WO1999062478A1 - Cosmetic or dermatologic preparations containing catechins or green tea extract - Google Patents

Cosmetic or dermatologic preparations containing catechins or green tea extract Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999062478A1
WO1999062478A1 PCT/EP1999/003777 EP9903777W WO9962478A1 WO 1999062478 A1 WO1999062478 A1 WO 1999062478A1 EP 9903777 W EP9903777 W EP 9903777W WO 9962478 A1 WO9962478 A1 WO 9962478A1
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Prior art keywords
catechins
example
plants
skin
acid
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PCT/EP1999/003777
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Volker Schreiner
Uwe SCHÖNROCK
Franz STÄB
Heiner Max
Konrad Sandhoff
Thomas Döring
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to DE19824727.3 priority Critical
Priority to DE1998124727 priority patent/DE19824727A1/en
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Publication of WO1999062478A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999062478A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of catechins or bile acid esters of catechin or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or plant parts which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, for example, of the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, especially of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea) or typical constituents thereof (such as, e.g. polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids) for the prophylaxis, treatment and/or care of dry skin conditions.

Description

description

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of catechins or containing green tea extract

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological dermatological preparations comprising active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular the delicate and dry skin as well as most standing in the foreground of the aged by intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, or aging skin, as well as the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such agents in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place is that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences strengthened (for example, dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes).

If this function is impaired, increased resorption of toxic or allergenic substances or attack ner of microorganisms, resulting in toxic or allergic skin reactions.

Another aim of skin care is to compensate for the fat and water loss from the skin caused by daily washing. This is particularly important if the natural regeneration ability is inadequate. Furthermore, skin care products against environmental influences, in particular against sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

The stratum corneum of the skin is characterized by a particular structure of, on the one hand protects the skin from loss of vital cellular water or the ingress of external noxious and secondly their own flexibility stabilized by binding a defined quantity of water: intercellular lipids consisting of free sterols and fatty acids and various Ceramidklassen form within the Hörn- layer is a barrier in the form of extracellular, multilamellar and waterproof membrane systems.

The lipid membranes surround the dead corneocytes with embedded hygroscopic materials. The horny layer is approximately process in a constant renewal, wherein discharged to the outside continuously fine scales (corneocytes with adhering lipids) and is produced from the inside post-keratinized Zeil- and lipid material. In equilibrium, the regeneration process thus causes no change in trans-epidermal water loss.

Even simple water bath without the addition of surfactants will initially to a swelling of the horny layer of the skin, the degree of this swelling depending, for example, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances, eg water-soluble constituents of dirt, but also skin's own substances that are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the horny layer, washed off or out. and skin oils also are solved to a certain extent and washed out skin's natural surfactants. This subsequent significant drying of the skin, which can be enhanced due to the initial swelling by detersive additives.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally of no consequence since the protective mechanisms of the skin can compensate for such slight disturbances to the upper layers of the skin easily. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from the norm, such as environmentally-induced wear damage or irritation, photodamage, aging skin etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under some circumstances it is then on its own is no longer able to fulfill its task and must be regenerated by external measures.

In addition, it is known that lipid composition and quantity of the horny layer of pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin of younger and older people from the normal state is different, which is found in the healthy, normal hydrated skin of a same old age group. The changes in lipid patterns of very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients present with atopic eczema is an extreme case of the deviations, which are found in the dry skin skin of healthy people. These differences are very particularly the ceramides which are greatly reduced in amount and additionally put together differently. It is striking in particular, the lack of ceramides 1 and 3, in particular, is known for the ceramide 1, that it increases in a special way, the order of lipids in the Interzellularmembransystemen.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the previously described type may be based on remote-controlled lipid biosynthesis and also increase in the end the trans-epidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes the skin more sensitive healthy in itself and can contribute to the emergence Einzellfalle eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration of the horny layer is not in a recovery and strengthening of the physicochemical properties of the lamellae comprising intercellular lipids in general. An essential part of effect is due to the mere cover the treated skin areas and the resulting accumulation of water in the underlying horny layer. Coapp- lizierte hygroscopic substances bind the water so that there is a measurable increase in the water content in the horny layer. However, this purely physical barrier can be relatively easily removed. After settling of the product, the skin returns then quickly return to the state prior to treatment back. Moreover, the skin care effect can decrease upon regular treatment so that eventually reached again even during the treatment of the status quo. For certain products, the condition of the skin after discontinuation may deteriorate temporarily. A permanent product effect is therefore not or usually achieved only to a limited extent.

To support the deficient skin in its natural regeneration and to strengthen its physiological function, topical preparations are recently added incrementally Interzellularlipidmischungen, to be used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier. However, it is in these lipids, especially ceramides, are very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually much smaller than hoped. The aim of the present invention was therefore to find ways to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect of skin care products should be physiological, rapid and sustainable.

According to the invention these objects are achieved by subject matter of the invention furthermore relates to the use of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea) and their typical ingredients (eg polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids), for the prevention, treatment and / or care of dry skin conditions.

Catechins are a group of compounds that are regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins. The catechins are the basic substance of a number of natural oligomeric or polymeric tannins, z. As in tea. They come together with other phenols in many fruit species, and are involved in the reaction catalyzed by phenol oxidases Browning pressure and interfaces (z. B. in apples).

The base body, which (chroman-3,5,7-triol catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydro- xyphenyl)) is widely used in plants "catechin" and occurs, for example in catechu. It is by the structural formula

Figure imgf000006_0001
characterized.

Epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) provides an epimer of catechin, and is by the structural formula

Figure imgf000007_0001
characterized.

The objects of the invention are also achieved by cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising plant extracts containing catechins, particularly those preparations which contain extracts of green tea.

Tea comes exclusively from the leaves, leaf buds and tender stems of the tea shrub (Camellia sinensis L.) which are processed by methods such as withering, rolling, fermenting, grinding and drying. Black tea is a fermented tea, Oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea, the leaves to wilt u. Roles are fermented only half the usual time and then dried. Green tea is a non-fermented product whose sheets are blanched, rolled and dried to give the natural leaf dyes.

The composition of the ingredients of the tea leaves varies considerably depending on the origin and treatment. On average, black tea contains 18.9% catechins and catechin tannins, 16.6% protein, 2.7% caffeine, 10.2% other nitrogen compounds, 4.6%> oligosaccharides, 0.6% starch, 11, 9 % pectin, 7.9% cellulose and 6.1% lignin. Fresh leaves have substantially the same composition, but containing more catechins (26%), less nitrogen compounds (8.7%, at the same caffeine content) and 0.8% inositol. In the polyphenolic tannins catechins found to about 80% (main component galloyl - (-) - epigallocatechin).

Surprisingly, it has been found that extracts of leaves of plants of the family Theaceae order Theales with, in particular of the species Camellia spec, very particularly the tea Camellia sinensis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and hybrids of these with, for example, Camellia japonica generally, but 2 and 3 increase the rate of synthesis of ceramides in human skin, in particular the rate of synthesis of ceramides 1, several times.

In addition to the catechins (catechin and epicatechin, for example) contains green tea further the Gallensäureester of these agents, which are also effective in the present invention.

The invention further provides the use of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular of the species Camellia sinensis (Green tea ) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols and catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids), for stimulating the sphingolipid or for strengthening the lipid barrier of human skin.

Skin care products the invention advantageously comprise from 0.0001 to 20 percent by weight of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins, preferably polyphenols and catechins from the group (-) catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epi gallocatechin, (- ) -Epigallocatechingallat.

Preferably cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention from 0.001 to 10 wt .-% of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins, based on the total composition of preparations.

Very particularly preferably cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention from 0.01 to 1 wt .-% of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins, based to the total composition of the preparations. The topical formulations of the invention may be formulated as liquid, paste or solid formulations, for example as aqueous or alcoholic solutions, aqueous suspensions, emulsions, ointments, creams, gels, oils, powders or pins. Depending on the desired formulation ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic bases may be incorporated for topical applications which, anionic, as further components, for example, oil components, fats and waxes, emulsifiers, cationic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants, lower mono- and polyhydric alcohols, water, preservatives, buffering agents, thickening agents, perfumes, dyes and opacifiers. Advantageously, the active compounds can also be used in transdermal therapeutic systems, in particular cubic systems.

It is of advantage to care topical preparations additives such as vitamins, coenzymes, substrates and auxiliary factors of lipid metabolism or energy metabolism, or other cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries or active ingredients to add, for example, pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, uridine, L-serine, weak carboxylic acids, whose pK value between 3 to 5.5 (eg, lactic acid and propionic acid), citric acid, pyruvate as well as cellular energy transfer (eg cre- tin, guanine, guanosine, adenine, adenosine, nicotine, nicotinamide, riboflavin), coenzymes (for example, coenzyme Q 10, pantothenic acid, panthenol, lipoic acid), auxiliary factors (for example, L-carnitine), substrates (for example, hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids), taurocholic acid, lipids (for example, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, Sphinosin, sphingomyelin, Glucocere- broside), substrates (for example, hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids), glutathione and / or natural Befeuchtungsfaktoren (eg, amino acids, urea, pyrrolidone, glycerol).

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives advantageous imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (for example α-carotene, .beta.-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilaurylthiodi- propionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as Sulfoximinverbindun- conditions (for example Buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine ​​sulfoximine, Buthioninsulfone, penta-, He - Xa, Heptathioninsulfoximin) (in very low tolerated doses, for example pmol to .mu.mol / kg), also (metal) chelating agents (for example α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg, γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, As corbylacetat), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin e acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, Butylhy- droxytoluol, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäu- acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, man ose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO 4) selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the present invention suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars , these active compounds mentioned nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen. These preferably additionally contain, besides the active compound combinations according to the invention at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless have a content of UV protection substances. For example, are usually incorporated UV-A and UV-B filter substances into day creams.

Also, UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, gewünschten- if, preservatives, an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Advantageously, the preparations according to the invention can also comprise substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances eg wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, is 0.1 based on the total weight of the preparations, cosmetic preparations to provide that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or the skin.

Containing inventive preparations UVB filter substances, these can be oil-soluble or water soluble. According to the invention advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters are:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

3-benzylidenecamphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid-

(2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoesäureamylester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-

methoxycinnamate;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl), homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,

2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonate (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

Derivatives of 1, 3,5-triazine, preferably 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used in combination with the novel active ingredient combinations is of course not to be limiting.

It may also be advantageous to formulate preparations according to the invention with UVA filters which have usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-di- one, and by 1-phenyl- 3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione. The invention thus also the combinations of active compounds, particularly in the topical formulations, with antioxidants, substances of aerobic cellular energy metabolism and / or UV absorbers, can improve the stability and the effect of the preparation by, for example.

The examples listed above for combinable active substances from the active compound groups mentioned serve to describe the invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples.

In addition, protective formulation forms can be used, the substances according to the invention etc. are included, for example, in liposomes, micelles, nanospheres, for example, hydrogenated amphiphiles, such as ceramides, fatty acids, sphingomyelin and phosphoglycerides, or in cyclodextrans (encapsulated) are. Further protection can be achieved by the use of protective gas (eg N 2, CO 2) in the formulation and the use of gas-tight packaging forms.

Other auxiliaries and additives may be water-binding substances, thickeners, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, active substances such as vitamins, preservatives, water and / or salts.

The groups of substances according to the invention can be incorporated into all cosmetic bases. However, W / O and O / W and W / O / W emulsions, hydrodispersions and lipodispersions are preferred in principle. Particularly advantageous inventive combinations can W / O creams, O / W lotions etc. may be used in toiletries such as O / W creams.

The lipid phase can advantageously be chosen from the following substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes

Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; benzoates; Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, Diethylpoiysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or Lipodispersio- NEN purposes of the present invention is advantageously chosen from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such Esteröle can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, iso propylstearat, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, rat Isooctylstea-, Isononylstearat, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2- hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl cylerucat as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters such as jojoba oil.

Further, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be chosen from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl, Octyldo- decanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate advantageous Cι ι 2- 5 alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether. Particularly advantageous are mixtures of 2- Cι ι 5 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12 -ιs benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Cι 2- ιs benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene may advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase can also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferable is to use an additional content of other oil phase components apart from the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Is advantageously cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) were used as according to the invention to be used silicone oil. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously comprises

Alcohols, diols or, preferably lenglykolmonoethyl- polyols of low C number, and their ethers, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -MO- noethyl- or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, and also alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol, and especially one or more thickeners, one or more thickeners which can advantageously be chosen from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or derivatives thereof , for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyvinyl lyacrylat from the group of Carbopols, for example Carbopol grades 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. In a technical sense, the term gels: relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems of at least two components, which as a rule of a - usually solid - colloidally dispersed substance of long-chain molecular groups (for example, gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as skeleton, and a liquid dispersion medium (eg water). The colloidally divided substance is often called a thickener or gelling agent. It forms a three-dimensional network in the dispersion medium, in which individual colloidal particles present may be linked more or less firmly via electrostatic interaction. The dispersing agent, which surrounds the network, characterized by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersion medium (in particular: water), whereas a predominantly nonpolar gelling agent preferably gels nonpolar dispersant.

Strong electrostatic interactions, which kenbindungen example in Wasserstoffbrük- between gelling agent and dispersant, but also realized between dispersant molecules with one another, can lead to high degree of crosslinking of the dispersant. Hydrogels can almost 100% water (apart from additions for example, about 0.2 to 1, 0% of a gelling agent) and have an entirely solid consistency. The water content is present here in ice-like structural elements, meaning that gels therefore [= "frozen" via the alchemistic term "gelatina" (16th cent.) For the modern term. "Gelatin" from lat. "Gelatum"] will certainly live up to its name of origin.

Gels according to the invention usually contain alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerin and water in the presence of the thickener, the case of oily-alcoholic gels is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels, preferably a polyacrylate.

Preparations according to the invention may for example also as foam and shower baths, liquid soaps and solid or so-called "syndets" (synthetic determinants Gentien), shampoos, handwash pastes, intimate detergent, special detergents for infants and the like can be configured. Formulations of the invention may be advantageously characterized by a content of surfactants where appropriate. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances which can dissolve the organic, nonpolar substances in water. They provide a result of their specific molecular structure having at least one hydrophilic and a hydrophobic moiety, for reducing the surface tension of water, wetting the skin, facilitate soil removal and dissolution, facilitate rinsing and - as desired - for foam regulation.

The hydrophilic portions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, such as -COO ", -OSO 3 2", -SO while the hydrophobic moieties are 3 ", usually non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally on the nature and charge the hydrophilic moiety classified four groups can be distinguished.:

• anionic surfactants,

• cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants have sulfonate groups as functional groups, carboxylate, sulfate or. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form in the acidic or neutral environment positively charged organic ions. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution depending on pH, such as anionic or cationic surfactants. In a strongly acidic medium, they have a positive and in an alkaline medium a negative charge. In the neutral pH range, they are zwitterionic, as the following example to illustrate:

RNH 2 + CH 2 CH 2 COOH X "(at pH = 2) X" = any anion such as CI "

RNH 2 + CH 2 CH 2 COO "(at pH = 7)

RNHCH 2 CH 2 COO "B + (at pH = 12) B + = any cation, for example Na +

Typical of nonionic surfactants are polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium. A. Anionic Surfactants

Advantageously be used anionic surfactants are

Acylamino acids (and their salts) such as

1. acyl glutamates, for example sodium, di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acylpeptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolysed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolysed soya protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolysed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium umlauroylsarcosinat and sodium,

4. taurates, for example sodium and sodium,

5. lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, Caproyliactylat

6. alaninates carboxylic acids and derivatives such as

phenolate first carboxylic acids, such as lauric acid, aluminum, zinc undecylenate and Magnesiumalka-,

2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Organophosphate and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts, such as

1. Acyl isethionates, for example sodium / Ammoniumcocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. Alkytsulfonate, for example sodium, sodium Cι second 1 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl, Dinatriumlaurethsul- fosuccinat, disodium and disodium MEA sulphosuccinate

and Schwefelsäureester as 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, Tl PA laureth sulfate, sodium and sodium C 12th 13 pareth,

2. alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Optionally advantageous to use cationic surfactants are

1. alkylamines,

2. Alkylimidazoles,

3. ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N-atom which pen to 4 alkyl or Arylgrup- is covalently linked. This results, independent of the pH value to a positive charge. Advantageously, betaine, alkylamido and alkyl amidopropyl- hydroxysulfain. The cationic surfactants used in the invention can also preferably be chosen from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, for example benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, also alkyltrialkylammonium, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, droxyethylammoniumchloride Alkyldimethylhy- or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or - bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium , alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example Alkyldimethylaminoxi- de or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine. especially cetyltrimethylammonium are beneficial thylammoniumsalze to use.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Advantageous to use amphoteric surfactants are

1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium, disodium acylamphodipropionat, disodium, Natriumacylamphohydro- xypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat and sodium acyl,

2. N-alkyl amino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, Alkylaminopropi- oic acid acid, sodium and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Advantageously be used non-ionic surfactants are 1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such cocoamidopropylamine,

4. esters which are Bitan by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated Glycerinester, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ethers

7 polyglycerol, diglycerol, Monoglycerinester 8. Methylglucosester, esters of hydroxy acids

The following examples illustrate the present invention. Quantities, percentages or parts are used, unless otherwise stated, by weight, in particular on the total weight of the preparations or of the respective mixture.

example 1

Skin cream W / O type

Wt .-%

Vaseline DAB 9 13.0

Glycerol DAB 9 6.30

Paraffin oil 40.80

Cetylstearylalkohol / PEG-40 castor oil / Natriumcetyi 2.50 stearyl

(Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA)

Green tea extract 3.00

qs perfume, preservatives, dyes,

Water to 100.00

The extract of green tea is stirred into the water phase. The fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream has formed.

example 2

Skin cream W / O type

Wt .-%

PEG-1 glyceryl oleostearate + paraffin wax 8.00

Vaseline DAB 2.80

Paraffin wax / paraffin 1, 80

Paraffin oil 12.00

ceresin 2.20

octyldodecanol 10.00

Propylene glycol 1 00

glycerin 1.00

Magnesium sulfate 0.70

qs perfume, preservatives, dyes,

Water VES 100.00

The extract of green tea is stirred into the water phase. The fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream has formed. example 3

Skin cream O / W-type

Wt .-%

octyldodecanol 9.30

(Emulgade F ®, Henkel KGaA)

Cetearyl / PEG-40 paraffin oil 7.80

Castor oil / sodium cetearyl sulfate 3.70

(Eutanol ® G, Henkel KGaA)

(-) - epigallocatechin gallate 1.00

Glycerol DAB 9 4.50

qs perfume, preservatives, dyes,

Water VES 100.00

(-) - epigallocatechin gallate is dissolved in the water phase. The fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream has formed.

example 4

O / W Lotion

Wt .-%

Steareth-2 3.00

Steareth-21 2.00

Cetylstearylalkohol / TEG-40 castor oil / Natriumcetyl- 2.50 stearyl

(Eutanol ® G, Henkel KGaA)

Paraffin oil 15.00

Propylene glycol 1 00

glycerin 3.00

(-) - catechin 1, 20

qs perfume, preservatives, dyes,

Water VES 100.00

(-) - catechin is dissolved in the water phase. The fat phase is then added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform pale yellow lotion has formed. example 5

O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Octyldodecanol 5.60

(Emulgade F, Henkel KGaA)

Cetylstearylalkohol / TEG-40 castor oil / Natriumcetyl- 8.90 stearyl

(Eutanol ® G, Henkel KGaA)

cetearyl 7.50

(Cetiol® 5N, Henkel KGaA)

Paraffin oil 10.50

(-) - gallocatechin gallate 5.00

Glycerol DAB 9 4.70

qs perfume, preservatives, dyes,

Water VES 100.00

(-) - gallocatechin gallate is dissolved in the water phase, the fat phase is then added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform emulsion is formed.

example 6

skin oil

Wt .-% glyceryl 21, 00

(Miglyol ® 812, Dynamit Nobel)

hexyl laurate 20.00

(Cetiol ® A, Henkel KGaA)

octyl 20.00

(Cetiol ® 886, Henkel KGaA

Paraffin oil 36.00

Green tea extract 3.00

The components are stirred at 25 ° C until a uniform, clear mixture is obtained.

Claims

Patentanspr├╝che:
1. Use of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins or wäßriger or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins, such as the Blättern the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (tea grüner) and their typical ingredients (eg polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, Aminosäuren, lipids), for the prevention, treatment and / or care of dry Hautzustände ,
2. Use of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins or wäßriger or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or Gailensäureestem of catechins, such as the Blättern the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (tea Grüner) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols and catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, Aminosäuren, lipids), for stimulating the sphingolipid or to the lipid barrier Stärkung the human skin.
3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the daß or the catechins is gewählt or from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) -Gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
4. Use according to claim 1 or 2, containing herbal Ausz├╝ge present in cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of catechins, particularly those preparations which extracts the gr├╝nen teas.
PCT/EP1999/003777 1998-06-03 1999-06-01 Cosmetic or dermatologic preparations containing catechins or green tea extract WO1999062478A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

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DE1998124727 DE19824727A1 (en) 1998-06-03 1998-06-03 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of catechins or containing green tea extract

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EP19990926491 EP1082100A1 (en) 1998-06-03 1999-06-01 Cosmetic or dermatologic preparations containing catechins or green tea extract
JP2000551735A JP2002516835A (en) 1998-06-03 1999-06-01 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing catechin or green tea extract

Publications (1)

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JP2003519654A (en) * 2000-01-14 2003-06-24 カラー アクセス,インコーポレイティド Use of epigallocatechin gallate for inhibiting angiogenesis
US8710034B2 (en) 2000-04-04 2014-04-29 Color Access, Inc. Method and composition for improving skin barrier function
EP2218480A3 (en) * 2000-07-06 2011-01-26 Beiersdorf AG Use of creatine and/or creatine derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations
US6749860B2 (en) 2000-12-22 2004-06-15 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Absorbent articles with non-aqueous compositions containing botanicals
US7771735B2 (en) 2000-12-22 2010-08-10 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Absorbent articles with compositions for reducing irritation response
JP2002293736A (en) * 2001-03-30 2002-10-09 Sunstar Inc Maillard reaction inhibitor and composition containing the same
WO2003009825A2 (en) * 2001-07-07 2003-02-06 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing catechins or green tea extracts
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WO2003031430A3 (en) * 2001-10-04 2004-04-08 Brane Tech S R L Flavonoid compounds and their pharmaceutical uses
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US7037535B2 (en) 2002-11-19 2006-05-02 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method and composition for neutralizing house dust mite feces
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