Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
  • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
  • A41D31/24—Resistant to mechanical stress, e.g. pierce-proof
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
  • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
  • A41D31/08—Heat resistant; Fire retardant
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/513—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads heat-resistant or fireproof
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
  • D10B2331/021—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides aromatic polyamides, e.g. aramides
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
  • Y10T442/3008—Woven fabric has an elastic quality
  • Y10T442/3024—Including elastic strand or strip
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
  • Y10T442/3049—Including strand precoated with other than free metal or alloy
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
  • Y10T442/413—Including an elastic strand
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
  • Y10T442/419—Including strand precoated with other than free metal or alloy

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a textile based on a mixture of cellulosic fibers, for example cotton and technical fibers resistant to abrasion. More particularly, the subject of the invention is a fabric with a "blue-jean" appearance, or more generally having the appearance of cotton canvas, which is intended for making pants, jackets, jackets, gloves, etc .... Fabrics having qualities during abrasive shocks - for example the shocks undergone by the clothes of a biker when the latter makes a fall - are known in the prior art.
• American patent US 4,920,000 describes a monolayer fabric comprising two threads, a so-called “comfort” natural thread and a “technical” thread with high abrasion and temperature resistance properties, these two threads being woven in a weave defining at least two distinct portions in the thickness of the fabric, a first exterior portion, predominantly technical yarn, and a second interior portion, predominantly comfort yarn, said portions being at least partially entangled.
• the technical thread used in the invention described in this patent is an intimate mixture of different materials, natural and artificial, each having a specific technical role, the periphery of the thread being of the same composition as the center of the latter.
• the technical yarn thus obtained is only very partially covered on the surface, and the part of this yarn made of synthetic material is very exposed, which does not make it possible to resolve the disadvantages of textiles based on artificial yarns described above, especially in terms of visual appearance and comfort.
• such a technical thread does not make it possible to color the fabric obtained, because either the dyes are very poorly retained by the synthetic materials used for the technical fibers, or polyester and polyamide are used which are dyed well, but for which touch and shine are problematic in terms of the appearance of the fabric obtained, as well as in terms of technical performance which is lower.
• the main object of the present invention is to provide a fabric which makes it possible to reduce the performance gap between technical textiles and textiles intended for clothing.
• the object of the invention is to provide a fabric which makes it possible to solve the technical problems of fabrics known in the prior art, and therefore has excellent mechanical properties, in particular resistance to fire, high temperatures and abrasion, which allows the dyes applied to it to be held at a level at least equal to that which fabrics in natural material - for example cellulosic (cotton or linen in particular) - and which is as comfortable to wear as these.
• the object of the invention is achieved with a monolayer fabric comprising two threads, a thread of cellulosic material called "comfort" and a technical thread with high properties of resistance to abrasion and temperature, these two threads being woven or knitted so as to define at least two distinct portions in the thickness of the fabric, a first exterior portion, predominantly technical yarn, and a second interior portion, predominantly comfort yarn, said portions being at least partially entangled.
• the invention is more particularly characterized in that the technical yarn is a yarn, produced from continuous filaments, preferably non-textured, technical yarn whose core is covered over at least 75%, preferably at least 85%, of its surface by a coating comprising at least partially natural fibers.
• This fabric has excellent mechanical and textile qualities (in terms of ease of weaving on the one hand, and comfort on the other hand), and it is intended in particular for motorcyclists, or users of skateboards or “skateboards”"," roller skates “, bikes, snowboards or” snowboards “providing them with protection, comfort and looks. Due to its monolayer design, it is intended for making light clothing that can be worn next to the skin and offering excellent abrasion protection in the event of a fall. Protection is provided by the extreme abrasion resistance of the technical thread, which is mainly contained in the outer portion of the fabric.
• abrasion-resistant material is meant a material whose hardness and coefficient of friction are such that it allows it to be practically equivalent during abrasion resistance tests in real conditions to competition leathers approved by the French Motorcycling Federation, according to standard no prEN 13595-2.
• tests carried out on different textile samples have shown the results described below.
• the method used is not exactly the standardized method but it is approached by the stages involved, and by its reproducibility.
• samples with an area of 80 mm by 50 mm were tested, placed under a weighted support of approximately 10 kg, which is brought into direct contact with a dry road surface, of average particle size. The weighted support is put in translation until all the warp threads are completely torn.
• the textiles obtained according to the invention although they make it possible to preserve the external appearance of a 100% cotton fabric, demonstrate performances much superior to those of 100% cotton fabrics of the blue-jean type, and in some cases, performances almost identical to those obtained with leathers used in competition by the Federation
• the warp effect can be obtained by the titrations of the threads used (for example larger in warp than in weft) or else by the weave itself
• the fabric is obtained by weaving, the weft thread constituting the comfort thread, and the warp thread, the technical thread.
• the weave used is of the chain effect type, but having floats less than or equal to 4 threads, preferably a twill 3/1 (float of 3) or twill 2/1 (float of 2).
• twill, satin and canvas are the least suitable.
• the twill in its 3/1 or 2/1 version is the basic weave of denim, so it is the ideal weave in terms of the appearance of the fabric for an imitation blue-jean.
• any weave can be envisaged provided that the combination of the latter and of the son titrations promotes the presence of the warp yarns on the outside surface and promotes the presence of the weft yarns inside.
• the fabric can be stretch weft or fixed.
• the fabric is obtained by knitting.
• the comfort thread is a thread of cellulose material, associated with an elastic thread, to give a thread called "stretch thread".
• the fabric firstly deforms thanks to the elasticity of the elastic weft, which makes it possible to absorb part of the energy received by the fabric at the time of shock, then the rest of the energy released by the friction of the fabric on the roadway, is absorbed by the technical warp thread, which must then itself have sufficient abrasion resistance properties - in other words resistance to sufficiently high compression and a sufficiently low coefficient of friction - so as not to degrade.
• the core of the abrasion-resistant technical thread is advantageously made of a material whose melting point is greater than 250 ° C., preferably greater than 400 ° C.
• materials having an extremely high melting point such as meta- and para-aramid. During an abrasive shock causing their temperature to rise, these materials first lose their mechanical characteristics, then degrade without melting.
• a core fusible at 130 ° C. such as polyethylene or at 260 ° C. such as certain nylons (polyamide 6-6), but with design precautions such as the coating of this core with compounds. with a high melting point such as polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) for example.
• PTFE polytetrafluoroethylene
• the choice of the material of the technical core is very important and constitutes a first step.
• the latter is made of a material chosen from the group of para-aramids, meta-aramids, silicone resins, fluorinated resins of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) type, resins filled with glass (or ceramic), alumina, polyethylene-based resins, or a combination of these materials together.
• PTFE polytetrafluoroethylene
• Still other materials can be used such as polyamides, polyesters, polyethylene for example, as long as these materials have sufficient abrasion resistance properties, as defined in the context of the present description.
• a suitable structure for the core of the technical thread which can be obtained in several ways: firstly by twisting of threads, for example a para-aramid or twisted glass thread with a PTFE or silicone wire, all in continuous fibers, secondly by spinning, combing (that is to say by intimate mixing) of these materials in the form of continuous fibers, thirdly by coating and / or impregnation (silicone, PTFE ...) of a core made of para-aramid fiber in particular, or any combination of these alternatives.
• This complex thread - or core - is then either wrapped with thread having textile qualities such as cotton, linen, wool ...
• the coating of the technical fiber is carried out by wrapping in double helical cover with a cotton thread, or wool.
• the coating of the technical fiber is carried out by coating, with or without impregnation, of the technical fiber in a bath of a mixture of fluorinated resin, silicone, acrylate , or equivalent polymer resin, saturated with ultra-short natural fibers. This operation is applied directly to the core wire (s), the objectives being:
• the present invention relates to a monolayer fabric comprising two threads, a thread of cellulosic material called "comfort” and a technical thread with high properties of resistance to abrasion and to temperature.
• the comfort thread made of cellulosic material will be described as a cotton thread, which is the preferred material among the cellulosic materials grouping in particular: cotton, linen, viscose, or acetate.
• “monolayer” fabric it is meant that the fabric produced in a single layer makes it possible to ensure both comfort thanks to the majority presence inside, weft threads (material comfort and elasticity) and mechanical resistance. thanks to the majority presence outside, warp threads (resistance of the material and appearance given by the covering).
• the two threads are woven in a weave defining at least two distinct portions in the thickness of the fabric, a first portion, exterior, predominantly technical thread, and a second portion, interior, predominantly comfort thread, said portions being at least partially entangled.
• this fabric according to the invention is obtained by weaving, the weft thread being constituted by the comfort thread, and the warp thread by the technical thread. More particularly, the weave used is a 3/1 or 2/1 twill.
• the weft, white in color as in the case of blue jeans, consists of cotton threads, in order to provide the comfort required for the almost daily use of the clothes made with the fabric according to the invention. These cotton threads are completed with elastane to obtain good elasticity, and therefore good extensibility of the fabric.
• the weft used here is a carded yarn, (or combed for greater tensile strength), of 1/12 Nm +/- 100% titration (or twisted 2/24 Nm for even more toughness) and added with elastane (1% to 8% of the finished fabric).
• the chain blue in color as in the case of blue jeans, consists of a covered technical thread.
• This technical thread has resistance qualities with abrasion, qualities of low coefficient of friction, as well as qualities not fire. It is a para-aramid 440 Dtex with non-textured continuous filaments (i.e. a single core).
• the technical yarn is covered over more than 85% of its surface by a coating comprising at least partially natural fibers.
• the coating of the technical core is carried out by covering in a double helical cover with a cotton thread.
• This allows excellent comfort in summer, thanks to the lightness of the fabric obtained, and thanks to its good sweat absorption capacity, while preserving an appearance of 100% cotton fabric.
• the covering is made in double cover (2 wires surround the core helically), so as to obtain a cover of
• the cover threads are very fine, that is to say with a titration of less than 1/80 Nm, and made of natural fibers, cotton or wool.
• the covering material is a 100% combed long fiber cotton for fabrics to be used for summer clothes, or a 100% combed wool for fabrics to be used for winter clothes .
• the covering thread fulfills the functions of receiving dye particles, comfort, hydrophilicity, but above all of concealing the technical core around which it is arranged, the latter providing the function abrasion resistance. After weaving, the finishing does not require any particular attention, we can even consider piece dyeing or conventional surface treatments (printing, water-repellent coating ).
• the flexibility in the weft direction is given by the elasticity of the weft threads and the flexibility in the warp direction, although being weaker, is given by the Young's modulus of the core material which must be low. This has the effect of considerably delaying the appearance of a hole in the fabric.
• the fabric in the case of woven-dyed
• the fabric thus obtained strongly resembles denim.
• the use of such a fabric offers possibilities of new creativity for stylists; worn next to the skin for pants, or lined for jackets, in all possible colors, woven-dyed and piece dye, it offers real protection during a fall on a motorcycle for example.
• it does not melt in the event of fire or prolonged abrasion and does not degrade either to UV or to hydrocarbons.
• the weaves used for weaving the comfort yarn and the technical yarn may vary, as long as the weave chosen favors the presence of the technical yarn in the portion of the fabric located outside of the latter, and simultaneously promotes the presence majority of comfort thread in the interior portion of the fabric.
• this structure allows different armor depending on the mode (half-braided, chevron, etc.).

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• 2003
  • 2003-10-20 FR FR0312244A patent/FR2860957B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2004
  • 2004-10-06 WO PCT/FR2004/002522 patent/WO2005041704A1/fr active IP Right Grant
  • 2004-10-06 US US10/576,651 patent/US20070249250A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2004-10-06 DE DE200460007816 patent/DE602004007816T2/de active Active
  • 2004-10-06 KR KR1020067009004A patent/KR101122622B1/ko active IP Right Grant
  • 2004-10-06 CN CN2004800307476A patent/CN1870915B/zh active Active
  • 2004-10-06 EP EP20040791476 patent/EP1675487B1/fr active Active
  • 2004-10-06 JP JP2006536110A patent/JP4685790B2/ja active Active
  • 2004-10-06 AT AT04791476T patent/ATE367746T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2004-10-06 ES ES04791476T patent/ES2291953T3/es active Active
• 2006
  • 2006-05-19 NO NO20062283A patent/NO327385B1/no not_active IP Right Cessation

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