Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B82—NANOTECHNOLOGY
  • B82Y—SPECIFIC USES OR APPLICATIONS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MEASUREMENT OR ANALYSIS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MANUFACTURE OR TREATMENT OF NANOSTRUCTURES
  • B82Y5/00—Nanobiotechnology or nanomedicine, e.g. protein engineering or drug delivery
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
  • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
  • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
  • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

• the invention relates to compositions for improving the appearance of skin, particularly to provide good coverage over imperfections such as pores and uneven skin tone, while retaining a natural skirx appearance.
• a matte effect is desired for users of color cosmetics.
• the matte finish overcomes the shiny effect engendered by greasy skin, particularly under hot and humid conditions.
• Absorbent fillers suchi as talc, silica, kaolin and other inorganic particulates have been used to achieve the effect by their optical properties.
• Imperfect skin can be hidden in two ways through manipulation of light transmission.
• components of the color cosmetic may simply reflect light back toward the source.
• An alternative approach is referred to as achieving a soft focus effect.
• the incoming light is distorted by scattering (lensing) .
• Components of the color cosmetic in this mechanism operate as lenses to bend and twist light into a variety of directions.
• Silicone gelling agents such as crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers because of their excellent skinfeel properties have been found useful in make-up compositions.
• US Patent 5,266,321 discloses an oily make-up composition comprised of a silicone gel crosslinked elastomer, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides.
• Japanese patent application 61-194009 describes a make-up composition comprising a cured organopolysiloxane elastomer powder and pigments which may be selected from talc, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxides.
• a challenge which has not been fully met by the known art is delivery of a composition with appropriate optics to achieve both soft focus and radiance properties in a system that still provides excellent skinfeel .
• a cosmetic composition which includes: (i) a crosslinked silicone elastomer; (ii) a zinc oxide or zirconium oxide of average particle size less than 300 nm; (iii) a light reflecting inorganic material of platelet shaped particles having an average particle size of about 10,000 to about 30,000 nm; and (iv) a cosmetically acceptable carrier system.
• a soft focus effect with radiance can be obtained by a combination of fine particle sized zinc oxide or zirconium oxide suspended with a crosslinked silicone elastomer.
• the zinc or zirconium oxide must have an average particle size less than 300 nm. Absent the elastomer or the zinc or zirconium oxide, there would be insufficient soft focus effect. The oxide alone is inefficient because of excessive loss of reflectance/radiance.
• a component of the present invention is a crosslinked silicone (organopolysiloxane) elastomer.
• Examples in this respect are addition reaction- curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having silicon- bonded vinyl groups; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound by a dehydrogenation reaction between hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and SiH-containing ' diorganopolysiloxane; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester, by a condensation reaction between an hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organosilane (this condensation reaction is exemplified by dehydration, alcohol- liberating, oxime-liberating, amine-liberating, amide- liberating, carboxyl-liberating, and ketone
• Addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions are preferred for their rapid curing rates and excellent uniformity of curing.
• a particularly preferred addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane composition is prepared from:
• the crosslinked siloxane elastomer of the present invention may either be an emulsifying or non-emulsifying crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer or combinations thereof.
• non-emulsifying as used herein, defines crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer from which polyoxyalkylene units are absent.
• emulsifying as used herein, means crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer having at least one polyoxyalkylene (e.g., polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) unit .
• Particularly useful emulsifying elastomers are polyoxyalkylene- modified elastomers formed from divinyl compounds, particularly siloxane polymers with at least two free vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H linkages on a polysiloxane backbone.
• the elastomers are dimethyl polysiloxanes crosslinked by Si-H sites on a molecularly spherical MQ resin.
• Preferred silicone elastomers are organopolysiloxane compositions available under the INCI names of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer and Polysilicone-11. Ordinarily these materials are provided as a 1-30% crosslinked silicone elastomer dissolved or suspended in a dimethicone fluid (usually cyclomethicone) .
• dimethicone fluid usually cyclomethicone
• crosslinked silicone elastomer refers to the elastomer alone rather than the total commercial compositions which also include a solvent (e.g. dimethicone) carrier.
• Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers and dimethicone crosspoly ⁇ ers are available from a variety of suppliers including Dow Corning (9040, 9041, 9045, 9506 and 9509), General
• silicone elastomer powders include vinyl dimethicone/methicone silesquioxane crosspolymers from Shin-Etsu sold as KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP- 104, KSP-105, and hybrid silicone powders that contain a fluoroalkyl group or a phenyl group sold by Shin-Etsu as respectively KSP-200 and KSP-300.
• the crosslinked silicone elastomers of the present invention may range in concentration from about 0.01 to about 30%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10%, optimally from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition. These weight values exclude any solvent such as eyelomethicone found in commercial "elastomer" silicones such as the Dow Corning products 9040 and 9045. For instance, the amount of crosslinked silicone elastomer in 9040 and 9045 is between 12 and 13% by weight.
• silicone elastomer is 9045 which has a D5 cyclomethicone swelled elastomer particle size (based on volume and calculated as spherical particles) which averages about 38 micron, and may range from about 25 to about 55 micron.
• a second important component of the present invention is that of a micronized zinc oxide or zirconium oxide having average (number) particle sizes less than 300 nm, preferably less than
• the particle sizes can range from about 0.01 to about 280 nm, more preferably from about 1 to about 200 nm, even more preferably from 10 to 95 nm, and optimally from 25 to 75 nm.
• Average particle size of the oxide assumes a spherical shape and is defined as the diameter of the particle averaged over many particles.
• the average value is a number average.
• laser light scattering is utilized to determine the individual sizes of the particles and generate a particle size distribution plot. Based upon the distribution plot, the average particle size can be determined.
• the average particle size is a diameter converted from the meso-pore specific surface area determined by the t-plot method (particle size converted excluding the specific surface area of micro pores of less than 20 Angstrom) .
• the amount of zinc oxide or zirconium oxide may range from about 0.1 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, optimally from about 1 to about 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
• zinc or zirconium oxide particles are applied to skin, it is desirable that they be free of toxic trace metal contaminants.
• a particularly preferred zinc oxide has trace concentrations of lead (less than 20 ppm) , arsenic (less than 3 ppm) , cadmium (less than 15 ppm) and mercury (less than 1 ppm) .
• This material is commercially available from BASF Corporation under the trademark of Z-Cote HP1. These particles are best delivered to the formula as a pre-mix of 5-80% weight by weight suspended in an organic ester base.
• Zinc oxide or zirconium oxide particles of the present invention advantageously but not necessarily are substantially spherical in shape.
• the refractive index of these particles may preferably range from about 1.8 to about 2.3. Measurement of refractive index can be performed according to a method described in J.A. Dean, Ed., Lange's Handbook of Chemistry, 14 th Ed., McGraw Hill, New York 1992, Section 9, Refractometry, incorporated herein by reference.
• a third important component of compositions according to the present invention is that of light reflecting platelet shaped particles. These particles will have an average particle size D 5rj ranging from about 10,000 to about 30,000 nm. For platelike materials the average particle size is a number average value.
• the platelets are assumed to have a circular shape with the diameter of the circular surface averaged over many particles.
• the thickness of the plate-like particles is considered to be a separate parameter. For instance, the platelets can have an average particle size of 35,000 nm and an average thickness of 400 nm. For purposes herein, thickness is considered to range from about 100 to about 600 nm.
• Laser light scattering can be utilized for measurement except that light scattered data has to be mathematically corrected from tXe spherical to the non-spherical shape. Optical and electron microscopy may be used to determine average particle size. Thickness is normally only determined via optical or electron microscopy.
• the refractive index of these particles is preferred to be at least about 1.8, generally from about 1.9 to about 4, more preferably from about 2 to about 3, optimally between about 2.5 and 2.8.
• Illustrative but not limiting examples of light reflecting particles are bismuth oxychloride (single crystal platelets) and titanium dioxide coated mica.
• Suitable bismuth oxychloride crystals are available from EM Industries, Inc. under the trademarks Biron ® NLY-L-2X CO and Biron ® Silver CO (wherein the platelets are dispersed in castor oil) ; Biron ® Liquid Silver (wherein the particles are dispersed in a stearate ester) ; and
• Nailsyn ® IGO, Nailsyn ® II C2X and Nailsyn ® II Platinum 25 (wherein the platelets are dispersed in nitrocellulose) .
• Most preferred is a system where bismuth oxychloride is dispersed in a C 2 -C 40 alkyl ester such as in Biron ® Liquid Silver.
• suitable titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industries, Inc. These include Timiron ® MP-10 (particle size range 10,000-30,000 nm) , Timiron ® MP-14 (particle size range 5,000-30,000 nm) , Timiron ® MP-30 (particle size range 2,000-20,000 nm) , Timiron ® MP-101 (particle size range 5,000-45,000 nm) , Timiron ® MP-111 (particle size range 5,000-40,000 nm) , Timiron ® MP-1001 (particle size range 5,000-20,000 nm) , Timiron ® MP-155 (particle size range 10,000- 40,000 nm), Timiron ® MP-175 (particle size range 10,000-40,000), Timiron ® MP-115 (particle size range 10,000-40,000 nm) , and Timiron ® MP-127 (particle size range 10,000-40,000 nm) .
• the weight ratio of titanium dioxide coating to the mica platelet may range from about 1:10 to about 5:1, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:6, more preferably from about 1:3 to about 1:4 by weight.
• the preferred compositions will generally be substantially free of titanium dioxide outside of that required for coating mica.
• Suitable coatings for mica other than titanium dioxide may also achieve the appropriate optical properties required for the present invention. These types of coated micas must also meet the refractive index of at least about 1.8. Other coatings include silica on the mica platelets.
• the amount of the light reflecting platelet shaped particles may range from about 0.1 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 2%, optimally from about 1 to about 1.5% by weight of the composition.
• the weight ratio of zinc oxide and zirconium oxide to light reflecting platelet shaped particles may range from about 4:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1.5:1, optimally about 2:1 by weight.
• the amount of silicone elastomer and oxide particles relative to the light reflective platelet shaped particles may be present in a ratio from about 10:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 6:1 to about 1:1, more preferably from about 5:1 to about 3:1, optimally about 4:1 by weight.
• compositions of the present invention will have a Reflectance Intensity as measured at a 30° angle ranging from 140 to 170 thousand Watt-nm/cm 2 .
• Light Transmission Intensity advantageously ranges from 4 to 7 million Watt-nm/cm 2 at an angle of 0°; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 1 to 2 million Watt- nm/cm 2 at a 10° angle; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 120 to 140 thousand Watt-nm/cm 2 at a 30° angle; a Transmission Intensity ranging from 60 to 80 thousand Watt-nm/cm 2 at a 40° angle; and a Transmission Intensity ranging from 40 to 60 thousand Watt-nm/cm 2 at a 50° angle.
• compositions of the present invention may include a non-coated mica.
• These mica particles can also be platelets but of thinner and smaller particle size than the coated micas mentioned above.
• Particularly preferred is Satin Mica, available from Merck-Rona. These are useful to remove any excessive glitter imparted by the light scattering platelets.
• the particle size of the non-coated mica is no higher than 15,000 nm and an average (volume) particle size ranging from 1,000 to 10,000 nm, preferably from 5,000 to 8,000 nm.
• the amount of the non-coated mica may range from about 0.05 to about 2%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5%, optimally from about 0.4 to about 0.8% by weight of the composition.
• Advantageously present may also be water-insoluble organic material in the form of polymeric porous spherical particles.
• porous is meant an open or closed cell structure.
• the particles are not hollow beads.
• Average particle size may range from about 0.1 to about 100, preferably from about 1 to about 50, more preferably greater than 5 and especially from 5 to about 15, optimally from about 6 to about 10 ⁇ m.
• Organic polymers or copolymers are the preferred materials and can be formed from monomers including the acid, salt or ester forms of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, methylacrylate, ethylacrylate, ethylene, propylene, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, maleic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone, styrene, butadiene and mixtures thereof.
• the polymers are especially useful in cross-linked form.
• Cells of the porous articles may be filled by a gas which can be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon.
• Oil Absorbance is a measure of porosity and in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may range from about 90 to about 500, preferably from about 100 to about 200, optimally from about 120 to about 180 ml/100 grams. Density of the particles in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may range from about 0.08 to 0.55, preferably from about 0.15 to 0.48 g/cm 3 .
• Illustrative porous polymers include polymethylmethacrylate and cross-linked polystyrene. Most preferred is polymethyl methacrylate available as Ganzpearl ® GMP 820 available from Presperse, Inc., Piscataway, New Jersey, known also by its INCI name of Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer.
• Amounts of the water-insoluble polymeric porous particles may range from about 0.01 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5%, optimally from about 0.3 to about 2% by weight of the composition.
• taurate homopolymers and copolymers are especially useful wherein the taurate repeating monomer unit is acryloyl dimethyl taurate (in either free acid or salt form) .
• Monomers forming the copolymer with taurate may include: styrene, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro-styrene, dialkylamino-styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide and mixtures thereof.
• the term "acid” means not only the free acid but also C ⁇ -C 30 alkyl esters, anhydrides and salts thereof.
• the salts may be ammonium, alkanolammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts. Most preferred are the ammonium and alkanolammonium salts .
• copolymer is Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/Vinyl Pyrrolidone Copolymer, which is the INCI nomenclature, for a material supplied by Clariant Corporation under the trademark Aristoflex ® AVC, having the following general formula:
• n and m are integers which may independently vary from 1 to 10 , 000 .
• Number average molecular weight of copolymers according to the invention may range from about 1,000 to about 3,000,000, preferably from about 3,000 to about 100,000, optimally from about 10,000 to about 80,000.
• Amounts of the associative polymer may range from about 0.001 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 5%, optimally from about 0.2 to about 1% by weight of the composition.
• a crystalline structurant advantageously may be present in compositions according to the present invention.
• the structurant may include both a surfactant and a co-surfactant .
• the nature of the surfactant and co-surfactant will depend upon whether the crystalline structurant is anionic or nonionic.
• the preferred surfactants are C ⁇ 0 - C 22 fatty acids and salts (i.e. soap) thereof and particularly combinations of these materials.
• Typical counterions forming the fatty acid salt are those of ammonium, sodium, potassium, lithium, trialkanolammonium (e.g. triethanolammonium) and combinations thereof.
• Amounts of the fatty acid to the fatty acid salt when both present may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
• Illustrative fatty acids include behenic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, hydroxystearic acid and combinations thereof. Most preferred is stearic acid. Among the fatty acid salts the most preferred is sodium stearate .
• the co-surfactant for an anionic crystalline structurant typically is a C10-C22 fatty alcohol, a C1-C200 ester of a C ⁇ 0 -C 22 fatty acid and particularly combinations of these materials .
• Relative amounts of the ester to the alcohol when both present may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
• Typical fatty alcohols include behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and combinations thereof.
• Esters of the fatty acid preferably are polyol esters such as C 2 -C 3 alkoxylated alcohol esters.
• polyethoxy, polypropoxy and block polyethyoxy/polypropoxy alcohol esters are particularly preferred.
• esters as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-80 laurate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-100 palmitate, PEG-20 palmitate and combinations thereof.
• the relative amount of surfactant and co-surfactant for the anionic structurant may range from about 50:1 to about 1:50, preferably from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
• Nonionic type crystalline structurant will have a surfactant and a co-surfactant different than that for the anionic systems.
• Preferred nonionic structurant surfactants are C ⁇ -C 20 o esters of C ⁇ 0 - C 22 fatty acid.
• Esters of the fatty acid preferably are polyol esters such as C 2 -C 3 alkoxylated alcohol or sorbitol esters. Among these are the polyethoxy, polypropoxy and block polyethoxy/polypropoxy alcohol esters.
• esters as Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-80 laurate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-100 palmitate, PEG-20 palmitate and combinations thereof.
• the co-surfactant of a nonionic structurant typically may be a combination of a C ⁇ o-C 22 fatty alcohol, glyceryl esters of a C 10 -C2 fatty acid, and a C ⁇ 0 -C 22 unesterified fatty acid.
• Relative amounts of the ester to the alcohol may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
• Relative amounts of the combination of glyceryl ester and fatty alcohol to unesterified fatty acid may range from about 100:1 to about 1:100, preferably from about 50:1 to about 1:50, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
• Typical fatty alcohols include behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and combinations thereof.
• the relative amount of surfactant and co-surfactant in a nonionic structurant may range from about 50:1 to about 1:50, preferably from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and optimally from about 3:1 to about 1:3 by weight.
• a crystalline structurant is formed by the surfactant and co- surfactant.
• the surfactant and co-surfactant combination in their relative ratio and type of material is defined by an enthalpy which may range from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 2.5 to about 12, and optimally from about 3.5 to about 8 Joules per gram, as measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry.
• the crystalline structurant system advantageously may have a melting point ranging from about 30 to about 70°C, preferably from about 45 to about 65°C, and optimally from about 50 to about 60°C.
• a rheometer that has a shear rate mode capability and a normal force transducer is utilized to measure the high shear normal force. These devices are available from Rheometric Scientific ARES, TA Instruments AR2000, and Paar Physica MCR. Samples are compressed between concentric parallel plates of diameter 25 mm and gap (vertical distance between the two plates) of 100 microns. The measurements are made in a continuous logarithmic shear sweep mode with a shear rate range of 1 to 10,000 s "1 . Each sweep takes 5 minutes and is conducted at ambient condition (20-
• the normal force is calculated by subtracting the baseline
• a positive normal force of 5 grams and especially 10 grams or greater is correlated to products/materials with silky sensations during rubbing in application.
• soft focus is enhanced when the normal force ranges from about +5 to about +100 grams.
• Particularly desirable is a positive normal force in the range from about +10 to about +60, optimally from about +25 to about +40 grams.
• compositions of the present invention may be present in the compositions of the present invention. Foremost is that of water which serves as a carrier in the carrier system. Amounts of water may range from about 1 to about 90%, preferably from about 30 to about 80%, optimally from about 50 to about 80% by weight of the composition.
• Emollient materials may be included as carriers in compositions of this invention. These may be in the form of silicone oils, synthetic esters and hydrocarbons. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from about 0.1 to about 95%, preferably between about 1 and about 50% by weight of the composition.
• Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety.
• volatile refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature (20-25°C) .
• Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms.
• Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers.
• the essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 x 10 "s to 0.1 m 2 /s at 25°C.
• the preferred nonvolatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 1 x 10 ⁇ 5 to about 4 x 10 "4 m/s at 25°C.
• ester emollients are:
• Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.
• Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
• Polyhydric alcohol esters Ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di- fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3- butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters. Particularly useful are pen
• Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax.
• Sterols esters of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples thereof.
• Sugar ester of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate.
• Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers include petrolatum, mineral oil, Cn-C ⁇ 3 isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, and especially isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyl 101A from Presperse Inc.
• Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type can be employed as cosmetically acceptable carriers .
• Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1, 2, 6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof.
• the amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 50%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition. Most preferred is glycerol (also known as glycerin) . Amounts of glycerin may range from about 10% to about 50%, preferably from 12 to 35%, optimally from 15 to 30% by weight of the composition.
• Sunscreen actives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. These will be organic compounds having at least one chromophoric group absorbing within the ultraviolet ranging from 290 to 400 nm. Chromophoric organic sunscreen agents may be divided into the following categories (with specific examples) including: p- aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid) ; anthranilates (o- aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (octyl, amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and dipropyleneglycol esters) ; cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters
• 2-ethylhexyl p- methoxycinnamate 4,4'-t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2, 2 -dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl 4- [bis (hydroxypropyl) ] aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3 , 3- diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate,
• Amounts of the organic sunscreen agent will range from about 0.1 to about 15%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, optimally from about 1% to about 8% by weight of the composition.
• Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms.
• Suitable traditional preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid.
• Other preservatives which have more recently come into use include tiydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds.
• Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to provide product stability.
• preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol.
• the preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion.
• Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.
• compositions of the present invention may also contain vitamins.
• Illustrative water-soluble vitamins are Niacinamide, Vitamin B 2 , Vitamin B 6 , Vitamin C and Biotin.
• useful water-insoluble vitamins are Vitamin A (retinol) , Vitamin A Palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin E (tocopherol) , Vitamin E Acetate and DL- panthenol .
• Total amount of vitamins when present in compositions according to the present invention may range from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
• Desquamation agents are further optional components.
• Illustrative are the alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids and salts of these acids. Among the former are salts of glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid.
• Salicylic acid is representative of the beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. Amounts of these materials when present may range from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight of the composition.
• compositions of this invention may optionally be included in compositions of this invention.
• Illustrative are pomegranate, white birch (Betula Alba) , green tea, chamomile, licorice and extract combinations thereof.
• the extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents.
• Opacity is the measure of intensity attenuation of a transmitted light beam shone perpendicular to a medium or film. The higher the direct beam attenuation, the greater will be the opacity.
• the source of the light beam attenuation is two fold: A) Some of the original light is reflected back from the film/medium. This gives the film/medium a true white/opaque appearance with great hiding power. Using pigment-grade Ti0 2 in a formulation will give the effect. B) Some of the light is deflected from the straight beam path but still transmitted through the film/medium. In effect, the film/medium goes from being transparent to translucent, creating a "blurred" image. Another term for this is soft focus.
• Procedure Apply (or draw down) a 3 mil (76.2 ⁇ m) film of a formulation using a draw down bar on to a plastic overhead transparency sheet. Let the film dry for 2 hours at room temperature. Take the coated overhead transparency and place it in an Instrument Systems goniospectrophotometer. Set the light source and detector arrayed in a straight line perpendicular to the coated transparency. The light source (set at 209 million Watt-nm/cm 2 , which serves as a reference for all Transmission Intensity values reported herein) is turned on and the measurement of the transmitted light intensity is made. Further measurements are made by moving the detector 10, 30, 40, 50 degrees away from the direct transmission normal. These values indicate the extent of soft focus light scattering.
• the Reflectance or "radiance" of a product is determined in the same way as opacity/soft focus light scattering, except for the positions of the light source and detector.
• the detector is 30 degrees on one side of the normal/perpendicular, while the light source is 20 degrees on the other side.
• To determine the extent of the intensity attenuation compare the intensity value to that of an uncoated overhead transparency. The difference between these two values is the extent of the attenuation or opacity.
• Sample 1 is a preferred embodiment of the present invention.
• Transmission Intensity (Opacity) at all angles and Reflection Intensity for this formula fell within the parameters necessary to achieve both soft focus and radiance.
• Replacement of the silicone elastomer (Dow Corning 9045) with cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning 245) in Sample 2 resulted in a Transmission Intensity at four angles outside the acceptability ranges.
• Sample 3 the zinc oxide was omitted.
• the Transmission Intensity was also outside four of the acceptable ranges indicating the necessity of zinc oxide to achieve soft focus.
• Sample 9 On an equivalent weight basis Sample 9 provided a Transmission Intensity which was within the acceptability range. By contrast, the titanium dioxide Sample Nos. 10, 11 and 12 were outside the acceptable range.

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