EP3897566A1

EP3897566A1 - Rosewood extract

Info

Publication number: EP3897566A1
Application number: EP19816335.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jocelyne Franchi; Virginie Pecher; Milène JUAN
Original assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Current assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date: 2018-12-20
Filing date: 2019-12-10
Publication date: 2021-10-27
Also published as: FR3090380A1; JP7387741B2; CN113316448A; WO2020126653A1; JP2022515409A; FR3090380B1; US20220047495A1; KR20210107724A

Abstract

The invention relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood, preferably rosewood from summer roses, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, a process for producing same, and uses thereof, particularly as an agent for preventing and/or reducing the signs of aging on the skin.

Description

ROSEWOOD EXTRACT

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood, in particular of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety, and its uses as an agent intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular of the skin. of the face and / or body.

STATE OF THE ART

The skin is the body's first protective barrier against the environment. It is therefore subject to factors of exogenous origin (ex: UV radiation, temperature variations, atmospheric pollution, cigarette smoke ...) or endogenous (ex: hormones ...) capable of inducing signs of skin aging , which will respectively be called extrinsic aging or intrinsic (or physiological) aging. Extrinsic aging leads to clinical alterations such as deep wrinkles and the formation of skin which has lost its firmness, flexibility and elasticity, the alteration of the barrier function of the skin, the alteration of the innate immunity of the skin, and the appearance of skin pigment spots, otherwise known as age spots, brown spots, solar lentigo, actinic lentigo or senile lentigo, in particular on the back of the hands, on the face, cleavage, or even the skull of the men. Dry skin is also known to be skin without radiance and more sensitive to pigmentary disorders. Concomitantly, intrinsic or physiological aging notably causes a slowing down of the renewal of skin cells, keratinocytes, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue and appearance of fine lines or wrinkles.

Endogenous and / or exogenous stresses can also be a major cause of inflammaging (or inflamma'ging or inflamm'age), resulting from the contraction of the terms "inflammation" and "aging". This chronic and silent process of inflammation, deciphered by Franceschi C et al. in 2000 (Inflamm-aging. An evolutionary perspective on immunosenescence. Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences. 2000; 908: 244-254) is described as a natural defense response by the immune system to stress that degenerates into a process chronic and silent micro-inflammatory, responsible in particular for the aging of keratin materials and in particular of the skin. With age, repetitive micro-inflammations spread in the skin tissue and weaken the defense systems of the cells, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles, sagging skin, dry skin, and / or dull complexion and inhomogeneous. This phenomenon increases over time and affects all skin types, in particular sensitive skin, which is more vulnerable to stress and external aggressions. With age, the epidermis, thinner and more fragile, is also more permeable to these aggressors which generate stress on its cells and unbalance its natural state of homeostasis. The skin's immune system defends itself and triggers the release, among others and in excess, of free radicals, neuropeptides and pro-inflammatory mediators, the cytokines, which lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin fibers, slows the cell renewal capacity, accelerates skin aging, thus leading to a loss of tone, elasticity and firmness with an impairment of the barrier function. We are therefore looking for new anti-aging ingredients capable of preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging described above.

Unexpectedly, the Applicant has highlighted the in vitro effects of an aqueous extract of rosewood, in particular rose from Jardin de Granville®, making it possible to envisage its use as an active agent for preventing and / or treating skin aging. in particular induced by oxidative stress, preventing and / or reducing an alteration of the barrier function of the skin, preventing and / or reducing the appearance of skin pigment spots, preventing and / or reducing an impairment of the innate immunity of the skin or else prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging linked to chronic micro-inflammation of the skin also known as 'inflammaging'. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A first subject of the invention relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood, preferably of summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.

Another subject of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of an extract of rosewood according to the invention comprising the steps: a) addition of water to plant material having an appropriate particle size, b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously also at least one protease,

c) incubation with stirring of the plant material and of the enzymatic mixture in order to release oils, proteins and fermentable sugars into the reaction medium, for a period depending on the yields sought,

d) separation of the reaction medium to obtain free oil, an aqueous phase containing proteins and fermentable sugars, and a solid phase, and

e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or the body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention.

Another object of the invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention, in particular of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®, as an agent intended for prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness in the skin, deterioration of the barrier function, appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, the appearance of skin pigment spots, in particular senile lentigo (age spots) or solar lentigo, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, the loss of elasticity and / or the loss of firmness of the skin, the alteration of the barrier function, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, the appearance of skin pigment spots, in particular senile lentigo (age spots) or solar lentigo, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of the face and / or of the body, of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in the invention.

By "dull and inhomogeneous complexion" is meant in particular a complexion which lacks light and radiance, an altered, blurred complexion, presenting surface and / or color irregularities, generally associated with a perception of discomfort and manifestations felt like skin imperfections or aesthetic disorders.

Another object of the invention is an aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention or a composition comprising it according to the invention for use for soothing the skin and / or for use in the prevention and / or treatment of skin disorders linked to chronic micro-inflammation of the skin, in particular preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging induced by chronic micro-inflammation of the skin.

The term “chronic micro-inflammation of the skin” is understood to mean, according to the invention, invisible (silent) micro-inflammatory processes taking place locally in the skin and which, if they degenerate or are poorly resolved, become chronic. Chronic micro-inflammation of the skin can in particular be linked to the accumulation of tissue damage, the failure of the immune system or even to the accumulation of senescent cells secreting pro-inflammatory cytokines. Over time, these repeated micro-inflammatory events contribute to skin aging.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Rosewood extract and method of preparation

A first object of the invention relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood, preferably of summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.

We will talk indifferently of aqueous extract or polar extract or hydrophilic extract of rose or eco-extract in the description. The aqueous extract of rosewood is advantageously obtained by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent. By “rosewood extract” or “aqueous rosewood extract” according to the invention, it is understood in particular that the polar (hydrophilic) compounds of the rosewoods have dissolved and / or have been extracted in a polar solvent. Advantageously, this rosewood extract is obtained by an eco-extraction process. We will thus speak of eco-extract of rosewood. The expression “polar solvent” means that the solvent has a value of Polarity index which is equal to or greater than a value of 4. The polarity index is a quantity calculated on the basis of thermodynamic quantities (of solubility and change of state) which highlights the more or less polar nature of a molecule. Reference is made, for the polarity indices of the solvents, to the article by LR SNYDER: Classification of the solvent properties of common liquids; Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230. The preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of OH type.

As a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen is chosen from water, CrC ₄ alcohols, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol. , butylene glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, water is used.

According to a particular embodiment, said extract is characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 3 to 5% and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

Plant material

The extracts of the invention are extracts of rosewood. We will talk indifferently according to the invention of a rose extract, a rosewood extract, a rose extract, a rosewood extract or an extract in particular of the Evanrat variety or rose Jardin de Granville®.

Those skilled in the art will preferably choose selected roses whose properties are preserved by an environment and a method of organic farming. According to a particular and preferred mode, an extract of rose petals of the Evanrat or rose variety 'Jardin de Granville®' will be used. The 'Jardin de Granville®' rose or rose is a hybrid variety offered exclusively by "Old Roses André Eve SA S" and protected by Plant Breeders' Certificate under N ° 20110345 with the name Rosa L. and the variety the name EVANRAT. This bush rose belongs to the group of modern hybrids, which, from May to October, is permanently covered with roses, thus showing an excellent uplifting character. Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous extract of rosewood otherwise called rosewood extract is an extract of rosewood of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®. There are two types of rosewood depending on the time of year when they are harvested:

- Winter woods, generally harvested between November and April

- Summer woods, generally harvested between May and October.

According to a particular and preferred mode, summer woods will be used. We will talk indifferently in the description of rosewood or summer rosewood. The rosewoods according to the invention are obtained from freshly cut whole roses and are isolated from the rest of the plant by manual or mechanical separation.

In a particular embodiment, rosewood is used directly for extraction.

In another embodiment, the rosewoods are dried beforehand before extraction.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the rosewood is crushed before the extraction step.

Rosewood includes monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose), and polysaccharides in particular disaccharides, polyphenols (catechin), amino acids (mainly aspartic acid tyrosine and arginine), minerals (ash, sodium, potassium, calcium), flavonoids (mostly glycosylated) and tannins.

In particular, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens the structure of the skin, while potassium boosts skin hydration and boosts energy absorption. Phytosugars (fructose, glucose) are intended to fill the skin cells with energy.

The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is an extract concentrated in polar natural compounds. The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is distinct from rose water. This is an extract of rosewood using the extraction of natural rosewood compounds in the presence of aqueous (polar) solvents with or without the addition of a pH modifier, and an implementation in the formulation, in the form of an aqueous solution or concentrate, the solvent for the concentrate possibly being the extraction solvent and / or an additional solvent. According to a particular mode, the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention further comprises in small proportion an extract of rose flowers representing from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5%, preferably 0.1 to 0.2% of the total aqueous extract of rose according to the invention. In this embodiment, the original plant material includes rosewood and rose flowers in a proportion of 0.01% flowers for 99.99% of wood to 1% flowers for 99% of wood.

Extraction process

The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention can be obtained according to various eco-extraction processes known to a person skilled in the art and in particular that described below.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably Jardin de Granville rose, preferably wood, will be used as plant material in the extraction processes adapted to the invention described below. of dried roses.

By “eco-extraction” we mean an extraction process which reduces energy consumption, but also the use of alternative solvents and renewable plant resources, while guaranteeing a safe and high-quality product / extract. Eco extraction favors 6 main principles (Farid Chemat, Dunod, 2010, Eco-Extraction of plants):

- Foster innovation through varietal selection and the use of renewable plant resources,

- Favor alternative solvents called green solvents and mainly those from agro-resources,

- Reduce energy consumption through the assistance of innovative technologies and promote energy recovery,

- Promote the creation of co-products instead of waste to integrate the path of bio or agro-refinery,

- Reduce unit operations thanks to technological innovation and promote safe, robust and controlled processes, and

- Favor an undenatured, biodegradable product, free of contaminants and above all carrying "extract" values. Water that is therefore advantageously used as the polar green solvent. By “solid / liquid extraction” is meant a type of extraction bringing a solid (bio-sourced material) into contact with a liquid (said solvent) in order to let diffuse / impregnate one or more said soluble compound (s). (s) solute (s) in the liquid. This is generally done through more or less rapid physical and physico-chemical actions. The woods can be used fresh, frozen or previously dried using conventional drying tools known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, drying in the open air, in ovens, by lyophilization or zeodratation. Thus, according to one embodiment, and prior to the extraction step itself, the woods may have been dried and / or ground. According to another embodiment, the woods are used wet and then ground.

According to a particular mode, the woods are crushed before extraction, for example by means of a mortar, a cryogenic grinding, a mixer, a traditional grinder or a centrifuge according to the methods known to the person skilled in job.

The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention can be obtained in particular by enzymatic extraction processes.

The chosen enzymes hydrolyze some or all of the compounds in plant material in order to damage the cell wall and therefore favorably release the molecules contained.

The term "cell wall" or "plant wall" or "pectocellulosic wall" means the element of cellular structure which protects each plant cell. It consists in particular of three parts:

- the middle coverslip: rich in pectin and devoid of cellulose,

- the primary wall: composed mainly of cellulose (9 to 25%), hemicellulose (25 to 58%), pectins (10 to 35%), and proteins (10%),

- the secondary wall: cellulose, hemicellulose. Depending on the molecules that one seeks to extract, the enzymes will be adapted to the walls to be hydrolyzed to access these said molecules. Advantageously, it is possible in particular to use enzymes of the cellulase, hemicellulase, pectinase or protease type, alone or in combination.

“Cellulase” means an enzyme which can break down cellulose, a biopolymer consisting of a linear chain of D-glucose and the main constituent of the plant cell wall. The end product of the breakdown of cellulose by cellulase is glucose. There are several types of cellulases such as beta-glucosidase, endo-cellulase, exo-cellulase, oxidative cellulase or even cellulose phosphorylase. The term “hemicellulase” is intended to mean an enzyme which can break down hemicellulose, a biopolymer constituting the plant cell wall allowing in particular the bridging between the cellulose fibers, as well as with other matrix compounds. There are several types of hemicellulases such as arabinase, xylanase, or galactanase.

“Pectinase” is understood to mean an enzyme capable of degrading pectin, a polysaccharide present in plant cell walls. There are several types of pectinases like endopolygalacturanase, or pectin methylesterase.

The term “protease” is intended to mean an enzyme capable of defeating peptide bonds. Proteases are used in the process of the invention to hydrolyze structural proteins and improve lysis of the raw material, not to produce peptides.

It will thus be possible to use a cellulase to release the glucose and the cellulose; a hemicellulase to release the mono and oligomers of reduced sugars; a pectinase to release uronic acids; and advantageously a protease for hydrolyzing structural proteins and improving the lysis of the raw material.

In a preferred embodiment, eco-extraction is carried out using the protocol described in patent application WO2011045387 (corresponding to patent application FR2351461) in the name of the National Polytechnic Institute of Lorraine INPL. It is an alternative technology that meets regulatory and environmental constraints while remaining economically competitive. This innovative process makes it possible to extract from the plant material, in a single step, three types of products, namely an oil (rich in polyphenol, sterol, vitamin E nutrients, etc.), an aqueous extract and a cake ( solid phase).

This process notably includes the following steps:

a) addition of water to plant material having an appropriate particle size,

b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously also at least one protease,

c) incubation with stirring of the plant material and the enzymatic mixture in order to release oils, proteins and fermentable sugars into the reaction medium, for a period depending on the yields sought, d) separation of the reaction medium to obtain free oil , an aqueous phase containing proteins and fermentable sugars, and a solid phase, and e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives. Thus, an aqueous phase corresponding to the rosewood extract according to the invention is obtained at the end of the separation step (e). Another object of the invention therefore relates to a process for the preparation of a rosewood extract according to the invention comprising the steps:

a) addition of water to the previously ground rosewood having an appropriate particle size,

c) incubation with shaking of the pre-ground rosewood and the enzymatic mixture in order to release oils, proteins and fermentable sugars into the reaction medium, for a period depending on the yields sought,

e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives.

Said rosewood extract according to the invention being obtained after the separation step (e).

Advantageously, this extraction process does not involve organic solvents, such as hexane, which could lead to numerous problems of safety of installations and personnel, human health and preservation of the environment. This technology thus reduces emissions of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). It is thus a clean process allowing the extraction in the form of oil and / or aqueous extract of proteins, sugars and other co-products of high quality and directly usable in cosmetics.

The grinding step requires adjusting the duration and the speed depending on the instrument used and the dry or wet nature of the material to be ground.

The step of adding water requires adjusting the speed, the duration, the water / solid ratio depending in particular on the instrument to be used. The enzymatic hydrolysis step requires determining the enzymes to be used and adjusting various parameters such as the enzyme / substrate ratio, the hydrolysis time, the stirring speed, the pH and the temperature.

The endogenous or exogenous enzyme inactivation step requires adjusting parameters such as inactivation temperature, temperature, duration, as well as pH.

The centrifugation step requires adjusting parameters such as speed, temperature, duration and pH.

According to a particular embodiment, in step a), the appropriate particle size of the plant material is advantageously obtained by grinding said plant material. The grinding must be as fine as possible to promote the action of enzymes. Ideally, all of the particles should have a size close to 50 µm, preferably close to 10 µm.

Preferably, the mass of water added to the plant material is equal to 1 to 2 times the mass of said plant material and does not exceed this amount.

In particular in step b), the ratio between the activity of pectinase and the activity of cellulase being at least 0.14, preferably between 0.3 and 2.5, and more preferably between 0.35 and 0.45, and the ratio between the activity of pectinase and the activity of hemicellulase being at least 7.10 ³ ; preferably between 1.10 ² and 0.5, and more preferably between 1.10 ² and 2.10 ² .

More particularly, the enzyme mixture used contains at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase, at least one pectinase, and advantageously also at least one protease. According to a particular mode, the cellulase (s), hemicellulase (s) and pectinase (s) represent 75% of the enzymatic mixture and the protease (s) represent 25% of said enzymatic mixture. According to a particular embodiment, the cellulases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzymatic mixture, the hemicellulases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzyme mixture and the pectinases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzyme mixture. And advantageously the proteases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzymatic mixture.

In a preferred embodiment, the enzyme mixture used contains 25% cellulases, 25% hemicellulases, 25% pectinases and 25% proteases. Preferably, the quantity used of the enzymatic mixture as defined above is between 0.25% and 10%, preferably between 1% and 6%, by volume of the water / plant material mixture.

Advantageously, the incubation according to step c) is carried out for 2 to 20 hours, preferably between 4 and 12 hours, at a temperature between 25 ° C and 75 ° C, preferably between 40 ° C and 60 ° C , and preferably around 50 ° C.

The hydrolysis reaction is then stopped by deactivation of the enzymes by heating preferably between 80 ° C and 105 ° C for for example 5 to 20 minutes

Then the reaction medium is separated, according to step d), using all the suitable known separation techniques, such as centrifugation or decantation.

According to a particular mode, the mixture is prefiltered on a 0.8mm then 0.5mm sieve in order to remove the most important part of the solid phase, then a sterilizing filtration is advantageously carried out on clarifying plates with a pore size of 0.2 μm, at a pressure of 2 Bars. The aqueous phase obtained after sterilizing filtration is stabilized with the preservatives (citric acid, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate).

Thus according to a preferred embodiment, said aqueous extract of rosewood, preferably of summer rosewood, is obtained by an extraction process comprising the steps: a) addition of water to the previously ground rosewood having an appropriate particle size,

b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously at least one protease,

c) incubation with shaking of the pre-ground rosewood and the enzymatic mixture in order to release oils, if present, proteins and fermentable sugars into the reaction medium, for a period depending on the yields sought,

e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives. The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is characterized in particular by the presence of amino acids (aspartic acid, tyrosine, arginine) and total sugars (glucose, fructose).

The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is also characterized by the fact that it is not a fermented extract.

According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood obtained according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 1 to 6% and preferably from 3 to 5 % and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. This rosewood extract according to the invention is called INCI name water (and) rose extract (and) citric acid (and) potassium sorbate (and) sodium benzoate.

Composition and dosage

By "topical application" is meant a composition intended for application to keratin materials. In fact, an oral composition is not intended for topical application to the skin.

The aqueous extract of rosewood is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect.

In particular, it is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80%, in particular from 0.5% to 60% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a first embodiment, it is present in a content ranging from 50% to 80%, in particular from 60% to 75% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular embodiment, it is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Illustrative examples are given below. The cosmetic composition of the invention may be in any dosage form suitable for topical application to keratin materials and in particular the skin, for example a serum, an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a microemulsion, a lotion, suspension, aqueous gel, stick, powder. The composition according to the invention can be a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.

By “keratinous material” is meant the skin and / or its integuments, and the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body and the lips.

The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin of the face and / or the body or on the lips and is for example in the form of a lotion, a care cream, a serum, a fluid for the face, a care gel for the face and / or the body, a lip care composition, a lip balm, a lipstick, or a gloss.

According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a care and / or make-up cream for the face.

According to another particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel for the eye area.

According to another particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for the lips.

The aqueous phase generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the invention, a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). We can cite in particular:

C1-C5 lower mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof;

C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;

C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof,

and their mixtures. It can also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of acrylic acid polymers such as those of INCI Carbomer name or of Carbopol® commercial reference, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers, associative thickeners of acrylic type or polyurethane, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, natural or modified gums such as xanthan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan gums, chitosans, mannans, pullulans, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, pectins, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.

By natural or modified gum is meant an optionally modified polysaccharide which hydrates in an aqueous medium to form a viscous solution or a dispersion. Natural gums include algae extracts, plant exudates and gums extracted from vegetable seeds or roots and those obtained by microbiological fermentation. Modified or semi-synthetic gums include derivatives of cellulose and starch and, in general, derivatives of all natural gums.

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a gelled aqueous phase, in particular by the presence of at least one acrylic polymer, in particular a polymer of acrylic acid or copolymer of acrylic and methacrylic acid.

The content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 0.7 to 4%, preferably from 0.9 to 3% and preferably still from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Oily or oily phase

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise an oily phase (solid fatty substances) or an oily phase. The term “oily phase” is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with one another. By "oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure. An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, and mixtures thereof.

These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

By `` hydrocarbon oil '' is meant according to the invention an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The term “silicone oil” is understood to mean, according to the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

By "fluorinated oil" is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers of C10-C40, synthetic esters of C10-C40, fatty alcohols of C12-C26, acids higher C12-C22 fats, and mixtures thereof.

As non-volatile silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The oils may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty or oily phase can also include lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers, surfactants, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition is in the form of a solution, an emulsion, a serum or a gel.

According to one particular mode, the cosmetic composition of the invention does not include any rose extract other than rose extracts of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety.

Additional ingredients

The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents. age, lifting agents, tensing agents, agents plumping agents, soothing agents, antipollution agents, lightening or depigmenting agents, fillers, nacres and their mixtures.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, emollient agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tensing agents, plumping agents, soothing agents, antipollution agents, lightening or depigmenting agents, fillers, nacres and their mixtures.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition also comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from an antioxidant agent, a lifting agent, a tightening agent, a plumping agent, a soothing agent, an anti-pollution agent and / or a depigmenting agent. . It can also include fillers and / or nacres, in particular white nacres, intended to mask color imperfections (dark circles) and illuminate the eyes.

Cosmetic and other uses The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention, in particular of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®, as agent intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, deterioration of the barrier function, appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, alteration of the barrier function, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of the face and / or of the body and / or lips, of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in the invention. The term “skin and / or lips” according to the invention means in particular healthy skin and / or lips, that is to say that does not present any disorders or disorders which would arise from a pathological condition (subjects' not healthy ', suffering from a pathology).

According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to dry, fragile, sensitive, stressed skin, and in particular tired skin which has lost its firmness, its flexibility and its elasticity.

According to another particular mode, the composition is applied to dry, fragile, sensitive and / or stressed lips. According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to dry and / or fragile lips. In another mode, on stressed lips. According to another mode, on sensitive lips.

Another subject of the invention is an aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention or a composition comprising according to the invention for use for soothing the skin, and / or preventing and / or treating skin disorders linked to a Chronic micro-inflammation of the skin, in particular preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging induced by chronic micro-inflammation of the skin.

According to this aspect of the invention, the aqueous extract of rosewood is used on skin presenting disorders linked to chronic micro-inflammation, in particular inflammation due to endogenous and / or exogenous stresses having inflammatory effects.

The present invention also relates to an aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention or a composition comprising it for use for reducing solar lentigo.

According to this aspect of the invention, the aqueous extract of rosewood is used on skins having alterations linked to the sun.

The composition can be applied to the skin of the face and / or of the body or to the lips. According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to the face and / or the body.

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a rosewood extract according to the invention, or a composition containing it to soothe the skin, and / or prevent and / or treat skin disorders linked to micro-inflammation. chronic skin.

The present invention also relates to a rosewood extract according to the invention, or a composition containing it to reduce solar lentigo.

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for treating keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or the lips, to soothe the skin, and / or prevent and / or treat skin disorders linked to a micro- chronic inflammation of the skin, comprising the administration to a person who needs it, of an extract of rosewood according to the invention, or a composition containing it.

The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous materials, preferably the skin and / or the lips, for reducing solar lentigo, comprising the administration to a person in need thereof of a wood extract. rose according to the invention, or a composition containing it.

The invention will now be illustrated in the following nonlimiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the% are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES:

Example 1: Extraction from Rosewood and Analysis of these Extracts Preparation of the Plant

We use rosewood and rose flowers of the Evanrat variety, in particular the pink variety Jardin de Granville®.

The raw materials, here rosewood, possibly supplemented with rose flowers, were reduced to powder in three stages.

Stage 1: passage through a garden shredder in order to obtain two-centimeter sections

Step 2: passage through an industrial mill

Dissolution

The enzymatic extraction was carried out in a reactor with a maximum capacity of 70 l. The reactor is agitated by a propeller and is thermostatically controlled by a double jacket.

16Kg of rosewood powder with 0.1% rose flowers are dispersed and suspended in 47.5Kg of water.

In order to deactivate endogenous enzymes, the mixture was raised to a temperature of 85 ° C for 1 min and then stabilized at 50 ° C.

Lysis of plant walls

0.8 Kg of a HEL1 PR1 Enzymatic cocktail comprising a mixture of cellulases, hemicellulases and pectinases at 75% and proteases at 25%, were added to the corresponding reaction mixture (5% w / w). The reaction is continued for 4 hours, the temperature is maintained at 50 ° C.

Inactivation of enzymes

The mixture was brought to 85 ° C for 1 min in order to inactivate the enzymes, then brought back to 35 ° C.

Pre filtration

The mixture is prefiltered on a 0.8mm then 0.5mm sieve in order to remove the most important part of the solid phase, then on a sheet.

Sterilizing filtration Filtration was carried out on clarifying plates (PALL corporation) with a pore size of 0.2 μm, at a pressure of 2 bars.

Formulation

The aqueous phase obtained after sterilizing filtration is stabilized with the following preservatives:

- Citric acid

- Potassium sorbate and

- Sodium benzoate

After filtration, an aqueous extract of rosewood is obtained at 3.7% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract. This extract is used in the following examples aiming to highlight its effects on the skin; the following examples use cultures of keratinocytes and / or melanocytes.

Assays carried out on this aqueous extract not stabilized by preservatives give the following results:

Total polyphenols (g / L): 2.5

Reducing sugars (g / L): 16.2

Protein nitrogen (g / L): 0.64

Total protein (g / L): <6

Glucose (g / 100g): 1.4 (± 0.8)

Fructose (g / 100g): 0.3 (± 0.3) EXAMPLE 2 Protocol for Studying the Expression of Genes of Interest in Keratinocyte Culture

Normal human keratinocytes (KH N) are cultured and then treated with the aqueous extract of rosewood as prepared in Example 1.

After treatment of KH N, a study by Taqman Low Density Array (TLDA) on the genes studied is carried out using the cDNAs obtained after reverse transcription of the total RNAs extracted.

The aqueous extract of rosewood is tested at 0.1% or 0.25% by weight of raw material (excipient water).

Culture of KHN

Normal human keratinocytes come from a skin sample from plastic surgery. The cells are grown in a complete Epilife medium with a seeding density of 50,000 cells per well, in 12-well plates. At sub confluence, the cells are treated for 24 hours with the doses of rose extracts described above.

TLDA technology (TagMan Low Density Array)

Obtaining total RNA

The cell culture medium is eliminated, and 250 μL of RLT lysis buffer (supplied in the Nucleospin RNA trace kit, Macherey-Nagel) are added. The cells are scraped using a Cell Scraper and the cell lysate is collected in a 1.2 ml deepwell (supplied_in the Nucleospin RNA kit). Total RNAs are extracted according to defined protocols.

The total RNA solutions obtained are assayed, and their quality verified, using a microplate reader, spectrostarNANO (BMG Labtech) coupled to MicrolabSTAR. This device is connected to the computer controlling the Robotics platform and has specific software for analyzing the results (MARS software). The technique requires a 384-well micro plate (LoBase), a positive control (RNA 250, AM7155, Thermofisher) to validate the pipetting performed by the robot as well as the values generated by the spectrostarNANO reader.

Synthesis of complementary DNAs

The reverse transcription kit (RT) used is the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher). It was used according to the protocol provided. 500 ng of total RNA are diluted in water for a final volume of 25 pL. They are then incubated for 10 minutes at 25 ° C and then 2 hours at 37 ° C in the presence of 25 μL of reaction mixture of High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X previously prepared as indicated below. The different incubations are carried out within TRobot (Biométra).

Table 1: High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X reaction mixture for 1 reaction

PCR-TagMan Low Density Array 15 pl_ of each RT is mixed with 60 mI of water then 75 mI_ of TaqMan Gene

Expression master mix (ThermoFisher), containing DNA polymerase, are added. After homogenization, 100 ml are deposited on the microfluidic cards containing the probes corresponding to the genes tested (table 2 below), the latter are centrifuged and then sealed. The CD Rom corresponding to the profile of the genes deposited on the plates is loaded into the SDS 2.3 software, specifying the location of each gene on the map. The control gene (or “endogeneous” gene) to be used for the normalization of the results is to be indicated before the launch of the PCR. The latter is carried out according to the protocol provided by Applied Biosystems in the ABI Prism 7900HT Sequence detection System device. The qPCR steps are 2 min at 50 ° C, 10 min at 94.5 ° C then 30 s at 97 ° C and 1 min at 59.7 ° C for 40 cycles. Depending on the desired effects, the skilled person determines which are the relevant genes to be included in the study; it is his general knowledge to determine and optimize for each gene the nucleotide sequences of the PCR primers to be used.

Statistical analyzes Real-time quantitative PCR can be used if its efficiency is between 90% and 110%. For each sample, the number of cycles at which the signal appears is determined by the SDS 2.3 software. For the same test, the expression levels of the transcripts of interest obtained are normalized with respect to the value obtained for the household gene Beta-2-microglobulin. This gene, the expression of which is constitutive and invariant, makes it possible to overcome any variations induced during the experiment (assay of total RNAs, pipetting, reverse transcription step, PCR in the apparatus).

In the RT-PCR TLDA method, quantification is performed using the method comparative of AACt. The relative quantification values (RQ) obtained correspond to the amplitude level (x times more or less than the control) of the expression compared to our control here the non-irradiated. The RQ is obtained by the following calculation where the control is equal to 1:

ACt treated = Ct target gene treated - Ct household gene treated

Untreated ACt Untreated target gene Ct - Untreated household gene Ct

In order to assess statistically significant variations in transcriptional activity, we will use Student's t-test. Each condition is performed in triplicate (3 untreated and 3 treated under the same conditions). Fischer's F-test is first applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the value is greater than a = 0.05 then the variance for Student's t-test is 2, when the Fischer's F-test is less than a = 0.05 then the variance will be equal to 3. Transcriptional variations retained will be those which have a Student's t test less than a = 0.05. The results are presented on average over n = 3. Student's t-test was used to compare the effect between treated and untreated cells.

The results are considered significant for p <0.05 (*) or p <0.01 (**).

The results are presented in the following table 3:

Example 3 Effect of the Aqueous Rosewood Extract on Oxidative Stress

We have studied the effect of the rosewood extract according to the invention on the stimulation of the gene expression of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, which participate in neutralizing free radicals and thus in protecting the skin cells. especially against aging. This study was carried out on keratinocyte culture by following the protocol detailed in Example 2.

Table 2: reference of the genes studied

Table 3: Modulation of the expression of the genes of interest after treatment with the rosewood extract according to the invention

These results show that the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention stimulates genes involved in the response to oxidative stress, and thus makes it possible to limit the accumulation of free radicals. The aqueous extract of rosewood is therefore advantageous for a use intended to prevent and / or reduce skin reactions in particular caused by the environment, pollution, tobacco and thus to fight against cellular aging of the skin.

Example 4 Effect of the aqueous extract of rosewood on the barrier function

We have studied the effect of the rosewood extract according to the invention on the expression of genes involved in cell cohesion, epidermal differentiation, or homeostasis of the epidermis and thus participating in the regulation of skin barrier function. This study was carried out on keratinocyte culture by following the protocol detailed in Example 2.

Table 4: reference of the genes studied

Table 5: Modulation of the expression of the genes of interest after treatment with the rosewood extract according to the invention

These results show that the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention stimulates numerous mediators of epidermal differentiation and of cellular cohesion. The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is therefore advantageous for promoting and / or stimulating the skin barrier function and in particular for promoting the firmness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin. Example 5 Effect of the aqueous extract of rosewood on the transfer of melanin

The objective of this study is to study the supposed depigmenting effect of the rosewood extract according to the invention. This evaluation is carried out by measuring the rate of melanin transfer in a keratinocyte / melanocyte co-culture model. KHN / MHN co-culture model

KHNs are seeded at the rate of 50,000 cells / well in 1 ml of a mixture of Epilife medium and M254 (Invitrogen), 25% and 75% respectively, in 24-well culture supports.

After 24 hours of culture, the MHNs are added at the rate of 4000 cells / well in 400 μL / well in the same renewed medium.

Cell processing

After 24 hours of culture at 37 ° C., the coculture is treated or not with active ingredients (the rosewood extract according to the invention or a positive control). An untreated control and a positive control, niacinamide (Sigma) at a concentration of 10 mMoI / L are included in the study.

The cells are treated for 48 hours without renewal with the rosewood extract according to the invention at 0.1% or with niacinamide for the positive control condition.

Immunomarguage After 48 hours of treatment, the culture medium is eliminated. The cells are rinsed with PBS (Invitrogen), then fixed with formalin (Sigma) for 10 minutes.

After rinsing with PBS, the culture wells are filled with a 0.1% PBS / Triton solution (Sigma) for 10 minutes in order to permeabilize the membranes of the fixed cells, then rinsed twice with PBS. The cells are covered with a 1% PBS / BSA solution (Sigma). After 30 minutes at room temperature, the PBS / BSA solution is removed. The cells are then covered with a solution of primary anti-melanoma marker HMB45 antibody (Dako,, Mouse) diluted 1 / 150th in the 1% PBS-BSA solution, for 2 hours at room temperature. The cells are then rinsed 3 times in a PBS solution. The cells are then covered with a solution of secondary anti-mouse antibodies (Alexa fluor 568, goat anti-mouse, Invitrogen) diluted 1 / 300th in a solution of PBS-BSA 1%. Cell nuclei are stained with DAPI diluted 1 / 100th (Invitrogen) as well as labeling of actin with phalloidin Alexa Fluor 488 diluted 1 / 100th in the secondary antibody solution. The cells are incubated for 60 minutes at room temperature, protected from light. The culture wells are rinsed 3 times in PBS and then a few drops of mounting medium (DAKO) are deposited on the cells.

Plates are stored at 4 ° C and in the dark until the images are acquired. HCS image acquisition

Plates are scanned with Thermo Cellomics ArrayScan XTi according to supplier's recommendations.

Image Analysis Images are analyzed using Cell Profiler analysis software. A program is created to quantify the number of melanosomes transferred per keratinocyte surface. The results are transferred directly to a Microsoft Excel file.

Statistical analysis

Statistical analysis of the results is done using Microsoft Excel software. This analysis consists of calculating the mean, standard deviation and confidence interval (a = 0.05) of the number of melanosomes transferred per keratinocyte surface. In order to assess statistically significant variations, Student's T-test is used. Fischer's F-test is first applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the value is greater than a = 0.05 then the variance for Student's t-test is 2, when the Fischer's F-test is less than a = 0.05 then the variance will be equal to 3. The variations retained will be those who have a Student's t test less than a = 0.05.

Results

The positive control as well as the different doses of ingredients tested are compared to the untreated control. A decrease in melanosome transfer of -30% is observed for the positive control (niacinamide) compared to the untreated control. Regarding the extract of rosewood at a dose of 0.1%, there is a significant decrease of -30% in the number of melanosomes transferred by keratinocyte compared to the untreated control, ie a level equivalent to the positive niacinamide control.

This study therefore highlights the depigmenting effect of rosewood extract. The use of this extract is therefore particularly advantageous for preventing and / or treating the inhomogeneous appearance of the complexion, the appearance of skin pigment spots, or age spots, in particular on the back of the hands, on the face, the cleavage , or the skull of men.

Example 6 Effect of the Aqueous Rosewood Extract on Innate Immunity

We have studied the effect of the rosewood extract according to the invention on the expression of genes coding for antibacterial peptides and therefore involved in innate immunity. This study was carried out on keratinocyte culture by following the protocol detailed in Example 2.

Table 6: reference of the genes studied

Table 7: Modulation of the expression of the genes of interest after treatment with the rosewood extract according to the invention

In this study, a strong stimulation of the expression of genes coding for antibacterial peptides is observed, which highlights the beneficial effect of wood extract. rose according to the invention on its ability to promote the innate immunity of the skin.

Example 7 Effect of the aqueous extract of rosewood on micro-inflammation

We have studied the effect of the rosewood extract according to the invention on the expression of cytokines or of receptors for cytokines, which are genes involved in micro-inflammation processes in the skin capable of promoting skin aging or inflammaging phenomena. This study was carried out on keratinocyte culture by following the protocol detailed in Example 2.

Table 8: reference of the genes studied

rosewood according to the invention

These results show that the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention inhibits numerous mediators of inflammation, in particular of cytokines, of cytokine receptors. The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is therefore advantageous for a use intended to prevent and / or reduce the effects of chronic micro-inflammation of the skin and thus fight against aging of the skin or inflammaging. Conclusion

All of the effects observed on oxidative stress, barrier function, pigmentation, immunity or even micro-inflammation show that the rosewood extract according to the invention is of interest for preventing and / or treating the main factors responsible for skin aging and thus allow the improvement of the appearance of aged skin.

Example 8: Formulations

8.1 Composition in the form of an emulsion

Aqueous phase :

Demineralized water qs 100.0%

Glycols 20.0%

Preservatives 0.6% 0.04% chelating

Carbomer (Carbopol® 981) 0.3%

Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV60) 0.2%

Sodium Hydroxide 0.15%

Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.0%

Fat phase:

Vegetable oil, esters, silicones 16%

0.2% antioxidant

0.4% perfume concentrate

Steareth-2 0.8%

Steareth-21 1.5%

* as described in example 1

The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:

the gelling agents are dispersed in the aqueous phase (excluding aqueous extract of rosewood and sodium hydroxide) which is brought to 70 ° C;

the fatty phase (excluding perfume concentrate, antioxidant) is heated to 70 ° C; the emulsion is produced by introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with vigorous stirring;

the gelling agents are neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide and the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring with the introduction of the perfume concentrate, the antioxidant and the aqueous extract of rosewood at low temperature.

Applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face, this composition imparts tone, elasticity and firmness, the features are enhanced, the face is reshaped.

8.2 Composition in the form of a solid dispersion of fatty substances, of spherical or spheroid form Aqueous phase

Demineralized water qs100%

Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.00%

Phenoxyethanol 0.42%

Xanthan gum 0.36%

Fat phase

C10-18 triglycerides 38.84%

Anti Oxidant 0.1% * as described in example 1

The composition is prepared according to the following procedure: the wax is heated (C10-18 triglycerides = Gatefossé lipocire) above its melting point (a few degrees) with the antioxidant;

- the molten fatty phase is poured with stirring into water previously heated to the same temperature as the fatty phase;

the whole is kept under agitation by a rotary system for a few minutes until the desired droplet size is obtained;

the dispersion obtained is rapidly cooled by adding pre-cooled glycol water (approximately -4 ° C) to solidify the lipid spheroids;

agitation is stopped when the spheroids are solidified and are then recovered from the surface or filtered;

the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the water, xanthan gum, the preservative, and the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention;

- the spheroids are recovered on the surface and incorporated into the xanthan gel containing the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention.

Applied to the skin, this composition makes it possible to reduce the visible signs of aging, in particular by imparting tone and firmness to the skin; the oval of the face is as redrawn.

8.3: Composition in the form of an aqueous gel for the face

Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 80.00%

Preservatives 0.50%

Sugar 0.20% Carbomer 0.70%

Purified water Qsp

100%

EDTA tetrasodium powder 0.20%

Sodium hydroxide 0.17% * as described in Example 1

The rosewood extract according to the invention and the preservatives are mixed and homogenized at room temperature with stirring. The sugars are added with stirring, then the carbomer, then the water and the EDTA with stirring. The aqueous gel is then neutralized with the addition of sodium hydroxide with stirring until a homogeneous gel is obtained.

Applied to the skin of the face, this aqueous gel corrects cutaneous dryness, and dull or inhomogeneous complexion, and contributes to the youth of the skin.

8.4: Composition in the form of a micronutrient serum gel for the contour of the wills

Purified water Qsp 100.00%

Glycols 13.0%

Preservatives 0.60%

Carbomer 0.80%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.70%

Lecithin and sodium acrylates copolymer (Lecigel PCR negative) 1, 20%

Isostearate isostearyle 9.0%

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649 MB) 1.0%

Silica 2.0%

Pearls 1.0%

Centella asiatica extract 0.5%

0.1% horse chestnut extract

Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.0%

Tocopheryl acetate 0.10%

0.20% rose scent

* as described in example 1

The ingredients of the aqueous phase (water, glycols and carbomer) are mixed at 80 ° C with stirring. The preservatives are then added, then the gelling agents at 80 ° C. with stirring, then the temperature is lowered to 75 ° C. Then the surfactants are emulsified in the aqueous phase with stirring. The fillers and nacres, previously pasted and homogenized, are added at 40 ° C. The cryo extract, the aqueous rosewood extract according to the invention, is then added at 40 ° C., with stirring up to 30 ° C.

After application to the eye area, this serum gel helps to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, the area of the eyes is firmed, the appearance of dark circles and puffiness is reduced. The youthfulness of the gaze is reconstituted over the applications. 8.5 Lip balm

Silica 10%

Nylon powder 7%

Polyethylene wax 17%

Glycerin 14%

Aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention * 3.0%

Isopropyl myristate qs100%

This composition is prepared by mixing the ingredients according to conventional methods of formulation of balms. This lip balm, after application on dry and / or fragile lips, allows to hydrate and smooth them.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or of the body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and in particular at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, emollient agents, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tensing agents, plumping agents, soothing agents, antipollution agents, lightening or depigmenting agents, fillers, nacres and their mixtures.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rosewood is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 80%, in particular from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0 , 5 to 10% and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from an antioxidant agent, a lifting agent, a tensing agent, a plumping agent, a soothing agent, a anti-pollution agent and / or depigmenting agent.

4. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, alteration of the barrier function, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, skin dryness, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion, characterized in that it comprises application to healthy skin, in particular to the skin of the face and / or of the body , of a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3.

5. Aqueous extract of rosewood, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, characterized in that the roses are of the Evanrat variety, in particular of the variety rose Jardin de Granville®.

6. Extract according to claim 5, characterized in that it is obtained by an enzymatic extraction process comprising the steps:

a) addition of water to the previously ground rosewood having an appropriate particle size, b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously also at least one protease,

d) separation of the reaction medium to obtain free oil, an aqueous phase containing proteins and fermentable sugars, and a solid phase,

e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives.

7. Method for preparing an extract of rosewood, preferably summer rosewood, as defined in claim 5 or claim 6comprising the steps: a) adding water to the previously ground rosewood having an appropriate particle size,

c) incubation with shaking with previously crushed rosewood and the enzyme mixture to release oils, proteins and fermentable sugars into the reaction medium, for a period depending on the yields sought,

e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives.

8. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in claim 5 or claim 6, as an agent intended to prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, deterioration of the barrier function, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, dry skin, and / or a dull and inhomogeneous complexion .

9. Aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in claim 5 or claim 6 or composition comprising as defined in any one claims 1 to 3 for use for soothing the skin, and / or preventing and / or treating skin disorders linked to chronic micro-inflammation of the skin.

10. An aqueous extract of rosewood as defined in claim 5 or claim 6 or composition comprising as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3 for use in reducing solar lentigo.