EP3768110A1 - Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift - Google Patents

Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift

Info

Publication number
EP3768110A1
EP3768110A1 EP19712984.4A EP19712984A EP3768110A1 EP 3768110 A1 EP3768110 A1 EP 3768110A1 EP 19712984 A EP19712984 A EP 19712984A EP 3768110 A1 EP3768110 A1 EP 3768110A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
claws
axis
piece
jewelery
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP19712984.4A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3768110B1 (de
Inventor
Philippe Vitau
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Hamard Vitau
Original Assignee
Hamard Vitau
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Hamard Vitau filed Critical Hamard Vitau
Publication of EP3768110A1 publication Critical patent/EP3768110A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3768110B1 publication Critical patent/EP3768110B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001Faceting gems
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting

Definitions

  • Piece of jewelry process for trimming a stone, especially a diamond, and associated mount picot.
  • the present invention relates to a piece of jewelry including stones, including diamonds, round and in particular circular.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, for its integration into the piece of jewelry.
  • the present invention further relates to a mounting pin for supporting a stone of the piece of jewelry.
  • the pieces of jewelry covered by the invention may be rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces or necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, buttons, etc., or objects other than intended for the adornment of the body, in other words any object adorned with precious or semi-precious stones, in particular diamonds.
  • round shape in particular circular, must be understood in the broad sense, this form can be carried out approximately by multiple flat polygons. Said round shape is understood as opposed to a “square", “rectangular” shape or any other geometry with sides whose presence is dominant for the overall visual effect.
  • the piece of jewelery with:
  • At least one stone in particular a diamond, having a visible face of generally round shape and a cylinder head in the general shape of a cone having an axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral laminate, and
  • a mount essentially located on the side of the breech and having claws to support the stone
  • the leaflet has a certain height measured parallel to the axis
  • the stone has at least three facets overlapping the leaflet and the breech locally forming a bevel between the cylinder head and the leaflet;
  • Each facet is hollowed out with a groove extending transversely with respect to the axis and receiving a spout of one of said claws.
  • the yoke has a relatively open aperture angle dictated by the search for optimal refraction of light. Thanks to the facet whose slope is steeper, the attack of a machining tool is facilitated. In addition, a groove of less depth is sufficient to provide the claw of the mount a socket for holding the stone firmly. The at least three claws provided positively position the stone independently of neighboring stones.
  • the laminate is of cylindrical general shape.
  • a cylindrical leaflet is favorable to the size of the bevel facet.
  • each facet the associated groove is open at both ends through a respective lateral edge of the facet.
  • This configuration of the facet allows a perfect cleaning of the groove after machining. This is important for the purity of the effects bright in the piece of jewelry.
  • the groove may have a substantially constant profile over its entire length, from one open end to the other.
  • the bottom of the groove extends in a rectilinear longitudinal direction, in particular parallel to the plane of the facet. This embodiment is simple and effective to allow a good grip of the claw in the groove.
  • the groove is formed in a plane perpendicular to the axis. It may for example be a sawing practiced in said plane.
  • the bottom of the groove is typically a surface parallel to the axis. This is achieved for example with sawing in a plane perpendicular to the axis as mentioned above.
  • the stone has four facets and four grooves.
  • the angle between the axis and a median of facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40 °. This is about 10 ° less than the half-angle at the top of the cylinder head of a conventional round diamond.
  • the facets leave the laminate intact around the periphery of the upper face. In this way, the existence of the facets does not affect the appearance of the stone after it has been assembled in the piece of jewelery.
  • the facets locally reduce the height of the laminate to a non-zero value. This is favorable for a stable contact point between adjacent stones.
  • the facets are grouped in pairs of adjacent facets arranged in a V with respect to each other, the pairs being spaced apart from each other, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.
  • the mount comprises for each pair of facets two aforementioned claws having a common foot, separated from the foot of the at least one other pair of claws.
  • the mount comprises for each facet a claw connected to the base independently of the other claws.
  • the frame comprises a plate and, for each stone mentioned above, a pin carrying the claws associated with this stone.
  • the pin comprises latching means in a respective recess of the plate.
  • the claws associated with the same stone are elastically flexible in the direction of the mutual spacing to receive the rock by snapping the stone between the associated claws. This facilitates assembly operations of the piece of jewelry.
  • the stones are mounted with contact or quasi-contact between the sheets of the neighboring stones. This is the best way to hide the frame on the piece of jewelery assembled.
  • the stones being round, they are not in contact with each other all around their periphery but only at certain points of contact or quasi-contact.
  • the claws are located below these points of contact or quasi-contact between layers, rather than below areas where the neighboring stones leave a space between them.
  • the method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, for producing a piece of jewelery according to the preceding aspect or any of its improvements or combination of improvements, the stone having a visible face of generally round shape and a cylinder head generally shaped like a cone having a axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral sheet, is characterized in that
  • Each facet is hollowed out with a groove extending transversely with respect to the axis.
  • size facets remains below an upper limit of the leaflet, so as not to affect the appearance of the stone as seen on the piece of jewelry finished.
  • the facets before cutting the facets is subdivided the periphery of the stone so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis around its entire periphery and jointly show or enlarge an axial height of the leaflet. This facilitates the realization of the facets and allows to give them a steeper slope that will facilitate the machining of the groove.
  • the grooves are formed by sawing, in particular in a plane perpendicular to the axis.
  • the sawing is deep enough so that the groove has an undercut retaining face along its opposite edge to the laminate.
  • the jewelery frame peg according to the first aspect or any one of its improvements or combinations of improvements is characterized in that it comprises:
  • the pin comprises an even number of claws, grouped in pairs of adjacent claws, the pairs being evenly distributed around the axis.
  • the two claws of the same pair are connected to the base by a common foot, separate from the foot of the at least one other pair.
  • Figure 1 is a partial elevational view of a piece of jewelery according to the invention, with the platen cut;
  • Figure 2 is a partial top view of the jewelery piece of Figure 1, the right portion of the Figure showing only the platen;
  • Figure 3 is a perspective view of a stone of the jewelery piece of Figures 1 and 2;
  • Figure 4 is an elevational view of the stone of Figure 3;
  • Figure 5 is another elevational view of the stone of Figure 3;
  • Figure 6 is a bottom view of the stone of Figures 3 to 5;
  • Figure 7 is a perspective view of a pin of the bezel of the jewelery of Figures 1 and 2;
  • Figure 8 is a top view of the pin of Figure 7;
  • Figure 9 is a sectional view along IX - IX of Figure 8.
  • Figure 10 is a perspective view of the stone of Figures 3 to 6 mounted on the pin of Figures 7 to 9;
  • Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 10 but with a smaller stone and a second embodiment of the pin;
  • Fig. 12 is an elevational view showing the stone and the pin in a third embodiment of the pin
  • Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the pin of Fig. 12;
  • Fig. 14 is a perspective view of another embodiment of the pin.
  • the present description extends to the embodiments described but also to any particularity or combination of features, in the terms used or in more general terms, even if these particularities or combinations of particularities come from a part of a sentence, a part of of paragraph, or of several parts of a sentence or paragraph, where the particularity or combination of features differs from the state of the art and produces an advantage over the state of the art.
  • the piece of jewelery comprises several stones 1, in particular diamonds, which have a plan view (FIG. 2) of a round shape, in particular a circular shape.
  • Each stone 1 has a visible face 2 and a yoke 3 separated from the visible face by a laminate 4 which forms the periphery of the stone and defines its diameter which is typically a few mm, for example here 4.7mm.
  • the laminate is here cylindrical.
  • the yoke 3 is generally conical along an axis 6 which constitutes the axis of the stone and in particular the axis of the laminate 4 and the axis of the visible face 2.
  • the conical general shape is here defined by multiple polygons (triangles) plans, in a classic way in jewelry.
  • the stones 1 are adjacent to each other and in particular are in contact or quasi-mutual contact by their laminates 4, in contact or quasi-contact bridges 7.
  • the piece of jewelery further comprises a frame 8 essentially located on the side of the cylinder head 3 of the stones and having claws 9 to support the stones.
  • the claws 9 belong to pins 27 each assigned to a respective one of the stones, and which each carry four claws 9.
  • the frame 8 further comprises an underlying plate 26, in which are fixed the pins 27, d a way which will be described in detail later.
  • the leaflet 4 has a certain height measured parallel to the axis, the average value of which is indicated by h (FIG. 4), the precise height being fluctuating along the rounded circumference created by the intersection of the laminate cylinder with the planes of the polygons defining the conical shape and other planar faces present around the perimeter of the visible face 2 of the stone.
  • the stone further comprises, for each claw, a facet 13 which overlaps the laminate 4 and the yoke 3 locally forming a bevel between the yoke 3 and the laminate 4.
  • Each facet 13 encroaches on the laminate 4 and locally reduces the axial height of the leaflet 4 with respect to the value h. However, said axial height is not canceled, the facets 13 leave the laminate intact around the periphery of the upper face 2. The presence of the facets 13 is not directly perceptible when the visible face 2 is observed along the axis 6 .
  • Each facet 13 is hollowed out with a groove 14 extending transversely with respect to the axis 6 and receiving a spout 16 (FIG. 1) of a respective one of said claws 9.
  • each groove 14 has a longitudinal direction 17 (see FIG. Figure 6 for one of the grooves) perpendicular to the axis 6.
  • each facet 13 the associated groove 14 is open at both ends 18 through a respective lateral edge 19 of the facet.
  • the bottom of the groove 14 extends in a rectilinear longitudinal direction, preferably parallel to the plane of the corresponding facet 13.
  • each groove 14 is formed in a plane 21 (FIG. 5) perpendicular to the axis 6. In the example represented, this plane is the same for all the grooves 14 of the stone.
  • the bottom 22 (FIG. 5) of the groove is a surface parallel to the axis 6.
  • this surface of the bottom is then flat.
  • the illustrated embodiment of the stone has four facets 13 and four grooves 14.
  • the angle A (FIG. 5) between the axis 6 and a median 23 (FIGS. 3 and 5) of a facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40 °, ie approximately 10 ° less than the half-angle at the apex B of the cone formed by the cylinder head 3.
  • the facets 13 are grouped in pairs of neighboring facets arranged at V relative to each other.
  • the pairs are spaced apart, preferably evenly distributed around the axis.
  • a pair is designated by the reference 24 in FIG. 6.
  • the grooves 14 of two facets of the same pair 24 communicate with each other by a common end 18.
  • each pin 27 comprises for each facet 13 a claw 9 connected to a base 28 of the pin, by which the pin is fixed to the plate 26.
  • each claw 9 is attached to the base 28 independently of the other claws 9 of the pin.
  • the pin For attachment to the plate 26, the pin comprises in the embodiment shown latching means 29 in a respective recess 31 of the plate 26. This is, in this particular example, two opposite snap hooks that s are engaged below two opposite edges of the recess 31 in the form of a rectangular window.
  • the recess 31 has a shape (here rectangular) which only allows, for the orientation of the pin 27 about its axis, a number (here 2) of orientations at most equal to the order of symmetry of the pin 27 and the stone 1 about the axis 6. This is a means among others possible so that all the pins 27 and all the stones are oriented in the same manner around their respective axis in the piece of jewelry (See Figure 2 where the orientation pimples and stones are visible from the position of the visible dotted claws).
  • the claws 9 associated with the same stone are elastically flexible in the mutual spacing direction to receive the stone 1 by snapping the stone between the claws 9 associated.
  • the claws are located as far as possible below the contact points or quasi-contact 7 between layers 4, as shown in Figure 2. This can be obtained by limiting the number of orientations allowed to the pins 27 relative to the plate 26 as described above.
  • the embodiment of Figure 11 typically relates to stones of smaller size, for example a diameter of 2.5mm.
  • the frame comprises two claws 9 above having a common foot 32, separated from the foot 32 of the at least one other pair of claws 9.
  • the pin 127 has tabs 109 starting from the base 28, to laterally retain the stone 1.
  • the tabs 109 are distinguished from the claws 9 in particular in that they have no spout 16
  • the tabs 109 are separated from the claws 9 by slots 111 which allow the claws 9 to flex independently of the tabs 109.
  • the tabs 109 are connected to the claws only by the base 28 of the pin 127 in this embodiment.
  • the grooves 14 can be machined by sawing, in particular in a plane 21 (FIG. 5) perpendicular to the axis 6.
  • the sawing or other machining is deep enough so that the groove has an undercut retaining face (FIG. 5) along its edge opposite the laminate 4.
  • a mixed line 33 in FIG. 4 before cutting the facets 13 in a stone initially cut in a conventional manner, for example as received from a supplier, it may be advantageous to resize the periphery of the stone according to the mixed line 33 so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis around its entire periphery and jointly make appear or enlarge the axial height of the leaflet.
  • This facilitates the creation of the facets 13 according to the invention and / or makes it possible to further reduce their angle A (FIG. 5).
  • This facilitates the machining of the grooves 14 and reduces the depth to be given to them so that their edge opposite the visible surface forms an undercut giving gripping 9.
  • the narrower grooves are less likely to disturb the light plays in the stone.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)
EP19712984.4A 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift Active EP3768110B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1852419A FR3079116B1 (fr) 2018-03-21 2018-03-21 Piece de joaillerie, procede pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, et picot de monture associe.
PCT/EP2019/057039 WO2019180116A1 (fr) 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Piece de joaillerie, procede pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, et picot de monture associe

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3768110A1 true EP3768110A1 (de) 2021-01-27
EP3768110B1 EP3768110B1 (de) 2022-05-04

Family

ID=63014657

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19712984.4A Active EP3768110B1 (de) 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US11357296B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3768110B1 (de)
CN (1) CN112188848B (de)
FR (1) FR3079116B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2019180116A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH718254A1 (fr) * 2021-01-15 2022-07-15 Geesco Assemblage par sertissage d'une pierre précieuse ou semi-précieuse sur un support de sertissage.

Family Cites Families (28)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1052141A (en) * 1911-12-05 1913-02-04 Straus & Straus Finger-ring.
GB191074A (en) 1921-12-30 1924-01-17 Herbert Josef Prochazka Improvements in means for rendering water-tight the apertures through which pass the operative members of submarines and the like
US2069598A (en) * 1935-10-30 1937-02-02 Cleef & Arpels Soc Van Setting device for a precious stone or the like
GB491074A (en) * 1937-02-22 1938-08-22 Louis Rigollet An improved method of setting precious stones and other jewelry
US2141363A (en) * 1937-02-22 1938-12-27 Rubel Brothers Ltd Jewelry setting
FR2578400B1 (fr) 1985-03-07 1987-07-03 Richards Camille Procede de sertissage de pierres de joaillerie
FR2580541B1 (fr) 1985-04-19 1989-09-01 Aich Rene Taille du diamant permettant un sertissage invisible
FR2609605B1 (fr) 1987-01-20 1990-06-22 Philippe Renaud Monture a sertissage invisible pour pierres a culasse a aretes avec encoche en dessous de feuilletis
IL92063A (en) * 1989-10-20 1993-06-10 Boaz Ramot Invisible gemstone setting
US5072601A (en) * 1990-09-18 1991-12-17 Christopher Slowinski Diamond setting
US5423196A (en) * 1994-04-14 1995-06-13 Pollack; Johan Method of mounting gems flush to one another in an article of jewelry, and articles of jewelry produced by such method
US5520017A (en) * 1995-01-25 1996-05-28 Oren Vivat Jewelry items with invisible gemstone settings and methods of assembly therefore
US5649434A (en) * 1996-01-18 1997-07-22 Ambar Diamonds Inc. Invisible setting for round diamonds
US5713219A (en) * 1996-01-18 1998-02-03 Ambar Diamonds, Inc. Invisible setting for precious stones for jewelry
US5848539A (en) * 1997-03-28 1998-12-15 Gem Information Center, Inc. Invisible precious stone setting and method therefor
US6112552A (en) 1999-01-12 2000-09-05 Michael Anthony Jewelers, Inc. Gemstone setting and method of using
US6003335A (en) * 1999-05-26 1999-12-21 Orion Diamond Inc. Multi-stone center setting for diamonds and gemstones
EP1068815A3 (de) 1999-07-16 2001-05-02 La Vierge Co., Ltd. Zierelement und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung
US6453700B1 (en) * 2000-02-10 2002-09-24 L.I.D. Ltd. Multi-stone setting member for attachment to a ring
IT1315298B1 (it) * 2000-03-21 2003-02-10 Ezio Genero Srl Anello a composizione variabile
FR2836341B1 (fr) * 2002-02-22 2004-06-04 Alain Bels Procede de fixation invisible dans un support d'une pierre utilisee en joaillerie et bijou
FR2839247A1 (fr) * 2002-05-02 2003-11-07 Akanni Joaillerie Bijou comportant un support et au moins une pierre
US6668584B1 (en) * 2002-05-07 2003-12-30 Giuliano Tosti Housing for setting a stone in jewelry
CN2896975Y (zh) 2006-02-13 2007-05-09 广东潮鸿基实业有限公司 一种宝石的钉镶装置
US8096146B1 (en) * 2008-03-13 2012-01-17 Jewelex New York, Ltd. Apparatus to create a jewelry setting for precious stones where the stones appear to float in the setting
US9402450B2 (en) 2012-05-02 2016-08-02 Grand Rainbow International Limited Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same
US20180042344A1 (en) * 2016-08-15 2018-02-15 Idd Limited Gemstone
CN206453367U (zh) 2016-10-24 2017-09-01 新宝珠宝(深圳)有限公司 隐秘式镶嵌的首饰

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3079116B1 (fr) 2020-03-20
US20210022460A1 (en) 2021-01-28
CN112188848A (zh) 2021-01-05
FR3079116A1 (fr) 2019-09-27
WO2019180116A1 (fr) 2019-09-26
US11357296B2 (en) 2022-06-14
EP3768110B1 (de) 2022-05-04
CN112188848B (zh) 2022-10-21

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