CN110295444A - 一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN110295444A
CN110295444A CN201910564923.2A CN201910564923A CN110295444A CN 110295444 A CN110295444 A CN 110295444A CN 201910564923 A CN201910564923 A CN 201910564923A CN 110295444 A CN110295444 A CN 110295444A
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李刚
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Yiwu Rundou Garment Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种具有抗静电、吸湿排汗、质地柔软、保形性良好等多种功能的色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺。本发明交织面料,由聚乳酸(PLA)/莫代尔(Modal)纤维混纺经纱和维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纬纱交织而成,多种纤维之间在性能上形成优势互补,其生产工艺为:筒纱染色→络筒→整经→经纱浆纱→穿综→织造→退浆→烧毛→整理,实现了“从化学角度看问题,用物理方法解决问题”的生态加工要求。本发明制出的交织面料具有优良抗静电性、吸湿排汗、质地柔软、保形性、尺寸稳定性等特征。

Description

一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺
技术领域
本发明属于混纺面料生产技术领域,具体涉及一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺。
背景技术
化学纤维面料在相互摩擦过程中会造成静电积累现象,静电电击虽然只发生在瞬间,但对人体健康其实是有负面影响的,而且静电衣物更容易吸附携带病毒、细菌、灰尘和有害物质。医学研究证实,皮肤静电干扰可以改变人体体表的正常电位差,影响心肌正常的电生理过程,使病人病情加重,持久的静电还会使血液的碱性升高,导致皮肤瘙痒、色素沉着,影响人的机体生理平衡,干扰人的情绪等。
随着生活水平的提高,人们对服装的品质要求也日益增加,除了要求保形性好、柔软舒适外,对面料的抗静电性能、吸湿排汗性能、亲肤性以及各种功能性要求也越来越多。利用多种纤维混纺纱织造面料产品,可以通过多种纤维之间性能上的优势互补,能够获得迎合市场需求的多功能交织面料。
聚乳酸纤维是一种新型的生态环保纤维,吸湿性差,但导湿性能好,强度高,质地轻薄柔软,具有优良的弹性和保形性,生物相容性好,具有抑菌性和阻燃性;莫代尔纤维是一种再生纤维素纤维,因其纤维间摩擦系数小,表面光滑,纤维间抱合力小,表面出优良的抗静电、抗起球特性,同时,表现出优良的吸湿透气性,吸湿能力比棉纤维高出50%,且吸湿速度极快,其强度和韧性高,保形性和尺寸稳定性好,手感柔软,染色性能优良;维纶纤维的学名是聚乙烯醇缩醛纤维,是现有合成纤维中吸湿性最大的种类,吸湿率为4.5%~5%,手感柔软,强度高,韧性好,耐磨性和阻燃性良好;铜氨纤维具有会透气、吸湿清爽、抗静电、悬垂性佳四大功能,其单纤比粘胶纤维更细,产品性能极佳,性能近似于丝绸,加之其较好的抗静电的功能,即使在干燥的地区穿着,仍然具有良好的触感,避免产生闷热的不舒适感。鉴于以上所述,本发明利用这四种纤维混纺纱织造出抗静电、吸湿排汗、质地轻薄柔软面料产品。
发明内容
针对现有技术的不足之处,本发明的目的在于提供一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺。
本发明的技术方案概述如下:
一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺,包括以下步骤:
S1:纱线原料的选择
经纱选用11.8tex聚乳酸/莫代尔纤维混纺纱线,其中,聚乳酸纤维混纺比例为55~60%,莫代尔纤维混纺比例为40~45%;
纬纱选用11.8tex维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱线,其中,维纶纤维混纺比例为50~55%,铜氨纤维混纺比例为45~50%;
S2:产品设计
a.织物组织设计
边组织选用平纹组织,地组织选用平纹地小花纹组织;织物组织图见图1;
b.上机工艺设计
穿综:18页综,布边1-2页顺穿,布身3-18页顺穿;
穿筘:布边4入,布身3入;上机纹板图如图2所示;
c.织物规格设计
成品幅宽146cm,总经根数8625根,其中边纱32×2根;
成品经密591根/10cm,纬密378根/10cm,坯布纬密370根/10cm,上机纬密364根/10cm,选用87号筘,上机筘幅167.9cm;
S3:交织面料生产工艺设计
具体生产工艺流程如下:
a.筒纱染色:坯纱→松筒→精练→染色→柔软→脱水→烘干→紧筒;
精练:聚乳酸(PLA)/莫代尔(Modal)纤维混纺纱和维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱都是化学纤维,无需煮练、漂白,只需精练去除纺纱的油剂,以确保染色的均匀,该过程具体操作:室温下将两种混纺纱加入2g/L精炼剂、1g/L渗透剂的混合液中,然后逐步升温至80℃,保温20分钟,降温,热水洗,冷水洗;
染色:维纶纤维是聚乙烯醇缩醛纤维,聚乳酸纤维具有同聚酯纤维相似的物理特性,结构与涤纶相似,这两个组分可以用分散染料染色;莫代尔纤维和铜氨纤维都是再生纤维素纤维,可以用活性染料染色,因此,两种混纺纱采用分散/活性两浴法染色,先分散染料染色,再活性染料染色,染色工艺略有不同;
聚乳酸(PLA)/莫代尔(Modal)纤维混纺纱染色,由于聚乳酸纤维的耐热性能差,所以染色的最高温度设定为110℃;维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱染色,由于维纶纤维耐湿热性能差,在110℃的热水中即开始软化,为防止温度提高破坏其分子结构使得吸湿性能下降,所以染色的最高温度设定为100℃;
b.络筒:选用GA015系列槽筒式络筒机;该型号络筒机有6种速度规格,分别是:398m/min、500m/min、608m/min、710、742m/min,本产品所选纱线较细,络筒速度不宜过高,选用最低的398m/min,张力垫圈质量7.2~7.6g;
c.整经:选用CGGA114B-SM分批整经机,筒子架容量640只,整经速度670m/min,由于整经速度较高,整经时不再设置附加张力;为保证整经的质量,均采用集体换筒;总经根数8625根,配轴为:599×9轴+539×6轴;
d.浆纱:使用ASG365型两单元浆纱机,浆料选用变性淀粉,浆液含固率控制在7.3%~7.7%,浆槽温度控制在80℃~85℃,黏度为12s~13s;该产品所用经纱11.8tex,较细,为了减小经纱断裂,保障织造的顺利进行,上浆过程中需要能较好地贴服纱线表面的毛羽,上浆率控制在12~13%,伸长率0.7%;
e.织造:选用GA747型剑杆织机生产,织机车速185r/min,采用积极引纬方式,开口时间290°~295°,后梁高度70mm,经停架高度380mm,送纬剑进剑时间设置为75°,接纬剑退剑时间290°~295°;
f.退浆:由于织布时使用的是淀粉浆,采用酶退浆方法,在平幅氧漂机中进行,先浸轧70℃热水,然后60℃浸轧酶液,95℃汽蒸30分钟,热水洗,冷水洗;
酶退浆处方:耐高温淀粉酶5g/L,食盐2g/L,渗透剂2g/L,pH值6.0~6.5;
g.烧毛:退浆后烧毛可以提高烧毛效率,改善起毛起球性能;由于聚乳酸纤维的耐干热性能不高,所以烧毛车速要快,温度不宜太高;温度800~1000℃,车速100~140m/min,火口一正一反;
h.整理:做亲水性整理,还可结合需求同时进行抗紫外、抗菌整理。
优选的是,所述分散染料染色具体过程:染色时,40℃入染,依次加入冰醋酸、匀染剂、分散染料,运转10分钟后,控制升温速率,逐步升到100℃或110℃,并保温20~40分钟,然后降温、水洗。
优选的是,所述活性染料染色具体过程:室温下入染,先加入染料,运转10分钟后逐步升温至60℃,再运转10分钟,先加入1/4的元明粉,运转10分钟后再加入1/4的元明粉,继续运转10分钟后加入剩余的元明粉,并持续运转20分钟后,先加1/6的纯碱,运转10分钟后,再加入1/3的纯碱,继续运转10分钟后加入剩余的纯碱,并持续运转30~60分钟后降温、水洗、皂洗、水洗。
附图说明
图1为本发明混纺面料织物组织图;
图2为本发明上机纹板图。
本发明的有益效果:
本发明的多功能混纺面料由聚乳酸/莫代尔纤维混纺经纱和维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纬纱交织而成,相比于聚乳酸/莫代尔/维纶/铜氨四种纤维混纺纱的加工方式,采用两两混纺,有效降低纺纱难度,也降低染色加工难度;同时,利用莫代尔纤维和铜氨纤维再生纤维素纤维赋予化纤交织面料优良的抗静电性,其中,莫代尔纤维摩擦系数小,表面光滑,纤维间抱合力小,表面出优良的抗静电、抗起球特性,铜氨纤维是纤维素分子间溶胀分散铜氨络合物,使纤维素纤维具有一定的导电性,进而摩擦产生的静电得以及时疏散;通过四种纤维之间性能互补,生产出具有的优良抗静电性、吸湿排汗、质地柔软、保形性、尺寸稳定性特征的面料产品,实现了“从化学角度看问题,用物理方法解决问题”的生态加工要求。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明做进一步的详细说明,以令本领域技术人员参照说明书文字能够据以实施。
一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺,包括以下步骤:
S1:纱线原料的选择
经纱选用11.8tex聚乳酸/莫代尔纤维混纺纱线,其中,聚乳酸纤维混纺比例为55%,莫代尔纤维混纺比例为45%;
纬纱选用11.8tex维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱线,其中,维纶纤维混纺比例为50%,铜氨纤维混纺比例为50%;
S2:产品设计
a.织物组织设计
边组织选用平纹组织,地组织选用平纹地小花纹组织;织物组织图见图1;
b.上机工艺设计
穿综:18页综,布边1-2页顺穿,布身3-18页顺穿;
穿筘:布边4入,布身3入;上机纹板图如图2所示;
c.织物规格设计
成品幅宽146cm,总经根数8625根,其中边纱32×2根;
成品经密591根/10cm,纬密378根/10cm,坯布纬密370根/10cm,上机纬密364根/10cm,选用87号筘,上机筘幅167.9cm;
S3:交织面料生产工艺设计
具体生产工艺流程如下:
a.筒纱染色:坯纱→松筒→精练→染色→柔软→脱水→烘干→紧筒;
精练:聚乳酸(PLA)/莫代尔(Modal)纤维混纺纱和维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱都是化学纤维,无需煮练、漂白,只需精练去除纺纱的油剂,以确保染色的均匀,该过程具体操作:室温下将两种混纺纱加入2g/L精炼剂、1g/L渗透剂的混合液中,然后逐步升温至80℃,保温20分钟,降温,热水洗,冷水洗;
染色:维纶纤维是聚乙烯醇缩醛纤维,聚乳酸纤维具有同聚酯纤维相似的物理特性,结构与涤纶相似,这两个组分可以用分散染料染色;莫代尔纤维和铜氨纤维都是再生纤维素纤维,可以用活性染料染色,因此,两种混纺纱采用分散/活性两浴法染色,先分散染料染色,再活性染料染色,染色工艺略有不同;
聚乳酸(PLA)/莫代尔(Modal)纤维混纺纱染色,由于聚乳酸纤维的耐热性能差,染色的最高温度设定为110℃;维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱染色,由于维纶纤维耐湿热性能差,在110℃的热水中即开始软化,为防止温度提高破坏其分子结构使得吸湿性能下降,所以染色的最高温度设定为100℃;染色过程具体操作:先分散染料染色,40℃入染,依次加入冰醋酸、匀染剂、分散染料,运转10分钟后,控制升温速率,逐步升到100℃或110℃,并保温30分钟,然后降温、水洗;再活性染料染色,室温下入染,先加入染料,运转10分钟后逐步升温至60℃,再运转10分钟,先加入1/4的元明粉,运转10分钟后再加入1/4的元明粉,继续运转10分钟后加入剩余的元明粉,并持续运转20分钟后,先加1/6的纯碱,运转10分钟后,再加入1/3的纯碱,继续运转10分钟后加入剩余的纯碱,并持续运转45分钟后降温、水洗、皂洗、水洗;
b.络筒:选用GA015系列槽筒式络筒机;该型号络筒机有6种速度规格,分别是:398m/min、500m/min、608m/min、710、742m/min,本产品所选纱线较细,络筒速度不宜过高,选用最低的398m/min,张力垫圈质量7.5g;
c.整经:选用CGGA114B-SM分批整经机,筒子架容量640只,整经速度670m/min,由于整经速度较高,整经时不再设置附加张力;为保证整经的质量,均采用集体换筒;总经根数8625根,配轴为:599×9轴+539×6轴;
d.浆纱:使用ASG365型两单元浆纱机,浆料选用变性淀粉,浆液含固率控制在7.5%,浆槽温度控制在80℃,黏度为12s;该产品所用经纱11.8tex,较细,为了减小经纱断裂,保障织造的顺利进行,上浆过程中需要能较好地贴服纱线表面的毛羽,上浆率控制在12.5%,伸长率0.7%;
e.织造:选用GA747型剑杆织机生产,织机车速185r/min,采用积极引纬方式,开口时间295°,后梁高度70mm,经停架高度380mm,送纬剑进剑时间设置为75°,接纬剑退剑时间295°;
f.退浆:由于织布时使用的是淀粉浆,采用酶退浆方法,在平幅氧漂机中进行,先浸轧70℃热水,然后60℃浸轧酶液,95℃汽蒸30分钟,热水洗,冷水洗;
酶退浆处方:耐高温淀粉酶5g/L,食盐2g/L,渗透剂2g/L,pH值6.0~6.5;
g.烧毛:退浆后烧毛可以提高烧毛效率,改善起毛起球性能;由于聚乳酸纤维的耐干热性能不高,所以烧毛车速要快,温度不宜太高;温度800℃,车速120m/min,火口一正一反;
h.整理:做亲水性整理和抗菌整理。
本实施例采用两两混纺方式制出的多功能交织面料径向撕破强力达27N,维向撕破强力达36N,纺纱难度和染色加工难度较低,并利用莫代尔纤维和铜氨纤维再生纤维素纤维赋予化纤交织面料优良的抗静电性,其中,莫代尔纤维摩擦系数小,表面光滑,纤维间抱合力小,表面出优良的抗静电、抗起球特性,铜氨纤维是纤维素分子间溶胀分散铜氨络合物,使纤维素纤维具有一定的导电性,进而摩擦产生的静电得以及时疏散,同时,四种纤维之间形成优势互补,得到具有的优良抗静电性、吸湿排汗、抗菌、质地柔软亲肤、保形性、尺寸稳定性特征的面料产品,
尽管本发明的实施方案已公开如上,但其并不仅仅限于说明书和实施方式中所列运用,它完全可以被适用于各种适合本发明的领域,对于熟悉本领域的人员而言,可容易地实现另外的修改,因此在不背离权利要求及等同范围所限定的一般概念下,本发明并不限于特定的细节。

Claims (3)

1.一种抗静电、吸湿排汗色织交织面料的产品设计与生产工艺,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
S1:纱线原料的选择
经纱选用11.8tex聚乳酸/莫代尔纤维混纺纱线,其中,聚乳酸纤维混纺比例为55~60%,莫代尔纤维混纺比例为40~45%;
纬纱选用11.8tex维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱线,其中,维纶纤维混纺比例为50~55%,铜氨纤维混纺比例为45~50%;
S2:产品设计
a.织物组织设计
边组织选用平纹组织,地组织选用平纹地小花纹组织;
b.上机工艺设计
穿综:18页综,布边1-2页顺穿,布身3-18页顺穿;
穿筘:布边4入,布身3入;
c.织物规格设计
成品幅宽146cm,总经根数8625根,其中边纱32×2根;
成品经密591根/10cm,纬密378根/10cm,坯布纬密370根/10cm,上机纬密364根/10cm,选用87号筘,上机筘幅167.9cm;
S3:交织面料生产工艺设计
具体生产工艺流程如下:
a.筒纱染色:坯纱→松筒→精练→染色→柔软→脱水→烘干→紧筒;
其中,精练过程具体操作:室温下将两种混纺纱加入2g/L精炼剂、1g/L渗透剂的混合液中,然后逐步升温至80℃,保温20分钟,降温,热水洗,冷水洗;
染色:采用分散/活性两浴法染色,先分散染料染色,再活性染料染色;其中,聚乳酸/莫代尔纤维混纺纱染色的最高温度设定为110℃,维纶/铜氨纤维混纺纱染色的最高温度设定为100℃;
b.络筒:络筒速度为398m/min,张力垫圈质量7.2~7.6g;
c.整经:筒子架容量640只,整经速度670m/min,总经根数8625根,配轴为:599×9轴+539×6轴;
d.浆纱:浆料选用变性淀粉,浆液含固率控制在7.3%~7.7%,浆槽温度控制在80℃~85℃,黏度为12s~13s,上浆率12~13%,伸长率0.7%;
e.织造:织机车速185r/min,采用积极引纬方式,开口时间290°~295°,后梁高度70mm,经停架高度380mm,送纬剑进剑时间设置为75°,接纬剑退剑时间290°~295°;
f.退浆:采用酶退浆方法,在平幅氧漂机中进行,先浸轧70℃热水,然后60℃浸轧酶液,95℃汽蒸30分钟,热水洗,冷水洗;
酶退浆处方:耐高温淀粉酶5g/L,食盐2g/L,渗透剂2g/L,pH值6.0~6.5;
g.烧毛:温度800~1000℃,车速100~140m/min,火口一正一反。
2.根据权利要求1所述一种多功能色织混纺面料的产品设计与生产工艺,其特征在于,所述分散染料染色具体过程:染色时,40℃入染,依次加入冰醋酸、匀染剂、分散染料,运转10分钟后,控制升温速率,逐步升到100℃或110℃,并保温20~40分钟,然后降温、水洗。
3.根据权利要求1所述一种多功能色织混纺面料的产品设计与生产工艺,其特征在于,所述活性染料染色具体过程:室温下入染,先加入染料,运转10分钟后逐步升温至60℃,再运转10分钟,先加入1/4的元明粉,运转10分钟后再加入1/4的元明粉,继续运转10分钟后加入剩余的元明粉,并持续运转20分钟后,先加1/6的纯碱,运转10分钟后,再加入1/3的纯碱,继续运转10分钟后加入剩余的纯碱,并持续运转30~60分钟后降温、水洗、皂洗、水洗。
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