EP2896312B1 - Piece of jewellery with articulated links, in particular a watch strap, and method for manufacturing same - Google Patents
Piece of jewellery with articulated links, in particular a watch strap, and method for manufacturing same Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2896312B1 EP2896312B1 EP15151576.4A EP15151576A EP2896312B1 EP 2896312 B1 EP2896312 B1 EP 2896312B1 EP 15151576 A EP15151576 A EP 15151576A EP 2896312 B1 EP2896312 B1 EP 2896312B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- mesh
- mesh elements
- item
- links
- jewellery
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 12
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 6
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229910003460 diamond Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229910045601 alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 239000000956 alloy Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 229910001020 Au alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000000919 ceramic Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003353 gold alloy Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 210000000707 wrist Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005034 decoration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002513 implantation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003698 laser cutting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007937 lozenge Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002905 metal composite material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008188 pellet Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010970 precious metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
- A44C5/02—Link constructions
- A44C5/10—Link constructions not extensible
- A44C5/107—Link constructions not extensible with links made of more than two elements including connecting elements
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C11/00—Watch chains; Ornamental chains
- A44C11/007—Tennis type
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a piece of jewelry with articulated links, including a watch strap, of simplified construction.
- the present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing said part.
- Bracelets necklaces or other pieces of jewelery including joints, for example links connected together by pins, are generally of complex design and requires a large number of operations for their assembly which must, most of the time, be carried out manually.
- these parts do not allow easy crimping stones.
- the links are pierced with holes allowing the passage of the pins, or the fact of piercing the outer link to drive the pin prohibited disassembly of the link and therefore any implantation of a stone in this area.
- a piece of jewelery according to the preamble of claim 1 is known from FR 0404032 .
- An object of the present invention is to provide a piece of jewelry, including a watch band, free from the limitations of known jewelry pieces.
- a piece of jewelery comprising a plurality of mesh elements arranged to form a mesh extending in a plane of the room; and a plurality of links, each link being configured to be connected to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements, so as to connect said at least two mesh elements in an articulated manner; each link comprising a first portion and a second portion such that, when the link is connected, said at least two mesh elements extend in the plane of the part, between the first portion and the second portion of the link; the mesh elements are connected to each other in the plane of the workpiece by bridges configured to be eliminated by a predetermined deformation of the mesh relative to the plane of the workpiece.
- the piece of jewelry of the invention is of simple construction and requires only up to three times less mesh element than in the case of known bracelets.
- the manufacture of the bracelet by is also simplified and allows the automation of the manufacturing process. It is therefore possible to obtain the piece of jewelry by an industrial type manufacturing process.
- the piece of jewelry is very flexible, light, comfortable to wear and allows great flexibility in its decoration, for example by the variation of the colors of the links and by the fact that the links can be crimped or not.
- the piece of jewelry is particularly well suited for a watch strap.
- figure 1 there is shown a piece of jewelry which is made according to the teachings of the invention.
- the example of figure 1 and the other examples below describe in particular a bracelet, especially for a watch. However, it should be understood that these examples are equally applicable to other types of bracelets as well as jewelery or jewelery items, such as crimped pins or not.
- the piece of jewelery in particular the bracelet 1, is equipped with a clasp 6 and comprises an arrangement of links 3 articulated, forming a regular pattern in the example of the figure 1 , so as to obtain a flexible strand capable of taking, within certain limits, such desired curvature, for example the curvature of a wrist.
- the bracelet 1 comprises a plurality of mesh elements 4 arranged to form a mesh 2 extending in the plane 7 of the bracelet when the latter is placed flat.
- the figure 2 shows such a mesh 2 comprising mesh elements 4 also arranged in a regular pattern.
- the mesh 2 comprises mesh elements 4 having the shape of a triangular ring 4 'and mesh elements having the shape of a diamond ring 4 ".
- By" ring is meant a" toroidal "element. Formed of a bar folded and empty in the middle.
- figure 3 illustrates isolated mesh elements 4, in particular, a triangular mesh element 4 '( Figures 3a and 3c ) and a diamond-shaped mesh element 4 "( figure 3b ).
- the mesh elements 4 may be made of metal or an alloy (for example an alloy of a precious metal) or in another material having sufficient flexibility to allow bending of the mesh 2 within given limits, for example to allow the bracelet 1 to take the curvature of a wrist.
- the mesh elements 4 are metallic and have a section smaller than 1 mm 2 , for example a section between 0.3 mm 2 and 0.6 mm 2 .
- the bracelet 1 also comprises a plurality of links 3, each link 3 being configured to be connected to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4, so as to connect at least the two mesh elements 4 in an articulated manner.
- the figure 4 illustrates a detail of a portion of the bracelet 1 in which the mesh elements 4 and the links 3 are shown in perspective.
- each of the links 3 comprises a first portion 31 and a second portion 32 configured such that, when the link 3 is connected to said portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4, the mesh elements 4 extend in the plane 7 of the bracelet, between the first portion 31 and the second portion 32 of the link 3.
- the links 3 are that is, the first and second portions 31, 32 are illustrated in the form of a pellet or disc.
- the links 3 may have another shape, for example a polygonal shape, square or other.
- the mesh elements 4 are connected to each other in the plane 7 of the bracelet by bridges 5 for holding together the mesh elements 4 so that the mesh elements 4 forming the mesh 2 are secured before the links 3 are connected to the mesh elements 4.
- the bridges 5 are configured to be eliminated by a predetermined deformation of the mesh 2 relative to the plane 7 of the bracelet.
- the portion of the mesh element 4 comprises a curved portion 41, for example on each of the vertices of the triangular shape 4 'and / or of the diamond shape 4 "( figure 3 ).
- the triangular and diamond shapes are advantageous for a compact arrangement of links 3, other shapes mesh elements 4 are also possible, for example rectangular, round, oval or other shapes.
- the mesh elements 4 can also take the form of solid elements.
- the mesh elements 4 may take the form of a solid triangle or diamond and have a bead at its periphery, that is, having a periphery thicker than the central portion.
- Such elements of mesh 4 have the advantage of giving a "fuller" appearance to the bracelet.
- the material forming these mesh elements 4 must be very flexible in order to maintain the flexibility of the bracelet 1.
- the lower portion 32 of the link 3 is configured to be fixed to the upper portion 31 so as to connect the link 3 to the portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4.
- the second portion 32 of the link 3 comprises a pin 33 intended to be driven into a first housing 34 of the first portion 31, so as to fix the first portion 31 to the second portion 32 when connecting the link to the mesh elements 4.
- the first portion 31 may also comprise a second housing 35 intended to receive said portion of the mesh elements 4. The dimensions of the second housing 35 are provided so as to allow play at the portion of the mesh elements 4 so that the links 3 are connected in an articulated manner.
- the links 3 When the links 3 are connected to the mesh elements 4, the latter extend in the plane 7 of the bracelet, between the first portion 31 and the second portion 32 of the link 3.
- the dimension of the links 3 can be adjusted so as to guarantee sufficient spacing between each of the links 3 so as not to limit the desired curvature allowed by the articulated connection.
- the diameter of the links 3 i.e. the diameter of the first and second portions 31, 32
- the figure 5 shows a view from below ( figure 5a ), in section in the plane 7 of the bracelet ( figure 5b ) and from above ( figure 5c ) of the bracelet 1 comprising the links 3 connected to the mesh elements 4 forming the mesh 2.
- the first portion 31 of the links 3 is visible on the lower face and the second portion 32 of the links 3 is visible on the upper face of the bracelet 1, the pattern formed by the links 3 being determined by the arrangement of the mesh elements 4.
- the links 3 may comprise a first portion 31 and a second portion 32 made of a metal or an alloy, for example a noble alloy such as a gold alloy.
- the first and second portions 31, 32 may also be made in a ceramics or ceramic metal composite, or any other material suitable for a bracelet.
- the first portion 31 and the second portion 32 are made of the same material as that of the mesh elements 4.
- the first portion 31 is made of a material different from that of the second portion 32.
- the material of the first portion 31 and / or second portion 32 may vary from one link 3 to the other in the pattern so as to obtain color effects and / or textures that vary along the bracelet 1.
- the links 3 comprise a set stone 8.
- the stone will obviously be crimped on the second portion 32 so as to be visible when the bracelet is worn.
- the figure 4c illustrates an example of a bracelet 1 in which some links 3 have a set stone 8.
- the links 3 comprising the stone may be thicker than those not crimped.
- the figure 6 illustrates an example in which all the links 3 of the bracelet 1 comprise a set stone 8.
- the arrangement and the geometry of the mesh elements 4 forming the mesh 2 can vary along the bracelet 1.
- the bracelet 1 comprises a fixed portion 20 in which the mesh 2 formed of the mesh elements 4 has already been described above with reference to the figure 2 .
- This fixed portion 20 is intended, for example, to form the greater part of the bracelet 1 and can typically be of fixed length to drop constant.
- the bracelet 1 also comprises a fastening portion 22 in the continuity of the fixed portion 20 and intended to be attached to a watch case at its end 23 opposite to that connected to the fixed portion 20.
- the mesh elements 4 have a dimension going down to the end 23 so as to form a mesh 2 of decreasing width towards the housing.
- the figure 8 illustrates the bracelet 1 of the invention attached to a watch case 9 and comprising the fixed portion 20 and the attachment portion 22 attached to the case 9.
- the bracelet 1 further comprises an adjustable portion 21 intended to allow adjustment of the length of the bracelet 1.
- each of the links 3 is removably connected, for example by screwing, to the portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4.
- the figure 9 shows a detail of the elements of mesh 4 and links 3 of the adjustable portion 21, according to an embodiment in which a screw 36 screws the first portion 31 of the link 3 to the second portion 32. It goes without saying that any other way of fixing the first and second portions 31, 32 so as to connect the link 3 removably to the portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements 4 may also be considered.
- the first portions 31 may be previously oriented with a vibrating bowl on a setting using a rotary vacuum system.
- the first portion 31 can be fixed to the second portion 32 by means of a press 10.
- the method described above is particularly suitable for the manufacture of the fixed portion 20 and the fastening portion 22 of the bracelet 1.
- the method may include steps such as breaking bridges 5 so as to obtain elements of mesh 4 (for example triangular and / or lozenge) not connected.
- the mesh elements 4 can then be arranged individually so as to form the mesh 2 corresponding to the adjustable portion 21 to lengthen the bracelet 1 according to a desired length.
- said method corresponds to manufacture extension link kits 3.
- the mesh elements 4 may be made by cutting into a metal plate, for example a polished gold alloy plate having a thickness of less than 1 mm, and preferably between 1 mm and 0.6 mm.
- the cutting can be performed using a laser cutting process.
- the laser can be focused and guided by low pressure water jet, the jet can have a diameter of about 50 microns to 100 microns in order to perform the cutting with good accuracy while limiting the heat generated during the which may cause damage to the cut material.
Landscapes
- Adornments (AREA)
Description
La présente invention a pour objet une pièce de bijouterie à maillons articulés, notamment un bracelet de montre, de construction simplifiée. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication de ladite pièce.The present invention relates to a piece of jewelry with articulated links, including a watch strap, of simplified construction. The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing said part.
Les bracelets, colliers ou autre pièces de bijouterie comprenant des articulations, par exemple des maillons reliés entre eux par des goupilles, sont de conception généralement complexe et requiert un grand nombre d'opérations pour leur montage qui doit, la plupart du temps, être effectués de façon manuelle.Bracelets, necklaces or other pieces of jewelery including joints, for example links connected together by pins, are generally of complex design and requires a large number of operations for their assembly which must, most of the time, be carried out manually.
De plus, ces pièces ne permettent pas aisément le sertissage de pierres. En effet, les maillons sont percés de trous permettant le passage des goupilles, or le fait de percer le maillon extérieur pour y chasser la goupille interdit le démontage du maillon et par conséquent toute implantation d'une pierre dans cette zone.In addition, these parts do not allow easy crimping stones. Indeed, the links are pierced with holes allowing the passage of the pins, or the fact of piercing the outer link to drive the pin prohibited disassembly of the link and therefore any implantation of a stone in this area.
Une pièce de bijouterie selon le préambule de la revendication 1 est connue de
Un but de la présente invention est de proposer une pièce de bijouterie, notamment un bracelet de montre, exempte des limitations des pièces de bijouterie connues.An object of the present invention is to provide a piece of jewelry, including a watch band, free from the limitations of known jewelry pieces.
Selon l'invention, ces buts sont atteints notamment au moyen d'une pièce de bijouterie comprenant une pluralité d'éléments de maille arrangés de façon à former une maille s'étendant dans un plan de la pièce; et une pluralité de maillons, chaque maillon étant configuré pour être connecté à une portion d'au moins deux éléments de maille adjacents, de sorte à relier lesdits au moins deux éléments de maille de manière articulée; chaque maillon comprenant une première portion et une seconde portion de sorte que, lorsque le maillon est connecté, lesdits au moins deux éléments de maille s'étendent dans le plan de la pièce, entre la première portion et la seconde portion du maillon; les éléments de maille sont reliés les uns aux autres dans le plan de la pièce par des ponts configurés pour être éliminés par une déformation prédéterminée de la maille par rapport au plan de la pièce.According to the invention, these objects are attained in particular by means of a piece of jewelery comprising a plurality of mesh elements arranged to form a mesh extending in a plane of the room; and a plurality of links, each link being configured to be connected to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements, so as to connect said at least two mesh elements in an articulated manner; each link comprising a first portion and a second portion such that, when the link is connected, said at least two mesh elements extend in the plane of the part, between the first portion and the second portion of the link; the mesh elements are connected to each other in the plane of the workpiece by bridges configured to be eliminated by a predetermined deformation of the mesh relative to the plane of the workpiece.
L'invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication de la pièce de bijouterie, comprenant les étapes de:
- disposer la première portion d'une pluralité de maillons selon un arrangement déterminé par une maille formée de la pluralité d'éléments de maille;
- disposer la seconde portion de ladite pluralité de maillons sur la maille de manière à ce que chaque seconde portion soit alignée avec une première portion;
- fixer la première portion à la seconde portion de manière à connecter chacun des maillons à une portion d'au moins deux éléments de maille adjacents; et
- éliminer les ponts par une déformation prédéterminée de la maille par rapport au plan de la pièce.
- disposing the first portion of a plurality of links in an arrangement determined by a mesh formed of the plurality of mesh elements;
- arranging the second portion of said plurality of links on the mesh such that each second portion is aligned with a first portion;
- attaching the first portion to the second portion so as to connect each of the links to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh members; and
- eliminating the bridges by a predetermined deformation of the mesh relative to the plane of the part.
La pièce de bijouterie de l'invention est de construction simple et ne requiert que jusqu'à trois fois moins d'élément de maille que dans le cas des bracelets connus. La fabrication du bracelet par est également simplifiée et permet l'automatisation du procédé de fabrication. Il est donc possible d'obtenir la pièce de bijouterie par un procédé de fabrication de type industriel. La pièce de bijouterie est très souple, légère, confortable au porté et permet une grande flexibilité dans sa décoration, par exemple par la variation des couleurs des maillons et par le fait que les maillons peuvent être sertis ou non. La pièce de bijouterie est particulièrement bien adaptée pour un bracelet de montre.The piece of jewelry of the invention is of simple construction and requires only up to three times less mesh element than in the case of known bracelets. The manufacture of the bracelet by is also simplified and allows the automation of the manufacturing process. It is therefore possible to obtain the piece of jewelry by an industrial type manufacturing process. The piece of jewelry is very flexible, light, comfortable to wear and allows great flexibility in its decoration, for example by the variation of the colors of the links and by the fact that the links can be crimped or not. The piece of jewelry is particularly well suited for a watch strap.
Des exemples de mise en oeuvre de l'invention sont indiqués dans la description illustrée par les figures annexées dans lesquelles :
- la
figure 1 illustre une pièce de bijouterie et comprenant une maille et des maillons, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 2 montre une maille formée d'éléments de maille, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 3 illustre des éléments de maille isolés, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 4 illustre un détail d'une portion de la pièce de bijouterie montrant l'arrangement des éléments de maille et des maillons, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 5 montre une vue de dessous (figure 5a ), en coupe (figure 5b ) et du dessus (figure 5c ) de la pièce de bijouterie comprenant les maillons connectés aux éléments de maille, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 6 illustre des maillons comportent une pierre sertie, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 7 montre l'arrangement des éléments de maille formant la maille le long de la pièce de bijouterie, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 8 illustre le bracelet de l'invention attaché à un boîtier de montre, selon un mode de réalisation; - la
figure 9 montre un détail des éléments de maille et des maillons d'une portion réglable de la pièce de bijouterie, selon un mode de réalisation; et - la
figure 10 illustre un procédé de fabrication de la pièce de bijouterie, selon un mode de réalisation.
- the
figure 1 illustrates a piece of jewelery and comprising a mesh and links, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 2 shows a mesh formed of mesh elements, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 3 illustrates isolated mesh elements, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 4 illustrates a detail of a portion of the jewelery piece showing the arrangement of the mesh elements and links, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 5 shows a view from below (figure 5a ), in section (figure 5b ) and from above (figure 5c ) of the jewelery piece comprising the links connected to the mesh elements, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 6 illustrates links comprise a set stone, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 7 shows the arrangement of the mesh elements forming the mesh along the piece of jewelry, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 8 illustrates the bracelet of the invention attached to a watch case, according to one embodiment; - the
figure 9 shows a detail of the mesh elements and links of an adjustable portion of the piece of jewelry, according to one embodiment; and - the
figure 10 illustrates a method of manufacturing the piece of jewelry, according to one embodiment.
Sur la
Dans l'exemple de la
Dans un mode de réalisation, le bracelet 1 comprend une pluralité d'éléments de maille 4 arrangés de façon à former une maille 2 s'étendant dans le plan 7 du bracelet quand ce dernier est disposé à plat. La
De façon avantageuse, la maille 2 comprend des éléments de maille 4 ayant la forme d'un anneau triangulaire 4' et des éléments de maille ayant la forme d'un anneau en losange 4". Par « anneau » on entend un élément « toroïdal » formé d'une barre pliée et vide au milieu. La
Le bracelet 1 comprend également une pluralité de maillons 3, chaque maillon 3 étant configuré pour être connecté à une portion d'au moins deux éléments de maille 4 adjacents, de manière à relier au moins les deux éléments de maille 4 de manière articulée. La
Les éléments de maille 4 sont reliés les uns aux autres dans le plan 7 du bracelet par des ponts 5 permettant de maintenir ensemble les éléments de maille 4 de façon à ce que les éléments de maille 4 formant la maille 2 soient solidaires avant que les maillons 3 ne soient connectés aux éléments de maille 4. Les ponts 5 sont configurés pour être éliminés par une déformation prédéterminée de la maille 2 par rapport au plan 7 du bracelet.The
Dans un mode de réalisation préféré, la portion de l'élément de maille 4 comprend une partie incurvée 41, par exemple sur chacun des sommets de la forme triangulaire 4' et/ou de la forme en losange 4" (
Dans un mode de réalisation, la portion inférieure 32 du maillon 3 est configurée pour venir se fixer à la portion supérieure 31 de manière à connecter le maillon 3 à la portion d'au moins deux éléments de maille 4 adjacents. Dans l'exemple illustré à la
Lorsque les maillons 3 sont connectés aux éléments de maille 4, ces derniers s'étendent dans le plan 7 du bracelet, entre la première portion 31 et la seconde portion 32 du maillon 3. La dimension des maillons 3 peut être ajustée de manière à garantir un espacement suffisant entre chacun des maillons 3 de manière à ne pas limiter la courbure désirée permise par la connexion articulée. Par exemple, dans l'exemple de la
Les maillons 3 peuvent comprendre une première portion 31 et une seconde portion 32 réalisées dans un métal ou un alliage, par exemple un alliage noble tel qu'un alliage d'or. Les première et seconde portions 31, 32 peuvent être également être réalisées dans une céramique ou un composite métal céramique, ou tout autre matériau approprié à un bracelet. Avantageusement, la première portion 31 et la seconde portion 32 sont réalisées dans le même matériau que celui des éléments de maille 4. Dans une variante, la première portion 31 est réalisée dans un matériau différent de celui de la seconde portion 32. Egalement, le matériau de la première portion 31 et/ou seconde portion 32 peut varier d'un maillon 3 à l'autre dans le motif de manière à obtenir des effets de couleurs et/ou de textures qui varient le long du bracelet 1.The
Dans un mode de réalisation, au moins une partie des maillons 3 comprennent une pierre sertie 8. La pierre sera évidemment sertie sur la seconde portion 32 de façon à être visible lorsque le bracelet est porté. La
Dans un mode de réalisation qui se réfère à la
Toujours dans l'exemple de la
Encore dans l'exemple de la
Dans un mode de réalisation illustré à la
- disposer la première
portion 31 d'une pluralité de maillons 3 selon un arrangement déterminé par unemaille 2 formée de la pluralité d'éléments de maille 4 (figure 10a ); - disposer la
maille 2 sur l'arrangement des premières portions 31 (figure 10b ); - disposer la seconde
portion 32 de la pluralité de maillons 3 sur lamaille 2 de façon que chaque secondeportion 32 soit alignée avec une première portion 31 (figure 10c ); - fixer la première
portion 31 à la secondeportion 32 de manière à connecter chacun des maillons 3 à une portion d'au moins deux éléments demaille 4 adjacents; et - éliminer les
ponts 5 par une déformation prédéterminée de lamaille 2 parrapport au plan 7 dubracelet 1.
- disposing the
first portion 31 of a plurality oflinks 3 in an arrangement determined by amesh 2 formed of the plurality of mesh elements 4 (figure 10a ); - arrange the
mesh 2 on the arrangement of the first portions 31 (figure 10b ); - arranging the
second portion 32 of the plurality oflinks 3 on themesh 2 so that eachsecond portion 32 is aligned with a first portion 31 (figure 10c ); - attaching the
first portion 31 to thesecond portion 32 so as to connect each of thelinks 3 to a portion of at least twoadjacent mesh members 4; and - eliminate the
bridges 5 by a predetermined deformation of themesh 2 relative to theplane 7 of thebracelet 1.
Les premières portions 31 peuvent être préalablement orientées à l'aide d'un bol vibrant sur un posage à l'aide d'un système de vide rotatif. La première portion 31 peut être fixée à la seconde portion 32 à l'aide d'une presse 10.The
Le procédé décrit ci-dessus est particulièrement adapté à la fabrication de la portion fixe 20 et la portion d'attache 22 du bracelet 1. Dans le cas de la portion réglable 21, le procédé peut comporter des étapes telles que celle de casser des ponts 5 de sorte à obtenir des éléments de maille 4 (par exemple triangulaires et/ou en losange) non reliés. Les éléments de maille 4 peuvent alors être disposés individuellement de manière à former la maille 2 correspondant à la portion réglable 21 permettant d'allonger le bracelet 1 selon une longueur souhaitée. Autrement dit, dans le cas de la portion réglable 21, ledit procédé correspond à fabriquer des kits de maillons 3 de rallonge.The method described above is particularly suitable for the manufacture of the fixed
Les éléments de maille 4 peuvent être fabriqués par découpage dans une plaque métallique, par exemple une plaque en alliage d'or polie ayant une épaisseur inférieure à 1 mm, et préférablement comprise entre 1 mm et 0.6 mm. Le découpage peut être réalisé à l'aide d'un procédé de découpage au laser. Le laser peut être focalisé et guidé par jet d'eau à basse pression, le jet pouvant avoir un diamètre de l'ordre de 50 µm à 100 µm afin d'effectuer la découpe avec une bonne précision tout en limitant la chaleur dégagée lors du procédé pouvant provoquer des dommages au matériau découpé.The
- 11
- pièce de bijouterie, braceletjewelery piece, bracelet
- 22
- maillestitch
- 2020
- portion fixefixed portion
- 2121
- portion réglableadjustable portion
- 2222
- portion d'attacheattachment portion
- 2323
- extrémité de la portion d'attacheend of the attachment portion
- 33
- maillonlink
- 3131
- première portion du maillonfirst portion of the link
- 3232
- seconde portion du maillonsecond portion of the link
- 3333
- goupillepin
- 3434
- premier logementfirst housing
- 3535
- second logementsecond housing
- 3636
- visscrew
- 44
- éléments de maillemesh elements
- 4141
- partie incurvée d'un élément de maillecurved part of a mesh element
- 55
- pont amovibleremovable bridge
- 66
- fermoirclasp
- 77
- plan de la pièce de bijouterie (ou du bracelet)plan of the piece of jewelery (or bracelet)
- 88
- pierre sertiestone set
- 99
- boîtier de montrewatch case
- 1010
- pressehurry
Claims (15)
- Item of jewellery (1) comprising:a plurality of mesh elements (4) arranged so as to form a mesh (2) extending in a plane (7) of the workpiece; anda plurality of links (3), each link (3) being configured to be connected to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements (4), so as to connect said at least two mesh elements (4) in an articulated manner;characterized in that
each link (3) comprises a first portion (31) and a second portion (32) so that when the link (3) is connected, said at least two mesh elements (4) extend in the plane (7) of the workpiece between the first portion (31) and the second portion (32) of the link (3);
and that
the mesh elements (4) are connected to each other in the plane (7) of the workpiece by bridges (5) configured to be removed by a predetermined deformation of the mesh (2) relative to the plane (7) of the workpiece. - Item of jewellery according to claim 1,
wherein the second portion (32) is configured to be fastened to the first portion (31) when the link (3) is connected to said portion of at least two mesh elements (4). - Item of jewellery according to claim 2,
wherein the second portion (32) is configured to be fastened by being driven to the first portion (31). - Item of jewellery according to claim 3,
wherein the first portion (31) comprises a first housing (34) for receiving a pin (33) of the second portion (32) when the second portion (32) is attached to the first portion (31). - Item of jewellery according to one of claims 2 to 4,
wherein the first portion (31) comprises a second housing (35) in which is housed said portion of at least two mesh elements (4) when the second portion (32) is fastened to the first portion (31). - Item of jewellery according to claim 5,
wherein the second housing (35) is dimensioned to leave a play in said portion of at least two mesh elements (4) so that said at least two mesh elements (4) are connected in an articulated manner. - Item of jewellery according to any of claims 1 to 6,
wherein at least one of the links (3) comprises a crimped stone. - Item of jewellery according to any of claims 1 to 7,
wherein said plurality of mesh elements (4) comprises mesh elements of triangular shape and diamond-shaped mesh elements. - Item of jewellery according to claim 8,
wherein said at least a portion of one of the mesh elements (4) comprises a curved portion (41) on each of the vertices of the triangular and/or diamond shape. - Item of jewellery according to any of claims 1 to 9,
comprising a fixed portion (20) wherein said plurality of mesh elements (4) is arranged to form a mesh (2) of fixed length and substantially constant width. - Item of jewellery according to claim 10,
further comprising a portion (21) adjustable in length so as to adjust the length of the bracelet (1). - Item of jewellery according to claim 11,
wherein each link (3) is removably connected to said portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements (4). - Item of jewellery according to claim 12,
wherein the first portion (31) is fixed by screwing to the second portion (32). - Item of jewellery according to any of claims 10 to 13,
further comprising an attachment portion (22) wherein said plurality of mesh elements (4) is arranged to form a mesh (2) of decreasing width and designed to be attached to a watch case. - Method for manufacturing an item of jewellery (1) according to one of claims 1 to 14 comprising
placing the first portion (31) of a plurality of links (3) in an arrangement determined by a mesh (2) formed of the plurality of mesh elements (4);
placing the second portion (32) of said plurality of links (3) on the mesh (2) so that each second portion (32) is aligned with a first portion (31);
securing the first portion (31) to the second portion (32) so as to connect each of the links (3) to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements (4); and
removing the bridges (5) by a predetermined deformation of the mesh (2) relative to the plane (7) of the workpiece.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CH00066/14A CH709161A1 (en) | 2014-01-17 | 2014-01-17 | Piece of jewelry with articulated links, including a watch strap, and its manufacturing process. |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP2896312A1 EP2896312A1 (en) | 2015-07-22 |
EP2896312B1 true EP2896312B1 (en) | 2016-08-24 |
Family
ID=50382152
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP15151576.4A Active EP2896312B1 (en) | 2014-01-17 | 2015-01-19 | Piece of jewellery with articulated links, in particular a watch strap, and method for manufacturing same |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP2896312B1 (en) |
CH (1) | CH709161A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
IT201700054760A1 (en) * | 2017-05-19 | 2018-11-19 | Nuovi Gioielli Srl | ARTICLE OF FOGLIFORME JEWELERY AND PROCEDURE FOR IMPLEMENTING THAT ARTICLE OF JEWELRY |
CH714671B1 (en) * | 2018-02-22 | 2022-05-31 | Bulgari Horlogerie Sa | Mesh for piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking. |
Family Cites Families (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US1997500A (en) * | 1931-06-09 | 1935-04-09 | Swarovski Daniel | Method of manufacturing new articles of jewelry and ornaments |
DE6912513U (en) * | 1969-03-28 | 1970-01-02 | Renatus Wilm | ASSEMBLY PART FOR JEWELRY OR JEWELERY IN THE FORM OF A RIBBON, A COLLAR, OR. DGL. |
US3931719A (en) * | 1972-05-03 | 1976-01-13 | D. Swarovski & Co., Glasschleiferei | Jewelry Component having mounted stones connected by deformable webs |
CH566118A5 (en) * | 1973-07-09 | 1975-09-15 | Bonjour Alain | Articulating non-extendable jewelery bracelet - has bi-laminar discs joined by articulating 'H' shaped links with 'H' legs lodging in 'T' shaped disc cavities |
CH678001A5 (en) * | 1989-01-06 | 1991-07-31 | Harry Winston Ultimate Timepie | Jewelry bracelet - is made from lateral and central annular links held together by rods with heads at ends |
-
2014
- 2014-01-17 CH CH00066/14A patent/CH709161A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
-
2015
- 2015-01-19 EP EP15151576.4A patent/EP2896312B1/en active Active
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP2896312A1 (en) | 2015-07-22 |
CH709161A1 (en) | 2015-07-31 |
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