WO2011158864A1 - レチノール修飾コラーゲン、その製造方法およびそれを含む皮膚外用組成物 - Google Patents
レチノール修飾コラーゲン、その製造方法およびそれを含む皮膚外用組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2011158864A1 WO2011158864A1 PCT/JP2011/063704 JP2011063704W WO2011158864A1 WO 2011158864 A1 WO2011158864 A1 WO 2011158864A1 JP 2011063704 W JP2011063704 W JP 2011063704W WO 2011158864 A1 WO2011158864 A1 WO 2011158864A1
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- Prior art keywords
- retinol
- acid
- collagen
- modified collagen
- formula
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07K—PEPTIDES
- C07K1/00—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length
- C07K1/107—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides
- C07K1/1072—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides by covalent attachment of residues or functional groups
- C07K1/1077—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides by covalent attachment of residues or functional groups by covalent attachment of residues other than amino acids or peptide residues, e.g. sugars, polyols, fatty acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
Definitions
- the present invention is a retinol-modified collagen that exhibits an excellent anti-aging effect when applied to the skin. More specifically, the retinol-modified collagen is low in toxicity to cells and is excellent in safety without causing itching and the like, and a hyaluronic acid synthase gene Retinol-modified collagen, which can exhibit excellent wrinkle formation prevention effect, wrinkle improvement effect, skin beautifying effect and skin quality improving effect by increasing the expression of hyaluronic acid by increasing the expression of for a long time and enhancing the synthesis of collagen, The present invention relates to a method for producing the same, and a composition for external use on the skin and a sheet-like cosmetic containing the same.
- Wrinkles increase on the skin as the skin ages.
- the wrinkles are thinly placed under the eyes, appearing as fine folds perpendicular to the direction of facial muscles such as the corners of the eyes and the forehead, from wrinkles at the epidermis level (epidermal wrinkles).
- wrinkles of the level skin wrinkles
- wrinkles senile wrinkles
- collagen or a derivative thereof is a fibrous protein found in all multicellular organisms, and is blended in various cosmetics for the purpose of preventing skin aging.
- conventional collagen and collagen derivatives have a problem that satisfactory and excellent skin aging prevention effects cannot be obtained.
- Patent Document 1 An invention relating to a polypeptide having a collagen-like structure
- retinol and its derivatives are a kind of vitamin known to be involved in the maintenance of vital functions such as vision and the regeneration function of normal epithelial tissues such as skin and mucous membranes. It is known as a topical medicine for skin diseases with abnormal keratinization, etc., and retinol derivatives are known to maintain the activity of epithelial tissues and inhibit skin aging by blocking the signal transmission of ultraviolet light It is widely used as a cosmetic for preventing skin aging.
- retinol has been reported to be cytotoxic, and the anti-skin aging effect of retinol derivatives could not be sustained for a long period of time, making it impossible to prevent and improve the multifaceted formation of wrinkles.
- Development of a retinol derivative and development of an active ingredient replacing retinol or a derivative thereof have been desired.
- the object of the present invention is to maintain the safety, wrinkle formation prevention effect, wrinkle improvement effect, beautiful skin effect and skin quality improvement effect over a long period of time, which is superior to conventional retinol and retinol derivatives.
- An object of the present invention is to provide a compound capable of preventing and improving the formation of a substance, a method for producing the same, and a composition for external use for skin and a sheet-form cosmetic containing the compound as an active ingredient.
- the present inventor has a low cytotoxicity of a substance obtained by binding retinol to a polypeptide (fibrous aggregate) obtained by condensing a peptide unit having a specific amino acid sequence, It has been found that the production of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis can be increased without producing inflammatory cytokines, and the synthesis of collagen in the dermis can be promoted to exert such excellent effects, thereby completing the present invention.
- the present invention [1] A retinol-modified collagen in which a dicarboxylic acid is bound to at least one hydroxyl group in collagen, and retinol is bound to a carboxyl group of the bound at least one dicarboxylic acid; [2]
- the collagen is natural collagen or formula (1): -(A1-A2-Gly)-(1) (In the formula, Gly represents glycine, and A1 and A2 represent glycine, proline (Pro) or hydroxyproline (Hyp), provided that at least one of A1 and A2 is Hyp) Collagen, gelatin containing a peptide unit represented by formula (1), or a hydrolyzate of natural collagen and one or more selected from the group consisting of a hydrolyzate of collagen containing a peptide unit represented by formula (1) [1] Retinol-modified collagen according to [1]; [3]
- the dicarboxylic acid is selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succin
- the collagen is natural collagen or formula (1): -A1-A2-Gly- (1) (In the formula, Gly represents glycine, and A1 and A2 represent glycine, proline (Pro) or hydroxyproline (Hyp), provided that at least one of A1 and A2 is Hyp) And at least one selected from the group consisting of a hydrolyzate of collagen, gelatin and natural collagen containing a peptide unit represented by formula (1) and a hydrolyzate of collagen containing a peptide unit represented by formula (1): 13] the production method according to the above; [15]
- the dicarboxylic acid is selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, fuma
- the novel retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is excellent in safety, excellent in affinity to the skin, excellent in acting continuously, multi-faceted wrinkle formation preventing effect, wrinkle improving effect, skin beautifying effect and skin quality improving effect Can be played continuously.
- Such retinol-modified collagen is a single compound as a wrinkle formation inhibitor, wrinkle improving agent, skin beautifying agent, skin quality improving agent, hyaluronic acid production promoter, hyaluronic acid synthase activator, collagen production promoter,
- the composition is suitable as an active ingredient for a composition for external use of skin, for example, a composition for external use of skin for wrinkle formation prevention, wrinkle improvement, skin beautification, skin quality improvement, and sheet-like cosmetic.
- FIG. 6 is a graph showing the influence of retinol-modified collagen and collagen derivatives according to the present invention on IL-8 production in human epidermal keratinocyte monolayer cell lines (Test Example 4).
- FIG. 6 is a graph showing the influence of retinol-modified collagen and retinol according to the present invention on IL-8 production in human three-dimensional cultured epidermis (Test Example 5).
- the present invention provides a novel retinol-modified collagen.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is obtained by esterifying retinol via dicarboxylic acid to at least one hydroxyl group of amino acid residues constituting collagen.
- the collagen constituting the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention includes natural collagen or the formula (1):
- Gly represents glycine and A1 and A2 represent glycine, proline (Pro) or hydroxyproline (Hyp), provided that at least one of A1 and A2 is Hyp).
- A1 and A2 represent glycine, proline (Pro) or hydroxyproline (Hyp), provided that at least one of A1 and A2 is Hyp).
- synthetic collagen for collagen containing the peptide unit represented by formula (1) (hereinafter referred to as “synthetic collagen”), Gly-Hyp-Gly-, Pro-Hyp-Gly-, Hyp-Gly-Gly- and One or more peptide units selected from Hyp-Pro-Gly- are dissolved in an appropriate buffer, and a condensation aid such as 1-hydroxybenzotriazole (HOBt) is added to the solution. Obtained by adding a dehydration condensing agent such as ethyl-3- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) -carbodiimide hydrochloride and then dialyzing the reaction solution obtained by continuing stirring against water or a suitable buffer solution. Can do.
- a dehydration condensing agent such as ethyl-3- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) -carbodiimide hydrochloride
- the condensation reaction of synthetic collagen that can be used in the present invention can be carried out in a solvent capable of dissolving or suspending the peptide unit (partially or entirely), and a buffer solution can be usually used.
- a buffer solution can be usually used.
- the buffer that can be used include a phosphate buffer and a carbonate buffer.
- a non-aqueous solvent containing no water can also be used.
- N-hydroxytriazoles such as 1-hydroxybenzotriazole (HOBt)
- examples of the condensation aid that can be used for the condensation reaction of synthetic collagen include N-hydroxy polyvalent carboxylic acid imides [ For example, N-hydroxydicarboxylic imides such as N-hydroxysuccinimide (HONSu) and N-hydroxy-5-norbornene-2,3-dicarboxylic imide (HONB)], 3-hydroxy-4-oxo-3 1,4-dihydro-1,2,3-benzotriazine (HOObt) and the like, 2-hydroxyimino-2-cyanoacetic acid ethyl ester and the like.
- These condensation aids may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- Preferred condensation aids are N-hydroxybenzotriazoles such as 1-hydroxybenzotriazole (HOBt).
- the amount of the condensation aid used is, for example, about 0.05 to 5 mol, preferably about 0.1 to 2 mol, more preferably about 0.15 to 1 mol per 1 mol of the peptide unit, regardless of the type of aqueous or non-aqueous solvent. About 1 mole.
- examples of the dehydrating condensing agent that can be used for the condensation reaction of synthetic collagen include carbodiimide-based condensation.
- DIPC diisopropylcarbodiimide
- EDC WSCI
- DCC dicyclohexylcarbodiimide
- fluorophosphate condensing agents [O- (7-azabenzo Triazol-1-yl) -1,1,3,3-tetramethyluronium hexafluorophosphate, O-benzotriazol-1-yl-N, N, N ′, N′-tetramethyluronium hexafluorophosphate, Benzotriazol-1-yl-oxy-tris-pyrrolidinophosphonium hexafluorophosphate, benzotriazol-1-yl-tris (dimethylamino) phosphonium hexaf And luolophosphoride salts (BOP), etc.], diphenylphosphoryl azide (DP
- dehydration condensing agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- a preferred dehydrating condensing agent is a carbodiimide condensing agent such as 1-ethyl-3- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) -carbodiimide hydrochloride.
- the amount of the dehydrating condensing agent used is usually about 1 mol per peptide unit, because when using an aqueous solvent containing water, the dehydrating condensing agent is deactivated by water. 2 to 500 mol (eg about 2 to 50 mol), preferably about 5 to 250 mol (eg about 5 to 25 mol), more preferably about 10 to 125 mol (eg about 10 to 20 mol) is there. On the other hand, when a non-aqueous solvent not containing water is used, the amount is about 0.7 to 5 mol, preferably about 0.8 to 2.5 mol, more preferably about 0.9 to 2.3 mol (for example, about 1 to 2 mol).
- the pH of the reaction system may be adjusted, or a base that does not participate in the reaction may be added.
- tertiary amines for example, trialkylamines such as trimethylamine, triethylamine and diisopropylethylamine, and heterocyclic tertiary amines such as N-methylmorpholine and pyridine are used. be able to.
- the amount of such base used is usually about 1 to 2 times the total number of moles of peptide units.
- the dicarboxylic acid constituting the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a compound having two carboxyl groups.
- retinol-modified collagen of the present invention not only those in which any one kind of dicarboxylic acid as described above is bonded to the hydroxyl group of collagen, but also two or more kinds of dicarboxylic acids are each bonded to another hydroxyl group of collagen. Also included.
- one of the two carboxyl groups of dicarboxylic acid is ester-bonded to the hydroxyl group of collagen.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention includes those in which a dicarboxylic acid is bonded to one hydroxyl group of the collagen to all hydroxyl groups.
- the retinol constituting the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is obtained by ester-bonding to another carboxyl group of dicarboxylic acid ester-bonded to collagen via a hydroxyl group as described above.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention includes those in which retinol is bound to all dicarboxylic acids from those in which retinol is bound to one of the dicarboxylic acids bound to collagen.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has the formula (2): (2) And retinol-modified collagen consisting of peptide units represented by
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention includes a peptide unit represented by the formula (2) and a formula (3): (3) And a peptide unit represented by formula (4): (Four) And retinol-modified collagen comprising at least one peptide unit of the peptide unit represented by
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has a molecular weight of about 500 to about 3,000,000, about 1,000 to about 3,000,000, about 3,000 to about 3,000,000, about 5,000 to about 3,000,000, about 10,000 to about 3,000,000, about 30,000 to about 3,000,000, about 500 to about 2,000,000, about 1,000 to about 2,000,000, about 3,000 to about 2,000,000, about 5,000 to about 2,000,000, about 10,000 to about 2,000,000, about 30,000 to about 2,000,000, about 500 to about 1,000,000, about 1,000 to about 1,000,000, about 3,000 to about 1,000,000, About 5,000 to about 1,000,000, about 10,000 to about 1,000,000, about 30,000 to about 1,000,000, about 500 to about 700,000, about 1,000 to about 700,000, about 3,000 to about 700,000, about 5,000 to about 700,000, about 10,000 to about 700,000, about 30,000 To about 700,000, about 500 to about 500,000, about 1,000 to about 500,000, about 3,000 to about 500,000, about 5,000 to about 500,000, about 10,000 to about 500,000, about 30,000 to about 500,000, about
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention preferably has an infrared spectral absorption of about 1700 to 1800 cm ⁇ 1 derived from a dicarboxylic acid ester bond, a UV absorption of about 300 to 350 nm derived from retinol, and 1 H derived from a retinol cyclic structure.
- -NMR It has a peak around 1-2 ppm and a peak around 5.5-7 ppm derived from the polyene structure of retinol.
- the infrared spectrum absorption peak or UV absorption peak in this range is small, the amount of dicarboxylic acid bound to the collagen main chain or the amount of retinol bound to the dicarboxylic acid is small.
- Infrared spectral absorption can be measured by FT-IR (KBr method).
- the amount of dicarboxylic acid bound in the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention can be measured, for example, from the peak intensity ratio of ester and amide in infrared spectrum absorption. More specifically, after the addition reaction of dicarboxylic acid, the amount (number of moles) of unreacted dicarboxylic acid can be measured by quantifying by HPLC. That is, the amount obtained by subtracting the amount of unreacted dicarboxylic acid from the total amount of dicarboxylic acid used in the synthesis is the amount of dicarboxylic acid bound.
- the amount of retinol bound to the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention can be measured, for example, by quantifying the amount (number of moles) of unreacted retinol by HPLC after the retinol addition reaction. That is, the amount obtained by subtracting the amount of unreacted retinol from the total amount of retinol used in the synthesis is the binding amount of retinol.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has a high affinity with the skin, and when applied to the skin, it strongly adsorbs and penetrates the skin, and continuously increases the expression of the enzyme gene of the hyaluronic acid synthesis pathway to produce hyaluronic acid. Increases and promotes the synthesis of collagen, thereby exhibiting an excellent multifaceted wrinkle formation preventing effect, wrinkle improving effect, skin beautifying effect and skin quality improving effect continuously and cumulatively.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is useful as a wrinkle formation inhibitor, a wrinkle improving agent, a skin beautifying agent, a skin quality improving agent, a hyaluronic acid production promoter, a hyaluronic acid synthase activator, and a collagen production promoter.
- the present invention provides a method for producing the above retinol-modified collagen.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is (1) A dicarboxylic acid or anhydride thereof is bonded to a hydroxyl group in collagen to obtain a dicarboxylic acid-added collagen, and (2) a hydroxyl group of retinol is ester-bonded to the carboxyl group of the dicarboxylic acid of the dicarboxylic acid-added collagen. Including that.
- the collagen, dicarboxylic acid and its anhydride, and retinol described above in the description of retinol-modified collagen are used.
- the binding of dicarboxylic acid or anhydride thereof to collagen can be performed by a method known per se using a solvent, a dehydrating condensing agent, and a condensing aid as described above for synthetic collagen.
- the addition reaction to dicarboxylic acid-added collagen is usually performed under the condition that 1 to 2 equivalents of DIPEA is added to 1 mol of peptide unit in DMF (dimethylformamide) or the like.
- a reaction for binding retinol to dicarboxylic acid-added collagen was carried out under the same conditions, but it was found that retinol was hardly added.
- retinol was hardly added.
- tertiary amines preferably include trialkylamines, more preferably diisopropylethylamine.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is superior in affinity to the skin as compared with the conventional retinol or its derivatives, and has a multifaceted wrinkle formation preventing effect, a wrinkle improving effect, a skin beautifying effect, a skin quality that is excellent by acting continuously. An improvement effect can be exhibited. Accordingly, in a further aspect, the present invention provides an external composition for skin and a sheet-form cosmetic comprising retinol-modified collagen as an active ingredient.
- the amount of retinol-modified collagen to be blended in the external composition for skin of the present invention is about 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 to 50% by mass, about 1 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 5 to about the total amount of the composition impregnated in the external composition for skin.
- the external composition for skin of the present invention is formulated into, for example, pharmaceuticals such as ointments and creams, facial cleansers, milky lotions, creams, lotions, gels, cosmetics such as cosmetics, makeup cosmetics such as foundations, and lipsticks.
- pharmaceuticals such as ointments and creams, facial cleansers, milky lotions, creams, lotions, gels, cosmetics such as cosmetics, makeup cosmetics such as foundations, and lipsticks.
- the sheet-like cosmetic of the present invention may be composed of only other retinol-modified collagen, or may be composed of other optional components as appropriate, and can be formulated into a pack or a mask. it can.
- Test example 1 Evaluation of effects on hyaluronic acid synthase gene expression Evaluation of retinol-modified collagen using keratinocyte monolayer culture system 1 (comparison with retinol and retinol derivatives) Seed human epidermal keratinocytes (Cell Application Inc.) in a 24-well microtiter plate containing human epidermal keratinocyte growth medium (Cell Application Inc.) so that the number of cells is 1.5 ⁇ 10 5 per well. Then, the cells were cultured in 5% CO 2 -95% Air at 37 ° C. until they became confluent for about 2 days.
- retinol-modified collagen (REcol), retinol (Retinol), retinol palmitate (PalRE), or retinol acetate was prepared to a final concentration of 10-6 M or 10-5 M as the retinol concentration.
- (AceRE) -containing medium or medium alone control group, V
- the cells were cultured at 37 ° C. for 6, 24, or 48 hours in 5% CO 2 -95% Air.
- Each test substance was dissolved in a small amount of dimethylformamide and added to the medium, and the concentration of dimethylformamide was adjusted to 0.1% by weight in all experimental groups.
- HAS2 Fw primer agtcatgtacacagccttcagagca (SEQ ID NO: 1) Rv primer cacctccaaccatgggatcttc (SEQ ID NO: 2)
- HAS3 Fw primer tcggcgattcggtggacta (SEQ ID NO: 3) Rv primer cctccaggactcgaagcatctc (SEQ ID NO: 4)
- the gene expression of hyaluronic acid synthase HAS2 and HAS3 was evaluated by real-time PCR using. The result is shown in FIG.
- the graph shows the ratio of gene expression by each test substance when the expression ratio of HAS2 or HAS3 gene to peptidylprolyl isomerase A (PPIA) gene in the control group (V) after 6 hours of culture is 1.
- PPIA peptidylprolyl isomerase A
- retinol-modified collagen maintained high expression for both HAS2 and HAS3 genes for over 48 hours after culture. It was also found that the degree of gene expression depends on the concentration of retinol-modified collagen. On the other hand, it has been found that retinol acetate and retinol palmitate, which are conventional retinol derivatives, can induce only a low level of gene expression compared to retinol-modified collagen.
- Test example 2 Evaluation of effects on hyaluronic acid synthase gene expression Evaluation of retinol-modified collagen using keratinocyte monolayer culture system 1 (Comparison with retinol and retinol mixed system) Using retinol-modified collagen (REcol) of the production example, a mixture of retinol and synthetic succinate-added synthetic collagen (non-adduct, MIX) and retinol (retinol) prepared to a final concentration of 10 -5 M as the retinol concentration Thus, the expression of hyaluronic acid synthase genes HAS2 and HAS3 was evaluated in the same manner as in Test Example 1. The result is shown in FIG.
- retinol-modified collagen induces remarkably high expression compared to the mixture of retinol and succinic acid-added synthetic collagen and retinol after 48 hours of culture for both HAS2 and HAS3 genes.
- Test example 3 Evaluation of cytotoxicity of retinol-modified collagen Evaluate the cell viability of keratinocytes against retinol-modified collagen, using retinol (Sigma Aldrich), a mixture of retinol and synthetic collagen, and a general-purpose retinol derivative, retinol acetate (Sigma Aldrich) Compared to the case.
- Human epidermal keratinocytes (Cell Applications Inc.) are seeded in a 96-well plate containing human epidermal keratinocyte growth medium (Cell Applications Inc.) so that the number of cells is 2.32 ⁇ 10 4 per well. The cells were cultured for 2 days at 37 ° C.
- each test substance (retinol (Retinol), retinol modified collagen (REcol), retinol acetate (AceRE), a mixture of retinol and synthetic collagen (Retinol + pPHG)) is dissolved in a small amount of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO).
- DMSO dimethyl sulfoxide
- Dilute with KBM to a concentration of 5 to 200 ⁇ M prepared so that the final DMSO concentration in the medium is 1%, and control is diluted with KBM so that the final DMSO concentration is 1%). It replaced
- the survival rate of human epidermal keratinocytes 24 hours after the medium exchange was evaluated using the cell proliferation reagent WST-1 (Roch Diagnostics) (N 5). The results are shown in FIG.
- Test example 4 Evaluation of Inflammatory Cytokine Production of Retinol-Modified Collagen Using Keratinocyte Monolayer Culture System
- the amount of inflammatory cytokine IL-8 that is an index of itch caused by retinol-modified collagen in a keratinocyte monolayer culture system was evaluated.
- Human epidermal keratinocytes (HEK) were seeded in a 24-well plate containing human epidermal keratinocyte growth medium (1.0 ⁇ 10 5 cells / well) and cultured for 2 days so as to be confluent.
- retinol-modified collagen As a result, when retinol-modified collagen was applied, production of inflammatory cytokine IL-8, which is an index of inflammation of the epidermis, was suppressed and retinol was used compared to the case where retinol or succinic acid-added collagen was applied. It was shown that it can be applied to the skin without causing itching or the like that occurs as a side effect.
- Test Example 5 Evaluation of Inflammatory Cytokine Production of Retinol-Modified Collagen Using Human Three-Dimensional Cultured Epidermis
- Assay medium attached to a 12-well microplate, and human 3D cultured epidermis (LabCyte EPI-MODEL, J-TEC Co., Ltd.) in 5% CO 2 -95% Air at 37 ° C for 2 hours Pre-cultured.
- retinol Retinol
- REcol retinol-modified collagen
- Test Example 6 Evaluation of hyaluronic acid production by retinol-modified collagen using human three-dimensional cultured epidermis
- test Examples 1 and 2 real-time PCR evaluation of keratinocytes showed that retinol-modified collagen induced the expression of hyaluronic acid synthase gene . Therefore, the production amount of hyaluronic acid itself was quantified using human three-dimensional cultured epidermis (LabCyte, EPI-MODEL12) as a condition closer to the actual skin to be used.
- the retinol-modified collagen showed a hyaluronic acid production amount equivalent to that of retinol on the second day, and a higher hyaluronic acid production amount than retinol on the fourth day.
- Test Example 7 Evaluation of type I collagen synthesis by retinol-modified collagen using human three-dimensional cultured skin
- Type I collagen using human three-dimensional cultured skin (EFT-412, Kurashiki Boseki Co., Ltd.) as a condition closer to the actual skin used The amount of synthesis of was quantified. 2 ml of Assay medium attached to a 6-well plate was added, and human three-dimensional cultured skin (EFT-412, Kurashiki Boseki Co., Ltd.) was pre-cultured overnight at 37 ° C. in an incubator with 5% CO 2 atmosphere. Then, 80 ⁇ l of olive oil, 0.5% retinol or 0.5% retinol modified collagen was added to the pre-cultured skin and cultured for 2 days.
- retinol-modified collagen showed a higher amount of PIP synthesis than retinol, and it was confirmed that retinol-modified collagen promotes high type I collagen synthesis.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is strongly adsorbed when applied to the skin, and penetrates into the stratum corneum of the skin in a relatively short time, so that a certain amount remains even if the skin is washed. Is demonstrated continuously and cumulatively.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is capable of maintaining high hyaluronic acid synthase gene expression over a long period of time as compared to retinol and retinol derivatives used conventionally, low cytotoxicity, suppression of inflammatory cytokine production, It was found to have high hyaluronic acid production and collagen production effects, and was shown to exhibit excellent wrinkle formation prevention effects, wrinkle improvement effects, skin beautification effects and skin quality improvement effects when applied to the skin.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has an effect of increasing hyaluronic acid and type I collagen production on human skin cells.
- Hyaluronic acid has a skin moisturizing effect due to its water-retaining ability, an effect of improving and preventing fine wrinkles formed by skin dryness by moisturizing the epidermis, and it has been reported that hyaluronic acid in the stratum corneum acts as a radical scavenger ( Fragrance Journal 2004, 5, 65-71), the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has a moisturizing effect, cell proliferation (turnover promotion) and antioxidant effect.
- the amount of hyaluronic acid in the dermis increases and cell migration and proliferation, supply of nutrients and enzymes, etc.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention is It also has an effect on wound healing in the epidermis.
- hyaluronic acid in the stratum corneum interacts with intercellular lipid lamellar structures (The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2000, Vol. 114, No. 6, 1184-1187).
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has an effect of promoting the epidermal barrier function.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has a sagging prevention / amelioration effect, and further has deep dermal wrinkles and It has a wrinkle formation preventing effect and a wrinkle improving effect for both shallow epidermal wrinkles.
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention has a firmness-improving effect, a photo-aging skin-improving effect, an anti-aging effect, and the skin is smoothed, the skin texture is smoothed, the skin is kept healthy, the rough skin is prevented, and the skin is moisturized.
- Cosmetic effects such as giving, keeping the skin soft, tightening the skin, preventing dryness of the skin, softening the skin, giving skin elasticity, giving the skin shining, smoothing the skin, protecting the skin Has an effect.
- Formulation Example 1 Lotion Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.1 Ethanol 5.0 Concentrated glycerin 4.0 Trehalose 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (60 EO) 0.3 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 Paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.08 Sodium citrate 0.08 Perfume 0.03 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 2 Cosmetic liquid Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 5.0 Ethanol 10.0 Concentrated glycerin 10.0 1,3-butylene glycol 6.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 dl-Pyrrolidonecarboxylate sodium 0.5 Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (60 EO) 0.5 Xanthan gum 0.4 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 Fragrance 0.1 Paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.08 Sodium citrate 0.08 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Latex Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 12.0 Olive oil 8.0 Ethanol 3.0 Methylpolysiloxane 2.0 Stearic acid 1.0 Tri (Capryl / Capric acid) Glycerin 1.0 Batyl alcohol 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 Potassium hydroxide 0.2 Lecithin 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate (2) 0.1 Fragrance 0.1 Paraben 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 4 Cream Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 10.0 Concentrated glycerin 10.0 Olive oil 8.0 Squalane 6.0 Polyglyceryl monostearate 4.0 Lipophilic glyceryl monostearate 4.0 Stearic acid 4.0 Cetanol 3.0 Ethanol 3.0 1,2-hexanediol 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Methyl polysiloxane 0.7 Potassium hydroxide 0.6 Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 Fragrance 0.1 dl-Pyrrolidonecarboxylate sodium 0.1 Paraben 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 5 Cream Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 5.0 Concentrated glycerin 10.0 Olive oil 8.0 Squalane 6.0 Polyglyceryl monostearate 4.0 Lipophilic glyceryl monostearate 4.0 Stearic acid 4.0 Cetanol 3.0 Ethanol 3.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Methyl polysiloxane 0.7 Potassium hydroxide 0.6 Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 Fragrance 0.1 dl-Pyrrolidonecarboxylate sodium 0.1 Paraben 0.1 1,2-hexanediol 1.0 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 6 Face-wash form Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.1 Myristic acid 15.0 Palmitic acid 12.0 Stearic acid 10.0 Potassium hydroxide 8.0 Concentrated glycerin 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 4.0 Lauric acid 3.0 Sara honey bee 2.0 Ethanol 2.0 1,2-hexanediol 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Fragrance 0.6 Edetate disodium 0.2 Paraben 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 7 Cleansing Gel Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.1 Concentrated glycerin 17.0 Dipropylene glycol 17.0 Polyoxyethylene palm oil fatty acid glycerin (7 EO) 15.0 Ethanol 5.0 Olive oil 2.0 Carboxyvinyl polymer 1.0 Macadamia nut oil 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Sodium hydroxide 0.5 Paraben 0.1 Fragrance 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 8 Makeup Base Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 1.0 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 45.0 Zinc oxide 26.0 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 Olive oil 3.0 Titanium oxide 2.0 Polyglyceryl monoisostearate 2.0 Concentrated glycerin 1.0 Ethanol 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Poly (oxyethylene / oxypropylene) Methyl polysiloxane copolymer 0.5 Sodium chloride 0.5 Paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 9 Powder Foundation Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.1 Sericite 15.0 Synthetic phlogopite 10.0 Titanium oxide 10.0 Zinc oxide 10.0 Boron nitride 5.0 Iron oxide 5.0 Bengala 2.0 Aluminum oxide 1.0 Methyl polysiloxane 1.0 Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane 1.0 Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 1.0 Glyceryl isostearate 0.5 Ethanol 0.1 Paraben 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.1 Purified water 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.01 Talc rest Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 10 Liquid Foundation Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.5 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 30.0 Titanium oxide 8.0 Zinc oxide 5.0 Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 Methyl polysiloxane, cetyl methyl polysiloxane, Poly (oxyethylene / oxypropylene) Methylpolysiloxane copolymer 3.5 Iron oxide 3.0 Polyglyceryl triisostearate 3.0 1,2-pentanediol 3.0 Sericite 3.0 Octyldodecanol 2.0 Polyglyceryl diisostearate 2.0 Ethanol 1.0 Sodium chloride 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Silicic anhydride 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 11 Shampoo Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.1 Polyoxyethylene (3 EO) Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 15.0 Propylene glycol 8.0 Palm oil fat amidopropyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine 5.0 Palm oil fatty acid diethanolamide 3.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Fragrance 0.7 Paraben 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 12 Hair conditioner Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.1 Glyceryl tricaprylate 5.0 Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride 4.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 Polyoxyethylene (5 EO) oleyl ether 2.5 Cetanol 2.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Fragrance 0.5 Paraben 0.1 Purified water balance Total 100.0
- Formulation Example 13 Bath salt Ingredient Amount (%) Retinol-modified collagen 0.1 Sodium sulfate 50.0 Titanium oxide 1.0 Fragrance 0.7 Sodium bicarbonate remaining Total 100.0
- the retinol-modified collagen of the present invention can be used as an external composition for skin or a sheet-like cosmetic in the fields of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.
- SEQ ID NO: 1 is used as a forward primer for subjecting the hyaluronic acid synthase gene HAS2 to real-time PCR.
- SEQ ID NO: 2 is a reverse primer for subjecting hyaluronic acid synthase gene HAS2 to real-time PCR.
- SEQ ID NO: 3 is used as a forward primer for subjecting hyaluronic acid synthase gene HAS3 to real-time PCR.
- SEQ ID NO: 4 is used as a reverse primer for subjecting the hyaluronic acid synthase gene HAS3 to real-time PCR.
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Abstract
Description
しかしながら、従来のコラーゲンやコラーゲン誘導体では満足のゆく優れた皮膚老化防止効果が得られないという問題があった。
[1] コラーゲン中の少なくとも1つのヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸が結合し、少なくとも1つの結合した該ジカルボン酸のカルボキシル基にレチノールが結合したレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[2] 該コラーゲンが、天然コラーゲン、または式(1):
-(A1-A2-Gly)- (1)
(式中、Glyはグリシンを表し、A1およびA2はグリシン、プロリン(Pro)またはヒドロキシプロリン(Hyp)を表すが、但し、A1およびA2の少なくとも1つはHypである)
で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲン、ゼラチン、ならびに天然コラーゲンの加水分解物および式(1)で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲンの加水分解物よりなる群から選択される1種以上である前記[1]記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[3] 該ジカルボン酸が、シュウ酸、マロン酸、コハク酸、グルタル酸、アジピン酸、ピメリン酸、スベリン酸、アゼライン酸、セバシン酸、フタル酸、イソフタル酸、テレフタル酸、フマル酸およびマレイン酸よりなる群から選択される1種以上である前記[1]または[2]記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[4] 該ジカルボン酸がコハク酸である前記[3]記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[5] 式(2):
(2)
で表されるペプチドユニットからなる前記[1]ないし[4]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[6] 式(2)で表されるペプチドユニットと、式(3):
(3)
で表されるペプチドユニット、および、式(4):
(4)
で表されるペプチドユニットの少なくとも1種のペプチドユニットとからなる、前記[1]ないし[4]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[7] 前記ペプチドユニット(2)と前記ペプチドユニット(3)および前記ペプチドユニット(4)との存在割合が、モル比にて(2):((3)+(4))=1:99~100:0の範囲にある前記[6]記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[8] 分子量500~1,000,000の範囲に分子量分布のピークを有する前記[1]ないし[7]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[9] シワ形成防止剤である前記[1]ないし[8]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[10] ヒアルロン酸生成促進剤である前記[1]ないし[9]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[11] ヒアルロン酸合成酵素活性化剤である前記[1]ないし[10]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[12] コラーゲン生成促進剤である前記[1]ないし[11]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン;
[13] (1)コラーゲン中の少なくとも1つのヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸またはその無水物を結合させてジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンを得、ついで
(2)該ジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンのジカルボン酸のカルボキシル基にレチノールを結合させることを含む、前記[1]に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンの製造方法;
[14] 該コラーゲンが、天然コラーゲン、または式(1):
-A1-A2-Gly- (1)
(式中、Glyはグリシンを表し、A1およびA2はグリシン、プロリン(Pro)またはヒドロキシプロリン(Hyp)を表すが、但し、A1およびA2の少なくとも1つはHypである)
で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲン、ゼラチンならびに天然コラーゲンの加水分解物および式(1)で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲンの加水分解物よりなる群から選択される1種以上である前記[13]記載の製造方法;
[15] 該ジカルボン酸が、シュウ酸、マロン酸、コハク酸、グルタル酸、アジピン酸、ピメリン酸、スベリン酸、アゼライン酸、セバシン酸、フタル酸、イソフタル酸、テレフタル酸、フマル酸およびマレイン酸よりなる群から選択される1種以上である前記[13]または[14]記載の製造方法;
[16] 該ジカルボン酸がコハク酸である前記[15]記載の製造方法;
[17] (2)の工程において、溶媒として第三級アミン類を用いる前記[13]ないし[16]のいずれか1に記載の製造方法;
[18] 第三級アミンがトリアルキルアミン類である前記[17]記載の製造方法;
[19] トリアルキルアミン類がジイソプロピルエチルアミンである前記[18]記載の製造方法;
[20] 前記[1]ないし[12]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを有効成分として含む皮膚外用組成物;
[21] 組成物の全量に対して0.00001~30質量%の前記[1]ないし[12]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを含む皮膚外用組成物;
[22] シワ形成防止用である前記[20]または[21]記載の皮膚外用組成物;
[23] 前記[1]ないし[12]のいずれか1に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを含むシート状化粧料
を提供する。
本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンは、コラーゲンを構成するアミノ酸残基の少なくとも1つのヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸を介してレチノールがエステル結合したものである。
ここで、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを構成するコラーゲンには、天然コラーゲン、または式(1):
本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンでは、ジカルボン酸の2つのカルボキシル基のうちの1つのカルボキシル基がコラーゲンのヒドロキシル基にエステル結合する。
また、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンには、コラーゲンのヒドロキシル基のうちの1つのヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸が結合したものから全てのヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸が結合したものが含まれる。
また、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンには、コラーゲンに結合したジカルボン酸のうちの1つのジカルボン酸にレチノールが結合したものから全てのジカルボン酸にレチノールが結合したものが含まれる。
(3)
で表されるペプチドユニット、および、式(4):
で表されるペプチドユニットの少なくとも1種のペプチドユニットとからなるレチノール修飾コラーゲンが含まれる。
本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンの分子量は、例えばゲルパーミエーションクロマトグラフィーで測定することができる。
したがって、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンは、シワ形成防止剤、シワ改善剤、美肌剤、肌質改善剤、ヒアルロン酸生成促進剤、ヒアルロン酸合成酵素活性化剤、コラーゲン生成促進剤として有用である。
本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンは、
(1)コラーゲン中のヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸またはその無水物を結合させてジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンを得、ついで
(2)該ジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンのジカルボン酸のカルボキシル基にレチノールのヒドロキシル基をエステル結合させることを含む。
また、コラーゲンに対するジカルボン酸またはその無水物の結合は、合成コラーゲンについて前記したような溶媒、脱水縮合剤、縮合助剤を用いて自体公知の方法で行うことができる。
ジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンに対する付加反応は、通常、DMF(ジメチルフォルムアミド)などに、ペプチドユニット1モルに対して1ないし2等量のDIPEAを添加する条件で行われる。そこで、ジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンへレチノールを結合させる反応をその条件を用いて行ったが、レチノールはほとんど付加しないことがわかった。驚くべきことには、レチノールをジカルボン酸基に結合させる工程において、溶媒として第三級アミン類を用いると、レチノールの付加量が増加することが判明した。かかる第三級アミン類としては、好ましくはトリアルキルアミン類、より好ましくはジイソプロピルエチルアミンが含まれる。
したがって、本発明は、さらなる態様において、レチノール修飾コラーゲンを有効成分として含む皮膚外用組成物およびシート状化粧料を提供する。
レチノール修飾コラーゲンの合成
(1)ポリ(Pro-Hyp-Gly)の合成反応
Pro-Hyp-Gly(PHG)トリペプチド((株)ペプチド研究所)を10mMリン酸塩緩衝液(pH7.4)に溶解攪拌した後、1-ヒドロキシベンゾトリアゾール(HOBt)を加えて攪拌し、5℃以下に冷却した。1-エチル-3-(3-ジメチルアミノプロピル)カルボジイミド塩酸塩を添加し、90分間放置(反応)後、加温し、10mMリン酸塩緩衝生食液(PBS;pH7.4、0.15M NaClを含む)を添加して反応を停止させた。反応物は透析の後に、凍結乾燥してスポンジ状の合成コラーゲンを得た。
得られた合成コラーゲン(poly-PHG)について、ゲルパーミエーションクロマトグラフィー(GEヘルスケアジャパン(株)、AKTApurifierシステム、column:Superdex 200HRGL、流速:0.5ml/分、溶離液:10mMリン酸塩緩衝生食液(PBS;pH7.4、0.15M NaClを含む))を用いて分子量測定を行った。その結果、合成コラーゲンの分子量は2,000~100,000に分布し、ピークトップは20,000付近に確認された。分子量はポリエチレングリコール(Fluka社)を標準物質として使用して算出した。
また、得られた合成コラーゲンの円二色性スペクトルを測定したところ、225nmに正のコットン効果、197nmに負のコットン効果が観察され、三重らせん構造を形成していることが確認された。
乾燥した合成コラーゲンを細かく切断し、ジメチルホルムアミド(DMF)で洗浄した。DMFを添加し、攪拌しながら5℃以下に冷却した。再結晶により精製した無水コハク酸(和光純薬工業(株)、特級試薬)と、ジイソプロピルエチルアミン(DIPEA)を添加した後に、2時間反応させた後に温度を20℃としてさらに一晩反応させた。反応は水で4倍に希釈することで停止させた。反応液は透析の後に、凍結乾燥してスポンジ状のコハク酸が付加した合成コラーゲンを得た。
生成したコハク酸付加合成コラーゲンの赤外吸収スペクトルをFT-IR(KBr法)により測定した。その結果、1730cm-1付近にエステル結合由来の吸収が出現し、得られたコハク酸付加合成コラーゲンが、合成コラーゲンのヒドロキシル基にコハク酸がエステル結合した構造を有することが確認された。
コハク酸付加合成コラーゲンにジメチルホルムアミドを添加して懸濁した。つづいて、N-ヒドロキシスクシンイミド(HOSu)および1-エチル-3-(3-ジメチルアミノプロピル)-カルボジイミド塩酸塩を添加して攪拌し、20℃にて一晩反応させた。その反応物をメタノールおよびテトラヒドロフランで洗浄後、反応溶媒としてジイソプロピルエチルアミン(DIPEA)を添加し、つづいてレチノールを添加し、攪拌しつつ20℃にて一晩反応させた。その反応物をイソプロパノールおよびベンゼンで洗浄後、凍結乾燥して目的のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを得た。
得られた反応物を重溶媒に溶解し、1H-NMRスペクトルを測定した(JOEL、JNM-ECP600 spectrometer)。その結果、1~2ppmにレチノールの環状構造由来のピークが、5.5~7ppmにレチノールのポリエン構造由来のピークが確認された。また、レチノールの15位由来の水素ピークがレチノール単体よりも低磁場側にシフトしていた。以上のことから、得られた反応物が、コハク酸付加合成コラーゲンにレチノールがエステル結合を介して付加した構造を有することが確認された。
また、得られた反応物について、レチノールに由来する325nmのUV吸収を測定してレチノールの付加を確認した。
ヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子発現に及ぼす効果の評価
ケラチノサイト単層培養系を用いたレチノール修飾コラーゲンの評価1(レチノールおよびレチノール誘導体との比較)
ヒト表皮角化細胞(Cell Application Inc.社)をヒト表皮角化細胞増殖培地(Cell Application Inc.社)を含む24ウェルマイクロタイタープレートに細胞数が1ウェル当たり1.5×105個になるよう播種し、5%CO2-95%Air中、37℃にてコンフルエントになるまで約2日間培養した。
つぎに、培地を棄て、レチノール濃度として10-6Mまたは10-5Mの最終濃度に調製した、製造例のレチノール修飾コラーゲン(REcol)、レチノール(Retinol)、パルミチン酸レチノール(PalRE)または酢酸レチノール(AceRE)を含有する培地、または培地のみ(対照区、V)を加えて、5%CO2-95%Air中、37℃にて6、24または48時間培養した。なお、各被験物質は少量のジメチルホルムアミドに溶解して培地に添加し、全ての実験区においてジメチルホルムアミドの濃度は0.1重量%に調整した。
所定の時間培養した後、ケラチノサイトを回収してRNAを抽出し、プライマー対(タカラバイオ(株))
HAS2: Fwプライマー agtcatgtacacagccttcagagca(配列番号:1)
Rvプライマー cacctccaaccatgggatcttc(配列番号:2)
HAS3: Fwプライマー tcggcgattcggtggacta(配列番号:3)
Rvプライマー cctccaggactcgaagcatctc(配列番号:4)
を用いたリアルタイムPCRによりヒアルロン酸合成酵素HAS2およびHAS3の遺伝子発現を評価した。その結果を図1に示す。
グラフは、培養6時間後の対照区(V)におけるペプチジルプロリルイソメラーゼA(PPIA)遺伝子に対するHAS2またはHAS3遺伝子の発現比を1とした場合の各被験物質による遺伝子発現の比を表す。
ヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子発現に及ぼす効果の評価
ケラチノサイト単層培養系を用いたレチノール修飾コラーゲンの評価1(レチノールおよびレチノール混合系との比較)
レチノール濃度として10-5Mの最終濃度に調製した、製造例のレチノール修飾コラーゲン(REcol)、レチノールおよび製造例のコハク酸付加合成コラーゲンの混合物(非付加物、MIX)ならびにレチノール(Retinol)を用いて、試験例1と同様の方法でヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子HAS2およびHAS3の発現を評価した。その結果を図2に示す。
レチノール修飾コラーゲンの細胞毒性の評価
レチノール修飾コラーゲンに対するケラチノサイトの細胞生存率を評価し、レチノール(Sigma Aldrich社)、レチノールおよび合成コラーゲンの混合物、および汎用レチノール誘導体である酢酸レチノール(Sigma Aldrich社)を用いた場合と比較した。
ヒト表皮角化細胞(Cell Applications Inc.)をヒト表皮角化細胞増殖培地(Cell Applications Inc.)を含む96ウェルプレートに細胞数が1ウェル当たり2.32×104個になるように播種し、5%CO2-95%Air中、37℃にてコンフルエントになるまで2日間培養した。
一方、各被験物質(レチノール(Retinol)、レチノール修飾コラーゲン(REcol)、酢酸レチノール(AceRE)、レチノールおよび合成コラーゲンの混合物(Retinol+pPHG))を、少量のジメチルスルホキシド(DMSO)に溶解させ、レチノール濃度として5~200μMになるようにKBMで希釈し(培地におけるDMSO最終濃度が1%となるよう調製、対照区(Control)はDMSO最終濃度が1%となるようKBMで希釈)、これをヒト表皮角化細胞の培養に用いた培地と交換した。
培地交換後24時間のヒト表皮角化細胞の生存率を細胞増殖試薬WST-1(Roch Diagnostics)を用いて評価した(N=5)。その結果を図3に示す。
ケラチノサイト単層培養系を用いたレチノール修飾コラーゲンの炎症性サイトカイン産生の評価
ケラチノサイト単層培養系における、レチノール修飾コラーゲンによるかゆみ指標である炎症性サイトカインIL-8産生量を評価した。
ヒト表皮角化細胞(HEK)をヒト表皮角化細胞増殖培地を含む24ウェルプレートに播種し(1.0×105 cells/well)、コンフルエントになるよう、2日間培養した。
一方、各被験物質(レチノール(Retinol)、レチノール修飾コラーゲン(REcol)、コハク酸付加コラーゲン(Suc))を、少量のDMSO中に溶解させ、レチノール濃度として10-6Mまたは10-5Mの濃度になるようKBMで希釈し、(培地におけるDMSO最終濃度が1%となるよう調製、対照区(Control)はDMSO最終濃度が1%となるようKBMで希釈)、これをヒト表皮角化細胞の培養に用いた培地と交換した。
培地交換から24時間後に培養培地を回収し、ELISAキット(R&D systems社)によってIL-8産生量を定量した(N=4)。その結果を図4に示す。
ヒト三次元培養表皮を用いたレチノール修飾コラーゲンの炎症性サイトカイン産生の評価
ケラチノサイト三次元培養表皮系における、レチノール修飾コラーゲンによるかゆみ指標である炎症性サイトカインIL-8産生量を評価した。
12ウェルマイクロプレートに付属のAssay培地を1ml添加し、ヒト三次元培養表皮(LabCyte EPI-MODEL、(株)J-TEC社)を5%CO2-95%Air中、37℃にて2時間事前培養した。
ついで、事前培養した培養表皮に、オリーブ油(Control)、レチノール濃度として0.1%に調整したレチノール(Retinol)またはレチノール修飾コラーゲン(REcol)を80μl添加し、4日間培養した。レチノールおよびレチノール修飾コラーゲン溶液の調製にはオリーブ油を用いた。
添加後2日目および4日目に培地を回収し、ELISAキット(R&D systems)によってIL-8産生量を定量した(2日目までN=5、4日目までN=3)。また、有意差はstudent-t検定により算出した。その結果を図5に示す。
なお、試験例4ではレチノール修飾コラーゲンによるIL-8産生量が対照区よりも抑制され、また、試験例5の結果と傾向が異なる点については、三次元培養皮膚系を用いた場合(試験例5)には角質層上に物質が添加されるため物質と生細胞とが直接接する面積が少ないのに対し、単層培養系を用いた場合(試験例4)は生細胞と物質とが直接接するため、物質による効果が顕著に表れたものと考察した。
ヒト三次元培養表皮を用いたレチノール修飾コラーゲンによるヒアルロン酸産生の評価
試験例1および2では、ケラチノサイトのリアルタイムPCR評価により、レチノール修飾コラーゲンがヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子の発現を誘導することが示された。そこで、実使用する皮膚により近い条件として、ヒト三次元培養表皮(LabCyte、EPI-MODEL12)を用いてヒアルロン酸そのものの産生量を定量した。
12ウェルプレートに付属のAssay培地を1ml添加し、ヒト三次元培養表皮(LabCyte EPI-MODEL、(株)J-TEC社)を5%CO2-95%Air中、37℃にて2時間事前培養した。
ついで、事前培養した培養皮膚に、オリーブ油(Control)、レチノール濃度として0.1%に調整したレチノール(Retinol)またはレチノール修飾コラーゲン(REcol)を80μl添加し、4日間培養した。レチノールおよびレチノール修飾コラーゲン溶液の調製にはオリーブ油を用いた。
添加後2日目および4日目に培養表皮を回収し、培養表皮内のヒアルロン酸量をヒアルロン酸測定キット(生化学バイオビジネス(株)社)によって定量した(2日目までN=5、4日目までN=3)。また、有意差はstudent-t検定により算出した。その結果を図6に示す。
ヒト三次元培養皮膚を用いたレチノール修飾コラーゲンによるI型コラーゲン合成の評価
実使用する皮膚により近い条件として、ヒト三次元培養皮膚(EFT-412、倉敷紡績(株)社)を用いてI型コラーゲンの合成量を定量した。
6ウェルプレートに付属のAssay培地を2ml添加し、ヒト三次元培養皮膚(EFT-412、倉敷紡績(株)社)を5%CO2雰囲気のインキュベーター内、37℃にて一晩事前培養した。
ついで、事前培養した培養皮膚に、オリーブ油、0.5%レチノールまたは0.5%レチノール修飾コラーゲンを80μl添加し、2日間培養した。レチノールおよびレチノール修飾コラーゲン溶液の調製にはオリーブ油を用いた。
添加後1日目および2日目に培養培地を回収し、培地中のI型プロコラーゲン(PIP)量を、PIP EIAキット(タカラバイオ(株)社)によって定量した(2日目までN=6)。また、有意差はstudent-t検定により算出した。その結果を図7に示す。
これらの試験から、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンは、従来使用されていたレチノールやレチノール誘導体と比較して長時間にわたる高いヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子の発現の維持、低い細胞毒性、炎症性サイトカイン産生抑制、高いヒアルロン酸産生およびコラーゲン産生効果を有することが判明し、皮膚に適用して優れたシワ形成防止効果、シワ改善効果、美肌効果および肌質改善効果を発揮することが示された。
ヒアルロン酸はその保水力による表皮保湿効果や、皮膚の乾燥により形成される小ジワを表皮の保湿により改善・予防する効果のほか、角層のヒアルロン酸がラジカルスカベンジャーとして作用するとの報告がある(Fragrance Journal 2004,5,65-71)ことから、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンは保湿効果、細胞増殖(ターンオーバー促進)および抗酸化効果を有する。また、創傷治癒の過程では真皮におけるヒアルロン酸量が増大して細胞の遊走や増殖、栄養素や酵素の供給などを行うため(Fragrance Journal 2004,5,65-71)、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンは表皮での創傷治癒にも効果を有する。また、角層のヒアルロン酸が細胞間の脂質ラメラ構造と相互作用することが報告されており(The Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2000,Vol.114,No.6,1184-1187)、培養皮膚にヒアルロン酸を添加すると表皮が厚くなり、ヒアルロン酸が表皮の脂質によるバリア機能を促進すると考えられる(Experimental Dermatology,19,e336-e339)ことから、本発明のレチノール修飾コラーゲンは表皮バリア機能を促進する効果を有する。
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.1
エタノール 5.0
濃グリセリン 4.0
トレハロース 1.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.7
ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油(60 E.O.) 0.3
ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム 0.1
パラベン 0.1
クエン酸 0.08
クエン酸ナトリウム 0.08
香料 0.03
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 5.0
エタノール 10.0
濃グリセリン 10.0
1,3-ブチレングリコール 6.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.8
dl-ピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウム 0.5
ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油(60 E.O.) 0.5
キサンタンガム 0.4
ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム 0.1
香料 0.1
パラベン 0.1
クエン酸 0.08
クエン酸ナトリウム 0.08
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 5.0
1,3-ブチレングリコール 12.0
オリーブ油 8.0
エタノール 3.0
メチルポリシロキサン 2.0
ステアリン酸 1.0
トリ(カプリル/カプリン酸)グリセリン 1.0
バチルアルコール 1.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.7
カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.2
水酸化カリウム 0.2
レシチン 0.1
ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム(2) 0.1
香料 0.1
パラベン 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 10.0
濃グリセリン 10.0
オリーブ油 8.0
スクワラン 6.0
モノステアリン酸ポリグリセリル 4.0
親油性モノステアリン酸グリセリル 4.0
ステアリン酸 4.0
セタノール 3.0
エタノール 3.0
1,2-ヘキサンジオール 1.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.9
メチルポリシロキサン 0.7
水酸化カリウム 0.6
カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.2
香料 0.1
dl-ピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウム 0.1
パラベン 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 5.0
濃グリセリン 10.0
オリーブ油 8.0
スクワラン 6.0
モノステアリン酸ポリグリセリル 4.0
親油性モノステアリン酸グリセリル 4.0
ステアリン酸 4.0
セタノール 3.0
エタノール 3.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.9
メチルポリシロキサン 0.7
水酸化カリウム 0.6
カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.2
香料 0.1
dl-ピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウム 0.1
パラベン 0.1
1,2-ヘキサンジオール 1.0
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.1
ミリスチン酸 15.0
パルミチン酸 12.0
ステアリン酸 10.0
水酸化カリウム 8.0
濃グリセリン 5.0
1,3-ブチレングリコール 4.0
ラウリン酸 3.0
サラシミツロウ 2.0
エタノール 2.0
1,2-ヘキサンジオール 1.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.9
香料 0.6
エデト酸二ナトリウム 0.2
パラベン 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.1
濃グリセリン 17.0
ジプロピレングリコール 17.0
ポリオキシエチレンヤシ油脂肪酸グリセリン(7 E.O.)15.0
エタノール 5.0
オリーブ油 2.0
カルボキシビニルポリマー 1.0
マカデミアナッツ油 1.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.9
水酸化ナトリウム 0.5
パラベン 0.1
香料 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 1.0
デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 45.0
酸化亜鉛 26.0
1,3-ブチレングリコール 5.0
オリーブ油 3.0
酸化チタン 2.0
モノイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル 2.0
濃グリセリン 1.0
エタノール 1.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.8
ポリ(オキシエチレン・オキシプロピレン)
メチルポリシロキサン共重合体 0.5
塩化ナトリウム 0.5
パラベン 0.1
クエン酸 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.1
セリサイト 15.0
合成金雲母 10.0
酸化チタン 10.0
酸化亜鉛 10.0
窒化ホウ素 5.0
酸化鉄 5.0
ベンガラ 2.0
酸化アルミニウム 1.0
メチルポリシロキサン 1.0
メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン 1.0
2-エチルヘキサン酸セチル 1.0
イソステアリン酸グリセリル 0.5
エタノール 0.1
パラベン 0.1
フェノキシエタノール 0.1
精製水 0.1
ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム 0.01
タルク 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.5
デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 30.0
酸化チタン 8.0
酸化亜鉛 5.0
トリ2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 5.0
1,3-ブチレングリコール 5.0
メチルポリシロキサン・セチルメチルポリシロキサン・
ポリ(オキシエチレン・オキシプロピレン)
メチルポリシロキサン共重合体 3.5
酸化鉄 3.0
トリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル 3.0
1,2-ペンタンジオール 3.0
セリサイト 3.0
オクチルドデカノール 2.0
ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル 2.0
エタノール 1.0
塩化ナトリウム 0.5
フェノキシエタノール 0.5
無水ケイ酸 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.1
ポリオキシエチレン(3 E.O.)
ラウリルエーテル硫酸ナトリウム 15.0
プロピレングリコール 8.0
ヤシ油脂肪アミドプロピルジメチルアミノ酢酸ベタイン 5.0
ヤシ油脂肪酸ジエタノールアミド 3.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.8
香料 0.7
パラベン 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.1
トリカプリル酸グリセリル 5.0
塩化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウム 4.0
プロピレングリコール 3.0
ポリオキシエチレン(5 E.O.)オレイルエーテル 2.5
セタノール 2.5
フェノキシエタノール 0.8
香料 0.5
パラベン 0.1
精製水 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 0.1
硫酸ナトリウム 50.0
酸化チタン 1.0
香料 0.7
炭酸水素ナトリウム 残部
合計 100.0
成分 配合量(%)
レチノール修飾コラーゲン 残部
ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム(2) 10.0
合計 100.0
配列番号:2をヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子HAS2につきリアルタイムPCRに付すためのリバースプライマーとする。
配列番号:3をヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子HAS3につきリアルタイムPCRに付すためのフォワードプライマーとする。
配列番号:4をヒアルロン酸合成酵素遺伝子HAS3につきリアルタイムPCRに付すためのリバースプライマーとする。
Claims (23)
- コラーゲン中の少なくとも1つのヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸が結合し、少なくとも1つの結合した該ジカルボン酸のカルボキシル基にレチノールが結合したレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- 該コラーゲンが、天然コラーゲン、または式(1):
-(A1-A2-Gly)- (1)
(式中、Glyはグリシンを表し、A1およびA2はグリシン、プロリン(Pro)またはヒドロキシプロリン(Hyp)を表すが、但し、A1およびA2の少なくとも1つはHypである)
で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲン、ゼラチン、ならびに天然コラーゲンの加水分解物および式(1)で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲンの加水分解物よりなる群から選択される1種以上である請求項1記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。 - 該ジカルボン酸が、シュウ酸、マロン酸、コハク酸、グルタル酸、アジピン酸、ピメリン酸、スベリン酸、アゼライン酸、セバシン酸、フタル酸、イソフタル酸、テレフタル酸、フマル酸およびマレイン酸よりなる群から選択される1種以上である請求項1または2記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- 該ジカルボン酸がコハク酸である請求項3記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- 前記ペプチドユニット(2)と前記ペプチドユニット(3)および前記ペプチドユニット(4)との存在割合が、モル比にて(2):((3)+(4))=1:99~100:0の範囲にある請求項6記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- 分子量500~1,000,000の範囲に分子量分布のピークを有する請求項1ないし7のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- シワ形成防止剤である請求項1ないし8のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- ヒアルロン酸生成促進剤である請求項1ないし9のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- ヒアルロン酸合成酵素活性化剤である請求項1ないし10のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- コラーゲン生成促進剤である請求項1ないし11のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲン。
- (1)コラーゲン中の少なくとも1つのヒドロキシル基にジカルボン酸またはその無水物を結合させてジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンを得、ついで
(2)該ジカルボン酸付加コラーゲンのジカルボン酸のカルボキシル基にレチノールを結合させることを含む、請求項1ないし8のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンの製造方法。 - 該コラーゲンが、天然コラーゲン、または式(1):
-A1-A2-Gly- (1)
(式中、Glyはグリシンを表し、A1およびA2はグリシン、プロリン(Pro)またはヒドロキシプロリン(Hyp)を表すが、但し、A1およびA2の少なくとも1つはHypである)
で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲン、ゼラチンならびに天然コラーゲンの加水分解物および式(1)で表されるペプチドユニットを含むコラーゲンの加水分解物よりなる群から選択される1種以上である請求項13記載の製造方法。 - 該ジカルボン酸が、シュウ酸、マロン酸、コハク酸、グルタル酸、アジピン酸、ピメリン酸、スベリン酸、アゼライン酸、セバシン酸、フタル酸、イソフタル酸、テレフタル酸、フマル酸およびマレイン酸よりなる群から選択される1種以上である請求項13または14記載の製造方法。
- 該ジカルボン酸がコハク酸である請求項15記載の製造方法。
- (2)の工程において、溶媒として第三級アミン類を用いる請求項13ないし16のいずれか1項に記載の製造方法。
- 第三級アミンがトリアルキルアミン類である請求項17記載の製造方法。
- トリアルキルアミン類がジイソプロピルエチルアミンである請求項18記載の製造方法。
- 請求項1ないし12のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを有効成分として含む皮膚外用組成物。
- 組成物の全量に対して0.00001~30質量%の請求項1ないし12のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを含む皮膚外用組成物。
- シワ形成防止用である請求項20または21記載の皮膚外用組成物。
- 請求項1ないし12のいずれか1項に記載のレチノール修飾コラーゲンを含むシート状化粧料。
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EP11795768.8A EP2583977B1 (en) | 2010-06-15 | 2011-06-15 | Retinol-modified collagen, method for producing same, and external composition for skin containing same |
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US13/703,477 US9238688B2 (en) | 2010-06-15 | 2011-06-15 | Retinol-modified collagen, method for producing same, and external composition for skin containing same |
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JP2018512441A (ja) * | 2015-04-13 | 2018-05-17 | ジェラーゲン ピーティワイ エルティディーJellagen Pty Ltd | 修飾コラーゲン、その製造方法 |
CN109431841A (zh) * | 2018-12-25 | 2019-03-08 | 樊利平 | 一种抗氧化抗衰老的美白精华液及其制备方法 |
CN115737506A (zh) * | 2022-12-16 | 2023-03-07 | 江苏亨瑞生物医药科技有限公司 | 一种含有胶原蛋白的面膜及其制备方法 |
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KR101721022B1 (ko) * | 2016-02-15 | 2017-03-29 | 연세대학교 산학협력단 | 아디프산을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부주름개선 및 피부탄력증진용 조성물 |
CA3056759C (en) | 2016-03-22 | 2024-01-23 | Avicenna Nutraceutical, Llc | Hydrolyzed collagen compositions and methods of making thereof |
WO2017217660A1 (ko) * | 2016-06-13 | 2017-12-21 | 연세대학교 산학협력단 | 수베르산 또는 이의 염을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부보습 개선, 피부각질 제거, 피부탄력 증진, 홍반 억제, 피부주름 개선 또는 피부광노화 개선 효과를 갖는 조성물 |
KR101846773B1 (ko) * | 2017-02-01 | 2018-04-09 | 숭실대학교산학협력단 | 레티놀이 효과적으로 함유된 주름개선 자기조립 나노입자 및 이의 제조 방법 |
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WO2023233920A1 (ja) * | 2022-05-30 | 2023-12-07 | 大日精化工業株式会社 | 紙状複合シート及び紙状複合シートの製造方法 |
CN117903293A (zh) * | 2024-03-19 | 2024-04-19 | 如凤凰再生科技发展(成都)有限公司 | 一种具有热稳定性和促进自身胶原生成的三螺旋胶原蛋白及其制备方法和用途 |
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CN115737506A (zh) * | 2022-12-16 | 2023-03-07 | 江苏亨瑞生物医药科技有限公司 | 一种含有胶原蛋白的面膜及其制备方法 |
CN115737506B (zh) * | 2022-12-16 | 2023-09-05 | 江苏亨瑞生物医药科技有限公司 | 一种含有胶原蛋白的面膜及其制备方法 |
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EP2583977A4 (en) | 2014-02-19 |
US9238688B2 (en) | 2016-01-19 |
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