EP0276184A1 - Verfahren zum Einfassen von Edelsteinen sowie nach dem Verfahren hergestelltes Schmuckstück - Google Patents

Verfahren zum Einfassen von Edelsteinen sowie nach dem Verfahren hergestelltes Schmuckstück Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0276184A1
EP0276184A1 EP88400092A EP88400092A EP0276184A1 EP 0276184 A1 EP0276184 A1 EP 0276184A1 EP 88400092 A EP88400092 A EP 88400092A EP 88400092 A EP88400092 A EP 88400092A EP 0276184 A1 EP0276184 A1 EP 0276184A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stones
support element
holes
gutter
bands
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP88400092A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0276184B1 (de
Inventor
Alain Bonnefoy
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cartier International BV
Original Assignee
Cartier International BV
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cartier International BV filed Critical Cartier International BV
Priority to AT88400092T priority Critical patent/ATE51128T1/de
Publication of EP0276184A1 publication Critical patent/EP0276184A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0276184B1 publication Critical patent/EP0276184B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of setting precious stones for obtaining jewelry, in particular rings or bracelets garnished with diamonds or other cut precious stones.
  • the object of the present invention is to propose a new method for setting gemstones, which is simpler and quicker to implement than the conventional method of setting with claws, and, in addition to finished jewelry, gives a "bare" aspect, in perfect correspondence with the current evolution of aesthetics.
  • this method is characterized in that a metal support element with a U-shaped section is produced comprising two lateral bands separated by a central band and defining between them a gutter of width corresponding to that of the stones to be crimp, holes are drilled in each of the side bands separated by a distance corresponding to the dimensions of the stones, the latter are placed side by side in the gutter and a metal wire is passed through the holes in the side bands of the element support by going from one branch to the other on either side of the gutter so as to keep the stones in it.
  • This mode of crimping according to the invention is generally similar to a seam: the stones are, in fact, in a way, sewn into the support element; it is also possible to crimp stone by stone by welding several individual wires similar to pins, which makes it possible to modify or cancel the lateral aspect of the courture; of course, the setting according to the invention can, if necessary, alternate with a conventional setting.
  • This process is especially suitable for the manufacture of wedding rings garnished on their entire periphery or only on a part of it, of diamonds or precious stones cut with facets, in particular brilliant or cabochons.
  • the support element may not be rigid but be articulated in particular by means of links.
  • the use of this process can, of course, also be considered for the creation of costume jewelry.
  • the two lateral bands are parallel, the holes in these two bands correspond two by two on a perpendicular or a diagonal common to these.
  • This configuration is the most frequently used according to the invention; we could, also, provide in the case of earrings, pendants or costume jewelry ..., two bands that widen angularly, separated by stones whose size is increasing; in this case, it is necessary for the holes in the strips to correspond in pairs on axes of the same direction, in particular parallel to the bisector plane of the two strips.
  • the metal wire therefore describes a more or less deformed "sinusoid" around the stones and at the front of the stones to keep them in the gutter. It is easy to conceive that, in the manner of a conventional seam, this thread projects on the external faces of the lateral bands at the places corresponding to the "points" on the intervals situated between the holes.
  • grooves are hollowed out between the holes in the lateral strips of the support element, one in two of the intervals between the holes being underlined by a groove.
  • the central strip of the support element comprises perforations provided at the rear part of the stones, in particular their breech, in order to allow their updating.
  • the process according to the invention can, of course, be used for the manufacture of costume jewelry; it has, however, proven to be particularly suitable for the manufacture of precious jewelry in which the support element and the wire are made of a metal chosen from the group consisting of gold, silver and platinum while precious stones are diamonds, emeralds, rubies or sapphires.
  • the section of the wire can be arbitrary without departing from the scope of the invention: it is most often circular.
  • the invention also relates to a jewel obtained by the implementation of the above-mentioned method.
  • This jewel is characterized in that it is constituted by a metallic support element in particular in a precious metal with U-shaped section, comprising two lateral bands separated by a central band and defining between them a gutter in which stones take place. precious stones arranged side by side which are held laterally by the side bands and towards the front, thanks to a metal wire in particular made of a precious metal placed in holes drilled in the latter passing on either side of the gutter .
  • This jewel can be any without departing from the scope of the invention and being constituted by earrings, pendants, bracelets, necklaces ...
  • This jewel is, however, very frequently constituted by an alliance surrounded completely or partially by small diamonds or precious stones.
  • This jewel corresponds to a rigid bracelet totally or partially surrounded by diamonds or precious stones. In this case, it is necessary to provide it, on the one hand, with a hinge and, on the other hand, with closing elements allowing it to be put in place.
  • the metal wire is welded either on itself (closed annular jewel) or on the support element in order to carry out the final maintenance of the jewel.
  • the precious stones 1 cut in brilliants garnishing the alliance in accordance with the invention are mounted on an annular support element 2 with U-shaped section comprising two lateral annular bands 20 and 21 separated by a central annular band 3 with perforations 4 provided at the level of the breech of the stones 1 in order to allow their updating so that they can shine with all their brilliance.
  • the width a of the central strip 3 corresponds to that of the stones 1.
  • This strip 3 cooperates with the lateral strips 20 and 21 of the support element 2 to define a gutter 6 in which the stones 1 are placed side by side.
  • the stones 1 are therefore retained laterally by the bands 20 and 21.
  • the bands 20 and 21 are pierced with holes 5 corresponding from one band to another, and separated by a distance b corresponding to the dimensions of the brilliants 1.
  • holes 5 are used for the installation on either side of the gutter 6 of a metal wire 7 which describes a deformed "sinusoid" projecting from the external face of the bands 20 and 21 by points 8 similar to those of a seam.
  • Figure 1 shows the wire 7 being laid. Not shown thereon, when the latter has been placed over the entire periphery of the annular support element 2, it is welded to itself by its ends 9 in order to maintain the ring set. It is easy to imagine that the brilliants 1 are then perfectly maintained inside the gutter 6.
  • grooves 10 are provided on the external face of the lateral bands 20 and 21 at the location of the points 8, in order to prevent the wire 7 from projecting outwards and therefore, improve the aesthetics of the together. These grooves 10 are of course offset from one side band 20, 21 to the other to correspond each time to the top of the sinusoid described by the wire 7.
  • the ring shown in the figure can, as well, be made of a precious metal as constituted by a costume jewel.
  • the invention can also be applied to an alliance comprising two rows of stones 1 and 1 ⁇ .
  • the wire 7 ⁇ is mounted on stones 1, 1 ⁇ placed diagonally with respect to each other.
  • the stones 1 of a bracelet are held forward either by a single wire 7 "sewn" or by separate son 70 forming pins which are individually welded to the side branches 20 and 21 of the support element 2 with U-shaped section.
EP88400092A 1987-01-19 1988-01-18 Verfahren zum Einfassen von Edelsteinen sowie nach dem Verfahren hergestelltes Schmuckstück Expired - Lifetime EP0276184B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT88400092T ATE51128T1 (de) 1987-01-19 1988-01-18 Verfahren zum einfassen von edelsteinen sowie nach dem verfahren hergestelltes schmuckstueck.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8700513 1987-01-19
FR8700513A FR2609606B1 (fr) 1987-01-19 1987-01-19 Procede de sertissage de pierres precieuses ainsi que bijou obtenu par la mise en oeuvre de ce procede

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0276184A1 true EP0276184A1 (de) 1988-07-27
EP0276184B1 EP0276184B1 (de) 1990-03-21

Family

ID=9347019

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP88400092A Expired - Lifetime EP0276184B1 (de) 1987-01-19 1988-01-18 Verfahren zum Einfassen von Edelsteinen sowie nach dem Verfahren hergestelltes Schmuckstück

Country Status (9)

Country Link
US (1) US4821533A (de)
EP (1) EP0276184B1 (de)
JP (2) JPS6485603A (de)
AT (1) ATE51128T1 (de)
DE (2) DE3860058D1 (de)
ES (1) ES2006443B3 (de)
FR (1) FR2609606B1 (de)
GR (2) GR890300039T1 (de)
HK (1) HK100191A (de)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5520017A (en) * 1995-01-25 1996-05-28 Oren Vivat Jewelry items with invisible gemstone settings and methods of assembly therefore
WO2010061027A1 (es) * 2008-11-25 2010-06-03 Cordobesa De Relojes Y Joyas, S.L. Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento.

Families Citing this family (22)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5036682A (en) * 1990-08-02 1991-08-06 Kennedy John J Jewelry utilizing cylindrical gemstones
US5398525A (en) * 1993-10-08 1995-03-21 Kennedy; John J. Jewelry with rod like gemstones and method of making same
USD378285S (en) * 1995-03-02 1997-03-04 Samuel Aaron, Inc. Ring
US6412304B1 (en) 1999-05-24 2002-07-02 Stuart J. Adelman Jewelry
US6289903B1 (en) * 2000-07-25 2001-09-18 Heidi K. J. Haufler Accessory display system and method
US6564583B2 (en) * 2001-04-24 2003-05-20 Martin Gruber Gruber Jewelry with girdle-grooved stone
US6688139B2 (en) 2001-06-13 2004-02-10 Patricia Tschetter Method and apparatus for interconnecting jewelry elements
US7225639B2 (en) * 2002-12-02 2007-06-05 Kobi Katz Inc. Expandable ring design and method for making same
US20050257567A1 (en) * 2004-05-19 2005-11-24 Michael Bondanza Close fitting ring
US20060032271A1 (en) * 2004-08-13 2006-02-16 Arun Thapar Dancing stone for suspending from an article of jewelry
US20090235689A1 (en) * 2008-03-21 2009-09-24 Christopher Designs, Inc. Gemstone jewelry with enhanced appearance
ITVI20090307A1 (it) * 2009-12-24 2011-06-25 Flii Bovo S R L Manufatto a scopo ornamentale
US8567065B2 (en) * 2010-06-10 2013-10-29 Joseph Mardkha Method of augmenting a ring
US8677624B2 (en) * 2011-12-07 2014-03-25 Joseph Mardkha Ring with outer markings/segments for setting gemstones
USD737715S1 (en) * 2013-04-23 2015-09-01 Roberto Coin S.P.A. Article of jewelry
USD755072S1 (en) * 2014-04-03 2016-05-03 Hasmukh Dholakiya Gemstone jewelry article
US9596911B2 (en) 2014-04-11 2017-03-21 Diamour Inc. Jewelry mount
USD779362S1 (en) * 2015-08-03 2017-02-21 Cartier International Ag Bracelet
CN107083623B (zh) * 2017-06-14 2023-01-10 朱月眉 一种串珠装置及具有该装置的绣珠机
US11105748B2 (en) 2018-03-30 2021-08-31 Ashley Elizabeth Moy Gemstone valuation apparatus
TWD202790S (zh) * 2018-06-13 2020-02-21 瑞士商哈利溫士頓公司 戒指
KR101966051B1 (ko) * 2018-09-14 2019-04-05 임효민 소형원석의 활용이 가능한 장신구 제조방법

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH452254A (fr) * 1963-10-17 1968-05-31 Chirol Francis Procédé de fabrication d'un bijou comprenant des éléments précieux jointivement placés sur une monture-support, monture pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé et bijou résultant du procédé
FR2384468A1 (fr) * 1977-03-21 1978-10-20 Ducros Jean Luc Monture pour pierres precieuses, et procede pour sertir les pierres dans cette monture
FR2428990A1 (fr) * 1978-06-22 1980-01-18 Auchere Francois Procede de sertissage de pierres sur un anneau et anneau obtenu par ce procede
GB2058546A (en) * 1979-09-17 1981-04-15 Vitau J Setting for precious stones or the like
FR2488496A1 (fr) * 1980-08-12 1982-02-19 Chirol Francis Monture pour pierres precieuses ou analogues et son procede de fabrication

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1032025A (en) * 1912-02-05 1912-07-09 Meyer L Robbins Article of jewelry.
US2265956A (en) * 1940-08-23 1941-12-09 Ernest G H Schenck Jewelry and method of mounting precious stones
US3974662A (en) * 1974-01-17 1976-08-17 Serop Avedissian Annulus of joined settings with filiform claw elements
JPS57164203A (en) * 1981-04-03 1982-10-08 Babcock Hitachi Kk Pin stud improved in corrosion resistance
JPS58165806A (ja) * 1982-03-29 1983-09-30 セイコーエプソン株式会社 腕時計用装飾宝石・貴石の固定方法
JPS6162403A (ja) * 1984-08-31 1986-03-31 京セラ株式会社 宝石類の固定方法
JPS622994A (ja) * 1985-06-28 1987-01-08 東洋化成工業株式会社 環縫い目糸尻結束方法及び結束装置

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH452254A (fr) * 1963-10-17 1968-05-31 Chirol Francis Procédé de fabrication d'un bijou comprenant des éléments précieux jointivement placés sur une monture-support, monture pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé et bijou résultant du procédé
FR2384468A1 (fr) * 1977-03-21 1978-10-20 Ducros Jean Luc Monture pour pierres precieuses, et procede pour sertir les pierres dans cette monture
FR2428990A1 (fr) * 1978-06-22 1980-01-18 Auchere Francois Procede de sertissage de pierres sur un anneau et anneau obtenu par ce procede
GB2058546A (en) * 1979-09-17 1981-04-15 Vitau J Setting for precious stones or the like
FR2488496A1 (fr) * 1980-08-12 1982-02-19 Chirol Francis Monture pour pierres precieuses ou analogues et son procede de fabrication

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5520017A (en) * 1995-01-25 1996-05-28 Oren Vivat Jewelry items with invisible gemstone settings and methods of assembly therefore
WO2010061027A1 (es) * 2008-11-25 2010-06-03 Cordobesa De Relojes Y Joyas, S.L. Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE3860058D1 (de) 1990-04-26
ES2006443A4 (es) 1989-05-01
JPS6485603A (en) 1989-03-30
JPH0731695Y2 (ja) 1995-07-26
ATE51128T1 (de) 1990-04-15
FR2609606A1 (fr) 1988-07-22
HK100191A (en) 1991-12-20
FR2609606B1 (fr) 1991-01-11
JPH0611517U (ja) 1994-02-15
ES2006443B3 (es) 1990-05-01
US4821533A (en) 1989-04-18
GR890300039T1 (en) 1989-05-25
GR3000473T3 (en) 1991-06-28
DE276184T1 (de) 1989-06-22
EP0276184B1 (de) 1990-03-21

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