WO2014064661A2 - Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu à base de soie imitant un tissu en cachemire - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu à base de soie imitant un tissu en cachemire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014064661A2
WO2014064661A2 PCT/IB2013/059722 IB2013059722W WO2014064661A2 WO 2014064661 A2 WO2014064661 A2 WO 2014064661A2 IB 2013059722 W IB2013059722 W IB 2013059722W WO 2014064661 A2 WO2014064661 A2 WO 2014064661A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
silk
operations
napping
fibres
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2013/059722
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2014064661A8 (fr
WO2014064661A3 (fr
Inventor
Augusto FERRARIS
Original Assignee
Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli S.P.A.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from IT000944A external-priority patent/ITTO20120944A1/it
Priority claimed from IT000991A external-priority patent/ITTO20120991A1/it
Priority claimed from IT000990A external-priority patent/ITTO20120990A1/it
Application filed by Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli S.P.A. filed Critical Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli S.P.A.
Publication of WO2014064661A2 publication Critical patent/WO2014064661A2/fr
Publication of WO2014064661A3 publication Critical patent/WO2014064661A3/fr
Publication of WO2014064661A8 publication Critical patent/WO2014064661A8/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric imitating a cashmere fabric, and therefore having a soft and velvety feel, giving a feeling of warmth and softness.
  • the invention relates to a method of the type defined in the precharacterizing clause of Claim 1.
  • a method of this type for the manufacture of towels and articles of clothing, in particular underclothing is described in WO 2009/048293.
  • This method provides for the manufacture of a plain woven fabric with 100% silk warps comprising between 100 and 110 continuous twisted filaments, these warp yarns being woven with a weft comprising 40 to 42 continuous filaments.
  • the plain woven fabric made in this way then undergoes scouring, dyeing and drying. Subsequently loop naps are formed on the surface of said fabric using a napping machine. These loops naps are then made equal through a shearing machine.
  • Document KR-B-101014553 describes the manufacture of silk fabric uppers for footwear.
  • a fabric is made using twisted warp and weft yarns - two threads are twisted together to form a single yarn.
  • One of the two twisted threads contains nanoparticles of silver having an anti-microbial function, or is a thread of the stretch type.
  • the side of the fabric corresponding to the inside of the uppers undergoes a napping and then a shearing process.
  • a method for manufacturing a fabric imitating cashmere by treating a wool using an enzymolytic technique is known from document CN 1 446 974 A.
  • Document CN 1 789 547 A instead describes a method for the preparation of yarns imitating cashmere yams, using cotton yarns.
  • One object of this invention is to provide an innovative method for manufacturing fabrics offering an excellent imitation of cashmere fabric, which can be used to manufacture articles of clothing such as coats, jackets and the like.
  • the silk fibre rovings used in the method according to the invention are formed of relatively short discontinuous silk fibres, these rovings having a mean staple length of preferably between 40 mm and approximately 65 mm. Conveniently these rovings comprise at least 50% by weight of mulberry silk fibre.
  • the combinations of fibres used including the abovementioned discontinuous silk fibre rovings, are subjected to further combing and opening up of the fibres before they are spun in a carded system in order to improve the degree to which the fibres are parallel.
  • the yarn may be twisted, as two or more plies.
  • the plain woven fabric manufactured using yarns obtained from the above combinations of fibres are subjected to alternating napping and shearing operations.
  • the alternating napping and shearing makes it possible to achieve a high pile density, as a result of which cashmere fabric can be imitated very well. It is also appropriate that an operation of mechanically spreading the fabric in the direction of its staple length, to prevent felting of the tissue, should be performed between two successive napping operations, which are not necessarily consecutive. After spreading the right side of the fabric may be lightly napped and lightly sheared.
  • the plain woven fabric may be conveniently steeped in a liquid chemical softening agent, and then dried.
  • the fabric After drying the fabric may be equalized to bring it to the desired staple length, and intense napping followed by light shearing may be performed on the right side of the fabric to impart the desired appearance and consistency (softness, lustre, pile density) to the fabric.
  • the plain woven fabric is subjected to washing and shearing operations.
  • the fabric may also be subjected to immersed finishing treatment, in particular using an enzymolytic agent, for example in a jigger machine, and then dried.
  • an enzymolytic agent for example in a jigger machine
  • the fabric may be subjected to final finishing using a decatizing and steaming machine.
  • Figure 1 is an illustration of a method according to this invention in the form of a flow diagram
  • Figure 2 is a fibre diagram of silk roving which may conveniently be used for implementing the method according to the invention.
  • Figure 3 is a flow diagram similar to that in Figure 1 and illustrates another manner of implementing the invention.
  • a method according to the invention makes it possible to manufacture a fabric largely comprising or wholly comprising silk, providing an excellent imitation of fabric made of cashmere.
  • Such a process provides for the use of combinations of fibres containing at least 50% by weight of silk roving, preferably mulberry silk, as indicated in block 1 in the flow diagrams in Figures 1 and 3.
  • these silk rovings conveniently have an average staple length of between approximately 40 mm and approximately 65 mm.
  • the yarn prepared may contain fibres of other natural, synthetic or artificial types, but in quantities of less than or at most 50% by weight.
  • the silk fibres in the aforementioned rovings conveniently have a low silicone and sericin content, that is a silicone content of less than 0.3% by weight and a sericin content of less than 1 % by weight.
  • Figure 2 indicatively shows a fibre diagram revealing an excellent fibre length distribution in such a silk roving, in which the percentage of fibres present (% 1st) is shown as the ordinate on the right-hand side of the histogram and their length in mm is shown as the abscissa.
  • the cumulative percentage (% CUM) in increasing order from the shortest fibre to the longest is expressed as the ordinate on the left-hand side of the histogram.
  • the fibres may be opened up by passing through a mechanical carding machine, in order to optimize the parallel lie of the fibres.
  • Spinning (block 4 in Figure 1) takes place in a carded cycle, conveniently on a wool spinning machine.
  • the yarn produced should absolutely not undergo final singeing, because this will be extremely harmful to the feel of the fabric subsequently manufactured.
  • the yarn may be twisted, with two or more plies.
  • a plain woven fabric is thus produced using a conventional loom, with a warp and weft made of yarns obtained in the manner described above (block 5 in Figures 1 and 3).
  • the plain woven fabric is subjected to alternating napping and shearing (shaving) operations (block 6 in Figure 1).
  • At least one operation of spreading the fabric in the direction of its staple length, preferably followed by an equalizing operation, is performed between two successive napping operations, which are not necessarily consecutive. This makes it possible to avoid the risk of felting in the fabric produced.
  • the right side of the fabric only may then be napped and lightly sheared after spreading.
  • the operations of napping the fabric are conveniently carried out by napping machines for cotton fabrics, to raise up a relatively stiff and hard fibre such as silk in a uniform way, and obtain a high density pile.
  • Napping is therefore carried out using napping machines for cotton fabrics, preferably comprising one or more napping cylinders provided with polished round clothing, for example “1 :1 " napping machines with 24/28 clothing.
  • the fabric is then immersed in a liquid softening agent, and then dried (blocks 7 and 8 in Figure 1). This makes it possible to reduce the risk that the final fabric will have a "dry feel".
  • the fabric finally undergoes equalizing finishing through a steaming and continuous brushing machine (block 9).
  • the brushing is carried out using horsehair brushes to obtain optimum orientation of the fabric's pile.
  • Intense napping followed by light shearing may then again be performed on the right side of the fabric to impart the desired appearance and consistency.
  • the fabric prepared in this way provides an excellent imitation of cashmere fabric, with an extremely smooth, soft and warm feel.
  • the fabric may be wound onto cardboard tubes and the pieces may be packed in boxes, in which they may be suspended.
  • the plain woven fabric is subjected to washing and shearing (shaving) operations (blocks 16 and 19 in Figure 3).
  • at least one operation of swelling/softening the fabric may be performed between these operations, for example using an AIRO 24 model machine for softening broadloom fabric and continuous drying produced by the Biancalani S.r.l. company of Prato, Italy (block 17 in Figure 3). This makes it possible to avoid the risk that the fabric manufactured will provide a feeling of stiffness.
  • the operations of washing the fabric are relatively "light” and are conveniently carried out using a continuous washing unit for wool fabrics to minimize the risk of forming permanent creases, which are rather frequent when a relatively rigid and hard fibre like silk is washed.
  • the fabric may undergo an immersed finishing treatment in order to further improve its feel, and subsequently drying, between the operations of softening and drying (block 17) and the shearing operation (block 19).
  • the finishing treatment may comprise passing the fabric through a bath containing a specific enzymolytic agent for silk, for example proteases, for example in a jigger machine. This makes it possible to improve the soft feel of the fabric.
  • a specific enzymolytic agent for silk for example proteases
  • the fabric finally undergoes finishing through light decatizing operations, in order to prevent it from having the typical lustrous appearance of silk and not that of cashmere, and steamed (block 20 in Figure 3).
  • the fabric manufactured in this way offers an excellent imitation of cashmere fabric, with an extremely smooth, soft and warm feel.
  • the fabric can be wound onto cardboard tubes and the pieces may be packed in a box in which they may be suspended.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé, qui comprend les opérations de fabrication d'un fil à base de soie au moyen d'un cycle de filature cardé (4) utilisant des combinaisons de fibres contenant au moins 50 % en poids de mèches de soie; de fabrication d'un tissu tissé uni (5) avec des fils de chaîne et de trame fabriqués à l'aide du fil, et de soumission du tissu tissé uni à des opérations de finition (6).
PCT/IB2013/059722 2012-10-26 2013-10-28 Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu à base de soie imitant un tissu en cachemire WO2014064661A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITTO2012A000944 2012-10-26
IT000944A ITTO20120944A1 (it) 2012-10-26 2012-10-26 Procedimento per realizzare un tessuto di seta imitante un tessuto di cashmere
ITTO2012A000991 2012-11-15
IT000991A ITTO20120991A1 (it) 2012-11-15 2012-11-15 Procedimento per realizzare un tessuto di seta imitante un tessuto di cashmere
ITTO2012A000990 2012-11-15
IT000990A ITTO20120990A1 (it) 2012-11-15 2012-11-15 Procedimento per realizzare un tessuto di seta imitante un tessuto di cashmere

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2014064661A2 true WO2014064661A2 (fr) 2014-05-01
WO2014064661A3 WO2014064661A3 (fr) 2014-06-12
WO2014064661A8 WO2014064661A8 (fr) 2014-12-11

Family

ID=49955420

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IB2013/059722 WO2014064661A2 (fr) 2012-10-26 2013-10-28 Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu à base de soie imitant un tissu en cachemire

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2014064661A2 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015189821A1 (fr) 2014-06-12 2015-12-17 Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna E Figli S.P.A. Procédé de fabrication d'articles en soie avec une apparence mate
CN110983769A (zh) * 2019-12-10 2020-04-10 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种仿羊绒整理剂和仿羊绒面料及其制备方法
US20220010487A1 (en) * 2020-06-22 2022-01-13 Trident Limited Wet Processing Technique for Producing Terry Fabrics

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1446974A (zh) 2003-04-24 2003-10-08 蔡志国 利用酶解技术制取仿羊绒的方法
CN1789547A (zh) 2005-12-27 2006-06-21 宁波百隆纺织有限公司 仿羊绒手感棉纱的制备方法
WO2009048293A1 (fr) 2007-10-11 2009-04-16 Ecogreenpia Co., Ltd. Procédé de fabrication de tissus de soie et tissus de soie obtenus par celui-ci
KR101014553B1 (ko) 2010-04-06 2011-02-15 경남과학기술대학교 산학협력단 더블커버링사를 이용하는 실크갑피원단

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JPS62110949A (ja) * 1985-11-09 1987-05-22 柴田　公造 毛並みを有する絹布地
CN1062181A (zh) * 1991-09-23 1992-06-24 如皋市纺织厂 生产绢棉混纺纱的方法
CN1034288C (zh) * 1993-11-17 1997-03-19 绍兴市绒毯厂 一种真丝绒毯的生产工艺
CN1139681C (zh) * 1999-10-22 2004-02-25 秦志强 一种蚕丝针织编织纱线及其制造方法
CN1814876A (zh) * 2006-03-06 2006-08-09 上海昌明实业有限公司 一种混纺纱、由该混纺纱制得的梭织物及其制造方法
KR101031718B1 (ko) * 2008-06-30 2011-05-04 한국실크연구원 실크와 모시 혼방사 및 그 제조방법
CN102061550B (zh) * 2011-01-06 2012-07-04 江苏阳光股份有限公司 高支丝羊绒顺毛大衣呢及其制备方法

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1446974A (zh) 2003-04-24 2003-10-08 蔡志国 利用酶解技术制取仿羊绒的方法
CN1789547A (zh) 2005-12-27 2006-06-21 宁波百隆纺织有限公司 仿羊绒手感棉纱的制备方法
WO2009048293A1 (fr) 2007-10-11 2009-04-16 Ecogreenpia Co., Ltd. Procédé de fabrication de tissus de soie et tissus de soie obtenus par celui-ci
KR101014553B1 (ko) 2010-04-06 2011-02-15 경남과학기술대학교 산학협력단 더블커버링사를 이용하는 실크갑피원단

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2015189821A1 (fr) 2014-06-12 2015-12-17 Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna E Figli S.P.A. Procédé de fabrication d'articles en soie avec une apparence mate
CN110983769A (zh) * 2019-12-10 2020-04-10 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种仿羊绒整理剂和仿羊绒面料及其制备方法
CN110983769B (zh) * 2019-12-10 2022-06-28 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 一种仿羊绒整理剂和仿羊绒面料及其制备方法
US20220010487A1 (en) * 2020-06-22 2022-01-13 Trident Limited Wet Processing Technique for Producing Terry Fabrics
US11807984B2 (en) 2020-06-22 2023-11-07 Trident Limited Wet processing technique for producing terry fabrics

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2014064661A8 (fr) 2014-12-11
WO2014064661A3 (fr) 2014-06-12

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