WO2014050289A1 - フットウェア、およびフットウェアの編成方法 - Google Patents
フットウェア、およびフットウェアの編成方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2014050289A1 WO2014050289A1 PCT/JP2013/070284 JP2013070284W WO2014050289A1 WO 2014050289 A1 WO2014050289 A1 WO 2014050289A1 JP 2013070284 W JP2013070284 W JP 2013070284W WO 2014050289 A1 WO2014050289 A1 WO 2014050289A1
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- Prior art keywords
- knitting
- heel
- footwear
- sole
- knitted
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
- A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
- A43B1/04—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/26—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/03—Shape features
- D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/0332—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with gussets folding into three dimensional shape, e.g. seat covers
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
Definitions
- the present invention relates to footwear and a footwear knitting method.
- Knitting footwear such as shoes and socks using a flat knitting machine.
- a sole cover portion that covers the sole of the wearer, an instep cover portion that covers a portion on the back side of the wearer, and the vicinity of the wearer's heel continuously from the instep cover portion
- the body part covering the upper part is integrally knitted without sewing.
- the knitting width is widened at a portion corresponding to the heel of the sock (for example, Patent Documents). 1).
- footwear made up of conventional knitting structures is three-dimensional along the shape of the foot.
- the conventional footwear has a bulge in the part corresponding to the heel, it is only flat on the whole. Therefore, when such footwear is worn, the knitted fabric will fit the foot due to the elasticity of the knitted fabric, but the stitches may be stretched locally or jerked at the part corresponding to the heel in the footwear. is there. This may impair the appearance when the footwear is worn, or may cause the wearer some kind of stress. In addition, when footwear knitted with thermoplastic yarn or the like having poor stretchability is worn, there is a risk that the knitted fabric may become loose at the portion corresponding to the heel of the footwear.
- the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide footwear having a three-dimensional shape that fits a wearer's foot without depending on the stretchability of the knitted fabric, and a knitting method thereof. It is to provide.
- the footwear of this invention is footwear provided with the instep cover part which covers the part of a wearer's back side, and the sole cover part which covers a wearer's sole.
- this footwear it is knitted from the position of the heel side end of the footwear and finished knitting at a position other than the heel side end, or knitted from a position other than the heel side end and positioned at the heel side end.
- the instep cover portion and the sole cover portion are knitted integrally with the knitting structure without sewing.
- the part corresponding to the region of the predetermined range from the rear end of the wearer's heel is the heel part, and the other part is the sole body part of the sole cover part provided in the footwear.
- a set-up portion or a knitting end portion formed at the heel side end portion extends in the height direction of the footwear and is connected to the heel portion.
- the heel portion is formed by knitting in which the stitch rows are stacked in a plurality of stages in the wale direction, and the number of stitches in the stitch width direction of the stitch rows is gradually changed when the number of stitch rows is stacked.
- the heel portion is formed in a tongue-like shape whose width gradually decreases toward the heel side of the footwear.
- the predetermined range from the rear end of the kite is about half the length from the rear end to the arch, specifically 2 to 6 cm from the rear end, preferably 3 from the rear end. It is a range up to 5 cm.
- the set-up portion or the knitting end portion formed at the heel side end portion of the footwear extends from the upper end to the sole cover portion of the instep cover portion, and extends to the sole cover portion.
- the heel portion may include a form (hereinafter referred to as a first form) formed by a plurality of fan-shaped pieces arranged in a circumferential manner with a set-up part or a knitting end part in the sole cover part interposed therebetween. .
- the heel portion is formed in a tongue-like shape.
- the set-up portion or the knitting end portion formed at the heel side end portion of the footwear is a form extending from the upper end to the lower end of the instep cover portion (that is, the set-up portion or the knitting end portion is the sole). (Form which is not formed in the cover part).
- the entire heel portion is formed by turn-up knitting that gradually widens the knitting width or turn-up knitting that narrows the knitting width every time the number of steps in the wale direction of the stitch row constituting the heel portion increases.
- the form (henceforth a 2nd form) by which the heel part is formed in the shape of a tongue piece can be mentioned.
- the set-up portion or the knitting end portion formed at the heel side end portion of the footwear extends from the upper end to the sole cover portion of the instep cover portion, and extends to the sole cover portion.
- the heel portion is formed by a plurality of fan-shaped pieces arranged circumferentially across the set-up portion or the knitting end portion in the sole cover portion, and an intervening piece arranged between adjacent fan-shaped pieces.
- the form (henceforth a 3rd form) currently formed can be mentioned.
- the fan-shaped pieces are arranged in a circumferential shape, so that the heel portion is formed in a tongue shape.
- thermoplastic yarn As the footwear of the present invention, a form in which the footwear is a shoe upper knitted using a thermoplastic yarn can be mentioned.
- the footwear knitting method according to the present invention relates to a footwear knitting method including an instep cover portion that covers a part on the back side of the wearer and a sole cover portion that covers a sole of the wearer.
- a footwear knitting method of the present invention when a region within a predetermined range from the rear end portion of the wearer's heel is a heel portion and the other portion is a sole body portion of the sole cover portion, at least a pair of front and rear Footwear is knitted in accordance with the following procedure [1] or [2] using a flat knitting machine provided with a needle bed and capable of transferring stitches formed on each needle bed.
- a set-up portion is knitted, and on the basis of the set-up portion, a left side surface and a right side surface portion of the instep cover portion and a heel portion of the sole cover portion are knitted. Next, the sole body part of the sole cover part and the toe side part of the instep cover part are knitted to complete the footwear.
- a set-up portion is knitted, and a toe side portion of the instep cover portion and a sole body portion are knitted based on the set-up portion. Next, the heel portion of the sole cover portion and the heel side portion of the instep cover portion are knitted toward the heel side of the footwear, and the left side surface and the right side of the footwear at the heel side end portion of the footwear Close the face together to complete the footwear.
- the footwear of the present invention is produced by the footwear knitting method of the present invention, and is a footwear having a three-dimensional shape that conforms to the shape of the wearer's foot, particularly the shape of the heel, as compared to the conventional footwear. Therefore, when the footwear of the present invention is worn, it fits the wearer's foot without depending on the stretchability of the knitted fabric, and the stitches are locally stretched or twitched at the heel part of the footwear. It is difficult for problems to occur.
- the footwear of the present invention has a three-dimensional shape because a heel portion is formed on the sole cover portion of the footwear, and the shape of the heel portion is curved along the contour shape of the sole of the wearer. Because it is.
- the heel portion may be any of the first form, the second form, or the third form described above, but the first form is particularly preferable.
- the first form is because the boundary between the heel portion and the instep cover portion is smooth and the heel portion is easily knitted.
- thermoplastic yarn is not easily deformed and has excellent comfort.
- (A) is a schematic top perspective view of the footwear shown in Embodiment 1
- (B) is a schematic bottom perspective view of the footwear.
- (A) is the knitting process image figure which shows typically the knitting process of the footwear of Embodiment 1
- (B) is the partial bottom face enlarged view of the footwear knitted according to the knitting process image of (A).
- (A) is a schematic top perspective view of the footwear shown in Embodiment 2
- (B) is a schematic bottom perspective view of the footwear.
- (A) is a knitting process image diagram schematically showing the footwear knitting process of the second embodiment
- (B) is a bottom view of footwear knitted according to the knitting process image of (A)
- (C) is (A) It is a partial bottom view of the modification of the footwear knitted according to the knitting process image.
- (A) is a knitting process image diagram schematically showing the knitting process of the heel part of the footwear of Embodiment 3
- (B) is an explanatory diagram of the knitting method of the heel part
- (C) is according to the knitting process image of (A). It is a bottom enlarged view of the knitted heel part.
- a two-bed flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds and capable of transferring stitches between the front and rear needle beds was used.
- the flat knitting machine to be used is not limited to the two-bed flat knitting machine, and may be a four-bed flat knitting machine, for example.
- a shoe upper (footwear) 1 according to this embodiment shown in FIG. 1 is composed of a knitted structure obtained by knitting an instep cover portion 3 and a sole cover portion 2 together without sewing in accordance with a special knitting procedure. Is. The fact that the shoe upper 1 is knitted by a special knitting procedure can be seen from the fact that a substantially semicircular heel portion 20 is formed in a predetermined range region on the heel side of the sole cover portion 2 as will be described later. .
- the knitting structure which comprises the shoe upper 1 is not specifically limited, For example, a tentacle structure, a mesh structure, a rib structure, or these mixed structures may be sufficient.
- the portion of the shoe upper 1 of the present embodiment excluding the insert portion 4 to be described later is produced by starting knitting from the heel side end and ending knitting at the toe side end.
- the set-up portion 1 ⁇ / b> S which is a knitting start portion, extends in the height direction of the shoe upper 1 at the heel side end portion of the shoe upper 1. More specifically, the set-up portion 1S extends from the upper end of the instep cover portion 3 to the sole cover portion 2 through the lower end, and reaches the boundary between the heel portion 20 and the sole body portion 21.
- the knitting end portion 1E which is a knitting end portion, extends in the height direction of the shoe upper 1 at the toe side end of the instep cover portion 3 in the shoe upper 1, as shown in FIG. .
- the knitting of the shoe upper 1 proceeds from the heel side to the toe side, and a portion excluding the heel portion 20 and an insert portion 4 to be described later
- the stitches are aligned in the length direction (forward) of the shoe upper 1 (see the enlarged circled view in FIG. 1A).
- the overall appearance of the shoe upper 1 is improved by aligning the stitches.
- the heel portion 20 of the shoe upper 1 shown in FIG. 1 (B) is formed by knitting that varies the number of stitches in the knitting width direction of each stitch row when the stitch rows are stacked in a plurality of stages in the wale direction. In this way, by changing the number of stitches in the knitting width direction of the stitch rows of each step, the heel portion 20 becomes a tongue piece shape (substantially semicircular shape) whose width gradually decreases toward the heel side of the shoe upper 1. As a result, the shoe upper 1 has a three-dimensional shape along the roundness of the wearer's heel.
- the heel portion 20 is constituted by a plurality of fan-shaped pieces arranged in a circumferential shape with the set-up portion 1S in the heel portion 20 interposed therebetween. The knitting procedure of the heel portion 20 will be described later.
- the instep cover portion 3 of the shoe upper 1 according to the present embodiment is formed with a slit 50 extending from the wear mouth 40 toward the toe, so that it is easy to insert a foot from the wear mouth 40.
- an eyelet hole 60 for attaching an eyelet for passing a shoelace is formed at a position sandwiching the slit 50 in the instep cover portion 3.
- an insert portion 4 that reinforces the edge portion is provided at the edge portion in the vicinity of the mouth 40 of the shoe upper 1 of the present embodiment, that is, the upper edge portion of the instep cover portion 3.
- this insert portion 4 is not essential, by providing the insert portion 4, the contour shape of the edge portion of the instep cover portion 3 in the vicinity of the wear mouth 40 can be stabilized. As a result, from the wear mouth 40 The shoe upper 1 can be easily inserted into the foot.
- the insert part 4 in this embodiment is made of a knitted structure that is connected to the instep cover part 3 without sewing, and the direction of the stitches of the insert part 4 reflects the knitting process to be described later. It faces in the down direction.
- the insert portion 4 may be attached later to the shoe upper 1 without the insert portion 4.
- the insert portion 4 is formed by attaching a reinforcing material made of resin or the like to the edge portion of the shoe mouth 40 of the shoe upper 1 without the insert portion 4 or joining a knitted structure knitted separately from the shoe upper 1. Also good.
- FIG. 2A is a knitting image diagram schematically showing the knitting procedure of the right side portion of the shoe upper 1
- FIG. 2B is an enlarged partial bottom view of the sole cover portion 2 knitted according to the knitting image diagram.
- the left side portion of the shoe upper 1 in FIG. 2A may be considered to be disposed on the back side of the paper surface, and the right side portion and the left side portion of the shoe upper 1 are connected on the right side of the paper surface.
- the left part of the shoe upper 1 is knitted by the same knitting as the right part, the description thereof is omitted. Needless to say, since the shape of the foot is asymmetrical, it is preferable to change the knitting width of the right and left portions of the shoe upper 1 according to the shape of the foot.
- FIG. 2 (A) knitting proceeds from the lower side to the upper side.
- the shoe upper 1 according to the present embodiment is knitted by dividing it into five regions: an insert portion region ⁇ , a heel region ⁇ , a main body rear region ⁇ , a main body front region ⁇ , and a toe region ⁇ .
- the short dotted line in FIG. 2A indicates the boundary between the instep cover portion 3 and the sole cover portion 2
- the long dotted line also shown in FIG.
- the chain line represents the boundary between the regions ⁇ to ⁇ .
- lower case alphabets a to r are attached to the positions that are important for knitting.
- a set-up portion 1S is formed on a knitting needle in which the stitches of the insert portion 4 are not locked (see df).
- the set-up portion 1S extends from the upper end of the instep cover portion 3 to the position of the heel cover portion 2 through the lower end.
- the end of the set-up portion 1S on the heel cover portion 2 side extends to the boundary between the heel portion 20 and the sole body portion 21 in the heel cover portion 2. Yes.
- the position of the end portion of the set-up portion 1S determines the size of the heel portion 20.
- a plurality of stitch rows are knitted following the wale direction of the set-up portion 1S.
- part of the instep cover portion 3 and the fan-shaped piece 201 are knitted by performing turn-back knitting that gradually reduces the number of stitches in the knitting width direction at the right side of the drawing.
- the stitch row is transferred to the insert portion 4 side (left side) every time the stitch row is knitted for 1 to 3 stages by turnover knitting, and the insert portion 4 side (left side) stitch in the stitch row is transferred.
- the stitch on the instep cover part 3 side (right side) in the insert part 4 are joined.
- the right side part of the shoe upper 1 shown in figure and the left side part of the shoe upper 1 which is not shown in figure are joined in the position of the code
- the turn back knitting in which the number of stitches in the knitting width direction is gradually increased at the position on the right side of the paper is repeated twice.
- Part and fan-shaped pieces 202 and 203 are knitted.
- gh of the fan-shaped piece 202 is knitted continuously in the gf wale direction of the fan-shaped piece 201, the fan-shaped piece 201 and the fan-shaped piece 202 are joined, and the wh direction of the fan-shaped piece 202 is i-h.
- ij of the fan-shaped piece 203 is knitted, and the fan-shaped piece 202 and the fan-shaped piece 203 are joined.
- the stitch row knitted by turn knitting is transferred to the side of the insert portion 4 (left side), and a part of the dl line of the instep cover portion 3 is joined to the insert portion 4.
- a part of the instep cover part 3 and the fan-shaped piece 204 are knitted by performing turn-back knitting in which the number of stitches in the knitting width direction is gradually increased at the right side of the drawing.
- the kn of the fan-shaped piece 204 is knitted continuously in the kj wale direction of the fan-shaped piece 203, and the fan-shaped piece 203 and the fan-shaped piece 204 are joined.
- the symbols f, h, j, and m are connected to one, and the fan-shaped pieces 201 to 204 are arranged in a circle around the connected portion.
- the same knitting is performed in the left portion of the shoe upper 1 (not shown in FIG. 2A)
- the knitting of the fan-shaped piece 204 is finished, as shown in FIG.
- a heel portion 20 including fan-shaped pieces 201 to 204 and 205 to 208 arranged circumferentially with the set-up portion 1S interposed therebetween is formed.
- the fan-shaped pieces 205 to 208 are knitted fabrics on the left side portion of the shoe upper 1 knitted on the back side in FIG.
- fan-shaped pieces 201 to 208 are knitted fabrics knitted according to the same procedure as the fan-shaped pieces 201 to 204.
- These fan-shaped pieces 201 to 208 are centered on a portion indicated by a white circle (that is, a portion where symbols f, h, j, and m in FIG. 2 (B) is arranged circumferentially toward the left side), and the substantially arc-shaped portions outside the fan-shaped pieces 201 to 208 form the curved shape of the heel portion 20.
- the stitch width of the stitch row is increased after the stitch width of the stitch row is reduced.
- the portion of the insert portion 4 corresponding to the wearer's heel is curved toward the sole cover portion so as to avoid the heel (see also ln in FIG. 2).
- the curved shape is formed by increasing / decreasing the number of stitches in the knitting width direction of the instep cover portion 3 at a position on the side of the wearer (the position ln in FIG. 2). Therefore, the stitches constituting the instep cover portion 3 are straightly aligned toward the toe portion. If the stitches are increased or decreased within the knitting width of the instep cover portion 3, the direction of the stitches becomes uneven, and the appearance of the shoe upper 1 may be impaired.
- the increase or decrease of the stitches in the main body rear region ⁇ is preferably made different between the right side portion and the left side portion of the shoe upper 1 (the same applies to the main body front region ⁇ and the toe region ⁇ described later).
- the shape of the right side portion and the left side portion is changed in consideration of the three-dimensional shape of the foot, such as making the height of the thumb side portion of the shoe upper 1 higher than that of the little finger side.
- the stitch row that becomes the main body front region ⁇ of the instep cover portion 3 is knitted in a plurality of stages following the wale direction of the ab (n) -o stitch.
- the main body front region ⁇ can be tapered along the shape of the foot by reducing the knitting width of the stitch row at the position of the long dotted line as it goes toward the toe region ⁇ .
- the eyelet hole 60 is formed at a position near the slit 50 (see FIG. 1) when the main body front region ⁇ is knitted.
- the eyelet hole 60 can be formed by a known mesh knitting, miss knitting, or the like.
- the left portion and the right portion of the shoe upper 1 are closed together at the position qr of the tip.
- the tip of the shoe upper 1 can have a tapered shape along the shape of the foot.
- a knitting end portion 1E formed by closing the left side portion and the right side portion of the shoe upper 1 extends in the height direction of the shoe upper 1 as shown in FIG.
- a tongue (not shown) is attached to the inside of the slit 50 of the instep cover portion 3 and an outer sole (not shown) is joined to the sole cover portion 2. Further, an eyelet (not shown) is attached to the eyelet hole 60. Then, the entire shoe upper 1 is put into a foot shape and heat-treated to form the shoe upper 1 three-dimensionally. Finally, the shoe is completed through a shoelace.
- the tongue can be formed integrally with the shoe upper 1 by a flat knitting machine.
- a set-up portion may be knitted when the vicinity of the cut end 51 is knitted, and a tongue may be knitted following the set-up portion.
- the outer sole may not be attached to the shoe upper 1.
- the sole cover portion may be a thick knitted structure.
- the shoe upper 1 of the present embodiment has a three-dimensional shape that follows the shape of the wearer's foot regardless of the stretchability of the knitted fabric. This is because, as shown in FIG. 1B, a heel portion 20 having an arc-shaped line along the contour shape of the sole of the wearer is formed on the heel side portion of the sole cover portion 2. is there.
- the shoe upper 1 of the present embodiment is already three-dimensionally conforming to the shape of the foot when knitting is completed, when the shoe upper 1 is heat-treated and molded, the heel portion of the shoe upper 1 bumps, The arrangement of the stitches is hardly disturbed in the vicinity of the heel portion, and the appearance of the shoe upper 1 is good.
- the shoe upper 1 of the present embodiment is aligned with the direction of the stitches in the instep cover portion 3 facing the toe side (see the circle in FIG. 1 (A)), and looks good.
- This forms a set-up portion 1S extending in the height direction of the shoe upper 1 on the heel side of the shoe upper 1, and knitting the right and left portions of the shoe upper 1 from the set-up portion 1S. This is because the right and left portions of the shoe upper 1 are closed on the one toe side.
- looseness and knitting in the vicinity of the heel portion 20 are small, and the heel portion of the shoe upper 1 has a good appearance.
- the shoe upper 1 of this embodiment is excellent in productivity because it is obtained by knitting the instep cover portion 3 and the sole cover portion 2 together without sewing. Further, when the outer sole is connected to the shoe upper 1, the shoe upper 1 made of knitted fabric is already held in a three-dimensional shape, so that the alignment between the shoe upper 1 and the outer sole cover portion is easy. In addition, since the shoe upper 1 is not easily deformed, the attaching operation itself is easy.
- the shoe upper 1 ′ of the second embodiment has no difference in appearance from the shoe upper 1 of the first embodiment when viewed from the foot 40 side.
- the set-up portion 1S is formed from the upper end to the lower end of the instep cover portion 3, It does not reach the sole cover portion 2 ′.
- the entire heel portion 20 ′ formed on the heel side of the sole cover portion 2 ′ is formed by a turn-up knitting that gradually increases the knitting width or a turn-up knitting that gradually decreases the knitting width.
- the shoe upper 1 ′ having the heel portion 20 ′ can be knitted according to the knitting process image diagram of FIG.
- the way of viewing FIG. 4 (A) is the same as FIG. 2 (A).
- Alphabets a to p are attached to the knitting points in FIG.
- the insert portion 4 is knitted as in the first embodiment.
- a set-up portion 1S is formed on a knitting needle where the stitch of the insert portion 4 is not locked (see line de).
- the formation width of the set-up portion 1S is the same as the height of the heel side end portion of the shoe upper 1 ′ shown in FIG.
- the stitch row that becomes the side surface of the instep cover portion 3 is knitted following the wale direction of the set-up portion 1S, and the knitted stitch row is transferred to the left side of the paper surface, so that the line d- i is joined to dc in the line of the insert portion 4.
- the stitch abc (i) -jfe is locked to the needle bed. . Therefore, knitting of the heel portion 20 'is started following the wale direction of the line fe of the instep cover portion 3. By doing so, the line fe of the instep cover portion 3 and the line gh of the heel portion 20 'are joined.
- the line gj of the heel portion 20 ′ is connected to the line fj of the instep cover portion 3 while increasing the stitch row of the heel portion 20 ′.
- the knitting of the area djji of the instep cover part 3 and the knitting of the area ghkj of the heel part 20 ' may be performed in parallel.
- the heel portion 20 ' is knitted by turn-back knitting that gradually increases the knitting width.
- the turn back knitting is continuously performed on the right side portion (ghkj) of the heel portion 20 'and the left side portion (portion hidden behind).
- the knitting width is gradually expanded to form a heel portion 20 ′ having a curved shape on the heel side of the sole cover portion 2 ′.
- the right side part (ghkj) and the left side part (the part hidden behind) of the heel part 20 ' may be knitted separately.
- the parts are connected by a line hk.
- the heel portion 20 ' may be knitted by gradually reducing the knitting width.
- the heel portion after knitting the portion surrounded by djij in the instep cover portion 3, the heel portion continues in the wale direction of the line jife What is necessary is just to start 20 'organization.
- the set-up portion 1S of the shoe upper (not shown) of Embodiment 3 reaches the boundary between the heel portion 25 and the sole body portion 21 in the sole cover portion 2 as shown in FIG. This point is the same as the configuration of the first embodiment.
- the heel portion 25 is an intervening piece arranged between a plurality of fan-shaped pieces 251 to 258 arranged circumferentially across the set-up portion 1S and adjacent fan-shaped pieces 251 to 258. 291 to 296.
- a special knitting that forms a portion with high and low stitch density in the knitting width direction is required.
- FIG. 5A is an image diagram of the knitting process of the heel portion 25.
- the portion surrounded by efg, ghi, ijk, and kmm 'in FIG. 5A is a portion that becomes fan-shaped pieces 251 to 254, and the stitches It is a part with high density.
- a portion surrounded by fgh, hij, and jkm is a portion to be the interposition pieces 291 to 293, and is a portion having a low stitch density.
- FIG. 5C and taper in the direction opposite to the fan-shaped piece 251. It becomes the interposition piece 291 in which the front-end
- the other portions in FIG. 5A may be similarly performed. As a result, a heel portion 25 as shown in FIG. 5C is formed.
- Embodiments 1 to 3 knitting was started from the insert portion, and the shoe upper was knitted from the heel region ⁇ toward the toe region ⁇ .
- the insert portion may be knitted after the shoe upper is knitted from the toe region ⁇ toward the heel region ⁇ .
- the shoe upper 1 may be knitted by a knitting procedure in which the knitting procedure of FIG. Specifically, it is as follows.
- a set-up portion (see qr in FIG. 2) is formed on the needle bed, and a toe region ⁇ is knitted following the set-up portion.
- the portion that becomes the cut end 51 is subjected to the bind-off process, and the main body region ⁇ that follows the other portion is knitted.
- the knitting of the stitch row of the main body rear region ⁇ following the no of the main body front region ⁇ is repeated and the knitted stitch row is moved to the right side of the drawing.
- the knitting of the main body rear region ⁇ when a new stitch row is knitted following the stitch row brought closer to the right side of the drawing, hooks are formed at the ends of the stitch rows in the knitting width direction.
- the stitches corresponding to the n-1 lines of the main body rear region ⁇ are arranged on the needle bed, and the stitch row can be formed following the n-1 lines.
- the n ⁇ 1 line can be curved. Similar to the first embodiment, the curved line is formed so that the instep cover portion 3 does not interfere with the wearer's heel.
- the heel region ⁇ following the stitch at the end of the body rear region ⁇ in the wale direction (1m stitch) is knitted.
- the knitting of the stitch row of the heel region ⁇ is repeated and the knitted stitch row is moved to the right side of the drawing.
- the fan-shaped pieces 204, 203, 202, 201 are sequentially formed, and the instep cover portion 3 and the sole cover portion 2 are completed.
- the pn-l-df-stitch is locked on one of the needle beds. These stitches are joined to the left side portion of the shoe upper 1 on the back side of the paper to form the knitting end portion. Then, following the wale direction of the pnld stitch of the instep cover part 3, the insert part 4 is knitted to complete the shoe upper 1.
- the direction of the stitches in the shoe upper 1 of the first embodiment is just opposite to the shoe upper 1 of the first embodiment.
- a set-up portion 1S (knitting end portion in the fourth embodiment) is formed at the heel side end portion, and a knitting end portion 1E (set-up portion in the fourth embodiment) is formed at the toe side end portion.
- the set-up portion 1 S (knitting end portion) needs to be formed at the heel side end portion, but the knitting end portion (set-up portion) is on the toe side. It does not need to be formed at the end.
- An example of the knitting procedure in which the knitting end portion (set-up portion) is not formed at the toe side end portion is shown in FIG.
- the set-up portion 1S which is the heel side end portion of the shoe upper 1 is knitted, and the heel portion 20 and the heel side portion of the instep cover portion 3 are knitted following the set-up portion 1S.
- the sole body 21, the toe side portion of the instep cover portion 3, and the insert portion 4 are sequentially knitted by C-shaped knitting.
- the knitting end portion 1E is formed on the eyelet forming portion of the instep cover portion 3 and the upper end portion of the insert portion 4, and the shoe upper 1 is completed.
- the shoe upper 1 can also be completed by a procedure reverse to the knitting order described above.
- a shoelace type shoe upper having a shoelace has been described, but a step-in type shoe upper having no shoelace may be used.
- the slit 50 extending from the insert portion 4 to the toe may not be formed.
- the insert portion 4 may not be knitted. In that case, after the shoe upper 1 without the insert portion 4 is completed, it is preferable to attach a reinforcing material made of resin or the like to the edge portion of the shoe mouth 40 or to join the knitted insert portion 4 separately from the shoe upper 1.
- the sock 10 illustrated in FIG. 7 can be knitted.
- the insert portion 4 may be knitted in a cylindrical shape in FIG.
- crew socks, high socks, knee socks and the like can be produced.
- the toe side of the socks 10 is not limited to the closing method illustrated in FIG.
- a five-finger sock can be knitted by forming a plurality of finger bags on the toe side of the socks 10 and closing the tips of the finger bags.
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Abstract
Description
[1]踵側端部に形成される編出し部または編終わり部が、フットウェアの高さ方向に延び、かつヒール部に繋がる。
[2]ヒール部は、編目列をウエール方向に複数段積み重ね、かつ編目列の段数を積み重ねる際に徐々に編目列の編幅方向の編目数を異ならせる編成によって形成され、その編目数の変化によってヒール部は、フットウェアの踵側に向かって徐々に幅が狭くなる舌片状に形成されている。
なお、踵の後端部から所定範囲とは、後端部から土踏まずに至るまでの長さの約半分程度の範囲、具体的には後端部から2~6cm、好ましくは後端部から3~5cmまでの範囲のことである。
[1]編出し部を編成し、その編出し部に基づいてインステップカバー部の左側面および右側面の踵側部分と、ソールカバー部のヒール部と、を編成する。次いで、ソールカバー部のソール本体部と、インステップカバー部の爪先側部分と、を編成していき、フットウェアを完成させる。
[2]編出し部を編成し、その編出し部に基づいて前記インステップカバー部の爪先側部分と、ソール本体部と、を編成する。次いで、フットウェアの踵側に向かってソールカバー部のヒール部と、インステップカバー部の踵側部分と、を編成していき、フットウェアの踵側端部で前記フットウェアの左側面と右側面とを閉じ合わせてフットウェアを完成させる。
≪シューズアッパー≫
図1に示す本実施形態のシューズアッパー(フットウェア)1は、特殊な編成手順に従ってインステップカバー部3とソールカバー部2とを無縫製で一体に編成することによって得られた編組織からなるものである。このシューズアッパー1が特殊な編成手順によって編成されたことは、後述するように、ソールカバー部2の踵側の所定範囲の領域に、略半円形のヒール部20が形成されていることから分かる。なお、シューズアッパー1を構成する編組織は特に限定されず、例えば天竺組織やメッシュ組織、リブ組織、あるいはこれらの混合組織などであっても構わない。
上記シューズアッパー1は、熱可塑性樹脂などを含む編糸を用いて、シューズアッパー1の右側部分を横編機の一方の針床で、左側部分を他方の針床で編成することで作製することができる。図2(A)は、シューズアッパー1の右側部分の編成手順を模式的に示す編成イメージ図、図2(B)は編成イメージ図に従って編成されたソールカバー部2の部分底面拡大図である。図2(A)におけるシューズアッパー1の左側部分は、紙面奥側に配置されていると考えて良く、紙面右側でシューズアッパー1の右側部分と左側部分は繋がっている。シューズアッパー1の左側部分は、右側部分と同様の編成により編成されるので、その説明は省略する。なお、言うまでもないが、足の形状は左右非対称であるため、足の形状に合わせてシューズアッパー1の右側部分と左側部分の編幅などを変えることが好ましい。
図2に示す編成では、まず右側を折り返し位置とするC字状編成を行なって、インサート部4を編成する。つまり、紙面左側の位置では前後に係止されるインサート部4は繋がっておらず、この繋がっていない部分からスリット50(図1(A)参照)が形成される。この時点で、インサート部4のa-b-c-dの編目が針床に係止された状態になっている。
次いで、インサート部4の編目が係止されていない編針に編出し部1Sを形成する(d-e-f参照)。この編出し部1Sは、図1(B)に示すように、インステップカバー部3の上端から下端を経て、さらにヒールカバー部2の位置まで延びている。図1(B)を参照して既に述べたように、編出し部1Sのヒールカバー部2側の端部は、ヒールカバー部2におけるヒール部20とソール本体部21との境界にまで延びている。言い換えると、編出し部1Sの端部の位置が、ヒール部20の大きさを決定している。
次いで、l-mの編目のウエール方向に続いてインステップカバー部3とソールカバー部2となる編目列をC字状編成により編成することと、編成した編目列をインサート部4の側(左側)に目移しして、インサート部4のc-bの編目に重ね合わせることと、を繰り返す。この編成により、インステップカバー部3のl-nがインサート部4のc-bに接合され、インステップカバー部3の編目の向きは、シューズアッパー1の長さ方向(前向き)に向く。
次に、a-b(n)-oの編目のウエール方向に続いてインステップカバー部3の本体前部領域δとなる編目列を複数段、編成する。その際、爪先領域εに向かうに従い、編目列の編幅を長点線の位置で減らすことで、本体前部領域δを足の形状に沿った先細りの形状にすることができる。
爪先領域εの編成にあたっては、まずスリット50(図1参照)の切り込み端51となる部分をC字状編成で編出す。次いで、本体前部領域δのウエール方向終端の編目列と、切り込み端51となる部分の編目列のウエール方向に連続して筒状編成を行ない、爪先領域εを編成する。その際、長点線(図1の長点線も合わせて参照)で示すインステップカバー部3の甲側の位置とソールカバー部2側の位置で減し目を行なって編幅を小さくしていき、最後に先端のq-rの位置でシューズアッパー1の左側部分と右側部分とを閉じ合わせる。そうすることで、図1に示すように、シューズアッパー1の先端を、足の形状に沿った先細りの形状にすることができる。シューズアッパー1の左側部分と右側部分を閉じ合わせることで形成される編終わり部1Eは、図1(A)に示すようにシューズアッパー1の高さ方向に延びる。
実施形態2では、実施形態1とは異なる編成方法を図3,4に基づいて説明する。両実施形態の相違点は、ヒール部の構成とその編成方法のみであるので、本実施形態ではその相違点を中心に説明する。
まず、実施形態1と同様に、インサート部4を編成する。次いで、インサート部4の編目が係止されていない編針に編出し部1Sを形成する(ラインd-e参照)。編出し部1Sの形成幅は、図3に示すシューズアッパー1’の踵側端部の高さと同じである。
踵領域βの編成が終了したら、インステップカバー部3のラインi-j、およびヒール部20’のラインj-kのウエール方向に連続して、インステップカバー部3とソール本体部21を編成し、本体後部領域γを完成させる。そして、本体後部領域δと爪先領域εを編成し、ラインo-pを編終わり部1Eで閉じ合わせる。領域γ,δ,εの編成手順は実施形態1と全く同じである。
実施形態3では、実施形態1,2とは異なる編成方法を図5に基づいて説明する。実施形態3の編成方法は、ヒール部25の編成方法のみが実施形態1と異なる。従って、その相違点についてのみ説明する。
実施形態1~3では、インサート部から編成を開始し、踵領域βから爪先領域εに向かってシューズアッパーを編成した。これに対して、爪先領域εから踵領域βに向かってシューズアッパーを編成した後、インサート部を編成しても良い。例えば、図1を参照する実施形態1のシューズアッパー1の場合、図2(A)の編成手順をおおよそ上下逆にしたような編成手順でシューズアッパー1を編成すれば良い。具体的には、以下の通りである。
実施形態1~4では、踵側端部に編出し部1S(実施形態4では編終わり部)が、爪先側端部に編終わり部1E(実施形態4では編出し部)が形成されている。しかし、ヒール部20,20’,25を形成するために踵側端部に編出し部1S(編終わり部)が形成されている必要はあるが、編終わり部(編出し部)は爪先側端部に形成されている必要はない。爪先側端部に編終わり部(編出し部)が形成されない編成手順の一例を図6に示す。
実施形態1~5では、靴紐を有するシューレースタイプのシューズアッパーを説明したが、靴紐のないステップインタイプのシューズアッパーとすることもできる。その場合、インサート部4を筒状に形成し、インステップカバー部3を編成する際、インサート部4から爪先に延びるスリット50を形成しなければ良い。
実施形態1~6と同様の編成を利用することで、図7に例示するようなソックス10を編成することもできる。このようなソックス10を編成する場合、例えば、図2(A)においてインサート部4を筒状編成すれば良い。その際、インサート部4のウエール方向の長さを調整することで、クルーソックス、ハイソックス、ニーソックスなどを作製することができる。なお、ソックス10の爪先側は、図7に例示するような閉じ合わせ方に限定されるわけではない。例えば、ソックス10の爪先側に複数の指袋を形成し、各指袋の先端を閉じ合わせることで、五本指ソックスなどを編成することができる。
2,2’ ソールカバー部
20,20’,25 ヒール部
201~208 扇状ピース
251~258 扇状ピース 291~296 介在ピース
21 ソール本体部
3 インステップカバー部
4 インサート部 40 履き口
50 スリット 51 切り込み端
60 鳩目孔
10 ソックス(フットウェア)
Claims (6)
- 着用者の甲側の部分を覆うインステップカバー部と、着用者の足裏を覆うソールカバー部と、を備えるフットウェアにおいて、
前記フットウェアの踵側端部の位置から編出されて前記踵側端部以外の位置で編終わるか、または前記踵側端部以外の位置から編出されて前記踵側端部の位置で編終わることで、前記インステップカバー部と前記ソールカバー部とが編組織によって無縫製で一体に編成されており、
前記ソールカバー部のうち、着用者の踵の後端部から所定範囲の領域に対応する部分をヒール部、それ以外の部分をソール本体部としたとき、
前記踵側端部に形成される編出し部または編終わり部が、前記フットウェアの高さ方向に延び、かつ前記ヒール部に繋がり、
前記ヒール部は、編目列をウエール方向に複数段積み重ね、かつ編目列の段数を積み重ねる際に徐々に編目列の編幅方向の編目数を異ならせる編成によって形成され、その編目数の変化によって前記ヒール部は、フットウェアの踵側に向かって徐々に幅が狭くなる舌片状に形成されていることを特徴とするフットウェア。 - 前記フットウェアの踵側端部に形成される編出し部または編終わり部は、前記インステップカバー部の上端から下端を経て、前記ソールカバー部に延び、前記ヒール部と前記ソール本体部との境界に至り、
前記ヒール部は、前記ソールカバー部における前記編出し部または編終わり部を挟んで周状に並ぶ複数の扇状ピースによって形成されていることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のフットウェア。 - 前記フットウェアの踵側端部に形成される編出し部または編終わり部は、前記インステップカバー部の上端から下端に至り、
前記ヒール部全体が、前記ヒール部を構成する編目列のウエール方向の段数が増すごとに漸次編幅を広くする引き返し編成、もしくは漸次編幅を狭くする引き返し編成によって形成されていることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のフットウェア。 - 前記フットウェアの踵側端部に形成される編出し部または編終わり部は、前記インステップカバー部の上端から下端を経て、前記ソールカバー部に延び、前記ヒール部と前記ソール本体部との境界に至り、
前記ヒール部は、前記ソールカバー部における前記編出し部または編終わり部を挟んで周状に並ぶ複数の扇状ピースと、隣接する扇状ピースの間に配置される介在ピースと、によって形成されていることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のフットウェア。 - 前記フットウェアは、熱可塑性糸を用いて編成されたシューズアッパーであることを特徴とする請求項1~4のいずれか一項に記載のフットウェア。
- 着用者の甲側の部分を覆うインステップカバー部と、着用者の足裏を覆うソールカバー部と、を備えるフットウェアの編成方法において、
前記ソールカバー部のうち、着用者の踵の後端部から所定範囲の領域をヒール部、それ以外の部分をソール本体部としたとき、
少なくとも前後一対の針床を備え、各針床に形成される編目の目移しが可能な横編機を用いて、下記[1]または[2]の手順に従って前記フットウェアを編成し、
前記ヒール部の編成にあたって、編目列をウエール方向に複数段積み重ねる際に各段の編目列の編幅方向の編目数を異ならせる編成を行なうことを特徴とするフットウェアの編成方法。
[1]
編出し部を編成し、
その編出し部に基づいて前記インステップカバー部の左側面および右側面の踵側部分と、前記ソールカバー部のヒール部と、を編成し、
次いで、前記ソールカバー部のソール本体部と、前記インステップカバー部の爪先側部分と、を編成していき、前記フットウェアを完成させる。
[2]
編出し部を編成し、
その編出し部に基づいて前記インステップカバー部の爪先側部分と、前記ソール本体部と、を編成し、
次いで、前記フットウェアの踵側に向かって前記ソールカバー部のヒール部と、前記インステップカバー部の踵側部分と、を編成していき、前記フットウェアの踵側端部で前記フットウェアの左側面と右側面とを閉じ合わせて前記フットウェアを完成させる。
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EP13842509.5A EP2901873A4 (en) | 2012-09-25 | 2013-07-26 | SHOE AND METHOD FOR KNITTING SHOE |
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CN201380049802.5A CN104703493B (zh) | 2012-09-25 | 2013-07-26 | 鞋袜及鞋袜的编织方法 |
US14/423,456 US9719198B2 (en) | 2012-09-25 | 2013-07-26 | Footwear and method for knitting footwear |
JP2014538246A JP6177247B2 (ja) | 2012-09-25 | 2013-07-26 | フットウェア、およびフットウェアの編成方法 |
KR1020157010340A KR101648753B1 (ko) | 2012-09-25 | 2013-07-26 | 풋웨어 및 풋웨어의 편성방법 |
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WO2015183350A1 (en) * | 2014-05-30 | 2015-12-03 | Nike Innovate C.V. | Method of making an article of footwear including knitting a knitted component of warp knit construction forming a seamless bootie |
WO2015183348A1 (en) * | 2014-05-30 | 2015-12-03 | Nike Innovate C.V. | Method of making an article of footwear including knitting a knitted component of warp knit construction forming a seamless with wrap-around portion |
JP2015223348A (ja) * | 2014-05-28 | 2015-12-14 | 美津濃株式会社 | シューズのアッパーおよびそれを備えるシューズ |
WO2016172783A1 (en) * | 2015-04-30 | 2016-11-03 | Visionknit Limited | Method for manufacturing a shoe upper |
WO2017029957A1 (ja) * | 2015-08-19 | 2017-02-23 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | フットウェア |
KR20170051456A (ko) * | 2014-08-28 | 2017-05-11 | 나이키 이노베이트 씨.브이. | 갑피의 뒤꿈치부용 편직된 구성요소를 구비하는 신발류 물품 |
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JPWO2017029957A1 (ja) * | 2015-08-19 | 2018-05-31 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | フットウェア |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
US9719198B2 (en) | 2017-08-01 |
KR20150058476A (ko) | 2015-05-28 |
JPWO2014050289A1 (ja) | 2016-08-22 |
TW201425679A (zh) | 2014-07-01 |
CN104703493B (zh) | 2017-02-22 |
EP2901873A1 (en) | 2015-08-05 |
TWI579424B (zh) | 2017-04-21 |
US20160198797A1 (en) | 2016-07-14 |
JP6177247B2 (ja) | 2017-08-09 |
EP2901873A4 (en) | 2016-06-01 |
CN104703493A (zh) | 2015-06-10 |
BR112015004289A2 (pt) | 2017-07-04 |
KR101648753B1 (ko) | 2016-08-17 |
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