JP7455126B2 - 油性化粧料 - Google Patents
油性化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP7455126B2 JP7455126B2 JP2021535332A JP2021535332A JP7455126B2 JP 7455126 B2 JP7455126 B2 JP 7455126B2 JP 2021535332 A JP2021535332 A JP 2021535332A JP 2021535332 A JP2021535332 A JP 2021535332A JP 7455126 B2 JP7455126 B2 JP 7455126B2
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- JP
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- cosmetic
- pigment
- red
- pigments
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CC)CCCC XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940100463 hexyl laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CZWLNMOIEMTDJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexyl(trimethoxy)silane Chemical compound CCCCCC[Si](OC)(OC)OC CZWLNMOIEMTDJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006007 hydrogenated polyisobutylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000005661 hydrophobic surface Effects 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WTFXARWRTYJXII-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(2+);iron(3+);oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Fe+2].[Fe+3].[Fe+3] WTFXARWRTYJXII-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(II,III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]O[Fe]=O SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940078545 isocetyl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940075495 isopropyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008101 lactose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940071085 lauroyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000944 linseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057995 liquid paraffin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SXQCTESRRZBPHJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M lissamine rhodamine Chemical compound [Na+].C=12C=CC(=[N+](CC)CC)C=C2OC2=CC(N(CC)CC)=CC=C2C=1C1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1S([O-])(=O)=O SXQCTESRRZBPHJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000845 maltitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010449 maltitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N maltitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]([C@H](O)CO)O[C@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001054 red pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- PYWVYCXTNDRMGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N rhodamine B Chemical compound [Cl-].C=12C=CC(=[N+](CC)CC)C=C2OC2=CC(N(CC)CC)=CC=C2C=1C1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O PYWVYCXTNDRMGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- KVMUSGMZFRRCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium;5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-[(4-sulfophenyl)diazenyl]-4h-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid Chemical compound [Na+].OC(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)C1N=NC1=CC=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C=C1 KVMUSGMZFRRCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 1
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- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003784 tall oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl 2-hydroxypropanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)O BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- NMEPHPOFYLLFTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethoxy(octyl)silane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](OC)(OC)OC NMEPHPOFYLLFTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940118594 trimethylolpropane triisostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002383 tung oil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Landscapes
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Description
特許文献1には、油性の内包物を当該内包物に不溶の軟質樹脂からなるシェル(カプセル膜)で被覆した軟質樹脂カプセル、及び当該軟質樹脂カプセルを配合したメーキャップ化粧料が記載されている。前記軟質樹脂カプセルは、着色顔料、有色真珠光沢顔料および油溶性染料から選択される色材の一種又は二種以上並びに油分を含有する内包物と、その内包物を被覆するシェル(カプセル膜)と、を含む圧縮崩壊性のカプセルである。特許文献1に記載された化粧料は、化粧料を皮膚に塗布した後、前記カプセルの耐圧(破壊)強度を超える力で摩擦することにより、シェル(カプセル膜)が破壊されて内包された顔料等の色材が放出される。その結果、化粧塗膜の色調を変化させることができる。しかしながら、色調を変化させるためには、肌上で強い力で塗擦する必要があり、また、破壊されたカプセルが肌に残るため、化粧塗膜に悪影響を与える場合があった。
(a)顔料を含む粒子であって、顔料の外観色の一部又は全部がマスキングされた粒子、および
(b)粒子径が50~600μmの水溶性スクラブ剤、
を含む油性化粧料であって、
(b)水溶性スクラブ剤の配合量が化粧料全量に対して2~20質量%であり、
かつ、
(a)顔料を含む粒子と(b)水溶性スクラブ剤の配合比率[(b)/(a)]が0.5以上2.5未満であることを特徴とする油性化粧料を提供する。
一方、本発明の油性化粧料は、適度な粒子径を持つスクラブ剤を含有しているため、化粧料の製造工程において粒子がつぶれてしまうという現象が生じにくく、色調変化と同時に良好なスクラビング効果やマッサージ効果も併せて実感できる。また、スクラブ剤として水溶性の物質を用いることで、スクラブ剤が肌残りしないため使用感にも優れる。
以下に、本発明の化粧料を構成する各成分について詳述する。
本発明に係る化粧料に配合される(a)顔料を含む粒子(以下、単に「(a)成分」と称する場合がある)としては、化粧料に一般的に用いられる顔料の外観色の一部又は全部がマスキングされた粒子であればいずれの形態のものであってもよい。例として、顔料を内包する多層型カプセル粒子、顔料を他の成分と一体化させた凝集粒子等が挙げられる。なかでも、粒子からの顔料放出の調節し易さの観点から、顔料を内包する多層型カプセル粒子が好ましく用いられる。
本発明における「色調顔料」は、化粧料の色調を変化させる機能を持つものであれば特に限定するものではない。一般に「着色顔料」と呼ばれる顔料、例えば、赤色酸化鉄、酸化鉄/酸化チタン焼結物、カドミウムレッド、モリブデンレッド等の赤色無機顔料や、黄色酸化鉄、酸化セリウム、ビスマスバナジウムイエロー、黄鉛、カドミウムイエロー等の黄色無機顔料等が挙げられる。
本発明における「機能性顔料」は、一般に機能性顔料と呼ばれている窒化ホウ素等のみならず、前記「着色顔料」以外の顔料、例えば、酸化チタン及び酸化亜鉛等の白色顔料、タルク、マイカ及びシリカ等の体質顔料等を包含する。
顔料を内包する多層型カプセル粒子は、例えば、米国特許公開第2011/0165208号A1公報(対応する特表2011-529104号公報)に記載されているように、色調顔料、可塑剤およびポリマーを第1の溶媒に均質に混合して第1の混合溶液を調製すること、調製した溶液を噴霧乾燥して、色調顔料がポリマーによって被覆されるコア粒子を形成させること、形成したコア粒子および機能性顔料を第2の溶媒に均質に混合して第2の混合溶液を調製すること、第2の混合溶液を噴霧乾燥して、コア粒子の外部に機能性顔料のコーティング層が形成された多層型カプセル粒子を生成させることによって製造することができる。
多層型カプセル粒子の形状は、球形状、角形状、楕円形状などのほか、不定形状であってもよく、形状は問わない。
本発明に係る化粧料に配合される(b)水溶性スクラブ剤(以下、単に「(b)成分」と称する場合がある)としては、水溶性であり、粒子径が50~600μmの粉末であれば特に限定されない。皮膚に対する刺激が少なく、安全性が高い(口に入れても問題が生じない)という観点から、糖類からなる粉末を用いるのが好ましい。糖類としては、単糖、多糖、糖アルコールなどを用いることができる。
本発明における「水溶性」とは、20℃における水への溶解度が少なくとも50g/100mL、好ましくは100g/100mL以上、より好ましくは150g/100mL以上であることを意味する。
糖アルコールとしては、ソルビトール、マルチトール、キシリトール、マンニトール、ラクチトール、エリスリトールなどが挙げられる。
化粧料の硬度が10gf未満であると、基剤が柔らかすぎて、顔料を含む粒子が粉砕されず、十分な発色が得られない。一方、硬度が70gfを超えると、基剤が固すぎて使用性が悪くなる。
下記の表1および表2に示す処方で油性化粧料を常法により調製した。
次いで、得られた化粧料について、(1)粒子((a)成分)のつぶれやすさ、(2)使用性(スクラブ剤による刺激効果)、(3)製造時の取り扱いやすさ(製造工程における粒子((a)成分)のつぶれにくさ)、及び(4)塗布後の塗擦による色調変化、を評価した。各項目の評価方法は以下に述べるとおりである。
各例の化粧料(同量)を被験者の手の甲の同面積領域に塗布して化粧料塗膜を形成した。次いで、一定の力で手指を往復させて各塗膜を塗擦し、塗膜の色が変化するまでに要した塗擦(往復)回数により評価した。
A+:3往復以下
A:4~6往復
B:7~10往復
C:11往復以上
各例の化粧料(同量)の唇への塗布時および塗布後、唇をすり合わせた時に感じるざらざら感により評価した。
A:強く感じる
B:わずかに感じる
C:感じない
各例の化粧料を汎用の混合装置(ホモミキサー)を用いて混合して製造し、その製造工程中に顔料を含む粒子((a)成分)がつぶれて化粧料の色調変化が生じるか否かにより評価した。
A+:色調変化は全く観察されなかった。
A:色調変化はほとんど観察されなかった。
B:わずかな色調変化を生じたが、化粧料全体の色調を変化させるものではなかった。
C:化粧料全体の色調が変化した。
各例の化粧料(同量)を唇に塗布後、手指による塗擦又は唇のすり合わせによって色調変化が生じた際の印象の変化により評価した。なお、塗擦又はすり合わせは、各例の化粧料の色調変化が完了するまで実施した。
A+:唇の外観の印象が顕著に変化した。
A:唇の外観の印象がかなり変化した。
B:唇の外観の印象がほとんど変化しなかった。
C:唇の外観の印象が全く変化しなかった。
なお、上記(4)「色調変化」において、「(a)顔料を含む粒子」として赤色顔料などの暖色系顔料を用いた場合には、色調変化の評価結果が「A+」又は「A」となる化粧料については、血色感向上という効果が得られたことも付記する。
Claims (6)
- (a)顔料を含む多層型カプセル粒子、
(b)粒子径が50~600μmの水溶性スクラブ剤、
を含む油性化粧料であって、
前記(b)水溶性スクラブ剤が、フルクトース、スクロース、ラクチトール、キシリトールおよびソルビトールからなる群から選択される少なくとも1つであり、
前記(b)水溶性スクラブ剤の配合量が化粧料全量に対して2~20質量%であり、かつ、(a)顔料を含む多層型カプセル粒子と(b)水溶性スクラブ剤の配合比率(質量比)[(b)/(a)]が0.5以上2.5未満であることを特徴とする、油性化粧料。 - 前記(a)顔料を含む多層型カプセル粒子の配合量が、化粧料全量に対して1~10質量%である、請求項1に記載の油性化粧料。
- 前記(b)水溶性スクラブ剤がスクロースである、請求項1に記載の油性化粧料。
- 水の配合量が、化粧料全量に対して1質量%以下である、請求項1に記載の油性化粧料。
- 固形化粧料である、請求項1から4のいずれか一項に記載の油性化粧料。
- 硬度が10~70gfである、請求項5に記載の油性化粧料。
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