EP4190202A1 - Crimp-futter und crimpverfahren einer dekoranordnung - Google Patents

Crimp-futter und crimpverfahren einer dekoranordnung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4190202A1
EP4190202A1 EP21211740.2A EP21211740A EP4190202A1 EP 4190202 A1 EP4190202 A1 EP 4190202A1 EP 21211740 A EP21211740 A EP 21211740A EP 4190202 A1 EP4190202 A1 EP 4190202A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
crimping
housing
stud
kitten
bezel
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21211740.2A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Tamás SZÖKE
Stéphane Lauper
Lionel BLASER
Alexandre Netuschill
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Dress Your Body AG
Original Assignee
Dress Your Body AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dress Your Body AG filed Critical Dress Your Body AG
Priority to EP21211740.2A priority Critical patent/EP4190202A1/de
Priority to US17/974,001 priority patent/US20230165343A1/en
Priority to JP2022172163A priority patent/JP2023081839A/ja
Priority to CN202211528456.6A priority patent/CN116195823A/zh
Publication of EP4190202A1 publication Critical patent/EP4190202A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A44C17/0208—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations removable
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a crimping bezel, comprising an upper body, extending around an axis defining a direction for driving said bezel into a housing of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking, and comprising a first surface arranged to receive a component to be crimped, at least one crimping element arranged to hold said component to be crimped, and, aligned with said upper body, a lower body comprising a second front surface.
  • the invention also relates to a crimping assembly comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces, which comprises at least one housing arranged to receive such a crimping bezel.
  • the invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly with crimping of a component to be crimped arranged to cooperate with a bezel in a housing of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces.
  • the invention relates to the field of crimping added elements, in particular crimping components such as stones, pearls, cameos or the like, on pieces of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces.
  • Modern pieces of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking often include structural elements such as cases, crystals, bracelet links, or the like, which are made of materials that do not exhibit plastic deformation, often hard and/or fragile. , such as ceramics, silicon, sapphire, intermetallic alloys or composites with a metal, natural or polymer matrix.
  • bezels made of elastic or shape-memory material are a solution that allows the bezel to be well maintained in its housing, but which is not very suitable for fixing very small decorative elements, and the installation is tricky, requiring more qualified personnel; the cost of such a kitten is, moreover, quite high, and the choice of an elastic material is difficult to reconcile with the deformation of crimping elements such as claws or grains, generally employed for maintaining the decorative element on the kitten. Moreover, such elastic kittens are not aesthetic.
  • the invention proposes to provide a simple and economical solution to the problem of crimping decorative elements on structural elements made of hard material.
  • the invention relates to a crimping bezel according to claim 1.
  • the invention also relates to a crimping assembly comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces, which comprises at least one housing arranged to receive such a crimping bezel.
  • the invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly with crimping of a component to be crimped arranged to cooperate with a bezel in a housing of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces.
  • the invention relates to the crimping of decorative elements, in particular but not limited to stones, on a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces.
  • the invention relates more particularly to the case of such pieces of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces, which comprise structural elements made of hard material, at the level of which a setting must be made.
  • the manufacture of reception housings for decorative elements is sometimes very difficult to achieve, depending on the nature of the material concerned, and the method of manufacture of this structural element itself. For example, in a material such as a ceramic, or a sapphire, or the like, a housing with an undercut cannot be made, and a cylindrical housing is already considered a good result. The problem is amplified when both the decorative crimp element and the housing are very small. It should be noted that the use of a kitten is unavoidable in such cases.
  • the object of the invention is to reconcile the secure holding of the decorative element to be crimped in its bezel, and of the bezel in its housing, the correct geometrical positioning of the decorative element to be crimped and of its bezel relative to the housing, the control of the cost of the components, the aesthetic aspect of the assembly, and the carrying out of the operation of laying the bezel and crimping the decorative element by personnel of average qualification.
  • the invention proposes to produce a bezel of a particular shape, simple to machine, of very moderate cost, and of aesthetics similar to that of a standard bezel.
  • the invention relates to a crimping bezel 1, comprising an upper body 15, extending around an axis A defining a direction for driving said bezel 1 into a housing 8 of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or clockwork 9.
  • This upper body 15 comprises at least a first surface 2, which is arranged to receive at least one component to be crimped 10, and at least one crimping element 4 which is arranged to hold this component to be crimped 10.
  • This crimping element 4 can be a crimping claw, or the like.
  • the kitten 1 further comprises, axially aligned with this upper body 15, a lower body 16 which comprises a second surface 6 front.
  • the kitten 1 comprises, at least between the upper body 15 and the lower body 16, at least one deformable zone 7, which is plastically deformable under the action of an at least axial force applied to the kitten 1 according to the hunting direction, greater than a predetermined hunting effort, to bring the kitten 1 into a constrained state.
  • this at least one deformable zone 7 is irreversibly deformed and/or fractured, or else in the form of a bead radially pushing back a peripheral surface 3 of the kitten 1 towards a side wall of the housing 8 during the application of this force, and/or in the form of a fault pushing the upper body 15 radially towards such a side wall during the application of this force.
  • the upper body 15 comprises such a peripheral surface 3, which is arranged for guiding and holding the bezel 1 in complementary cooperation with a housing 8 of a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking 9.
  • the figures illustrate the most common case where the housing 8 is a female element, for example a bore or a pocket, and where the kitten 1 is inserted into the housing 8; however, the invention is applicable to the opposite case, not illustrated by the figures, where the housing 8 is a male element, and where the bezel 1 caps this male element.
  • the chaton 1 comprises this upper body 15, located on a first axial side (which is the one which will be visible to the user of the piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking 9), and which extends around an axis A, which defines a direction of insertion and driving out of the kitten 1 in a housing 8.
  • first surface 2 is arranged for the substantially frontal reception of at least one component to be crimped 10
  • at least one crimping element 4 is located in the vicinity of the first surface 2, and is arranged to ensure the maintenance, in particular by crimping, of a component to be crimped 10.
  • This crimping element 4 can be a crimping claw, or the like.
  • At least one lower body 16 is located on a second axial side opposite the first axial side.
  • the embodiments illustrated, not limiting, comprise a single lower body 16, which proves to be sufficient to ensure a good fit of the bezel 1 and the decorative elements 10 that it carries.
  • the second substantially frontal surface 6 constitutes an abutment surface which is arranged so that, at the end of the insertion stroke of the bezel 1 in or on a housing 8, cooperate in abutment support with a complementary abutment surface 96 that comprises this housing 8, or even with an intermediate component 191 inserted into this housing, as seen in the variant of the figure 12 .
  • this at least one deformable zone 7 is carried out under the action of an at least axial force applied to the bezel 1 in the driving direction after the abutment cooperation between the second surface 6 substantially frontal and a complementary abutment surface 96.
  • at least axial force is meant either a purely axial force such as traditional driving in, or a force combining an axial movement and a rotational movement such as screwing.
  • the at least one deformable zone 7 has a breaking strength, according to the driving direction, which is lower than that which the bezel 1 has in the vicinity of each at least one first surface 2, and at least one deformable zone 7 comprises, in the vicinity of the second surface 6, at least one neck of section smaller than the smallest section of the bezel 1 in the vicinity of each first surface 2 of reception.
  • the bezel 1 comprises an axial orifice 12 along the axis A. And, as visible especially on the figures 1 and 6 , at least one deformable zone 7 extends between this axial orifice 12 on the one hand, and a substantially radial orifice 13 and/or a recess on the other hand.
  • the kitten 1 comprises at least one such substantially radial orifice 13, which is perpendicular or oblique with respect to the axis A, and at least one neck extends between the axial orifice 12 on the one hand, and the substantially radial orifice 13 on the other hand.
  • the axial orifice 12 and at least one radial orifice 13 are secant.
  • the bezel 1 comprises at least one lower body 16 which consists of a foot.
  • This foot is connected to the upper body 15 by at least one deformable zone 7, which is more ductile and/or more fragile than the upper body 15, and which is arranged to bend or break during the application of a force at least axial greater than the predetermined driving force applied to the stud 1, and the deformation or breakage of which modifies the radial position of the upper body 15 and/or of at least one foot, to maintain the stud 1 in friction bearing with a housing 8.
  • peripheral surface 3 is located between the first axial side and the second axial side, and at least one such foot 16 is arranged in the vicinity of the second surface 6.
  • the axial orifice 12 crosses the upper body 15, and at least partly the foot 16.
  • At least one radial orifice 13 crosses at least partly the upper body 15, and at least partly the foot 16.
  • the foot 16 joins the upper body 15 at the level of a secondary surface 17 where the section of the foot 16 is lower than the section of the foot 16 at the level of the second surface 6 which delimits it on the side opposite to the secondary surface 17.
  • the holding is particularly good for a bezel 1 thus pierced along its axis, and which has a foot which fractures when it is pushed out in support on an opposing surface. This foot then rises in the hole 12 of the chaton 1, and compresses the chaton 1 in its housing 8.
  • the decorative element 10 can then be crimped at any time.
  • the foot 16 has a recess 160 in its axial part around the axis A.
  • the foot 16 is of substantially frustoconical shape with its geometric point directed towards the first axial side.
  • the foot 16 and the upper body 15 form a one-piece assembly.
  • the foot 16 is separate from the upper body 15 to which it is fixed.
  • the kitten 1 comprises a thread 120 along the axis A, which is arranged to cooperate with a tool provided with a thread of diameter greater than that of the thread 120 to deform the deformable zone 7 and deform the foot 16 and bring at least a surface of the kitten 1 in cooperation in friction support with a housing 8.
  • the bezel 1 includes a removable cap 14, which is arranged to be pushed out or screwed along the axis A to prevent the radial shrinkage of the foot 16 after the deformation of the deformable zone 7 and the cooperation of the bezel 1 in support of friction with housing 8.
  • the upper body 15 comprises, on the side opposite the first axial side, a first lip 150 which is deformable during deformation of a deformable zone 7 with a first radial part 151 arranged to exert on the housing 8, in the constrained state of the kitten 1, a friction force greater than that exerted by the rest of the upper body 15 or by the foot 16.
  • This first lip 150 can in particular be produced, in a variant not shown, in the form of a simple skirt .
  • the foot 16 comprises, on the second axial side, a second lip 160 which is deformable during a deformation of a deformable zone 7 with a second radial part 161, visible in dotted lines on the left part of the figure 10 , arranged to exert on the housing 8, in the constrained state of the bezel 1, a friction force greater than that exerted by the upper body 15 or by the rest of the foot 16.
  • This second lip 160 can in particular be produced, in a variant not shown, in the form of a simple skirt with an inner surface 166, shown in a particular variant in a double dashed line in the left part of the figure 10 in the form of a female truncated cone. In a simply interrupted line variant of this same figure, the outer edge 160 of this skirt is, in the unconstrained free state, set back from the housing 8.
  • the bezel 1 comprises, in the vicinity of the second surface 6, a female scalable surface 61 widening towards the second axial side, and which is arranged to cooperate with a male scalable surface 91 that includes a housing 8 for the application of a radial force on the female scalable surface during the application of an at least axial force greater than the predetermined driving force applied to the kitten 1.
  • the female scalable surface 61 and the male scalable surface 91 are cones or spherical or ellipsoidal or paraboloidal caps.
  • FIG 12 illustrates a variant with an intermediate component 191 previously deposited in the bottom of the housing 8, to cooperate with the same female evolutive surface 61 of the kitten 1.
  • the bezel 1 comprises an axial orifice 12 along the axis A, and at least a first surface 2 comprises elementary reception surfaces, for the substantially frontal reception of at least one component to be crimped 10, which are all distributed around the axial orifice 12, and the peripheral surface 3 comprises elementary bearing surfaces which are all distributed around the axial orifice 12.
  • At least one surface of the kitten 1, which is not in contact with the housing 8 during the first positioning drive, but which is pushed towards the wall of this housing 8 during the application of a force greater than a predetermined force, has a greater roughness than the rest of the bezel, and/or is covered with a friction coating arranged to improve the attachment of the bezel 1 in the housing as soon as it expands.
  • the bezel 1 according to the invention is designed for the most delicate use case, in which the generatrices of the walls of the housing 8 are parallel to the direction of insertion.
  • the holding of such a bezel is only better if the housing 8 has a slight undercut, as on the particular examples of the figures 7 to 9 .
  • FIG. 1 The figures illustrate common cases of housings which have a symmetry of revolution, the invention is entirely applicable to the production of shaped kittens, to cooperate with shaped housings, for example of elliptical section or with polygonal contour, for receive stones according to the most diverse sizes: baguette, heart, cushion, emerald, diamond, marquise, oval, pear, princess, or others.
  • the cooperation between the deformable zones and the housing can either be exerted over the entire section of this housing, or else be confined to certain angular positions, just like crimping.
  • the invention also has the particular advantage of allowing the installation, on the same piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepieces, of decorative elements that are not perfectly calibrated or identical to each other, which is very often the case during the use of precious stones, or pearls, for example.
  • the bezel according to the invention presents a closed contour to the view of the user, which contributes to the good overall aesthetics of this piece.
  • the chaton 1 can in particular be made of precious metal, in particular an alloy of gold, and/or silver, and/or platinum, titanium alloy, stainless steel, copper alloy, or even an alloy of aluminum.
  • the invention makes it possible to adapt well to a piece of jewelery or jewelery or watchmaking which is produced in a hard substrate, such as a ceramic, such as a zirconia, sapphire, glass, or a cermet, metallic glass, amorphous material, or other.
  • a hard substrate such as a ceramic, such as a zirconia, sapphire, glass, or a cermet, metallic glass, amorphous material, or other.
  • the invention also relates to a crimping assembly 100 comprising a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepiece 9, which comprises at least one housing 8 arranged to receive such a crimping bezel 1. More particularly, this crimping assembly 100 comprises at least one crimping component 10 arranged to cooperate with such a kitten 1.
  • At least one housing 8 comprises, substantially of revolution around a housing axis parallel to a direction of driving of bezel 1 into a housing 8, an abutment surface complementary 96, which is arranged so that, during the application of an at least axial force imparted to a bezel 1 in the driving direction, greater than a predetermined driving force, to exert on a lower body 16 of this bezel a force with a radial component to deform at least one deformable zone 7.
  • This crimping assembly 100 advantageously includes a correspondence table, which defines the value of the predetermined driving force for each pair formed by, on the one hand, a housing 8 of a particular geometry in a piece of jewelery or jewelery or clockwork 9 made of a particular material, and on the other hand and a chaton 1 of a particular geometry and made of a particular material.
  • Each pair of housing and kitten advantageously defines a tightening value, or even play, a force value for the first part of the driving stroke during which the kitten does not undergo plastic deformation, and necessarily defines the value of the predetermined driving force beyond which the kitten 1 is plastically deformed during its frontal contact with the bottom of the housing 8, or with an intermediate element 191 inserted between the bottom of the housing 8 and the second surface 6 substantially frontal of the kitten 1.
  • this correspondence table also lists, for each pair of housing and kitten, the nature and the limiting dimensions of the decorative elements 10 that the kitten 1 can carry, and, if necessary, the maximum limit value of the thrust force applicable to such a decorative element 10 when it is put in place and crimped, or even when the bezel 1 is pushed into the housing 8 if the crimper performs this operation with the decorative element 10 interposed between the first surface 2 for receiving the bezel 1 and the driving tool, such as a crimping stem, an electric cylinder, or the like.
  • the driving tool such as a crimping stem, an electric cylinder, or the like.
  • an electric actuator is advantageous due to the perfect control of low-intensity forces as applied in such crimping, and to differentiate the first drive-in with a force below the threshold of the predetermined force, from the continued hunting with effort greater than the threshold of the predetermined effort, while respecting a maximum value of effort guaranteeing the integrity of the decorative element 10.
  • the invention also relates to a method for producing a decorative assembly 100 with crimping of a component to be crimped 10 arranged to cooperate with a bezel 1 in a housing 8 of a piece of jewelry or jewelery or timepiece 9.
  • a piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepiece 9 comprising at least one housing 8, a bezel 1 corresponding to this housing 8, a correspondence table defining the value of the predetermined driving force for the couple formed by this particular housing 8 and this particular bezel 1.
  • an intermediate component 191 of particular shape is inserted into the bottom of the housing 8, before inserting the bezel 1 therein.
  • a second step 2000 of driving in and positioning the kitten 1 the kitten 1 and the housing 8 are aligned in the direction of driving out, and an axial force less than the predetermined driving force is exerted on the kitten 1, until 'to an axial position of abutment support in the housing or to a predetermined axial position.
  • a third step 3000 an axial force is exerted on the stud 1, or else on a component to be crimped 10 which is positioned on a first surface 2 of the stud 1, which is greater than this predetermined driving force, to deform or break at least one deformable zone 7, in a constrained state of the kitten 1 where its peripheral surface 3 exerts on the housing 8 a greater frictional force than that which it exerts on it in the second step 2000 of driving in and positioning the kitten 1.
  • a fourth step 4000 the outfit of the kitten 1 in its housing 8 is checked.
  • a fifth step 5000 at least one component to be crimped 10 is positioned on a first surface 2 of the kitten 1, if it has not already been positioned during the third step 3000 above.
  • a sixth step 6000 the crimping of this at least one component to be crimped 10 is carried out or completed with at least one crimping element 4.
  • a removable element 14 is inserted into the bezel 1 to maintain the deformable zone in its deformed position.
  • the first preparation step 1000 may include the production of at least one housing 8, in the case where such a housing could not be made during the production of the piece of jewelry or jewelry or clockwork 9, or else a reworking of this housing 8, in particular to produce a complementary abutment surface 96 according to a particular profile, for example a flat bottom, or even a male scalable surface 91, or other.
  • This preparation of a housing 8 of the piece of jewelery or jewelery or timepiece 9 may also consist of the introduction of a shaped component comprising such a particular profile, for example a simple ball, or the like.
  • this profile can be a shape made directly in the ceramic.
  • the invention makes it possible to produce a simple bezel, easy to machine, easy to drive out, and therefore economical both in manufacture and in installation.

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EP21211740.2A 2021-12-01 2021-12-01 Crimp-futter und crimpverfahren einer dekoranordnung Pending EP4190202A1 (de)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21211740.2A EP4190202A1 (de) 2021-12-01 2021-12-01 Crimp-futter und crimpverfahren einer dekoranordnung
US17/974,001 US20230165343A1 (en) 2021-12-01 2022-10-26 Setting and method for setting a decorative assembly
JP2022172163A JP2023081839A (ja) 2021-12-01 2022-10-27 装飾アセンブリをセットするためのセットおよび方法
CN202211528456.6A CN116195823A (zh) 2021-12-01 2022-12-01 镶嵌件和用于镶嵌装饰性组件的方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21211740.2A EP4190202A1 (de) 2021-12-01 2021-12-01 Crimp-futter und crimpverfahren einer dekoranordnung

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4190202A1 true EP4190202A1 (de) 2023-06-07

Family

ID=78820428

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP21211740.2A Pending EP4190202A1 (de) 2021-12-01 2021-12-01 Crimp-futter und crimpverfahren einer dekoranordnung

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20230165343A1 (de)
EP (1) EP4190202A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2023081839A (de)
CN (1) CN116195823A (de)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2004337354A (ja) * 2003-05-15 2004-12-02 Morito Co Ltd 装飾具及びその固定方法
JP2005288071A (ja) * 2004-03-31 2005-10-20 Beakooru Japan Kk 貴石の取付構造並びに取付方法
US20150121959A1 (en) * 2012-05-02 2015-05-07 Grand Rainbow International Limited a corporation Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2004337354A (ja) * 2003-05-15 2004-12-02 Morito Co Ltd 装飾具及びその固定方法
JP2005288071A (ja) * 2004-03-31 2005-10-20 Beakooru Japan Kk 貴石の取付構造並びに取付方法
US20150121959A1 (en) * 2012-05-02 2015-05-07 Grand Rainbow International Limited a corporation Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN116195823A (zh) 2023-06-02
JP2023081839A (ja) 2023-06-13
US20230165343A1 (en) 2023-06-01

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