EP3768110B1 - Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin - Google Patents

Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3768110B1
EP3768110B1 EP19712984.4A EP19712984A EP3768110B1 EP 3768110 B1 EP3768110 B1 EP 3768110B1 EP 19712984 A EP19712984 A EP 19712984A EP 3768110 B1 EP3768110 B1 EP 3768110B1
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European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
piece
claws
axis
girdle
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EP19712984.4A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP3768110A1 (en
Inventor
Philippe Vitau
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Hamard Vitau
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Hamard Vitau
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a piece of jewelry comprising stones, in particular diamonds, round and in particular circular.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, with a view to its integration into the piece of jewelry.
  • the present invention also relates to a mounting pin for supporting a stone of the piece of jewelry.
  • the pieces of jewelry covered by the invention may be rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces or parts of necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, buttons, etc., or even objects other than intended for adornment of the body, in other words any object adorned with precious or semi-precious stones, in particular diamonds.
  • the round shape in particular circular, should be understood in the broad sense, this shape being able to be produced approximately by multiple planar polygons. Said round shape is understood as opposed to a “square”, “rectangular” shape or any other geometry with sides whose presence is dominant for the overall visual effect.
  • the object of the invention is to allow concealment of the setting for a piece of jewelery comprising round stones, typically a carpet of round stones.
  • the cylinder head has a relatively open apex angle dictated by the search for optimal refraction of light. Thanks to the facet whose slope is steeper, the attack of a machining tool is facilitated. In addition, a shallower groove is sufficient to provide the claw of the mount with a grip to securely hold the stone. The at least three claws provided make it possible to positively position the stone independently of the neighboring stones.
  • the sheet is generally cylindrical in shape.
  • a cylindrical shaped lamination is favorable to the bevel facet cut.
  • each facet in each facet the associated groove is open at its two ends through a respective side edge of the facet.
  • This configuration of the facet allows a perfect cleaning of the groove after its machining. This is important for the purity of the effects bright in the piece of jewelry.
  • the groove may have a substantially constant profile over its entire length, from one open end to the other.
  • the bottom of the groove extends in a straight longitudinal direction, in particular parallel to the plane of the facet. This embodiment is simple and effective to allow a good grip of the claw in the groove.
  • the groove is formed in a plane perpendicular to the axis. It may for example be sawing performed in said plane.
  • the bottom of the groove is typically a surface parallel to the axis. This is obtained for example with sawing in a plane perpendicular to the axis as mentioned above.
  • the stone has four facets and four grooves.
  • the angle between the axis and a facet median situated in an axial plane is of the order of 40°. This is approximately 10° less than the half angle at the top of the yoke of a conventional round diamond.
  • the facets leave the lamination intact on the periphery of the upper face. In this way, the existence of the facets has no effect on the appearance of the stone after it has been mounted in the piece of jewelry.
  • the facets locally reduce the height of the lamination to a non-zero value. This is favorable for a stable point of contact between adjacent stones.
  • the facets are grouped together in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V relative to each other, the pairs being spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.
  • the setting comprises for each pair of facets two aforementioned claws having a common foot, separated from the foot of the at least one other pair of claws.
  • the setting comprises for each facet a claw connected to the base independently of the other claws.
  • the frame comprises a plate and, for each aforementioned stone, a spike bearing the claws associated with this stone.
  • the pin comprises snap-fastening means in a respective recess in the plate.
  • the claws associated with the same stone are elastically flexible in the direction of mutual spacing to receive the stone by snap-fastening the stone between the associated claws. This facilitates the assembly operations of the piece of jewelry.
  • the stones are mounted with contact or quasi-contact between the sheets of neighboring stones. This is how the setting is best concealed on the assembled piece of jewelry.
  • the stones being round, they are not in mutual contact on all their circumference but only in certain points of contact or quasi-contact.
  • the claws are located below these points of contact or quasi-contact between laminations, rather than below zones where the neighboring stones leave a space between them.
  • the facet cutting operation remains below an upper limit of the lamination, so as not to affect the appearance of the stone as seen on the finished piece of jewelry.
  • the periphery of the stone is recut so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and jointly reveal or enlarge an axial height of the lamination. This facilitates the realization of the facets and makes it possible to give them a steeper slope which will facilitate the machining of the groove.
  • the grooves are formed by sawing, in particular in a plane perpendicular to the axis.
  • the sawing is deep enough for the groove to have an undercut retaining face along its edge opposite the lamination.
  • the barb comprises an even number of claws, grouped together in pairs of neighboring claws, the pairs being regularly distributed around the axis.
  • the two claws of the same pair are connected to the base by a common foot, distinct from the foot of at least one other pair.
  • the piece of jewelry comprises several stones 1, in particular diamonds, which have in top view ( Figure 2 ) a round shape, in particular circular.
  • Each stone 1 comprises a visible face 2 and a yoke 3 separated from the visible face by a sheet 4 which forms the periphery of the stone and defines its diameter which is typically a few mm, for example here 4.7 mm.
  • the sheet here is cylindrical in shape.
  • the cylinder head 3 is generally conical in shape along an axis 6 which constitutes the axis of the stone and in particular the axis of the sheet 4 and the axis of the visible face 2.
  • the general conical shape is here defined by multiple polygons (triangles) planes, in a classic jewelry fashion.
  • the stones 1 are adjacent to each other and in particular are in contact or quasi-contact with each other by their laminations 4, in bridges of contact or quasi-contact 7.
  • the piece of jewelry further comprises a mount 8 essentially located on the side of the cylinder head 3 of the stones and comprising claws 9 to support the stones.
  • the claws 9 belong to pins 27 each assigned to a respective one of the stones, and which each carry four claws 9.
  • the frame 8 further comprises an underlying plate 26, in which the pins 27 are fixed, d in a manner which will be described in detail later.
  • Laminate 4 has a certain height measured parallel to the axis, the average value of which is denoted by h ( Figure 4 ), the precise height fluctuating along the periphery of the rounded fact created by the intersection of the cylinder of the sheet with the planes of the polygons defining the conical shape and other planar faces present on the periphery of the visible face 2 of the stone.
  • the stone further comprises, for each claw, a facet 13 which overlaps the lamination 4 and the yoke 3 locally forming a bevel between the yoke 3 and the lamination 4.
  • Each facet 13 encroaches on the lamination 4 and locally reduces the axial height of sheet 4 with respect to the value h. However, said axial height is not canceled, the facets 13 leave the lamination intact on the periphery of the upper face 2.
  • the presence of the facets 13 is not directly perceptible when the visible face 2 is observed along the axis 6 .
  • Each facet 13 is hollowed out with a groove 14 extending transversely relative to the axis 6 and receiving a spout 16 ( Figure 1 ) of a respective one of said claws 9.
  • each groove 14 has a longitudinal direction 17 (see Figure 6 for one of the grooves) perpendicular to axis 6.
  • each facet 13 the associated groove 14 is open at its two ends 18 through a respective side edge 19 of the facet.
  • the bottom of the groove 14 extends in a straight longitudinal direction, preferably parallel to the plane of the corresponding facet 13.
  • each groove 14 is formed in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to the axis 6. In the example shown, this plane is the same for all the grooves 14 of the stone.
  • the bottom 22 ( Figure 5 ) of the groove is a surface parallel to the axis 6.
  • this bottom surface then is flat.
  • the depicted realization of the stone has four facets 13 and four grooves 14.
  • the angle A ( Figure 5 ) between the axis 6 and a median 23 ( Figure 3 and 5 ) of facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40°, i.e. approximately 10° less than the half-angle at the vertex B of the cone formed by the yoke 3.
  • the facets 13 are grouped together in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V with respect to each other.
  • the pairs are spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.
  • a pair is designated by the reference 24 at the Figure 6 .
  • the grooves 14 of two facets of the same pair 24 communicate with each other via a common end 18.
  • each pin 27 comprises for each facet 13 a claw 9 connected to a base 28 of the pin, by which the pin is fixed to the plate 26.
  • each claw 9 is fixed to the base 28 independently of the other claws 9 of the pin.
  • the pin For its attachment to the plate 26, the pin comprises, in the embodiment shown, latching means 29 in a respective recess 31 of the plate 26.
  • latching means 29 are two opposite latching hooks which are snap below two opposite edges of the recess 31 made in the form of a rectangular window.
  • the recess 31 has a shape (here rectangular) which only admits, for the orientation of the pin 27 around its axis, a number (here 2) of orientations at most equal to the order of symmetry of the pin 27 and of the stone 1 around the axis 6. This is one possible way, among other things, so that all the pins 27 and all the stones are oriented in the same way around their respective axis in the piece of jewelery (See Figure 2 where the orientation pimples and stones is visible from the position of the claws visible in dotted lines).
  • the claws 9 associated with the same stone, therefore here belonging to the same pin 27, are elastically flexible in the direction of the mutual spacing to receive the stone 1 by snap-fastening the stone between the associated claws 9.
  • the claws are located as much as possible below the points of contact or quasi-contact 7 between layers 4, as visible in Figure 2 . This can be obtained by limiting the number of orientations permitted for pins 27 with respect to plate 26 as described above.
  • the embodiment of the Picture 11 typically concerns smaller stones, for example a diameter of 2.5mm.
  • the frame comprises two aforementioned claws 9 having a common foot 32, separated from the foot 32 of the at least one other pair of claws 9.
  • the pin 127 has legs 109 starting from the base 28, to laterally retain the stone 1.
  • the legs 109 are distinguished from the claws 9 in particular in that they have no beak 16
  • the tabs 109 are separated from the claws 9 by slots 111 which allow the claws 9 to flex independently of the tabs 109.
  • the tabs 109 are only connected to the claws by the base 28 of the barb 127 in this embodiment.
  • the tabs 109 are replaced on the pin 227 by arches 209 which connect the claws in one piece 9 successive belonging to different pairs.
  • the hoops 209 extend circumferentially at a certain distance from the base 28 and serve as the legs 109 for the lateral retention of the stone mounted on the spike.
  • the grooves 14 can be machined by sawing, in particular in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to axis 6.
  • the sawing or other machining is deep enough for the groove to have a retaining face 20 ( Figure 5 ) undercut along its opposite edge to foliation 4.
  • a dashed line 33 at the Figure 4 before cutting the facets 13 in a stone initially cut in a conventional manner, for example as received from a supplier, it may be advantageous to recut the periphery of the stone along the chain line 33 so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and jointly reveal or enlarge the axial height of the laminate.
  • This facilitates the creation of the facets 13 according to the invention and/or makes it possible to further reduce their angle A ( Figure 5 ).
  • This facilitates the machining of the grooves 14 and reduces the depth to be given to them so that their edge opposite the visible surface forms an undercut giving grip to the claws 9. Shallower grooves are less likely to disturb the play of light in the stone.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)

Description

La présente invention concerne une pièce de joaillerie comportant des pierres, notamment des diamants, rondes et en particulier circulaires.The present invention relates to a piece of jewelry comprising stones, in particular diamonds, round and in particular circular.

La présente invention concerne également un procédé pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, en vue de son intégration dans la pièce de joaillerie.The present invention also relates to a method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, with a view to its integration into the piece of jewelry.

La présente invention concerne encore un picot de monture pour supporter une pierre de la pièce de joaillerie.The present invention also relates to a mounting pin for supporting a stone of the piece of jewelry.

Les pièces de joaillerie visées par l'invention peuvent être des bagues, des bracelets, des montres, des colliers ou éléments de colliers, des boucles d'oreille, des ornements de coiffure, des boutons, etc., ou encore des objets autres que destinés à la parure du corps, autrement dit tout objet orné de pierres précieuses ou semi-précieuses, en particulier de diamants.The pieces of jewelry covered by the invention may be rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces or parts of necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, buttons, etc., or even objects other than intended for adornment of the body, in other words any object adorned with precious or semi-precious stones, in particular diamonds.

La forme ronde, en particulier circulaire, doit être entendue au sens large, cette forme pouvant être réalisée de façon approximative par de multiples polygones plans. Ladite forme ronde s'entend par opposition à une forme « carrée », « rectangulaire » ou toute autre géométrie avec des côtés dont la présence est dominante pour l'effet visuel d'ensemble.The round shape, in particular circular, should be understood in the broad sense, this shape being able to be produced approximately by multiple planar polygons. Said round shape is understood as opposed to a “square”, “rectangular” shape or any other geometry with sides whose presence is dominant for the overall visual effect.

De nombreux documents ( EP 0196 455 B1 , EP 0201 394 A1 , EP 0276 183 A1 , FR 2 580 541 A1 , FR 2 609 605 A1 ) décrivent des pièces de joaillerie où des pierres carrées sont montées d'une manière jointive, à la manière d'un pavage, dissimulant la monture située en-dessous de la périphérie des pierres, appelée « feuilletis ». Ceci est réalisé le plus souvent au moyen d'encoches formées dans les arêtes de la partie inférieure des pierres, appelée « culasse », qui est de forme générale pyramidale pour des pierres carrées. La monture comporte des conformations venant en prise avec ces encoches. Une fois montées, les pierres se calent les unes contre les autres, côté de carré contre côté de carré.Many documents ( EP 0196 455 B1 , EP 0201 394 A1 , EP 0276 183 A1 , FR 2 580 541 A1 , EN 2 609 605 A1 ) describe pieces of jewelry where square stones are mounted in a contiguous manner, like a paving, concealing the setting located below the periphery of the stones, called "laminates". This is most often achieved by means of notches formed in the edges of the lower part of the stones, called "breech", which is generally pyramidal in shape for square stones. The frame has conformations that come into engagement with these notches. Once mounted, the stones fit against each other, square side against square side.

Le US 5 649 434 A et le US 5 713 219 A décrivent des pierres retenues sur leur support par deux becs opposés.the US 5,649,434A and the US 5,713,219A describe stones held on their support by two opposite beaks.

Le but de l'invention est de permettre la dissimulation de la monture pour une pièce de joaillerie comportant des pierres rondes, typiquement un tapis de pierres rondes.The object of the invention is to allow concealment of the setting for a piece of jewelery comprising round stones, typically a carpet of round stones.

Suivant un premier aspect de l'invention, la pièce de joaillerie avec :

  • ▪ au moins une pierre, en particulier un diamant, comportant une face visible de forme générale ronde et une culasse en forme générale d'un cône ayant un axe, séparée de la face visible par un feuilletis périphérique, et
  • ▪ une monture essentiellement située du côté de la culasse et comportant des griffes pour supporter la pierre,
est caractérisée en ce que :
  • ▪ le feuilletis présente une certaine hauteur mesurée parallèlement à l'axe ;
  • ▪ la pierre comporte au moins trois facettes chevauchant le feuilletis et la culasse en formant localement un biseau entre la culasse et le feuilletis ; et
  • ▪ chaque facette est creusée d'une rainure s'étendant transversalement par rapport à l'axe et recevant un bec de l'une desdites griffes.
According to a first aspect of the invention, the piece of jewelry with:
  • ▪ at least one stone, in particular a diamond, comprising a visible face of generally round shape and a yoke in the general shape of a cone having an axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral lamination, and
  • ▪ a mount essentially located on the side of the cylinder head and comprising claws to support the stone,
is characterized in that:
  • ▪ the sheet has a certain height measured parallel to the axis;
  • ▪ the stone has at least three facets overlapping the lamination and the yoke, locally forming a bevel between the yoke and the lamination; and
  • ▪ each facet is dug with a groove extending transversely relative to the axis and receiving a beak from one of said claws.

La culasse présente un angle au sommet relativement ouvert dicté par la recherche d'une réfraction optimale de la lumière. Grâce à la facette dont la pente est plus raide, l'attaque d'un outil d'usinage est facilitée. En outre, une rainure de moindre profondeur est suffisante pour offrir à la griffe de la monture une prise permettant de tenir solidement la pierre. Les au moins trois griffes prévues permettent de positionner positivement la pierre indépendamment des pierres voisines.The cylinder head has a relatively open apex angle dictated by the search for optimal refraction of light. Thanks to the facet whose slope is steeper, the attack of a machining tool is facilitated. In addition, a shallower groove is sufficient to provide the claw of the mount with a grip to securely hold the stone. The at least three claws provided make it possible to positively position the stone independently of the neighboring stones.

Typiquement le feuilletis est de forme générale cylindrique. Un feuilletis de forme cylindrique est favorable à la taille de la facette en biseau.Typically the sheet is generally cylindrical in shape. A cylindrical shaped lamination is favorable to the bevel facet cut.

Suivant une réalisation avantageuse, dans chaque facette la rainure associée est ouverte à ses deux extrémités à travers un bord latéral respectif de la facette. Cette configuration de la facette permet un nettoyage parfait de la rainure après son usinage. Ceci est important pour la pureté des effets lumineux dans la pièce de joaillerie. En particulier la rainure peut avoir un profil sensiblement constant sur toute sa longueur, d'une extrémité ouverte à l'autre.According to an advantageous embodiment, in each facet the associated groove is open at its two ends through a respective side edge of the facet. This configuration of the facet allows a perfect cleaning of the groove after its machining. This is important for the purity of the effects bright in the piece of jewelry. In particular, the groove may have a substantially constant profile over its entire length, from one open end to the other.

Dans une réalisation le fond de la rainure s'étend selon une direction longitudinale rectiligne, notamment parallèle au plan de la facette. Cette réalisation est simple et efficace pour permettre une bonne prise de la griffe dans la rainure.In one embodiment, the bottom of the groove extends in a straight longitudinal direction, in particular parallel to the plane of the facet. This embodiment is simple and effective to allow a good grip of the claw in the groove.

Dans une réalisation avantageuse la rainure est formée dans un plan perpendiculaire à l'axe. Il peut par exemple s'agir d'un sciage pratiqué dans ledit plan.In an advantageous embodiment the groove is formed in a plane perpendicular to the axis. It may for example be sawing performed in said plane.

Le fond de la rainure est typiquement une surface parallèle à l'axe. Ceci est obtenu par exemple avec le sciage dans un plan perpendiculaire à l'axe comme évoqué plus haut.The bottom of the groove is typically a surface parallel to the axis. This is obtained for example with sawing in a plane perpendicular to the axis as mentioned above.

Dans un mode de réalisation préféré la pierre comporte quatre facettes et quatre rainures.In a preferred embodiment the stone has four facets and four grooves.

Suivant une réalisation, l'angle entre l'axe et une médiane de facette située dans un plan axial est de l'ordre de 40°. Ceci représente environ 10° de moins que le demi-angle au sommet de la culasse d'un diamant rond classique.According to one embodiment, the angle between the axis and a facet median situated in an axial plane is of the order of 40°. This is approximately 10° less than the half angle at the top of the yoke of a conventional round diamond.

De préférence, les facettes laissent le feuilletis intact sur le pourtour de la face supérieure. De la sorte l'existence des facettes est sans incidence sur l'aspect de la pierre après son montage dans la pièce de joaillerie.Preferably, the facets leave the lamination intact on the periphery of the upper face. In this way, the existence of the facets has no effect on the appearance of the stone after it has been mounted in the piece of jewelry.

Dans une réalisation les facettes réduisent localement la hauteur du feuilletis à une valeur non nulle. Ceci est favorable pour un point de contact stable entre pierres adjacentes.In one embodiment, the facets locally reduce the height of the lamination to a non-zero value. This is favorable for a stable point of contact between adjacent stones.

Suivant un mode de réalisation, les facettes sont regroupées par paires de facettes voisines disposées en V l'une par rapport à l'autre, les paires étant espacées entre elles, de préférence régulièrement réparties autour de l'axe.According to one embodiment, the facets are grouped together in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V relative to each other, the pairs being spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.

Notamment pour les pierres de petite taille, la monture comporte pour chaque paire de facettes deux griffes précitées ayant un pied commun, séparé du pied de l'au moins une autre paire de griffes. Mais il est également possible, en particulier pour des pierres plus grandes, que la monture comporte pour chaque facette une griffe reliée à la base indépendamment des autres griffes.In particular for stones of small size, the setting comprises for each pair of facets two aforementioned claws having a common foot, separated from the foot of the at least one other pair of claws. But it is also possible, in particular for larger stones, for the setting to comprise for each facet a claw connected to the base independently of the other claws.

Dans un mode de réalisation la monture comprend une platine et, pour chaque pierre précitée, un picot portant les griffes associées à cette pierre. De préférence le picot comporte des moyens d'encliquetage dans un évidement respectif de la platine.In one embodiment, the frame comprises a plate and, for each aforementioned stone, a spike bearing the claws associated with this stone. Preferably, the pin comprises snap-fastening means in a respective recess in the plate.

De préférence, les griffes associées à une même pierre sont élastiquement flexibles dans le sens de l'écartement mutuel pour recevoir la pierre par encliquetage de la pierre entre les griffes associées. Ceci facilite les opérations d'assemblage de la pièce de joaillerie.Preferably, the claws associated with the same stone are elastically flexible in the direction of mutual spacing to receive the stone by snap-fastening the stone between the associated claws. This facilitates the assembly operations of the piece of jewelry.

Typiquement, dans la pièce de joaillerie les pierres sont montées avec contact ou quasi-contact entre les feuilletis des pierres voisines. C'est ainsi que l'on dissimule le mieux la monture sur la pièce de joaillerie assemblée. Les pierres étant rondes, elles ne sont pas en contact mutuel sur tout leur pourtour mais seulement en certains points de contact ou quasi-contact. De préférence on fait en sorte que les griffes soient situées en-dessous de ces points de contact ou quasi-contact entre feuilletis, plutôt qu'en-dessous de zones où les pierres voisines laissent un espace entre elles.Typically, in the piece of jewelry, the stones are mounted with contact or quasi-contact between the sheets of neighboring stones. This is how the setting is best concealed on the assembled piece of jewelry. The stones being round, they are not in mutual contact on all their circumference but only in certain points of contact or quasi-contact. Preferably, the claws are located below these points of contact or quasi-contact between laminations, rather than below zones where the neighboring stones leave a space between them.

Suivant un second aspect de l'invention, le procédé pour tailler une pierre, en particulier un diamant, en vue de la réalisation d'une pièce de joaillerie selon l'aspect précédent ou l'un quelconque de ses perfectionnements ou combinaison de perfectionnements, la pierre comportant une face visible de forme générale ronde et une culasse en forme générale d'un cône ayant un axe, séparée de la face visible par un feuilletis périphérique, est caractérisé en ce que

  • ▪ on taille dans la pierre au moins trois facettes chevauchant le feuilletis et la culasse en formant localement un biseau entre la culasse et le feuilletis ; et
  • ▪ on creuse chaque facette d'une rainure s'étendant transversalement par rapport à l'axe.
According to a second aspect of the invention, the method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, with a view to producing a piece of jewelry according to the previous aspect or any one of its improvements or combination of improvements, the stone comprising a generally round visible face and a generally cone-shaped yoke having a axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral lamination, is characterized in that
  • ▪ at least three facets overlapping the lamination and the yoke are cut in the stone, locally forming a bevel between the yoke and the lamination; and
  • ▪ each facet is hollowed out with a groove extending transversely with respect to the axis.

De préférence l'opération de taille des facettes reste en-deçà d'une limite supérieure du feuilletis, de façon à ne pas affecter l'aspect de la pierre telle qu'elle est vue sur la pièce de joaillerie terminée.Preferably, the facet cutting operation remains below an upper limit of the lamination, so as not to affect the appearance of the stone as seen on the finished piece of jewelry.

Dans un mode de mise en œuvre du procédé, avant de tailler les facettes on retaille la périphérie de la pierre de façon à réduire sa dimension perpendiculaire à l'axe sur tout son pourtour et conjointement faire apparaître ou agrandir une hauteur axiale du feuilletis. Ceci facilite la réalisation des facettes et permet de leur donner une pente plus raide qui facilitera l'usinage de la rainure.In one embodiment of the method, before cutting the facets, the periphery of the stone is recut so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and jointly reveal or enlarge an axial height of the lamination. This facilitates the realization of the facets and makes it possible to give them a steeper slope which will facilitate the machining of the groove.

Typiquement on forme les rainures par sciage, en particulier dans un plan perpendiculaire à l'axe.Typically the grooves are formed by sawing, in particular in a plane perpendicular to the axis.

Dans une réalisation le sciage est suffisamment profond pour que la rainure présente une face de retenue en contre-dépouille le long de son bord opposé au feuilletis.In one embodiment, the sawing is deep enough for the groove to have an undercut retaining face along its edge opposite the lamination.

Suivant un troisième aspect de l'invention, le picot de monture pour pièce de joaillerie selon le premier aspect ou l'un quelconque de ses perfectionnements ou combinaisons de perfectionnements, est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend :

  • ▪ une base commune équipée de moyens d'encliquetage dans une platine ; et
  • ▪ au moins trois griffes réparties autour d'un axe, comportant chacune un bec d'encliquetage dirigé vers l'axe, et capables de s'écarter l'une de l'autre par flexion élastique.
According to a third aspect of the invention, the mounting stud for a piece of jewelry according to the first aspect or any one of its improvements or combinations of improvements, is characterized in that it comprises:
  • ▪ a common base equipped with snap-fastening means in a plate; and
  • ▪ at least three claws distributed around an axis, each comprising a latching nose directed towards the axis, and capable of moving apart from each other by elastic bending.

Dans une réalisation le picot comporte un nombre pair de griffes, regroupées par paires de griffes voisines, les paires étant régulièrement réparties autour de l'axe.In one embodiment, the barb comprises an even number of claws, grouped together in pairs of neighboring claws, the pairs being regularly distributed around the axis.

Notamment pour le montage de pierres de petites dimensions, les deux griffes d'une même paire sont raccordées à la base par un pied commun, distinct du pied de l'au moins une autre paire.In particular for mounting stones of small dimensions, the two claws of the same pair are connected to the base by a common foot, distinct from the foot of at least one other pair.

D'autres particularités et avantages de l'invention ressortiront encore de la description ci-après, relative à des exemples non-limitatifs.Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description below, relating to non-limiting examples.

Aux dessins annexés :

  • ▪ la Figure 1 est une vue partielle en élévation d'une pièce de joaillerie selon l'invention, avec coupe de la platine ;
  • ▪ la Figure 2 est une vue partielle de dessus de la pièce de joaillerie de la Figure 1, la partie droite de la Figure ne montrant que la platine ;
  • ▪ le Figure 3 est une vue en perspective d'une pierre de la pièce de joaillerie des Figures 1 et 2 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 4 est une vue en élévation de la pierre de la Figure 3 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 5 est une autre vue en élévation de la pierre de la Figure 3 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 6 est une vue de dessous de la pierre des Figures 3 à 5 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 7 est une vue en perspective d'un picot de la monture de la pièce de joaillerie des Figures 1 et 2 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 8 est une vue de dessus du picot de la Figure 7 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 9 est une vue en coupe selon IX - IX de la Figure 8 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 10 est une vue en perspective de la pierre des Figures 3 à 6 montée sur le picot des Figures 7 à 9 ;
  • ▪ la Figure 11 est une vue analogue à la Figure 10 mais avec une pierre plus petite et un deuxième mode de réalisation du picot ;
  • ▪ La figure 12 est une vue en élévation montrant la pierre et le picot, dans un troisième mode de réalisation du picot ;
  • ▪ La figure 13 est une vue en perspective du picot de la figure 12 ; et
  • ▪ La figure 14 est une vue en perspective d'un autre mode de réalisation du picot.
In the attached drawings:
  • ▪ the Figure 1 is a partial elevational view of a piece of jewelry according to the invention, with section of the plate;
  • ▪ the Figure 2 is a partial top view of the piece of jewelry from the Figure 1 , the right part of the figure showing only the plate;
  • ▪ the Figure 3 is a perspective view of a stone from the jewelry piece of the Figures 1 and 2 ;
  • ▪ the Figure 4 is an elevational view of the stone of the Figure 3 ;
  • ▪ the Figure 5 is another elevation view of the stone of the Figure 3 ;
  • ▪ the Figure 6 is a bottom view of the stone of the Figures 3 to 5 ;
  • ▪ the Picture 7 is a perspective view of a stud of the setting of the piece of jewelry of the Figures 1 and 2 ;
  • ▪ the Picture 8 is a top view of the pin of the Picture 7 ;
  • ▪ the Picture 9 is a sectional view according to IX - IX of the Picture 8 ;
  • ▪ the Picture 10 is a perspective view of the stone of the Figures 3 to 6 mounted on the spike Figures 7 to 9 ;
  • ▪ the Picture 11 is a view analogous to Picture 10 but with a smaller stone and a second embodiment of the pimple;
  • ▪ The figure 12 is an elevational view showing the stone and the pin, in a third embodiment of the pin;
  • ▪ The figure 13 is a perspective view of the pin of the figure 12 ; and
  • ▪ The figure 14 is a perspective view of another embodiment of the spike.

La présente description s'étend aux réalisations décrites mais aussi à toute particularité ou combinaison de particularités, dans les termes utilisés ou dans des termes plus généraux, même si ces particularités ou combinaisons de particularités proviennent d'une partie de phrase, d'une partie de paragraphe, ou de plusieurs parties de phrase ou de paragraphe, dès lors que la particularité ou combinaison de particularités se distingue de l'état de la technique et produit un avantage sur l'état de la technique.This description extends to the embodiments described but also to any feature or combination of features, in the terms used or in more general terms, even if these features or combinations of features come from a part of a sentence, a part of paragraph, or of several parts of a sentence or of a paragraph, provided that the feature or combination of features differs from the state of the art and produces an advantage over the state of the art.

Dans l'exemple des Figures 1 et 2, la pièce de joaillerie comprend plusieurs pierres 1, en particulier des diamants, qui ont en vue de dessus (Figure 2) une forme ronde, en particulier circulaire. Chaque pierre 1 comporte une face visible 2 et une culasse 3 séparée de la face visible par un feuilletis 4 qui forme la périphérie de la pierre et définit son diamètre qui est typiquement de quelques mm, par exemple ici 4,7mm. Le feuilletis est ici de forme cylindrique. La culasse 3 est de forme générale conique suivant un axe 6 qui constitue l'axe de la pierre et en particulier l'axe du feuilletis 4 et l'axe de la face visible 2. La forme générale conique est ici définie par de multiples polygones (triangles) plans, d'une manière classique en joaillerie. Dans le mode de réalisation représenté, les pierres 1 sont adjacentes les unes aux autres et en particulier sont en contact ou quasi-contact mutuel par leurs feuilletis 4, en des ponts de contact ou quasi-contact 7.In the example of Figures 1 and 2 , the piece of jewelry comprises several stones 1, in particular diamonds, which have in top view ( Figure 2 ) a round shape, in particular circular. Each stone 1 comprises a visible face 2 and a yoke 3 separated from the visible face by a sheet 4 which forms the periphery of the stone and defines its diameter which is typically a few mm, for example here 4.7 mm. The sheet here is cylindrical in shape. The cylinder head 3 is generally conical in shape along an axis 6 which constitutes the axis of the stone and in particular the axis of the sheet 4 and the axis of the visible face 2. The general conical shape is here defined by multiple polygons (triangles) planes, in a classic jewelry fashion. In the embodiment represented, the stones 1 are adjacent to each other and in particular are in contact or quasi-contact with each other by their laminations 4, in bridges of contact or quasi-contact 7.

La pièce de joaillerie comprend en outre une monture 8 essentiellement située du côté de la culasse 3 des pierres et comportant des griffes 9 pour supporter les pierres. Dans une réalisation les griffes 9 appartiennent à des picots 27 affectés chacun à l'une respective des pierres, et qui portent chacun quatre griffes 9. La monture 8 comprend encore une platine 26 sous-jacente, dans laquelle sont fixés les picots 27, d'une manière qui sera décrite en détail plus loin.The piece of jewelry further comprises a mount 8 essentially located on the side of the cylinder head 3 of the stones and comprising claws 9 to support the stones. In one embodiment the claws 9 belong to pins 27 each assigned to a respective one of the stones, and which each carry four claws 9. The frame 8 further comprises an underlying plate 26, in which the pins 27 are fixed, d in a manner which will be described in detail later.

On va maintenant, en référence aux Figures 3 à 6, décrire plus en détail la pierre préférée pour la mise en œuvre de l'invention. Le feuilletis 4 présente une certaine hauteur mesurée parallèlement à l'axe, dont la valeur moyenne est désignée par h (Figure 4), la hauteur précise étant fluctuante le long du pourtour du fait arrondis créés par l'intersection du cylindre du feuilletis avec les plans des polygones définissant la forme conique et d'autres faces planes présentes sur le pourtour de la face visible 2 de la pierre.We will now, with reference to Figures 3 to 6 , describe in more detail the preferred stone for the implementation of the invention. Laminate 4 has a certain height measured parallel to the axis, the average value of which is denoted by h ( Figure 4 ), the precise height fluctuating along the periphery of the rounded fact created by the intersection of the cylinder of the sheet with the planes of the polygons defining the conical shape and other planar faces present on the periphery of the visible face 2 of the stone.

La pierre comporte en outre, pour chaque griffe, une facette 13 qui chevauche le feuilletis 4 et la culasse 3 en formant localement un biseau entre la culasse 3 et le feuilletis 4. Chaque facette 13 empiète sur le feuilletis 4 et réduit localement la hauteur axiale du feuilletis 4 par rapport à la valeur h. Toutefois, ladite hauteur axiale n'est pas annulée, les facettes 13 laissent le feuilletis intact sur le pourtour de la face supérieure 2. La présence des facettes 13 n'est pas directement perceptible lorsque la face visible 2 est observée selon l'axe 6.The stone further comprises, for each claw, a facet 13 which overlaps the lamination 4 and the yoke 3 locally forming a bevel between the yoke 3 and the lamination 4. Each facet 13 encroaches on the lamination 4 and locally reduces the axial height of sheet 4 with respect to the value h. However, said axial height is not canceled, the facets 13 leave the lamination intact on the periphery of the upper face 2. The presence of the facets 13 is not directly perceptible when the visible face 2 is observed along the axis 6 .

Chaque facette 13 est creusée d'une rainure 14 s'étendant transversalement par rapport à l'axe 6 et recevant un bec 16 (Figure 1) de l'une respective desdites griffes 9. Ici chaque rainure 14 a une direction longitudinale 17 (voir Figure 6 pour l'une des rainures) perpendiculaire à l'axe 6.Each facet 13 is hollowed out with a groove 14 extending transversely relative to the axis 6 and receiving a spout 16 ( Figure 1 ) of a respective one of said claws 9. Here each groove 14 has a longitudinal direction 17 (see Figure 6 for one of the grooves) perpendicular to axis 6.

Dans chaque facette 13 la rainure 14 associée est ouverte à ses deux extrémités 18 à travers un bord latéral respectif 19 de la facette.In each facet 13 the associated groove 14 is open at its two ends 18 through a respective side edge 19 of the facet.

Dans une réalisation, le fond de la rainure 14 s'étend selon une direction longitudinale rectiligne, de préférence parallèle au plan de la facette 13 correspondante.In one embodiment, the bottom of the groove 14 extends in a straight longitudinal direction, preferably parallel to the plane of the corresponding facet 13.

Typiquement, chaque rainure 14 est formée dans un plan 21 (Figure 5) perpendiculaire à l'axe 6. Dans l'exemple représenté ce plan est le même pour toutes les rainures 14 de la pierre.Typically, each groove 14 is formed in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to the axis 6. In the example shown, this plane is the same for all the grooves 14 of the stone.

Dans la réalisation représentée le fond 22 (Figure 5) de la rainure est une surface parallèle à l'axe 6. Lorsque la direction longitudinale de la rainure est rectiligne cette surface du fond alors est plane.In the embodiment represented the bottom 22 ( Figure 5 ) of the groove is a surface parallel to the axis 6. When the longitudinal direction of the groove is rectilinear, this bottom surface then is flat.

La réalisation représentée de la pierre comporte quatre facettes 13 et quatre rainures 14.The depicted realization of the stone has four facets 13 and four grooves 14.

Dans une réalisation l'angle A (Figure 5) entre l'axe 6 et une médiane 23 (Figures 3 et 5) de facette située dans un plan axial est de l'ordre de 40°, soit environ 10 ° de moins que le demi-angle au sommet B du cône formé par la culasse 3.In one embodiment the angle A ( Figure 5 ) between the axis 6 and a median 23 ( Figure 3 and 5 ) of facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40°, i.e. approximately 10° less than the half-angle at the vertex B of the cone formed by the yoke 3.

Comme le montrent les Figures 3, 4 et 6, dans le mode de réalisation représenté, les facettes 13 sont regroupées par paires de facettes voisines disposées en V l'une par rapport à l'autre. Les paires sont espacées entre elles, de préférence régulièrement réparties autour de l'axe. A titre d'exemple une paire est désignée par la référence 24 à la Figure 6. Les rainures 14 de deux facettes d'une même paire 24 communiquent l'une avec l'autre par une extrémité 18 commune.As shown by the Figure 3 , 4 and 6 , in the embodiment shown, the facets 13 are grouped together in pairs of neighboring facets arranged in a V with respect to each other. The pairs are spaced apart, preferably regularly distributed around the axis. By way of example, a pair is designated by the reference 24 at the Figure 6 . The grooves 14 of two facets of the same pair 24 communicate with each other via a common end 18.

On va maintenant plus particulièrement décrire la monture 8 et sa coopération avec les pierres 1, en se référant également aux Figures 7 à 10.We will now more particularly describe the frame 8 and its cooperation with the stones 1, also referring to the Figures 7 to 10 .

Dans une réalisation, chaque picot 27 comporte pour chaque facette 13 une griffe 9 reliée à une base 28 du picot, par laquelle le picot est fixé à la platine 26. Dans l'exemple des figures 1 à 10, chaque griffe 9 est fixée à la base 28 indépendamment des autres griffes 9 du picot.In one embodiment, each pin 27 comprises for each facet 13 a claw 9 connected to a base 28 of the pin, by which the pin is fixed to the plate 26. In the example of the figures 1 to 10 , each claw 9 is fixed to the base 28 independently of the other claws 9 of the pin.

Pour sa fixation à la platine 26, le picot comporte dans la réalisation représentée des moyens d'encliquetage 29 dans un évidement 31 respectif de la platine 26. Il s'agit, dans cet exemple particulier, de deux crochets d'encliquetage opposés qui s'enclenchent en-dessous de deux bords opposés de l'évidement 31 réalisé sous la forme d'une fenêtre rectangulaire.For its attachment to the plate 26, the pin comprises, in the embodiment shown, latching means 29 in a respective recess 31 of the plate 26. In this particular example, these are two opposite latching hooks which are snap below two opposite edges of the recess 31 made in the form of a rectangular window.

L'évidement 31 a une forme (ici rectangulaire) qui n'admet, pour l'orientation du picot 27 autour de son axe, qu'un nombre (ici 2) d'orientations au plus égal à l'ordre de symétrie du picot 27 et de la pierre 1 autour de l'axe 6. Ceci est un moyen entre autres possibles pour que tous les picots 27 et toutes les pierres soient orientés de la même manière autour de leur axe respectif dans la pièce de joaillerie (Voir Figure 2 où l'orientation des picots et des pierres est visible d'après la position des griffes visibles en pointillés).The recess 31 has a shape (here rectangular) which only admits, for the orientation of the pin 27 around its axis, a number (here 2) of orientations at most equal to the order of symmetry of the pin 27 and of the stone 1 around the axis 6. This is one possible way, among other things, so that all the pins 27 and all the stones are oriented in the same way around their respective axis in the piece of jewelery (See Figure 2 where the orientation pimples and stones is visible from the position of the claws visible in dotted lines).

Dans une réalisation, les griffes 9 associées à une même pierre, donc ici appartenant à un même picot 27, sont élastiquement flexibles dans le sens de l'écartement mutuel pour recevoir la pierre 1 par encliquetage de la pierre entre les griffes 9 associées.In one embodiment, the claws 9 associated with the same stone, therefore here belonging to the same pin 27, are elastically flexible in the direction of the mutual spacing to receive the stone 1 by snap-fastening the stone between the associated claws 9.

Dans la pièce de joaillerie terminée, avec les pierres 1 en contact ou quasi-contact mutuel, les griffes sont situées autant que possible en-dessous des points de contact ou quasi-contact 7 entre feuilletis 4, comme visible à la Figure 2. Ceci peut être obtenu par la limitation du nombre des orientations permises aux picots 27 par rapport à la platine 26 comme décrit précédemment.In the finished piece of jewelry, with the stones 1 in contact or quasi-contact with each other, the claws are located as much as possible below the points of contact or quasi-contact 7 between layers 4, as visible in Figure 2 . This can be obtained by limiting the number of orientations permitted for pins 27 with respect to plate 26 as described above.

Le mode de réalisation de la Figure 11 concerne typiquement des pierres de plus petite dimension, par exemple un diamètre de 2,5mm. Pour chaque paire 24 (Figure 4) de facettes 13 la monture comporte deux griffes 9 précitées ayant un pied commun 32, séparé du pied 32 de l'au moins une autre paire de griffes 9.The embodiment of the Picture 11 typically concerns smaller stones, for example a diameter of 2.5mm. For each pair 24 ( Figure 4 ) of facets 13 the frame comprises two aforementioned claws 9 having a common foot 32, separated from the foot 32 of the at least one other pair of claws 9.

Le mode de réalisation des figures 12 et 13 ne sera décrit que pour ses différences avec celui des figures 7 à 10.The mode of realization of figures 12 and 13 will only be described for its differences with that of the figures 7 to 10 .

Entre les griffes 9 successives appartenant à des paires différentes, le picot 127 comporte des pattes 109 partant de la base 28, pour retenir latéralement la pierre 1. Les pattes 109 se distinguent des griffes 9 notamment en ce qu'elles sont démunies de bec 16. Les pattes 109 sont séparées des griffes 9 par des fentes 111 qui permettent aux griffes 9 de fléchir indépendamment des pattes 109. Les pattes 109 ne sont reliées aux griffes que par la base 28 du picot 127 dans cette réalisation.Between the successive claws 9 belonging to different pairs, the pin 127 has legs 109 starting from the base 28, to laterally retain the stone 1. The legs 109 are distinguished from the claws 9 in particular in that they have no beak 16 The tabs 109 are separated from the claws 9 by slots 111 which allow the claws 9 to flex independently of the tabs 109. The tabs 109 are only connected to the claws by the base 28 of the barb 127 in this embodiment.

Dans le mode de réalisation de la figure 14, qui ne sera décrit que pour ses différences avec celui des figures 12 et 13, les pattes 109 sont remplacées sur le picot 227 par des arceaux 209 qui relient d'une seule pièce les griffes 9 successives appartenant à des paires différentes. Les arceaux 209 s'étendent circonférentiellement à une certaine distance de la base 28 et servent comme les pattes 109 à la retenue latérale de la pierre montée sur le picot.In the embodiment of the figure 14 , which will only be described for its differences with that of the figures 12 and 13 , the tabs 109 are replaced on the pin 227 by arches 209 which connect the claws in one piece 9 successive belonging to different pairs. The hoops 209 extend circumferentially at a certain distance from the base 28 and serve as the legs 109 for the lateral retention of the stone mounted on the spike.

On va maintenant décrire les particularités du procédé qui ne résultent pas de la description qui précède.We will now describe the particularities of the method which do not result from the preceding description.

Les rainures 14 peuvent être usinées par sciage, en particulier dans un plan 21 (Figure 5) perpendiculaire à l'axe 6.The grooves 14 can be machined by sawing, in particular in a plane 21 ( Figure 5 ) perpendicular to axis 6.

Le sciage ou autre usinage est suffisamment profond pour que la rainure présente une face de retenue 20 (Figure 5) en contre-dépouille le long de son bord opposé au feuilletis 4.The sawing or other machining is deep enough for the groove to have a retaining face 20 ( Figure 5 ) undercut along its opposite edge to foliation 4.

Comme illustré par un trait mixte 33 à la Figure 4, avant de tailler les facettes 13 dans une pierre initialement taillée de façon classique, par exemple telle que reçue d'un fournisseur, on peut avoir avantage à retailler la périphérie de la pierre selon le trait mixte 33 de façon à réduire sa dimension perpendiculaire à l'axe sur tout son pourtour et conjointement faire apparaître ou agrandir la hauteur axiale du feuilletis. Ceci facilite la création des facettes 13 selon l'invention et/ou permet de réduire encore leur angle A (Figure 5). Ceci, à son tour, facilite l'usinage des rainures 14 et réduit la profondeur à leur donner pour que leur bord opposé à la surface visible forme une contre-dépouille donnant prise aux griffes 9. Des rainures moins profondes sont moins susceptibles de perturber les jeux de lumière dans la pierre.As illustrated by a dashed line 33 at the Figure 4 , before cutting the facets 13 in a stone initially cut in a conventional manner, for example as received from a supplier, it may be advantageous to recut the periphery of the stone along the chain line 33 so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis over its entire circumference and jointly reveal or enlarge the axial height of the laminate. This facilitates the creation of the facets 13 according to the invention and/or makes it possible to further reduce their angle A ( Figure 5 ). This, in turn, facilitates the machining of the grooves 14 and reduces the depth to be given to them so that their edge opposite the visible surface forms an undercut giving grip to the claws 9. Shallower grooves are less likely to disturb the play of light in the stone.

Bien entendu l'invention n'est pas limitée aux exemples décrits et représentés. Il pourrait n'être prévu que trois griffes et trois rainures par pierre.Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples described and represented. Only three claws and three grooves could be provided per stone.

Claims (19)

  1. - Piece of jewellery with:
    ▪ at least one stone (1), in particular a diamond, having a visible face (2) with a generally round shape and a pavilion (3) with a generally conical shape having an axis (6), separated from the visible face (2) by a peripheral girdle (4), and
    ▪ a mount (8) located essentially on the same side as the pavilion (3) and having claws (9) for supporting the stone (1),
    characterized in that:
    ▪ the girdle (4) has a certain height (h) measured parallel to the axis (6);
    ▪ the stone (1) has at least three facets (13) overlapping the girdle (4) and the pavilion (3), locally forming a bevel between the pavilion (3) and the girdle (4); and
    ▪ each facet (13) has a groove (14) formed therein, extending transverse to the axis (6) and receiving a lip (16) of one of said claws (9).
  2. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 1, characterized in that the girdle (4) has a generally cylindrical shape.
  3. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that in each facet (13) the associated groove (14) is open at both of its ends (18) across a respective lateral edge (19) of the facet (13), wherein the bottom (22) of the groove (14) is preferably rectilinear.
  4. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the stone (1) has four facets (13) and four grooves (14).
  5. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the angle (A) between the axis (6) and a median (23) of a facet (13), said median located in an axial plane, is of the order of 40°.
  6. - Piece of jewellery according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the facets (13) leave the girdle (4) intact over the circumference of the visible face (2), and in that, preferably, the facets (13) locally reduce the axial height of the girdle (4) to a non-zero value.
  7. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the facets (13) are grouped in pairs (24) of neighbouring facets arranged in a V with respect to each other, wherein the pairs are spaced apart from each other, and preferably are evenly distributed around the axis (6).
  8. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 7, characterized in that, for each pair (24) of facets, the mount (8) has two abovementioned claws (9) having a common foot (32), separated from the foot of the at least one other pair of claws.
  9. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the mount (8) comprises a plate (26) and, for each abovementioned stone, a pin (27) bearing the claws (9) associated with this stone (1).
  10. - Piece of jewellery according to claim 9, characterized in that the pin (27) has means (29) for snapping into a respective recess (31) in the plate (26).
  11. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the claws (9) associated with one and the same stone (1) are elastically flexible in the direction in which they move apart from each other to thereby receive the stone by snapping in between the associated claws (9).
  12. - Piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the at least one stone (1) comprises several stones mounted with contact or near contact (7) between the girdles (4) of the neighbouring stones.
  13. - Piece of jewellery according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the mount comprises, at least in certain spaces between successive claws (9) associated with one and the same stone, means for laterally retaining the stone, in particular in each such space a tab (109) for retaining the stone (1) or a circumferential arch (209) for retaining the stone (1).
  14. - Method for cutting a stone (1), in particular a diamond, with a view to producing a piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 13, the stone having a visible face (2) with a generally round shape and a pavilion (3) with a generally conical shape having an axis (6), separated from the visible face (2) by a peripheral girdle (4), characterized in that
    ▪ at least three facets (13) overlapping the girdle (4) and the pavilion (3) are cut into the stone, locally forming a bevel between the pavilion (3) and the girdle (4); and
    ▪ each facet (13) has a groove (14) formed therein, extending transverse to the axis.
  15. - Method according to claim 14, characterized in that, before the facets (13) are cut, the periphery of the stone is cut again so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis (6) over its full circumference and jointly make an axial height (h) of the girdle (4) appear or increase.
  16. - Method according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the grooves (14) are formed by sawing, wherein, in particular, the sawing is deep enough that the groove (14) has a retaining face (20) undercut along its edge remote from the girdle (4).
  17. - Mounting pin for a piece of jewellery according to any one of claims 1 to 13, or for a piece of jewellery obtained using the method according to one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that it comprises:
    ▪ a common base (28) equipped with means (29) for snapping into a plate (26); and
    ▪ at least three claws (9) distributed around an axis (6), each having a snap-in lip (16) directed towards the axis (6), said claws capable of moving apart from each other by elastic bending.
  18. - Mounting pin according to claim 17, characterized in that there is an even number of claws (9), grouped in pairs (24) of neighbouring claws, wherein the pairs are evenly distributed around the axis (6) and the two claws of one and the same pair are preferably connected to the base by a common foot (32), separate from the foot of the at least one other pair.
  19. - Pin according to claim 17 or 18, characterized in that it comprises, at least in certain spaces between successive claws (9), in particular belonging to two different pairs, a means for laterally retaining the stone, in particular a tab (109) starting from the base (28) or a circumferential arch (209) connecting said successive claws (9).
EP19712984.4A 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin Active EP3768110B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1852419A FR3079116B1 (en) 2018-03-21 2018-03-21 JEWELERY PIECE, METHOD FOR CUTTING A STONE, PARTICULARLY A DIAMOND, AND ASSOCIATED MOUNTING PIN.
PCT/EP2019/057039 WO2019180116A1 (en) 2018-03-21 2019-03-21 Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin

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EP3768110A1 EP3768110A1 (en) 2021-01-27
EP3768110B1 true EP3768110B1 (en) 2022-05-04

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EP (1) EP3768110B1 (en)
CN (1) CN112188848B (en)
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WO (1) WO2019180116A1 (en)

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CN112188848B (en) 2022-10-21
CN112188848A (en) 2021-01-05
US20210022460A1 (en) 2021-01-28
US11357296B2 (en) 2022-06-14
EP3768110A1 (en) 2021-01-27
WO2019180116A1 (en) 2019-09-26
FR3079116B1 (en) 2020-03-20
FR3079116A1 (en) 2019-09-27

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