EP3768110B1 - Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift - Google Patents

Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3768110B1
EP3768110B1 EP19712984.4A EP19712984A EP3768110B1 EP 3768110 B1 EP3768110 B1 EP 3768110B1 EP 19712984 A EP19712984 A EP 19712984A EP 3768110 B1 EP3768110 B1 EP 3768110B1
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Prior art keywords
stone
piece
claws
axis
girdle
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EP19712984.4A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP3768110A1 (de
Inventor
Philippe Vitau
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Hamard Vitau
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Hamard Vitau
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a piece of jewelry comprising stones, in particular diamonds, round and in particular circular.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, with a view to its integration into the piece of jewelry.
  • the present invention also relates to a mounting pin for supporting a stone of the piece of jewelry.
  • the pieces of jewelry covered by the invention may be rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces or parts of necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, buttons, etc., or even objects other than intended for adornment of the body, in other words any object adorned with precious or semi-precious stones, in particular diamonds.
  • the round shape in particular circular, should be understood in the broad sense, this shape being able to be produced approximately by multiple planar polygons. Said round shape is understood as opposed to a “square”, “rectangular” shape or any other geometry with sides whose presence is dominant for the overall visual effect.
  • the object of the invention is to allow concealment of the setting for a piece of jewelery comprising round stones, typically a carpet of round stones.
  • the cylinder head has a relatively open apex angle dictated by the search for optimal refraction of light. Thanks to the facet whose slope is steeper, the attack of a machining tool is facilitated. In addition, a shallower groove is sufficient to provide the claw of the mount with a grip to securely hold the stone. The at least three claws provided make it possible to positively position the stone independently of the neighboring stones.
  • the sheet is generally cylindrical in shape.
  • a cylindrical shaped lamination is favorable to the bevel facet cut.
  • each facet in each facet the associated groove is open at its two ends through a respective side edge of the facet.
  • This configuration of the facet allows a perfect cleaning of the groove after its machining. This is important for the purity of the effects bright in the piece of jewelry.
  • the groove may have a substantially constant profile over its entire length, from one open end to the other.
  • the bottom of the groove extends in a straight longitudinal direction, in particular parallel to the plane of the facet. This embodiment is simple and effective to allow a good grip of the claw in the groove.
  • the groove is formed in a plane perpendicular to the axis. It may for example be sawing performed in said plane.
  • the bottom of the groove is typically a surface parallel to the axis. This is obtained for example with sawing in a plane perpendicular to the axis as mentioned above.
  • the stone has four facets and four grooves.
  • the angle between the axis and a facet median situated in an axial plane is of the order of 40°. This is approximately 10° less than the half angle at the top of the yoke of a conventional round diamond.
  • the facets leave the lamination intact on the periphery of the upper face. In this way, the existence of the facets has no effect on the appearance of the stone after it has been mounted in the piece of jewelry.
  • the facets locally reduce the height of the lamination to a non-zero value. This is favorable for a stable point of contact between adjacent stones.
  • the facets are grouped together in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V relative to each other, the pairs being spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.
  • the setting comprises for each pair of facets two aforementioned claws having a common foot, separated from the foot of the at least one other pair of claws.
  • the setting comprises for each facet a claw connected to the base independently of the other claws.
  • the frame comprises a plate and, for each aforementioned stone, a spike bearing the claws associated with this stone.
  • the pin comprises snap-fastening means in a respective recess in the plate.
  • the claws associated with the same stone are elastically flexible in the direction of mutual spacing to receive the stone by snap-fastening the stone between the associated claws. This facilitates the assembly operations of the piece of jewelry.
  • the stones are mounted with contact or quasi-contact between the sheets of neighboring stones. This is how the setting is best concealed on the assembled piece of jewelry.
  • the stones being round, they are not in mutual contact on all their circumference but only in certain points of contact or quasi-contact.
  • the claws are located below these points of contact or quasi-contact between laminations, rather than below zones where the neighboring stones leave a space between them.
  • the facet cutting operation remains below an upper limit of the lamination, so as not to affect the appearance of the stone as seen on the finished piece of jewelry.
  • the periphery of the stone is recut so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and jointly reveal or enlarge an axial height of the lamination. This facilitates the realization of the facets and makes it possible to give them a steeper slope which will facilitate the machining of the groove.
  • the grooves are formed by sawing, in particular in a plane perpendicular to the axis.
  • the sawing is deep enough for the groove to have an undercut retaining face along its edge opposite the lamination.
  • the barb comprises an even number of claws, grouped together in pairs of neighboring claws, the pairs being regularly distributed around the axis.
  • the two claws of the same pair are connected to the base by a common foot, distinct from the foot of at least one other pair.
  • the piece of jewelry comprises several stones 1, in particular diamonds, which have in top view ( Figure 2 ) a round shape, in particular circular.
  • Each stone 1 comprises a visible face 2 and a yoke 3 separated from the visible face by a sheet 4 which forms the periphery of the stone and defines its diameter which is typically a few mm, for example here 4.7 mm.
  • the sheet here is cylindrical in shape.
  • the cylinder head 3 is generally conical in shape along an axis 6 which constitutes the axis of the stone and in particular the axis of the sheet 4 and the axis of the visible face 2.
  • the general conical shape is here defined by multiple polygons (triangles) planes, in a classic jewelry fashion.
  • the stones 1 are adjacent to each other and in particular are in contact or quasi-contact with each other by their laminations 4, in bridges of contact or quasi-contact 7.
  • the piece of jewelry further comprises a mount 8 essentially located on the side of the cylinder head 3 of the stones and comprising claws 9 to support the stones.
  • the claws 9 belong to pins 27 each assigned to a respective one of the stones, and which each carry four claws 9.
  • the frame 8 further comprises an underlying plate 26, in which the pins 27 are fixed, d in a manner which will be described in detail later.
  • Laminate 4 has a certain height measured parallel to the axis, the average value of which is denoted by h ( Figure 4 ), the precise height fluctuating along the periphery of the rounded fact created by the intersection of the cylinder of the sheet with the planes of the polygons defining the conical shape and other planar faces present on the periphery of the visible face 2 of the stone.
  • the stone further comprises, for each claw, a facet 13 which overlaps the lamination 4 and the yoke 3 locally forming a bevel between the yoke 3 and the lamination 4.
  • Each facet 13 encroaches on the lamination 4 and locally reduces the axial height of sheet 4 with respect to the value h. However, said axial height is not canceled, the facets 13 leave the lamination intact on the periphery of the upper face 2.
  • the presence of the facets 13 is not directly perceptible when the visible face 2 is observed along the axis 6 .
  • Each facet 13 is hollowed out with a groove 14 extending transversely relative to the axis 6 and receiving a spout 16 ( Figure 1 ) of a respective one of said claws 9.
  • each groove 14 has a longitudinal direction 17 (see Figure 6 for one of the grooves) perpendicular to axis 6.
  • each facet 13 the associated groove 14 is open at its two ends 18 through a respective side edge 19 of the facet.
  • the bottom of the groove 14 extends in a straight longitudinal direction, preferably parallel to the plane of the corresponding facet 13.
  • each groove 14 is formed in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to the axis 6. In the example shown, this plane is the same for all the grooves 14 of the stone.
  • the bottom 22 ( Figure 5 ) of the groove is a surface parallel to the axis 6.
  • this bottom surface then is flat.
  • the depicted realization of the stone has four facets 13 and four grooves 14.
  • the angle A ( Figure 5 ) between the axis 6 and a median 23 ( Figure 3 and 5 ) of facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40°, i.e. approximately 10° less than the half-angle at the vertex B of the cone formed by the yoke 3.
  • the facets 13 are grouped together in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V with respect to each other.
  • the pairs are spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.
  • a pair is designated by the reference 24 at the Figure 6 .
  • the grooves 14 of two facets of the same pair 24 communicate with each other via a common end 18.
  • each pin 27 comprises for each facet 13 a claw 9 connected to a base 28 of the pin, by which the pin is fixed to the plate 26.
  • each claw 9 is fixed to the base 28 independently of the other claws 9 of the pin.
  • the pin For its attachment to the plate 26, the pin comprises, in the embodiment shown, latching means 29 in a respective recess 31 of the plate 26.
  • latching means 29 are two opposite latching hooks which are snap below two opposite edges of the recess 31 made in the form of a rectangular window.
  • the recess 31 has a shape (here rectangular) which only admits, for the orientation of the pin 27 around its axis, a number (here 2) of orientations at most equal to the order of symmetry of the pin 27 and of the stone 1 around the axis 6. This is one possible way, among other things, so that all the pins 27 and all the stones are oriented in the same way around their respective axis in the piece of jewelery (See Figure 2 where the orientation pimples and stones is visible from the position of the claws visible in dotted lines).
  • the claws 9 associated with the same stone, therefore here belonging to the same pin 27, are elastically flexible in the direction of the mutual spacing to receive the stone 1 by snap-fastening the stone between the associated claws 9.
  • the claws are located as much as possible below the points of contact or quasi-contact 7 between layers 4, as visible in Figure 2 . This can be obtained by limiting the number of orientations permitted for pins 27 with respect to plate 26 as described above.
  • the embodiment of the Picture 11 typically concerns smaller stones, for example a diameter of 2.5mm.
  • the frame comprises two aforementioned claws 9 having a common foot 32, separated from the foot 32 of the at least one other pair of claws 9.
  • the pin 127 has legs 109 starting from the base 28, to laterally retain the stone 1.
  • the legs 109 are distinguished from the claws 9 in particular in that they have no beak 16
  • the tabs 109 are separated from the claws 9 by slots 111 which allow the claws 9 to flex independently of the tabs 109.
  • the tabs 109 are only connected to the claws by the base 28 of the barb 127 in this embodiment.
  • the tabs 109 are replaced on the pin 227 by arches 209 which connect the claws in one piece 9 successive belonging to different pairs.
  • the hoops 209 extend circumferentially at a certain distance from the base 28 and serve as the legs 109 for the lateral retention of the stone mounted on the spike.
  • the grooves 14 can be machined by sawing, in particular in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to axis 6.
  • the sawing or other machining is deep enough for the groove to have a retaining face 20 ( Figure 5 ) undercut along its opposite edge to foliation 4.
  • a dashed line 33 at the Figure 4 before cutting the facets 13 in a stone initially cut in a conventional manner, for example as received from a supplier, it may be advantageous to recut the periphery of the stone along the chain line 33 so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and jointly reveal or enlarge the axial height of the laminate.
  • This facilitates the creation of the facets 13 according to the invention and/or makes it possible to further reduce their angle A ( Figure 5 ).
  • This facilitates the machining of the grooves 14 and reduces the depth to be given to them so that their edge opposite the visible surface forms an undercut giving grip to the claws 9. Shallower grooves are less likely to disturb the play of light in the stone.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)

Claims (19)

  1. Schmuckstück, das das Folgende aufweist:
    ▪ zumindest einen Stein (1), insbesondere einen Diamanten, mit einer Sichtfläche (2), die eine allgemeine runde Form hat, und einem Pavillon (3) in allgemeiner Form eines Kegels, der eine Achse (6) hat und von der Sichtfläche (2) durch eine umlaufende Rundiste (4) getrennt ist, und
    ▪ eine Fassung (8), die sich im Wesentlichen auf der Seite des Pavillons (3) befindet und Krappen (9) zum Halten des Steins (1) aufweist,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass:
    ▪ die Rundiste (4) eine bestimmte Höhe (h), parallel zur Achse (6) gemessen, aufweist;
    ▪ der Stein (1) zumindest drei Facetten (13) aufweist, die die Rundiste (4) und den Pavillon (3) überlappen und dabei örtlich eine Abschrägung zwischen dem Pavillon (3) und der Rundiste (4) bilden; und
    ▪ in jede Facette (13) eine Nut (14) eingebracht ist, die sich quer zur Achse (6) erstreckt und eine Nase (16) einer der Krappen (9) aufnimmt.
  2. Schmuckstück nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Rundiste (4) eine allgemeine zylindrische Form hat.
  3. Schmuckstück nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in jeder Facette (13) die zugehörige Nut (14) an ihren beiden Enden (18) durch eine jeweilige Seitenkante (19) der Facette (13) hindurch offen ist, wobei der Nutgrund (22) der Nut (14) vorzugsweise geradlinig ist.
  4. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Stein (1) vier Facetten (13) und vier Nuten (14) aufweist.
  5. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Winkel (A) zwischen der Achse (6) und einer in einer axialen Ebene liegenden Seitenhalbierenden (23) einer Facette (13) in der Größenordnung von 40° liegt.
  6. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Facetten (13) die Rundiste (4) am Umfang der Oberseite (2) intakt lassen und dass vorzugsweise die Facetten (13) die axiale Höhe der Rundiste (4) auf einen Wert ungleich Null örtlich reduzieren.
  7. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Facetten (13) in Paaren (24) benachbarter Facetten zusammengefasst sind, die V-förmig zueinander angeordnet sind, wobei die Paare voneinander beabstandet und vorzugsweise gleichmäßig um die Achse (6) verteilt sind.
  8. Schmuckstück nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fassung (8) für jedes Facettenpaar (24) zwei der genannten Krappen (9) mit einem gemeinsamen Fuß (32) aufweist, der vom Fuß des zumindest einen weiteren Krappenpaares getrennt ist.
  9. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fassung (8) eine Platte (26) und für jeden genannten Stein einen Stift (27) aufweist, der die diesem Stein (1) zugeordneten Krappen (9) trägt.
  10. Schmuckstück nach Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Stift (27) Mittel (29) zum Einrasten in einer jeweiligen Ausnehmung (31) der Platte (26) aufweist.
  11. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die demselben Stein (1) zugeordneten Krappen (9) in Richtung des gegenseitigen Entfernens elastisch biegsam sind, um den Stein durch Einrasten zwischen den zugeordneten Krappen (9) aufzunehmen.
  12. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der zumindest eine Stein (1) mehrere Steine aufweist, die unter Berührung oder Quasi-Berührung (7) der Rundisten (4) der benachbarten Steine miteinander montiert sind.
  13. Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fassung zumindest in einigen Zwischenräumen zwischen aufeinanderfolgenden Krappen (9), die demselben Stein zugeordnet sind, Mittel zum seitlichen Halten für den Stein aufweist, insbesondere in jedem solchen Zwischenraum eine Lasche (109) zum Halten des Steins (1) oder einen sich in Umfangrichtung erstreckenden Bogen (209) zum Halten des Steins (1).
  14. Verfahren zum Schleifen eines Steins (1), insbesondere eines Diamanten, zur Herstellung eines Schmuckstücks nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13, wobei der Stein eine Sichtfläche (2) mit im Allgemeinen runder Form und einen Pavillon (3) in allgemeiner Form eines Kegels mit einer Achse (6) aufweist, wobei der Pavillon von der Sichtfläche (2) durch eine umlaufende Rundiste (4) getrennt ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass
    ▪ in den Stein zumindest drei Facetten (13) geschliffen werden, welche die Rundiste (4) und den Pavillon (3) überlappen, wobei eine Abschrägung zwischen Pavillon (3) und Rundiste (4) örtlich gebildet wird; und
    ▪ in jede Facette (13) eine Nut (14) eingebracht wird, die sich quer zur Achse erstreckt.
  15. Verfahren nach Anspruch 14, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass vor dem Schleifen der Facetten (13) der Stein umfänglich nachgeschliffen wird, um seine Abmessung senkrecht zur Achse (6) auf seinem gesamten Umfang zu verringern und dabei eine axiale Höhe (h) der Rundiste (4) erscheinen zu lassen bzw. zu vergrößern.
  16. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 14 oder 15, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Nuten (14) durch Sägen gebildet werden, wobei das Sägen insbesondere tief genug erfolgt, damit die Nut (14) entlang ihrer der Rundiste (4) gegenüberliegenden Kante eine hinterschnittene Haltefläche (20) aufweist.
  17. Fassungsstift für ein Schmuckstück nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13 oder für ein Schmuckstück, das mit dem Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 14 bis 16 erhalten wird, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass er das Folgende enthält:
    ▪ eine gemeinsame Basis (28), die mit Mitteln (29) zum Einrasten in eine Platte (26) ausgestattet ist; und
    ▪ zumindest drei um eine Achse (6) verteilte Krappen (9), die jeweils eine zur Achse (6) hin gerichtete Rastnase (16) aufweisen und sich durch elastisches Biegen voneinander entfernen können.
  18. Fassungsstift nach Anspruch 17, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass eine gerade Anzahl von Krappen (9) vorhanden ist, die in Paaren (24) von benachbarten Krappen zusammengefasst sind, wobei die Paare gleichmäßig um die Achse (6) verteilt sind, wobei vorzugsweise die beiden Krappen desselben Paares durch einen gemeinsamen Fuß (32), der sich vom Fuß des zumindest einen weiteren Paares unterscheidet, mit der Basis verbunden sind.
  19. Fassungsstift nach einem der Ansprüche 17 oder 18, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass er in zumindest einigen der Zwischenräume zwischen aufeinanderfolgenden Krappen (9), die insbesondere zu zwei verschiedenen Paaren gehören, ein Mittel zum seitlichen Halten des Steins aufweist, insbesondere eine sich von der Basis (28) weg erstreckende Lasche (109) oder einen sich in Umfangrichtung erstreckenden Bogen (209), der die genannten aufeinanderfolgenden Krappen (9) verbindet.
EP19712984.4A 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift Active EP3768110B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1852419A FR3079116B1 (fr) 2018-03-21 2018-03-21 Piece de joaillerie, procede pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, et picot de monture associe.
PCT/EP2019/057039 WO2019180116A1 (fr) 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Piece de joaillerie, procede pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, et picot de monture associe

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3768110A1 EP3768110A1 (de) 2021-01-27
EP3768110B1 true EP3768110B1 (de) 2022-05-04

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EP19712984.4A Active EP3768110B1 (de) 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Schmuckstück, verfahren zum schleifen eines edelsteins, insbesondere eines diamanten, und zugehöriger befestigungsstift

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US11357296B2 (de)
EP (1) EP3768110B1 (de)
CN (1) CN112188848B (de)
FR (1) FR3079116B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2019180116A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH718254A1 (fr) * 2021-01-15 2022-07-15 Geesco Assemblage par sertissage d'une pierre précieuse ou semi-précieuse sur un support de sertissage.

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3079116B1 (fr) 2020-03-20
FR3079116A1 (fr) 2019-09-27
WO2019180116A1 (fr) 2019-09-26
CN112188848B (zh) 2022-10-21
US20210022460A1 (en) 2021-01-28
US11357296B2 (en) 2022-06-14
EP3768110A1 (de) 2021-01-27
CN112188848A (zh) 2021-01-05

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