WO1999062478A1 - Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou un extrait de the vert - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou un extrait de the vert Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999062478A1
WO1999062478A1 PCT/EP1999/003777 EP9903777W WO9962478A1 WO 1999062478 A1 WO1999062478 A1 WO 1999062478A1 EP 9903777 W EP9903777 W EP 9903777W WO 9962478 A1 WO9962478 A1 WO 9962478A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
catechins
esters
acid
skin
green tea
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PCT/EP1999/003777
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Volker Schreiner
Uwe SCHÖNROCK
Franz STÄB
Heiner Max
Konrad Sandhoff
Thomas Döring
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to EP99926491A priority Critical patent/EP1082100A1/fr
Priority to JP2000551735A priority patent/JP2002516835A/ja
Publication of WO1999062478A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999062478A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing catechins or extract of green tea containing catechins or extract of green tea
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular sensitive and dry skin, as well as particularly in the foreground of skin aged or aging due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, and the use thereof Active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • the horny layer of the skin is characterized by a special structure that on the one hand protects the skin against loss of vital cell water or the penetration of external pollutants and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water: intercellular lipids, consisting of free sterols and fatty acids as well as different ceramide classes, form within the layers a barrier in the form of extracellular, multilamellar and water-impermeable membrane systems.
  • the lipid membranes surround the dead corneocytes with embedded hygroscopic substances.
  • the Hom layer is in a constant process of renewal, whereby fine scales (corneocytes with adhering lipids) are continuously released to the outside and cell and lipid material horned from the inside is reproduced. In balance, the regeneration process does not change the transepidermal water loss.
  • the lipid composition and amount of the homolayer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin of younger and older people deviate from the normal condition found in healthy, normally hydrated skin of an equal age group.
  • the changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema represent an extreme case for the deviations that are found in the dry skin of healthy people.
  • These deviations particularly affect the ceramides, which are greatly reduced in their quantity and are also composed differently. What is striking is the deficit in ceramides 1 and 3, it being known in particular for ceramide 1 that it increases the order of the lipids in the intercellular membrane systems in a special way.
  • Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the type described above may be due to remotely controlled lipid biosynthesis and also ultimately increase transepidermal water loss.
  • a long-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes the healthy skin more sensitive and in individual cases can contribute to the development of eczematous processes in the diseased skin.
  • the effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the home layer usually does not consist in restoring or strengthening the physicochemical properties of the lamellae made of intercellular lipids.
  • a major partial effect is due to the mere covering of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying layer. Applied hygroscopic substances bind the water so that there is a measurable increase in the water content in the hom layer.
  • this purely physical barrier can be removed relatively easily.
  • the skin quickly returns to the state it was in before the treatment started.
  • the skin care effect can diminish with regular treatment, so that the status quo is finally reached again even during treatment. With certain products, the condition of the skin may temporarily deteriorate after discontinuation.
  • a sustainable product effect is therefore generally not achieved or only to a limited extent.
  • these objects are also the use of catechins or gailensate esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailensate esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the plant family
  • Theaceae in particular the Species Camellia sinensis (green tea) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids), for the prophylaxis, treatment and / or care of dry skin conditions.
  • Catechins are a group of compounds that can be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins.
  • the catechins form the basic substance of a number of natural oligomeric or polymeric tanning agents, e.g. B. in tea. They occur together with other phenols in many types of fruit and are involved in the browning of pressure and interfaces (e.g. in apples) catalyzed by phenol oxidases.
  • the basic body the "catechin” (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) is widespread in plants and occurs for example in the catechu. It is due to the structural formula
  • the epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an epimer of catechin and is of the structural formula characterized.
  • the objects of the invention are also achieved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing plant extracts containing catechins, in particular preparations containing extracts of green tea.
  • Tea comes exclusively from leaves, leaf buds and delicate stems of the tea bush (Camellia sinensis L.), which are processed using methods such as withering, rolling, fermenting, crushing and drying.
  • Black tea is a fermented tea
  • oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea, the leaves of which are wilted. Rolls ferment only half of the usual time and then dried.
  • Green tea is an unfermented product, the leaves of which are blanched, rolled and dried while preserving the natural leaf color.
  • black tea contains 18.9% catechins and catechin tannins, 16.6% proteins, 2.7% caffeine, 10.2% other nitrogen compounds, 4.6%> oligosaccharides, 0.6% starch, 11, 9 % Pectin, 7.9% cellulose and 6.1% lignin.
  • Fresh leaves have essentially the same composition, but contain more catechins (26%), less nitrogen compounds (8.7%, with the same caffeine content) and 0.8% inositol.
  • Around 80% of the polyphenol tannins contain catechins (main constituent galloyl - (-) - epigallocatechin).
  • extracts from leaves of the plants of the order Theales with the Theaceae family in particular the species Camellia spec, especially the tea varieties Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis, and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica the Increase the synthesis rate of ceramides in human skin in general, but especially the synthesis rate of ceramides 1, 2 and 3 by a multiple.
  • green tea also contains the bile acid esters of these active compounds, which are likewise active according to the invention.
  • the invention furthermore relates to the use of catechins or gailensate esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailensate esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea ) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids), to stimulate sphingolipid synthesis or to strengthen the lipid barrier of human skin.
  • catechins or gailensate esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailensate esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea ) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids), to stimulate sphingolipid
  • Skin care products according to the invention advantageously contain 0.0001-20 percent by weight of catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins, preferably polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) Catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (- ) -Epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight of catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins, based on the total composition of the Preparations.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention very particularly preferably contain 0.01-1% by weight of catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins on the overall composition of the preparations.
  • the topical preparations according to the invention can be formulated as liquid, pasty or solid preparations, for example as aqueous or alcoholic solutions, aqueous suspensions, emulsions, ointments, creams, gels, oils, powders or sticks.
  • active ingredients can be incorporated into pharmaceutical and cosmetic bases for topical applications, which include, for example, oil components, fat and waxes, emulsifiers, anionic, cationic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants, and low mono- and polyvalent surfactants Contain alcohols, water, preservatives, buffer substances, thickeners, fragrances, dyes and opacifiers.
  • the active compounds according to the invention can advantageously also be used in transdermal therapeutic systems, in particular cubic systems.
  • additives such as vitamins, coenzymes, substrates and auxiliary factors of lipid metabolism or energy metabolism or other cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries or active ingredients to the caring topical preparations, for example pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, uridine, L-serine, weak carboxylic acids, whose pKa value is between 3 and 5.5 (e.g. lactic acid and propionic acid), citric acid, pyruvate and cellular energy transfer agents (e.g. creatine, guanine, guanosine, adenine, adenosine, nicotine, nicotinamide, riboflavin), coenzymes (e.g.
  • coenzyme Q 10 pantothenic acid, panthenol, lipoic acid), auxiliary factors (e.g. L-camitin), substrates (e.g. hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids), taurocholic acid, lipids (e.g. ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, sphinosine, sphingomyelin, glucocerebroside), substrates (e.g. Hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids), glutathione and / or natural moisturizing factors (e.g. amino acids, urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, glycerin).
  • substrates e.g. hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids
  • taurocholic acid lipids (e.g. ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, sphinosine, sphingomyelin, glucocerebroside)
  • substrates e.g. Hexoses, pen
  • antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilaurylthiodi- propionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, pen
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
  • UVB filter substances if they contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • 1,3,5-triazine preferably 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.
  • UVB filters which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoyl methane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-di-one and 1-phenyl- 3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • the invention therefore also relates to the combinations of the active compounds according to the invention, in particular in the topical preparations, with antioxidants, substances of aerobic cellular energy metabolism and / or UV absorbers, by means of which, for example, the stability and the effect of the preparation can be improved.
  • protective formulation forms can be used, the substances according to the invention being encapsulated, for example, in liposomes, micelles, nanospheres, etc. from, for example, hydrogenated amphiphiles, such as, for example, ceramides, fatty acids, sphingomyelin and phosphoglycerides, or in cyclodextrans. Further protection can be achieved by using protective gas (eg N 2 , CO 2 ) in the formulation and by using gas-tight packaging forms.
  • protective gas eg N 2 , CO 2
  • auxiliaries and additives can be water-binding substances, thickeners, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, active substances such as vitamins, preservatives, water and / or salts.
  • the groups of substances according to the invention can be incorporated into all cosmetic basics. Basically, however, W / O and O / W and W / O / W emulsions, hydrodispersions and lipodispersions are preferred. Combinations according to the invention can be used particularly advantageously in care products such as O / W creams, W / O creams, O / W lotions, etc.
  • the lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids; Alkyl benzoates; Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- Atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl Hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg Jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2- 2- 5 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • mixtures of 2- C ⁇ ⁇ 5 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate mixtures of 2- C ⁇ ⁇ 5 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12 - ⁇ s benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ⁇ 2- ⁇ s benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers and analog products, furthermore alcohols with a low C number, e.g.
  • ethanol isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives , for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • thickeners which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives , for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of
  • gels are understood to mean: Relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems composed of at least two components, which as a rule consist of a - usually solid - colloidally divided substance made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g. gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold and a liquid dispersant (e.g. water) exist.
  • the colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickening or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, whereby individual colloidal particles can be more or less firmly linked to one another via electrostatic interaction.
  • the dispersant which surrounds the network is distinguished by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (in particular: water), whereas a predominantly non-polar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.
  • a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (in particular: water)
  • a predominantly non-polar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.
  • Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels, and is preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels, and is preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also be designed, for example, as foam and shower baths, solid and liquid soaps or so-called “syndets" (synthetic detergents), shampoos, hand-washing pastes, intimate detergents, special cleaning agents for small children and the like.
  • Preparations according to the invention can, if appropriate, advantageously be distinguished by a content of surfactants.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, easier removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and - if desired - foam regulation.
  • hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues.
  • Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
  • B + any cation, eg Na +
  • Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • Anionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • acylglutamates for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • Sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • carboxylic acids for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as, for example, DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and di-laureth-4 phosphate,
  • acyl isethionates e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • alkyl sulfonates for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ⁇ . 2 . 1 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate
  • Alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, Tl-PA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12 . 13 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge.
  • Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous.
  • the cationic surfactants used in the invention can be also preferably selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, for example benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, also alkyltrialkylammonium, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, droxyethylammoniumchloride Alkyldimethylhy- or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or - bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium , Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.
  • acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously 1. alcohols,
  • alkanolamides such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide
  • esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitol or other alcohols,
  • ethers for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and Lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.
  • the green tea extract is stirred into the water phase.
  • the fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained.
  • the green tea extract is stirred into the water phase.
  • the fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained.
  • (-) - Epigallocatechin Gallat is dissolved in the water phase.
  • the fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained.
  • (-) - Gallocatechin Gallat is dissolved in the water phase, the fat phase is then added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform emulsion has formed.
  • the components are stirred at 25 ° C until a uniform, clear mixture is obtained.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation, pour la prophylaxie, le traitement et/ou les soins relatifs à la peau sèche, de catéchines ou d'esters d'acide biliaire de catéchines, ou bien d'extraits aqueux ou organiques de plantes ou de parties de plantes qui contiennent des catéchines ou des esters d'acide biliaire de catéchines, par exemple de feuilles de végétaux de la famille des Theaceae, en particulier de l'espèce Camellia sinensis (thé vert) ou leurs composants typiques (par exemple des polyphénols ou des catéchines, de la cofféine, des vitamines, du sucre, des minéraux, des aminoacides, des lipides).
PCT/EP1999/003777 1998-06-03 1999-06-01 Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou un extrait de the vert WO1999062478A1 (fr)

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EP99926491A EP1082100A1 (fr) 1998-06-03 1999-06-01 Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou un extrait de the vert
JP2000551735A JP2002516835A (ja) 1998-06-03 1999-06-01 カテキンまたは緑茶抽出液を含有する化粧用もしくは皮膚科用調製剤

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DE19824727.3 1998-06-03
DE19824727A DE19824727A1 (de) 1998-06-03 1998-06-03 Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Catechinen oder einem Gehalt an Extrakt von grünem Tee

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JP2002293736A (ja) * 2001-03-30 2002-10-09 Sunstar Inc メーラード反応阻害剤およびそれを含有する組成物
WO2003009825A2 (fr) * 2001-07-07 2003-02-06 Beiersdorf Ag Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou extraits de the vert pour le traitement et la prevention active des peaux seches et d'autres modifications negatives de l'homeostasie physiologique des peaux saines
WO2003031430A2 (fr) * 2001-10-04 2003-04-17 Brane Tech S.R.L. Composes flavonoides capables de modifier l'etat dynamique et/ou physique de membranes biologiques et de stimuler la synthese endogene de proteines du stress dans des cellules eucaryotes, synthese relative et utilisation de ces composes
JP2003519654A (ja) * 2000-01-14 2003-06-24 カラー アクセス，インコーポレイティド 脈管形成を抑制するためのエピガロカテキンガラートの使用
WO2004012650A3 (fr) * 2002-07-30 2004-04-15 Sederma Sa Compositions cosmetiques ou dermopharmaceutiques comprenant du kombucha.
WO2004045574A1 (fr) * 2002-11-19 2004-06-03 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Produits et methodes servant a maintenir ou a augmenter les taux de ceramides dans la peau
US6749860B2 (en) 2000-12-22 2004-06-15 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Absorbent articles with non-aqueous compositions containing botanicals
US7037535B2 (en) 2002-11-19 2006-05-02 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method and composition for neutralizing house dust mite feces
US20100119469A1 (en) * 2008-11-12 2010-05-13 Draco Natural Products, Inc. Gynostemma extract surfactant/cleaning agent/emulsifier/foaming agent and method of producing same
US7771735B2 (en) 2000-12-22 2010-08-10 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Absorbent articles with compositions for reducing irritation response
EP2218480A3 (fr) * 2000-07-06 2011-01-26 Beiersdorf AG Utilisation de créatine et/ou de dérives de créatine dans des préparations cosmetiques ou dermatologues
US8710034B2 (en) 2000-04-04 2014-04-29 Color Access, Inc. Method and composition for improving skin barrier function
US10022308B2 (en) 2003-07-22 2018-07-17 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Wipe and methods for improving skin health
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JP2001288066A (ja) * 2000-03-31 2001-10-16 Shiseido Co Ltd 皮膚バリアー機能改善剤
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JP3759714B2 (ja) * 2001-12-27 2006-03-29 株式会社資生堂 幹細胞因子の産生・放出の抑制による掻痒、肌荒れ、敏感肌及び美白用薬剤
DE10241395A1 (de) * 2002-09-06 2004-03-18 Alcina Cosmetic Dr. Kurt Wolff Gmbh & Co. Kg Coffein enthaltende Zusammensetzung als Hautpflegemittel
JP5192380B2 (ja) * 2005-09-08 2013-05-08 株式會社アモーレパシフィック 皮膚老化防止用皮膚外用剤組成物
EP2001561A2 (fr) * 2006-03-31 2008-12-17 DSMIP Assets B.V. Nouvelle utilisation de composés et de combinaisons de composés pour améliorer l'aspect physique
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JP5761888B2 (ja) * 2008-09-30 2015-08-12 丸善製薬株式会社 抗老化剤及び皮膚化粧料
EP3369414A1 (fr) * 2017-03-01 2018-09-05 The Boots Company PLC Compositions cosmétiques de soins pour la peau
TWI727206B (zh) * 2017-10-23 2021-05-11 大江生醫股份有限公司 武威山烏皮茶萃取物之應用
FR3116438B1 (fr) * 2020-11-23 2022-10-14 Isp Investments Llc Procede d’obtention d’extraits aqueux de feuilles de thes, compositions comprenant de tels extraits et leurs utilisations cosmetiques

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WO1998010739A1 (fr) * 1996-09-13 1998-03-19 E-L Management Corporation Composition topique et procede associe pour ameliorer la synthese de la barriere lipidique

Cited By (19)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003519654A (ja) * 2000-01-14 2003-06-24 カラー アクセス，インコーポレイティド 脈管形成を抑制するためのエピガロカテキンガラートの使用
US8710034B2 (en) 2000-04-04 2014-04-29 Color Access, Inc. Method and composition for improving skin barrier function
EP2218480A3 (fr) * 2000-07-06 2011-01-26 Beiersdorf AG Utilisation de créatine et/ou de dérives de créatine dans des préparations cosmetiques ou dermatologues
US6749860B2 (en) 2000-12-22 2004-06-15 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Absorbent articles with non-aqueous compositions containing botanicals
US7771735B2 (en) 2000-12-22 2010-08-10 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Absorbent articles with compositions for reducing irritation response
JP2002293736A (ja) * 2001-03-30 2002-10-09 Sunstar Inc メーラード反応阻害剤およびそれを含有する組成物
WO2003009825A2 (fr) * 2001-07-07 2003-02-06 Beiersdorf Ag Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou extraits de the vert pour le traitement et la prevention active des peaux seches et d'autres modifications negatives de l'homeostasie physiologique des peaux saines
WO2003009825A3 (fr) * 2001-07-07 2003-04-17 Beiersdorf Ag Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant des catechines ou extraits de the vert pour le traitement et la prevention active des peaux seches et d'autres modifications negatives de l'homeostasie physiologique des peaux saines
WO2003031430A3 (fr) * 2001-10-04 2004-04-08 Brane Tech S R L Composes flavonoides capables de modifier l'etat dynamique et/ou physique de membranes biologiques et de stimuler la synthese endogene de proteines du stress dans des cellules eucaryotes, synthese relative et utilisation de ces composes
WO2003031430A2 (fr) * 2001-10-04 2003-04-17 Brane Tech S.R.L. Composes flavonoides capables de modifier l'etat dynamique et/ou physique de membranes biologiques et de stimuler la synthese endogene de proteines du stress dans des cellules eucaryotes, synthese relative et utilisation de ces composes
WO2004012650A3 (fr) * 2002-07-30 2004-04-15 Sederma Sa Compositions cosmetiques ou dermopharmaceutiques comprenant du kombucha.
US7585518B2 (en) 2002-11-19 2009-09-08 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Products and methods for maintaining or increasing ceramide levels in skin
US7838025B2 (en) 2002-11-19 2010-11-23 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Products and methods for maintaining or increasing ceramide levels in skin
US7037535B2 (en) 2002-11-19 2006-05-02 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method and composition for neutralizing house dust mite feces
WO2004045574A1 (fr) * 2002-11-19 2004-06-03 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Produits et methodes servant a maintenir ou a augmenter les taux de ceramides dans la peau
US10022308B2 (en) 2003-07-22 2018-07-17 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Wipe and methods for improving skin health
US20100119469A1 (en) * 2008-11-12 2010-05-13 Draco Natural Products, Inc. Gynostemma extract surfactant/cleaning agent/emulsifier/foaming agent and method of producing same
US8557311B2 (en) * 2008-11-12 2013-10-15 DRACO Natural Products Gynostemma extract surfactant/cleaning agent/emulsifier/foaming agent and method of producing same
CN111529434A (zh) * 2020-05-11 2020-08-14 山东农业大学 一种含egcg的唇部预防保健产品及其应用

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