WO2021195962A1 - 一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料 - Google Patents

一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021195962A1
WO2021195962A1 PCT/CN2020/082430 CN2020082430W WO2021195962A1 WO 2021195962 A1 WO2021195962 A1 WO 2021195962A1 CN 2020082430 W CN2020082430 W CN 2020082430W WO 2021195962 A1 WO2021195962 A1 WO 2021195962A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
warp
elastic
weft
fabric
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PCT/CN2020/082430
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
王宗文
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广东前进牛仔布有限公司
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Priority to PCT/CN2020/082430 priority Critical patent/WO2021195962A1/zh
Priority to US17/914,847 priority patent/US20230144350A1/en
Publication of WO2021195962A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021195962A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D17/00—Woven fabrics having elastic or stretch properties due to manner of weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/43—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with differing diameters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14—Dyeability
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a novel woven warp-knitted fabric.
  • woven fabrics are stable structure, diversified styles and appearances, smooth cloth surface, and generally do not sag when draped. It is suitable for various cutting methods, but its air permeability and hand feel are not as good as knitted fabrics.
  • the warp knitted fabric has a different structure and style from the weft knitted fabric.
  • the warp knitted fabric has the advantages of small dispersibility, firmness, and good dimensional stability. The effect of impact.
  • the warping and weaving of warp knitting have higher requirements for the strength and elongation of the yarn.
  • Chemical fibers are often used in production, and yarns spun from short fibers (such as cotton fibers) are rarely used. Because the strength of short fiber spun yarn is not as good as polyester, nylon and other chemical fibers, it is easy to damage the mechanical properties of cotton yarn due to tension fluctuations in the warping and weaving process of warp knitting; and because of the short fiber processing yarn There are hairiness and neps, etc.
  • the patent application with application number PCT/CN/2019/105244 discloses a woven fabric that is imitated by warp knitting, which uses a warp double weave and uses two yarns with two shrinkage rates (same or different), and uses inelastic yarns.
  • the inner warp is wound on the back of the fabric for a certain length, and the contraction of the elastic surface warp causes the inner warp to form a certain arc loop on the back of the fabric, so that the fabric not only has the appearance of a woven fabric, but also has the good air permeability and feel of the warp knitted fabric. Good features.
  • the surface warp yarn adopts a yarn with high elasticity, which will cause the following problems:
  • the elastic filament in the elastic yarn is generally not colored.
  • the surface of the yarn is easy to wear, which causes the core of the yarn, which seriously affects the quality of the fabric and requires manual repair. Color processing, resulting in high labor costs.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a new type of woven warp-knitted fabric, which aims to solve the problem that the existing woven warp-knitted fabric uses elastic yarn as the surface warp yarn. It is difficult to warp, easy to appear chromatic aberrations during dyeing, and needs to be manually trimmed.
  • a new type of woven fabric imitating warp knitting including the first warp yarn, the second warp yarn, the third warp yarn and the weft yarn; Three warps and wefts are interwoven into the inner layer of the fabric;
  • At least 3 weft weave points are set between two adjacent sets of warp weave points on the third warp yarn, and the number of warp weave points in each group is at least one;
  • the first warp yarn is an inelastic yarn
  • the third warp yarn is an elastic yarn or an inelastic yarn
  • the elastic property of the second warp yarn is greater than that of the first warp yarn and the third warp yarn.
  • the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the third warp yarn is 1:5 to 4:1, and the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the second warp yarn is 1:4 to 3: 1.
  • the surface layer and the middle layer are 1/1 plain weave or the number of cycles of the basic weave is 3-8.
  • the surface layer and the middle layer are plain weave, twill weave or satin weave.
  • the first warp yarn is a yarn processed by using short fibers
  • the second warp yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn processed by using short fibers to coat elastic yarns , It is one of the elastic filaments and elastic core-spun yarns processed by filaments covered with elastic yarns
  • the third warp yarn is a yarn processed with short fibers and processed with short fibers covered with elastic yarns.
  • the yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S;
  • the third warp yarn is a core-spun yarn made of short fiber covered with stretch yarn, its yarn count range is 6S-60S, and the yarn count range of stretch yarn is 20D-300D;
  • the yarn count range is 6S-60S;
  • the overall yarn count range is 6S ⁇ 60S, and the yarn count range of elastic yarn is 20D ⁇ 300D;
  • the second warp yarn is a filament with elasticity, its yarn count range is 20D-450D;
  • the overall yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D, and the yarn count of the elastic yarn ranges from 20D to 300D.
  • the third warp yarn and the first warp yarn have the same inch count or the third warp yarn has a larger inch count than the first warp yarn.
  • the first warp yarn is cotton, and its yarn count ranges from 8S to 38S;
  • the second warp yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn made of filaments covered with elastic yarn, the overall yarn count range is 50D-150D, and the yarn count range of the elastic yarn is 20D-105D;
  • the third warp yarn is a yarn processed from short fibers, and its yarn count range is 16S-60S; or it is a yarn processed from filaments, and its yarn count range is 50D-450D.
  • the new type of woven warp-knitted fabric optimizes the organization structure, so that the three-layer structure of the fabric can not only ensure the quality and strength of the fabric, but also make the fabric have good bulkiness.
  • the cloth surface is fluffy and light, with good air permeability, good cloth surface feel, and good wearing comfort.
  • the first warp yarn uses non-elastic yarn, it is easier to control the yarn tension uniformly and can be used during warping compared with the prior art. To avoid the phenomenon of back-twisted yarn after yarn breakage, it is easier to warp, and the production efficiency is higher. During dyeing, it can avoid the generation of color difference caused by the excessive difference in the stretching length of the first warp yarn. In addition, even the surface of the first warp yarn is worn There is no core exposure problem, and no manual color correction is required, thereby reducing high labor costs.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the fabric structure of a novel woven warp-knitted fabric provided by the present invention.
  • Figure 2 is a structural diagram of the novel woven warp-knitted fabric in Example 1 of the present invention.
  • Figure 3 is a structural diagram of the novel woven warp-knitted fabric in Example 2 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 4 is a structural diagram of the novel woven warp-knitted fabric in Example 3 of the present invention.
  • a new type of woven warp-knitted fabric includes a first warp yarn 1, a second warp yarn 2, a third warp yarn 3 and a weft yarn 4; the first warp yarn 1 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven into The surface layer of the fabric, the second warp yarn 2 and weft yarn 4 are interwoven into the middle layer of the fabric, and the third warp yarn 3 and weft yarn 4 are interwoven into the inner layer of the fabric;
  • At least 3 weft weave points are arranged between two adjacent sets of warp weave points, and the number of warp weave points in each group is at least one;
  • the first warp yarn 1 is an inelastic yarn
  • the third warp yarn 3 is an elastic yarn or an inelastic yarn
  • the elastic performance of the second warp yarn 2 is greater than that of the first warp yarn and the third warp yarn.
  • first, second, and third warp yarns are only for the convenience of description, and do not necessarily mean the number of warp yarns and weft yarns, but only for the convenience of describing the fabric.
  • the first warp yarn 1 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven into the front of the fabric, and the front of the fabric can be designed according to different styles, such as 3/1 twill, with a classic denim style.
  • the third warp yarn 3 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven to form the back of the fabric. By continuously setting multiple weft points on the back side, the tightness of the fabric after the third warp yarn 3 and the weft yarn 4 are interlaced is relatively small. When the fabric is compressed, it is easier to be compressed , It is beneficial to improve the air permeability, feel and bulkiness of the fabric.
  • the second warp yarn 3 and the weft yarn 4 are interwoven into the middle layer of the fabric between the surface warp and the inner warp, which will not affect the hand feel, but can also drive the third warp yarn to shrink to form a loop with a certain arc, as shown in Figure 1, to make the third warp yarn
  • the first warp uses inelastic yarns, it is easier to control the yarn tension evenly during warping and to avoid the phenomenon of reverse twist yarn after yarn breakage.
  • the warping is easier and the production efficiency is higher.
  • the difference in the stretched length of the first warp yarn is too large, which leads to chromatic aberration.
  • the existing double-organized warp-knitted fabric is subject to long-term stress on human knees, elbows, buttocks, etc., which easily damages the elastic properties of the surface yarns, which directly cause these positions to start.
  • the second warp yarn has elasticity and can provide elasticity in the warp direction and can be stretched under force, while the first warp yarn has no elasticity.
  • it can be The front of the fabric is interwoven tightly, so that the fabric at the knees, elbows, buttocks, etc.
  • the present invention can achieve the effects of compactness, slimness, comfort and no drumming due to changes in elastic properties.
  • 4-16 weft weave points are provided between two adjacent sets of warp weave points on the third warp yarn 3. Because the finished fabric will undergo desizing, alkaline boiling, washing and other treatments during the post-finishing treatment, if there are too many weft points, the yarn fibers that are not interwoven by the warp and weft will hug each other and not tightly, and the surface of the yarn will be hairy. The increase will cause certain damage to the strength of the yarn, and kinks will occur between the yarn and the yarn. The back of the fabric is in contact with the skin and rubs against the skin in daily wear, which makes the kinks or cross-entanglement between the yarn and the yarn more serious, which seriously affects the style and feel of the fabric.
  • the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the third warp yarn is 1:5 to 4:1, and the arrangement ratio of the first warp yarn to the second warp yarn is 1:4 to 3:1.
  • the number of complete weave cycle warps of the fabric is equal to the sum of the least common multiple of the basic weave warp cycle number and the arrangement ratio; the complete weave cycle weft number of the fabric is equal to the least common multiple of the basic weave weft cycle number.
  • the front of the fabric can present a woven style, and the fabric has the style of traditional denim.
  • the surface layer and the middle layer can be plain weave, twill weave or satin weave; specifically, the surface and middle layer can be 1/1 plain weave or the number of cycles of the basic weave is 3-8.
  • 7 to 13 weft weave points are arranged between two adjacent sets of warp weave points on the third warp yarn 3.
  • the non-elastic yarn can be all yarns that do not have elasticity in the prior art, such as cotton yarn, chemical fiber filament, tencel, modal, wool yarn, tencel cotton blended yarn, cotton modal blended yarn, etc.
  • the elastic yarn can be all yarns with elasticity in the prior art, such as single core-spun yarn, double core-spun yarn, more specifically it can be cotton yarn covered Lycra, cotton yarn covered polyester covered Lycra, cotton yarn covered chemical fiber elastic silk covered Lycra, cotton yarn covered Chemical fiber stretch yarn, etc.
  • the first warp yarn 1 may be a yarn processed by using short fibers;
  • the second warp yarn 2 may be an elastic core-spun yarn processed by using short fibers to coat elastic yarn, a filament with elasticity, and a long yarn.
  • the third warp yarn 3 can be a yarn processed by short fiber, a core-spun yarn processed by short fiber-covered elastic yarn, or short fiber
  • the staple fiber can be cotton fiber, hemp fiber, tencel, modal, acrylic, viscose, rayon, polyester, nylon, sea-island silk, etc., Cotton fiber is preferred.
  • the yarn count range is 6S ⁇ 60S; if the third warp yarn 3 is a core-spun yarn processed by using short fibers covered with elastic yarns , The yarn count range is 6S-60S, and the yarn count range of stretch yarn is 20D-300D; if the third warp yarn 3 is a core-spun yarn processed by short fiber covering inelastic filaments, the yarn count range is 6S-60S; if the second warp yarn 2 is an elastic core-spun yarn made of short fiber covered with stretch yarn, the overall yarn count range is 6S ⁇ 60S, and the yarn count range of stretch yarn is 20D ⁇ 300D; The warp yarn 2 is a filament with elasticity, and its yarn count range is 20D-450D; if the second warp yarn 2 is an elastic core-spun yarn processed by filament covering elastic yarn, its overall yarn count range is 40D ⁇ 600D, the yarn count range of stretch yarn is 20D ⁇ 300D.
  • the inch count of the third warp yarn 3 is the same as that of the first warp yarn 1 or the inch count of the third warp yarn 3 is larger than that of the first warp yarn 1.
  • the average yarn count on the back of the fabric is thicker than the front, which has a great impact on the appearance of the front of the fabric, which will make the lines on the front of the fabric unclear. Therefore, the inch count of the third warp 3 is greater than or equal to the first warp 1 (that is, the third The yarn count of warp yarn 3 is not thicker than that of first warp yarn 1) to ensure clear lines on the front of the fabric, preferably the third warp yarn has a larger imperial count than the first warp, which can further improve the clear lines on the front of the fabric Spend.
  • the first warp yarn is cotton, and its yarn count range is 8S-38S;
  • the second warp yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn processed by filament covering elastic yarn, and its overall yarn count ranges from 50D-150D, and the yarn count of elastic yarn
  • the count range is 20D ⁇ 105D;
  • the third warp is a yarn processed from short fibers, and its yarn count range is 16S-60S; or it is a yarn processed from filaments, and its yarn count range is 50D-450D .
  • the weft yarn 4 may be a yarn processed by using short fibers or filaments. If the first weft yarn is made of short fibers, the yarn count can range from 6S to 60S. If the weft yarn 4 is a yarn processed by filament, the yarn count can range from 40D to 600D. If the weft yarn is elastic, the yarn can be an elastic core-spun yarn processed by short fiber covered elastic yarn (such as short fiber covered spandex yarn) or an elastic core-spun yarn processed by filament covered elastic yarn. If the weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn processed by using short fibers to cover the elastic yarn, the overall yarn count ranges from 6S to 60S, and the range of the elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D.
  • the weft yarn is an elastic core-spun yarn made of filament covered with elastic yarn, the overall yarn count ranges from 40D to 600D, and the range of elastic yarn is from 20D to 300D.
  • the weft yarn can be a single core-spun yarn or a double core-spun yarn, for example, cotton yarn covered spandex, cotton yarn covered polyester covered spandex, cotton yarn covered chemical fiber stretch yarn, and the like.
  • the optional range of the second weft yarn is the same as that of the first weft yarn.
  • the fabric not only has the appearance style of woven fabric, but also has the characteristics of good air permeability and good hand feeling of warp knitted fabric.
  • the cloth is fluffy and light.
  • the new type of woven warp-knitted fabric uses three systems of warp and weft interweaving layers. Driven by the elasticity of the second warp, the third warp forms more loops with a certain arc on the reverse side of the fabric. Compared with fabrics of the same thickness, the space for storing air is lighter in weight and feels more fluffy.
  • the first warp yarn is a non-elastic yarn, if it is to be dyed, its color absorption is deeper, which can avoid the problem of color difference when the outer surface is dyed;
  • Double-sidedness The warp colors of the front and back sides can be the same on both sides or different on both sides.
  • the fashion expression is stronger, allowing designers to have more room to play; at the same time, it can also allow consumers to achieve the effect of wearing more clothes.
  • the fabric feels good.
  • the invention is a special structure.
  • the loops with a certain curvature on the back of the fabric are vertical loops. When the skin and the fabric are rubbed up and down, the loops with a certain curvature follow the direction of movement of the skin, which can greatly reduce the generation of the fabric on the skin. Of discomfort.
  • the weave structure of the new woven warp-knitted fabric provided by this embodiment is shown in Figure 2.
  • Colored grids represent warp weave points
  • blank grids represent weft weave points
  • area A of the fabric is the surface layer
  • its weave structure is 3. /1 right twill
  • the area of B is the middle layer
  • its structure is 1/1 plain weave
  • the area of C is the inner layer
  • its structure is 8 satin patterns with 5 flying wefts.
  • the piercing method adopts the form of fly-through, the piercing method: 1 5 7 2 6 8 3 5 9 4 6 10 1 5 11 2 6 12 3 5 13 4 6 14 piercing: 4 in one reed.
  • the first warp yarn the yarn count is 8S pure cotton yarn, and the yarn color is indigo;
  • the second warp yarn is 95D polyester and 40D yarn;
  • the third warp yarn the yarn count is combed 50S pure cotton, and the yarn color is white;
  • Weft yarn core-spun yarn with a yarn count of 100% cotton 16S covered with 40D spandex;
  • the machine reed number on the warp yarn is 62 reed (4 entries);
  • the density of weft yarn weaving machine is: 46T;
  • the air permeability of the fabric can reach 48.65mm/s, and the air permeability is good; the bulkiness can reach 322.26cm 3 /g, and the bulkiness is good. It can be seen from the data in the table that the fabric has good elasticity and good anti-slip ability.
  • the appearance style of the fabric such as clear diagonal lines, three-dimensional sense, tightly interwoven warp and weft yarns, due to the design of the structure, the fabric feels soft and comfortable to the touch. When it is close to the skin, it has a skin-friendly touch, comfortable, soft, nature.
  • the organizational structure of the new woven warp-knitted fabric provided by this embodiment is shown in Figure 3.
  • Colored grids represent warp weave points
  • blank grids represent weft weave points
  • the fabric area A is the surface layer, and its weave structure is 2.
  • the /1 weft side is left oblique
  • the B area is the middle layer
  • its structure is plain weave
  • the C area is the inner layer
  • its structure is 5/1 weft right oblique satin.
  • the piercing method adopts the form of flying through, the piercing method: 1 9 11 2 10 12 3 9 13 4 10 14 5 9 15 6 10 16 7 9 17 8 10 18, piercing reed: 4 in one reed.
  • the first warp yarn the yarn count is 16S pure cotton slub yarn, and the yarn color is indigo;
  • the second warp yarn is 50D nylon wrapped 70D yarn;
  • the third warp yarn the yarn count is combed 50S Tencel cotton yarn, and the yarn color is white;
  • Weft yarn core-spun yarn with yarn count of pure cotton 21S covered 70D spandex;
  • the machine reed number on the warp yarn is 70 reed (4 entries);
  • the density of the weft yarn weaving machine is: 52T;
  • the air permeability of the fabric can reach 36.58mm/s, and the air permeability is good; the bulkiness can reach 302.36cm 3 /g, and the bulkiness is good. It can be seen from the data in the table that the fabric has good elasticity and good anti-slip ability.
  • the appearance style of the fabric such as clear diagonal lines, three-dimensional sense, tightly interwoven warp and weft yarns, due to the design of the structure, the fabric feels soft and comfortable to the touch. When it is close to the skin, it has a skin-friendly touch, comfortable, soft, nature.
  • the organizational structure of the new woven warp-knitted fabric provided by this embodiment is shown in Figure 4.
  • Colored grids represent warp weave points
  • blank grids represent weft weave points
  • the fabric area A is the surface layer
  • its weave structure is 8 3 flying warp surface satin
  • the B area is the middle layer
  • its structure is 1/1 plain weave
  • the C area is the inner layer
  • its structure is 5/1 weft right twill satin.
  • the first warp yarn the yarn count is 21S pure cotton slub yarn, and the yarn color is sulfur black;
  • the second warp yarn is 50D nylon wrapped 20D yarn;
  • the third warp yarn the yarn count is combed 60S Tencel cotton yarn, and the yarn color is white;
  • Weft yarn core-spun yarn with yarn count of pure cotton 26S covered 70D spandex;
  • the reed number on the warp yarn is 82 reed (4 entries);
  • the density of weft yarn weaving machine is: 70T;
  • the air permeability of the fabric can reach 35.64mm/s, and the air permeability is good; the bulkiness can reach 289.64cm 3 /g, and the bulkiness is good. It can be seen from the data in the table that the fabric has good elasticity and good anti-slip ability.
  • the appearance style of the fabric such as clear diagonal lines, three-dimensional sense, tightly intertwined warp and weft yarns, due to the design of the structure, the fabric feels soft and comfortable to the touch. When it is close to the skin, it has a skin-friendly touch, comfortable, soft, nature.

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Abstract

本发明公开一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料，包括第一经纱、第二经纱、第三经纱和纬纱；第一经纱与纬纱交织成织物的表层，第二经纱与纬纱交织成织物的中层，第三经纱与纬纱交织成织物的里层；第三经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置至少3个纬组织点，每组经组织点的数量至少为1个；第一经纱为非弹性纱，第三经纱为弹性纱或非弹性纱，第二经纱的弹性性能比第一经纱和第三经纱大；该面料既具有梭织面料的外观风格，也具有经编面料的透气性好、手感好的特点，且整经更容易、可避免染色时出现色差且无需人工进行修色处理，有利于降低人工成本高。

Description

一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料 技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，尤其涉及一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料。
背景技术
随着社会经济的发展和人们生活水平的提高，人们对服装的要求越来越高，越来越多的人们在追求服装具有休闲、修身、款式等时，也对服装的舒适性提出了更高的追求，因此消费者希望在面料外观上具有传统牛仔的风格，又要求其柔软轻薄、舒适透气、弹性性能优良。
而梭织织物的主要优点是结构稳定，风格外观多样化，布面平整，悬垂时一般不出现驰垂现象，适合各种剪裁方法，但其透气性、手感等性能则不如针织织物。
随着针织技术的快速发展，针织物的线圈结构为这些优良的服用性能提供了可能，因此市场上出现了纬编针织牛仔面料。但是，纬编针织牛仔面料虽然有良好的纬向延伸性，却不能适应服装的尺寸稳定性要求，满足不了市场的要求。
而经编织物具有不同于纬编织物的结构和风格，经编织物具有脱散性小、牢固、尺寸稳定性好的优点，通过纱线原料、组织结构和后整理的调整可产生对视觉有冲击的效果。但经编的整经和织造对纱线的强伸性能要求较高，生产上常采用化学纤维，很少采用短纤维(如棉纤维)纺成的纱线。因为短纤维纺成的纱线的强度不如涤纶、锦纶等化学纤维，在经编的整经和织造过程中易因张力波动而导致棉纱的 力学性能受到损伤；并且由于短纤维加工成的纱线有毛羽和棉结等，在经编整经或者织造生产过程中纠缠和聚集的毛羽或棉结会堵塞分纱筘和导纱针从而引起断纱。因此由短纤维加工而成的纱线在经编生产中除了对纱线的强力有要求外，对纱线的毛羽要求更高，粗支纱线更加难以达到此要求，这就限制了经编面料的外观风格。
为此，申请号为PCT/CN/2019/105244的专利申请公开了一种梭织仿经编的面料，用经二重组织采用两种收缩率(相同或不同)的纱线，采用无弹性里经纱绕于面料背面一定长度，并由弹性表经纱的收缩使得里经纱在织物背面形成一定弧度的线圈，使面料既具有梭织面料的外观风格，又具有经编面料的透气性好、手感好的特点。
如上述专利申请的组织结构，其表层经纱采用弹性性能大的纱线，会导致以下问题：
1.由于在进行整经时主要是对表层经纱进行拉伸，如果某些经纱在拉伸时张力不够，弹性纱线会回弹收缩在一起，同时经纱张力控制不宜过大，这样会使纱线弹性性能变小且难以控制张力均匀，因此需要工作人员针对不同的纱线纱支大小、捻度大小、弹性性能大小进行大量的调机工作，因而导致生产效率低；在整经时，纱线容易出现断经的现象，对于弹性纱线容易出现因为断经而产生“倒捻纱”现象，即纱线断裂以后由于弹性收缩，纱线卷绕在一起，特别是弹性大、纱线英制支数大、捻度高的纱线，收缩卷绕后很难拉直，从而影响整经效果；
2.在浆染联合机中进行染色时，纱线需要经过很多个导纱辊，并 通过导纱辊控制纱线张力，难以保证张力均匀，导致各弹性纱线的拉伸长度不同，进而导致纱线在染色时会存在纱线染色不均匀，从而导致色差问题的出现，同时也会存在“倒捻纱”现象；
3.弹性纱线里面的弹性长丝一般是不上色的，纱线在拉伸或者织造时，纱线表面容易磨损，从而造成纱线露芯现象，严重影响面料的质量，需要人工进行修色处理，从而造成人工成本高。
因此需提供一种新的组织结构来解决以上问题。
发明内容
针对上述现有技术中存在的问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料，旨在解决现有的梭织仿经编的面料采用弹性纱线作为表层经纱而导致整经困难、染色时容易出现色差、需要人工进行修色处理的问题。
本发明的技术方案如下：
一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料，包括第一经纱、第二经纱、第三经纱和纬纱；第一经纱与纬纱交织成织物的表层，第二经纱与纬纱交织成织物的中层，第三经纱与纬纱交织成织物的里层；
第三经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置至少3个纬组织点，每组经组织点的数量至少为1个；
第一经纱为非弹性纱，第三经纱为弹性纱或非弹性纱，第二经纱的弹性性能比第一经纱和第三经纱大。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述第三经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置4～16个纬组织点。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，第一经纱与第三经纱的排列比为1:5～4:1，第一经纱与第二经纱的排列比为1:4～3:1。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述表层和中层中，经纱和纬纱交织的经组织点为1～7个。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述表层和中层为1/1平纹组织或者其基础组织循环数为3～8。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述表层和中层为平纹组织、斜纹组织或缎纹组织。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述第三经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～13个纬组织点。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述第一经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线；所述第二经纱为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱、本身带有弹性的长丝、采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱中的一种；第三经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线、采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的包芯纱、采用短纤维包覆非弹性长丝加工成的包芯纱中的一种；
当第一经纱或第三经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为6S～60S；
当第三经纱为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的包芯纱，其纱支范围为6S-60S，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D-300D；
当第三经纱为采用短纤维包覆非弹性长丝加工成的包芯纱，其纱支范围为6S-60S；
当第二经纱为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为6S～60S，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～300D；
当第二经纱为本身带有弹性的长丝，其纱支范围为20D‐450D；
当第二经纱为采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～300D。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述第三经纱与第一经纱的纱线的英制支数相同或者第三经纱的纱线的英制支数比第一经纱大。
所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料中，所述第一经纱为棉，其纱支范围为8S-38S；
所述第二经纱为采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为50D-150D,弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～105D；
所述第三经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为16S-60S；或者为采用长丝加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为50D-450D。
本发明的有益效果为：
本发明提供的一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料，通过对组织结构进行优化，使三层组织结构的面料既能保证面料的质量和强度，又能使面料具有良好的蓬松度。布面蓬松、轻盈，透气性好、布面手感好，穿着舒适性好，且由于第一经纱使用非弹性纱，与现有技术相比，在整经时更容易控制纱线张力均匀且可避免断纱后出现倒捻纱现象，因此整经更容易，生产效率更高，在染色时可避免各第一经纱拉伸长度差异过大而导致色差的产生，此外，第一经纱即使表面磨损也不存在露芯问题，无需人工进行修色处理，从而降低人工成本高。
附图说明
图1为发明提供的新型的梭织仿经编的面料的面料结构示意图。
图2为本发明实施例1中新型的梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构图。
图3为本发明实施例2中新型的梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构图。
图4为本发明实施例3中新型的梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构图。
具体实施方式
为使本发明的目的、技术方案及效果更加清楚、明确，以下举实例对本发明进一步详细说明。应当理解，此处所描述的具体实施例仅用于解释本发明，并不用于限定本发明。
请参考图1，本发明所提供的一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料，包括第一经纱1、第二经纱2、第三经纱3和纬纱4；第一经纱1与纬纱4交织成织物的表层，第二经纱2与纬纱4交织成织物的中层，第三经纱3与纬纱4交织成织物的里层；
第三经纱3上相邻两组经组织点之间设置至少3个纬组织点，每组经组织点的数量至少为1个；
第一经纱1为非弹性纱，第三经纱3为弹性纱或非弹性纱，第二经纱2的弹性性能比第一经纱和第三经纱大。
需要说明的是，第一、第二、第三经纱只是为了方便描述，并不代表一定是经纱和纬纱数量，只是方便对织物进行描述。
第一经纱1与纬纱4交织成织物的正面，织物的正面可以根据不同的风格进行设计，如3/1斜纹，具有经典的牛仔风格。第三经纱3与纬纱4交织成织物的背面，通过在背面连续设置多个纬组织点，因此，第三经纱3与纬纱4交织后织物紧度小，当织物被压缩时，比较容易被压缩，有利于提高织物的透气性、手感和蓬松度。第二经纱3与纬纱4交织成织物的位于表经和里经之间的中层，既不影响手感，又能带动第三经纱收缩形成一定弧度的线圈，如图1所示，使第三经纱3与纬纱4之间存在较多储存空气的空间30，使得织物背面摸起来手感柔软，透气性好，蓬松度好。因此，本发明的织物背面与皮肤接触时舒适性好。而且由于第一经纱使用非弹性纱，在整经时更容易控制纱线张力均匀且可避免断纱后出现倒捻纱现象，因此整经更容易，生产效率更高，在染色时可避免各第一经纱拉伸长度差异过大而导致色差的产生，此外，第一经纱即使表面磨损也不存在露芯问题，无需人工进行修色处理，从而降低人工成本高。
在面料实际使用过程中，现有的经二重组织的仿经编面料在人体膝盖、手肘、臀部等位置由于长时间的受力，容易使表层纱线弹性性能损伤，直接导致这些位置起鼓，进而不能实现紧身舒适的效果；而本发明的三层结构中，第二经纱具有弹性，能够在经向提供弹力并受力拉伸，而第一经纱没有弹性，与纬纱交织时，可使织物正面交织紧密，从而使得膝盖、手肘、臀部等位置位置面料贴身紧实，并不会由于纱线弹力性能变化而造成起鼓影响织物的美观；特别是在臀部、腹部位置由于织物正面的紧实、第二层的弹性，使得这些位置能够起到 良好的提臀和瘦身的效果。可见，本发明能够实现紧实瘦身、舒适而不因弹性性能变化而起鼓的效果。
在一些优选的实施方式中，第三经纱3上相邻两组经组织点之间设置4～16个纬组织点。因为制成的面料在进行后整理处理时会经过退浆、碱煮、洗水等处理，如果纬组织点过多，经纬纱未交织的纱线纤维会相互抱和不紧密，纱线表面毛羽增加，对纱线的强力造成一定的损伤，同时纱线与纱线之间会发生相互扭结。织物背面跟皮肤接触，在日常穿着中与皮肤之间进行摩擦，使得纱线与纱线之间扭结或者交叉相缠更加严重，严重影响面料的风格和手感。如果纬组织点过少时，在织物背面经纬纱交织较紧密，织物不容易被拉伸，因此使得人体穿着时某些部位受力大，有挤压感，从而导致穿着不舒适的感觉。在第三经纱3上相邻两组经组织点之间设置4～16个纬组织点时，纱线与纱线之间不会出现交缠的情况，在此范围内织物交织紧度适中。
优选地，第一经纱与第三经纱的排列比为1:5～4:1，第一经纱与第二经纱的排列比为1:4～3:1。
在一些实施方式中，该面料的完全组织循环经纱数等于基础组织经纱循环数的最小公倍数与排列比之和；其完全组织循环纬纱数等于基础组织纬纱循环数的最小公倍数。
在一些优选的实施方式中，所述表层和中层中，经纱和纬纱交织的经组织点为1～7个。这样可使面料正面呈现梭织的风格，使面料具有传统牛仔的风格。
其中，表层和中层可以是平纹组织、斜纹组织或缎纹组织；具体的，表层和中层可以是1/1平纹组织或者其基础组织循环数为3～8。
在一些优选的实施方式中，第三经纱3上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～13个纬组织点。
其中，非弹性纱可以为现有技术中所有不具有弹力的纱线，例如棉纱、化纤长丝、天丝、莫代尔、羊毛纱、天丝棉混纺纱、棉莫代尔混纺纱等。弹性纱可以为现有技术中所有具有弹力的纱线，例如单包芯纱、双包芯纱，更具体可以为棉纱包莱卡、棉纱包涤纶包莱卡、棉纱包化纤弹力丝包莱卡、棉纱包化纤弹力丝等。
进一步的，第一经纱1可以为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线；第二经纱2可以为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱、本身带有弹性的长丝、采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱中的一种；第三经纱3可以为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线、采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的包芯纱、采用短纤维包覆非弹性长丝加工成的包芯纱中的一种；其中，短纤维可以为棉纤维、麻纤维、天丝、莫代尔、腈纶、粘胶、人棉、涤纶、锦纶、海岛丝等，优选棉纤维。
若第一经纱1或第三经纱3为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，则其纱支范围为6S～60S；若第三经纱3为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的包芯纱，则其纱支范围为6S-60S，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D-300D；若第三经纱3为采用短纤维包覆非弹性长丝加工成的包芯纱，则其纱支范围为6S-60S；若第二经纱2为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，则其整体纱支范围为6S～60S，弹力丝的纱支范围为 20D～300D；若第二经纱2为本身带有弹性的长丝，则其纱支范围为20D‐450D；若第二经纱2为采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～300D。
在一些优选的实施方式中，第三经纱3与第一经纱1的纱线的英制支数相同或者第三经纱3的纱线的英制支数比第一经纱1大。织物的背面平均纱支粗过正面，对织物正面外观影响大，会使得织物正面的纹路不清晰，因此，第三经纱3的纱线的英制支数大于或等于第一经纱1(即第三经纱3的纱支不粗于第一经纱1的纱支)有利于保证织物正面的纹路清晰，优选为第三经纱的纱线英制支数比第一经纱大，可以进一步提高织物正面的纹路清晰度。
例如，第一经纱为棉，其纱支范围为8S-38S；第二经纱为采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为50D-150D,弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～105D；第三经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为16S-60S；或者为采用长丝加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为50D-450D。
纬纱4可以是采用短纤维或长丝加工成的纱线。如果第一纬纱是采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，纱支的范围可以为6S～60S。如果纬纱4为采用长丝加工而成的纱线，则纱支范围可以为40D～600D。如果纬纱是有弹性的，纱线可以为短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱(如短纤维包氨纶丝)或采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱。如果纬纱为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，则其整体纱支的范围为6S～60S，其中弹力丝的范围为20D～300D。如果纬纱为长 丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，则其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的范围为20D～300D。纬纱可以是单包芯纱或双包芯纱，例如，棉纱包氨纶、棉纱包涤纶包氨纶、棉纱包化纤弹力丝等。第二纬纱的可选范围与第一纬纱相同。
采用本发明所提供的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，至少具有以下优点：
1、面料既具有梭织面料的外观风格，又具有经编面料的透气性好、手感好的特点。
2、布面蓬松、轻盈。新型的梭织仿经编的面料使用三个系统的经纱与纬纱交织层三层结构，在第二经纱的弹力带动下，第三经纱在织物反面形成的多个具有一定弧度的线圈形成较多储存空气的空间，与同等厚度的织物相比，重量更轻盈，手感更蓬松。
3、由于第一经纱为非弹性纱，若要染色则其吸色较深，可避免外表面染色时容易出现色差的问题；
4、双面性。正反两面的经纱颜色可双面相同也可双面不同，时尚表现力更强，让设计师能够拥有更大的发挥空间；同时也可以让消费者达到一衣多穿的效果。
5、布面手感好。本发明是特殊组织，织物背面的具有一定弧度的线圈为竖向起圈，当皮肤与面料发生上下摩擦时，具有一定弧度的线圈都是顺着皮肤的运动方向，可以大大减少面料对皮肤产生的不适感。
以下通过具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
实施例1
本实施例提供的新型梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构如图2所示，有颜色的格子表示经组织点，空白格表示纬组织点，织物A区部位是表层，其织结构为3/1右斜纹，B区部位为中层，其组织结构为1/1平纹，C区部位为里层其组织结构为8枚5飞纬面缎纹。
穿综法采用飞穿的形式，穿综法：1 5 7 2 6 8 3 5 9 4 6 10 1 5 11 2 6 12 3 5 13 4 6 14，穿筘：4入一筘。
第一经纱：采用纱支为8S纯棉纱线，纱线颜色为靛蓝；
第二经纱：采用纱支为95D涤纶包40D的纱线；
第三经纱：采用纱支为精梳50S纯棉的纱线，纱线颜色为白色；
纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉16S包40D氨纶的包芯纱；
经纱上机筘号为62筘(4入)；
纬纱织造上机密度为：46T；
第一经纱覆盖率为：62/28(8)＝78％；
第三经纱覆盖率为：62/28(50)＝31％；
本实施例织造完成的新型梭织仿经编的面料经过常规后整理工艺处理后，对其性能数据进行测试，测试结果如下表所示：
  回复率 伸长率 增长率 纰裂
经向 23.5％ 13.2％ 2.3％ 0.32
纬向 86.1％ 46.3％ 5.6％ 0.56
其中，该面料的的透气性可达48.65mm/s，透气性好；蓬松度可达322.26cm 3/g，蓬松度好。从表中的数据可以看出，该面料，弹性好，抗滑移能力好。该面料的外观风格，如斜纹纹路清晰，有立体感，经纬纱交织紧密，由于组织结构的设计，使得面料摸起来手感柔软舒 适，贴近皮肤时，有一种亲肤般的触感，舒适、柔软、自然。
实施例2
本实施例提供的新型梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构如图3所示，有颜色的格子表示经组织点，空白格表示纬组织点，织物A区部位为表层，其组织结构为2/1纬面左斜，B区部位为中层，其组织结构为平纹，C区部位为里层，其组织结构为5/1纬面右斜缎纹。
穿综法采用飞穿的形式，穿综法：1 9 11 2 10 12 3 9 13 4 10 14 5 9 15 6 10 16 7 9 17 8 10 18,穿筘：4入一筘。
第一经纱：采用纱支为16S纯棉竹节纱线，纱线颜色为靛蓝；
第二经纱：采用纱支为50D锦纶包70D的纱线；
第三经纱：采用纱支为精梳50S天丝棉的纱线，纱线颜色为白色；
纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉21S包70D氨纶的包芯纱；
经纱上机筘号为70筘(4入)；
纬纱织造上机密度为：52T；
第一经纱覆盖率为：70/28(16)＝62％；
第三经纱覆盖率为：70/28(50)＝35％；
本实施例织造完成的新型梭织仿经编的面料经过常规后整理工艺处理后，对其性能数据进行测试，测试结果如下表所示：
  回复率 伸长率 增长率 纰裂
经向 23.5％ 10.2％ 2.5％ 0.46
纬向 91.2％ 51.2％ 4.1％ 0.42
其中，该面料的的透气性可达36.58mm/s，透气性好；蓬松度可达302.36cm 3/g，蓬松度好。从表中的数据可以看出，该面料，弹性 好，抗滑移能力好。该面料的外观风格，如斜纹纹路清晰，有立体感，经纬纱交织紧密，由于组织结构的设计，使得面料摸起来手感柔软舒适，贴近皮肤时，有一种亲肤般的触感，舒适、柔软、自然。
实施例3
本实施例提供的新型梭织仿经编的面料的组织结构如图4所示，有颜色的格子表示经组织点，空白格表示纬组织点，织物A区部位为表层，其组织结构为8枚3飞经面缎纹，B区部位为中层，其组织结构为1/1平纹，C区部位为里层，其组织结构为5/1纬面右斜缎纹。
第一经纱：采用纱支为21S纯棉竹节纱线，纱线颜色为硫化黑；
第二经纱：采用纱支为50D锦纶包20D的纱线；
第三经纱：采用纱支为精梳60S天丝棉的纱线，纱线颜色为白色；
纬纱：采用纱支为纯棉26S包70D氨纶的包芯纱；
经纱上机筘号为82筘(4入)；
纬纱织造上机密度为：70T；
第一经纱覆盖率为：82/28(21)＝63％；
第三经纱覆盖率为：82/28(60)＝37％；
本实施例织造完成的新型梭织仿经编的面料经过常规后整理工艺处理后，对其性能数据进行测试，测试结果如下表所示：
  回复率 伸长率 增长率 纰裂
经向 36.5％ 15.8％ 3.2％ 0.56
纬向 88.8％ 49.8％ 3.5％ 0.58
其中，该面料的的透气性可达35.64mm/s，透气性好；蓬松度可达289.64cm 3/g，蓬松度好。从表中的数据可以看出，该面料，弹性好，抗滑移能力好。该面料的外观风格，如斜纹纹路清晰，有立体感， 经纬纱交织紧密，由于组织结构的设计，使得面料摸起来手感柔软舒适，贴近皮肤时，有一种亲肤般的触感，舒适、柔软、自然。
应当理解的是，本发明的应用不限于上述的举例，对本领域普通技术人员来说，可以根据上述说明加以改进或变换，所有这些改进和变换都应属于本发明的保护范围。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，包括第一经纱、第二经纱、第三经纱和纬纱；第一经纱与纬纱交织成织物的表层，第二经纱与纬纱交织成织物的中层，第三经纱与纬纱交织成织物的里层；
    第三经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置至少3个纬组织点，每组经组织点的数量至少为1个；
    第一经纱为非弹性纱，第三经纱为弹性纱或非弹性纱，第二经纱的弹性性能比第一经纱和第三经纱大。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述第三经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置4～16个纬组织点。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，第一经纱与第三经纱的排列比为1:5～4:1，第一经纱与第二经纱的排列比为1:4～3:1。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述表层和中层中，经纱和纬纱交织的经组织点为1～7个。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述表层和中层为1/1平纹组织或者其基础组织循环数为3～8。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述表层和中层为平纹组织、斜纹组织或缎纹组织。
  7. 根据权利要求2所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述第三经纱上相邻两组经组织点之间设置7～13个纬组织点。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述第一经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线；所述第二经纱为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱、本身带有弹性的长丝、采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱中的一种；第三经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线、采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的包芯纱、采用短纤维包覆非弹性长丝加工成的包芯纱中的一种；
    当第一经纱或第三经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为6S～60S；
    当第三经纱为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的包芯纱，其纱支范围为6S-60S，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D-300D；
    当第三经纱为采用短纤维包覆非弹性长丝加工成的包芯纱，其纱支范围为6S-60S；
    当第二经纱为采用短纤维包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为6S～60S，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～300D；
    当第二经纱为本身带有弹性的长丝，其纱支范围为20D‐450D；
    当第二经纱为采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为40D～600D，弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～300D。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述第三经纱与第一经纱的纱线的英制支数相同或者第三经纱的纱线的英制支数比第一经纱大。
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的新型的梭织仿经编的面料，其特征在于，所述第一经纱为棉，其纱支范围为8S-38S；
    所述第二经纱为采用长丝包覆弹力丝加工成的弹性包芯纱，其整体纱支范围为50D-150D,弹力丝的纱支范围为20D～105D；
    所述第三经纱为采用短纤维加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为16S-60S；或者为采用长丝加工而成的纱线，其纱支范围为50D-450D。
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