WO2014005245A1 - 一种丝光纱线、免浆料梭织面料及其生产方法 - Google Patents

一种丝光纱线、免浆料梭织面料及其生产方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014005245A1
WO2014005245A1 PCT/CN2012/000922 CN2012000922W WO2014005245A1 WO 2014005245 A1 WO2014005245 A1 WO 2014005245A1 CN 2012000922 W CN2012000922 W CN 2012000922W WO 2014005245 A1 WO2014005245 A1 WO 2014005245A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
mercerizing
cotton
mercerized
woven fabric
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PCT/CN2012/000922
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
朱国民
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无锡诺赛净科技有限公司
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Priority to PCT/CN2012/000922 priority Critical patent/WO2014005245A1/zh
Publication of WO2014005245A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014005245A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • D06M11/40—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table combined with, or in absence of, mechanical tension, e.g. slack mercerising
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for producing a mercerized yarn or a woven fabric, and more particularly to a mercerized yarn of cotton and a blended yarn thereof. Slurry-free woven fabric of natural or colored yarn and processing method thereof. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
  • the process in which a yarn passes through a high-temperature burner at a high speed to burn off excess fluff on the surface is called yarn singeing.
  • the surface of the yarn after singeing requires a smooth, uniform hairiness and no significant damage.
  • Mercerizing means that the yarn is subjected to a certain tension under the action of a strong alkali to cause irreversible swelling.
  • the gloss and the gloss are greatly improved, the color depth of the dyeing is greatly improved, and the dimensional stability of the yarn tends to be balanced.
  • the frictional resistance of mechanical parts such as healds and steel buckles can cause surface abrasion and strong damage of the yarn, which directly affects the weaving efficiency of the fabric and the strength of the finished product, and must be complicated before weaving.
  • the sizing process makes the surface hairiness of the yarn tend to be flat, enhances the yarn's resistance to friction and tensile strength, and improves the weaving efficiency and quality.
  • the enzyme desizing treatment is required to remove the fabric.
  • the slurry causes waste of manpower and material resources and pollution of water resources in the weaving process of the fabric. Sizing and desizing in the weaving process of woven fabrics are the main source of influence on weaving efficiency and sewage discharge.
  • ZL200810194777 uses the method of yarn mercerizing to improve the strength of the yarn, so that the yarn can meet the strength of the weaving of the woven fabric without sizing. Requires that pulp-free weaving is realized, and the processing steps are shortened, the investment in processing equipment and workshops is reduced, and the discharge of sewage is avoided.
  • the patent ZL200810194777 uses the method of yarn mercerizing to improve the strength of the yarn, so that the yarn can meet the strength of the weaving of the woven fabric without sizing. Requires that pulp-free weaving is realized, and the processing steps are shortened, the investment in processing equipment and workshops is reduced, and the discharge of sewage is avoided.
  • the patent ZL200810194777 uses the method of yarn mercerizing to improve the strength of the yarn, so that the yarn can meet the strength of the weaving of the woven fabric without sizing. Requires that pulp-free weaving is realized, and the processing steps are shortened, the investment in processing equipment and workshops is reduced, and the discharge of sewage
  • the present invention is directed to a method for processing a mercerized yarn and a slurry-free woven fabric, which employs a special mercerizing process, not only It can be applied to pure cotton yarns and can be used in cotton-containing blended yarns, including cotton/linen, cotton/hemp, cotton/silk and cotton/tencel, while dyeing to smooth mercerized yarns. , extending the range of paddle-free weaving to the range of color yarns, expanding the practical range of pulp-free weaving. The smoothness and hairiness of the yarn during the singeing process are very low, and the special mercerizing process gives the yarn excellent gloss and perfect dimensional stability.
  • the singeing and mercerizing can be stopped. , thereby shortening the finishing process of the pulp-free woven fabric and improving the production efficiency.
  • a special yarn mercerizing method the yarn is subjected to a mercerizing process, and the twisted yarn is mercerized on the yarn mercerizing machine, and the alkali concentration of the mercerizing liquid is 25 to 35 5 ⁇ 5 ⁇
  • the reaction time is 3. 5 ⁇ 5 minutes.
  • the reaction time is 3. 5 ⁇ 5 minutes.
  • the reaction time is 3. 5 ⁇ 5 minutes.
  • the reaction time is 3. 5 ⁇ 5 minutes.
  • the reaction time is 3. 5 ⁇ 5 minutes.
  • the reaction time is 3. 5 ⁇ 5 minutes.
  • the reaction time is 3. 5 ⁇ 5 minutes.
  • the yarn types include pure cotton, cotton/linen, cotton/hemp, cotton/silk, cotton/tencel/silk or cotton/tencel.
  • the yarn is singed prior to mercerizing, and after singeing, the surface is required to be smooth and the hairiness residual rate is low.
  • the yarn is directly washed with water to neutral after mercerizing, or dyed to form a colored yarn for weaving of the fabric.
  • the mercerizing process described above is performed prior to yarn dyeing.
  • the yarn is dyed and then subjected to the above mercerizing process and then washed to a neutral range. After singeing, the fabric is no longer singed during the finishing process.
  • the present invention also provides a mercerized yarn produced by the above-described special yarn mercerizing method.
  • the invention also provides a slurry-free woven fabric, which is woven by the special yarn scouring method, and the woven fabric is woven without sizing and desizing in the manufacturing process, and the manufacturing is free.
  • the mercerizing process of the woven woven fabric in the finishing is an optional process.
  • a method for processing a paddle-free woven fabric is carried out as follows:
  • Yarn singeing The yarn is burned by the singeing machine to remove excess hairiness on the surface.
  • the surface is required to be smooth and clean, without yellowing and whitening.
  • Yarn shake The singeed tubular yarn is shaken into a specific weight of skein by a shaker for the subsequent mercerizing and dyeing. Color process use.
  • Yarn mercerizing The stranded yarn is mercerized on the yarn mercerizing machine.
  • concentration of alkali in the mercerizing is 25 ⁇ : Baume
  • the temperature of the alkali is 17 ⁇ 23°C
  • the temperature of hot washing is 8% ⁇ 2. 1%
  • the reaction time is 5% ⁇ 2. 1%
  • the reaction time is 1. 5% ⁇ 2. 1%
  • the reaction time is 2 to 3 minutes.
  • the application of greater tension causes the gloss of the cotton yarn to increase little, but the elongation at break and the adsorptivity decrease; the prolonged soaking time is not significant for enhancing the mercerizing effect.
  • the present invention achieves a better swelling state of the yarn in the lye by the lye concentration and the temperature, the hot water washing temperature, and the mercerizing stretching length and the alkali immersion time of the conventional mercerizing process, and at the same time imparting a larger Stretching achieves greater gloss and dimensional stability, which is more conducive to subsequent fabric weaving and finishing.
  • the dyeing process is carried out after pickling and pre-treatment of the yarn after the mercerizing machine, and the dyeing process is the same as that of the normal yarn 3 ⁇ 4 yarn dyeing process. There is no significant improvement in the strength and hairiness of the yarn after dyeing, and any influence on the subsequent pulp-free weaving. Further, the mercerizing of the yarn is divided into mercerizing before dyeing and mercerizing after dyeing. The present invention focuses on the mercerizing process before dyeing, but is also applicable to the range of mercerizing and rewashing of the yarn after dyeing to neutral.
  • Rewinding The yarn is rewinded into a constant weight, number and tightness of the tubular yarn through the rewinding machine for the subsequent weaving of the woven fabric.
  • Woven weaving Arranging mercerized cotton yarn, mercerized cotton/hemp yarn, mercerized cotton/twisted yarn, mercerized cotton/tencel/silk or mercerized cotton/tencel yarn according to the designed length into parallel and width-parallel
  • the yarn is wound on the warp beam or the weaving shaft of the loom, and the weft yarn is made of cotton, hemp, wool, silk chemical fiber or mercerized yarn, and woven into a woven fabric according to a specific structure.
  • the mercerized yarn can withstand the stretching and friction during the weaving process of the woven fabric without cracking and fluffing, so there is no need for complicated sizing process before weaving, and there is no slurry on the fabric itself. Residue, no desizing treatment is required, thereby eliminating the desizing process in the finishing of conventional woven fabrics. In the same way, the fabric is also burnt out during the singeing process, the residual rate of the yarn on the surface of the yarn is already low, and the woven fabric has almost no excess fluff, so there is no need to burn in the finishing. Hair treatment.
  • mercerizing is an unnecessary production process, which can be selectively performed, and is non-essential. Processing step, this is because the strength, gloss and dimensional stability of the yarn after the above special mercerizing process are greatly improved, the gloss and dimensional stability of the fabric after weaving have reached the requirements of the national standard, and can fully satisfy the customer.
  • the demand; ft can also be mercerized, the gloss and dimensional stability of the mercerized fabric will be further improved, the mercerizing process and parameters are equivalent to the mercerizing process of conventional woven fabric.
  • the fabric achieves a specific width and weaving density.
  • the present invention is applicable to a special finishing process such as non-iron finishing, weight-increasing finishing, etc. in finishing.
  • the mercerizing of the yarn is mercerized before dyeing.
  • the mercerizing of the yarn is a mercerized silk, and the mercerizing process is performed to a neutral range.
  • the yarn types include pure cotton, cotton/linen, cotton/hemp, cotton
  • the yarn is subjected to singeing treatment before mercerizing, and after the singeing, the surface is required to be smooth and the hairiness residual rate is low.
  • the yarn is directly washed with water to neutral after mercerizing, or dyed to form a colored yarn for weaving of the fabric.
  • the mercerized yarn is used to replace the traditional cotton yarn, and the sizing and desizing process in the traditional process is deleted, which ensures the zero residue of the slurry on the fabric, and reduces the investment in the production chain and the workshop. Reduced water consumption and wastewater generation, reduced production costs and increased production efficiency.
  • the method of the invention can not only be processed by mercerized natural yarn, but also can be processed by mercerized dyed yarn, which expands the application range of the slurry-free woven fabric, and is beneficial to the promotion of the woven fabric.
  • the method of the invention can use cotton and cotton blended yarn as warp yarn to produce slurry-free woven fabric, including mercerized Cotton/linen, mercerized cotton/hemp, mercerized cotton/tencel, mercerized cotton/silk, mercerized cotton/tencel/silk.
  • the special process is used in the mercerizing process. After the singeing and mercerizing of the yarn, the surface is smooth, so the fabric does not need to be singeed.
  • the mercerizing can also be selectively processed according to the needs, shortening the processing of the pulp-free woven fabric. Process, saving costs and increasing productivity.
  • Figure 1 is a comparison of the yarn under an electron microscope after the normal mercerizing process and the mercerizing process of the present invention. detailed description
  • Example 1 The processing method of the warp-free woven fabric of 100S/2 mercerized cotton white yarn and weft yarn of 100 S/2 fine cotton is as follows:
  • Yarn singeing The 100S/2 yarn is singed on the yarn singeing machine.
  • the stability of the crater is 1000 °C, the speed is 900 m/min, the surface of the yarn is smooth after singeing, no yellow and white. Strong damage.
  • mercerizing the stranded yarn is mercerized on a yarn mercerizing machine, the concentration of the mercerized alkali liquor is 25 Baume, the tensile length is 3.5%, the reaction time is 4 minutes, the reaction temperature is 17 ° C , hot water wash temperature is 30 ° C.
  • the dyed yarn is dried to make the moisture content and dryness of the yarn consistent.
  • Woven weaving 100S/2 white mercerized cotton yarns are arranged according to the designed length, and the parallel yarns are wound on the warp beam or weaving shaft of the loom. The weft yarns are discharged in sequence using 100S/2 fine cotton yarn. Woven fabrics are woven according to a specific tissue structure.
  • Mercerized The mercerizing process of the lower fabric is carried out on a flat fabric mercerizing machine. The process is the same as the mercerizing process of conventional woven fabric.
  • Stereotype, pre-shrinking The process of setting and pre-shrinking is the same as the conventional woven fabric process.
  • the warp yarn is 100S/2 yarn is mercerized according to the conventional mercerizing process, and the yarn with the weft yarn of 100 S/2 fine cotton is processed according to the processes of sizing, weaving, desizing, singeing, mercerizing, shaping and pre-shrinking.
  • the indicators for comparing the products of the present invention with conventional products are shown in Figure 1 and Table 1, Table 2.
  • the kinetic value of the mercerized yarn of the present invention is higher than that of the normal mercerizing process, and the average increase is about 10%, which is mainly related to the special stretching and alkali immersion reaction time used in the present invention.
  • Table 2 Comparison of shrinkage ratio between fabric of the present invention and conventional process
  • Example 2 The processing method of the slurry-free woven fabric with the warp yarn of 80S/2 mercerized cotton/linen natural yarn and the weft yarn of 80 S/2 mercerized cotton is as follows:
  • Yarn singeing 80S/2 cotton/linen yarn is singed on the yarn singeing machine. After singeing, the surface of the yarn is smooth and clean, without yellowing and strong damage.
  • the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, and the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, and the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, and the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, and the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, and the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, and the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, the reaction temperature is 3. 5 minutes, the reaction temperature is At 19 ° C, the hot water wash temperature is 60 ° C.
  • Washing The yarn after the mercerizing machine is washed by hot water, pickled, and washed to neutral.
  • Drying The dyed yarn is dried in the drying room to make the moisture content and dryness of the yarn consistent.
  • B. Rewinding After drying, the yarn is rewinded into a tubular yarn of uniform weight and tightness.
  • Woven weaving 80S/2 cotton/linen mercerized cotton yarns are arranged according to the designed length, and the parallel yarns are wound on the warp beam or weaving shaft of the loom.
  • the weft yarns are 80S/2 mercerized cotton yarns in order. Emissions, woven into woven fabrics according to specific organizational structures.
  • Forming and pre-shrinking The process of setting and pre-shrinking is the same as the conventional woven fabric process.
  • the warp yarn is 80S/2 cotton/hemp yarn is mercerized according to the conventional mercerizing process, and the yarn of the weft 80S/2 mercerized cotton is processed according to the processes of sizing, weaving, desizing, singeing, mercerizing, shaping and pre-shrinking.
  • the indicators for comparing the products of the present invention with conventional products are shown in Tables 3 and 4. Table 3 Depreciation under two mercerizing processes
  • Example 3 The processing method of the slurry-free woven fabric with the warp yarn of 120S/2 mercerized cotton blue yarn and the weft yarn of 100 S/2 white cotton/tencel yarn is as follows: Yarn singeing: Cotton 120S/ 2 The yarn is singed on the yarn singeing machine. After singeing, the surface of the yarn is smooth and clean, without yellowing and strong damage.
  • Shake The tubular singe yarn is shaken on a shaker into a skein of 300 g per strand.
  • mercerized the stranded yarn is mercerized on a yarn mercerizing machine, the concentration of the mercerized lye is 32 waves, the elongation is 2.5%, the reaction time is 5 minutes, the reaction temperature is 22 ° C, The hot water wash temperature is 85 °C.
  • Dyeing The yarn after the mercerizing machine is washed by hot water, pickled, boiled and dyed into blue. 5. Drying: The dyed yarn is dried in the drying room to make the moisture content and dryness of the yarn consistent.
  • Woven weaving 120S/2 blue mercerized cotton yarns are arranged according to the length of the design, and the parallel yarns are wound on the warp beam or weaving shaft of the loom.
  • the weft yarn is made of 100S/2 cotton/tencel yarn. It is discharged in order and woven into a woven fabric according to a specific tissue structure.
  • Stereotype, pre-shrinking The process of setting and pre-shrinking is the same as the conventional woven fabric process.
  • the warp yarn is 120S/2 mercerized cotton blue yarn is mercerized according to the conventional mercerizing process, and the weft yarn is 100 S/2 white cotton/tencel yarn according to sizing, weaving, desizing, singeing, mercerizing, shaping and pre-forming.
  • the shrinking process is processed, and the indexes of the products of the present invention and conventional products are compared with Tables 5 and 6. Table 5 Depreciation under two mercerizing processes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

一种经纱采用烧毛、丝光、染色的丝光棉纱线代替传统的纯棉上浆织造的方法，采用的丝光工艺为碱液浓度25-35波美度，碱液温度17-23°C，热水洗温度30-65°C，拉伸长度为2.5%-3.5%，反应时间为3.5-5分钟，可以达到丝光更加充分、光泽更加亮丽、尺寸稳定性更加优良的效果，使面料在后整理过程中无需进行烧毛、丝光加工，缩短了加工流程，提高了生产效率和节省了生产设备的投入。

Description

一种丝光纱线、 免浆料梭织面料及其生产方法 技术领域 本发明涉及一种丝光纱线、梭织面料的生产方法， 具体地说是一种经纱为棉及其混纺 纱线的丝光本色或色纱的免浆料梭织面料及其加工方法。 背景技术 纱线在高速状态下穿过高温火口烧去表面多余绒毛的过程称为纱线烧毛，烧毛后的纱 线表面要求毛羽光洁、 均匀， 而且强力无明显损伤。 丝光是指纱线在强碱的作用下施以一 定的张力， 使之发生不可逆的溶胀， 丝光后纤维的内在排列结构发生永久性变化， 排列更 为整齐， 取向度趋于一致， 纤维的强力和光泽达到大幅度提升， 染色的得色深度得到较大 改善， 纱线的尺寸稳定性趋于平衡。 传统的梭织面料织造过程中， 由于综丝、 钢扣等机械 部件的摩擦阻力会造成纱线表面磨毛和强力损伤， 直接影响面料的织造效率和成品的强 力， 进而在织造之前必须经过复杂的上浆过程， 使纱线的表面毛羽趋于平伏， 增强纱线的 耐摩擦和承受拉伸强力的能力， 提高织造效率和品质， 但面料织造完成后需要进行酶退浆 处理， 去除面料上的浆料， 从而造成面料织造过程中人力、 物力的浪费和水资源的污染。 在梭织面料织造过程中上浆和退浆是影响织造效率和造成污水排放的主要源头， 专利
ZL200810194777. 0 "一种经纱为棉线的免桨料衬衫面料及其生产方法"中采用纱线丝光的 方法来提高纱线的强力， 使纱线不经过上浆就能满足梭织面料织造时的强力要求， 实现了 免浆织造， 同时缩短了加工工序、 减少了加工设备和厂房的投入， 避免了污水的排放。 但专利 ZL200810194777. 0 "—种经纱为棉线的免浆料衬衫面料及其生产方法" 中只 涉及丝光棉本色纱线在经纱为棉的梭织衬衫面料上的免浆织造，未涉及染色纱线以及含棉 混紡材料的免浆织造， 同时后整理中同样需要采用传统的烧毛、丝光、定型和预缩等工序， 适用范围有限。 发明内容 本发明涉及一种丝光纱线和免浆料梭织面料的加工方法， 其采用特殊丝光工艺， 不但 能够适用于纯棉纱线， 而且能够在含棉类的混纺纱线中使用， 包括棉 /亚麻、 棉 /汉麻、 棉 /绢丝和棉 /天丝， 同时采用染色使丝光纱线上色， 将免桨织造的范围延伸至色纱的范畴， 扩大了免浆织造的实用范围。 ώ于纱线在烧毛过程中光洁度和毛羽残留很低， 同时特殊的 丝光过程赋予纱线极佳的光泽度和完善的尺寸稳定性，在面料下机后可以不再进行烧毛和 丝光加工， 从而缩短了免浆梭织面料的后整理加工流程， 提高了生产效率。 按照本发明提供的设计方案， 一种特殊的纱线丝光方法， 将纱线进行丝光工艺处理， 其将绞状纱线在纱线丝光机上进行丝光处理， 丝光时的碱液浓度为 25〜35波美度， 碱液 的温度为 17〜23°C， 热水洗的温度为 30〜85°C， 拉伸长度为 2. 5 %〜3. 5 %， 反应时间为 3. 5〜5分钟。 进一歩地， 纱线种类包括纯棉、棉 /亚麻、棉 /汉麻、棉 /绢丝、棉 /天丝 /丝或棉 /天丝。 优选地， 纱线在丝光之前经烧毛处理， 烧毛后要求表面光洁、 毛羽残留率低。 优选地， 纱线经丝光后直接进行水洗至中性， 或者进行染色加工制成色纱供面料织造 使用。 优选地， 纱线染色前进行上述丝光工艺。 优选地， 纱线染色后进行上述丝光工艺再水洗至中性的范围。 经过烧毛加工的纱线， 在后整理过程中面料不再进行烧毛加工。 本发明还提供一种丝光纱线， ώ上述特殊的纱线丝光方法制造。 本发明还提供一种免浆料梭织面料，采用上述特殊的纱线丝光方法制造所得的丝光纱 线进行织造， 使得梭织面料在制造过程中无需上浆、 退浆工序， 且制造所得的免浆料梭织 面料在后整理中丝光工序为可选工序。 优选地， 一种免桨料梭织面料的加工方法按照如下歩骤实施：
1、 纱线烧毛： 将纱线经烧毛机烧去表面多余的毛羽， 表面要求光洁， 没有黄白现象。
2、 纱线摇纱： 将烧毛后的筒状纱线经摇纱机摇成特定重量的绞纱供后道的丝光和染 色工序使用。
3、 纱线丝光： 将绞状纱线在纱线丝光机上进行丝光处理， 丝光时的碱液浓度为 25〜 ： 波美度， 碱液的温度为 17〜23°C， 热水洗的温度为 30〜85°C， 拉伸长度为 2. 5%〜3. 5 % , 反应时间为 3. 5〜5分钟， 而常规的丝光拉伸为 1. 8%〜2. 1 %， 反应时间为 2〜3分 钟。 通常， 施加更大的张力使得棉纱线的光泽增加的并不多， 但断裂延伸度和吸附性 能会下降； 延长浸碱时间对增进丝光效果并不显著。 但本发明通过碱液浓度及温度、 热水洗温度配以高于常规丝光工艺的丝光的拉伸长度和浸碱时间，使得纱线在碱液中达到 11佳的溶胀状态， 同时赋予较大的拉伸能够达到更加的光泽度和尺寸稳定性， 更加有利于 后道的面料织造和后整理。
4、 纱线染色： 将丝光下机后的纱线经酸洗、 前处理后进行染色， 染色工艺同正常丝 ¾纱线染色的染色工艺。 染色后纱线的强力和毛羽没有明显的提高， 对后道的免浆料织造 ¾任何影响。 进一歩， 纱线丝光分为染色前丝光和染色后丝光， 本发明歩骤重点提及纱线染色前丝 光工艺， 但也适用于染色后纱线进行丝光再水洗至中性的范围。
5、 倒筒： 纱线经倒筒机将绞状纱线倒筒成恒定重量、 个数和松紧度的筒状纱线供后 道的梭织织造使用。
6、 梭织织造： 将丝光棉纱线、 丝光棉 /麻纱线、 丝光棉 /絹纱线、 丝光棉 /天丝 /丝或 丝光棉 /天丝纱线按照设计的长度排列成幅宽平行的纱卷绕于织机的经轴或织轴上， 纬纱 采用棉、 麻、 毛、 丝化纤或者丝光纱线， 按照特定的组织结构织成梭织面料。
7、 后整理：
( 1 ) ώ于丝光纱线能够承受梭织面料织造过程中的拉伸、 摩擦而不发生断裂和起毛 的现象， 所以在织造之前无需进行复杂的上浆过程， 面料上本身就不存在浆料的残留， 无 需进行退浆处理， 从而删除了常规梭织面料上在后整理中的退浆工序。 同样， 面料上也 ώ 于纱线在烧毛过程中毛羽被烧尽， 纱线表面毛羽残存率已经很低， 所织成的面料上基本没 ^多余的绒毛， 所以在后整理中无需进行烧毛处理。
( 2 ) 丝光： 在本发明中丝光是非必要的生产工序， 可以选择性进行， 是非必要性的 加工歩骤， 这是因为纱线经上述特殊的丝光工艺后的强力、光泽和尺寸稳定性均有大幅度 的提升，面料织造后的光泽和尺寸稳定性已经达到国标的要求，完全可以满足客户的需求; ft也可以进行丝光， 丝光后的面料光泽和尺寸稳定性会进一歩得到提升， 丝光的工艺和参 数等同于常规梭织面料的丝光工艺。
( 3)定型和预缩： 按照常规的梭织面料的加工工艺进行定型和预缩处理， 使面料达 到特定的门幅和织造密度。 进 歩， 本发明适用于后整理中采用免烫整理、 增重整理等特殊的后整理工序。 进一歩地， 免浆料梭织面料的生产方法中， 纱线丝光为染色前丝光。 优选地， 免浆料梭织面料的生产方法中， 纱线丝光为染色后丝光， 进行上述丝光工艺 ^水洗至中性的范围。 优选地， 免浆料梭织面料的生产方法中， 纱线种类包括纯棉、 棉 /亚麻、 棉 /汉麻、 棉
/絹丝、 棉 /天丝 /丝或棉 /天丝。 优选地， 免浆料梭织面料的生产方法中， 纱线在丝光之前经烧毛处理， 烧毛后要求表 面光洁、 毛羽残留率低。 优选地， 免浆料梭织面料的生产方法中， 纱线经丝光后直接进行水洗至中性， 或者进 行染色加工制成色纱供面料织造使用。 本发明具有以下优势或特点：
1、 在梭织织造过程中采用丝光纱线代替传统的棉纱线， 删除了传统工序中的上浆和 退浆工序， 保证了面料上浆料的零残留， 减少了生产环节资金和厂房的投入， 减少了水资 源的消耗和污水的产生， 降低了生产成本和提高了生产效率。
2、 本发明方法不但能够采用丝光本色纱线进行加工， 而且能够采用丝光染色纱线进 行加工， 扩大了免浆料梭织面料的应用范围， 有利于免桨梭织面料的进一歩推广。
3、 本发明方法可以采用棉及棉的混纺纱线作为经纱生产免浆料梭织面料， 包括丝光 棉 /亚麻、 丝光棉 /汉麻、 丝光棉 /天丝、 丝光棉 /绢丝、 丝光棉 /天丝 /丝。
4、 ώ于丝光工序采用特殊的工艺， 纱线经过烧毛和丝光后， 表面光洁， 所以面料无 需再进行烧毛， 丝光也可以根据需要进行选择性加工， 缩短了免浆梭织面料的加工流程， 节约了成本和提高了生产效率。
附图说明
图 1是纱线在正常丝光工艺和本发明丝光工艺后在电镜下的对比图。 具体实施方式
以下对本发明的优选实施例进行说明， 应当理解， 此处所描述的优选实施例仅用于说 明和解释本发明， 并不用于限定本发明。 实施例 1 经纱为 100S/2丝光棉白色纱线、 纬纱为 100 S/2精棉的免浆料梭织面料的加工方法 如下：
1、 纱线烧毛： 将 100S/2纱线在纱线烧毛机上进行烧毛加工， 火口的稳定为 1000°C， 车 速为 900米 /分钟， 烧毛后纱线表面光洁， 无黄白和强力损伤现象。
2、 摇纱： 将筒状烧毛纱在摇纱机上摇成每绞 550g的绞纱。
3、 丝光： 将绞状纱线在纱线丝光机上进行丝光处理， 丝光碱液的浓度为 25波美度， 拉伸 长度为 3. 5 %， 反应时间为 4分钟， 反应温度为 17°C， 热水洗温度为 30°C。
4、 染色： 将丝光下机后的纱线依次经过热水洗、 酸洗、 煮漂和染色， 使纱线上染白色。
5、 烘干： 染色后的纱线烘干， 使纱线的含湿量和干燥程度一致。
6、 倒筒： 烘干后纱线经倒筒成重量、 松紧度一致的筒状纱线。
7、 梭织织造：将 100S/2白色丝光棉纱线按照设计的长度排列成幅宽平行的纱卷绕于织机 的经轴或织轴上， 纬纱采用 100S/2精棉纱线按顺序排放， 按照特定的组织结构织成梭织 面料。 8、 丝光： 在平幅布铗丝光机上将下机面料进行丝光处理， 工艺同常规梭织面料的丝光工 艺。
9、 定型、 预缩： 定型和预缩的工艺同常规的梭织面料工艺。 将经纱为 100S/2纱线按照常规丝光工艺进行丝光， 并与纬纱为 100 S/2精棉的纱线按 照上浆、 织造、 退浆、 烧毛、 丝光、 定型和预缩的工艺进行加工， 比较本发明产品与常规 产品的指标见图 1和表 1、 表 2。 从两者电镜照片图可知， 正常丝光后的纤维截面 ώ于碱液的溶胀己经发生一定改变， 有原來的腰子形变成了椭圆形， 但还存在一定的中空胞腔， 没有完全消失， 而本发明中棉 纤维完全溶胀， 胞腔基本消失， 截面变成圆形， 丝光更加充分， 表面的镜面反射会更 ¾1充 分， 光泽度更高。
表 1 两种丝光工艺下的钡值
Figure imgf000007_0001
从表 1可知，本发明丝光后纱线钡值均高于正常丝光工艺的钡值，平均增加 10%左右， 这主要与本发明中采用的特殊的拉伸和浸碱反应时间有关系。 表 2 本发明和常规工艺面料缩水率比较
工艺 常规工艺织造 本发明免浆织造
1次 2. 8 2. 4 尺寸变化率 /%
2次 2. 7 2. 2
(缩水率）
3次 2. 8 2. 4 平均值 2. 77 2. 33 从表 2可知， 采用本发明的免浆梭织面料的尺寸稳定性由于常规工艺生产的梭织面料， 厲于一等品面料的范围， 而且加工工序很短， 节省水资源和设备的投入。 实施例 2 经纱为 80S/2丝光棉 /亚麻本色纱、 纬纱为 80 S/2丝光棉的免浆料梭织面料的加工方 法如下：
1、纱线烧毛：将 80S/2棉 /亚麻纱线在纱线烧毛机上进行烧毛加工，烧毛后纱线表面光洁， 无黄白和强力损伤现象。
2、 摇纱： 将筒状烧毛纱在摇纱机上摇成每绞 550g的绞纱。
:3、 丝光： 将绞状纱线在纱线丝光机上进行丝光处理， 丝光碱液的浓度为 30波美度， 拉伸 长度为 2. 8 %， 反应时间为 3. 5分钟， 反应温度为 19°C , 热水洗温度为 60°C。
4、 水洗： 将丝光下机后的纱线依次经过热水洗、 酸洗， 水洗至中性。
5、 烘干： 染色后的纱线经烘房烘干， 使纱线的含湿量和干燥程度一致。 B、 倒筒： 烘干后纱线经倒筒成重量、 松紧度一致的筒状纱线。
7、 梭织织造： 将 80S/2棉 /亚麻丝光棉纱线按照设计的长度排列成幅宽平行的纱卷绕于织 机的经轴或织轴上， 纬纱采用 80S/2丝光棉纱线按顺序排放， 按照特定的组织结构织成梭 织面料。
8、 定型、 预缩： 定型和预缩的工艺同常规的梭织面料工艺。 将经纱为 80S/2棉 /麻纱线按照常规丝光工艺进行丝光，并与纬纱 80S/2丝光棉的纱线 按照上浆、 织造、 退浆、 烧毛、 丝光、 定型和预缩的工艺进行加工， 比较本发明产品 与常规产品的指标见表 3和表 4。 表 3 两种丝光工艺下的钡值
项目 常规丝光工艺 本发明丝光工艺 第 1次 125 138 2
8
Figure imgf000009_0001
从表 3可知， 本发明丝光后纱线钡值完全高于常规丝光工艺的钡值， 丝光更加充分， 光泽度更高。 表 4本发明和常规工艺面料缩水率比较
Figure imgf000009_0002
从表 4可知， 采用本发明的免浆梭织面料的尺寸稳定性平均值为 2. 63 %， 属于面料一 等品的范围， 而常规工艺生产的面料不达标。 实施例 3 经纱为 120S/2丝光棉蓝色纱线、 纬纱为 100 S/2白色棉 /天丝纱线的免浆料梭织面料 的加工方法如下： 纱线烧毛： 将全棉 120S/2纱线在纱线烧毛机上进行烧毛加工， 烧毛后纱线表面光洁， 无黄白和强力损伤现象。
2、 摇纱： 将筒状烧毛纱在摇纱机上摇成每绞 300g的绞纱。 、 丝光： 将绞状纱线在纱线丝光机上进行丝光处理， 丝光碱液的浓度为 32波美度， 拉伸 度为 2. 5%， 反应时间为 5分钟， 反应温度为 22°C， 热水洗温度为 85°C。
4、 染色： 将丝光下机后的纱线依次经过热水洗、 酸洗、 煮漂和染色成蓝色。 5、 烘干： 染色后的纱线经烘房烘干， 使纱线的含湿量和干燥程度一致。
6, 倒筒： 烘千后纱线经倒筒成重量、 松紧度一致的筒状纱线。
7、 梭织织造： 将 120S/2蓝色丝光棉纱线按照设计的长度排列成幅宽平行的纱卷绕于织机 的经轴或织轴上， 纬纱采用 100S/2棉 /天丝纱线按顺序排放， 按照特定的组织结构织成梭 织面料。
9、 定型、 预缩： 定型和预縮的工艺同常规的梭织面料工艺。 将经纱为 120S/2丝光棉蓝色纱线按照常规丝光工艺进行丝光， 并与纬纱为 100 S/2白 色棉 /天丝纱线按照上浆、 织造、 退浆、 烧毛、 丝光、 定型和预缩的工艺进行加工， 比较 本发明产品与常规产品的指标见表 5和表 6。 表 5 两种丝光工艺下的钡值
Figure imgf000010_0001
从表 5可知， 由于丝光拉伸的程度增加和反应时间的延长保证了本发明丝光后纱线钡 值高于常规工艺， 也确保了后整理中免丝光的实施。 表 6 本发明和常规工艺面料缩水率比较
工艺 常规工艺织造 本发明免浆织造
1次 2. 6 2. 3 尺寸变化率 /%
2次 2. 8 2. 1
(缩水率）
3次 2. 8 2. 4 平均值 2. 73 2. 27 ώ于面料经纱丝光工艺的优化确保了后道面料的光泽和尺寸稳定性， 从而如表 6 所 小， 本发明的尺寸稳定性高于常规工艺的面料。 最后应说明的是： 以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而巳， 并不用于限制本发明， 尽 管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明， 对于本领域的技术人员来说， 其依然可以 对前述各实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改， 或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换。 凡 在本发明的精神和原则之内， 所作的任何修改、 等同替换、 改进等， 均应包含在本发明的 保护范围之内。

Claims

权 利 要 求 书
κ 一种纱线丝光方法， 将纱线进行丝光工艺处理， 其特征在于： 将绞状纱线在纱线 丝光机上进行丝光处理， 丝光时的碱液浓度为 25〜35波美度， 碱液的温度为 17〜23°C， 热水洗的温度为 30〜85°C， 拉伸长度为 2. 5 %〜3. 5 %， 反应时间为 3. 5〜5分钟。
2、 根据权利要求 1所述的一种纱线丝光方法， 其特征在于： 纱线种类包括纯棉、 棉 / 亚麻、 棉 /汉麻、 棉 /绢丝、 棉 /天丝 /丝或棉 /天丝。
3、 根据权利要求 1所述的一种纱线丝光方法， 其特征在于： 纱线在丝光之前经烧毛 处理， 烧毛后要求表面光洁、 毛羽残留率低。
4、 根据权利要求 1所述的一种纱线丝光方法， 其特征在于： 纱线经丝光后直接进行 水洗至中性， 或者进行染色加工制成色纱供面料织造使用。
5、 根据权利要求 1所述的一种纱线丝光方法， 其特征在于： 纱线染色前进行上述丝 光工艺。
6、 根据权利要求 1所述的一种纱线丝光方法， 其特征在于： 纱线染色后进行上述丝 光工艺再水洗至中性的范围。
7、 根据权利要求 1所述的一种纱线丝光方法， 其特征在于： 经过烧毛加工的纱线， 在后整理过程中面料不再进行烧毛加工。
8、 一种丝光纱线， 其特征在于， 采用了如权利要求 1-6之一所述的纱线丝光方法制 造。
9、 一种免浆料梭织面料， 其特征在于， 采用了如权利要求 1-6之一所述的纱线丝光 方法制造所得的丝光纱线进行织造， 使得梭织面料在制造过程中无需上浆、 退浆工序， 且 制造所得的免浆料梭织面料在后整理中丝光工序为可选工序。
10、 一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于包括歩骤- 纱线丝光： 将绞状纱线在纱线丝光机上进行丝光处理， 丝光时的碱液浓度为 25〜35 波美度， 碱液的温度为 17〜23'C， 热水洗的温度为 30〜85°C， 拉伸长度为 2. 5 %〜3. 5 %， 反应时间为 3. 5〜5分钟。
1 1、 根据权利要求 10所述的一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于： 在纱线 丝光之前还包括如下歩骤：
1 )、 纱线烧毛： 将纱线经烧毛机烧去表面多余的毛羽；
2 )、 纱线摇纱： 将烧毛后的筒状纱线经摇纱机摇成特定重量的绞纱供后道的丝光和染 色 序使用。
12、 根据权利要求 10或 11所述的一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于： 在 纱线丝光之后还包括如下歩骤：
1 )、 纱线染色： 将丝光下机后的纱线经酸洗、 前处理后进行染色；
2 )、 倒筒： 纱线经倒筒机将绞状纱线倒筒成恒定重量、 个数和松紧度的筒状纱线供后 道的梭织织造使用；
3 )、 梭织织造： 将丝光棉纱线、 丝光棉 /麻纱线、 丝光棉 /絹纱线、 丝光棉 /天丝 /丝或 丝光棉 /天丝纱线按照设计的长度排列成幅宽平行的纱卷绕于织机的经轴或织轴上， 纬纱 采用棉、 麻、 毛、 丝化纤或者丝光纱线， 按照特定的组织结构织成梭织面料；
4 )、 后整理： 后整理中无需进行常规烧毛处理， 丝光工序为可选工序， 按照常规的梭 织面料的加工工艺进行定型和预缩处理。
13、 根据权利要求 12所述的一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于： 纱线丝 光为染色前丝光。
14、 根据权利要求 12所述的一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于： 纱线丝 光为染色后丝光， 进行上述丝光工艺再水洗至中性的范围。
15、 根据权利要求 10所述的一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于： 纱线种 类包括纯棉、 棉 /亚麻、 棉 /汉麻、 棉 /绢丝、 棉 /天丝 /丝或棉 /天丝。
16、 根据权利要求 10所述的一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于： 纱线在 丝光之前经烧毛处理， 烧毛后要求表面光洁、 毛羽残留率低。
17、 根据权利要求 10所述的一种免浆料梭织面料的生产方法， 其特征在于： 纱线经 丝光后直接进行水洗至中性， 或者进行染色加工制成色纱供面料织造使用。
PCT/CN2012/000922 2012-07-04 2012-07-04 一种丝光纱线、免浆料梭织面料及其生产方法 WO2014005245A1 (zh)

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