Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/73—Rosaceae (Rose family), e.g. strawberry, chokeberry, blackberry, pear or firethorn
  • A61K36/738—Rosa (rose)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/18—Antioxidants, e.g. antiradicals
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
  • A61K2236/10—Preparation or pretreatment of starting material
  • A61K2236/19—Preparation or pretreatment of starting material involving fermentation using yeast, bacteria or both; enzymatic treatment
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
  • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

• the present invention relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood, in particular of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety, and its uses as an agent intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular of the skin. of the face and / or body.
• the skin is the body's first protective barrier against the environment. It is therefore subject to factors of exogenous origin (ex: UV radiation, temperature variations, atmospheric pollution, cigarette smoke ...) or endogenous (ex: hormones %) capable of inducing signs of skin aging , which will respectively be called extrinsic aging or intrinsic (or physiological) aging.
• Extrinsic aging leads to clinical alterations such as deep wrinkles and the formation of skin which has lost its firmness, flexibility and elasticity, the alteration of the barrier function of the skin, the alteration of the innate immunity of the skin, and the appearance of skin pigment spots, otherwise known as age spots, brown spots, solar lentigo, actinic lentigo or senile lentigo, in particular on the back of the hands, on the face, cleavage, or even the skull of the men. Dry skin is also known to be skin without radiance and more sensitive to pigmentary disorders.
• intrinsic or physiological aging notably causes a slowing down of the renewal of skin cells, keratinocytes, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue and appearance of fine lines or wrinkles.
• the skin's immune system defends itself and triggers the release, among others and in excess, of free radicals, neuropeptides and pro-inflammatory mediators, the cytokines, which lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin fibers, slows the cell renewal capacity, accelerates skin aging, thus leading to a loss of tone, elasticity and firmness with an impairment of the barrier function.
• the Applicant has highlighted the in vitro effects of an aqueous extract of rosewood, in particular rose from Jardin de Granville®, making it possible to envisage its use as an active agent for preventing and / or treating skin aging. in particular induced by oxidative stress, preventing and / or reducing an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, preventing and / or reducing the appearance of skin pigment spots, preventing and / or reducing an impairment of the innate immunity of the skin or else prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging linked to chronic micro-inflammation of the skin also known as 'inflammaging'.
• a first subject of the invention relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood, preferably of summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.
• Another subject of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of an extract of rosewood according to the invention comprising the steps: a) addition of water to plant material having an appropriate particle size, b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously also at least one protease,
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or the body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention.
• Another object of the invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention, in particular of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®, as an agent intended for prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness in the skin, deterioration of the barrier function, appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, the appearance of skin pigment spots, in particular senile lentigo (age spots) or solar lentigo, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion.
• It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, the loss of elasticity and / or the loss of firmness of the skin, the alteration of the barrier function, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, the appearance of skin pigment spots, in particular senile lentigo (age spots) or solar lentigo, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of the face and / or of the body, of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in the invention.
• dull and inhomogeneous complexion is meant in particular a complexion which lacks light and radiance, an altered, blurred complexion, presenting surface and / or color irregularities, generally associated with a perception of discomfort and manifestations felt like skin imperfections or aesthetic disorders.
• Another object of the invention is an aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention or a composition comprising it according to the invention for use for soothing the skin and / or for use in the prevention and / or treatment of skin disorders linked to chronic micro-inflammation of the skin, in particular preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging induced by chronic micro-inflammation of the skin.
• chronic micro-inflammation of the skin is understood to mean, according to the invention, invisible (silent) micro-inflammatory processes taking place locally in the skin and which, if they degenerate or are poorly resolved, become chronic.
• Chronic micro-inflammation of the skin can in particular be linked to the accumulation of tissue damage, the failure of the immune system or even to the accumulation of senescent cells secreting pro-inflammatory cytokines. Over time, these repeated micro-inflammatory events contribute to skin aging.
• a first object of the invention relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood, preferably of summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.
• aqueous extract of rosewood is advantageously obtained by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.
• polar solvent means that the solvent has a value of Polarity index which is equal to or greater than a value of 4.
• the polarity index is a quantity calculated on the basis of thermodynamic quantities (of solubility and change of state) which highlights the more or less polar nature of a molecule.
• the preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of OH type.
• a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen is chosen from water, CrC 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol. , butylene glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
• water is used.
• said extract is characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 3 to 5% and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.
• the extracts of the invention are extracts of rosewood. We will talk indifferently according to the invention of a rose extract, a rosewood extract, a rose extract, a rosewood extract or an extract in particular of the Evanrat variety or rose Jardin de Granville®.
• Those skilled in the art will preferably choose selected roses whose properties are preserved by an environment and a method of organic farming.
• an extract of rose petals of the Evanrat or rose variety 'Jardin de Granville®' will be used.
• the 'Jardin de Granville®' rose or rose is a hybrid variety offered exclusively by "Old Roses André Eve SA S" and protected by Plant Breeders' Certificate under N ° 20110345 with the name Rosa L. and the variety the name EVANRAT.
• This bush rose belongs to the group of modern hybrids, which, from May to October, is permanently covered with roses, thus showing an excellent uplifting character.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood otherwise called rosewood extract is an extract of rosewood of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®. There are two types of rosewood depending on the time of year when they are harvested:
• summer woods will be used. We will talk indifferently in the description of rosewood or summer rosewood.
• the rosewoods according to the invention are obtained from freshly cut whole roses and are isolated from the rest of the plant by manual or mechanical separation.
• rosewood is used directly for extraction.
• the rosewoods are dried beforehand before extraction.
• the rosewood is crushed before the extraction step.
• Rosewood includes monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose), and polysaccharides in particular disaccharides, polyphenols (catechin), amino acids (mainly aspartic acid tyrosine and arginine), minerals (ash, sodium, potassium, calcium), flavonoids (mostly glycosylated) and tannins.
• monosaccharide sugars fructtose, glucose
• polysaccharides in particular disaccharides
• polyphenols catechin
• amino acids mainly aspartic acid tyrosine and arginine
• minerals ash, sodium, potassium, calcium
• flavonoids mostly glycosylated
• calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens the structure of the skin
• potassium boosts skin hydration and boosts energy absorption
• Phytosugars fructtose, glucose are intended to fill the skin cells with energy.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is an extract concentrated in polar natural compounds.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is distinct from rose water. This is an extract of rosewood using the extraction of natural rosewood compounds in the presence of aqueous (polar) solvents with or without the addition of a pH modifier, and an implementation in the formulation, in the form of an aqueous solution or concentrate, the solvent for the concentrate possibly being the extraction solvent and / or an additional solvent.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention further comprises in small proportion an extract of rose flowers representing from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5%, preferably 0.1 to 0.2% of the total aqueous extract of rose according to the invention.
• the original plant material includes rosewood and rose flowers in a proportion of 0.01% flowers for 99.99% of wood to 1% flowers for 99% of wood.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention can be obtained according to various eco-extraction processes known to a person skilled in the art and in particular that described below.
• rosewood of the Evanrat variety preferably Jardin de Granville rose, preferably wood
• Jardin de Granville rose preferably wood
• Eco extraction we mean an extraction process which reduces energy consumption, but also the use of alternative solvents and renewable plant resources, while guaranteeing a safe and high-quality product / extract.
• Eco extraction favors 6 main principles (Farid Chemat, Dunod, 2010, Eco-Extraction of plants):
• solid / liquid extraction is meant a type of extraction bringing a solid (bio-sourced material) into contact with a liquid (said solvent) in order to let diffuse / impregnate one or more said soluble compound (s). (s) solute (s) in the liquid. This is generally done through more or less rapid physical and physico-chemical actions.
• the woods can be used fresh, frozen or previously dried using conventional drying tools known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, drying in the open air, in ovens, by lyophilization or zeodratation.
• the woods may have been dried and / or ground. According to another embodiment, the woods are used wet and then ground.
• the woods are crushed before extraction, for example by means of a mortar, a cryogenic grinding, a mixer, a traditional grinder or a centrifuge according to the methods known to the person skilled in job.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention can be obtained in particular by enzymatic extraction processes.
• the chosen enzymes hydrolyze some or all of the compounds in plant material in order to damage the cell wall and therefore favorably release the molecules contained.
• cell wall or "plant wall” or “pectocellulosic wall” means the element of cellular structure which protects each plant cell. It consists in particular of three parts:
• the middle coverslip rich in pectin and devoid of cellulose
• the primary wall composed mainly of cellulose (9 to 25%), hemicellulose (25 to 58%), pectins (10 to 35%), and proteins (10%),
• the secondary wall cellulose, hemicellulose.
• the enzymes will be adapted to the walls to be hydrolyzed to access these said molecules.
• Cellulase means an enzyme which can break down cellulose, a biopolymer consisting of a linear chain of D-glucose and the main constituent of the plant cell wall.
• the end product of the breakdown of cellulose by cellulase is glucose.
• cellulases such as beta-glucosidase, endo-cellulase, exo-cellulase, oxidative cellulase or even cellulose phosphorylase.
• hemicellulase is intended to mean an enzyme which can break down hemicellulose, a biopolymer constituting the plant cell wall allowing in particular the bridging between the cellulose fibers, as well as with other matrix compounds.
• hemicellulases such as arabinase, xylanase, or galactanase.
• Pectinase is understood to mean an enzyme capable of degrading pectin, a polysaccharide present in plant cell walls. There are several types of pectinases like endopolygalacturanase, or pectin methylesterase.
• proteas is intended to mean an enzyme capable of defeating peptide bonds. Proteases are used in the process of the invention to hydrolyze structural proteins and improve lysis of the raw material, not to produce peptides.
• a cellulase to release the glucose and the cellulose; a hemicellulase to release the mono and oligomers of reduced sugars; a pectinase to release uronic acids; and advantageously a protease for hydrolyzing structural proteins and improving the lysis of the raw material.
• eco-extraction is carried out using the protocol described in patent application WO2011045387 (corresponding to patent application FR2351461) in the name of the National Polytechnic Institute of Lorraine INPL. It is an alternative technology that meets regulatory and environmental constraints while remaining economically competitive.
• This innovative process makes it possible to extract from the plant material, in a single step, three types of products, namely an oil (rich in polyphenol, sterol, vitamin E nutrients, etc.), an aqueous extract and a cake ( solid phase).
• This process notably includes the following steps:
• Another object of the invention therefore relates to a process for the preparation of a rosewood extract according to the invention comprising the steps:
• Said rosewood extract according to the invention being obtained after the separation step (e).
• this extraction process does not involve organic solvents, such as hexane, which could lead to numerous problems of safety of installations and personnel, human health and preservation of the environment.
• This technology thus reduces emissions of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). It is thus a clean process allowing the extraction in the form of oil and / or aqueous extract of proteins, sugars and other co-products of high quality and directly usable in cosmetics.
• the grinding step requires adjusting the duration and the speed depending on the instrument used and the dry or wet nature of the material to be ground.
• the step of adding water requires adjusting the speed, the duration, the water / solid ratio depending in particular on the instrument to be used.
• the enzymatic hydrolysis step requires determining the enzymes to be used and adjusting various parameters such as the enzyme / substrate ratio, the hydrolysis time, the stirring speed, the pH and the temperature.
• the endogenous or exogenous enzyme inactivation step requires adjusting parameters such as inactivation temperature, temperature, duration, as well as pH.
• the centrifugation step requires adjusting parameters such as speed, temperature, duration and pH.
• the appropriate particle size of the plant material is advantageously obtained by grinding said plant material.
• the grinding must be as fine as possible to promote the action of enzymes.
• all of the particles should have a size close to 50 ⁇ m, preferably close to 10 ⁇ m.
• the mass of water added to the plant material is equal to 1 to 2 times the mass of said plant material and does not exceed this amount.
• step b) the ratio between the activity of pectinase and the activity of cellulase being at least 0.14, preferably between 0.3 and 2.5, and more preferably between 0.35 and 0.45, and the ratio between the activity of pectinase and the activity of hemicellulase being at least 7.10 3 ; preferably between 1.10 2 and 0.5, and more preferably between 1.10 2 and 2.10 2 .
• the enzyme mixture used contains at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase, at least one pectinase, and advantageously also at least one protease.
• the cellulase (s), hemicellulase (s) and pectinase (s) represent 75% of the enzymatic mixture and the protease (s) represent 25% of said enzymatic mixture.
• the cellulases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzymatic mixture
• the hemicellulases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzyme mixture
• the pectinases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzyme mixture.
• the proteases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzymatic mixture.
• the enzyme mixture used contains 25% cellulases, 25% hemicellulases, 25% pectinases and 25% proteases.
• the quantity used of the enzymatic mixture as defined above is between 0.25% and 10%, preferably between 1% and 6%, by volume of the water / plant material mixture.
• the incubation according to step c) is carried out for 2 to 20 hours, preferably between 4 and 12 hours, at a temperature between 25 ° C and 75 ° C, preferably between 40 ° C and 60 ° C , and preferably around 50 ° C.
• the hydrolysis reaction is then stopped by deactivation of the enzymes by heating preferably between 80 ° C and 105 ° C for for example 5 to 20 minutes
• reaction medium is separated, according to step d), using all the suitable known separation techniques, such as centrifugation or decantation.
• the mixture is prefiltered on a 0.8mm then 0.5mm sieve in order to remove the most important part of the solid phase, then a sterilizing filtration is advantageously carried out on clarifying plates with a pore size of 0.2 ⁇ m, at a pressure of 2 Bars.
• the aqueous phase obtained after sterilizing filtration is stabilized with the preservatives (citric acid, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate).
• said aqueous extract of rosewood is obtained by an extraction process comprising the steps: a) addition of water to the previously ground rosewood having an appropriate particle size,
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is characterized in particular by the presence of amino acids (aspartic acid, tyrosine, arginine) and total sugars (glucose, fructose).
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is also characterized by the fact that it is not a fermented extract.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood obtained according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 1 to 6% and preferably from 3 to 5 % and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.
• This rosewood extract according to the invention is called INCI name water (and) rose extract (and) citric acid (and) potassium sorbate (and) sodium benzoate.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or the body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention.
• topical application is meant a composition intended for application to keratin materials.
• an oral composition is not intended for topical application to the skin.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect.
• a content ranging from 0.1% to 80%, in particular from 0.5% to 60% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition is present in a content ranging from 50% to 80%, in particular from 60% to 75% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.
• it is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention may be in any dosage form suitable for topical application to keratin materials and in particular the skin, for example a serum, an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a microemulsion, a lotion, suspension, aqueous gel, stick, powder.
• the composition according to the invention can be a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.
• keratinous material is meant the skin and / or its integuments, and the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body and the lips.
• the composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin of the face and / or the body or on the lips and is for example in the form of a lotion, a care cream, a serum, a fluid for the face, a care gel for the face and / or the body, a lip care composition, a lip balm, a lipstick, or a gloss.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a care and / or make-up cream for the face.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel for the eye area.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for the lips.
• the aqueous phase generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
• water-soluble solvent a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).
• C1-C5 lower mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof;
• C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
• C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof,
• hydrophilic gelling agents antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
• hydrophilic gelling agents As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of acrylic acid polymers such as those of INCI Carbomer name or of Carbopol® commercial reference, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers, associative thickeners of acrylic type or polyurethane, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, natural or modified gums such as xanthan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan gums, chitosans, mannans, pullulans, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, pectins, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.
• acrylic acid polymers such as those of INCI Carbomer name or of Carbopol® commercial reference, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers, associative thickeners of acrylic type or polyurethane, polysaccharide gelling agents such
• Natural or modified gum is meant an optionally modified polysaccharide which hydrates in an aqueous medium to form a viscous solution or a dispersion.
• Natural gums include algae extracts, plant exudates and gums extracted from vegetable seeds or roots and those obtained by microbiological fermentation.
• Modified or semi-synthetic gums include derivatives of cellulose and starch and, in general, derivatives of all natural gums.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a gelled aqueous phase, in particular by the presence of at least one acrylic polymer, in particular a polymer of acrylic acid or copolymer of acrylic and methacrylic acid.
• the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 0.7 to 4%, preferably from 0.9 to 3% and preferably still from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise an oily phase (solid fatty substances) or an oily phase.
• oily phase is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with one another.
• oil is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure.
• An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, and mixtures thereof.
• oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
• hydrocarbon oil '' is meant according to the invention an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
• silicon oil is understood to mean, according to the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
• fluorinated oil is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
• non-volatile hydrocarbon oils mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers of C10-C40, synthetic esters of C10-C40, fatty alcohols of C12-C26, acids higher C12-C22 fats, and mixtures thereof.
• non-volatile silicone oils mention may in particular be made of phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
• the oils may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the fatty or oily phase can also include lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers, surfactants, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.
• the cosmetic composition is in the form of a solution, an emulsion, a serum or a gel.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention does not include any rose extract other than rose extracts of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety.
• composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents. age, lifting agents, tensing agents, agents plumping agents, soothing agents, antipollution agents, lightening or depigmenting agents, fillers, nacres and their mixtures.
• cosmetic active agents such as, for example, emollients, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents. age, lifting agents, tensing agents, agents plumping agents, soothing agents, antipollution agents, lightening or depigmenting agents, fillers, nacres and their mixtures.
• the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, emollient agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tensing agents, plumping agents, soothing agents, antipollution agents, lightening or depigmenting agents, fillers, nacres and their mixtures.
• a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, emollient agents,
• the composition also comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from an antioxidant agent, a lifting agent, a tightening agent, a plumping agent, a soothing agent, an anti-pollution agent and / or a depigmenting agent. . It can also include fillers and / or nacres, in particular white nacres, intended to mask color imperfections (dark circles) and illuminate the eyes.
• Cosmetic and other uses also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention, in particular of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®, as agent intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, deterioration of the barrier function, appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion.
• a non-therapeutic cosmetic process intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, alteration of the barrier function, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of the face and / or of the body and / or lips, of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in the invention.
• skin and / or lips means in particular healthy skin and / or lips, that is to say that does not present any disorders or disorders which would arise from a pathological condition (subjects' not healthy ', suffering from a pathology).
• the composition is applied to dry, fragile, sensitive, stressed skin, and in particular tired skin which has lost its firmness, its flexibility and its elasticity.
• the composition is applied to dry, fragile, sensitive and / or stressed lips. According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to dry and / or fragile lips. In another mode, on stressed lips. According to another mode, on sensitive lips.
• Another subject of the invention is an aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention or a composition comprising according to the invention for use for soothing the skin, and / or preventing and / or treating skin disorders linked to a Chronic micro-inflammation of the skin, in particular preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging induced by chronic micro-inflammation of the skin.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood is used on skin presenting disorders linked to chronic micro-inflammation, in particular inflammation due to endogenous and / or exogenous stresses having inflammatory effects.
• the present invention also relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention or a composition comprising it for use for reducing solar lentigo.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood is used on skins having alterations linked to the sun.
• the composition can be applied to the skin of the face and / or of the body or to the lips. According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to the face and / or the body.
• the present invention relates to a rosewood extract according to the invention, or a composition containing it to soothe the skin, and / or prevent and / or treat skin disorders linked to micro-inflammation. chronic skin.
• the present invention also relates to a rosewood extract according to the invention, or a composition containing it to reduce solar lentigo.
• the present invention relates to a method for treating keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or the lips, to soothe the skin, and / or prevent and / or treat skin disorders linked to a micro- chronic inflammation of the skin, comprising the administration to a person who needs it, of an extract of rosewood according to the invention, or a composition containing it.
• the invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous materials, preferably the skin and / or the lips, for reducing solar lentigo, comprising the administration to a person in need thereof of a wood extract. rose according to the invention, or a composition containing it.
• the raw materials here rosewood, possibly supplemented with rose flowers, were reduced to powder in three stages.
• Stage 1 passage through a garden shredder in order to obtain two-centimeter sections
• Step 2 passage through an industrial mill
• the enzymatic extraction was carried out in a reactor with a maximum capacity of 70 l.
• the reactor is agitated by a propeller and is thermostatically controlled by a double jacket.
• the mixture was raised to a temperature of 85 ° C for 1 min and then stabilized at 50 ° C.
• 0.8 Kg of a HEL1 PR1 Enzymatic cocktail comprising a mixture of cellulases, hemicellulases and pectinases at 75% and proteases at 25%, were added to the corresponding reaction mixture (5% w / w). The reaction is continued for 4 hours, the temperature is maintained at 50 ° C.
• the mixture was brought to 85 ° C for 1 min in order to inactivate the enzymes, then brought back to 35 ° C.
• the mixture is prefiltered on a 0.8mm then 0.5mm sieve in order to remove the most important part of the solid phase, then on a sheet.
• Sterilizing filtration Filtration was carried out on clarifying plates (PALL corporation) with a pore size of 0.2 ⁇ m, at a pressure of 2 bars.
• the aqueous phase obtained after sterilizing filtration is stabilized with the following preservatives:
• an aqueous extract of rosewood is obtained at 3.7% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract.
• This extract is used in the following examples aiming to highlight its effects on the skin; the following examples use cultures of keratinocytes and / or melanocytes.
• TLDA Taqman Low Density Array
• the aqueous extract of rosewood is tested at 0.1% or 0.25% by weight of raw material (excipient water).
• Normal human keratinocytes come from a skin sample from plastic surgery.
• the cells are grown in a complete Epilife medium with a seeding density of 50,000 cells per well, in 12-well plates. At sub confluence, the cells are treated for 24 hours with the doses of rose extracts described above.
• RNAs are extracted according to defined protocols.
• RNA solutions obtained are assayed, and their quality verified, using a microplate reader, spectrostarNANO (BMG Labtech) coupled to MicrolabSTAR.
• This device is connected to the computer controlling the Robotics platform and has specific software for analyzing the results (MARS software).
• the technique requires a 384-well micro plate (LoBase), a positive control (RNA 250, AM7155, Thermofisher) to validate the pipetting performed by the robot as well as the values generated by the spectrostarNANO reader.
• RT reverse transcription kit
• Thermo Fisher The reverse transcription kit used is the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher). It was used according to the protocol provided. 500 ng of total RNA are diluted in water for a final volume of 25 pL. They are then incubated for 10 minutes at 25 ° C and then 2 hours at 37 ° C in the presence of 25 ⁇ L of reaction mixture of High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X previously prepared as indicated below. The different incubations are carried out within TRobot (Biométra).
• PCR-TagMan Low Density Array 15 pl_ of each RT is mixed with 60 mI of water then 75 mI_ of TaqMan Gene
• Expression master mix (ThermoFisher), containing DNA polymerase, are added. After homogenization, 100 ml are deposited on the microfluidic cards containing the probes corresponding to the genes tested (table 2 below), the latter are centrifuged and then sealed. The CD Rom corresponding to the profile of the genes deposited on the plates is loaded into the SDS 2.3 software, specifying the location of each gene on the map. The control gene (or “endogeneous” gene) to be used for the normalization of the results is to be indicated before the launch of the PCR. The latter is carried out according to the protocol provided by Applied Biosystems in the ABI Prism 7900HT Sequence detection System device.
• the qPCR steps are 2 min at 50 ° C, 10 min at 94.5 ° C then 30 s at 97 ° C and 1 min at 59.7 ° C for 40 cycles.
• the skilled person determines which are the relevant genes to be included in the study; it is his general knowledge to determine and optimize for each gene the nucleotide sequences of the PCR primers to be used.
• the relative quantification values (RQ) obtained correspond to the amplitude level (x times more or less than the control) of the expression compared to our control here the non-irradiated.
• the RQ is obtained by the following calculation where the control is equal to 1:
• ACt treated Ct target gene treated - Ct household gene treated
• Table 3 Modulation of the expression of the genes of interest after treatment with the rosewood extract according to the invention
• aqueous extract of rosewood stimulates genes involved in the response to oxidative stress, and thus makes it possible to limit the accumulation of free radicals.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood is therefore advantageous for a use intended to prevent and / or reduce skin reactions in particular caused by the environment, pollution, tobacco and thus to fight against cellular aging of the skin.
• Table 5 Modulation of the expression of the genes of interest after treatment with the rosewood extract according to the invention
• aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention stimulates numerous mediators of epidermal differentiation and of cellular cohesion.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is therefore advantageous for promoting and / or stimulating the skin barrier function and in particular for promoting the firmness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin.
• Example 5 Effect of the aqueous extract of rosewood on the transfer of melanin
• the objective of this study is to study the supposed depigmenting effect of the rosewood extract according to the invention. This evaluation is carried out by measuring the rate of melanin transfer in a keratinocyte / melanocyte co-culture model. KHN / MHN co-culture model
• KHNs are seeded at the rate of 50,000 cells / well in 1 ml of a mixture of Epilife medium and M254 (Invitrogen), 25% and 75% respectively, in 24-well culture supports.
• the MHNs are added at the rate of 4000 cells / well in 400 ⁇ L / well in the same renewed medium.
• the coculture is treated or not with active ingredients (the rosewood extract according to the invention or a positive control).
• active ingredients the rosewood extract according to the invention or a positive control.
• An untreated control and a positive control, niacinamide (Sigma) at a concentration of 10 mMoI / L are included in the study.
• the cells are treated for 48 hours without renewal with the rosewood extract according to the invention at 0.1% or with niacinamide for the positive control condition.
• the culture wells are filled with a 0.1% PBS / Triton solution (Sigma) for 10 minutes in order to permeabilize the membranes of the fixed cells, then rinsed twice with PBS.
• the cells are covered with a 1% PBS / BSA solution (Sigma). After 30 minutes at room temperature, the PBS / BSA solution is removed.
• the cells are then covered with a solution of primary anti-melanoma marker HMB45 antibody (Dako,, Mouse) diluted 1 / 150th in the 1% PBS-BSA solution, for 2 hours at room temperature. The cells are then rinsed 3 times in a PBS solution.
• the cells are then covered with a solution of secondary anti-mouse antibodies (Alexa fluor 568, goat anti-mouse, Invitrogen) diluted 1 / 300th in a solution of PBS-BSA 1%.
• Cell nuclei are stained with DAPI diluted 1 / 100th (Invitrogen) as well as labeling of actin with phalloidin Alexa Fluor 488 diluted 1 / 100th in the secondary antibody solution.
• the cells are incubated for 60 minutes at room temperature, protected from light.
• the culture wells are rinsed 3 times in PBS and then a few drops of mounting medium (DAKO) are deposited on the cells.
• DAKO mounting medium
• Image Analysis Images are analyzed using Cell Profiler analysis software. A program is created to quantify the number of melanosomes transferred per keratinocyte surface. The results are transferred directly to a Microsoft Excel file.
• the positive control as well as the different doses of ingredients tested are compared to the untreated control.
• a decrease in melanosome transfer of -30% is observed for the positive control (niacinamide) compared to the untreated control.
• the extract of rosewood at a dose of 0.1% there is a significant decrease of -30% in the number of melanosomes transferred by keratinocyte compared to the untreated control, ie a level equivalent to the positive niacinamide control.
• This study therefore highlights the depigmenting effect of rosewood extract.
• the use of this extract is therefore particularly advantageous for preventing and / or treating the inhomogeneous appearance of the complexion, the appearance of skin pigment spots, or age spots, in particular on the back of the hands, on the face, the cleavage , or the skull of men.
• Table 7 Modulation of the expression of the genes of interest after treatment with the rosewood extract according to the invention
• aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention inhibits numerous mediators of inflammation, in particular of cytokines, of cytokine receptors.
• the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is therefore advantageous for a use intended to prevent and / or reduce the effects of chronic micro-inflammation of the skin and thus fight against aging of the skin or inflammaging.
• Aqueous phase Aqueous phase :
• Demineralized water qs 100.0%
• Carbomer (Carbopol® 981) 0.3%
• Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.0%
• composition is prepared according to the following procedure:
• the gelling agents are dispersed in the aqueous phase (excluding aqueous extract of rosewood and sodium hydroxide) which is brought to 70 ° C;
• the fatty phase (excluding perfume concentrate, antioxidant) is heated to 70 ° C; the emulsion is produced by introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with vigorous stirring;
• the gelling agents are neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide and the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring with the introduction of the perfume concentrate, the antioxidant and the aqueous extract of rosewood at low temperature.
• this composition imparts tone, elasticity and firmness, the features are enhanced, the face is reshaped.
• composition in the form of a solid dispersion of fatty substances, of spherical or spheroid form Aqueous phase
• Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.00%
• the molten fatty phase is poured with stirring into water previously heated to the same temperature as the fatty phase;
• the dispersion obtained is rapidly cooled by adding pre-cooled glycol water (approximately -4 ° C) to solidify the lipid spheroids;
• agitation is stopped when the spheroids are solidified and are then recovered from the surface or filtered;
• the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the water, xanthan gum, the preservative, and the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention;
• the spheroids are recovered on the surface and incorporated into the xanthan gel containing the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention.
• this composition makes it possible to reduce the visible signs of aging, in particular by imparting tone and firmness to the skin; the oval of the face is as redrawn.
• Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 80.00%
• the rosewood extract according to the invention and the preservatives are mixed and homogenized at room temperature with stirring.
• the sugars are added with stirring, then the carbomer, then the water and the EDTA with stirring.
• the aqueous gel is then neutralized with the addition of sodium hydroxide with stirring until a homogeneous gel is obtained.
• this aqueous gel corrects cutaneous dryness, and dull or inhomogeneous complexion, and contributes to the youth of the skin.
• Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.0%
• the ingredients of the aqueous phase (water, glycols and carbomer) are mixed at 80 ° C with stirring.
• the preservatives are then added, then the gelling agents at 80 ° C. with stirring, then the temperature is lowered to 75 ° C.
• the surfactants are emulsified in the aqueous phase with stirring.
• the fillers and nacres, previously pasted and homogenized, are added at 40 ° C.
• the cryo extract, the aqueous rosewood extract according to the invention is then added at 40 ° C., with stirring up to 30 ° C.
• Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.0%
• This composition is prepared by mixing the ingredients according to conventional methods of formulation of balms.
• This lip balm after application on dry and / or fragile lips, allows to hydrate and smooth them.

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• 2018
  • 2018-12-20 FR FR1873706A patent/FR3090380B1/fr active Active
• 2019
  • 2019-12-10 EP EP19816335.4A patent/EP3897566A1/de active Pending
  • 2019-12-10 CN CN201980089401.XA patent/CN113316448A/zh active Pending
  • 2019-12-10 WO PCT/EP2019/084365 patent/WO2020126653A1/fr unknown
  • 2019-12-10 JP JP2021536221A patent/JP7387741B2/ja active Active
  • 2019-12-10 KR KR1020217022195A patent/KR20210107724A/ko unknown
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