WO2012029800A1 - 緯編地及びその製造方法と該緯編地を用いてなる衣料 - Google Patents

緯編地及びその製造方法と該緯編地を用いてなる衣料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012029800A1
WO2012029800A1 PCT/JP2011/069636 JP2011069636W WO2012029800A1 WO 2012029800 A1 WO2012029800 A1 WO 2012029800A1 JP 2011069636 W JP2011069636 W JP 2011069636W WO 2012029800 A1 WO2012029800 A1 WO 2012029800A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fiber yarn
knitted fabric
elastic fiber
yarn
weft knitted
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PCT/JP2011/069636
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English (en)
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
宏樹 野村
幸司 黒田
塚田　章一
Original Assignee
グンゼ株式会社
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Priority to JP2012531899A priority Critical patent/JP5627139B2/ja
Priority to CN2011800418604A priority patent/CN103080395A/zh
Publication of WO2012029800A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012029800A1/ja

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/16—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one other macromolecular compound obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/34—Core-skin structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/12—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyamide as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a thin and light weft knitted fabric having a high stretchability and a soft texture and less discomfort to the skin, a method for producing the same, and a garment using the weft knitted fabric.
  • knitted fabrics are more easily stretchable due to their fabric structure, and because of the ease of expansion and contraction associated with body movement, innerwear for general clothing; outerwear; sportswear; hosiery including pantyhose; It is often used for touching human skin, such as lining materials and interlining materials used for clothing materials, and upholstery materials used for industrial materials.
  • the coated elastic yarn is coated with polyamide filaments using polyurethane as the core yarn by utilizing the high stretchability of polyurethane-based elastic fiber yarns.
  • knitted fabrics There are an increasing number of cases where knitted fabrics are used.
  • polyurethane-coated elastic fiber yarns have high stretch properties, but when they are mixed, the knitted fabric tends to be thick and the texture tends to be hard due to the high stretch properties.
  • Patent Document 1 discloses a false twist-coated elastic yarn capable of giving a soft texture and soft fit.
  • a knitted fabric in which such a coated elastic yarn is used instead of a conventional polyurethane-based coated elastic fiber yarn is used, a yarn that forms a loop due to the presence of the coated fiber even if the elastic yarn fineness is reduced. Since the fabric itself becomes bulky, it is difficult to make the fabric sufficiently thin, which is unsatisfactory for the demand for a lighter and thinner fabric.
  • Stretch properties can also be obtained by mixing stretch materials typified by false twisted yarns of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and false twisted yarns of polybutylene terephthalate fiber, but the fiber material itself contributes to stretch properties. Since the molecular structure is different from that of polyurethane-based elastic fiber yarns, it could not be a substitute for polyurethane-based elastic fiber yarns regardless of whether they were stretchable or stretchable. In general, a knitted fabric obtained by mixing polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber yarns instead of polyurethane elastic fiber yarns has a problem that it is likely to become a knitted fabric having a harder texture.
  • the polyurethane bare yarn and the metal or ceramic surface constituting the yarn path in the knitting process that is, a yarn guide or a tension adjusting device, etc.
  • the elastic properties of the polyurethane elastic fiber yarn itself tend to cause tension fluctuations and yarn breakage that are difficult to control, making it difficult to increase the knitting speed.
  • problems in continuous operation stability and quality stability of the knitting process such as yarn winding around the drum of the tension adjusting device due to yarn breakage, and deterioration of the quality of the knitted fabric due to the occurrence of knitting steps. Further, if the knitting speed is extremely reduced to alleviate the problem, the manufacturing cost becomes very high and the knitting stage cannot be solved.
  • An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and to provide a thin and light weft knitted fabric having a high stretchability and a soft texture, a method for producing the same, and a garment using the weft knitted fabric. It is to be.
  • the present invention is a single weft knitted fabric knitted by mixing at least two kinds of yarns, and a core-sheath conjugate elastic in which a polyurethane-based elastomer is disposed in a core and a polyester-based polymer or a polyamide-based polymer is disposed in a sheath.
  • the yarn (B) is a weft knitted fabric that is knitted by being selectively guided to a knit position or a miss position for each needle in the knitting portion.
  • the knitting machine for knitting the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited, but a circular knitting machine capable of knitting a single circular knitted fabric is preferable, and in particular, a knitting needle to be operated according to the density pattern design of a predetermined knitted fabric.
  • a molding knitting machine that is, a garment length knitting machine, having a positive yarn feeding device capable of setting a stitch amount and tension based on a needle selection mechanism for selecting needles and a circumferential yarn length of a circular knitted fabric can be preferably exemplified.
  • the garment length knitting machine it is possible to limit the number of sewing parts of the knitted fabric to the minimum necessary number in the clothing product in order to produce the garment using the weft knitted fabric of the present invention. As a result, it is possible to obtain a comfortable garment with very little discomfort to the skin, taking full advantage of the high stretchability, soft texture, and thin and light characteristics that are the characteristics of the weft knitted fabric of the present invention. .
  • Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-197853 discloses a molded circular knitted fabric for pants that is knitted one by one by a cylindrical molding circular knitting machine. It can be understood that it can be constituted by a piece knitted fabric.
  • the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is knitted by feeding the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) to the same knitting course.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) are fed to the same knitting course in two knitting courses, that is, the elastic fiber yarn (A ) And the non-elastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is knitted by being selectively guided and controlled to the knit position or the miss position for each needle in the knitting portion. That is, the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is such that both of two types of yarn fed to the same knitting course are guided and controlled to the knit position for each needle in the knitting portion, or the elastic fiber
  • the yarn (A) is knitted by being guided and controlled at the knit position and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) at the miss position. Such guidance control is selectively performed.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is set to the knit position and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is set to the miss position for each needle.
  • a yarn carrier (yarn path) that guides to a knitting portion that is separated and guided to a certain position without bringing the two types of yarn together, and a needle selection mechanism
  • an advancing position control means by a combination of cam mechanisms the elastic fiber yarn (A) of the two types of yarn is placed on the knitting needle hook side (knit position), and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is A method of guiding to the back side (miss position) of the knitting needle hook can be adopted. As a result, only the inelastic fiber yarn (B) can be missed with a predetermined needle.
  • FIG. 1 is a pattern knitting pattern diagram of a single weft knitted fabric of the present invention schematically showing a knit or miss pattern of each yarn in each course and each needle.
  • Each of the courses 1 to 20 is supplied with an elastic fiber yarn (A) and an inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knitted in all needles.
  • Courses 2 and 3, Courses 8 to 13, and Courses 18 to 20 are the same as Course 1.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knit in the first and second needles, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knit.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knit.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • Courses 5-7 are the same as Course 4.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knitted at the first to third needles.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the 8th to 13th needles knit the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the 18th to 20th needles knit the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • Courses 15-17 are the same as Course 14.
  • the courses 1 to 20 can be repeatedly knitted as one repeat, or can be knitted with an appropriately large number of stitches.
  • a portion of the spliced yarn (plating) fabric of the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) is apparently formed by the elastic fiber yarn (A) 4 ⁇ 4.
  • the loop pattern is expressed as a regular pattern.
  • a weft knitted fabric having such a 4 ⁇ 4 loop pattern portion has a high stretch property and a soft texture, and becomes a thin and light weft knitted fabric.
  • the size of a 4 ⁇ 4 loop, the shape of a substantially rectangular pattern, and the number of float yarns per pattern portion shown in the specific example are illustrated as examples for helping the understanding of the invention.
  • the present invention is not limited to this.
  • the size of the pattern and the shape of the pattern can be freely set.
  • FIG. 2 is a pattern knitting pattern diagram of a single weft knitted fabric of the present invention schematically showing a knit or miss pattern of each yarn in each course and each needle.
  • Each of the courses 1 to 20 is supplied with an elastic fiber yarn (A) and an inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knitted in all needles.
  • Courses 2 and 3, Courses 8 to 13, and Courses 18 to 20 are the same as Course 1.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knit in the first and second needles, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knit.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knit.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • Courses 5-7 are the same as Course 4.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knitted at the first to third needles.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the 8th to 13th needles knit the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is missed.
  • the 18th to 20th needles knit the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • Courses 15-17 are the same as Course 14.
  • the courses 1 to 20 can be repeatedly knitted as one repeat, or can be knitted with an appropriately large number of stitches.
  • the spliced yarn (plating) fabric of the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) is apparently formed by the elastic fiber yarn (A) 4 ⁇ 4.
  • the loop pattern is expressed as a regular pattern.
  • the 4 ⁇ 4 loop pattern portion originally has four non-elastic fiber yarns (B) as float yarns on one side of the fabric, but the knitted fabric does not leave any float yarns by cutting them off.
  • a weft knitted fabric having such a 4 ⁇ 4 loop pattern portion has a high stretch property and a soft texture, and becomes a thin and light weft knitted fabric.
  • the size of a 4 ⁇ 4 loop, the shape of a substantially rectangular pattern, and the number of float yarns per pattern portion shown in the specific example are illustrated as examples for helping the understanding of the invention.
  • the present invention is not limited to this.
  • the size of the pattern and the shape of the pattern can be freely set.
  • a circular cutter is incorporated in the transfer dial installed on the upper part of the cylinder of the circular knitting machine, and the circular cutter can rotate in synchronization with the cylinder by driving the dial shaft.
  • the float yarn is cut by suction after interaction with the circular cutter.
  • the present invention is not limited to this, and other known yarn cutting and removing means that can remove the float yarn can be used.
  • the weft knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a watermark pattern such as a pattern knitted by the pattern knitting pattern shown in FIG. That is, the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is a single weft knitted fabric in which a watermark pattern is expressed, wherein the elastic fiber yarn (A) is knitted in all needles as a ground yarn, and the inelastic fiber yarn ( It is preferable that B) is partially misorganized or partially misorganized and excised.
  • a weft knitted fabric having such a watermark pattern has a high stretchability and a soft texture, and becomes a thin and light weft knitted fabric.
  • the size of the pattern and the shape of the pattern can be freely set, but the ratio of the inelastic fiber yarn (B) that is guided and controlled to the miss position among all the needles is 1 to 50%. It is preferable that If the ratio of guide control to the miss position is less than 1%, the ratio of the watermark part of the weft knitted fabric decreases, the stretchability becomes worse, the texture becomes harder, and it becomes more three-dimensional and thicker. Sometimes. When the ratio of guidance control to the miss position exceeds 50%, the ratio of the watermark portion of the weft knitted fabric increases, the fabric strength is insufficient, and fabric tear may occur due to repeated wearing.
  • FIG. 3 is a pattern knitting pattern diagram of a single weft knitted fabric schematically showing a knit or miss pattern of each yarn in each course and each needle.
  • Each of the courses 1 to 20 is supplied with an elastic fiber yarn (A) and an inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knitted in all needles.
  • Courses 2 and 3, Courses 8 to 13, and Courses 18 to 20 are the same as Course 1.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is missed at the first and second needles, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is knitted.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knit.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is missed, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is knitted.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knit.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is missed, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is knit.
  • Courses 5-7 are the same as Course 4.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) are knitted at the first to third needles.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is missed, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is knitted.
  • the 8th to 13th needles knit the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is missed, and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is knit.
  • the 18th to 20th needles knit the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • Courses 15-17 are the same as Course 14.
  • the courses 1 to 20 can be repeatedly knitted as one repeat, or can be knitted with an appropriately large number of stitches.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) are formed by the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) in the portion of the spliced yarn (plating knitted) fabric.
  • a 4 ⁇ 4 loop pattern is expressed as a regular pattern.
  • the pattern expressed by the knitted fabric obtained in FIGS. 1 and 2 is different, and the knitted fabric becomes more three-dimensional and thick.
  • the core component of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is a polyurethane elastomer.
  • the weft knitted fabric of the present invention has high stretchability and soft texture, and is thin. A light weft knitted fabric.
  • the polyurethane elastomers are thermoplastic and thermosetting due to their heating characteristics and molecular structure; so-called adipate polyurethanes such as polyester polyurethanes and polyether ester polyurethanes; polyether polyurethanes, polycaprolactone polyurethanes, polycarbonates Although it can classify
  • thermoplastic polyurethane-based elastomers are preferable.
  • adipate-based polyurethane has high heat resistance, and the heating process temperature when producing a core-sheath conjugate structure, for example, melt spinning temperature, drying temperature after coating, etc. Further, it is more preferable in that the inherent stretchability and stretch recovery property of polyurethane are less likely to deteriorate even when subjected to a thermal history of the curing temperature.
  • polyurethane elastomers examples include Kuramyron U 3195 and 8175 (manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd.), Milactolan P485 and P495 (manufactured by Nippon Polyurethane Co., Ltd.), Pandex T-1185N, 1190N, 1195N, 1495N and the like ( An example is DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd.).
  • the 1/2 method melting temperature (T1 / 2) of the core component of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is preferably 200 to 240 ° C.
  • the 1/2 method melting temperature is less than 200 ° C., the yarn strength may be lowered, or the fabric strength of the weft knitted fabric may be lowered.
  • the 1/2 method melting temperature exceeds 240 ° C., it is difficult to match the extrusion molding temperature with the sheath component and the yarn may not be formed.
  • a more preferable lower limit of the 1/2 method melting temperature is 210 ° C., and a more preferable upper limit is 230 ° C.
  • the 1/2 method melting temperature (T1 / 2) can be measured by a constant load extrusion type capillary rheometer (flow tester).
  • FIG. 4 schematically shows a flow curve obtained by measurement with a flow tester, with the horizontal axis representing temperature and the vertical axis representing piston stroke.
  • This 1/2 method melting temperature is conventionally used in many fields as a standard for evaluating the melting characteristics of a sample by a temperature rising method using a flow tester.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) has a core cross-sectional area ratio of preferably 30 to 95%, and particularly 80 to 95%, whereby the stretchability and stretch recovery of the polyurethane-based elastomer as the core component can be improved. Since it is more effectively demonstrated as the stretch property of (A), it is especially preferable.
  • the sheath component of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is a polyester polymer or a polyamide polymer.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is excellent in the lubricity of the yarn because the sheath component, which is a polyester polymer or polyamide polymer, covers the polyurethane elastomer as the core component.
  • the frictional resistance between the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the yarn path in the knitting process, that is, the metal or ceramic surface constituting the yarn guide or tension adjusting device is reduced, and tension fluctuation and yarn breakage that are difficult to control are reduced. It is hard to occur and it becomes easy to increase the knitting speed.
  • the thin and light weft knitted fabric of the present invention having high stretchability and soft texture can be knitted stably at low cost.
  • the polyester-based polymer can be used basically if the core component can be coated and molded by operations such as melt compound spinning and coating.
  • Preferred examples of the polyethylene naphthalate, polylactic acid, and polyether ester copolymer polymers include polyether ester random copolymer polymers and polyether ester block copolymer polymers.
  • the polyamide-based polymer can be used as long as it can be coated and formed on the core component by operations such as melt compound spinning and coating.
  • polyester-based polymer, polyamide 6, polyamide 66, polyamide 12, polyamide 11, Preferred examples include aliphatic polyamide-based polymers such as polyether amide and polyether ester amide copolymer polymer.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) can be made into a yarn that is not dyed by atmospheric pressure dyeing.
  • a yarn mainly composed of fibers can be employed.
  • a fine pattern can be expressed by the color difference between the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) and the respective thread use parts, and the fashionability and functionality are improved by the dyeing process using normal pressure dyeing. Can be made.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) can be made into a yarn that can be dyed with an acid dye
  • the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) for example, Threads mainly composed of cotton or polyester polymer fibers that are not dyed by acid dyes can be used.
  • a more preferable sheath component is the above-described polyester-based polymer.
  • the polyester-based polymer for example, an aliphatic polyamide-based polymer frequently used as a stretch knitted fabric material can be employed as the main component of the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) containing polyurethane elastomer in the core is less contaminated and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) having high fastness can be dyed. Pattern expression by expression is possible.
  • the most preferable sheath component is a polyether ester copolymer polymer among the above polyester-based polymers.
  • the meaning of dyeing with a certain dyeing method means that the acid dye can dye wool, silk, and aliphatic polyamide polymer fibers well, and it is difficult to dye cotton and polyester polymer fibers. It can be understood by dyeing and dyeing conditions and suitability for dyeing by combining with fiber materials, such as technical common sense that dyes can dye polyester polymer fibers well and it is difficult to dye aliphatic polyamide polymer fibers. it can.
  • the surface hardness D (ASTM D2240) of the sheath component of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is preferably about D50 to 70, and more preferably D50 to 60. Since the surface hardness becomes soft when it is less than D50, the frictional resistance between the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the yarn path in the knitting process, that is, the metal or ceramic surface constituting the yarn guide or the tension adjusting device, tends to increase. Tension fluctuations and yarn breakage that are difficult to control are likely to occur, and it becomes difficult to increase the knitting speed. In addition, there is a tendency that the yarn is wound around the drum of the tension adjusting device due to yarn breakage, and the quality of the knitted fabric is degraded due to the occurrence of the knitting step.
  • the touch tends to worsen. This is presumably because the contact area is likely to be easily deformed due to the soft sheath component and the contact area tends to be large. Moreover, when D70 is exceeded, there exists a tendency for stretch property to worsen.
  • the 1/2 method melting temperature of the sheath component of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is preferably 180 to 240 ° C.
  • the 1/2 method melting temperature is less than 180 ° C.
  • the weft knitted fabric may be uncomfortable.
  • the 1/2 method melting temperature exceeds 240 ° C., it is difficult to match the extrusion molding temperature with the core component and the yarn may not be formed.
  • a more preferable lower limit of the 1/2 method melting temperature is 190 ° C, and a more preferable upper limit is 220 ° C.
  • the sheath of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is preferably completely covered with the core so that the core component is not exposed on the surface in terms of the lubricity of the yarn and the stain resistance in the dyeing process. There is no problem in exposing in the range where there is no problem.
  • the core-sheath conjugate structure means a structure in which a resin of another component is coated around a resin of a certain component when a cross section of one filament is viewed.
  • false twist coating means a structure in which other fibers are wound around a certain fiber while being twisted and reversed, and is distinguished from a core-sheath conjugate structure.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) may have a circular cross section or an irregular cross section, but preferably has a circular cross section.
  • the stretch property of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is maximized by having a circular cross section.
  • the circular cross section is the shape with the most excellent lubricity of the yarn itself, the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the yarn path in the knitting process, that is, the metal or ceramic surface constituting the yarn guide or tension adjusting device, The frictional resistance is reduced, it is difficult to control tension fluctuation and yarn breakage, and the knitting speed is easy to increase.
  • the core is eccentric or not, and is not particularly limited.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) has a concentric circular cross section.
  • the tensile strength specified in JIS L1013 is preferably 1.2 to 2.2 cN / dtex, the elongation is 300 to 570%, and the stress at 80% elongation is 0.1. It is preferably set to 0.5 cN / dtex. More preferably, the tensile strength is 1.8 to 2.2 cN / dtex, the elongation is 400 to 500%, and the 80% elongation stress is preferably 0.2 to 0.4 cN / dtex.
  • stretchability and stretch recovery properties it is possible to obtain an elastic fiber yarn suitable for obtaining a stretch fabric with a soft texture that is more stretchable and a moderate power feeling that is not cramped.
  • These stretchability and stretch recovery properties are mainly based on the core polyurethane elastomer, but the tensile strength is specifically high, a level not found in general polyurethane elastic fiber yarns. is there.
  • the compatibility between the specifically high tensile strength and the moderate elongation with a feeling of elongation and power can be realized by combining the core component and the sheath component described above.
  • the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn (A) is not limited, but is preferably 20 to 150 dtex, more preferably 30 to 100 dtex.
  • a particularly preferred fineness range is 35 to 65 dtex, which makes it easy to obtain a strength that prevents yarn breakage in the knitting process and the use stage of the knitted fabric, and to achieve soft stretchability.
  • the elastic fiber (A) is preferably a monofilament because the weft knitted fabric is easily thinned and air permeability is improved.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) is not limited as to whether or not it contains a known filler and additive for both the core component and the sheath component.
  • Examples of such elastic fiber yarns (A) that are commercially available include Sideria (registered trademark) manufactured by KB Seiren Co., Ltd. as a fiber in which a polyurethane elastomer is arranged in the core and an aliphatic polyamide polymer is arranged in the sheath. it can. Further, a core-sheath conjugate fiber in which a polyurethane elastomer is disposed in the core disclosed in JP-A-2008-231606 and a polytrimethylene terephthalate is disposed in the sheath, and a polyurethane-based core is disclosed in JP-A-2007-77556. Examples thereof include a core-sheath conjugate fiber in which a polyester-based polymer is arranged on an elastomer and a sheath.
  • the inelastic fiber yarn (B) includes natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra and polynosic, semi-regenerated fibers such as acetate, aliphatic polyamide, polyester, acrylic, nylon 6, etc.
  • Arbitrary yarns such as filament yarns such as chemically synthetic fibers such as nylon, staple yarns and staple blended yarns can be used.
  • the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn (B) is preferably 20 to 150 dtex, more preferably 50 to 120 dtex, and particularly preferably 60 to 100 dtex. These inelastic fiber yarns (B) can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
  • the weft knitted fabric of the present invention has a high stretch property and a soft texture, and is a thin and light weft knitted fabric.
  • the weft knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a fabric thickness of 0.3 to 1.0 mm. When the fabric thickness is less than 0.3 mm, the fabric strength is insufficient, and the fabric may be broken by repeated wearing. When the fabric thickness exceeds 1.0 mm, the fabric becomes more three-dimensional and thick, and the performance required for the stretch knitted fabric may not be sufficiently satisfied.
  • a more preferable lower limit of the fabric thickness is 0.5 mm, and a more preferable upper limit is 0.9 mm.
  • the weft knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has an air permeability of 100 cc / cm 2 / sec or more measured by a method based on the JIS L 1096 A method (Fragile method).
  • the air permeability is less than 100 cc / cm 2 / sec, uncomfortable feeling such as stuffiness may easily occur during wearing.
  • a more preferable lower limit of the air permeability is 200 cc / cm 2 / sec.
  • a known dyeing method can be adopted as the method for dyeing the weft knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the dye is selected according to the yarn material as described above when setting the dyeing method and conditions.
  • Clothing using the weft knitted fabric and the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is innerwear for general clothing; outerwear; sportswear; socks including pantyhose; linings and interlinings for clothing materials; It can be widely used for chair upholstery materials.
  • the clothing using the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is also one aspect of the present invention.
  • a weft knitted fabric including a step of knitting a weft knitted fabric by feeding the course and selectively guiding and controlling the inelastic fiber yarn (B) to a knit position or a miss position for each needle in the knitting portion This manufacturing method is also one aspect of the present invention.
  • the method for producing a weft knitted fabric of the present invention further comprises (2) a dyeing method in which the weft knitted fabric knitted in step (1) is not dyed with the elastic fiber yarn (A), and the non-elastic fiber yarn ( A step of dyeing may be included by a dyeing method for dyeing B).
  • a step of dyeing may be included by a dyeing method for dyeing B).
  • the dye is selected according to the yarn material as described above when setting the dyeing method and conditions.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) can be made into a yarn that is not dyed by atmospheric pressure dyeing, and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B)
  • the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) For example, it is possible to employ yarns composed mainly of polyamide fibers that can be dyed at normal pressure.
  • the step (2) it is possible to express a fine pattern by the color difference between the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) and the respective thread use portions.
  • the present invention it is possible to provide a thin and light weft knitted fabric having a high stretchability and a soft texture, a method for producing the same, and a garment using the weft knitted fabric.
  • Example 1 Manufacture of elastic fiber yarn (A)
  • Pandex T-1495 adipate-based polyurethane, surface hardness A95 (JIS K6253), 1/2 method melting temperature 222 ° C.
  • Perprene P-90B polyetherester manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) has a tensile strength of 2.2 cN / dtex, an elongation rate of 400%, and an 80% elongation stress of 13 cN (0.26 cN / dtex), which is as high as a polyurethane elastic fiber yarn. However, it was very powerful.
  • Non-elastic fiber yarn (B) A 90 dtex nylon 6 / cupra composite fiber yarn was used as the inelastic fiber yarn (B).
  • the needle selection mechanism for selecting the knitting needle to be operated and the peripheral yarn length of the circular knitted fabric according to the density pattern design of a predetermined knitted fabric
  • a cylindrical circular knitting machine having a hook diameter of 14 inches and a needle number of 1152 was used as a garment length knitting machine equipped with a positive yarn feeder capable of setting the stitch amount and tension as a reference, and a cylindrical circular knitted fabric was knitted.
  • the pattern knitting pattern is based on FIG.
  • a knitted fabric was produced by a plating knitting method in which the elastic fiber yarn (A) and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) were knitted with each needle, except for mis-knitting.
  • the fabric thickness of the knitted fabric (JIS L 1096) was as very thin as 0.66 mm.
  • the air permeability of the knitted fabric was 240 cc / cm 2 / sec.
  • a cylindrical circular knitted fabric for pants in which the front body and the back body are configured by one piece knitted fabric with the pattern knitting pattern of FIG. Manufactured.
  • Pants were manufactured by sewing a fabric obtained by cutting this knitted fabric and a separately manufactured crotch fabric cut fabric.
  • the pants are oil-removed by a scouring process in a conventional manner, and at the dyeing process at 95 ° C. with a dyeing agent containing acid dyes NYLOSAN YELLOW 0.006 g / L, NYLOSAN RED 0.072 g / L, and NYLOSAN BLUE 0.117 g / L as main ingredients.
  • the elastic fiber yarn (A) portion of the pants is colorless and transparent without being dyed by the acid dye, and the vivid color of the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) (nylon 6 / cupra composite fiber yarn), which is the ground yarn, is dyed.
  • the watermark pattern was expressed by contrast with light blue.
  • Example 2 Pandex T-1190 (adipate polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 218 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. is used as the core, and Perprene P-90B (polyether ester copolymer polymer, TiO 2 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd. is used as the sheath.
  • Concentric circular cross-section core-sheath conjugate fibers having a surface hardness of D52 (ASTM D2240) and a 1/2 method melting temperature of 217 ° C. containing 1% by weight were produced by melt spinning.
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 90%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A) which was a 40 dtex monofilament was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 3 Pandex T-1195 (adipate-based polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 224 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. in the core, and perprene P-150B (polyether ester copolymer polymer, surface hardness D57 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) in the sheath.
  • extrusion was carried out by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 80%, to obtain an elastic fiber yarn (A) which is a 65 dtex monofilament.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 4 DIC Bayer Polymer Pandex T-1495 (adipate polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 222 ° C.) on the core, Hytrel 5577 (polyester polymer, surface hardness D53 (ASTM D2240) manufactured by Toray DuPont, A concentric circular cross-section core-sheath conjugate fiber having a 1/2 method melting temperature (213 ° C.) was produced by melt spinning. At this time, the melt polymer flow rate was adjusted so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 70%, and extrusion molding was performed to obtain an elastic fiber yarn (A) that is a 50 dtex monofilament. A knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 5 Pandex T-1190 (adipate-based polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 218 ° C.) in the core of DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd.
  • Perprene P-90B polyether ester copolymer polymer, surface hardness D52 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.
  • ASTM D2240 concentric circular cross-section core-sheath conjugate fiber
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 50%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A), which was a 50 dtex monofilament, was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 6 Pandex T-1190 (adipate type polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 224 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. in the core, and perprene P-70B (polyether ester copolymer polymer manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., surface hardness D46) in the sheath
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 90%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A) that was a monofilament of 50 dtex was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 7 Pandex T-1185 (adipate polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 214 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. in the core, and Perprene P-90B (polyether ester copolymer polymer, surface hardness D52 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) in the sheath.
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 80%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A) which was a 100 dtex monofilament was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 8 Pandex T-1195 (adipate polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 214 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. is used as the core, and Perprene P-150B (polyether ester copolymer polymer, surface hardness D57 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd. is used as the sheath.
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 40%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A) that was a monofilament of 50 dtex was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 9 Pandex T-1195 (adipate polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 224 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. in the core, and Perprene P-90B (polyether ester copolymer polymer, surface hardness D52 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) in the sheath.
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 80%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A), which was a 30 dtex monofilament, was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 10 Pandex T-1185 (adipate type polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 224 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. in the core, and perprene P-70B (polyether ester copolymer polymer, surface hardness D46 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) in the sheath.
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 80%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A) that was a 120 dtex monofilament was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used.
  • Example 11 Pandex T-1495 (adipate polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 222 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd. in the core, and Perprene P-90B (polyether ester copolymer polymer, surface hardness D52 manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd.) in the sheath.
  • extrusion was performed by adjusting the flow rate of the molten polymer so that the cross-sectional area ratio of the core was 90%, and an elastic fiber yarn (A) that was a monofilament of 50 dtex was obtained.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) was changed as shown in Table 1.
  • Example 12 Pandex T-1195 (adipate polyurethane, 1/2 method melting temperature 224 ° C.) manufactured by DIC Bayer Polymer Co., Ltd., and Pevacs 6333SA01 (polyamide polymer, surface hardness D63 (ASTM D2240) manufactured by Arkema Co., Ltd.
  • a knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the obtained elastic fiber yarn (A) was used and the inelastic fiber yarn (B) was changed as shown in Table 1.
  • Comparative Example 1 44 dtex polyurethane elastic fiber yarn (Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., Roika (registered trademark)) around a total draft of 2.6 times and a set temperature of 175 degrees, 33 dtex of nylon 6 multifilament yarn was false twist coated, A false twist-coated elastic yarn having a fineness of about 50 dtex (polyurethane elastic fiber yarn fineness of about 17 dtex + nylon 6 multifilament yarn fineness of about 33 dtex) was obtained. The 80% elongation stress of the false twist-coated elastic yarn was 26 cN (0.52 cN / dtex).
  • a knitted fabric was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist-coated elastic yarn was used instead of the elastic fiber yarn (A).
  • the fabric thickness of the knitted fabric (JIS L 1096) was 0.80 mm.
  • the air permeability of the knitted fabric (based on JIS L 1096 A method (Fragile method)) was 78 cc / cm 2 / sec.
  • the pants were manufactured on the same conditions as Example 1 except using said false twist covering elastic yarn instead of an elastic fiber yarn (A).
  • the pants are dyed with an acid dye on the false twist covered elastic yarn and have a bright light blue color, and the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) that is the ground yarn is also dyed to give a bright light blue color. It looked like a light blue solid knitted fabric.
  • Example 2 An attempt was made to produce a knitted fabric under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that 44 dtex polyurethane bare yarn (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., Leuka (registered trademark)) was used instead of the elastic fiber yarn (A).
  • 44 dtex polyurethane bare yarn manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., Leuka (registered trademark)
  • the knitted fabric piece can be obtained by reducing the yarn breakage frequency at a production speed of 1/10 while gradually reducing the production speed so as to alleviate the situation of the yarn breakage.
  • the obtained knitted fabric was not only knitted but also heavy and hard, and when it was brought into contact with the skin and looked at its feel, it was sticky.
  • Example 3 A knitted fabric and pants were produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that only the elastic fiber yarn (A) was used (no non-elastic fiber yarn (B) was used). Since the pants were knitted with one kind of material, there was no pattern by dyeing.
  • Example 4 A knitted fabric and pants were manufactured under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that only the non-elastic fiber yarn (B) was used (the elastic fiber yarn (A) was not used). Since the pants were knitted with one kind of material, there was no pattern by dyeing.
  • Clothing using the weft knitted fabric and the weft knitted fabric of the present invention is innerwear for general clothing; outerwear; sportswear; socks including pantyhose; linings and interlinings for clothing materials; It can be widely used for chair upholstery materials.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
  • Socks And Pantyhose (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
PCT/JP2011/069636 2010-08-31 2011-08-30 緯編地及びその製造方法と該緯編地を用いてなる衣料 WO2012029800A1 (ja)

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JP2020050992A (ja) * 2018-09-27 2020-04-02 ユニチカ株式会社 複合型モノフィラメント
JP7312522B1 (ja) * 2023-02-01 2023-07-21 無錫朗寧紡織科技有限公司 無スパンデックス高弾性編み物網目生地及び服装

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JP5905506B2 (ja) * 2014-04-17 2016-04-20 メディ・ゲーエムベーハー・アンド・コンパニー・カーゲーＭｅｄｉ Ｇｍｂｈ ＆ Ｃｏ． Ｋｇ 関節で繋がった肢を固定するための圧迫丸編地
CN106702581A (zh) * 2015-07-21 2017-05-24 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种功能性针织面料
CN104947467B (zh) * 2015-07-27 2017-01-18 南通德贝尔工贸有限公司 一种轻薄尼龙机织面料染整工艺
CN115341329A (zh) 2018-08-28 2022-11-15 旭化成株式会社 纬编针织物
CN109487389A (zh) * 2018-10-31 2019-03-19 华祥（中国）高纤有限公司 一种双层高缩蓬松立体纤维面料及其生产工艺
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