TWI504417B - 油中水型乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
油中水型乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- TWI504417B TWI504417B TW101111331A TW101111331A TWI504417B TW I504417 B TWI504417 B TW I504417B TW 101111331 A TW101111331 A TW 101111331A TW 101111331 A TW101111331 A TW 101111331A TW I504417 B TWI504417 B TW I504417B
- Authority
- TW
- Taiwan
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- component
- bis
- diglyceryl
- water
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 63
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims description 25
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title description 5
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- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 33
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- WLRWTEIAYJHXDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,3,3,4,4,4a,5,5,6-decamethyl-6H-cyclopenta[b]pyran Chemical compound CC1C=C2C(C(C(C(O2)(C)C)(C)C)(C)C)(C1(C)C)C WLRWTEIAYJHXDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- OKIYQFLILPKULA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,4-nonafluoro-4-methoxybutane Chemical compound COC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F OKIYQFLILPKULA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- BCNXQFASJTYKDJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,1,2,2,3,3,4,4,5-nonafluoro-5-(trifluoromethyl)cyclopentane Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C1(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C1(F)F BCNXQFASJTYKDJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- DFUYAWQUODQGFF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-ethoxy-1,1,2,2,3,3,4,4,4-nonafluorobutane Chemical compound CCOC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F DFUYAWQUODQGFF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SQEGLLMNIBLLNQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-ethoxy-1,1,2,3,3,3-hexafluoro-2-(trifluoromethyl)propane Chemical compound CCOC(F)(F)C(F)(C(F)(F)F)C(F)(F)F SQEGLLMNIBLLNQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- AGYVJAURRLHPJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N CCCCCCCCC(C(OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C)(OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C)OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C)OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC(C(OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C)(OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C)OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C)OCCCCCCCCCC(C)(C)C AGYVJAURRLHPJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本發明係有關油中水型乳化化粧料,尤其是有關緊緻感優越且保濕效果及使用感亦優越之油中水型乳化化粧料。
乳化組成物分為水中油型(O/W)及油中水型(W/O)兩大類,亦有油中水中油型(O/W/O)、水中油中水型(W/O/W)等多類型存在。該等在以往化粧料領域,在護膚用之乳霜、乳液、護髮用乳霜等中活用。
其中,將油相作為外相,將水相作為內相之油中水型乳化化粧料,由於油溶性之有效成分,例如潤滑油(Emollient Oil)、油溶性之藥劑、紫外線吸收劑等有效地在皮膚上展開,故適於作為化粧料之劑型,於此點,比水中油型更為優越。
於該等油中水型乳化化粧料,近年來要求對肌膚賦予緊緻感(肌膚不鬆弛、不緊繃,具有適度彈力之使用感)。
以往,賦予緊緻感之物質係使用高分子化合物等。例如己知一種經由使用聚天冬胺酸鹽(專利文獻1)或聚乙烯醇(專利文獻2)而具有緊緻感之油中水型乳化組成物。
惟,為了呈現保濕效果及其他使用感之效果而調配之保濕劑或油分,有使緊緻感變弱之情況。
[專利文獻1]日本特開2005-306797號公報
[專利文獻2]日本特開2010-229103號公報
本發明係因鑑於上述以往技術之課題而施行者,其目的係提供一種緊緻感及保濕效果非常優越之油中水型乳化化粧料。
本發明人等為了解決上述之問題進行深入研究之結果發現,藉由調配雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及與其相溶性低之揮發性油分而作成油中水型乳化化粧料,即可使緊緻感及保濕效果並存,因而完成本發明。
亦即,本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料,其特徵係:含有下述之(A)至(D),其中,相對於(A)成分及(B)成分,(b1)成分之比例為40至85%,
(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-20.5至10質量%
(B)含有(b1)之油分(b1)與(A)之相溶性低之揮發性油分
(C)乳化劑
(D)水性成分 60至90質量%
於上述油中水型乳化化粧料,(B)成分中含有(b2)黏度未達1000mPa.s之油分,
(b2)成分之調配量較好為(A)成分的調配量之2倍以下。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料為含有:包含雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分之油分、乳化劑、水性成分之組成物,可提供緊緻感優越,保濕效果及使用感亦優越之油中水型乳化化粧料。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料為由(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2、(B)(b1)含有與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分之油分、(C)乳化劑及(D)水性成分所構成。
以下,對於各成分加以詳述。
(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2為雙甘油及己二酸、辛酸、癸酸、異硬脂酸、硬脂酸、羥基硬脂酸之酯油。
雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之市售品可列舉Softisan 649(Sasol公司製造)。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料之(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之調配量,相對於化粧料全量需為0,5至10質量%。(A)成分之調配量較好在1質量%以上。調配量若未達0.5質量%,則不能獲得充分之緊緻感及保濕效果。又,(A)成分之調配量較好在5質量%以下。調配量若超過10質量%,則無發黏性及柔軟性等之使用感及安定性差。
本發明之(B)油分必需含有作為(b1)成分之與(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分。
此處,與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之油分為將雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2與作為對象之油分混合,加熱至80℃後回到室溫時並不會成為均一透明層之油分。又,揮發性油分為在1氣壓,沸點在300℃以下之油分。
該等(b1)成分可列舉例如六甲基環三矽氧烷、八甲基環四矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷、十二甲基環六矽氧烷、六甲基二矽氧烷、八甲基三矽氧烷、十甲基四矽氧烷、十二甲基五矽氧烷、十四甲基六矽氧烷、十六甲基七矽氧烷、甲基三(三甲基矽烷氧基)矽烷、四(三甲基矽氧基)矽烷、全氟甲基環戊烷、全氟二甲基環己烷、甲基全氟丁醚、甲基全氟異丁醚、乙基全氟丁醚、乙基全氟異丁醚等。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料之(b1)與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分之調配量,相對於化粧料全量,較好在6質量%以上,更好在10質量%以上,最好在13質量%以上。調配量若太少,則有緊緻感差之情況。(b1)成分之調配量較好在20質量%以下,更好在18質量%以下。調配量若太多,則有使用感差之情況。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料,作為(B)油分,除了上述必需成分的(b1)成分之外,較好調配(b2)黏度未達1000mPa.s之油分。於本發明中,黏度為在常溫(25℃)在黏度計中測定之值(黏度計之測定條件為BL型,12rpm、轉
子No.2)。
該等作為(b2)黏度未達1000mPa.s之油分可列舉例如聚矽氧油、極性油分、非極性油分等。
聚矽氧油可列舉例如甲基聚矽氧烷、甲基苯基聚矽氧烷、甲基氫聚矽氧烷等鏈狀聚矽氧油及環狀聚矽氧油等。
極性油分可列舉例如辛酸鯨蠟酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸異丙酯、棕櫚酸辛酯、硬脂酸異鯨蠟酯、異硬脂酸異丙酯、異棕櫚酸辛酯、異硬脂酸異癸酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、癸二酸二乙酯等之酯油等。
非極性油分可列舉例如液體石蠟、角鯊烷、角鯊烯、石蠟、異十六烷等之烴油等。
在本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料中調配(b2)成分時,(b2)成分之調配量較好在(A)成分的調配量之2倍以下。(b2)成分之調配量若超過(A)成分的調配量之2倍,則有不能獲得充分緊緻感之情況。
本發明之化粧料較好更調配(b3)高黏度油分。
於本發明中,(b3)高黏度油分為選自由固形油、(A)成分以外之半固形油、黏度在1000mPa.s以上之油分所成群組之油分。該等油分可單獨調配,亦可調配2種以上。
經由含有高黏度油分,可獲得緊緻感或保濕效果更優越之油中水型乳化化粧料。又,於本發明中,高黏度油分之調配量不會影響乳化化粧料之安定性。
(b3)高黏度油分中,作為固形油可列舉例如:可可脂、椰子油、馬油、硬化椰子油、棕櫚油、牛脂、羊脂、硬化
萞麻油等之固體油脂;石蠟(直鏈烴)、微結晶蠟(支鏈飽和烴)、純地蠟、木蠟、褐煤蠟、費歇爾-托蠟(Fischer Tropsch Wax)等之烴類;蜜蠟、巴西棕櫚蠟、小燭樹蠟、米糠蠟(米蠟)、鯨蠟、荷荷芭油、糠蠟、褐煤蠟、木棉蠟、月桂子蠟、蟲膠蠟、甘蔗蠟、綿羊油脂肪酸異丙酯、月桂酸己酯、還原綿羊油、硬脂綿羊油、POE綿羊油醇醚、POE綿羊油醇乙酸酯、POE胆巢醇醚、綿羊油脂肪酸聚乙二醇、POE氫化棉羊油醇醚等之蠟類;肉豆蔻酸、棕櫚酸、硬脂酸、山萮酸等之高級脂肪酸;鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇、肉豆蔻醇、十八十六醇(cetostearyl alcohol)等之高級醇等。
(A)成分以外之半固形油例如除了凡士林、綿羊油、牛油樹油脂、部分氫化椰子油等之植物油、部分氫化荷荷芭油等之外,可列舉:四(山萮酸/苯甲酸/乙基己酸)新戊四醇酯、澳洲堅果籽油聚甘油-6酯山萮酸酯、二聚亞油酸(植物固醇/山萮)酯、己基氧基硬脂酸二新戊四醇酯等。
黏度在1000mPa.s以上之油分可列舉例如三異硬脂酸甘油酯、蘋果酸二異硬脂酯、氫化綿羊油、氫化聚異丁烯等。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料之外相(油相),較好在為連續相之(b1)成分中分散有(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2。
(A)成分如與(b1)成分之相溶性低,則如上所述,在內水相之調配量多之本發明乳化化粧料中,在(b1)成分中(A)成分不會分離而可安定的微分散。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料中,對於(A)成分及(B)成分,(b1)成分之比率需為40至85%。較好為55至85%。相對於(A)成分及(B)成分,(b1)成分之比率未達40%時,會有不能獲得充分緊緻感之情況。相對於(A)成分及(B)成分,(b1)成分之比率若超過85%,則有安定性或使用感差之情況。
(C)乳化劑可使用一般化粧料所使用之乳化劑。
乳化劑更好使用HLB在5%以下者。HLB超過5之乳化劑之親水性高,有不易獲得安定之油中水型乳化化粧料之情況。
上述HLB之值可根據HLB=7+11.7.log(MW/MO)(惟,MW表示親水基部分之分子量,MO表示親油基部分之分子量)表示之川上式算出。
該等乳化劑可列舉例如有機改性黏土礦物、聚矽氧系界面活性劑、多元醇脂肪酸脂系界面活性劑等。
有機改性黏土礦物可列舉例如:二甲基烷基銨鋰蒙脫石、苯甲基二甲基硬脂基銨鋰蒙脫石、氯化二硬脂基二甲基銨處理矽酸鋁鎂等。
聚矽氧系界面活性劑可列舉例如:聚(氧伸乙基/氧伸丙基)甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物(poly(oxyethylene/oxypropylene)methylpolysiloxane)copolymer、聚氧伸乙基甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物、聚矽氧鏈分支型甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物、烷基鏈分支型聚氧伸乙基甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物、烷
基鏈.聚矽氧鏈分支型聚氧伸乙基甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物、交聯型聚氧伸乙基甲基聚矽氧烷、含有烷基之交聯型聚氧伸乙基甲基聚矽氧烷、分支型聚甘油改性聚矽氧、交聯型聚甘油改性聚矽氧、含有烷基之交聯型聚甘油改性聚矽氧、烷基分支型聚甘油改性聚矽氧等。
多元醇脂肪酸酯系界面活性劑可列舉例如:甘油脂肪酸酯、聚甘油脂肪酸酯、聚氧伸乙基甘油脂肪酸酯、山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯、聚氧伸乙基山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯等。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料之(C)乳化劑之調配量,相對於化粧料全量,較好在0.5質量%以上,更好在1質量%以上。調配量若太少,則有安定性差之情況。(C)成分之調配量較好在5質量%以下,更好在4質量%以下。調配量若太多,則有使用感差之情況。
(D)水性成分可將化粧料一般可使用之成分在不損壞乳化物安定性之範圍下調配。
該等(D)水性成分可列舉例如:保濕劑、水溶性高分子、紫外線吸收劑、螫合劑、抗氧化劑、藥劑等。
保濕劑可列舉:1,3-丁二醇、聚乙二醇、丙二醇、二丙二醇、己二醇、甘油、二甘油、木糖醇、麥芽糖醇、麥芽糖、D-甘露糖醇等。
水溶性高分子可列舉:阿拉伯樹膠、角叉菜膠(carrageenan)、果膠、瓊脂、褞桲子(quince seed)(榲桲)、澱粉、藻類膠體(褐藻萃取物)等之植物系高分子化合
物;糊精、普路蘭(pullulan)等之微生物系高分子;膠原蛋白、酪蛋白、明膠等之動物系高分子;羧甲基澱粉、甲基羥丙基澱粉等之澱粉系高分子;褐藻酸鈉等之褐藻酸系高分子;羧乙烯基聚合物(CARBOPOL等)等之乙烯系高分子;聚氧伸乙基系高分子;聚氧伸乙基聚氧伸丙基共聚物系高分子;聚丙烯酸鈉、聚丙烯醯胺等之丙烯系高分子;皂土(bentonite)、矽酸鋁鎂、合成鋰皂石(Laponite)等之無機系水溶性高分子等。
紫外線吸收劑可列舉例如:對胺基苯甲酸等之苯甲酸系紫外線吸收劑;鄰胺苯甲酸甲酯等之鄰胺苯甲酸系紫外線吸收劑;水楊酸辛酯、水楊酸苯酯等之水楊酸系紫外線吸收劑;對甲氧基肉桂酸異丙酯、對甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、二對甲氧基肉桂酸單-2-乙基己酸甘油等之肉桂酸系紫外線吸收劑;2,4-二羥基二苯甲酮、2-羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2-羥基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮-5-磺酸等之二苯甲酮系紫外線吸收劑;尿刊酸(urocanic acid)、2-(2’-羥基-5’-甲基苯基)苯并三唑、4-第三丁基-4’-甲氧基苯醯基甲烷等。
螫合劑可列舉:乙二胺四乙酸鈉、偏磷酸鈉、磷酸等。
抗氧化劑可列舉:抗壞血酸、α-生育酚、二丁基羥基甲苯、丁基羥基茴香醚等。
藥劑可列舉:維生素A油、視黃醇(Retinol)、棕櫚酸視黃酯、肌醇、鹽酸吡哆醇、菸鹼酸苯甲酯、菸鹼醯胺、菸鹼酸dl-α-生育酚、抗壞血酸磷酸鎂、抗壞血酸2-葡萄
糖苷、維生素D2
(麥角鈣化固醇)、dl-α-生育酚2-L抗壞血酸磷酸二酯鉀鹽、dl-α-生育酚、乙酸dl-α-生育酚、泛酸、生物素等之維生素類;尿囊素、薁等之抗發炎劑;熊果苷、4-甲氧基水楊酸或其鹽、傳明酸或其衍生物等之美白劑;氧化鋅、丹寧酸等之收歛劑;硫黃、氯化溶菌酶、鹽酸吡哆醇、γ-谷維醇等。
上述藥劑除了以遊離狀態使用之外,可造鹽者能以酸或鹼之鹽的形態使用、且具有羧酸基者能以其酯之形態使用。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料之(D)水性成分之調配量,相對於化粧料全量,必需為60至90質量%。(D)成分之調配量較好在65質量%以上。(D)成分之調配量若未達60質量%,則會引起雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之分離或沉澱,化粧料之使用感變差。又,(D)成分之調配量較好在85質量%以下。調配量若超過90質量%,則安定性變差。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料可廣泛應用於以往適用於外表皮膚之化粧料。可列舉例如:美白用美容液、乳液、乳霜、面膜(敷臉用品)、粉底、口紅、眼影、眼線、睫毛膏、洗面乳、髮膠、慕斯、潤髮精、洗髮乳等之製品。
對於本發明列舉以下之實施例加以詳細說明,惟,本發明不只限於該等實施例。調配量若無特別記載,表示相對於所調配之系的該成分之質量%。
在實施例說明之前先對本發明使用之試驗之評價方法加以說明。
經由目視評價調製1週後之試料外觀。
A:未看到油的分離。
B:看到油的分離、沉澱。
C:1週以內看到油的分離、沉澱。
在10名專業評審員之臉上塗抹試料,評價塗抹時之使用感。
A*
:10名專業評審員中有9名以上回答有緊緻感。
A:10名專業評審員中有7名以上未達9名回答有緊緻感。
B:10名專業評審員中有5名以上未達7名回答有緊緻感。
C:10名專業評審員中未達5名回答有緊緻感。
將於25℃及40℃保存1個月之試料之硬度及外觀與剛調製後比較,評價安定性。
A*
:在任何一種保存條件下,硬度之降低均在10%以下且未看到外觀變化。
A:在任何一種保存條件下,均未看到外觀變化,但只有於40℃保存者看到硬度降低10%以上。
B*
:在任何一種保存條件下,均未看到外觀變化,但看到硬度降低10%以上。
B:從外觀看到水或油的些微分離。
C:在1個月內,從外觀看到水或油的分離。
在10名專業評審員之臉上塗抹試料,評價塗抹時之使用感。
A*
:10名專業評審員中有9名以上回答有豐潤感。
A:10名專業評審員中有7名以上未達9名回答有豐潤感。
B:10名專業評審員中有5名以上未達7名回答有豐潤感。
C:10名專業評審員中未達5名回答有豐潤感。
在10名專業評審員之臉上塗抹試料,評價塗抹時之使用感。
A*
:10名專業評審員中有9名以上回答肌膚柔嫩。
A:10名專業評審員中有7名以上未達9名回答肌膚柔嫩。
B:10名專業評審員中有5名以上未達7名回答肌膚柔嫩。
C:10名專業評審員中未達5名回答肌膚柔嫩。
在10名專業評審員之臉上塗抹試料,評價塗抹時之使用感。
A*
:10名專業評審員中有9名以上回答有保濕效果。
A:10名專業評審員中有7名以上未達9名回答有保濕效果。
B:10名專業評審員中有5名以上未達7名回答有保濕效果。
C:10名專業評審員中未達5名回答有保濕效果。
本發明人等使用與肌膚密合性高且具有緊緻感的高分子之雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2(Softisan 649(Sasol公司製造)),對於緊緻感進行研究。由於雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2在常溫時為半固形(融點約40℃(滴點32至37℃),故難以單獨調配在化粧料中。
因此,將雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2與各種追加油分調配,製造下述表1表示之化粧料。然後,各試料在評價項目(1)及(2)以上述採點基準進行評價。結果表示於表1。
於以下之試驗,「相溶性(*1)」表示雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2與油分之相溶性。亦即,將由雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及追加油分而成之2種油分混合,於80℃加熱後,成為均一之透明層時評價為「○」、未成為均一透明層時評價為「×」。
調配有與一般雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2一同調配之可溶解半固形油(雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2)之油分(異十六碳烷、角鯊烷)之油性化粧料之試驗例1-1、1-2雖為安定,卻不覺得有緊緻感。
又,調配有雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及與其相溶性低之油分(十甲基環五矽氧烷、十甲基四矽氧烷、二甲基聚矽氧烷)之試驗例1-3至1-5,在經時,雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2會沉澱,安定性差。惟,在調配有揮發性油分之試驗例1-3及1-4之試料,緊緻感非常優越。
本發明人等對於化粧料中達到緊緻感之油分(雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2)及與其一起調配之追加油分在肌膚上之舉動進行研究。結果表示於第1圖至第3圖。
如試驗例1-1,追加油分如使用與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性高之揮發性油分(異十六碳烷)時,認為顯示如第1圖表示之舉動。亦即認為異十六碳烷由於與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之相溶性高,故一部分揮發,一部分共存,在肌膚上塗抹濃度低之雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2。
如試驗例1-3,追加油分如使用與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分(十甲基環五矽氧烷)時,認為顯示如第2圖之舉動。亦即認為十甲基環五矽氧烷由於與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之相溶性低,故塗抹在肌膚上時,作為揮發性油分之十甲基環五矽氧烷立即分離及變成容易揮發。因此認為有多量之雙-二甘油多醯基
己二酸酯-2黏附在肌膚上。
如試驗例1-5,追加油分如使用與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之非揮發性油分(二甲基聚矽氧烷)時,認為顯示如第3圖之舉動。亦即認為由於二甲基聚矽氧烷與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之相溶性低或為非揮發性,故塗抹在肌膚上時,雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2與二甲基聚矽氧烷不均一,分別聚集存在且一邊黏附在肌膚上而產生斑點。
根據表1及第1圖至第3圖,塗抹在肌膚上時,在雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2多量黏附在肌膚之系中,認為獲得雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2具有之發揮與肌膚的密著性、摩擦性且緊緻感優越之化粧料。
亦即,如試驗例1-3及1-4而明瞭,經由併用雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及與其之相溶性低之揮發性油分,可將雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之緊緻效果發揮至極限。
惟,調配有雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及與其相溶性低之揮發性油分時,不能獲得可滿足如上所述之安定性之化粧料。
本發明人等嚐試將該等油分調配於油中水型乳化化粧料中,抑制油相中之雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之分離。
亦即,本發明人等將調配有雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2、並改變併用之追加油分之種類,根據常法製造以下述表2表示之調配組成形成之油中水型乳化化粧料(乳霜)。各試料在評價項目(2)至(6)以上述採點基準進行評價。結
果表示於表2。
根據表2,調配有雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及與其相溶性低之揮發性油分之試驗例2-1中,緊緻感非常優越。又,與試驗例1-4相比,可明瞭經由作成油中水型乳化化粧料,安定性提高。由此暗示經由作成油中水型乳化系,油相中之雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2不會分離(沉澱),在連續相之追加油分中安定地分散著。
另一方面,除了雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2以外,
調配有與其相溶性高之揮發性油分(試驗例2-2)或與其相溶性低之非揮發性油分(試驗例2-3、2-4)之油中水型乳化化粧料,仍然非為可滿足緊緻感者。
從以上明瞭,經由將(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及(B)(b1)與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分與(C)乳化劑及(D)水性成分一起作成油中水型乳化化粧料,可獲得不會損壞雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2具有之緊緻感,且安定之化粧料。
本發明人等更進一步的研究結果確認在試驗例2-1,將十甲基四矽氧烷之調配量增加至40質量%時,在經時,看到雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的分離,評價項目(3)變成「C」。因此,在本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料中,(D)水性成分之調配量必需在60質量%以上。
接著,更進一步對於提高安定性或使用感之其他有效成分進行研究。本發明人等根據常法製造由下述表3表示之調配組成所成之油中水型乳化化粧料(乳霜)。各試料在評價項目(2)至(6)以上述採點基準進行評價。結果表示於表3。
適當地調配有(A)至(D)成分之試驗例2-1之試料中,根據適當地調配有角鯊烷之試驗例3-2至3-4,可明瞭經由角鯊烷的調配,安定性或使用感提昇。
本發明人等更進一步研究之結果明瞭提高安定性或使用感為有效之以角鯊烷為代表之油分為黏度未達1000mPa.s之油分。
除此之外,可明瞭相對於(A)成分及(B)成分,(b1)與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2之相溶性低之揮發性油分之
比例會影響緊緻感或使用感。
本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料較好含有(b2)黏度未達1000mPa.s之油分。
又,相對於(A)成分及(B)成分,(b1)與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分之比例必需為40至85%。
接著,對於各種油分之調配量進行研究。本發明人等根據常法製造由將各種油分之調配量變更為如下述表4表示之調配組成而成之油中水型乳化化粧料(乳霜)。各試料在評價項目(2)至(6)以上述採點基準進行評價。結果表示於表4。
根據表4,即使(A)成分及(B)成分中之(b1)與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分之比例達到40至85%,在(b2)成分之調配量比(A)成分之調配量多2倍之試驗例4-2,緊緻感亦稍微變差。
因此,(b2)成分之調配量較好在(A)成分調配量之2倍以下。
接著,對於乳化系進行研究。本發明人等根據常法製造由調配有各種乳化劑之下述表5表示之調配組成而成之
油中水型乳化化粧料(乳霜)。又,亦根據常法製造下述試驗例5-5之水中油型乳化化粧料。各試料在評價項目(2)至(6)以上述採點基準進行評價。結果表示於表5。
根據試驗例5-1至5-4,本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料之(C)乳化劑可使用各式各樣種類之乳化劑。
惟,在作成水中油型乳化化粧料之試驗例5-5之試料,緊緻感非常差。
因此,含有本發明之(A)至(D)成分之乳化化粧料必需為油中水型乳化物。
以下,列舉本發明之油中水型乳化化粧料之處方例。本發明不只限於該處方例。
將(4)至(10)加熱混合,進行油相之均一分散。將加入(1)至(3)之水相混合。在上述油相中慢慢添加經加熱之水相,用均化器均一分散後將乳化粒子整粒,邊攪拌邊冷卻,
製造為油中水型乳化化粧料之乳霜。獲得之W/O型乳霜之安定性佳,具有緊緻感優越之使用感。
將(4)至(9)加熱混合,進行油相之均一分散。將加入(1)至(3)之水相混合。在上述油相中慢慢添加經加熱之水相,用均化器均一分散後將乳化粒子整粒,邊攪拌邊冷卻,製造為油中水型乳化化粧料之乳霜。獲得之W/O型乳霜之安定性佳,具有緊緻感優越之使用感。
將(4)至(10)加熱混合,進行油相之均一分散。將加入(1)至(3)之水相混合。在上述油相中慢慢添加經加熱之水相,用均化器均一分散後將乳化粒子整粒,邊攪拌邊冷卻,製造為油中水型乳化化粧料之乳霜。獲得之W/O型乳霜之安定性佳,具有緊緻感優越之使用感。
1‧‧‧(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2
2‧‧‧追加油分
3‧‧‧肌膚
第1圖為表示雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及追加油分(與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性高之揮發性油分)在肌膚上之舉動圖。
第2圖為表示雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及追加油分(與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之揮發性油分)在肌膚上之舉動圖。
第3圖為表示雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2及追加油分(與雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2的相溶性低之非揮發性油分)在肌膚上之舉動圖。
1‧‧‧(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2
2‧‧‧追加油分
3‧‧‧肌膚
Claims (2)
- 一種油中水型乳化化粧料,其特徵為:含有以下之(A)至(D),其中,相對於(A)成分及(B)成分,(b1)成分之比例為40至85%,(A)雙-二甘油多醯基己二酸酯-2 0.5至10質量%(B)含有(b1)之油分(b1)與(A)之相溶性低之揮發性油分,其係選自六甲基環三矽氧烷、八甲基環四矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷、十二甲基環六矽氧烷、六甲基二矽氧烷、八甲基三矽氧烷、十甲基四矽氧烷、十二甲基五矽氧烷、十四甲基六矽氧烷、十六甲基七矽氧烷、甲基三(三甲基矽氧基)矽烷、四(三甲基矽氧基)矽烷、全氟甲基環戊烷、全氟二甲基環己烷、甲基全氟丁醚、甲基全氟異丁醚、乙基全氟丁醚、乙基全氟異丁醚(C)乳化劑(D)作為主要成分之包含水的水性成分 60至90質量%,其中,與(A)之相溶性低之揮發性油分係指,與(A)混合並加熱至80℃後回到室溫時並不會成為均一透明層之油分。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之油中水型乳化化粧料,其中,(B)成分中含有(b2)黏度未達1000mPa.s之油分,(b2)成分之調配量為(A)成分的調配量之2倍以下。
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