱支范围较环锭纺小，比较蓬松，纱线排列比较杂乱，因此摸起来手感较硬挺。
进一步地，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱为高捻度纤维，使用比正常纺纱捻度高约10％的捻度。由于中层纤维的捻度较高，纱线纤维抱和紧密，纱线强力大，可以起到硬挺的作用。
经过实验证明，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高5-15％的捻度，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱同样可以起到硬挺作用。中层纤维的捻度也可以用捻系数进行表示，比正常纺纱捻度高5-15％的捻度，中层纤维的捻系数范围可以为3.0～6.0。具体换算公式如下所示：
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000001
纺纱捻度受纱线材质、纱支大小等因素影响，即使同一材质、不同纱支的纱线，其纺纱捻度和最终产品纱线的捻系数也是不同的。举例说明，32支棉纱，正常捻度一般为90T/10cm，当中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用32支棉纱时，比正常纺纱捻度高10％，即纺纱捻度为99T/10cm，捻系数为4.4；21S支棉纱，正常捻度是73T/10cm，当中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用21支棉纱时，比正常纺纱捻度高10％，即纺纱捻度为80T/10CM，捻系数为4.4；32支莫代尔棉混纺纱，正常捻度是88T/10cm，当中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用32支莫代尔棉混纺纱时，比正常纺纱捻度高10％，即纺纱捻度为99T/10cm，捻系数为4.4；20S纯天丝OE纱，正常捻度46T/10cm，当中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用20S纯天丝OE纱时，比正常纺纱捻度高15％，即纺纱捻度为52.9T/10cm，捻系数为3.0。
所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为松捻度纤维，外层粗纱一般成粗纱时，捻度是很小的，最后外层粗纱跟中层细纱和里层弹力丝采用赛络纺纺纱方法成纱线。而外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱以松捻度纺纱工艺在纱线里起着柔软蓬松、改善手感的作用。
所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式有两种，第一种是：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高10％的捻度纺好，再与芯层弹力丝以最低捻度约35T/10cm(25-90T/10cm都可实现，实际操作过程中根据纱支原料和粗细进行调节)的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用松捻度纺纱工艺(25-90T/10cm)将外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱与芯层弹力丝上。第二 种是外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱同时加捻包覆芯层弹力丝，其中，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法(25-90T/10cm)加捻包覆，中间细纤维通过高捻方法(使用比正常纺纱捻度高5-15％的捻度)加捻包覆。在实际操作中，第二种方法操作比较简便，易于控制。
进一步地，第二种纺纱的具体流程为：外层纤维材料依次经过开松、梳理、并条、粗纱工序，制备得粗纱；中层纤维材料依次经过开松、梳理、并条、粗纱工序、细纱工序，制备得细纱；通过嵌入式纺纱技术，将里层弹力丝经过导丝装置被引进前罗拉，弹力丝的牵伸倍数1.5～4.0之间，中层细纱、外层粗纱依次经过喇叭口、后罗拉、中罗拉、前罗拉，在经过前罗拉时，中层细纱先与里层弹力丝在前罗拉钳口处进行包缠，然后与外层粗纱一起在前罗拉钳口处进行加捻聚合成纱线，加捻捻度范围为25-90T/10cm；最终得到纱支范围为5S-50S的骨架纱线。最后一起纺成纱线时，采用捻度较小，因为加捻捻度小，纱线表面较蓬松，使纱线摸起来既硬挺又舒适。
由于该纱线具有外柔内刚的特点，里层捻度高的纱线使该纱线具有一定的强力，能够适应用于经纱与纬纱，并不会因一般松捻纱强力低而仅仅限制于作为纬纱使用。当该纱线作为经纱用在牛仔织物时，需要对纱线进行染色，主要染料为靛蓝染料、硫化染料以及活性染料，但靛蓝染料、硫化染料是还原性染料，由于染料本身不溶于水以及上色的问题，只有当靛蓝染料、硫化染料被还原成隐色体，通过浸润、扩散、固着三个过程而达到上色。由于所述骨架纱线的外层纱线较蓬松，增大了纱线上纤维与染料分子的接触机率，因此在染色时，染料分子很容易通过浸润、扩散、固着在叫蓬松的纱线上，因此能够有效纱线染色时出现色差等质量问题，在一定程度上可以减少染料与化学药品的使用，同时能够达到染色效果的需求。对染色后的纱线进行上浆，由于该纱线呈现一种外层松内层紧的结构状态，在上浆的过程中，浆料比较容易进入外层较松的纤维层，里层纱线捻度较高，纱线中纤维抱和紧密，纱线强力大，同时纱线上浆能够使纱线表面毛羽贴服，在保证纱线一定的强力下，可以有效减少上浆率，降低生产成本。综上，本实用新型还提供一种牛仔织物，所述牛仔织物的纬纱或经纱采用所述骨架纱线。所述牛仔织物可以采用3/1斜纹、2/1斜纹或1/1平纹的组织结构。
实施例1
针对现有复古牛仔面料存在的问题，且只有较为硬挺的纱线才能做到具有凹凸感皱痕的复古风格面料，同时考虑到现代对手感及弹性的需求，本实用新型提供了一种外松内硬的三层纱线结构。具体地，如图1所示，此纱线包括位于中心的芯层弹力丝1(本实施例中为氨纶)，包覆在芯层弹力丝表面的中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱2，和包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面的外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱3，其中，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱2为高捻度纤维(比正常纤维的捻度高10％)，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱3为松捻度纤维(比正常纤维的捻度低10％)。整个骨架纱线的外层蓬松、中层硬挺紧实，并在最里层包有一根弹力丝，这样使得采用该骨架纱线制得的面料在洗水时包在芯层的弹力丝收缩时，中层由于硬挺不收缩，外层蓬松随着弹力丝收缩而产生皱痕，由此做出来的新复古牛仔面料可以做正常的后整缩水工艺，不会因为缩水率不稳定而导致服装版型不稳定等问题。
如图2-3所示，本实施例中，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱2使用比正常纺纱捻度高10％的捻度纺好,再与弹力丝1(本实施例中为氨纶)以最低捻度约35T/10cm的纺纱工艺纺好(如图2所示)；然后采用松捻度纺纱工艺(比正常纺纱捻度低10％)将外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱3包在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱2与芯层弹力丝1(氨纶)上(如图3所示)，最终得到的骨架纱线总体的纱支为32S。本实施例中，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱2为OE纱，所示外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱3为棉。
本实施例还提供一种牛仔织物QAT01，所述牛仔织物QAT01的纬纱采用上述骨架纱线，经纱采用普通牛仔用纱线，使用1/1平纹的组织结构制成。为了证明本实用新型的有益效果，采用相同规格的普通纱线，并通过相同的方法制得另一牛仔织物QAT02作为对比，QAT01和QAT02的性能指标如下表1所示：
表1：牛仔织物QAT01和QAT02的性能指标
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000002
实施例2
本实施例提供一种骨架纱线，其与实施例1的不同之处仅在于：所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：如图4所示，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱3包中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱2同时加捻包覆芯层弹力丝1，其中，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱3通过松捻方法加捻包覆，中间细纤维2通过高捻方法加捻包覆。采用本实施例所述的骨架纱线制得的牛仔织物性能指标与实施例1无显著差异。
实施例3
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用40D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用40S涤棉混纺纱，捻系数为TM＝4.2；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用莫代尔纱线，外层粗纤维通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到10S的骨架纱线，测得纱线捻度为66T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以10S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1右斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、纬向撕破强力和纬向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表2所示。
表2
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000003
实施例4
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用20D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用40.S棉纱，捻系数为TM＝4.0；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用莫代尔纱线，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到9S的骨架纱线，测得纱线捻度为60T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以12S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1左斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样， 织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、纬向撕破强力和纬向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表3所示。
表3
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000004
实施例5
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用70D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用20S棉纱，捻系数为TM＝4.7；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用棉纱，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到6S的骨架纱线，测得纱线捻度为53T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以8S天丝棉混纺纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1右斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、纬向撕破强力和纬向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表4所示。
表4
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000005
实施例6
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用80D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用16S天丝棉混纺纱，捻系数为TM＝5.2；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用天丝纤维，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到8S的骨架纱线， 测得纱线捻度为55T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以9S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1右斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、经向撕破强力和经向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表5所示。
表5
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000006
实施例7
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用140D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用14S莫代尔棉混纺纱，捻系数为TM＝5.0；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用涤棉混纺纱，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到7S的骨架纱线，测得纱线捻度为51T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以6S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1左斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、经向撕破强力和经向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表6所示。
表6
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000007
实施例8
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用30D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用50S粘胶纤维，捻系数为TM＝5.4；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用莫代尔棉混纺纱；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到14S的骨架纱线，测得纱线的捻度为75T/10cm。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以15S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1左斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、经向撕破强力和经向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表7所示。
表7
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000008
实施例9
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用40D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用气流纺的40S棉纱，捻系数为TM＝4.8；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用莫代尔纱线；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到12S的骨架纱线，测得纱线捻度为73T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以7S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1左斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、经向撕破强力和经向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表8所示。
表8
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000009
实施例10
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用104D氨纶；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用气流纺的20S涤棉混纺纱，捻系数为TM＝4.5；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用莫代尔纱线；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到11S的骨架纱线，测得纱线捻度为68T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以6S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1左斜，织成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、经向撕破强力和经向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表9所示。
表9
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000010
实施例11
所述骨架纱线，芯层弹力丝采用20D；中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用气流纺的50S，捻系数为TM＝6.0；外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用棉、天丝、涤纶纤维混纺成，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面，通过加捻纺成纱线，最终得到20S的骨架纱线，测得纱线捻度为82T/10CM。
以此骨架纱线为纬纱，以14S纯棉纱线为经纱，组织结构采用3/1左斜，织 成本实施例产品面料。以普通纯棉纱线为纬纱，其他与本实施例产品面料一样，织造成普通产品面料。对两种面料的经向缩水率、纬向缩水率、弹性缩水率、经向撕破强力和经向拉伸强力进行测试，测试数据如表10所示。
表10
Figure PCTCN2019078519-appb-000011
应当理解的是，本实用新型的应用不限于上述的举例，比如，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱除了实施例中提到的棉之外，还可以选用具有凉爽、快干、保暖等功能的纤维，也可以选用天丝纤维、莫代尔纤维、粘胶纤维中的一种或几种组合，所述牛仔织物的组织结构可以采用3/1斜纹、2/1斜纹等多种组织结构，对本领域普通技术人员来说，可以根据上述说明加以改进或变换，所有这些改进和变换都应属于本实用新型所附权利要求的保护范围。

Claims (21)

  1. 一种骨架纱线，其特征在于，包括位于中心的芯层弹力丝，包覆在芯层弹力丝表面的中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱，和包覆在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱表面的外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱，其中，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱为高捻度纤维，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为松捻度纤维。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高10％的捻度纺好，再与芯层弹力丝以最低捻度约35T/10cm的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用松捻度纺纱工艺将外层粗纤维包在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱与芯层弹力丝上。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱同时加捻包覆芯层弹力丝，其中，外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱通过松捻方法加捻包覆，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱通过高捻方法加捻包覆。
  4. 根据权利要求2或3所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述骨架纱线的纱支为6S-40S。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱为OE纱。
  6. 根据权利要求4所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为具有凉爽快干或保暖功能的纤维。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为天丝纤维、莫代尔纤维或粘胶纤维。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高5-15％的捻度纺好，再与芯层弹力丝以松捻度纺纱的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用松捻度纺纱工艺将外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包在中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱与芯层弹力丝上。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：先把中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱使用比正常纺纱捻度高10％的捻度纺好，再与芯层弹力丝以捻度25-90T/10cm的纺纱工艺纺好；然后采用捻度为25-90T/10cm的纺纱工艺将外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱包在中层细纤维或由 纤维纺成的细纱与芯层弹力丝上。
  10. 据权利要求3所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述骨架纱线的纺纱方式如下：外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱以25-90T/10cm的捻度加捻包覆，中间细纤维使用比正常纺纱捻度高5-15％的捻度加捻包覆。
  11. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述骨架纱线的纱支为5S-50S。
  12. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱采用纤维长度为8mm-48mm的短纤维。
  13. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述外层粗纤维或由纤维纺成的粗纱为棉纱、天丝纤维、莫代尔纤维、粘胶纤维、涤棉混纺纱、天丝棉混纺纱或莫代尔棉混纺纱。
  14. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用短纤维。
  15. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用棉、含棉混纺纱、非棉及非棉混纺纱或2种以上纤维的混纺纱。
  16. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱采用棉纱、涤棉混纺纱、天丝棉混纺纱或莫代尔棉混纺纱。
  17. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的纱支范围为10S-60S，所述芯层弹力丝的纱支范围为20D-450D。
  18. 根据权利要求1所述的骨架纱线，其特征在于，所述中层细纤维或由纤维纺成的细纱的捻系数为3.0～6.0。
  19. 一种含有权利要求1-18中任一项所述骨架纱线的牛仔织物。
  20. 一种牛仔织物，其特征在于，所述牛仔织物的纬纱采用权利要求1-18中任一项所述的骨架纱线。
  21. 根据权利要求20所述的牛仔织物，其特征在于，采用3/1斜纹、2/1斜纹或1/1平纹的组织结构。
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