TWI386227B - 化粧料 - Google Patents
化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- TWI386227B TWI386227B TW095142589A TW95142589A TWI386227B TW I386227 B TWI386227 B TW I386227B TW 095142589 A TW095142589 A TW 095142589A TW 95142589 A TW95142589 A TW 95142589A TW I386227 B TWI386227 B TW I386227B
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- monomer unit
- phase
- polymer
- ultraviolet
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 51
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 25
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- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008280 blood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004369 blood Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 235000021014 blueberries Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- MPIWSMKTTRZOKT-UHFFFAOYSA-N butanoic acid;2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid Chemical compound CCCC(O)=O.OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O MPIWSMKTTRZOKT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000001736 capillary Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 231100000504 carcinogenesis Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940114081 cinnamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CMDKPGRTAQVGFQ-RMKNXTFCSA-N cinoxate Chemical compound CCOCCOC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 CMDKPGRTAQVGFQ-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000003373 curcuma longa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- FGEUKKGODAGXOD-FMIVXFBMSA-N cyclohexyl (e)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound C1=CC(OC)=CC=C1\C=C\C(=O)OC1CCCCC1 FGEUKKGODAGXOD-FMIVXFBMSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000000118 dimethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 235000004879 dioscorea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003814 drug Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004945 emulsification Methods 0.000 description 1
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- NYNCZOLNVTXTTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl 2-(1,3-dioxoisoindol-2-yl)acetate Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(=O)N(CC(=O)OCC)C(=O)C2=C1 NYNCZOLNVTXTTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XCRHYAQWBYDRGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl 3-(4-propan-2-ylphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCOC(=O)C=CC1=CC=C(C(C)C)C=C1 XCRHYAQWBYDRGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CBZHHQOZZQEZNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl 4-[bis(2-hydroxypropyl)amino]benzoate Chemical compound CCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(N(CC(C)O)CC(C)O)C=C1 CBZHHQOZZQEZNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WZXKPNYMUZGZIA-RMKNXTFCSA-N propyl (e)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 WZXKPNYMUZGZIA-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- HKEAFJYKMMKDOR-VPRICQMDSA-N puerarin Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1C1=C(O)C=CC(C2=O)=C1OC=C2C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 HKEAFJYKMMKDOR-VPRICQMDSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Description
本發明係關於具有高度之紫外線防禦效果，且顯示優異之耐水性之紫外線防禦化粧料。
可到達地表之太陽光線之紫外線係可分為長波長紫外線UVA(320~400nm)及中波長紫外線UVB(280~320nm)，然後，UVA又可分為UVAII(320~340nm)及UVAI(340~400nm)。UVB被認為有使皮膚在短時間內發生紅斑、浮腫等之炎症(曬傷)，之後，經數日之後有引起色素沈澱之皮膚黑化(suntan)之作用，此外亦有可能成為皮膚老化、致癌之原因。在另一方面，UVA被認為會使存在於表皮之淡色黑色素變為濃色之黑色素，引起皮膚變黑之即時黑化，同時成為皮膚之張力或彈力降低之原因。
為了防禦此等紫外線，以良好之效率吸收紫外線之有機系紫外線吸收劑、或含有使紫外線散射之紫外線防禦粉體之防曬化粧料被使用。近年來，在市面上出售之防曬化粧料，多數係屬於顯示紫外線防禦效果之持續性高且對皮膚容易塗布之W/O型製劑，在此種乳化物之外油相中組合含有表面經過疏水性處理之紫外線防禦粉體(疏水性紫外線防禦粉體)、或有機系紫外線吸收劑，藉以得到紫外線防禦效果。
然而，在此等乳化物中，由於紫外線防禦劑僅存在於一相(油相)，在塗布於皮膚上之際，造成紫外線防禦劑不均勻，而無法完全發揮紫外線防禦劑之效果之情況較多。
因此，為了在將製劑塗布於皮膚時可使紫外線防禦劑更均勻分布於皮膚上，曾有各種研究被進行。例如，專利文獻1中載述，使用水分散性超細微二氧化鈦及油分散性超細微二氧化鈦，藉此可在皮膚上使紫外線防禦劑之分布狀態變得更均勻，可相乘提高對紫外線之防禦效果。
再者，專利文獻2中載述，將油溶性紫外線吸收劑與水溶性紫外線吸收劑組合使用，藉此可提高紫外線防禦效果。
然而，在此等組成物之情況，雖然可期待紫外線防禦效果之提高，卻由於使用水溶性之紫外線防禦劑，對汗水或水等之耐水性不足，在紫外線防禦效果之持續性上無法令人滿足。
(專利文獻1)日本專利特開平6－16527號公報(專利文獻2)日本專利特開平8－506574號公報
本發明提供一種化粧料暨其製造方法，該化粧料係屬於O1
/W/O2
乳化型組成物，其在油相O1
及O2
中含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物。
本發明係關於具有高度之紫外線防禦效果，並且塗布於皮膚時之耐水性優異之紫外線防禦化粧料。
本案發明人發現，在O/W/O型之多層乳化液中，使內外兩油相含有紫外線防禦粉體，藉此可得到一種紫外線防禦化粧料，其可使塗布時之皮膚上之紫外線防禦劑之分布狀態變得均勻，提高紫外線防禦效果，同時對汗水或水之耐水性亦優異。
本發明之化粧料為具有高度之紫外線防禦效果，並且塗布於皮膚時之耐水性優異。
本發明之化粧料為一種O1
/W/O2
乳化型組成物，係在屬於內相之油相O1
及屬於外相之O2
中均含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物。
被含在O1
及O2
兩油相中之具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物，係在UVB至UVAII之廣大範圍內具有吸收或散射之效果之金屬氧化物，基於吸收或散射紫外線之效果高之觀點，以氧化鋅、氧化鈦、氧化鈰較佳。此等微粒子金屬氧化物之平均粒徑以0.001~0.5 μ m較佳，而以0.01~0.1 μ m進一步較佳。
關於微粒子金屬氧化物之商品化產品，例如，作為微粒子氧化鋅可舉出FINEX－25、FINEX－50、FINEX－75(以上均為堺化學公司製)；MZ500系列、MZ700系列(以上均為TAYCA公司製)；ZnO－350(住友大阪Cement公司製)等。作為微粒子氧化鈦，可舉出TTO－55系列、TTO－51系列(以上均為石原產業公司製)；JR系列、JA系列(以上均為TAYCA公司製)等。再者，微粒子氧化鈰包括NIKKI公司或SEIMI CHEMICAL公司所出售之高純度氧化鈰。其中以氧化鋅、氧化鈦較佳。
在本發明中，具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物最好為在所得之分散體中容易分散之狀態，為此，使微粒子金屬氧化物表面被覆有其他物質，或使分散助劑用溶膠(例如Al2
O3
溶膠等)或溶膠之安定劑與無機物質粒子混合亦可。例如在使用超微粒子氧化鈦之情況，可以於超微粒子之表面被覆選自Al、Si、Zr、Mg、Zn、Ce、Ti、Fe之一種以上之氧化物或含水氧化物，提高分散安定性。
再者，微粒子金屬氧化物為了提高對於汗水或水之耐水性，乃以經過通常對化粧料用粉體所施加之疏水性表面處理者較佳(疏水性紫外線防禦粉體)。
作為表面處理之方法，若屬於可提高金屬氧化物之撥水性者即可，並未受到限制，例如可舉出利用甲基氫化聚矽氧烷、二甲基聚矽氧烷、聚矽氧樹脂等之聚矽氧處理，利用含全氟基化合物等之氟化合物處理等之方法。其中以聚矽氧處理較佳。
為了使微粒子金屬氧化物被含(分散)於油相O1
中，最好能使用(b)屬於由疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位所構成之聚合物，其中親水性單體單位含有40~80質量%、以40~60質量%較佳之聚合物。
此種聚合物最好為非離子性或陽離子性聚合物，進一步以形成由疏水性單體單位、親水性單體單位分別聚合成之大分子單體(macromer)之聚合物較佳，而以疏水性大分子單體具有矽氧烷骨架者進一步較佳。例如，作為矽氧烷鏈為骨架(疏水性大分子)，可舉出加成有親水性大分子如聚氧伸烷基(如聚氧化伸乙基、聚氧化伸丙基等)唑啉基、胺基等者。具體例示可舉出聚氧化伸乙基－甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物、聚(氧化伸乙基．氧化伸丙基)甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物、聚氧化伸乙基烷基聚矽氧烷．聚氧化伸丙基烷基聚矽氧烷．二甲聚矽氧烷共聚物、甲基聚矽氧烷．烷基甲基聚矽氧烷．聚(氧化伸乙基氧化伸丙基)－甲基聚矽氧烷共聚物、胺基改質聚矽氧、唑啉改質聚矽氧等。
其中以日本專利特開平7－133352號公報所載述之唑啉改質聚矽氧(聚N－醯基伸乙基亞胺改質聚矽氧)較佳。
再者，此等聚合物之分子量乃以10000~250000較佳，而以10000~200000進一步較佳。
作為油相O1
，可使用平常之化粧料所用之油性成分，以含有聚矽氧油者較佳。油相O1
為將下述(a)、(b)、(c)及(d)：(a)具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物；(b)由疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位所構成之聚合物；(c)聚矽氧油；以及(d)碳數1~3之醇類；且以(a)：(b)：(c)：(d)＝(25~65)：(0.1~5)：(10~50)：(10~50)、更佳為(25~65)：(0.5~4)：(20~50)：(10~50)之質量比例含有之分散液時，可得到安定之分散液，因此較佳。
(c)聚矽氧油若屬於被用於平常之化粧料，在20℃呈液狀，且可容許(a)紫外線防禦粉體分散者，則不受到限制，例如可舉出二甲聚矽氧烷、甲基環聚矽氧烷等。20℃時之黏度為1~1000mm2
/s者，在感覺之觀點上較佳。
(d)碳數1~3之醇類可舉出甲醇、乙醇、丙醇，其中以乙醇較佳，此等醇之混合物亦可。
再者，為了提高粉體之分散性，(d)碳數1~3之醇最好能按相對於(c)聚矽氧油為0.5~5質量倍予以使用。
此外，在油相O1
中亦可以含有(a)、(b)、(c)以及(d)以外之成分，例如前述以外之粉體、油性成分、紫外線吸收劑等。
本發明之O1
/W/O2
乳化型化粧料可例如利用(A)屬於由疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位所構成之聚合物，且含有親水性單體單位40~80質量%之聚合物，來調製在油相O1
中含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物之O1
/W乳化物，其次，將該O1
/W乳化物藉(B)乳化劑，乳化成含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物之油相O2
之方法來製造。
作為成分(A)之聚合物，可舉出與前述(b)相同者。
成分(A)之聚合物與成分(b)之聚合物相同或不同均可，不過最好能為相同。
油相O1
在全組成中最好含有1~40質量%，以5~30質量%進一步較佳。
又，水相W在全組成中最好含有5~60質量%，以10~50質量%進一步較佳。
成分(A)之聚合物係被使用於含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物之油相O1
及水相W之乳化，在全組成中最好含有0.05~5質量%，以0.2~5質量%進一步較佳。
油相O1
在水相W中之平均粒徑愈小，其基於布朗運動之分散愈安定化，因此平均粒徑較小者較合適，而平均粒徑最好為10 μ m以下，以1 μ m以下進一步較佳。O1
/W中之O1
之平均粒徑係使用雷射繞射/散射式粒度分布測定裝置而測定。再者，O1
/W/O2
乳化型化粧料中之O1
之粒徑係根據光學顯微鏡像測定。
其次，將所得之O1
/W乳化物使用(B)乳化劑予以乳化成含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物之油相O2
，可藉此得到本發明之O1
/W/O2
乳化型化粧料。
成分(B)之乳化劑乃以油溶性高之W/O型乳化劑較佳，例如可舉出HLB7以下之非離子性乳化劑。具體可舉出屬於聚矽氧系界面活性劑之聚醚改質聚矽氧、甘油烷基改質聚矽氧、以及聚氧化伸乙基烷基醚、山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯、聚氧化伸乙基山梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯、聚氧化伸乙基脂肪酸酯、聚氧化伸乙基脂肪酸酯、聚氧化伸乙基硬化蓖麻油、聚氧化伸乙基硬化蓖麻油脂肪酸酯、聚甘油脂肪酸酯、聚氧化伸乙基甘油醚脂肪酸酯、聚氧化伸乙基脂肪酸單烷醇醯胺、聚氧化伸乙基脂肪酸二烷醇醯胺、蔗糖脂肪酸酯等。
再者，作為成分(B)之乳化劑，亦可使用屬於疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位所構成之聚合物，含有親水性單體單位5~50質量%，以10~40質量%較佳之聚合物。
作為此種聚合物，可舉出與前述聚合物(b)或聚合物(A)相同，但其親水性單體單位之含有比例不同者。
此等成分(B)之乳化劑可使用一種以上，在全組成中含有0.01~10質量%較佳。
作為前述油相O2
所含之油劑，可舉出聚矽氧油、烴油、酯油、醚油、氟油等。
作為聚矽氧油，可舉出直鏈狀聚有機矽氧烷、環狀聚矽氧烷等。作為直鏈狀聚有機矽氧烷，可舉出具有碳數1~5之烷基之直鏈狀烷基聚矽氧烷、具有碳數1~5之烷基及碳數6~10之芳基之直鏈狀烷基芳基聚矽氧烷等，具體而言可舉出直鏈狀二甲基聚矽氧烷、直鏈狀甲基苯基聚矽氧烷等。在此等直鏈狀有機聚矽氧烷中，以具有20℃之黏度為1~1000mPa．s者較佳，其中以5~10mPa．s進一步較佳。作為環狀聚矽氧烷，可舉出具有碳數1~5之烷基作為取代基之4~6員環環狀矽氧烷，具體而言可舉出八甲基環四矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷等。
作為烴油，可舉出流動石蠟、鯊烷、輕質流動異烷烴、重質流動異烷烴、聚丁烯等。
再者，作為酯油，例如可舉出紅花籽油、黃豆油、葡萄籽油、芝麻油、小麥胚芽油、酪梨油(avocado oil)、橄欖油、蓖麻油、澳洲胡桃油(macadamia nut oil)、繡花菊油(meadowfoam oil)等之植物油；貂油、海龜油、液狀羊毛脂等之動物油；肉豆蔻酸異丙酯、異硬脂酸異丙酯、羊毛脂脂肪酸異丙酯等之低級醇之脂肪酸酯；異壬酸2－乙基己酯、異壬酸異十三酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二酯、油酸辛基十二酯、2－乙基己酸十六酯、2－乙基己酸異十六酯、異硬脂酸異十八酯等之高級醇之脂肪酸酯；蘋果酸二異十八酯、乳酸十六酯等之高級醇之含氧酸酯；甘油三辛酸酯、甘油三－2－乙基己酸酯、甘油三異硬脂酸酯、甘油三(辛酸．癸酸)酯、丙二醇二辛酸酯、丙二醇二(辛酸．癸酸)酯、丙二醇二異硬脂酸酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、新戊二醇(2－乙基己酸)酯等之多元醇之脂肪酸酯等。
作為醚油，可舉出十六基二甲基丁基醚等，作為氟油，可舉出全氟聚醚、全氟碳等。
該等之中，以聚矽氧油較佳。
油相O2
以在全組成中含有30~90質量%者較佳，而以40~80質量%進一步較佳。
再者，在提高安定性之目的下，使油相O2
含有棕櫚酸糊精、烷基改質聚矽氧等亦可。其含量在油相O2
中為0.01~3質量%者為佳，而以0.01~2質量%更佳，0.1~1質量%進一步較佳。
分散於油相O1
及油相O2
中之微粒子金屬氧化物之質量比例若為O1
/O2
＝1：9~9：1，尤其為2：8~7：3時，則可更均勻含有粉體，而使紫外線防禦效果變得更高，因此較佳。
本發明之化粧料可進一步含有有機紫外線吸收劑，可進一步提高紫外線防禦效果。作為有機紫外線吸收劑，並未受到限制，不過以油溶性者較佳。
油溶性之紫外線吸收劑包括苯甲酸系、鄰胺苯甲酸系、水楊酸系、桂皮酸系、以及二苯基酮系者。關於苯甲酸系紫外線吸收劑，苯甲酸系者可舉出對胺苯甲酸(以下簡稱為PABA)、甘油基PABA、乙基二羥丙基PABA、N－乙氧基(ethoxylate)PABA乙基酯、N－二甲基PABA乙基酯、N－二甲基PABA丁基酯、N－二甲基PABA胺基酯、辛二甲基PABA等；鄰胺苯甲酸系者可舉出高基－N－乙醯鄰胺苯甲酸酯等。水楊酸系紫外線吸收劑可舉出水楊酸戊酯、水楊酸酯、水楊酸高酯、水楊酸辛酯、水楊酸苯酯、水楊酸苄酯、水楊酸對異丙醇苯酯等。桂皮酸系紫外線吸收劑可舉出桂皮酸辛酯、乙基4－異丙基桂皮酸酯、乙基－2,4－二異丙基桂皮酸酯、甲基－2,4－二異丙基桂皮酸酯、丙基－對甲氧基桂皮酸酯、異丙基－對甲氧基桂皮酸酯、異戊基－對甲氧基桂皮酸酯、2－乙基己基－對甲氧桂皮酸酯、2－乙氧基乙基－對甲氧基桂皮酸酯、環己基－對甲氧桂皮酸酯、乙基－α－氰基－β－苯基桂皮酸酯、2－乙基己基－α－氰基－β－苯基桂皮酸酯、甘油基單－2－乙基己醯基二對甲氧基桂皮酸酯等。二苯基酮系紫外線吸收劑可舉出2,4－二羥基二苯基酮、2,2’－二羥基－4－甲氧基二苯基酮、2,2’－二羥基－4,4’－二羥基二苯基酮、2－羥基－4－甲氧基二苯基酮、2－羥基－4－甲氧基－4’－甲基二苯基酮、2－羥基－4－甲氧基二苯基酮、4－苯基二苯基酮、2－乙基己基－4’－苯基二苯基酮－2－羧酸酯、2－羥基－4－正辛氧基二苯基酮、4－羥基－3－羧基二苯基酮等。除了上述以外，可進一步舉出3－(4’－甲基亞苄基)－dl－樟腦、3－亞苄基－dl－樟腦、4－咪唑丙烯酸乙酯、2－苯基－5－甲基苯并唑、2,2’－羥基－5－甲基苯基苯并三唑、2－(2’－羥基－5－第三辛基苯)苯并三唑、二雙亞苄肼、聯大茴香甲醯甲烷、4－甲氧基－4’－第三丁基二苯甲醯基甲烷、5－(3,3－二甲基－2－亞降基)－3－戊烷－2－酮、日本專利特開平2－212579號公報所載述之苯－雙－1,3－二酮衍生物、日本專利特開平3－220153號公報所載述之苯甲醯基三級丁基乙酮衍生物等。
化粧料中之有機紫外線吸收劑含量並未受到限制，不過基於提高紫外線防禦效果而得到良好之使用感之觀點，最好能在全組成中佔0.1~25質量%，以0.5~10質量%進一步較佳。
使此等有機紫外線吸收劑被含在油相O1
及/或O2
之任一者中均可。
本發明之化粧料可進一步含有美白劑或具有美白效果之植物萃取物。作為美白劑，可舉出抗壞血酸類、氫醌類、麴酸類、胎盤萃取物等。作為抗壞血酸類，可舉出L－抗壞血酸、L－抗壞血酸葡萄糖苷、L－抗壞血酸磷酸酯之鹼金屬鹽等。作為氫醌類，可舉出將1個碳數1~4之烷基導入氫醌而成之烷基氫醌與糖所形成之縮合物等。作為麴酸類，可舉出麴酸、麴酸單丁酸酯、麴酸脂肪酸酯等。作為胎盤萃取物，可舉出胎盤(placenta)萃取物。
作為具有美白效果之植物萃取物，例如可舉出甘草、葛根(Pueraariae Radix)、黑豆、山慈姑(Amana edulis)、知母(Anemarrhena)、麥冬(dowarf lilyturf)、虎尾蘭(Sansevieria)、白背櫟(Quercus salicina)、茵蔯蒿(Artemisiae Capillari Flos.)、洋甘菊(chamomile)(油溶性及水溶性)、地榆(sanguisorba officinalis)萃取物、朝鮮薊(artichoke)、翠菊(aster)、稻、丁香(clove)、薑黃(turmeric)、苦瓜(balsam pear)、山藥(Dioscorea Rhizome)、蘆薈、茶、白蘿蔔(meadow saxifrage)、黃芩(Scutellariae Radix)、枇杷(Japanese loquat)、苦橙(bitter orange)、高麗參(panax ginseng)、蜀葵屬植物(althea)、金雞納(cinchona)、紫草科植物(comfrey)、迷迭香草(rosemary)、茛菪(scopolia)、微勞馬尾藻(Sargassum fulvellum)、美洲地榆(burnet)、藍莓(blueberry)等之萃取物。
在此等美白劑中，以油溶性洋甘菊萃取物、地榆萃取物、茶萃取物、葛根萃取物、甘草萃取物、蜀葵屬植萃取物、美洲地榆萃取物、丁香萃取物、L－抗壞血酸、L－抗壞血酸葡萄糖苷、麴酸、以及胎盤萃取物較佳，尤其以油溶性洋甘菊萃取物及地榆萃取物在膚色改善效果較高之觀點上較合適。此等在本發明之化粧料中最好含有0.001~5質量%。
本發明之化粧料除了前述成分以外，亦可以含有通常被使用於化粧料之成分，例如液狀油、固態脂(蠟)、半固態油、醇類、水、保濕劑、水溶性高分子、油溶性高分子、高分子乳膠、各種界面活性劑、藥劑、植物萃取液、腦醯胺類、血行促進劑、冷感劑、制汗劑、殺菌劑、皮膚活化劑、pH調整劑、增黏劑、氧化防止劑、防腐劑、香料等。
本發明之化粧料可被應用作為附加有紫外線防禦性之各種化粧料，例如護膚化粧料、彩粧化粧料、頭髮化粧料等。作為彩粧化粧料，係適於用作為防曬化粧料、粉底化粧料、蜜粉、化粧基底、腮紅、口紅、遮瑕膏、眼部化粧品等。
使硫酸二乙酯3.76g(0.024mol)及2－乙基－2－唑啉65.3g(0.66mol)溶於脫水之乙酸乙酯140g，在氮氣環境中予以加熱回流8小時，合成末端反應性聚(N－丙醯基伸乙基亞胺)。對此，將側鏈一級胺基丙基改質聚二甲基矽氧烷(分子量100000，胺當量20500)500g(胺基0.024mol)之50%乙酸乙酯溶液一次加入，加熱回流12小時。將反應混合物減壓濃縮，以淡黃色橡膠狀固體得到N－丙醯基伸乙基亞胺．二甲基矽氧烷共聚物(537g，產率95%)。重量平均分子量為149000。(親水性大分子單體含有率12質量%)
使硫酸二乙酯7.57g(0.049mol)及2－乙基－2－唑啉263.3g(2.66mol)溶於脫水之乙酸乙酯550g，在氮氣環境中予以加熱回流8小時，合成末端反應性聚(N－丙醯基伸乙基亞胺)。對此，將側鏈一級胺基丙基改質聚二甲基矽氧烷(分子量60000，胺當量3870)250g(胺基0.065mol)之50%乙酸乙酯溶液一次加入，加熱回流12小時。將反應混合物減壓濃縮，以淡黃色橡膠狀固體得到N－丙醯基伸乙基亞胺．二甲基矽氧烷共聚物(505g，產率97%)。重量平均分子量為88400。(親水性大分子單體含有率49質量%)
製造表1所示組成之液狀紫外線防禦化粧料，施行紫外線防禦效果及耐水性之評價。所得結果一併示於表1中。
(1)實施例1及2：使成分(15)分散於由成分(13)、(14)以及(17)混合而均勻化之液體中，得到IV相。使成分(1)分散於成分(4)~(6)之均勻混合液中，而得到I相。使成分(7)與成分(8)混合均勻化以作為II相。將所得之II相加入I相而使之均勻化。對此添加成分(9)、(10)以及(12)而使之均勻化，將所得之液加入IV相，而使之均勻化，於是得到化粧料(O1
/W/O2
乳化型)。
(2)比較例1：使成分(15)分散於由成分(13)、(14)以及(17)所形成之混合液中而得到IV相。使成分(9)、(10)以及(12)混合，加入IV相而使之均勻化，於是得到化粧料。
(3)比較例2及3：使成分(15)或(16)分散於由成分(13)、(14)以及(17)所形成之混合液中而得到IV相。使成分(9)、(10)以及(12)混合於成分(2)或(3)，將此加入IV相而使之均勻化，於是得到化粧料。
(4)比較例4：使成分(13)、(14)以及(17)均勻混合而得到IV相。其次，使成分(9)~(12)混合，加入IV相而使之均勻化，於是得到化粧料。
(1)紫外線防禦效果：使用SPF分析儀(Optometrics公司)，測定各化粧料之SPF值，依照以下之基準予以表示。
◎：SPF值20以上○：SPF值15以上且未滿20△：SPF值5以上且未滿15×：SPF值未滿5
(4)耐水性(水處理後之SPF值)：將外科用膠帶黏附於石英板上，於其上塗布各化粧料(塗布量2mg/cm2
)，使用SPF分析儀(Optometrics公司)測定SPF值。然後，在水中處理80分鐘後，再次測定SPF值算出水處理後之SPF值/水處理前之SPF值×100(%)。依照以下之基準判定SPF之持續性，作為耐水性之指標。
○(耐水性非常高)：90%以上△(耐水性高)：70%以上且未滿90%×(耐水性低)：未滿70%
實施例1及2之化粧料(O1
/W/O2
乳化型)具有高度之紫外線防禦效果，且耐水性亦優異，具有高度之紫外線防禦效果持續性。實施例2中，分散於I相中之紫外線防禦劑(金屬氧化物)之分散安定性更優異，紫外線防禦效果非常高。
與此相對地，比較例1~4係為W/O型乳化化粧料，其中僅在油相O中含有疏水性紫外線防禦粉體之比較例1的紫外線防禦效果低，使用感亦低劣。再者，使親水性紫外線防禦粉體分散於油相O中之比較例2之，紫外線防禦效果及耐水性均低。同樣使親水性氧化鈦分散於油相O中之比較例3，亦為耐水性低。此外，在水相中摻配有水溶性紫外線吸收劑(苯基苯并咪唑磺酸)之比較例4亦無法得到充份之耐水性。
製造表2所示組成之液狀紫外線防禦化粧料，以與實施例1相同之方式施行紫外線防禦效果(SPF值)之評價。將所得之結果一併示於表2中。
使成分(11)及(12)分散於由成分(13)~(16)混合成之液中，對此添加成分(10)，使之均勻混合，而得到IV相。其次，使成分(1)及(2)分散於由成分(3)~(5)均勻混合成之液中，而得到I相。使成分(6)與成分(7)混合，而將所得之II相加入I相，使之均勻化。對此添加成分(8)及(9)，而得到均勻之O1
/W乳化物。將所得之O/W乳化物加入IV相，而使之均勻化，於是得到O1
/W/O2
化粧料。
實施例3~5之化粧料均示其紫外線防禦效果高。在水溶性成分與油溶性成分之比率按質量比例為約4/6之本系統中，存在於內油相與外油相之疏水性紫外線防禦粉體之比率為5/5(接近4/6)之實施例4係顯示最高之紫外線防禦效果。與此相對地，疏水性紫外線防禦粉體僅存在於外油相或內油相之比較例5及6均示其紫外線防禦效果低劣。
以與實施例1相同之方法製造以下所示組成之防曬化粧水。
I相
II相
III相
IV相
對於所得O1
/W/O2
型防曬劑之O1
之粒徑，用光學顯微鏡來確認，結果確定其為5 μ m以下，係進行布朗運動。
以與實施例1相同之方法製造以下所示組成之防曬化粧水。
I相
II相
III相
IV相
以與實施例1相同之方法製造以下所示組成之防曬化粧水。
I相
II相
III相
IV相
以與實施例1相同之方法製造以下所示組成之防曬霜。
I相
II相
III相
IV相
以與實施例1相同之方法製造以下所示組成之防曬粉底化粧料。
I相
II相
III相
IV相
對於實施例6~10所得之化粧料，以與實施例1相同之方法施行紫外線防禦效果及耐水性之評價，得到之結果皆顯示其紫外線防禦效果高，耐水性亦優異。
Claims (7)
- 一種化粧料，其特徵為，係屬於O1 /W/O2 乳化型組成物，在油相O1 及O2 中含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物，其中，油相O1 包含(A)由疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位構成，其親水性單體單位之含量為40~80質量%的聚合物，及其中，作為乳化劑之油相O2 包含(B)由疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位構成，其親水性單體單位之含量為10~40質量%的聚合物。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項之化粧料，其中，分散於油相O1 及油相O2 中之微粒子金屬氧化物之質量比例為O1 /O2 =1：9~9：1。
- 如申請專利範圍第1或2項之化粧料，其中，具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物係經過聚矽氧處理者，油相O1 及O2 係分別含有聚矽氧油。
- 如申請專利範圍第1或2項之化粧料，其中，油相O1 為將(a)、(b)、(c)及(d)以(a)：(b)：(c)：(d)=(25~65)：(0.1~5)：(10~50)：(10~50)之質量比例含有之分散液：(a)申請專利範圍第1項所定義之微粒子金屬氧化物；(b)申請專利範圍第1項所定義之聚合物；(c)聚矽氧油；以及(d)碳數1~3之醇。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項之化粧料，其中，各聚合物(A)係為唑啉改質聚矽氧。
- 一種化粧料之製造方法，係用以製造申請專利範圍第1至4項中任一項之化粧料者，其使用(A)由疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位構成，其親水性單體單位之含量為40~80質量%的聚合物，來調製在油相O1 中含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物之O1 /W乳化物，其次，藉乳化劑(B)將該O1 /W乳化物乳化成含有具紫外線遮蔽性能之微粒子金屬氧化物之油相O2 ，其中，(B)係由疏水性單體單位與親水性單體單位所構成，其親水性單體單位之含量為10~40質量%的聚合物。
- 如申請專利範圍第6項之製造方法，其中，各聚合物(A)係為唑啉改質聚矽氧。
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|---|---|---|---|
| JP2005334283A JP4866066B2 (ja) | 2005-11-18 | 2005-11-18 | 化粧料 |
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| TWI386227B true TWI386227B (zh) | 2013-02-21 |
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| TW095142589A TWI386227B (zh) | 2005-11-18 | 2006-11-17 | 化粧料 |
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|---|---|
| US (1) | US8535697B2 (zh) |
| EP (1) | EP1948123B1 (zh) |
| JP (1) | JP4866066B2 (zh) |
| CN (1) | CN101309663B (zh) |
| AU (1) | AU2006316123B2 (zh) |
| TW (1) | TWI386227B (zh) |
| WO (1) | WO2007058382A1 (zh) |
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| WO2013072488A2 (en) * | 2011-11-18 | 2013-05-23 | Unilever Plc | Even deposition and low rub-off compositions |
| FR3004644B1 (fr) * | 2013-04-19 | 2015-08-07 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique contenant une phase huileuse comprenant un elastomere de silicone en suspension aqueuse et un tensioactif particulier. |
| JP2016056150A (ja) * | 2014-09-12 | 2016-04-21 | 株式会社ノエビア | 粉体含有油中水中油型乳化化粧料 |
| CN105064018A (zh) * | 2015-09-08 | 2015-11-18 | 湖州南浔宏亮纺织有限公司 | 一种新型植物型纯棉织物抗紫外线防皱整理剂 |
| JP6789631B2 (ja) * | 2015-12-22 | 2020-11-25 | ロレアル | Ｓｐｆ及びレオロジーを改善するための高内相エマルション組成物 |
| JP6842778B2 (ja) * | 2016-09-06 | 2021-03-17 | 学校法人慶應義塾 | 紫外線吸収剤又は赤外線遮断剤含有水性組成物の紫外線防御効果又は赤外線防御効果の測定方法及び測定用試料作成装置 |
| US11135151B2 (en) | 2018-08-31 | 2021-10-05 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions containing oxazoline functionalized polymers and compound having at least one nucleophilic site capable of reacting with the at least one oxazoline functionalized compounds |
| US11154488B2 (en) | 2018-08-31 | 2021-10-26 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions containing oxazoline functionalized polymers and amino silicone compounds |
| US11166904B2 (en) | 2018-08-31 | 2021-11-09 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions containing oxazoline functionalized polymers and carboxyl group-containing polymers |
| US11129787B2 (en) | 2018-08-31 | 2021-09-28 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions containing oxazoline functionalized polymers and polyamine compounds |
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| JPH11180820A (ja) * | 1997-12-17 | 1999-07-06 | Kao Corp | Ｏ／ｗ／ｏ型乳化組成物 |
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| JPS63250311A (ja) * | 1987-04-06 | 1988-10-18 | Kao Corp | 油中水型化粧料 |
| GB9010526D0 (en) | 1990-05-10 | 1990-07-04 | Unilever Plc | Cosmetic composition |
| WO1994017780A1 (de) * | 1993-02-11 | 1994-08-18 | Beiersdorf Ag | Wasserfeste kosmetische oder dermatologische lichtschutzzubereitungen |
| US5902569A (en) * | 1995-03-10 | 1999-05-11 | Kao Corporation | Ultraviolet shielding composite fine particles, method for producing the same, and cosmetics |
| DE19548015A1 (de) * | 1995-12-21 | 1997-06-26 | Beiersdorf Ag | Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an hydrophoben anorganischen Mikropigmenten |
| JP2001354515A (ja) * | 2000-06-14 | 2001-12-25 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 複合エマルジョン及びこれを配合した化粧料 |
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- 2005-11-18 JP JP2005334283A patent/JP4866066B2/ja active Active
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- 2006-11-17 US US12/091,064 patent/US8535697B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
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- 2006-11-17 TW TW095142589A patent/TWI386227B/zh active
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| US20020077372A1 (en) * | 1995-12-21 | 2002-06-20 | Heinrich Gers-Barlag | Process for the preparation of o/w or o/w/o emulsions and 0/w and o/w/o emulsions obtainable by such processes |
| EP0953336A1 (en) * | 1996-05-30 | 1999-11-03 | Kao Corporation | Fine ultraviolet screening particles, process for preparing the same, and cosmetic preparation |
| JPH11180820A (ja) * | 1997-12-17 | 1999-07-06 | Kao Corp | Ｏ／ｗ／ｏ型乳化組成物 |
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|---|---|
| WO2007058382A1 (en) | 2007-05-24 |
| TW200803904A (en) | 2008-01-16 |
| JP2007137825A (ja) | 2007-06-07 |
| AU2006316123B2 (en) | 2012-03-01 |
| CN101309663A (zh) | 2008-11-19 |
| US20090263433A1 (en) | 2009-10-22 |
| JP4866066B2 (ja) | 2012-02-01 |
| EP1948123A1 (en) | 2008-07-30 |
| US8535697B2 (en) | 2013-09-17 |
| EP1948123B1 (en) | 2011-10-12 |
| CN101309663B (zh) | 2011-05-04 |
| AU2006316123A1 (en) | 2007-05-24 |
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