US20030133889A1 - Use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylmidazole polymer or copolymer - Google Patents

Use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylmidazole polymer or copolymer Download PDF

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Publication number
US20030133889A1
US20030133889A1 US10/305,115 US30511502A US2003133889A1 US 20030133889 A1 US20030133889 A1 US 20030133889A1 US 30511502 A US30511502 A US 30511502A US 2003133889 A1 US2003133889 A1 US 2003133889A1
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copolymer
vinylimidazole
active principle
polymer
ascorbic acid
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US10/305,115
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Bruno Biatry
Eric Lheureux
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Publication of US20030133889A1 publication Critical patent/US20030133889A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/90Block copolymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P43/00Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of a composition comprising at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase.
  • a composition comprising at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase.
  • the use is cosmetic or dermatological, and preferably relates to treating the skin and/or mucous membranes against UV, pollution, free radicals, and sunburn.
  • ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of the connective tissue and in particular of collagen, strengthens the defences of the cutaneous tissue against external attacks, such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments the skin and has a role in combatting free radicals.
  • these last two properties make it an excellent candidate as cosmetic or dermatological active principle for combatting ageing of the skin or for preventing ageing of the skin.
  • ascorbic acid is highly sensitive to certain environmental parameters and in particular to oxidation phenomena.
  • Another solution provided in the prior art consists in using a high concentration of glycols or polyols in order to reduce the solubility of oxygen in the formulation, thus protecting the ascorbic acid (WO 96/24325, EP 0 755 674, U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,578).
  • the polyols can optionally be incorporated in liposomes, as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,020,367.
  • these solutions exhibit the disadvantage of resulting in sticky formulations, the cosmetic quality of which is difficult to improve.
  • the presence of a high concentration of these compounds can lead to phenomena of irritation.
  • Ascorbic acid can also be formulated in anhydrous media, such as silicones (U.S. Pat. No. 6,194,452), which are capable of creating an anhydrous barrier around ascorbic acid.
  • anhydrous media such as silicones (U.S. Pat. No. 6,194,452), which are capable of creating an anhydrous barrier around ascorbic acid.
  • composition employable in particular in the cosmetics field, in which a hydrophilic active principle which is unstable in an oxidizing medium is stabilized, which is comfortable on application, which does not lead to any skin irritation after application and which is compatible with the constraints of an industrial implementation of its manufacturing process.
  • Cutaneous ageing of physiological nature can be accelerated by environmental factors, such as repeated exposure of the skin to sunlight, in particular to ultraviolet A radiation, or to pollution, in particular to diesel particles or to cigarette smoke.
  • environmental factors such as repeated exposure of the skin to sunlight, in particular to ultraviolet A radiation, or to pollution, in particular to diesel particles or to cigarette smoke.
  • the action of the environment on the constituents of the skin (fibres, cells, enzymes) and on the sebum secreted by the skin results in particular in the formation of oxygen free radicals.
  • these radicals result in significant oxidative damage, in particular in cell membranes (permeability of the membranes), cell nuclei (destruction of DNA), and tissues, in particular connective tissue (decomposition of elastin and collagen fibres). This damage results in particular in the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin.
  • Ascorbic acid by trapping free radicals, protects biological molecules. Thus, applied topically, it can accumulate in the skin and can restore the disrupted concentration of ascorbic acid, for example in the case of exposure to UV radiation. It can, moreover, protect the skin from damage induced by UV radiation (British Journal of Dermatology, 127, 1992, p. 247-253) or by environmental stress.
  • ascorbic acid has an inhibitory effect on the secretion of the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL1 and IL6 induced by UV radiation (Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 108(3), 1997, p. 302-308). It is therefore of particular advantage as soothing agent for sunburn.
  • One object of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising an oxidation-sensitive active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, which exhibits good cosmetic properties, both with regard to touch and with regard to tolerance, the preservation of which over time does not require specific precautions, and which retains the activity in combatting free radicals of the said active principle, for preventing or combatting the harmful effects of UV radiation and/or of pollution on the skin, in particular the loss of firmness and/or of elasticity of the skin.
  • an oxidation-sensitive active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, which exhibits good cosmetic properties, both with regard to touch and with regard to tolerance, the preservation of which over time does not require specific precautions, and which retains the activity in combatting free radicals of the said active principle, for preventing or combatting the harmful effects of UV radiation and/or of pollution on the skin, in particular the loss of firmness and/or of elasticity of the skin.
  • N-vinylimidazole/N-vinylcaprolactam/N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,191,188. They are used in the manufacture of hair-strengthening compositions.
  • polymers or copolymers comprising N-vinylimidazole units have never been used in combination with hydrophilic active principles sensitive to decomposition by oxidation for the purpose of improving their stability in an aqueous medium. This is true in particular in the case of ascorbic acid.
  • One embodiment of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic and/or dermatological use, for preventing or combatting the harmful effects of UV radiation and/or of pollution on the skin, of a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase, at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and at least one non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer, the said active principle and the said polymer or copolymer both being in the aqueous phase.
  • the copolymer is present in an amount sufficient to stabilize the said oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle.
  • Another embodiment of matter of the present invention is the preferably cosmetic and/or dermatological use, for preventing or combatting loss of firmness and/or of elasticity of the skin, of a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase, at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and at least one non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer, the active principle and the polymer or copolymer both being in the aqueous phase.
  • Another embodiment of the present invention is the use of a combination composed of at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and of at least one non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer in the aqueous phase of a composition as agent for combatting free radicals.
  • Another embodiment of the present invention is the use of a combination composed of at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and of at least one non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer in the aqueous phase of a composition as soothing agent for sunburn.
  • polystyrene styrene
  • xylene styrene
  • benzaldehyde styrene
  • hydrophilic active principle is understood to mean a compound having a solubility in water of at least 0.25% at ambient temperature (25° C.).
  • the term “oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle” is understood to mean any active principle of natural or synthetic origin capable of undergoing decomposition by an oxidation mechanism.
  • This oxidation phenomenon can have several causes, in particular the presence of oxygen, of light or of metal ions, a high temperature or certain pH conditions.
  • the active principle combats free radicals, and/or UV radiation or the effects thereof, and/or pollution, and/or sunburn, and/or loss of firmness and/or elasticity.
  • ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as salts or esters thereof, particularly the 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of dl- ⁇ -tocopheryl dl-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay-C 50).
  • Such principles may be present in any amount, preferably an amount sufficient to effect its purpose, such as for example 0.5, 1, 5, 25, etc. grams per 100 grams of composition.
  • the oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle is ascorbic acid.
  • non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer is understood to mean any polymer comprising N-vinylimidazole units and not comprising a crosslinking agent.
  • Copolymers suitable for the implementation of the invention are copolymers combining N-vinylimidazole with N-vinylpyrrolidone and/or N-vinylcaprolactam subunits.
  • the copolymer has a molar fraction of N-vinylimidazole units of between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9, inclusive.
  • the molar ratio of the N-vinylimidazole unit equivalent to the oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle varies between 0.004 and 16 and preferably between 0.01 and 1, inclusive.
  • Use will preferably be made of an N-vinylimidazole/N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.
  • the weight-average molar mass of the N-vinylimidazole polymers will advantageously be between 1 000 and 1 ⁇ 10 7 and preferably between 5 000 and 5 ⁇ 10 6 .
  • Use may be made, to this end, of the vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole (50/50) copolymer having a weight-average molar mass of 1 200 000 sold under the reference LUVITEC VPI 55K72W by BASF or the vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole (50/50) copolymer having a weight-average molar mass of 10 000 sold under the reference LUVITEC VPI 55K18P by BASF.
  • the at least one polymer or copolymer is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount sufficient to produce the desired effect, that is to say in an amount sufficient to stabilize the oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle.
  • the copolymer is present at a concentration of between 0.1 and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase and more particularly at a concentration of between 0.1 and 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the aqueous phase, inclusive.
  • a preferred amount is a stabilizing amount, that is, an amount that slows or prevents the oxidation of the active principle, for example at 45° C. for two months.
  • compositions used according to the invention are intended in one embodiment for topical application to the skin and/or its superficial body growths and therefore preferably comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with cutaneous tissues, such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails and mucous membranes.
  • This physiologically acceptable medium comprises an aqueous phase and optionally a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; or polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol.
  • a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; or polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium
  • it may have a pH which is compatible with the skin, preferably ranging from 3 to 9 and better still from 3.5 to 7.5.
  • compositions according to the invention can be provided in any form, including any pharmaceutical dosage form used conventionally for topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solutions, of oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, of aqueous gels or of dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric nanoparticles, such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes or oleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, of an ointment, of a milk, of a lotion, of a serum, of a paste or of a foam. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be provided in a solid form, for example in the form of a stick.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise an oily phase
  • the latter preferably comprises at least one oil. It can additionally comprise other fatty substances.
  • oils which can be used in the composition of the invention of, for example:
  • hydrocarbonaceous oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • hydrocarbonaceous oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower, maize, soybean, gourd, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, or karite butter oil;
  • esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbonaceous chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or heptanoates, octano
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as sesam oil;
  • fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
  • silicone oils such as volatile or nonvolatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) comprising a linear or cyclic silicone chain which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendent alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethyl-siloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
  • PDMS volatile or non
  • hydrocarbonaceous oil is understood to mean, in the list of the oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • the other fatty substances which can be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl C 1-4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names “KSG” by Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil”, “BY29” or “EPSX” by Dow Coming or under the names “Gransil” by Grant Industries.
  • fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic
  • fatty substances can be chosen in a way varied by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or of texture.
  • the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • the proportion of the oily phase in the emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier selected from the group consisting of amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a coemulsifier.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
  • the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • W/O emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name “DC 5225 C” by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name “Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by Goldschmidt.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name “DC 5225 C” by Dow Corning
  • alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name “Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning and the cet
  • Use may also be made, as surfactant of W/O emulsions, of a crosslinked solid organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of the document U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004 and the examples of the document U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, in particular the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu.
  • Use may also be made, as emulsifier, of a polyolefin-derived oligomer or polymer comprising a succinic ending; the latter is preferably a polyolefin comprising an esterified or amidated succinic ending or a salt of such a polyolefin and in particular polyisobutylene comprising an esterified or amidated succinic ending such as the products sold under the names L5603 and L2721 and OS131769 by Lubrizol.
  • O/W emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers, such as esters of fatty acids and of glycerol which are oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan which are oxyalkylenated; esters of fatty acids which are oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated); ethers of fatty alcohols which are oxyethylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated); sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of PEG-40 stearate.
  • nonionic emulsifiers such as esters of fatty acids and of glycerol which are oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); esters of fatty acids
  • compositions of the invention can also comprise adjuvants conventional in the cosmetics or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UV screening agents, bactericides, odour absorbers, colouring materials, plant extracts or salts.
  • adjuvants conventional in the cosmetics or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, fragrances, fillers, UV screening agents, bactericides, odour absorbers, colouring materials, plant extracts or salts.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those generally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid spherules.
  • fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of pigments, silica powder; talc; particles of polyamide and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer which are sold by Dow Coming under the name Polytrap; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures.
  • These fillers can be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention can additionally comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent and/or at least one inorganic photoprotective agent distinct from the above active principle which is active in the UV-A and/or UV-B regions (absorbers), and which are soluble in water or in fats or else are insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.
  • organic photoprotective agents are not limited and may be chosen in particular from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives, such as those disclosed in Patent Applications U.S. Pat. No.
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • salicylic derivatives in particular homosalate (sold under the name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries), ethylhexyl salicylate (sold under the name “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimeri), dipropylene glycol salicylate (sold under the name “Dipsal” by Scher), or TEA salicylate (sold under the name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer),
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives in particular butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (sold in particular under the trade name “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-LaRoche), or isopropyl dibenzoylmethane,
  • cinnamic derivatives in particular ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (sold in particular under the trade name “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-LaRoche), isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate (sold under the trade name “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer), cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, or glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate,
  • -diphenylacrylate derivatives in particular octocrylene (sold in particular under the trade name “Uvinul N539” by BASF) or etocrylene (sold in particular under the trade name “Uvinul N35” by BASF),
  • benzophenone in particular benzophenone-1 (sold under the trade name “Uvinul 400” by BASF), benzophenone-2 (sold under the trade name “Uvinul D50” by BASF), benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone (sold under the trade name “Uvinul M40” by BASF), benzophenone-4 (sold under the trade name “Uvinul MS40” by BASF), benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6 (sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay), benzophenone-8 (sold under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid), benzophenone-9 (sold under the trade name “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF), benzophenone-12, or n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,
  • benzylidene camphor derivatives in particular 3-benzylidene camphor (manufactured under the name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (sold under the name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck), benzylidene camphor sulphonic acid (manufactured under the name “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex), camphor benzalkonium methosulphate (manufactured under the name “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid (manufactured under the name “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex), or polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor (manufactured under the name “Mesoryl SW” by Chimex),
  • benzimidazole derivatives in particular phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (sold in particular under the trade name “Eusolex 232” by Merck), or disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulphonate (sold under the trade name “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer),
  • triazine derivatives in particular anisotriazine (sold under the trade name “Tinosorb S” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals), ethylhexyl triazone (sold in particular under the trade name “Uvinul T150” by BASF), diethylhexyl butamido triazone (sold under the trade name “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V) or 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4′-amino-benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
  • benzotriazole derivatives in particular drometrizole trisiloxane (sold under the name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie) or methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (sold in the solid form under the trade name “Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical or in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name “Tinosorb M” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals),
  • anthranilic derivatives in particular menthyl anthranilate (sold under the trade name “Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer),
  • imidazoline derivatives in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate,
  • benzalmalonate derivatives in particular polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups (sold under the trade name “Parsol SLX” by Hoffmann-LaRoche),
  • the organic photoprotective agents which are more particularly preferred are selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulphonate, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, anisotriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, 1,1′-dicarbox
  • the inorganic photoprotective agents may be selected from the group consisting of pigments or alternatively nanopigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) formed from coated or uncoated metal oxides, such as, for example, titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide nanopigments, which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.
  • Conventional coating agents are, furthermore, alumina and/or aluminium stearate.
  • Such nanopigments formed from coated or uncoated metal oxides are disclosed in particular in Patent Applications EP 518 772 and EP 518 773.
  • the photoprotective agents may generally be present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably ranging from 0.2 to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can additionally comprise at least one other agent selected from the group consisting of scavengers for ozone, scavengers for heavy metals and agents for combatting free radicals.
  • scavengers for heavy metals which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of chelating agents, such as EDTA, the pentasodium salt of ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid, and N,N′-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine or one of its salts, metal complexes or esters; phytic acid; chitosan derivatives; tea extracts, in particular green tea extracts, tannins, such as ellagic acid; sulphur-comprising amino acids, such as cysteine; water hyacinth ( Eichomia crassipes ) extracts; and the water-soluble maize fraction sold by Solabia under the trade name Phytovityl®.
  • chelating agents such as EDTA, the pentasodium salt of ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid, and N,N′-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine or one of its
  • the agents for combatting free radicals which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in addition to certain agents for combatting pollution mentioned above, vitamin E and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone; certain enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; glutathione; benzylidene camphor; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates; phytantriol; ⁇ -oryzanol; lignans; and melatonin.
  • vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone
  • certain enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and qui
  • composition according to the invention can be applied for example to the skin or lips. It can thus be used in a cosmetic treatment process for the purpose of preventing or combatting the harmful effects of UV radiation and/or of pollution on the skin or mucous membranes, comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin or mucous membranes.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for the purpose of preventing or combatting loss of firmness and/or of elasticity of the skin or mucous membranes, comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin or mucous membranes.
  • composition according to the invention can also be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation comprising an aqueous phase which is intended to prevent or combat harmful effects of UV radiation and/or of pollution on the skin.
  • composition according to the invention can be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation comprising an aqueous phase which is intended to prevent or combat loss of firmness and/or elasticity of the skin.
  • the aim of this test is to study the decomposition of an oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle after storing for two months at 45° C.
  • Various solutions were prepared and their compositions are collated in the following table: TABLE I Compositions (in Solution A water) (Control) Solution B Solution C Solution D Ascorbic acid 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% Polymer 1 — 1% — — Polymer 2 — — 1% — Polymer 3 — — — 1%
  • Polymer 1 Vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole (50/50) copolymer sold under the reference Luvitec VPI 55K72W of BASF (Weight-average molecular mass 1.2 ⁇ 10 6 ).
  • Polymer 2 Vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole (50/50) copolymer sold under the reference Luvitec VPI 55K18P of BASF (Weight-average molecular mass 10 000).
  • Polymer 3 Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the reference Kollidon 12PF of BASF (Weight-average molecular mass 3 000).
  • the concentration of ascorbic acid is determined by the HPLC technique (LaChrom Merck system).
  • the analytical conditions are as follows:
  • Irradiation equipment 3 low-pressure mercury vapour tubes.
  • the tested products are dissolved in a phosphate buffer. They are tested at final concentrations in the reaction mixture generally ranging from 0.1 to 3%, according to their solubility. The final volume is 2 ml.
  • the separation distance for exposure under the UV bank is adjusted in order to have an exposure time of approximately 8 minutes for a UV-A dose of 1 joule/cm 2 and in order not to adjust this setting throughout the duration of the test.
  • the UV-A bank is switched on, displaying a number of joules at least equal to the number of samples.
  • the samples are irradiated one by one at intervals of 0.5 joules.
  • the sample is sheltered from the light
  • composition is prepared in a way conventional to a person skilled in the art.
  • Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate 2.5 g PEG-50 stearate 2.5 g Cetyl alcohol 1 g Stearyl alcohol 1 g Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5 g Water 12.23 g Glycerol 5 g Cyclopentasiloxane 15 g Carbomer 0.6 g Phenoxyethanol 1 g Water 45.17 g Ascorbic acid 5 g Potassium hydroxide (50% solution) 3 g Vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole copolymer 1 g
  • composition is prepared in a way conventional to a person skilled in the art.
  • a white water-in-oil emulsion is obtained, which emulsion is capable of smoothing out the lines of the face and in which emulsion ascorbic acid has good stability.
  • compositions for preventing or combatting the harmful effects of UV radiation and/or of pollution on the skin comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase, at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and at least one non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer, the active principle and the polymer or copolymer both being present in the aqueous phase.
  • a cosmetic treatment process to prevent or combat the harmful effects of UV radiation and/or of pollution on the skin or mucous membranes, comprising the application, to the skin or mucous membranes, of a composition comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase, at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and at least one non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer, the active principle and said polymer or copolymer both being present in the aqueous phase, and a cosmetic process to combat loss of firmness and/or of elasticity of the skin or mucous membranes, comprising the application, to the skin or mucous membranes, of a composition comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase, at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid and its derivatives and at least one non-crosslinked N-vin
  • French patent application 0115375 is incorporated herein by reference, as are all references, texts, documents, articles, standards, patents, applications, etc., mentioned above. All numerical ranges include all values therebetween as if specifically written out.

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US10/305,115 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylmidazole polymer or copolymer Abandoned US20030133889A1 (en)

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FR0115375A FR2832630B1 (fr) 2001-11-28 2001-11-28 Composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique contenant au moins un actif hydrophile sensible a l'oxydation stabilise par au moins un copolymere de n-vinylimidazole
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US10/304,860 Expired - Fee Related US7560493B2 (en) 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer
US10/304,861 Abandoned US20030124075A1 (en) 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer
US10/305,115 Abandoned US20030133889A1 (en) 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylmidazole polymer or copolymer
US10/304,862 Abandoned US20030125378A1 (en) 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer useful to prevent and/or treat cutaneous signs of intrinsic ageing
US10/305,114 Abandoned US20030124161A1 (en) 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Cosmetic and/or dermatological use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer

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US10/304,861 Abandoned US20030124075A1 (en) 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer

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US10/305,114 Abandoned US20030124161A1 (en) 2001-11-28 2002-11-27 Cosmetic and/or dermatological use of a composition containing at least one oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active principle and at least one N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer

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