EP2896312B1 - Schmuckgegenstand mit Gelenkgliedern, insbesondere Uhrenarmband, und sein Herstellungsprozess - Google Patents

Schmuckgegenstand mit Gelenkgliedern, insbesondere Uhrenarmband, und sein Herstellungsprozess Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2896312B1
EP2896312B1 EP15151576.4A EP15151576A EP2896312B1 EP 2896312 B1 EP2896312 B1 EP 2896312B1 EP 15151576 A EP15151576 A EP 15151576A EP 2896312 B1 EP2896312 B1 EP 2896312B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
mesh
mesh elements
item
links
jewellery
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP15151576.4A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2896312A1 (de
Inventor
François Parola
Claude-Henri Thiébaud
Djénane Arnoud
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cartier International AG
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Cartier International AG
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Publication date
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02—Link constructions
    • A44C5/10—Link constructions not extensible
    • A44C5/107—Link constructions not extensible with links made of more than two elements including connecting elements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00—Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • A44C11/007—Tennis type
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a piece of jewelry with articulated links, including a watch strap, of simplified construction.
  • the present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing said part.
  • Bracelets necklaces or other pieces of jewelery including joints, for example links connected together by pins, are generally of complex design and requires a large number of operations for their assembly which must, most of the time, be carried out manually.
  • these parts do not allow easy crimping stones.
  • the links are pierced with holes allowing the passage of the pins, or the fact of piercing the outer link to drive the pin prohibited disassembly of the link and therefore any implantation of a stone in this area.
  • a piece of jewelery according to the preamble of claim 1 is known from FR 0404032 .
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a piece of jewelry, including a watch band, free from the limitations of known jewelry pieces.
  • a piece of jewelery comprising a plurality of mesh elements arranged to form a mesh extending in a plane of the room; and a plurality of links, each link being configured to be connected to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements, so as to connect said at least two mesh elements in an articulated manner; each link comprising a first portion and a second portion such that, when the link is connected, said at least two mesh elements extend in the plane of the part, between the first portion and the second portion of the link; the mesh elements are connected to each other in the plane of the workpiece by bridges configured to be eliminated by a predetermined deformation of the mesh relative to the plane of the workpiece.
  • the piece of jewelry of the invention is of simple construction and requires only up to three times less mesh element than in the case of known bracelets.
  • the manufacture of the bracelet by is also simplified and allows the automation of the manufacturing process. It is therefore possible to obtain the piece of jewelry by an industrial type manufacturing process.
  • the piece of jewelry is very flexible, light, comfortable to wear and allows great flexibility in its decoration, for example by the variation of the colors of the links and by the fact that the links can be crimped or not.
  • the piece of jewelry is particularly well suited for a watch strap.
  • figure 1 there is shown a piece of jewelry which is made according to the teachings of the invention.
  • the example of figure 1 and the other examples below describe in particular a bracelet, especially for a watch. However, it should be understood that these examples are equally applicable to other types of bracelets as well as jewelery or jewelery items, such as crimped pins or not.
  • the piece of jewelery in particular the bracelet 1, is equipped with a clasp 6 and comprises an arrangement of links 3 articulated, forming a regular pattern in the example of the figure 1 , so as to obtain a flexible strand capable of taking, within certain limits, such desired curvature, for example the curvature of a wrist.
  • the bracelet 1 comprises a plurality of mesh elements 4 arranged to form a mesh 2 extending in the plane 7 of the bracelet when the latter is placed flat.
  • the figure 2 shows such a mesh 2 comprising mesh elements 4 also arranged in a regular pattern.
  • the mesh 2 comprises mesh elements 4 having the shape of a triangular ring 4 'and mesh elements having the shape of a diamond ring 4 ".
  • By" ring is meant a" toroidal "element. Formed of a bar folded and empty in the middle.
  • figure 3 illustrates isolated mesh elements 4, in particular, a triangular mesh element 4 '( Figures 3a and 3c ) and a diamond-shaped mesh element 4 "( figure 3b ).
  • the mesh elements 4 may be made of metal or an alloy (for example an alloy of a precious metal) or in another material having sufficient flexibility to allow bending of the mesh 2 within given limits, for example to allow the bracelet 1 to take the curvature of a wrist.
  • the mesh elements 4 are metallic and have a section smaller than 1 mm 2 , for example a section between 0.3 mm 2 and 0.6 mm 2 .
  • the bracelet 1 also comprises a plurality of links 3, each link 3 being configured to be connected to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4, so as to connect at least the two mesh elements 4 in an articulated manner.
  • the figure 4 illustrates a detail of a portion of the bracelet 1 in which the mesh elements 4 and the links 3 are shown in perspective.
  • each of the links 3 comprises a first portion 31 and a second portion 32 configured such that, when the link 3 is connected to said portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4, the mesh elements 4 extend in the plane 7 of the bracelet, between the first portion 31 and the second portion 32 of the link 3.
  • the links 3 are that is, the first and second portions 31, 32 are illustrated in the form of a pellet or disc.
  • the links 3 may have another shape, for example a polygonal shape, square or other.
  • the mesh elements 4 are connected to each other in the plane 7 of the bracelet by bridges 5 for holding together the mesh elements 4 so that the mesh elements 4 forming the mesh 2 are secured before the links 3 are connected to the mesh elements 4.
  • the bridges 5 are configured to be eliminated by a predetermined deformation of the mesh 2 relative to the plane 7 of the bracelet.
  • the portion of the mesh element 4 comprises a curved portion 41, for example on each of the vertices of the triangular shape 4 'and / or of the diamond shape 4 "( figure 3 ).
  • the triangular and diamond shapes are advantageous for a compact arrangement of links 3, other shapes mesh elements 4 are also possible, for example rectangular, round, oval or other shapes.
  • the mesh elements 4 can also take the form of solid elements.
  • the mesh elements 4 may take the form of a solid triangle or diamond and have a bead at its periphery, that is, having a periphery thicker than the central portion.
  • Such elements of mesh 4 have the advantage of giving a "fuller" appearance to the bracelet.
  • the material forming these mesh elements 4 must be very flexible in order to maintain the flexibility of the bracelet 1.
  • the lower portion 32 of the link 3 is configured to be fixed to the upper portion 31 so as to connect the link 3 to the portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4.
  • the second portion 32 of the link 3 comprises a pin 33 intended to be driven into a first housing 34 of the first portion 31, so as to fix the first portion 31 to the second portion 32 when connecting the link to the mesh elements 4.
  • the first portion 31 may also comprise a second housing 35 intended to receive said portion of the mesh elements 4. The dimensions of the second housing 35 are provided so as to allow play at the portion of the mesh elements 4 so that the links 3 are connected in an articulated manner.
  • the links 3 When the links 3 are connected to the mesh elements 4, the latter extend in the plane 7 of the bracelet, between the first portion 31 and the second portion 32 of the link 3.
  • the dimension of the links 3 can be adjusted so as to guarantee sufficient spacing between each of the links 3 so as not to limit the desired curvature allowed by the articulated connection.
  • the diameter of the links 3 i.e. the diameter of the first and second portions 31, 32
  • the figure 5 shows a view from below ( figure 5a ), in section in the plane 7 of the bracelet ( figure 5b ) and from above ( figure 5c ) of the bracelet 1 comprising the links 3 connected to the mesh elements 4 forming the mesh 2.
  • the first portion 31 of the links 3 is visible on the lower face and the second portion 32 of the links 3 is visible on the upper face of the bracelet 1, the pattern formed by the links 3 being determined by the arrangement of the mesh elements 4.
  • the links 3 may comprise a first portion 31 and a second portion 32 made of a metal or an alloy, for example a noble alloy such as a gold alloy.
  • the first and second portions 31, 32 may also be made in a ceramics or ceramic metal composite, or any other material suitable for a bracelet.
  • the first portion 31 and the second portion 32 are made of the same material as that of the mesh elements 4.
  • the first portion 31 is made of a material different from that of the second portion 32.
  • the material of the first portion 31 and / or second portion 32 may vary from one link 3 to the other in the pattern so as to obtain color effects and / or textures that vary along the bracelet 1.
  • the links 3 comprise a set stone 8.
  • the stone will obviously be crimped on the second portion 32 so as to be visible when the bracelet is worn.
  • the figure 4c illustrates an example of a bracelet 1 in which some links 3 have a set stone 8.
  • the links 3 comprising the stone may be thicker than those not crimped.
  • the figure 6 illustrates an example in which all the links 3 of the bracelet 1 comprise a set stone 8.
  • the arrangement and the geometry of the mesh elements 4 forming the mesh 2 can vary along the bracelet 1.
  • the bracelet 1 comprises a fixed portion 20 in which the mesh 2 formed of the mesh elements 4 has already been described above with reference to the figure 2 .
  • This fixed portion 20 is intended, for example, to form the greater part of the bracelet 1 and can typically be of fixed length to drop constant.
  • the bracelet 1 also comprises a fastening portion 22 in the continuity of the fixed portion 20 and intended to be attached to a watch case at its end 23 opposite to that connected to the fixed portion 20.
  • the mesh elements 4 have a dimension going down to the end 23 so as to form a mesh 2 of decreasing width towards the housing.
  • the figure 8 illustrates the bracelet 1 of the invention attached to a watch case 9 and comprising the fixed portion 20 and the attachment portion 22 attached to the case 9.
  • the bracelet 1 further comprises an adjustable portion 21 intended to allow adjustment of the length of the bracelet 1.
  • each of the links 3 is removably connected, for example by screwing, to the portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4.
  • the figure 9 shows a detail of the elements of mesh 4 and links 3 of the adjustable portion 21, according to an embodiment in which a screw 36 screws the first portion 31 of the link 3 to the second portion 32. It goes without saying that any other way of fixing the first and second portions 31, 32 so as to connect the link 3 removably to the portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4 may also be considered.
  • the first portions 31 may be previously oriented with a vibrating bowl on a setting using a rotary vacuum system.
  • the first portion 31 can be fixed to the second portion 32 by means of a press 10.
  • the method described above is particularly suitable for the manufacture of the fixed portion 20 and the fastening portion 22 of the bracelet 1.
  • the method may include steps such as breaking bridges 5 so as to obtain elements of mesh 4 (for example triangular and / or lozenge) not connected.
  • the mesh elements 4 can then be arranged individually so as to form the mesh 2 corresponding to the adjustable portion 21 to lengthen the bracelet 1 according to a desired length.
  • said method corresponds to manufacture extension link kits 3.
  • the mesh elements 4 may be made by cutting into a metal plate, for example a polished gold alloy plate having a thickness of less than 1 mm, and preferably between 1 mm and 0.6 mm.
  • the cutting can be performed using a laser cutting process.
  • the laser can be focused and guided by low pressure water jet, the jet can have a diameter of about 50 microns to 100 microns in order to perform the cutting with good accuracy while limiting the heat generated during the which may cause damage to the cut material.

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  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Schmuckstück (1), umfassend:
    eine Vielzahl von Gitterelementen (4), derart angeordnet, um ein Gitter (2) zu bilden, welches sich in einer Ebene (7) des Werkstücks erstreckt; und
    eine Vielzahl von Verbindungsgliedern (3), wobei jedes Verbindungsglied (3) ausgebildet ist, um an einem Teil von mindestens zwei benachbarten Gitterelementen (4) verbunden zu werden (4), um die besagten mindestens zwei Gitterelemente (4) auf artikulierte Weise zu verbinden;
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass
    jedes Verbindungsglied (3) einen ersten Abschnitt (31) und einen zweiten Abschnitt (32) aufweist, so dass, wenn die das Verbindungsglied (3) verbunden ist, die besagten mindestens zwei Gitterelemente (4) sich in der Ebene (7) des Werkstücks erstrecken, zwischen dem ersten Abschnitt (31) und dem zweiten Abschnitt (32) des Verbindungsglieds (3);
    und dass
    die Gitterelemente (4) in der Ebene (7) des Werkstücks durch Brücken (5) miteinander verbunden sind, welche so konfiguriert sind, um durch eine vorbestimmte Verformung des Gitters (2) in Bezug auf die Ebene (7) des Werkstücks entfernt zu werden.
  2. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 1,
    worin der zweite Abschnitt (32) so konfiguriert ist, um am ersten Abschnitt (31) befestigt zu werden, wenn das Verbindungsglied (3) mit dem besagten Teil von mindestens zwei Gitterelementen (4) verbunden ist.
  3. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 2,
    worin der zweite Abschnitt (32) so konfiguriert ist, um durch Einpressen am ersten Abschnitt (31) befestigt zu werden.
  4. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 3,
    worin der erste Abschnitt (31) ein erstes Gehäuse (34) umfasst zur Aufnahme eines Stifts (33) des zweiten Abschnitts (32), wenn der zweite Abschnitt (32) am ersten Abschnitt befestigt ist (31).
  5. Schmuckstück gemäss einem der Ansprüche 2 bis 4,
    worin der erste Abschnitt (31) ein zweites Gehäuse (35) umfasst, in dem der besagte Teil von mindestens zwei Gitterelementen (4) untergebracht wird, wenn der zweite Abschnitt (32) mit dem ersten Abschnitt (31) befestigt ist.
  6. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 5,
    worin das zweite Gehäuse (35) so dimensioniert ist, um dem Teil von mindestens zwei Gitterelementen (4) einen Spielraum zu lassen, so dass die mindestens zwei Gitterelemente (4) auf gelenkige Weise verbunden sind.
  7. Schmuckstück gemäss einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6,
    worin mindestens eines der Verbindungsglieder (3) einen gefassten Stein umfasst.
  8. Schmuckstück gemäss einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7,
    worin die besagte Vielzahl von Gitterelementen (4) Gitterelemente von dreieckiger Form und rautenförmige Gitterelemente aufweist.
  9. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 8,
    worin der besagte zumindest eine Teil eines der Gitterelemente (4) an jeder der Ecken der dreieckigen und/oder rautenförmigen Form einen gekrümmten Abschnitt (41) aufweist.
  10. Schmuckstück gemäss einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9,
    mit einem festen Abschnitt (20), worin die besagte Vielzahl der Gitterelemente (4) so angeordnet ist, um ein Gitter (2) mit fixer Länge und im Wesentlichen konstanter Breite zu bilden.
  11. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 10,
    zudem mit einem in der Länge einstellbaren Teil (21), um die Länge des Armbands (1) einzustellen.
  12. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 11,
    worin jedes Verbindungsglied (3) lösbar mit dem besagten Teil der mindestens zwei benachbarten Gitterelemente (4) verbunden ist.
  13. Schmuckstück gemäss Anspruch 12,
    worin der erste Abschnitt (31) durch Verschrauben am zweiten Abschnitt (32) befestigt ist.
  14. Schmuckstück gemäss einem der Ansprüche 10 bis 13,
    zudem mit einem Befestigungsabschnitt (22), wobei die besagte Vielzahl der Gitterelemente (4) so angeordnet ist, um ein Gitter (2) abnehmender Breite zu bilden und um auf ein Uhrengehäuse befestigt zu werden.
  15. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schmuckstücks (1) gemäss einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 14, mit den folgenden Schritten:
    der erste Abschnitt (31) einer Vielzahl von Verbindungsgliedern (3) wird in einer Anordnung angeordnet, welche durch ein aus der Vielzahl von Gitterelementen gebildetes Gitter (2) bestimmt ist;
    der zweite Abschnitt (32) der besagten Vielzahl von Verbindungsgliedern (3) wird auf das Gitter (2) angeordnet, so dass jeder zweite Abschnitt (32) mit einem ersten Abschnitt (31) ausgerichtet ist;
    der erste Abschnitt (31) wird am zweiten Abschnitt (32) befestigt, um jedes der Verbindungsglieder (3) mit einem Teil von wenigstens zwei benachbarten Gitterelementen (4) zu verbinden; und
    die Brücken (5) werden durch eine vorbestimmte Verformung des Gitters (2) in Bezug auf die Ebene (7) des Werkstücks entfernt.
EP15151576.4A 2014-01-17 2015-01-19 Schmuckgegenstand mit Gelenkgliedern, insbesondere Uhrenarmband, und sein Herstellungsprozess Active EP2896312B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH00066/14A CH709161A1 (fr) 2014-01-17 2014-01-17 Pièce de bijouterie à maillons articulés, notamment un bracelet de montre, et son procédé de fabrication.

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2896312A1 EP2896312A1 (de) 2015-07-22
EP2896312B1 true EP2896312B1 (de) 2016-08-24

Family

ID=50382152

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP15151576.4A Active EP2896312B1 (de) 2014-01-17 2015-01-19 Schmuckgegenstand mit Gelenkgliedern, insbesondere Uhrenarmband, und sein Herstellungsprozess

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Country Link
EP (1) EP2896312B1 (de)
CH (1) CH709161A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT201700054760A1 (it) * 2017-05-19 2018-11-19 Nuovi Gioielli Srl Articolo di gioielleria fogliforme e procedimento per realizzare detto articolo di gioielleria
CH714671B1 (fr) * 2018-02-22 2022-05-31 Bulgari Horlogerie Sa Maille pour pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1997500A (en) * 1931-06-09 1935-04-09 Swarovski Daniel Method of manufacturing new articles of jewelry and ornaments
DE6912513U (de) * 1969-03-28 1970-01-02 Renatus Wilm Aufbauteil fuer schmuckstuecke bzw. schmuckstueck in der form eines bandes, eines kolliers od. dgl.
US3931719A (en) * 1972-05-03 1976-01-13 D. Swarovski & Co., Glasschleiferei Jewelry Component having mounted stones connected by deformable webs
CH566118A5 (en) * 1973-07-09 1975-09-15 Bonjour Alain Articulating non-extendable jewelery bracelet - has bi-laminar discs joined by articulating 'H' shaped links with 'H' legs lodging in 'T' shaped disc cavities
CH678001A5 (en) * 1989-01-06 1991-07-31 Harry Winston Ultimate Timepie Jewelry bracelet - is made from lateral and central annular links held together by rods with heads at ends

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Publication number Publication date
EP2896312A1 (de) 2015-07-22
CH709161A1 (fr) 2015-07-31

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