WO2016172783A1 - Method for manufacturing a shoe upper - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing a shoe upper Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2016172783A1 WO2016172783A1 PCT/CA2015/050362 CA2015050362W WO2016172783A1 WO 2016172783 A1 WO2016172783 A1 WO 2016172783A1 CA 2015050362 W CA2015050362 W CA 2015050362W WO 2016172783 A1 WO2016172783 A1 WO 2016172783A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- carriers
- collar
- heel
- knitting
- knit
- Prior art date
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
- A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
- A43B1/04—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/03—Shape features
- D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/0332—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with gussets folding into three dimensional shape, e.g. seat covers
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
Definitions
- one aspect of the invention is a method for constructing a shoe upper using a flat knitting machine, the upper being of the type having a toe, a heel, a vamp connecting the heel to the toe and a collar having a split area, the method comprising: knitting the toe: knitting the vamp using a plurality of yarn carriers a pair of the plurality forming a pair of quarter panels: which initially adjoin one another; which initially taper in width; and wherein the knitting width reduces without narrowing the width of the knit sections as the quarter panels terminate; and a further pair of carriers of the plurality constructing the collar, these carriers connecting, respecting, to the quarter panels until the carriers reach the split area of the collar; these further carriers creating the split by transferring stitches from one of the quarter panels in the direction of the other quarter panel, following the outlines of the collar; and knitting the heel.
- the carriers which construct the collar can use a tubular knit.
- the carriers which construct the collar can use a half-jacquard stitch.
- the carriers which create the quarter panels can wait outside the knit area while the collar-creating carriers finish the collar.
- knitting the heel can involve the use of a further yarn carrier to knit the heel collar, which is knit as a tubular as the same size as the quarter panels.
- Forming yet another aspect of the invention is an upper constructed using the method.
- Figure 1 shows a shoe upper manufactured in accordance with an exemplary
- Toe The section of the upper that covers the toes Vamp: The section of upper that covers the front of the foot, exclusive of the toes, as far as the back as the joint to the quarter.
- panels 6A, 6B are knitted as a tubular; area 6A is knit by the carrier that formed panels 4A and 5A; area 6B is knit by the carrier that formed panel 4B and 5B. Section 6A connects to section 4C and 4D; section 6B connects to 5C and 5D.
- a heel area 7 is thereafter knit, using the same yarn carriers as used in 4A and 5A, to form a trapeze shape that enlarges until the first and last needle of the overall width of the shoe upper are reached.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The method uses a flat knitting machine. The upper has a toe, a heel, a vamp connecting the heel to the toe and a collar having a split area. The method involves: (i) knitting the toe; (ii) knitting the vamp using a plurality of yarn carriers, a pair of the plurality forming a pair of quarter panels: which initially adjoin one another; which initially taper in width; wherein the knitting width reduces without narrowing the width of the knit sections as the quarter panels terminate, a further pair of carriers of the plurality constructing the collar, these carriers connecting, respecting, to the quarter panels until the carriers reach the split area of the collar; these further carriers create the split by transferring stitches from one of the quarter panels in the direction of the other quarter panel, following the outlines of the collar; and (iii) knitting the heel.
Description
METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A SHOE UPPER
Field
The invention relates to the field of shoe manufacture.
Background of the Invention It is known to manufacture a shoe by knitting a flat preform, sewing portions of the preform together to form a shoe upper and securing the shoe upper to a sole.
Summary of the Invention Forming one aspect of the invention is a method for constructing a shoe upper using a flat knitting machine, the upper being of the type having a toe, a heel, a vamp connecting the heel to the toe and a collar having a split area, the method comprising: knitting the toe: knitting the vamp using a plurality of yarn carriers a pair of the plurality forming a pair of quarter panels: which initially adjoin one another; which initially taper in width; and wherein the knitting width reduces without narrowing the width of the knit sections as the quarter panels terminate; and a further pair of carriers of the plurality constructing the collar, these carriers connecting, respecting, to the quarter panels until the carriers reach the split area of the collar; these further carriers creating the split by transferring stitches from one of the quarter panels in the direction of the other quarter panel, following the outlines of the collar; and knitting the heel. l
According to another aspect of the invention, the carriers which construct the collar can use a tubular knit.
According to another aspect of the invention, the carriers which construct the collar can connect to the quarter panels via a tuck stitch.
According to another aspect of the invention, the carriers which construct the collar can use a half-jacquard stitch. According to another aspect of the invention, the carriers which create the quarter panels can wait outside the knit area while the collar-creating carriers finish the collar.
According to another aspect of the invention, knitting the heel can commence with the knitting of a heel seam area, knit in two panels as a tubular, one of the heel seam panels being knit by the carrier that formed the quarter panels and the other heel seam panel being knit by the carrier that formed the other quarter panel.
According to another aspect of the invention, knitting the heel can involve the use of a further yarn carrier to knit the heel collar, which is knit as a tubular as the same size as the quarter panels.
According to another aspect of the invention, knitting the heel further can involve the use of the same yarn carriers that formed the quarter panels to form a shape that enlarges until the first and last needle of the overall width of the shoe upper are reached.
Forming yet another aspect of the invention is an upper constructed using the method.
Other advantages and characteristics of the present invention will become evident upon a review of the following detailed description and the appended drawings, the latter being briefly described hereinafter.
Brief Description of the Drawings
Figure 1 shows a shoe upper manufactured in accordance with an exemplary
embodiment of the inventive method
Figure 2 shows in schematic form a knitting pattern for the shoe upper of Figure 1.
Detailed Description of an Exemplary Embodiment
In the detailed description which follows, the following terms having the following meanings: Upper: The entire part of the shoe that covers the foot.
Sole The entire part of the shoe that sits below the foot.
Quarter: The rear and sides of the upper that covers the heel
Toe: The section of the upper that covers the toes Vamp: The section of upper that covers the front of the foot, exclusive of the toes, as far as the back as the joint to the quarter.
Throat: The opening of a shoe Collar Reinforced area surrounding the throat, defined by a heel collar and a quarter collar
Reference is now made to Figure 1 which shows a shoe upper manufactured in accordance with an exemplary embodiment of the inventive method, and Figure 2, which shows in schematic form a knitting pattern for the shoe upper.
Persons of ordinary skill will readily appreciate that areas indicated with N in Figure 2 are areas in which no knitting needles are engaged.
As an initial matter, it will be evident that the knitting pattern is of the type used by a flat knitting machine; it will equally be understood that the flat knitting machine forms no part of the invention. Manufacture commences with the construction of the vamp, and more particularly, with the creation of a starting knit row 1 .
Thereafter, separate yam carriers each build up a respective trapezoidal panel 1A, 1 B that tapers in width.
A further knit row 1.1 connects 1A, 1 B.
Thereafter, a further generally-trapezoidal panel 1 C is constructed. All of the foregoing is constructed using a half-jacquard knit.
Thereafter, a single yarn carrier is used to create two seam rows 2, each running along a respective side of the trapezoidal panel 1C and the adjacent one of trapezoidal panels 1A, 1B A toe upper section 3 is thereafter knit using a single yarn carrier. The initial row of upper section 3 commences at the end of panel 1 C. Each subsequent row lengthens slightly; each row of section 3 connects one stitch left and right from the seam row 2 until the knitting rows of area 3 reach the start and end stiches of seam row 2. At this point, the row is the full width of the starting knitting row 1. Thereafter, the rows continue to lengthen slightly, at a slower rate of increase.
The remainder of the vamp is thereafter knit using multiple yarn carriers
• knitting is carried on by separate yarn carriers building from the final row 4.0 of section 3 to form panels 4A, 5A which initially adjoin one another, initially taper in width, and ultimately form panels 4C, 5C wherein the knitting width on the left and right side is reduced without narrowing the width of the sections
• further yarn carriers construct the collar quarter 4B, 5B using a half-jacquard stitch; these carriers connect, respectively, via a tuck stitch to areas 4A/4C and 5A/5C until the carriers reach the split area of the quarter collar; these carriers create the split by transferring stitches from the areas 4B and 5B into 4A and 5A direction, following the outlines of the collar and using a tubular knit
• at the end of sections 4C and 5C, the yarn carriers creating those panels wait outside the knit area while the collar-creating carriers finish the peak sections 4D, 5D
Next constructed are panels 6A, 6B, which form the heel seam area.
These panels 6A, 6B are knitted as a tubular; area 6A is knit by the carrier that formed panels 4A and 5A; area 6B is knit by the carrier that formed panel 4B and 5B. Section 6A connects to section 4C and 4D; section 6B connects to 5C and 5D.
Thereafter, a further yarn carried is used to knit area 6C which defines the heel collar; this carrier connects area 6A with 6B and knit a net-row which defines a heel collar starter row Area 6C is a tubular in the same size as made in 4B and 5B.
A heel area 7 is thereafter knit, using the same yarn carriers as used in 4A and 5A, to form a trapeze shape that enlarges until the first and last needle of the overall width of the shoe upper are reached.
A rounding of the lower heel area is provided by section 8A; here, the left and right side of the area are narrowed by 12 stitches to cut a heel curve
A lower rounded heel curve is thereafter created in 8B by decreasing the knit area without changing the overall width.
Finally, linking off (fixed) stitches 8C are constructed over the perimeter of section 8B
Whereas a specific embodiment of the method and of the upper constructed therewith is described, it will be evident to persons of ordinary skill in the art that variations are possible. The invention should accordingly be understood to be limited only by the accompanying claims, purposively construed.
Claims
A method for constructing a shoe upper using a flat knitting machine, the upper being of the type having a toe, a heel, a vamp connecting the heel to the toe and a collar having a split area, the method comprising: knitting the toe: knitting the vamp using a plurality of yarn carriers a pair of the plurality forming a pair of quarter panels which initially adjoin one another which initially taper in width wherein the knitting width reduces without narrowing the width of the knit sections as the quarter panels terminate a further pair of carriers of the plurality constructing the collar, these carriers connecting, respecting, to the quarter panels until the carriers reach the split area of the collar; these further carriers create the split by transferring stitches from one of the quarter panels in the direction of the other quarter panel, following the outlines of the collar; and knitting the heel.
A method according to claim 1 , wherein the carriers which construct the collar use a tubular knit.
A method according to claim 1 , wherein the carriers which construct the collar connect to the quarter panels via a tuck stitch.
4. A method according to claim 1 , wherein the carriers which construct the collar use a half-jacquard stitch.
5.. A method according to claim 1 , wherein the carriers which create the quarter panels wait outside the knit area while the collar-creating carriers finish.
6 A method according to claim 1 , wherein knitting the heel commences with the knitting of a heel seam area, knit in two panels as a tubular, one of the heel seam panels being knit by the carrier that formed the quarter panels and the other heel seam panel being knit by the carrier that formed the other quarter panel.
7 A method according to claim 6, wherein knitting the heel involves the use of a further yarn carrier to knit the heel collar, which is knit as a tubular as the same size as the quarter panels.
8. A method according to claim 7, wherein knitting the heel further involves the use of the same yarn carriers that formed the quarter panels to form a shape that enlarges until the first and last needle of the overall width of the shoe upper are reached.
9. A shoe upper constructed in accordance with the method of any one of claims 1 to 8.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CA2015/050362 WO2016172783A1 (en) | 2015-04-30 | 2015-04-30 | Method for manufacturing a shoe upper |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CA2015/050362 WO2016172783A1 (en) | 2015-04-30 | 2015-04-30 | Method for manufacturing a shoe upper |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2016172783A1 true WO2016172783A1 (en) | 2016-11-03 |
Family
ID=57198004
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CA2015/050362 WO2016172783A1 (en) | 2015-04-30 | 2015-04-30 | Method for manufacturing a shoe upper |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| WO (1) | WO2016172783A1 (en) |
Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107794636A (en) * | 2017-10-24 | 2018-03-13 | 保丽信(惠州)织造有限公司 | A kind of double braid footwear closing method |
| CN107974757A (en) * | 2017-12-13 | 2018-05-01 | 慈星互联科技有限公司 | A kind of weaving method of 3D vamps |
| CN108978010A (en) * | 2017-06-05 | 2018-12-11 | 纮织国际有限公司 | Have the integrally formed three-dimensional shoes embryo and its manufacturing method of tongue piece |
| EP3412814A1 (en) * | 2017-06-05 | 2018-12-12 | Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. | Three-dimensional integrated shoe blank with tongue and method for manufacturing the same |
| WO2019083833A1 (en) | 2017-10-23 | 2019-05-02 | Carbon, Inc. | Window variability correction in additive manufacturing |
| WO2019222094A1 (en) | 2018-05-14 | 2019-11-21 | Carbon, Inc. | Stereolithography apparatus with individually addressable light source arrays |
| WO2020117490A1 (en) | 2018-12-03 | 2020-06-11 | Carbon, Inc. | Window thermal profile calibration in additive manufacturing |
| WO2020146092A1 (en) | 2019-01-09 | 2020-07-16 | Carbon, Inc. | Systems and apparatuses for additive manufacturing with process update and lock down |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2014050289A1 (en) * | 2012-09-25 | 2014-04-03 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | Footwear and method for knitting footwear |
| US8800172B2 (en) * | 2011-04-04 | 2014-08-12 | Nike, Inc. | Article of footwear having a knit upper with a polymer layer |
| US8959959B1 (en) * | 2014-02-03 | 2015-02-24 | Nike, Inc. | Knitted component for an article of footwear including a full monofilament upper |
| WO2015038243A1 (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2015-03-19 | Nike Innovate C.V. | Article of footwear incorporating a knitted component with integrally knit contoured portion |
| WO2015037540A1 (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2015-03-19 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | Instep cover and method for knitting instep cover |
-
2015
- 2015-04-30 WO PCT/CA2015/050362 patent/WO2016172783A1/en active Application Filing
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US8800172B2 (en) * | 2011-04-04 | 2014-08-12 | Nike, Inc. | Article of footwear having a knit upper with a polymer layer |
| WO2014050289A1 (en) * | 2012-09-25 | 2014-04-03 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | Footwear and method for knitting footwear |
| WO2015038243A1 (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2015-03-19 | Nike Innovate C.V. | Article of footwear incorporating a knitted component with integrally knit contoured portion |
| WO2015037540A1 (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2015-03-19 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | Instep cover and method for knitting instep cover |
| US8959959B1 (en) * | 2014-02-03 | 2015-02-24 | Nike, Inc. | Knitted component for an article of footwear including a full monofilament upper |
Cited By (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN108978010A (en) * | 2017-06-05 | 2018-12-11 | 纮织国际有限公司 | Have the integrally formed three-dimensional shoes embryo and its manufacturing method of tongue piece |
| EP3412814A1 (en) * | 2017-06-05 | 2018-12-12 | Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. | Three-dimensional integrated shoe blank with tongue and method for manufacturing the same |
| CN108978010B (en) * | 2017-06-05 | 2020-07-07 | 纮织国际有限公司 | Integrally formed three-dimensional shoe blank with tongue piece and manufacturing method thereof |
| WO2019083833A1 (en) | 2017-10-23 | 2019-05-02 | Carbon, Inc. | Window variability correction in additive manufacturing |
| CN107794636A (en) * | 2017-10-24 | 2018-03-13 | 保丽信(惠州)织造有限公司 | A kind of double braid footwear closing method |
| CN107974757A (en) * | 2017-12-13 | 2018-05-01 | 慈星互联科技有限公司 | A kind of weaving method of 3D vamps |
| WO2019222094A1 (en) | 2018-05-14 | 2019-11-21 | Carbon, Inc. | Stereolithography apparatus with individually addressable light source arrays |
| WO2020117490A1 (en) | 2018-12-03 | 2020-06-11 | Carbon, Inc. | Window thermal profile calibration in additive manufacturing |
| WO2020146092A1 (en) | 2019-01-09 | 2020-07-16 | Carbon, Inc. | Systems and apparatuses for additive manufacturing with process update and lock down |
| US11982991B2 (en) | 2019-01-09 | 2024-05-14 | Carbon, Inc. | Systems and apparatuses for additive manufacturing with process update and lock down |
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