CH719189A2 - Crimping chaton and method for crimping a decorative assembly. - Google Patents

Abstract

One aspect of the invention relates to a crimping bezel (1), comprising, aligned along a driving-in axis (A) in a housing of a piece of jewellery, jewelery or timepieces, an upper body (15) comprising a first surface (2) for receiving a component to be crimped, a crimping element (4) for maintaining said component, and a lower body (16) comprising a second front surface (6), between which bodies (15; 16 ) a deformable zone (7) is plastically deformable under the action of an axial driving force greater than a predetermined driving force, to bring the kitten (1) into a constrained state in which the deformable zone (7) is irreversibly deformed and/or fractured, in the form of a bead radially pushing back a peripheral surface (3) of the kitten (1) towards a side wall of the housing (8), and/or in the form of a fault radially pushing back the body upper (15) towards this side wall.

Description

Technical field of the invention

The invention relates to a crimping bezel, comprising an upper body, extending around an axis defining a direction for driving said bezel into a housing of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking, and comprising a first surface arranged to receive a component to be crimped, at least one crimping element arranged to hold said component to be crimped, and, aligned with said upper body, a lower body comprising a second front surface.

The invention also relates to a crimping assembly comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces, which comprises at least one housing arranged for receiving such a crimping bezel.

The invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly with crimping of a crimp component arranged to cooperate with a bezel in a housing of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces.

[0004] The invention relates to the field of crimping inserts, in particular crimping components such as stones, pearls, cameos or the like, on pieces of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces.

Technology background

[0005] The crimping of inserts on a piece of jewelery or jewelry or watchmaking is a delicate operation, because the security of the maintenance of such an insert must be ensured in all circumstances, in particular during contact with the user's clothing, or with other objects or people. The market value of these reported items can indeed be very high, if they are precious stones or the like.

[0006] Modern pieces of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking often include structural elements such as cases, crystals, bracelet links, or the like, which are made of materials that do not exhibit plastic deformation, often hard and / or fragile, such as ceramic, silicon, sapphire, intermetallic alloys or composites with a metal, natural or polymer matrix.

[0007] Therefore, the use of an intermediate bezel between the structure and the decorative element is essential to allow the crimping of such decorative elements. Indeed, their welding on the structure is generally not possible, and their possible gluing directly on the structure does not present sufficient guarantees of resistance over time and in all circumstances of use.

[0008] The use of bezels made of elastic or shape-memory material is a solution that allows the bezel to be well maintained in its housing, but which is not very suitable for fixing very small decorative elements, and the installation is proves delicate, requiring more qualified personnel; the cost of such a kitten is, moreover, quite high, and the choice of an elastic material is difficult to reconcile with the deformation of crimping elements such as claws or grains, generally employed for maintaining the decorative element on the kitten. Moreover, such elastic kittens are not aesthetic.

[0009] It is therefore difficult to combine the imperatives of strength, cost, ease of installation, in particular when the piece of jewelry or jewelery or watchmaking is made from a hard substrate, which is difficult or not to be machined, and when the decorative element is of small dimensions.

Summary of the invention

The invention proposes to provide a simple and economical solution to the problem of crimping decorative elements on structural elements made of hard material.

[0011] To this end, the invention relates to a crimping bezel according to claim 1.

[0012] The invention also relates to a crimping assembly comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces, which comprises at least one housing arranged for the reception of such a crimping bezel.

The invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly with crimping of a crimping component arranged to cooperate with a bezel in a housing of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces.

Brief description of figures

[0014] The objects, advantages and characteristics of the invention will be presented in the detailed description which follows, with reference to the appended drawings where: - figure 1 represents, schematically and in perspective, a crimping kitten according invention, adapted to cooperate with a substantially cylindrical housing, in a particularly advantageous embodiment in which this bezel comprises, in the upper part, a substantially tubular upper body and comprising a bearing surface, here conical, for receiving a decorative element such as a stone, surrounded by crimping elements here in the form of crenellations constituting claws capable of being folded over this decorative element, and in the lower part a lower body consisting of a truncated cone foot, with two substantially radial blind holes crossing at the both the upper body and the foot; - Figure 2 is a side view, in the axis of one of the radial holes, of the kitten of Figure 1; - Figure 3 is a side view, at right angles to the radial bores, of the kitten of Figure 1; - Figure 4 is a top view of the kitten of Figure 1; - Figure 5 is a section through the axis of the bezel, in the position of Figure 2; - Figure 6 is a section through the axis of the bezel, in the position of Figure 3; a deformable zone is identified by a broken line at the intersection of the axial orifice and one of the radial bores; - Figures 7 to 9 are simple diagrams showing the kinematics of the progressive maintenance of the kitten in its housing: - Figure 7 is a section passing through the axis of the kitten, of a kitten according to the invention, also comprising a foot like the bezel of Figures 1 to 6, inserted in a housing of revolution and which has a slight undercut; at this stage the bezel has been driven to a resting position between the front surface of the foot and a flat face of the housing; the kitten is then ready to undergo an additional axial force, illustrated by a downward double axial arrow, to deform the lower part of the kitten and push it towards the lower wall of the housing, according to double radial arrows; – Figure 8 illustrates the continuation of the axial thrust force, beyond an effort predetermined by experience, and shows the fracture of the kitten between the foot and the upper body, the foot is already broken and separated from the upper body, and the foot (which is represented here for visibility with hatching different from those of the upper body) plays the role of a spacer, which imparts to the lower part of the upper body a radial force tending to push it towards the outside, that is to say towards the internal wall of the housing; - Figure 9 illustrates the end of the axial travel, when the lower part of the upper body can only form a bead pressed against the inner wall of the housing, and ensuring the axial retention of the bezel; - Figure 10 is a section passing through the axis of the bezel, representing, superimposed, a non-limiting sample of different variants of bezel according to the invention, with different shapes given to the upper body and to the lower body: - in the right part a variant with an internal thread in an axial orifice of the kitten allows the insertion of a threaded tool, not shown, with a thread of a diameter greater than that of this thread to deform the deformable zone, such a thread can also allow the insertion of a threaded plug shown here in the lower part to ensure the radial retention after deformation of the deformable zone; this same straight part represents the sharp-angled junction between a tapered foot and the upper body; – in the left part we can see successively, moving away from the axis: a variant with a blind axial hole in the chaton, another variant with an emerging axial hole, a variant with a recess in the lower body to transfer the frontal support towards the peripheral zone, a variant with a lower body in the form of a skirt with a hollow frustoconical inner surface, a variant with the outer profile of such a skirt set back from the upper body, and a variant with the profile exterior of this skirt substantially at the radial level of the upper body; - Figure 11 is a section passing through the axis of the kitten, of another variant of kitten according to the invention, the lower part of which forms a skirt comprising a female scalable surface widening towards its lower part, and which is arranged to cooperate with a male evolving surface that the housing includes, here in one-piece form; - Figure 12 is a variant of Figure 11, with a male intermediate component deposited beforehand in the bottom of the housing, to cooperate with the same evolving female surface of the bezel; – Figure 13 is a section passing through the axis of the bezel, of another variant of bezel according to the invention, in which a deformation tool deforms the deformable zone, shown in broken line between the foot and the upper body , and which is affected by the stroke of this deformation tool; - Figure 14 is a block diagram showing a crimping assembly comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelry or timepiece, which comprises at least one housing arranged for receiving such a crimping chaton, and a decorative element; – Figure 15 is a block diagram with the steps of a process for crimping such an assembly.

Detailed description of the invention

The invention relates to the crimping of decorative elements, in particular but not limited to stones, on a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking. The invention relates more particularly to the case of such pieces of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces, which comprise structural elements made of hard material, at the level of which a setting must be made. The manufacture of reception housings for decorative elements is sometimes very difficult to achieve, depending on the nature of the material concerned, and the method of manufacture of this structural element itself. For example, in a material such as a ceramic, or a sapphire, or the like, a housing with an undercut cannot be made, and a cylindrical housing is already considered a good result. The problem is amplified when both the decorative crimp element and the housing are very small. It should be noted that the use of a kitten is unavoidable in such cases.

[0016] The object of the invention is to reconcile the secure maintenance of the decorative element to be crimped in its bezel, and of the bezel in its housing, the correct geometrical positioning of the decorative element to be crimped and of its bezel relative to the housing, control of the cost of the components, the aesthetic appearance of the whole, and the performance of the operation of laying the bezel and crimping the decorative element by personnel of average qualification.

The invention proposes to produce a bezel of a particular shape, simple to machine, of very moderate cost, and of aesthetics similar to that of a standard bezel.

[0018] To this end, the invention relates to a crimping bezel 1, comprising an upper body 15, extending around an axis A defining a direction for driving said bezel 1 into a housing 8 of a piece of jewelery or jewelry or watchmaking 9. This upper body 15 comprises at least a first surface 2, which is arranged to receive at least one component to be crimped 10, and at least one crimping element 4 which is arranged to ensure the maintenance of this component to be crimped 10. This crimping element 4 can be a crimping claw, or the like. The kitten 1 further comprises, axially aligned with this upper body 15, a lower body 16 which comprises a second surface 6 front.

According to the invention, the bezel 1 comprises, at least between the upper body 15 and the lower body 16, at least one deformable zone 7, which is plastically deformable under the action of an at least axial force imparted to the kitten 1 in the driving direction, greater than a predetermined hunting effort, to bring kitten 1 into a constrained state.

In this constrained state, this at least one deformable zone 7 is irreversibly deformed and/or fractured, or else in the form of a bead pushing radially a peripheral surface 3 of the bezel 1 towards a side wall of the housing 8 during the application of this force, or/and in the form of a fault radially pushing back the upper body 15 towards such a side wall during the application of this force.

[0021] More particularly, the upper body 15 comprises such a peripheral surface 3, which is arranged for guiding and holding the bezel 1 in complementary cooperation with a housing 8 of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking 9 The figures illustrate the most common case where the housing 8 is a female element, for example a bore or a pocket, and where the kitten 1 is inserted into the housing 8; however, the invention is applicable to the opposite case, not illustrated by the figures, where the housing 8 is a male element, and where the bezel 1 caps this male element.

[0022] Thus the chaton 1 comprises this upper body 15, located on a first axial side (which is the one which will be visible to the user of the piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking 9), and which is extends around an axis A, which defines a direction of insertion and driving out of the bezel 1 in a housing 8. Its first surface 2 is arranged for the substantially frontal reception of at least one component to be crimped 10, and at least a crimping element 4 is located in the vicinity of the first surface 2, and is arranged to ensure the maintenance, in particular by crimping, of a component to be crimped 10. This crimping element 4 can be a crimping claw, or the like.

[0023] At least one lower body 16 is located on a second axial side opposite the first axial side. The embodiments illustrated, not limiting, comprise a single lower body 16, which proves to be sufficient to ensure a good fit of the bezel 1 and the decorative elements 10 that it carries.

[0024] More particularly, the second substantially frontal surface 6 constitutes an abutment surface which is arranged so that, at the end of the insertion stroke of the bezel 1 in or on a housing 8, cooperate in abutment support with a complementary abutment surface 96 that this housing 8 comprises, or with an intermediate component 191 inserted into this housing, as seen in the variant of Figure 12.

[0025] More particularly, the deformation of this at least one deformable zone 7 is carried out under the action of an at least axial force applied to the bezel 1 in the driving direction after the abutment cooperation between the second surface 6 substantially frontal and a complementary abutment surface 96. By “at least axial force” is meant either a purely axial force such as traditional driving in, or a force combining an axial movement and a rotational movement such as screwing.

[0026] More particularly, the at least one deformable zone 7 has a breaking strength, in the driving direction, which is lower than that presented by the bezel 1 in the vicinity of each at least one first surface 2, and at least a deformable zone 7 comprises, in the vicinity of the second surface 6, at least one neck with a section smaller than the smallest section of the kitten 1 in the vicinity of each first surface 2 of reception.

[0027] More particularly, and as visible in certain figures, the bezel 1 comprises an axial orifice 12 along the axis A. And, as visible in particular in FIGS. 1 and 6, at least one deformable zone 7 extends between this axial orifice 12 on the one hand, and a substantially radial orifice 13 and/or a recess on the other hand.

More particularly, the bezel 1 comprises at least one such substantially radial orifice 13, which is perpendicular or oblique with respect to the axis A, and at least one neck extends between the axial orifice 12 on the one hand , and the substantially radial orifice 13 on the other hand.

[0029] More particularly, the axial orifice 12 and at least one radial orifice 13 are secant.

More particularly, and as seen in particular in Figures 1 to 9, the bezel 1 comprises at least one lower body 16 which consists of a foot. This foot is connected to the upper body 15 by at least one deformable zone 7, which is more ductile and/or more fragile than the upper body 15, and which is arranged to bend or break during the application of a force at least axial greater than the predetermined driving force applied to the stud 1, and the deformation or breakage of which modifies the radial position of the upper body 15 and/or of at least one foot, to maintain the stud 1 in friction bearing with a housing 8.

[0031] Such a foot can easily be made by turning or the like, the cost of the bezel is thus controlled. A simple kerf or chamfer may suffice to define a weak or deformable zone. Such a foot makes it possible to impose the location of the friction surfaces between the kitten 1 and the housing 8.

[0032] More particularly, the peripheral surface 3 is located between the first axial side and the second axial side, and at least one such foot 16 is arranged in the vicinity of the second surface 6.

[0033] More particularly, the axial orifice 12 passes through the upper body 15, and at least partly the foot 16.

[0034] More particularly, at least one radial orifice 13 crosses at least partly the upper body 15, and at least partly the foot 16.

[0035] More particularly, the foot 16 joins the upper body 15 at the level of a secondary surface 17 where the section of the foot 16 is lower than the section of the foot 16 at the level of the second surface 6 which delimits it on the side opposite to the secondary surface 17.

[0036] The outfit is particularly good for a bezel 1 thus pierced along its axis, and which has a foot which fractures when it is driven out bearing on an opposing surface. This foot then rises in the hole 12 of the chaton 1, and compresses the chaton 1 in its housing 8. The decorative element 10 can then be crimped at any time.

More particularly, the foot 16 has a recess 160 in its axial part around the axis A.

More particularly, as seen in Figures 1 to 9, the foot 16 is of substantially frustoconical shape with its geometric tip directed towards the first axial side.

In a first variant, the foot 16 and the upper body 15 form a one-piece assembly.

In a second variant, the foot 16 is separate from the upper body 15 to which it is fixed.

[0041] More particularly, as visible in the right part of Figure 10, the bezel 1 comprises a thread 120 along the axis A, which is arranged to cooperate with a tool provided with a thread of diameter greater than that of the thread 120 to deform the deformable zone 7 and deform the foot 16 and bring at least one surface of the chaton 1 into cooperation in friction support with a housing 8.

[0042] More specifically, the bezel 1 comprises a removable cap 14, which is arranged to be driven out or screwed along the axis A to prevent the radial shrinkage of the foot 16 after the deformation of the deformable zone 7 and the cooperation of the bezel 1 in friction contact with housing 8.

[0043] More particularly, the upper body 15 comprises, on the side opposite the first axial side, a first lip 150 which is deformable during deformation of a deformable zone 7 with a first radial part 151 arranged to exert on the housing 8, in the constrained state of the kitten 1, a friction force greater than that exerted by the rest of the upper body 15 or by the foot 16. This first lip 150 can in particular be produced, in a variant not shown, in the form of just a skirt.

[0044] More particularly, the foot 16 comprises, on the second axial side, a second lip 160 which is deformable during deformation of a deformable zone 7 with a second radial part 161, visible in dotted lines on the left part of FIG. , arranged to exert on the housing 8, in the constrained state of the bezel 1, a friction force greater than that exerted by the upper body 15 or by the rest of the foot 16. This second lip 160 can in particular be produced, in a variant not shown, in the form of a simple skirt with an inner surface 166, shown in a particular variant in a double dashed line in the left part of FIG. 10 in the form of a female truncated cone. In a simply interrupted line variant of this same figure, the outer edge 160 of this skirt is, in the unconstrained free state, set back from the housing 8.

[0045] More particularly, as seen in Figure 11, the bezel 1 comprises, in the vicinity of the second surface 6, a female scalable surface 61 widening towards the second axial side, and which is arranged to cooperate with a surface scalable male 91 that includes a housing 8 for the application of a radial force on the female scalable surface during the application of a force at least axial greater than the predetermined driving force printed on the kitten 1. More particularly, the female scalable surface 61 and the male scalable surface 91 are spherical or ellipsoidal or paraboloidal cones or caps. Figure 12 illustrates a variant with an intermediate component 191 deposited beforehand in the bottom of the housing 8, to cooperate with the same evolving female surface 61 of the kitten 1.

[0046] More particularly, the bezel 1 comprises an axial orifice 12 along the axis A, and at least a first surface 2 comprises elementary reception surfaces, for the substantially frontal reception of at least one component to be crimped 10, which are all distributed around the axial orifice 12, and the peripheral surface 3 comprises elementary bearing surfaces which are all distributed around the axial orifice 12.

[0047] In a variant, at least one surface of the kitten 1, which is not in contact with the housing 8 during the first positioning drive, but which is pushed towards the wall of this housing 8 during the application of a force greater than a predetermined force, has a greater roughness than the rest of the bezel, and/or is covered with a friction coating arranged to improve the attachment of the bezel 1 in the housing as soon as it expands.

It is understood that the bezel 1 according to the invention is designed for the most delicate use case, in which the generatrices of the walls of the housing 8 are parallel to the direction of insertion. The holding of such a kitten is only better if the housing 8 has a slight undercut, as in the specific examples of Figures 7 to 9.

The figures illustrate common cases of housings which have a symmetry of revolution, the invention is entirely applicable to the production of shaped kittens, to cooperate with shaped housings, for example of elliptical section or contour polygonal, to receive stones according to the most diverse sizes: baguette, heart, cushion, emerald, diamond, marquise, oval, pear, princess, or others.

The cooperation between the deformable zones and the housing can either be exerted over the entire section of this housing, or else be confined to certain angular positions, just like crimping.

[0051] The invention also has the particular advantage of allowing the installation, on the same piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking, of decorative elements that are not perfectly calibrated or identical to each other, which is very often the case. when using precious stones, or pearls, for example.

[0052] This installation does not require a temperature rise phase or contact with chemicals such as glues, which may damage the decorative elements. The structure of the piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepiece is thus perfectly preserved.

The bezel according to the invention presents the view of the user a closed contour, which contributes to the good overall aesthetics of this part.

[0054] The bezel 1 may in particular be made of precious metal, in particular an alloy of gold, and/or silver, and/or platinum, titanium alloy, stainless steel, copper alloy, or even aluminum alloy.

The invention makes it possible to adapt well to a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking which is made of a hard substrate, such as a ceramic, such as a zirconia, sapphire, glass, or a cermet, metallic glass, amorphous material, or the like.

The invention also relates to a crimping assembly 100 comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces 9, which comprises at least one housing 8 arranged to receive such a bezel 1 for crimping. More particularly, this crimping assembly 100 comprises at least one crimping component 10 arranged to cooperate with such a kitten 1.

[0057] More particularly, at least one housing 8 comprises, substantially of revolution around a housing axis parallel to a direction of driving out kitten 1 in a housing 8, a complementary abutment surface 96, which is arranged to, when of the application of an at least axial force applied to a bead 1 in the driving direction, greater than a predetermined driving out force, exerting on a lower body 16 of this bead a force with a radial component to deform at least one zone deformable 7.

This crimping assembly 100 advantageously comprises a correspondence table, which defines the value of the predetermined driving force for each pair formed by, on the one hand, a housing 8 of a particular geometry in a piece of jewelry or jewelry or watchmaking 9 made of a particular material, and on the other hand and a chaton 1 of a particular geometry and made of a particular material. Each pair of housing and kitten advantageously defines a tightening value, or even play, a force value for the first part of the driving stroke during which the kitten does not undergo plastic deformation, and necessarily defines the value of the predetermined driving force beyond which the kitten 1 is plastically deformed during its frontal contact with the bottom of the housing 8, or with an intermediate element 191 inserted between the bottom of the housing 8 and the second surface 6 substantially frontal of the kitten 1. In a variant, this correspondence table also lists, for each pair of housing and kitten, the nature and the limiting dimensions of the decorative elements 10 that the kitten 1 can carry, and, if necessary, the maximum limit value of the thrust force applicable to such a decorative element 10 when it is put in place and crimped, or even when the bezel 1 is pushed into the housing 8 if the crimper performs this operation with the decorative element 10 interposed between the first surface 2 for receiving the bezel 1 and the driving tool, such as a crimping stem, an electric cylinder, or the like. The use of an electric actuator is advantageous due to the perfect control of low-intensity forces as applied in such crimping, and to differentiate the first drive-in with a force below the threshold of the predetermined force, from the continuation of driving in with an effort greater than the threshold of the predetermined effort, while respecting a maximum value of effort guaranteeing the integrity of the decorative element 10.

The invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly 100 with crimping of a component to be crimped 10 arranged to cooperate with a chaton 1 in a housing 8 of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking 9.

According to this method, in a first step 1000 of preparation, a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking 9 comprising at least one housing 8, a bezel 1 corresponding to this housing 8, is provided, a correspondence table defining the value of the predetermined driving force for the couple formed by this particular housing 8 and this particular bezel 1. In a variant of this first step 1000, an intermediate component 191 of particular shape is inserted into the bottom of the housing 8, before inserting the bezel 1 therein.

[0061] In a second step 2000 of driving in and positioning the bezel 1, the bezel 1 and the housing 8 are aligned in the driving direction, and an axial force less than the driving force is exerted on the bezel 1 predetermined, up to an axial position of abutment support in the housing or else up to a predetermined axial position.

In a third step 3000, an axial force is exerted on the kitten 1, or on a crimp component 10 which is positioned on a first surface 2 of the kitten 1, which is greater than this predetermined driving force, to deform or break at least one deformable zone 7, in a constrained state of the kitten 1 where its peripheral surface 3 exerts on the housing 8 a friction force greater than that which it exerts on it in the second step 2000 of driving in and putting in position of the bezel 1. It is understood that the application of such an axial force greater than this predetermined driving force can be done during the actual crimping operation, after positioning a component to be crimped 10 on a first surface 2 of the chaton 1, and during the application of a force on at least one crimping element 4, for example the folding down of a claw, to enclose a decorative element 10 such as a stone.

[0063] In a fourth step 4000, the outfit of the kitten 1 in its housing 8 is checked.

In a fifth step 5000, at least one crimp component 10 is positioned on a first surface 2 of the kitten 1, if it has not already been positioned during the third step 3000 above.

And, in a sixth step 6000, the crimping of this at least one component to be crimped 10 is carried out or completed with at least one crimping element 4.

[0066] More particularly, during the fourth step 4000 and after checking the fit of the bezel 1 in its housing 8, a removable element 14 is inserted into the bezel 1 to maintain the deformable zone in its deformed position.

[0067] Naturally, the first preparation step 1000 may include the production of at least one housing 8, in the event that such a housing could not be made during the production of the piece of jewelery or jewelery or clockwork 9, or else a resumption of this housing 8, in particular to produce a complementary abutment surface 96 according to a particular profile, for example a flat bottom, or even a male scalable surface 91, or other. This preparation of a housing 8 of the piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepiece 9 may also consist of the introduction of a shaped component comprising such a particular profile, for example a simple ball, or the like. For example, when the structure of the piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepiece 9 is made of ceramic, this profile can be a shape made directly in the ceramic.

In short, the invention makes it possible to produce a simple bezel, easy to machine, easy to drive out, and therefore economical both in manufacture and in installation.

Claims (21)

1. Crimping bezel (1), comprising an upper body (15), extending around an axis (A) defining a direction for driving said bezel (1) into a housing (8) of a piece of jewelery or jewelry or watchmaking (9), and comprising a first surface (2) arranged to receive a component to be crimped (10), at least one crimping element (4) arranged to hold said component to be crimped (10 ), and, aligned with said upper body (15), a lower body (16) comprising a second front surface (6), characterized in that said stud (1) comprises, at least between said upper body (15) and said lower body (16), at least one deformable zone (7) which is plastically deformable under the action of an at least axial force imparted to said stud (1) in said driving direction, greater than a predetermined driving force, for bringing said bead (1) into a constrained state in which said at least one deformable zone (7) is irreversibly deformed and/or fractured, in the form of a bead pushing radially a peripheral surface (3) of said bead (1) towards a side wall of said housing (8) when said force is applied, and/or in the form of a fault pushing said upper body (15) radially towards said side wall when said force is applied. 2. Crimping kitten (1) according to claim 1, characterized in that said second substantially frontal surface (6) constitutes an abutment surface arranged for, at the end of the insertion stroke of said kitten (1) in or on said housing (8), cooperating in abutment support with a complementary abutment surface (96) that a said housing (8) comprises. 3. Crimping stud (1) according to claim 2, characterized in that the deformation of said at least one deformable zone (7) is carried out under the action of an at least axial force imparted to said stud (1) according to said driving direction after the abutment cooperation between said second substantially frontal surface (6) and a said complementary abutment surface (96). 4. Crimping chaton (1) according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said at least one deformable zone (7) has a breaking strength, in said driving direction, which is lower than that which presents said kitten (1) in the vicinity of each said at least one first surface (2), and in that at least one said deformable zone (7) comprises, in the vicinity of said second surface (6), at least one neck of section lower than the smallest section of said kitten (1) in the vicinity of each said first surface (2) of reception. 5. Crimping stud (1) according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said stud (1) comprises an axial orifice (12) along said axis (A), and in that at least one said zone deformable (7) extends between said axial orifice (12) on the one hand, and a substantially radial orifice (13) or/and a recess on the other hand. 6. Crimping kitten (1) according to claims 4 and 5, characterized in that said kitten (1) comprises at least one substantially radial orifice (13) perpendicular or oblique with respect to said axis (A), and in that at at least one said neck extends between said axial orifice (12) on the one hand, and said substantially radial orifice (13) on the other hand. 7. Kitten (1) crimping according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that said axial orifice (12) and at least one said radial orifice (13) are secant. 8. Crimping kitten (1) according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said kitten (1) comprises at least one said lower body (16) consisting of a foot connected to said upper body (15) by at least one at least one said deformable zone (7) which is more ductile or more fragile than said upper body (15) and which is arranged to bend or break during the application of an at least axial force greater than said predetermined driving force imparted to said bezel (1), and the deformation or breakage of which modifies the radial position of said upper body (15) and/or of said at least one foot, to maintain said bezel (1) in friction bearing with said housing (8). 9. Kitten (1) crimping according to claims 5 and 8, characterized in that said axial orifice (12) passes through said upper body (15), and at least partly said foot (16). 10. Crimping kitten (1) according to claim 6 and according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that at least one said radial orifice (13) passes through at least partly said upper body (15), and at least partly said foot (16). 11. Crimping kitten (1) according to one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that said foot (16) joins said upper body (15) at a secondary surface (17) where the section of said foot ( 16) is less than the section of said foot (16) at the level of said second surface (6) which delimits it on the side opposite to said secondary surface (17). 12. Crimping chaton (1) according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that said foot (16) is of substantially frustoconical shape with its geometric point directed towards said first axial side. 13. Kitten (1) crimping according to one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that said foot (16) and said upper body (15) form a one-piece assembly. 14. Kitten (1) crimping according to one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that said foot (16) is separate from said upper body (15) to which it is fixed. 15. Crimping kitten (1) according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that said kitten (1) comprises, in the vicinity of said second surface (6), a female scalable surface (61) widening towards the bottom of said housing (8), and which is arranged to cooperate with a male evolving surface that said housing (8) comprises for the application of a radial force on said female evolving surface during the application of a force at least axial greater than said predetermined driving force printed on said kitten (1). 16. Crimping kitten (1) according to claim 15, characterized in that said female scalable surface and said male scalable surface are cones or spherical or ellipsoidal or paraboloidal caps. 17. Crimping assembly (100) comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking (9), which comprises at least one housing (8) arranged to receive a crimping bezel (1) according to one of claims 1 to 16. 18. A crimping assembly (100) according to claim 17, comprising at least one crimping component (10) arranged to cooperate with a said stud (1). 19. Crimping assembly (100) according to claim 17 or 18, characterized in that at least one said housing (8) comprises, substantially of revolution around a housing axis parallel to a said bezel driving direction (1 ) in a said housing (8), a said complementary abutment surface (96) arranged for, during the application of a said at least axial force imparted to a stud (1) in said driving direction, greater than a predetermined driving force, exerting on said lower body (16) of this bezel a force with a radial component to deform at least one said deformable zone (7). 20. Method for producing a decorative assembly (100) with crimping of a crimp component (10) arranged to cooperate with a bezel (1) in a housing (8) of a piece of jewelry or jewelry or clockwork (9), characterized in that, in a first step (1000), a piece of jewelery or jewelery or clockwork (9) is provided with a bezel (1) corresponding to a said housing (8), a correspondence table defining the value of said predetermined driving force for the pair formed by said particular housing (8) and said particular kitten (1), in a second step (2000) said kitten is aligned (1) and said housing (8) in said driving direction, and an axial force less than said predetermined driving force is exerted on said stud (1), up to an axial position of abutment support in said housing or else up to a predetermined axial position, in a third step (3000) one exerts on said kitten (1) or on a component to be crimped (10) which is positioned on a said first surface (2) of said kitten (1), an axial force greater than said predetermined driving force, to deform or break at least one said deformable zone (7), in a stressed state of said kitten (1) where its said peripheral surface (3) exerts on said housing (8) a force of friction greater than that which it exerts on it in said second step (2000) of driving said bezel (1) into position, in a fourth step (4000) the holding of said bezel (1) in its housing ( 8), in a fifth step (5000) at least one component to be crimped (10) is positioned on a said first surface (2) of said kitten (1) if it has not already been positioned during said third step ( 3000), and in a sixth step (6000) the crimping of said at least one component to be crimped (10) is carried out or completed with at least one said crimping element (4). 21. Method according to claim 20, characterized in that, during said fourth step (4000) and after checking the holding of said kitten (1) in its housing (8), a removable element is inserted into said kitten (1). (14) to maintain said deformable zone in its deformed position.