EP0276184A1 - Method for setting a gem, and a piece of juwelery obtained by this method - Google Patents

Abstract

A method of setting precious stones in jewelry includes providing a metal support element of U-shaped cross section with two lateral bands separated by a central band and defining between them a channel, providing holes in the lateral bands and placing the stones into the channel and securing the stones in place in the channel with a wire passed through the holes from one band to the other across the channel.

Description

The present invention relates to a method of setting precious stones for obtaining jewelry, in particular rings or bracelets garnished with diamonds or other cut precious stones.

Since the earliest times, jewelers have gone up in gold, platinum and silver, precious stones cut of all kinds to make jewelry and adornments. Diamonds and precious stones are today most often held in a metallic support by claws or settings.

If we ignore the stones that are directly embedded in the metal, this type of mounting is currently used almost universally, as well for diamonds, and this, whatever their size (brilliants, roses, shuttles, cabochons ...) than for other precious stones.

It has the disadvantage of requiring very long and meticulous work, therefore expensive, and of being able to adapt only to jewelry of relatively classic style.

The object of the present invention is to propose a new method for setting gemstones, which is simpler and quicker to implement than the conventional method of setting with claws, and, in addition to finished jewelry, gives a "bare" aspect, in perfect correspondence with the current evolution of aesthetics.

According to the invention, this method is characterized in that a metal support element with a U-shaped section is produced comprising two lateral bands separated by a central band and defining between them a gutter of width corresponding to that of the stones to be crimp, holes are drilled in each of the side bands separated by a distance corresponding to the dimensions of the stones, the latter are placed side by side in the gutter and a metal wire is passed through the holes in the side bands of the element support by going from one branch to the other on either side of the gutter so as to keep the stones in it.

This mode of crimping according to the invention is generally similar to a seam: the stones are, in fact, in a way, sewn into the support element; it is also possible to crimp stone by stone by welding several individual wires similar to pins, which makes it possible to modify or cancel the lateral aspect of the courture; of course, the setting according to the invention can, if necessary, alternate with a conventional setting.

This process is especially suitable for the manufacture of wedding rings garnished on their entire periphery or only on a part of it, of diamonds or precious stones cut with facets, in particular brilliant or cabochons.

It can, however, be used for making totally different jewelry, such as brooches or earrings, or even necklaces or bracelets. In the latter case, the support element may not be rigid but be articulated in particular by means of links. The use of this process can, of course, also be considered for the creation of costume jewelry.

In all cases, the side bands prevent lateral movement of the stones while the seam holds them forward.

According to another characteristic of the invention, the two lateral bands are parallel, the holes in these two bands correspond two by two on a perpendicular or a diagonal common to these.

This configuration is the most frequently used according to the invention; we could, also, provide in the case of earrings, pendants or costume jewelry ..., two bands that widen angularly, separated by stones whose size is increasing; in this case, it is necessary for the holes in the strips to correspond in pairs on axes of the same direction, in particular parallel to the bisector plane of the two strips.

According to the invention, the metal wire therefore describes a more or less deformed "sinusoid" around the stones and at the front of the stones to keep them in the gutter. It is easy to conceive that, in the manner of a conventional seam, this thread projects on the external faces of the lateral bands at the places corresponding to the "points" on the intervals situated between the holes.

According to another characteristic of the invention, grooves are hollowed out between the holes in the lateral strips of the support element, one in two of the intervals between the holes being underlined by a groove.

This characteristic makes it possible to "encase" the metallic wire so that it does not protrude on the external face of the bands, which increases the rigidity and reduces the wear of the jewel by improving its aesthetics.

Of course, so that the grooves correspond to the above-mentioned "points", therefore to the portions of metal wire projecting from the outer face of the side bands, it is necessary that these are alternately offset on the two side bands of the support element.

According to another characteristic of the invention, the central strip of the support element comprises perforations provided at the rear part of the stones, in particular their breech, in order to allow their updating.

This characteristic makes it possible to highlight diamonds or precious stones cut in brilliants.

The process according to the invention can, of course, be used for the manufacture of costume jewelry; it has, however, proven to be particularly suitable for the manufacture of precious jewelry in which the support element and the wire are made of a metal chosen from the group consisting of gold, silver and platinum while precious stones are diamonds, emeralds, rubies or sapphires.

The section of the wire can be arbitrary without departing from the scope of the invention: it is most often circular.

The invention also relates to a jewel obtained by the implementation of the above-mentioned method.

This jewel is characterized in that it is constituted by a metallic support element in particular in a precious metal with U-shaped section, comprising two lateral bands separated by a central band and defining between them a gutter in which stones take place. precious stones arranged side by side which are held laterally by the side bands and towards the front, thanks to a metal wire in particular made of a precious metal placed in holes drilled in the latter passing on either side of the gutter .

This jewel can be any without departing from the scope of the invention and being constituted by earrings, pendants, bracelets, necklaces ...

This jewel is, however, very frequently constituted by an alliance surrounded completely or partially by small diamonds or precious stones.

Another configuration of this jewel corresponds to a rigid bracelet totally or partially surrounded by diamonds or precious stones. In this case, it is necessary to provide it, on the one hand, with a hinge and, on the other hand, with closing elements allowing it to be put in place.

Furthermore, once in place, the metal wire is welded either on itself (closed annular jewel) or on the support element in order to carry out the final maintenance of the jewel.

• - la figure 1 représente une alliance en diamants,
• - la figure 2 est une vue en perspective analogue à la figure 1, mais représentant une alliance comportant deux rangs de pierres,
• - la figure 3 représente un pendentif conforme à l'inven­tion,
• - la figure 4 représente un bracelet conforme à l'inven­tion.

The characteristics of the process as well as of the jewel which are the subject of the invention will be described in more detail with reference to the appended drawings in which:

• - Figure 1 represents a diamond wedding ring,
• FIG. 2 is a perspective view similar to FIG. 1, but showing an alliance comprising two rows of stones,
• FIG. 3 represents a pendant according to the invention,
• - Figure 4 shows a bracelet according to the invention.

According to FIG. 1, the precious stones 1 cut in brilliants garnishing the alliance in accordance with the invention are mounted on an annular support element 2 with U-shaped section comprising two lateral annular bands 20 and 21 separated by a central annular band 3 with perforations 4 provided at the level of the breech of the stones 1 in order to allow their updating so that they can shine with all their brilliance.

The width a of the central strip 3 corresponds to that of the stones 1. This strip 3 cooperates with the lateral strips 20 and 21 of the support element 2 to define a gutter 6 in which the stones 1 are placed side by side.

The stones 1 are therefore retained laterally by the bands 20 and 21. To allow them to be retained forwards, the bands 20 and 21 are pierced with holes 5 corresponding from one band to another, and separated by a distance b corresponding to the dimensions of the brilliants 1.

These holes 5 are used for the installation on either side of the gutter 6 of a metal wire 7 which describes a deformed "sinusoid" projecting from the external face of the bands 20 and 21 by points 8 similar to those of a seam.

Figure 1 shows the wire 7 being laid. Not shown thereon, when the latter has been placed over the entire periphery of the annular support element 2, it is welded to itself by its ends 9 in order to maintain the ring set. It is easy to imagine that the brilliants 1 are then perfectly maintained inside the gutter 6.

Furthermore, grooves 10 are provided on the external face of the lateral bands 20 and 21 at the location of the points 8, in order to prevent the wire 7 from projecting outwards and therefore, improve the aesthetics of the together. These grooves 10 are of course offset from one side band 20, 21 to the other to correspond each time to the top of the sinusoid described by the wire 7.

It should be noted that the ring shown in the figure can, as well, be made of a precious metal as constituted by a costume jewel.

According to Figure 2, the invention can also be applied to an alliance comprising two rows of stones 1 and 1ʹ. In this case, it is necessary to provide two identical support elements 2 and 2ʹ connected in any way, in particular welded together.

In the case shown in the figure, the wire 7ʹ is mounted on stones 1, 1ʹ placed diagonally with respect to each other.

On the same model, we could, of course, provide a ring with a larger number of rows of stones.

According to Figure 3, in the case of a pendant to be hung on a chain not shown by means of a bail 11, there is provided a support element 22 whose side bands 20ʹ and 21ʹ are not parallel but go s widening anularly downwards. In this case, it is well understood, necessiare to provide stones 1 whose size is increasing.

According to Figure 4, the stones 1 of a bracelet are held forward either by a single wire 7 "sewn" or by separate son 70 forming pins which are individually welded to the side branches 20 and 21 of the support element 2 with U-shaped section.

Of course, and as already indicated, the jewelry shown in the figures should only be considered by way of example and the invention could be applied to jewelry of a completely different configuration.

Claims (8)

1 °) Method of setting precious stones for obtaining jewelry, in particular rings or bracelets garnished with diamonds or other cut precious stones, process characterized in that a metal support element (2) with shaped section is manufactured of U comprising two lateral bands (20, 21) separated by a central band (3) and defining, between them, a gutter (6) of width (a) corresponding to that of the stones (1) to be crimped, one drills in each of the lateral bands (20, 21) of the holes separated (5) by a distance (b) corresponding to the dimensions of the stones (1), the latter are placed side by side in the gutter (6) and a metal wire (7) in the holes (5) of the lateral bands (20, 21) of the support element (2) going from one branch to the other, on either side of the gutter (6) so as to keep the stones in it. 2 °) Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the two lateral bands (20, 21) are parallel, the holes (5) of these two bands corresponding two by two on a perpendicular or a diagonal common to them . 3 °) Method according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that one digs grooves (10) between the holes (5) of the side strips (20, 21) of the support element (2) , one in two of the intervals between the two holes (5) being underlined by a groove (10). 4 °) Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the grooves (10) are alternately offset on the two side strips (20, 21) of the support element (2). 5 °) Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the strip central (3) of the support element (2) comprises perforations (4) provided at the rear part of the stones (1), in particular their cylinder head in order to allow their updating. 6 °) Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the support element (2) and the wire (7) are made of a metal chosen from the group consisting of gold, silver and platinum. 7 °) Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the wire (7) has a circular section. 8 °) jewel obtained by the implementation of the method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is constituted by a metallic support element (2) in particular of a precious metal with U-shaped section , comprising two lateral bands (20, 21) separated by a central band (3) and defining between them a gutter (6) in which take place precious stones (1) arranged side by side which are held laterally by the lateral bands (20, 21) and forwards thanks to a metal wire (7) in particular made of a precious metal placed in holes (5) drilled in the latter passing on either side of the gutter (6) .

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