JP6029822B2 - 水中油型乳化組成物 - Google Patents
水中油型乳化組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP6029822B2 JP6029822B2 JP2011257092A JP2011257092A JP6029822B2 JP 6029822 B2 JP6029822 B2 JP 6029822B2 JP 2011257092 A JP2011257092 A JP 2011257092A JP 2011257092 A JP2011257092 A JP 2011257092A JP 6029822 B2 JP6029822 B2 JP 6029822B2
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- QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-DQCZWYHMSA-N γ-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-DQCZWYHMSA-N 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
Protection Factor)、UVA防御能をPA(Protection Grade of UVA)として表されている。さらに、より高い紫外線防御能を付与されている紫外線防御化粧料としては伸びやもちの観点から乳化剤形が好まれている。かかる乳化剤形には、油中水型乳化剤形や水中油型乳化剤形などが挙げられる。
(a)ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル
(b)アニオン系界面活性剤
(c)油溶性皮膜剤
(d)A領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤
(e)B領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤
(f)微粒子金属酸化物
(2)前記(b)のアニオン系界面活性剤が、アシル乳酸及び/又はその塩であることを特徴とする(1)に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
(3)前記(c)の油溶性皮膜剤がシリコーン系であることを特徴とする(1)または(2)のいずれかに記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
(4)前記(d)のA領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤が、ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル及び/又はt−ブチルメトキシベンゾイルメタンであることを特徴とする(1)〜(3)のいずれかに記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
(5)前記(e)のB領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤が、メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル、2−シアノ−3,3−ジフェニルアクリル酸2−エチルヘキシル、ジメチコジエチルベンザルマロネート、2,4,6−トリアニリノ−p−(カルボ−2’−エチルヘキシル−1’−オキシ)−1,3,5−トリアジンからなる群から選択される1種又は2種以上であることを特徴とする(1)〜(4)のいずれかに記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
(6)前記(f)の微粒子金属酸化物が、微粒子二酸化チタン及び/又は微粒子酸化亜鉛であることを特徴とする(1)〜(5)のいずれかに記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
(7)水中油型乳化組成物であることを特徴とする(1)〜(6)のいずれかに記載の紫外線防御化粧料。
本発明に関わるポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルは、乳化剤として重合度4以上であることが好ましい。さらに、かかるポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルは、重合度が4〜10のポリグリセリンと炭素数12以上の脂肪酸1種以上とのエステルがさらに好ましい。
本発明に関わるアニオン系界面活性剤は、アシル乳酸及び/又はその塩であることが好ましい。アシル乳酸を構成する、アシル基としては、炭素数8〜30の直鎖、分岐又は環状構造を有することあるアルキロイル基又はアルケロイル基が好ましく例示できる。
本発明に関わる油溶性皮膜剤は、シリコーン系であることが好ましく、アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体であることがさらに好ましい。かかるアクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体は、一般式(I)のごとく片末端に(メタ)アクリル構造を有するジメチルポリシロキサンと(メタ)アクリレートとを共重合させてなるアクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体として示される。
本発明に関わる成分として、A領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤(以下UVA吸収剤という)を含有する。このようなUVA吸収剤としては、2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン、2−(2’−ヒドロキシ−5’−メチルフェニル)ベンゾトリアゾール、ジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリジンプロピオン酸2−エチルヘキシル、ビス(レスルシニル)トリアジン、メチレンビスベンゾトリアゾリルテトラメチルブチルフェノール、ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル、t−ブチルメトキシベンゾイルメタン等の化合物が挙げられる。この中でも、紫外線吸収能に優れることから、ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル、t−ブチルメトキシベンゾイルメタンが特に好ましい。これらの化合物には市販品が存し、市販品をそのまま用いることもできる。具体的な市販品としては「ユビナール A プラス グラニュラー」(ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル BASF社製)、「パルソール1789」(t−ブチルメトキシベンゾイルメタン DSM ニュートリション ジャパン社製)が例示できる。
本発明に関わる成分として、B領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤(以下UVB吸収剤という)を含有する。このようなUVB吸収剤としては、具体的には、メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル、2−シアノ−3,3−ジフェニルアクリル酸2−エチルヘキシル、ジメチコジエチルベンザルマロネート、2,4,6−トリアニリノ−p−(カルボ−2’−エチルヘキシル−1’−オキシ)−1,3,5−トリアジン、2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン、サリチル酸ホモメンチル、サリチル酸オクチル等の化合物が例示できる。これらの化合物には市販品が存し、市販品をそのまま用いることができる。具体的な市販品としては、「ユビナールMC80」(メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル BASF社製)、「ユビナールT150」(2,4,6−トリアニリノ−p−(カルボ−2’−エチルヘキシル−1’−オキシ)−1,3,5−トリアジン BASF社製)、「ユビナールM40」(2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン BASF社製)、「パルソールSLX」(ジメチコジエチルベンザルマロネート DSM
ニュートリション ジャパン社製)、「パルソール340」(2−シアノ−3,3−ジフェニルアクリル酸2−エチルヘキシル DSMニュートリション ジャパン社製)、「パルソールHMS」(サリチル酸ホモメンチル DSM
ニュートリション ジャパン社製)が例示できる。
本発明に関わる微粒子金属酸化物とは、平均一次粒子径が10〜80nmの範囲にあるものを指す。より詳細には、微粒子二酸化チタン、微粒子酸化亜鉛、微粒子酸化ジルコニウム、微粒子酸化セリウム等が好適に例示できる。これらの微粒子金属酸化物は、その表面が、シリカ、アルミナ等の無機化合物、あるいは脂肪酸金属石鹸、シリコーン等の有機化合物により被覆されていても良い。これら微粒子金属酸化物の中で、紫外線散乱効果に優れることから、微粒子二酸化チタン、微粒子酸化亜鉛が特に好ましい。
また、微粒子酸化亜鉛としては、「MZ−300」、「MZY−303S」、「MZ−306X」、「MZ−500」、「MZY−505S」、「MZ−506X」、「MZY−510M3S」、「MZ−510HPSX」、「WSX−MZ−700」(以上、テイカ(株)製)、「SANT−UFZO−450」、「SANT−UFZO−500」(以上、三好化成(株)製)、「FZO−50」(石原産業(株)製)、「マックスライトZS−032」、「マックスライトZS−032D」(以上、昭和電工(株)製)等が挙げられる。
<製造例1>
水相への微粒子二酸化チタンの配合は、特開2010-150164に記載のごとく、二酸化チタン複合体として配合することが分散性向上の観点から好ましい。本水分散ペーストを調製するにあたり、微粒子二酸化チタン「MT−05」(シリカアルミナ処理微粒子二酸化チタン テイカ(株)製)を用いた。シリカアルミナ処理二酸化チタン換算で20g/Lのチタニア微粒子水分散液5Lとポリアクリル酸(重合度5000)20g(和光純薬工業(株)製)を純水8Lに溶解した溶液を混合し、1時間の熟成後、さらに2N苛性ソーダ水溶液pHを5に調整し、さらに1時間熟成した。これを濾過、洗浄して湿ケーキを得て、純水中にリパルプした後、チタニア微粒子複合体(固形分濃度25%、pH7.5)を得た(試料A)。
<製造例2>
微粒子二酸化チタン「MT−100TV」(テイカ(株)製)50g、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン56g、セスキイソステアリン酸ソルビタン4gをコボールミル(神鋼パンテック(株)製)にとり、8時間混合粉砕を行い、油剤分散微粒子二酸化チタンペーストを得た。
<製造例3>
微粒子酸化亜鉛「MZ−503」(テイカ(株)製)を製造例2と同様の操作を行って、微粒子酸化亜鉛ペーストを得た(試料B)。
製造例3における微粒子酸化亜鉛を「MZY−510M3S」(テイカ(株)製)に代え、製造例2と同様の操作を行って、微粒子酸化亜鉛ペーストを得た。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物においては、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルとアニオン系界面活性剤の混合比は、特に制限されないが、重量比で1:20〜20:1の範囲内にあることが好ましい。また、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルとアニオン系界面活性剤の合計量は、化粧料全量に対し0.1〜10.0重量%が好ましく、さらに0.2〜3.0重量%でることがより好ましい。このようなポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルとアニオン系界面活性剤の混合乳化剤としては、例えば特開平7−284645号公報に記載のものを用いることができる。また、かかる混合乳化剤に高級アルコールを加えたものが市販品として存し、かかる市販品を使用することもできる。かかる市販品としては、例えばニコムルス41(日光ケミカルズ(株)製)等を好ましく例示することができる。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物は、上記成分を常法により処理することにより得られる。
[使用性(のび及びやわらかさ)]
女性パネラー20名に試験品を肌に塗布してもらい、使用性(のび及びやわらかさ)について評価した。評価基準は以下に示し、結果を表2に示す。
(評価基準)
◎ :良いと答えた人数が18人以上
○ :良いと答えた人数が11〜17人
△ :良いと答えた人数が6〜10人
× :良いと答えた人数が5人以下
In vitroにおけるSPF(Sun Protection Factor)の持続性について評価した。すなわち、VITRO-SKIN(登録商標)の表面に2mg/cm2となるように表1に示した試験品を塗布し、20分間乾燥後、SPFアナライザー(Labsphere社製)によりSPFの初期値を測定した。その後、化粧料を塗布したVITRO-SKIN(登録商標)を、40分間攪拌条件下浸水し、よく乾燥させてから浸水後のSPFを測定した。浸水後のSPF/初期のSPF×100(%)の値を算出し、以下の評価基準で評価して結果を表2に示す。
(評価基準)
◎ :90%以上
○ :80%以上、90%未満
△ :60%以上、80%未満
× :60%未満
パネラーの前腕部に5×5cmの区画を設定し、試験品50mgを均一になるように塗布した。30℃、相対湿度80%の恒温室に2時間滞在させ、汗をかく程度に軽い運動を実施する負荷試験を行った。負荷試験後に、塗布部にUVランプを照射し、暗色となっている部分を負荷試験前と比較し、以下の基準で評価して結果を表2に示す(塗布部が暗色であれば耐汗性があると評価できる)。
(評価基準)
◎ :暗色部に変化なし
○ :暗色部が僅かに薄くなっている
△ :暗色部が明らかに薄くなっている
× :ほぼ暗色部がない
表1の処方に従って試験品を調整し、40℃で2週間保管し、経時での安定性について評価した。評価基準は以下に示し、結果を表2に示す。
◎ :外観上、機能上問題なし
○ :外観上、凝集物が認められるが、機能性に問題なし
△ :ゲル感が認められる
× :乳化せず
表1の処方に従って試験品を調整し、ドクターブレードにて透明スライドガラスに膜厚0.5milの膜を引き、30分間乾燥後、膜の透明性を目視にて評価した。評価基準は以下に示し、結果を表2に示す。
◎ :透明感がある
○ :透明感はあるが、若干白色を呈する
△ :透明感はほとんどなく、白色を呈する
× :透明感はなく、白色を呈する
表1に示す処方に従って、本発明の水中油型乳化組成物である実施例、及び比較例の水中油型乳化化粧料を調製した。すなわち、(イ)相にてキサンタンガムを均一分散し、ココグリセリル硫酸Naを溶解させた。次に、(ロ)相を80℃にて均一溶解した後、(ハ)を投入し、加熱を続けながらディスパーを用いて4000rpmで5分間攪拌し、(ロ)(ハ)の混合物を(イ)相に投入し、80℃にて乳化した。その後冷却し、(ニ)(ホ)(へ)を添加し、実施例及び比較例を得た。
以下の表1に示す処方に基づき、製造例5に示したごとく実施例1〜8及び比較例1〜3を調製し、前記評価を行った。評価結果を表2に示す。
[UVB防御効果(耐水性試験)]
耐水性試験は、FDA(米国食品医薬品局)の最終モノグラフに準拠して実施した。すなわち、被験者が屋内プールで20分間の水中運動の後、20分間の休憩をはさんで再び20分間の水中運動を実施し、この前後でSPF(Sun
Protection Factor)を測定し、浸水前と浸水後でのSPFから耐水性を評価するものである。当該試験は、実施例2に関して実施した。結果を表3に示す。
[UV-A防御効果]
日本化粧品工業連合会で策定した「UVA防止効果測定法基準」(1995年)に従って、UVA防御効果(PFA:UVA-Protection Factor)を測定した。当該試験は、実施例2に関して実施した。結果を表3に示す。
Claims (7)
- 以下の(a)、(b)、(c)、(d)、(e)、及び(f)を含有することを特徴とする水中油型乳化組成物。
(a)ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル
(b)アニオン系界面活性剤
(c)アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体及び/又はトリメチルシロキシケイ酸
(d)A領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤
(e)B領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤
(f)微粒子金属酸化物 - 前記(b)のアニオン系界面活性剤が、アシル乳酸及び/又はその塩であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 前記(c)アクリル−シリコーン系グラフト共重合体が、下記一般式(I)で表されるジメチルポリシロキサンと(メタ)アクリレートとの共重合体であることを特徴とする請求項1または請求項2に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 前記(d)のA領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤が、ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル及び/又はt−ブチルメトキシベンゾイルメタンであることを特徴とする請求項1〜請求項3のいずれか一項に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 前記(e)のB領域の紫外線を吸収する紫外線吸収剤が、メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキ
シル、2−シアノ−3,3−ジフェニルアクリル酸2−エチルヘキシル、ジメチコジエチルベンザルマロネート、及び2,4,6−トリアニリノ−p−(カルボ−2'−エチルヘキシル−1'−オキシ)−1,3,5−トリアジンからなる群から選択される1種又は2種
以上であることを特徴とする請求項1〜請求項4のいずれか一項に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。 - 前記(f)の微粒子金属酸化物が、微粒子二酸化チタン及び/又は微粒子酸化亜鉛であることを特徴とする請求項1〜請求項5のいずれか一項に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 紫外線防御用化粧料であることを特徴とする請求項1〜請求項6のいずれか一項に記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
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