Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use

Definitions

• Cosmetic composition comprising a synthetic phyllosilicate and a polyol and / or a UV filter
• the present invention relates to compositions, in particular cosmetics, such as emulsions, comprising at least one synthetic phyllosilicate and at least one polyol and / or derived from polyols and / or at least one UV filter.
• cosmetics such as emulsions
• the present invention also relates to compositions, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, photoprotective, also called solar products or photoprotective products, and more particularly emulsion type, gel or emulsified gel. More particularly, it relates to the field of care, hygiene, protection and / or make-up of the skin and / or nails, and in particular of the skin of the face and / or the body.
• skin is meant the skin of the face and / or the body.
• nails is also meant the false nails insofar as the desired cosmetic effects are very often identical.
• keratin materials such as the skin tend to dry out due to environmental factors (pollution, wind, cold, air conditioning), psychological (fatigue, stress) or hormonal (menopause). If it is important that the skin is well hydrated and does not lose water, it may wilt and dry the skin. Consumers expect their cosmetic products to moisturize their skin.
• composition providing a fresh residual effect is meant a composition which, after application, induces a reduction of the perceptible cutaneous temperature, for example by at least 0.5 ° C., this cool effect during the application up to minus 4 minutes after application.
• the feeling of hydrated skin is conveyed by a feeling of soft skin and upper layers of the epidermis hydrated.
• humectants which are hygroscopic substances that cause rehydration of the skin by capturing atmospheric water and by retention of water in the skin .
• these humectants are the constituents of the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), such as urea, or polyols, which includes sugars and glycols.
• the skin of the face and / or the body is daily exposed to sunlight.
• UV rays Radiations of wavelength between 280 nm and 400 nm allow bronzing of the human epidermis and that radiation of wavelength between 280 nm and 320 nm, known as UV rays. -B impair the development of natural tanning. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis which results in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin.
• UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 nm and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods of time, under normal conditions can lead to degradation of collagen and elastin fibers which results in a modification of the micro-relief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and irregular pigmentation (brown spots, heterogeneity of complexion).
• UV filters that is to say ensuring optimal UV protection to the desired indices, while providing a good level of sensoriality and cosmetic approval. to encourage the use of sunscreens and thus protect the skin from aggressions by ultraviolet rays.
• these UV filters can be used at high concentrations, sometimes more than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of a composition.
• these humectants and UV filters have certain disadvantages, including that of affecting the sensory properties of the products, in particular by providing undesired effects.
• humectants especially polyols such as glycerine
• a physiologically acceptable medium can cause an alteration of the sensory properties of the products, providing a tacky effect, and reducing the aqueous sensation to the application.
• This sensory alteration which causes an impression of lack of moisturizing effectiveness to the application is all the more important that the polyol content is important.
• the polyols such as sugars and their derivatives
• the polyols are capable of forming formulas which "slip" at the application, making their penetration difficult, and which can provide a soaping effect to the application.
• These disadvantages are particularly noticeable when the polyol is a sugar derivative such as an alkylpolyglucoside and / or a sucrose ester or a glucose ether, very often used as emulsifiers.
• This soaping effect is all the stronger when the composition does not contain silicone fatty substance.
• UV filters With regard to sunscreens, their use in cosmetic compositions degrades the sensory pleasure of support architectures. Indeed, in general, the UV filters, depending on whether they are water-soluble or fat-soluble, bring different types of inconveniences or discomforts such as a tacky, greasy, coarse or sluggish effect on the skin, a lack of freshness, and comfort.
• cosmetic compositions which are both non-tacky, aqueous on application and contain a high level of a polyol, in particular a glycol such as this. than glycerine.
• compositions that provide little or no wet effect to the application, or sticky effect, without feeling greasy and whose drying time after application to the skin and / or nails is shortened compared to compositions known in the cosmetic field.
• the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the use of a synthetic phyllosilicate in combination with these polyols and / or polyol derivatives and / or UV filters, made it possible to obtain products which have no sticky effect, which do not "slip" and whose whitening effect during or after application is reduced.
• composition in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:
• composition of the invention comprises:
• composition of the invention comprises:
• composition of the invention comprises:
• composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, has a diffraction ray aux.
• X-rays greater than 9.4 ⁇ and less than or equal to 9.8 ⁇ .
• composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the Si-OH silanol groups at the edges of the phyllosilicate layers.
• composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, is characterized by an absence of an infrared absorption band at 7156 cm- 1 .
• This band at 7156 cm -1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
• composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm- 1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2 v Mg 3 OH.
• said synthetic phyllosilicate is used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.
• said synthetic phyllosilicate is used in a dry particulate form (or powder).
• said synthetic phyllosilicate is used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and in a dry particulate form (or powder).
• the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
• Synthetic phyllosilicates such as those described in application WO2008 / 009799 and advantageously those disclosed in patent application FR2977580, are particularly suitable for the invention.
• the combination considered according to the invention is particularly advantageous for (i) reducing the tackiness effect, and (ii) increasing the moisturizing effect of compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, in particular compositions for topical application, comprising polyols and / or polyol derivatives.
• compositions according to the invention slip less than a placebo formula, that is to say a formula not comprising synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention.
• compositions according to the invention also have a clean-skin finish.
• the subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use, of a composition as defined above, for the care of the skin and / or the nails by the topical route, in particular for the care of the skin of the body and / or or face, and / or nails.
• the subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment method, comprising the application on the skin and / or the nails by a topical route of a composition of the invention.
• the invention relates to the use of a synthetic phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg 3 Si 4 O 10 (OH) 2 as defined below, in a composition comprising at least one polyol or a polyol derivative. to reduce the sticky effect of said composition.
• the invention therefore also relates to the use of a synthetic phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg 3 SiO (OH) 2 as defined below, in a composition comprising at least one polyol or a polyol derivative, to increase the moisturizing effect of said composition.
• compositions comprising said polyols and / or derivatives.
• compositions comprising high levels of said polyols and / or derivatives, and more particularly comprising high levels of glycols.
• High levels of these polyols and / or derivatives, preferably of these glycols include in particular compositions comprising at least 20% by weight, at least 30% by weight of said polyol (s), preferably said glycols, by relative to the total weight of the composition.
• SPF sun protection factor
• the SPF value is the ratio of the minimum duration of sunburn to an antisolar composition to the one without a product. It is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter on the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter. This factor therefore concerns the effectiveness of the protection whose biological spectrum of action is mainly centered in the UVB and consequently, accounts for the protection with respect to this UV-B radiation.
• It also relates to a cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or nails and / or improving the color and / or the uniformity of the complexion, including the application to the surface of the skin and / or the nails.
• It also relates to a cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of the skin and / or nails comprising the application to the surface of the skin and / or the nails of at least one composition as defined above, said composition comprising at least one UV filter,
• composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application.
• the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention has a crystalline structure in accordance with that of a hydroxylated magnesium silicate of molecular formula M 3 SiO (OH) 2 belonging to the chemical family of phyllosilicates.
• phyllosilicates are generally constituted by a stack of elementary sheets of crystalline structure, the number of which varies from a few imitates to a few tens of units.
• Each elemental sheet is constituted by the association of two layers of tetrahedra, in which are positioned the silicon atoms, located on either side of a layer of octahedra in which the magnesium atoms are positioned.
• This group corresponds to phyllosilicates 2/1, also called type T .0.T. (tetrahedron-octahedron-tetrahedron).
• a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention can be obtained according to a preparation method such as that described in the application WO2008 / 009799 and is preferably obtained according to the technology described in application FR 2 977 580.
• This preparation process notably comprises a prolonged hydro-thermal treatment, which makes it possible to obtain an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate.
• the synthetic phyllosilicate can be implemented in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, in particular in the image of that directly obtained at the end of the synthesis process.
• the parameters which influence the synthesis and the properties of a synthetic phyllosilicate in the form of a gel which are suitable for the invention are the nature of the heat treatment (200 ° C. to 900 ° C.), the pressure, the nature of the reagents and their proportions.
• the duration and the temperature of the hydro-thermal treatment make it possible to control the size of the particles.
• the lower the temperature the smaller the synthesized particles as described in application FR 2 977 580.
• the size control makes it possible to provide new properties and better control of its hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties. , that is, amphiphilic.
• the gel as obtained at the end of the synthesis process may be subjected to a possible washing step with water / centrifugation, after which it is dried and crushed.
• the synthetic phyllosilicate is then available in powder form.
• the synthetic phyllosilicate considered according to the invention can also be formulated as a powder in a composition according to the invention.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention can be characterized by various parameters, namely infrared absorption bands, its size, its purity, as detailed below.
• the apparatus used is a Nicolet 6700 FTIR spectrometer with Fourier transform, equipped with an integrating sphere, with an InGaA detector and a CaF 2 separator and resolution of 12 cm- 5 , more preferably 8 cm- 1, and even more preferably 4 cm -1, that is to say the values of the infrared absorption bands given in this description are to be considered as being at plus or minus 6 cm -1 and more preferably at plus or minus 4 cm -1 and even more preferentially to plus or minus 2 cm "1 .
• a composition comprising at least one aqueous part, such as an emulsion
• the skilled person makes stretching enlargements, in particular, the latter can for example make such enlargements to plus or minus 200 cm -1 on either side of a suspected infrared absorption band.
• a natural talc is a mineral species composed of doubly hydroxylated magnesium silicate of formula Mg 3 Si40i o (OH) 2, which may contain traces of nickel, iron, aluminum, calcium or sodium.
• Natural talc exhibits an infrared spectrum having a typical infrared absorption band, fine and intense, of 7184 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2 v Mg 3 OH
• the natural talc usually has chemical elements substituting for magnesium and to silicon in the crystalline structure which impose the appearance of at least one additional infrared absorption band, in particular that corresponding to the extensional vibration of 7156 cm -1 attributable to 2 v Mg 2 FeOH.
• the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention differs from a natural talc by an infrared absorption band of 7200 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the Si-OH silanol groups at the edges of the phyllosilicate layers.
• the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate is also characterized by an absence of a weaker absorption band of 7156 cm -1 This 7156 cm -1 band corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
• the spectrum of synthetic phyllosilicate is also characterized by the infrared absorption band of 7184 cm -1 common to natural talc.
• composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm -1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the Si-OH silanol groups at the edges of the phyllosilicate layers.
• composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate, is characterized by an absence of an infrared absorption band of 7156 cm -1 This band at 7156 cm -1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
• composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate. also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm- 1 corresponding to the stretching vibration Mg30H.
• a wide infrared absorption band is detectable, easily identifiable, for example 5500cm- 1 .
• the particle size measurement obtained by this technique corresponds to the value of the hydrodynamic diameter of the particle, that is to say that it comprises both the size of the particle but also the thickness of the hydration layer.
• the analyzes were carried out using a VASCO-2 granulometer from Cordouan.
• the NanoQ TM software was used in multi-acquisition mode with the Padé-Laplace algorithm.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention when in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, advantageously has an average size ranging from 300 nm to 500 nm.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate when it is used in the form of a powder may have an average size ranging from a few microns to several hundred microns, preferably ranging from 5 ⁇ to 100 ⁇ , or may be in the form of porous micron or plurimicron aggregates composed of said particles.
• the synthetic phyllosilicate considered according to the invention has a degree of purity of at least 99.90%, preferably at least 99.99%.
• the 29 silicon ( 29 Si) NMR spectra were recorded on a BRUKER Avance 400 (9.4 T) spectrometer.
• the reference for chemical shifts is tetramethylsilane (TMS).
• TMS tetramethylsilane
• the samples were placed in 4 mm zirconia rotors.
• the rotation speed around the magic angle (MAS) was set at 8kHz.
• the experiments were performed at room temperature of 21 ° C.
• the 29 Si spectra were obtained either by direct polarization (rotation of 30 °) with a recycling time of 60 s or by cross polarization (CP) between 1H and 29 Si (recycling time of 5 s and contact time of 3 ms).
• Thermogravimetric analysis of a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention shows a lower thermal stability (around 800 ° C.) than that of natural talc and it is characterized by four losses of mass unlike natural talc which has none only one, around 900 ° C.
• a composition comprising at least one aqueous part, such as an emulsion
• the X-ray diffractogram of the synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention has the same positions of the diffraction lines as those of natural talc, with the exception of a line. Indeed, the natural talc has a diffraction line at 9.36 ⁇ while the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention has a diffraction line greater than 9.4 ⁇ , and up to 9.8 ⁇ .
• the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention has a diffraction line greater than 9.4 ⁇ and less than or equal to 9.8 ⁇ .
• the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention preferably has a diffraction line greater than or equal to 9.5 ⁇ , advantageously greater than or equal to 9.6 ⁇ , and preferably greater than or equal to 9.7 ⁇ .
• the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention preferably has a diffraction line less than or equal to 9.7 ⁇ , advantageously less than or equal to 9.6 ⁇ , and preferably less than or equal to 9.5 ⁇ .
• the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention may furthermore have a diffraction line of between 4.60 ⁇ and 4.80 ⁇ , and / or a diffraction line. between 3.10 ⁇ and 3.20 ⁇ and / or a diffraction line between 1.51 ⁇ and 1.53 ⁇ .
• a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is devoid of interfoliary cations. Indeed, this characteristic is demonstrated by the absence of an X-ray diffraction line located at a distance of between 12.00 ⁇ and 18.00 ⁇ , usually revealing a swelling phase with interfoliary spaces in which there are interfoliary cations and possible water molecules.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight. 1% by weight, still more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 11% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, and even better ranging from 2% by weight % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• % by weight means “% by weight of dry matter” or “% by weight of active material"
• a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention when in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, it may constitute part but also totally the aqueous phase of the composition containing it.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention when in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 1 to % to 15% by weight, still more preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
• polyol refers to organic molecules comprising at least two hydroxyl functional groups (OH).
• OH hydroxyl functional groups
• polyol within the meaning of the invention, is meant in particular: a linear hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or
• a linear saturated hydrocarbon chain branched or unbranched, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, for example polyethylene glycols (PEG) having from 4 to 8; ethylene glycol units.
• PEG polyethylene glycols
• the polyol of the composition according to the invention has a linear saturated hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched.
• the polyol comprises a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprises from 2 to 12, and more preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
• the polyols of the composition according to the invention may be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and glycerol. , glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol, preferably glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and propane-3-diol, and mixtures thereof.
• the polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and glycerine.
• the polyol is glycerin.
• the polyois derivatives include in particular polyois esters and ethers.
• the polyois and their derivatives are especially present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• sucrose sucrose
• maltose glucose
• fructose simple sugars
• sugars considered by the invention may be present in their D or L forms. In this respect, sugars can be considered as particular polyols.
• Sugar and sugar derivatives may in particular act as a moisturizing active agent or the emulsifying agent or both.
• the sugars and their derivatives are chosen from esters and mixtures of optionally oxyalkylenated sugar fatty acid esters, for example oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated, alkyl polyglucosides, and carbohydrates of the ose family, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides, in particular oxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, and mixtures thereof.
• optionally oxyalkylenated sugar fatty acid esters for example oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated, alkyl polyglucosides, and carbohydrates of the ose family, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides, in particular oxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, and mixtures thereof.
• the sugars and their derivatives are chosen from alkylpolyglucosides.
• the sugars and their derivatives are chosen from carbohydrates of the family of oses, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides.
• Sugar Fatty Acid Esters are chosen from carbohydrates of the family of oses, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides.
• the sugar fatty acid ester (s) may be monoesters or polyesters of sugar or alkyl sugar fatty acid. They may be oxyalkylenated, for example oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated.
• the sugar fatty acid ester is selected from sucrose mono stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, sucrose monolaurate, saccharose monococoate, methyl glucose mono stearate. methyl glucose and polyglycerol-3 distearate, methyl e-o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside, and mixtures thereof, preferably sucrose mono-stearate. .
• the fatty acids in CB-C22 (preferably in C12-C22, and even more preferably in C14-C22), forming the fatty unit of the esters that can be used according to the invention comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain. saturated or unsaturated having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms (preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms).
• the fatty unit of the esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, cocoates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, oleates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.
• the sugar unit of the sugar fatty acid ester (s) is chosen from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, trehalose, methylglucose.
• sucrose or glucose is preferably used.
• esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose include sucrose mono stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and the like. and mixtures thereof, such as the products marketed in particular by Croda under the name CRODESTA F50, F70, Fl10, F160 respectively having a HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of 5, 7, 11 and 16, sucrose mono-stearate sold especially by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the reference TEGOSOFT PSE 141 G, sucrose monolaurate, such as the product sold under the name Grilloten LES 65, and sucrose monococoate sold in particular under the name Grilloten Les 5K, by the company GRILLO- WERKE, and as an example of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and methyl glucose, methyl glucose mono stearate, such as the product sold under the name Grillocose 1S by the company GRILL O WERKE,
• glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl ⁇ -hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.
• Sucrose mono stearate is preferred, in particular that marketed by Evonik Goldschmidt under the reference TEGOSOFT PSE 141 G (97% sucrose stearate / 3% water).
• the optionally polyalkoxylated alkyl polyglucoside (s) may be chosen from compounds of the following general formula:
• RIO- (G) a in which R 1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkyl phenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the group G a sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number from 1 to 10.
• C14-C22 fatty acids and methyl glucose may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and glucose, maltose, sucrose, or fructose and ethers or mixtures of alcohol ethers.
• the fatty unit of the ethers may in particular be chosen from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, iauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl, octyldodecyl and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.
• the HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of these surfactants is preferably between 8 and 18.
• alkyl polyglucoside is chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl polyglucoside and their mixture, preferably cetearyl glucoside and rarachidyl glucoside.
• alkylpolyglucosides mention may be made of the decyl glucoside and the lauryl glucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names PLANTAREN 2000 and PLANT AREN 1200, cetearyl glucoside, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO Care CG90 by Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE 3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and of aracliidyl glucoside marketed in particular under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35/65) marketed in particular under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic.
• PLANTAREN 2000 and PLANT AREN 1200 cetearyl
• the alkylpolyglucoside (s) are chosen from cetearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by the company Seppic, under the name TEGO Care CG90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE E 3302 by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed in particular under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35/65) marketed in particular under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic.
• Carbohydrate of the family of oses, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides Carbohydrate is any organic molecule containing a carbonyl group (aldehyde or ketone) and several hydroxyl groups (-OH). Carbohydrates were historically called carbohydrates or carbohydrates. Their chemical formula is based on the model C n (H20) p (hence the historical name). However, this model is not suitable for all carbohydrates, some of which contain heteroatoms such as nitrogen or phosphorus.
• Carbohydrates usually include:
• monosaccharides or oses that are simple, non-hydrolyzable molecules forming crystals. They are of two types: (a) aldoses comprising an aldehyde function on the first carbon and ketoses comprising a ketone function on the second carbon. They are also distinguished according to the number of carbon atoms they possess.
• Oligosaccharides or oligosides which are osteoside polymers having a chain of monosaccharides comprising from 2 to 10 monosaccharide units united by glycosidic linkages.
• polysaccharides which are osteoside polymers having a chain of monosaccharides greater than 10 units (eg amylose, amylopectin, cellulose, glycogen).
• homopolyosides are the carbohydrates whose hydrolysis gives a single type of risk.
• - Heterosides and heteropolyosides are carbohydrates whose hydrolysis does not give a single type of risk. These are polymers of oste and non-carbohydrate molecule (s).
• s oste and non-carbohydrate molecule
• the invention relates to carbohydrates of the family of:
• trioses having 3 carbons dihydroxyacetone, glyceraldehyde;
• pentoses having 5 carbons ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, deoxyribose;
• hexoses having 6 carbons allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, fucose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fuculose, psicose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, quinovose, pneumose, rhamnose;
• heptoses having 7 carbons sedoheptulose, glucoheptose, idoheptulose, marmoheptulose, taloheptulose;
• trehalose and / or hexoses and more particularly glucose, mannose, rhamnose, and fucose will be used.
• oligosaccharides in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose, as well as compounds containing one or more sugars, and mixtures thereof.
• alkyl derivatives such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose
• compounds containing one or more sugars and mixtures thereof.
• a compound containing a sugar or a mixture of sugars mention may be made of natural compounds such as honey, and polymers such as, for example, the product sold under the name "fucogel 1000" by the company Solabia (CTFA name Biosaccharide gum-1), polymer containing fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid.
• oligosaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
• disaccharides or diholosides or diosides composed of two molecules of oste and which may be reducing or non-reducing The term “non-reducing disaccharide” any disaccharide, the carbon 1 carrying the hemiacetal OH is engaged in a bond, ie the hemiacetal function is not free.
• disaccharide reducer any disaccharide therefore the hemiacetal function is free.
• non-reducing disaccharides mention may be made of sucrose and trehalose.
• reducing disaccharides mention may be made of lactose, maltose, cellobiose, isomaltose and meiotomy.
• dextrins and cyclodextrins which are mixtures of linear gluco-oligosaccharides (glucose oligosides), the glucose units of which are linked by ⁇ - (1,4) - type osidic bonds, but whose grouping is linked by an ⁇ - (1,6) osidic bond.
• homopolysaccharides consisting of the same monosaccharide are considered here: fructans, glucans, galactans, mannan, for example; can be linear, branched or mixed.
• fructan for example tinuline, which is a polyholoside composed of fructose units linked by a ⁇ (2 ⁇ 1) bond; the fructose chain ending in ⁇ -D-glucose;
• homopolymers of glucan whose starches, for example, which are non-reducing homogeneous polyholosides consisting of two compounds: amylose (water-soluble), a glucose polymer bound by an ⁇ (1 ⁇ 4) bond (20 to 30%) , and amylopectin (insoluble), branched amylose via a (1 ⁇ 6) bond (70 to 80%).
• amylose water-soluble
• a glucose polymer bound by an ⁇ (1 ⁇ 4) bond (20 to 30%)
• amylopectin insoluble
• branched amylose via a (1 ⁇ 6) bond 70 to 80%.
• glycogen which at structure level is almost identical to starch: it has more ramifications than starch (one branch every 10 glucose residues), the rest of the structure is identical to starch . Its molar mass is higher (of the order of 106 g / mol).
• Cellulose too, which is a polyholoside homogeneous glucose linked by a ⁇
• agar-agar for example, which is a mixed polyholoside consisting of D- and L-galactose esterified with sulfuric acid. or carrageenans.
• xylose xylanes
• mannose mannose
• the carbohydrate (s) are chosen from the monosaccharides.
• the compounds chosen from the sugars and their derivatives are chosen from sucrose esters, glucose esters, glucose ethers, rhamnose, mannose, trehalose, fucose.
• the emulsifiers derived from sugar are chosen from:
• esters of sucrose or glucose and of fatty acid for example, sucrose palmitostearate.
• alkyl polyglucosides such as MONTANOV (s) from SEPPIC, MONTANOV 202, 68 or even 82.
• alkyl polyglucosides may be suitable as emulsifiers within the meaning of the invention.
• ALKYL (C8 / C10 / C12 / C14 34/24/29/10)
• PLANTA C ARE POLYGLUCOSIDE (1, 4) IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION COGN1S (BASF) 2000 UP
• composition within the meaning of the invention may comprise at least one moisturizing agent of the sugar type.
• hydrating agent of the sugar type in the sense of the present invention is meant hygroscopic substances of the family of:
• GAG glycosaminoglycans
• mucopolysaccharides that have a high water retention capacity.
• a polyol which is suitable for the invention is a sugar or a sugar derivative, in particular chosen from oses, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides and glycosaminoglycans; said oligosaccharides and polysaccharides may be linear, branched or mixed, and consist of the same monosaccharide or different monosaccharides, in particular the same monosaccharide, and mixtures thereof.
• a sugar which is suitable for the invention is a sugar fatty acid ester chosen from: esters or mixtures of C 8 -C 22 fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of C14-C22 fatty acid esters and C1-C4 alkylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
• the polyol or polyols suitable for the invention are chosen from: trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses. octoses and oses having more than 8 carbons; said oses may be present in their D or L forms.
• the sugars are in particular chosen from Rhamnose, Mannose, Trehalose, Talose, Fucose, Ribose, Idose, Arabinose, Gulose, Xylose, Lyxose, Altrose, Allose, Glucose, Mannose, Galactose, Lactose, Sucrose, Cellobiose, Maltose, Fucose (1-3) Glucose and Fructose, more particularly Rhamnose and Mannose, and mixtures thereof.
• the level of sugar, or sugar derivative, in the composition as described in the invention may in particular vary from 0.1 to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention contain at least one UV filter. More particularly, the UV filter that is suitable for the invention is chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters, insoluble organic UV filters, inorganic UV filters, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the UV filter that is suitable for the invention is chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters and insoluble organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
• the UV filter that is suitable for the invention is chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
• organic UV hydrosulfide filter any organic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid aqueous phase.
• liposoluble organic UV filter any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering the UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in an oily phase or else to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oily phase.
• insoluble organic UV filter any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and triglycerides of fatty acids, for example Miglyol 812 ® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL.
• This solubility, performed at 70 ° C is defined as the amount of product in solution in the equilibrium solvent with an excess of suspended solid after return to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.
• water-soluble organic UVA filter any organic compound filtering the UVA radiation in the wavelength range 320 to 400 nm capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or of be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
• hydrodrosoluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of:
• Benzene acid l 4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications F -A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347.
• hydrophilic organic UVA filters that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups containing sulphonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US Pat. No. 2,463,264 and the patent application EP-A-0669323.
• Z represents an organic residue of valence (1 + n) having one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the double bond system of at least two benzoazolyl groups as defined within the brackets for form a totally conjugate set;
• R 1 denotes hydrogen, C 1 -C 18 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy, C 5 -C 15 aryl, C 2 -C 18 acyloxy, SO 3 Y or COOY;
• radicals R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 identical or different, denotes a nitro group or a radical R 1 ;
• R 6 denotes hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl
• Y denotes hydrogen, Li, Na, NH 4 , 1/2a, 1/2 Mg, 1/3 Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group by an organic nitrogen base;
• n 0 or 1
• n is a number from 2 to 6;
• - 1. is a number from 1 to 4;
• radicals Z as defined in paragraphs (a), (b) and (c) may be substituted by C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 alkoxy, phenoxy, hydroxy, methylenedioxy or amino optionally substituted by a or 2 C 1 -C 5 alkyl radicals.
• the compounds of formula (II) contain, per molecule of 1, 3 or 4 SO3Y groups.
• compounds of formula (II) used mention may be made of compounds of formulas (a) to (j) with the following structure and salts thereof:
• 1,4-bis-benzylidazolyl-phenyl] en-3 acid is particularly preferred ; 3 '5 5,5'-tétrasiilfonique (I CI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) (compound (d)) or one of its salts of the following structure sold especially under the name NEOHELIOPAN AP® by Symrise :
• benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulphonic acid function, for example the following compounds:
• Benzene-1,4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulphonic acid) and its various salts (NIC name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) manufactured by CHIMEX under the name commercial MEXO YL SX ® .
• the water-soluble organic UVB filters are especially chosen from:
• water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as femicic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxyxycinnamic acid
• PABA water-soluble p-aminobenzoic compounds
• water-soluble organic UVB filters examples include those referred to below under their INC1 name:
• Dipropylenegiycol salicylate sold especially under the name “Dipsal ®” by Scher
• TEA salicylate sold especially under the name “Neo Heliopan TS ®” by Symrise
• Phenylbenzimidazolesulphonic acid sold especially under the trade name "Eusolex 232 ®” by Merck.
• the liposoluble organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives: benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from -alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 1339
• Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyimethane or avobenzone sold for sale under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by the company DSM NUTR1TIONAL PRODUCTS;
• Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name. "ESCALOL 507" by ISP;
• Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS,
• Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL 400" by BASF
• Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL D50” by BASF
• Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF
• Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name "Helisorb 1 1" by Norquay
• Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid
• UVINUL A + 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate of n-hexyl sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL A +" such as “UVINUL A + G ANULAR” or in the form of a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate, especially under the trade name UVINUL A + B by BASF;
• Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF,
• Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM;
• the preferred liposomeous organic filters are chosen from:
• the preferred lipophilic organic filters are chosen more particularly from:
• Drometrizole Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof are liquid at room temperature (20-25 ° C) under 1 atmosphere.
• the insoluble organic UV filters according to the invention preferably have an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 ⁇ and more preferably! from 0.01 to 2 ⁇ and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 ⁇ .
• the average particle diameter was measured by a particle size distribution analyzer of the Culter N4 PLUS type manufactured by Bechman Coulter INC.
• the insoluble organic filters according to the invention can be brought into the desired particulate form by any ad-hoc means such as in particular dry milling or in a solvent medium, sieving, atomization, micronisation, spraying.
• the insoluble organic filters according to the invention in micronized form can in particular be obtained by a method of grinding an insoluble organic UV filter in the form of coarse particles in the presence of an appropriate surfactant for improving the dispersion. particles thus obtained in cosmetic formulations.
• the grinding apparatus used according to these documents can be a jet mill, ball mill, vibration or hammer and preferably a high speed grinder or an impact mill and more particularly a rotary ball mill, a vibrating mill, tube mill or a rod mill.
• alkylpolyglucosides having the structure nH2n + 1 O (C6H10O) xH in which n is an integer of 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the polymer, are used as surfactants for the grinding of said filters.
• unit (C ⁇ HKIOS) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6. They can be chosen from C1-C12 esters of a compound of structure Cnfbn + i 0 (C 6 HioO5) xH and more precisely an ester obtained by reaction of a carboxylic acid C1-C12 such as the acid formic, acetic, propionic, butyric, sulfosuccinic. citric or tartaric with one or more free OH functions on the unit glucoside (ChIOOs). Mention may be made, as alkylpolyglucoside, in particular of decylglucoside.
• Said surfactants are generally used at a concentration ranging from 1 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the insoluble filter in its micronized form.
• the insoluble organic UV filters in accordance with the invention may be chosen especially from organic UV filters of the oxalanilide type, of the triazine type, of the benzotriazole type; vinyl amide type; of the cinnamide type; of the type comprising one or more benzazole and / or benzofuran, benzothiophene or indole groups; aryl vinylene ketone type; phenylene bis-benzoxazinone derivative type, amide derivative type, sulfonamide or acrylonitrile carbamate or mixtures thereof.
• benzazole includes both benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles and benzimidazoles.
• UV filters of the oxalanilide type in accordance with the invention mention may be made of those having the structure:
• T 1, T 1, T 2 and T 2 denote, identical and different, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical or a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy radical.
• Examples include the commercial products TINUVIN 315 and TINUVIN ® 312 ® sold by BASF and structure respectively:
• Te is Ci -Cjalkyl or cinnamyl.
• T7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C18 alkyl radical
• Tg and T9 identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical optionally substituted with a phenyl.
• insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the compounds as described in US Pat. No. 5,687,552, US Pat. No. 5,373,037 and US Pat. No. 5,362,881, and in particular [2,4'-dihydroxy] 3- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -5- (1,1,3,3-tetranylethylbutyl) -2'-n-octoxy-5'-benzoyl] diphenylimethane sold in particular under the name MIXXIM PB30® by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL of structure:
• radicals T 10 and Tn which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical which may be substituted by one or more radicals chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or an aryl radical.
• radicals T 10 and Tn which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical which may be substituted by one or more radicals chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or an aryl radical.
• the alkyl groups Ci-Ci may be linear or branched and are for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, tert-octyl, n-aryl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, isooctyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexydecyl, or octadecyl; C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl groups are, for example, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cyclooctyl; aryl groups are for example phenyl, benzyl.
• the compound (c) of 2,2'-methylene-bis- [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] is sold in particular in solid form under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 200. ® by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL.
• insoluble organic vinylidide type filters there may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of the following formula which are described in application WO95 / 22959 (forming an integral part of the content of the description):
• Ti5 and Ti6 which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C18 alkyl radical, preferably a C1-C5 alkyl radical, or a hydrogen atom;
• Y is N or O and r is 0 or 1.
• OTi8 is a hydroxy or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy or ethoxy
• T 1g is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, preferably methyl or ethyl
• T 21 is C 1 -C 18 alkyl and more preferably T 21 is phenyl, 4-methoxyphenyl or phenylaminocarbonyl.
• cinnamamide dimers such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,888,481, for example the compound of structure:
• each of X is independently oxygen or sulfur or NR 2
• each of Z independently represents a nitrogen atom or a CH group
• each of the symbols R 1 independently represents an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C 1-6 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, or a linear or branched C 1-6 alkoxy group;
• each of the numbers m is independently 0, 1 or 2
• n an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive
• p 0 or 1
• each of the numbers q is independently equal to 0 or 1
• each of the symbols R2 independently represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl or benzyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom,
• A represents a radical of valence n chosen from those of formulas:
• each of the symbols R 3 independently represents a halogen atom or a linear or branched C 1-4 alkyl or alkoxy group, or hydroxy
• R represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1-4 alkyl group, linear or branched
• c 0 - 4
• d 0 - 3
• e 0 or 1
• f 0 - 2.
• Examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the benzofuranyl-benzoxazole family are 2- (2-benzofuranyl) -benzoxazole, 2- (benzofuranyl) -5-methylbenzoxazole and 2- (3-benzofuranyl) benzoxazoles. 2-methyl-2-benzofuranyl) -benzoxazole, these compounds can be prepared according to the procedures described in US Patent 5,518,713.
• Preferred compounds of formula (VIII) include, for example, 2,6-diphenyl-1,7-dihydro-benzo [1,2-d; 4,5-d] -di-imidazole corresponding to the formula or 2,6-distyryl-1,7-dihydro-benzo [1,2-d; 4,5-d1-diimidazole or 2,6-di (p-tert-butylstyryl) -1,7-dihydrobenzo [1,2-d; 4,5-d '] - di-imidazole, which can be prepared according to the application EP 0 669 323.
• 2- (1H-benzimidazol-2-yl) benzoxazole, goose, 6-methoxy-2,2'-bis-benzimidazole, 2- (1H) are particularly preferred.
• n ' 1 or 2
• each of the symbols Rs independently represents an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C 1-6 alkyl group and optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C 1-6 alkoxy group and containing optionally a silicon atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkoxycarbonyl group, or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkylsulfonamide group optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function,
• p represents an integer between 0 and 4 inclusive
• O represents hydrogen, a C 1-6 alkyl group, linear or branched and optionally containing a silicon atom, a cyano group, a C 1-6 alkylsulfonyl group, a phenylsulfonyl group,
• R represents an alkyl group - 6 linear or branched and optionally containing a silicon atom or a phenyl group which may form a bicycle and optionally substituted with one or two radicals R 4,
• compounds of the benzylidene thiochromanone type such as those described in patent application JP 04 134 043, such as 3- (4-methoxy-benzylidene) -2,3 5 4a, 8a-tetrahydro-chromen-4-thione: compounds of the benzylidene quinuclidinone type such as those described in application EP 0 576 974, such as 4-methoxbenzylidene-1-azabicyclo [2.2.2] octan-3-one:
• benzylidene barbiturate compounds such as 5 - (4-methoxybenzylidene) -1,3-dimethyl-pyrimidine-2,4,6-trione:
• benzylidene imidazolone compounds such as 5- (4-methoxybenzylidene) -2-phenyl-3,5-dihydro-imidazo-4-one:
• chalcone-type compounds such as 1- (2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl) -3-phenylpropenone:
• phenylene bis methylidenecamphor sulfonamide such as those described in document FR-2 529 887 such as l, 4-phenylene-bis-3, 3 '-methylidene camphre- ⁇ , ⁇ '-sulfonamide ethyl or 2 -ethylhexyl:
• phenylene bis-methylidene quinuclidinone compounds such as those described in patent application EP 0 714 880, such as 1,4-phenylenebis (2-methylidene-1-aza-bicyclo [2.2.2] octan-3-one ⁇ :
• R representing a divalent aromatic radical chosen from the following formulas (e) to (h):
• each of the symbols Rg independently represents an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C 1-6 alkyl group optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C 1-6 alkoxy group and optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C 1-5 alkoxycarbonyl group, or a linear or branched C 1-4 alkylsulfonamide group optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function,
• p represents an integer between 0 and 4 inclusive
• Rio represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, ⁇ '"is 0, 1 or 2,
• Y represents a radical or -SO2R13
• Ru represents a single bond or a divalent radical C1-C30 alkylene or alkenylene C3-C30, linear or branched, may carry one or more hydroxyl substituents and may contain, in the carbon chain, one or more heteroatoms selected from the atoms of oxygen, nitrogen and silicon,
• R12 represents a radical -OR H OR -NHR14
• R 13 represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, or a phenyl nucleus which is unsubstituted or substituted by C 1 -C 4 alkyl or alkoxy radicals,
• Ru represents an alkyl radical C1-C30 or alkenyie C3-C30, linear or branched, may carry one or more hydroxyl substituents and may contain, in the carbon chain, one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen atoms, nitrogen and silicon.
• polyvalent metal salts for example Ca 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Ba 2+ , Al 3+ or Zr 4+
• organic sulphonic filters or carboxylic acids
• polyvalent metal salts of sulfonated benzylidene camphor derivatives such as those described in application FR-A-2,639,347
• polyvalent metal salts of sulfonated benzimidazole derivatives such as those described in EP-A-893119
• polyvalent metal salts of cinnamic acid derivatives such as those described in JP-87 166 517.
• insoluble organic UV-screening agents mention may also be made of the compound 1,1 '- (1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] -methanone (CAS 919803 -06-8 of following structure:
• insoluble organic UV screening agents chosen from
• radicals Tio and Tu which are identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical which may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or an aryl radical;
• the methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds of formula (IV) are in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 ⁇ m and more preferably from 0.01 to 5 ⁇ m. , 01 to 2 ⁇ and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 ⁇ m with at least one surfactant of structure CnLhn + i 0 (C6H10O) xH in which n is an integer of 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (CeHioOs) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6 as defined above.
• Said surfactant is preferably used at a concentration ranging from 1 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the benzotriazole filter and the amount of benzotriazole filter of formula (I) in the aqueous dispersion varies. preferably from 10 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
• the average particle diameter was measured by a particle size distribution analyzer of the Culter N4 PLUS® type manufactured by Bechman Coulter INC.
• the methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds of formula (IV) may be in the form of aqueous dispersio of particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 ⁇ and more prefer! from 0.01 to 1.5 ⁇ and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 ⁇ in the presence of at least one mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglycerol ester having a glycerol polymerization degree of at least Such as the aqueous dispersions described in WO2009 / 063392.
• polyglyceryl mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglycol surfactants include decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate, decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl stearate, decaglyceryl isostearate, hexaglyceryl caprate, hexaglyceryl laurate, hexaglyceryl myristate, hexaglyceryl oleate, hexaglyceryl stearate, hexaglyceryl isostearate, pentaglyceryl caprate, pentaglyceryl laurate, myristate pentaglyceryl, pentaglycerol oleate, pentaglyceryl stearate, pentaglyceryl isostearate.
• hexagleryl caprate such as the products sold under the following trade names NIKKOL Hexaglyn l '' by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd, GLYSURF 6 ML by Aoki Oil Industrial Co. Ltd., UNIGLY GL-106 ® by Nippon Oil & Fats Co. Ltd.,
• Nikkol Hexaglyn 1-M ® Nikkol Hexaglyn SV-1 ® by Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.
• EMALEXMSG-6K Nihon-Emulsion Co. company Ltd.
• UNIGLY GL-106 by Nippon Oil & Fats Co. Ltd.
• polyglyceryl mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglyceryl surfactants having a degree of polymerization having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 having an HLB greater than or equal to 14.5, include caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl, decaglyceryl stearate, isostearate, decaglyceryl laurate hexaglyceryl, pentaglycéryle caprate, laurate pentaglycéryle , pentaglyceryl myristate, pentaglycerol penteate, pentaglyceryl stearate.
• polyglyceryl mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl ester surfactants having a degree of polymerization having a glycerol polymerization degree of at least 5 having an HLB greater than or equal to 15, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate.
• the amount of methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compound of formula (IV) in the aqueous dispersion preferably ranges from 10 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
• the weight ratio of methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) / mono- (C 8 -C 20) alkyl polyglycerol compound varies from 0.05 to 0.5 and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.3.
• TINOSORB M® such as the commercial product sold under the name TINOSORB M® by BASF which is an aqueous dispersion comprising decylglucoside, xanthan gum and propylene glycol (Nom Ini: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside ( and) Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum).
• the inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average particle size elementary less than or equal to 0.5 ⁇ , more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 ⁇ and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 ⁇ , more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 ⁇ , and more particularly preferably between 0.015 and 0.05 ⁇ .
• Elementary average size means the size of non-aggregated particles. They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.
• Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are in particular described in the patent application EP-A-0518 773.
• commercial pigments can be mentioned in particular the products sold companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK AND DEGUSS A.
• the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
• the coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one. or several surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, salts sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
• compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, salts sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
• coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "SUNVEIL” from the company 1KEDA,
• silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F” from the company IKEDA,
• silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA” and “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA” from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL” from the company TIOXIDE,
• alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)” and “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)” from the company ISHTHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,
• silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ” from the company Tayca, alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product MI MITIC ANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S from TAYCA,
• iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F” from the company TAYCA,
• silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS” from the company TAYCA,
• silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,
• triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S” from TITAN KOGYO,
• stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)” from the company ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W” from the company TAYCA.
• TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold in particular under the trade name "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices,
• T1O2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese.
• said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion.
• the oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids.
• the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents, for example an ester of sorbitan as ⁇ sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE.
• the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. More particularly, mention may be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO 2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE by name: TITANIUM DiOXIDE (and) TRY-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICI OLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE as the product sold in particular under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 by the company CRODA.
• TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE by name: TIT
• the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25”, by the company WAC HER under the name “transparent titanium oxide PW”, by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name “UFTR”, by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS” and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ” .
• the uncoated zinc oxide pigments for example:
• Nanogard WCD 2025 those marketed in particular under the name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies;
• coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
• Zinc Oxide CS-5" those marketed in particular under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
• Nanophase Technologies as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, benzoate of C12-C18 alcohols
• those marketed in particular under the name “DAITOPERSION Zn-30” and “DAITOPERSION Zn-50” by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane; );
• Escalol ZI 00 those marketed in particular under the name "Escalol ZI 00" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone);
• Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 those marketed in particular under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
• Nanox Gel TN those marketed in particular under the name "Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
• Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE” by the company RHONE POULENC.
• Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “NANOGARD 1RON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ,” NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name” TY-220 ".
• coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008” (FE 45B FN) ",” NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) ",” NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 “,” NANOGARD FE 45 BL “, or by the company BASF under the name” OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON ".
• titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide including the titanium dioxide / cerium dioxide-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SIJNVEIL A”, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261" sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerine such as the product "
• titanium oxide pigments coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.
• the UV filter (s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
• the liposoluble organic UV filters are chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and their mixtures, more preferably chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
• ethylhexyl salicylate octocrylene
• n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate trisiloxane drometrizole, bis-ethylhexylox phenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof and even more preferably selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene and mixtures thereof.
• the water-soluble organic UV filters are chosen from benzylidene camphor compounds, phenyl benzimidazole compounds and mixtures thereof and more preferentially chosen from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
• UV filters that are suitable for the invention are present in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight and more preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention can be advantageously cosmetic or dermatological.
• composition according to the invention being intended for topical application to the skin and / or the nails, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
• physiologically acceptable medium means a medium compatible with the skin and / or the nails.
• the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and that does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.
• the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
• water-soluble solvent in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).
• the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
• the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight. , relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.
• polyol is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
• a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
• a polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at minus four functions -OH.
• the polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
• the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
• said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
• composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.
• composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
• the aqueous phase may be composed of a synthetic phyliosilicate suitable for the invention in gel form, alone or in combination with other gelling agents.
• a synthetic phyliosilicate that is suitable for the invention can be used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.
• the gel When the gel is aqueous, it can then constitute all or part of the aqueous phase. As such, it plays the role of rheological agent, stabilizer of the emulsion, Thus the stability of the final composition is improved.
• This property also applies when the synthetic phyllosilicate gel suitable for the invention is used in combination with other aqueous gelling agents.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention in the form of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel constitutes the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, that is to say that the aqueous phase of the composition consists exclusively of this gel.
• the fatty phase includes any fatty liquid, generally oils (also called liquid or oily fatty phase), or solid like waxes or pasty compounds (also called solid fatty phase).
• a liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil.
• oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure.
• An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.
• the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
• oils of plant origin are preferred.
• non-volatile oil means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
• silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
• fluorinated oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
• hydrocarbon oil an oil containing mainly hydroene and carbon atoms.
• oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals.
• volatile oil is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg); mm Hg).
• Volatile oils which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa
• the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon or silicone.
• volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made of C 6 -C 16 branched alkanes, for example iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffms) at C 6 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane. and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C 8 -C 18 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
• iso-alkanes also known as isoparaffms
• the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
• volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to
• 16 carbon atoms especially 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C 14), sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the WO 2008/155059 application of the Cognis Company, and mixtures thereof.
• C12 n-dodecane
• C 14 n-tetradecane
• Silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
• linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
• cyclic silicone volatile oils hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
• the non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
• non-volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may notably be made of:
• hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,
• R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R 1 + R 2 is ⁇ 10.
• the esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, and the like.
• alcohol and fatty acid esters for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, and the like.
• polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate
• C12-C22 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
• the 'non-phenylated silicone oils such as the caprylyl conjunctionthycone and phenyl silicone oils, such as, for example, phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.
• phenyl silicone oils such as, for example, phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl
• a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils.
• a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this oily phase. res
• the term "wax” means a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C. that can go up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.
• the waxes that can be used in the invention are solid compounds at room temperature, intended to structure the composition, in particular in the form of a stick; they may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting temperature of greater than 40 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.
• waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetics field: they are in particular of natural origin, such as beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, fiber wax, of cork or sugar cane, rice. Montan, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or Pozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides concretes at 40 ° C. and better at 45 ° C.
• natural origin such as beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, fiber wax, of cork or sugar cane, rice.
• Montan paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes
• silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly (di) methylsiloxane esters which are solid at 40 ° C. and whose ester chain contains at least 10 carbon atoms ; and their mixtures.
• a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. .
• the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a Cs-C30 alkyl group
• liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C1-C50 diols, the esters,
• a composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 99%, better from 1 to 60%, better still from 2 to 30% and better still from 5 to 20% by weight of compound (s) pasty relative to total weight of the composition.
• fatty substances may also be present in the oily phase, for example fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol).
• fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid
• fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol).
• the liquid fatty phase may other compounds solubilized in oils such as gelling agents and / or structuring agents.
• oils such as gelling agents and / or structuring agents.
• These compounds may especially be chosen from gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C 1 -4 -alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone 3a, and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu. under the name “Trefil” by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil” by the company Grant Industries; and their mixtures.
• All the aforementioned fatty substances may be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
• the proportion of fat phase will be chosen according to the direction of the emulsion.
• a composition according to the invention does not contain a silicone fatty substance.
• the fatty phase may thus be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 80%, better still ranging from 5% to 70% and even more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional agents chosen from antioxidants, plasticizing agents, coalescing agents, preserving agents, thickening agents, perfumes, neutralizers, spreading agents, anti-foaming agents, dispersing agents, and stabilizing agents, especially chosen from surfactants and / or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic, semi-crystalline polymers, sweeteners, vitamins, trace elements, anti-blocking agents.
• additional agents chosen from antioxidants, plasticizing agents, coalescing agents, preserving agents, thickening agents, perfumes, neutralizers, spreading agents, anti-foaming agents, dispersing agents, and stabilizing agents, especially chosen from surfactants and / or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic, semi-crystalline polymers, sweeteners, vitamins, trace elements, anti-blocking agents.
• free radicals free radicals, sequestering agents, softeners, humectants other than polyols and polyol derivatives suitable for the invention, opacifiers, emollients, silicones, fillers other than a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, polymers , propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field and their mixtures.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen for example from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials, and mixtures thereof.
• These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents, cicatrizing agents and / or anti-aging agents of the skin such as the skin of the body and / or face and / or nails.
• the additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art.
• composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form conventionally according to the intended applications.
• composition according to the invention when it is cosmetic or dermatological, it may be in any galenical form conventionally used for topical applications and in particular in the form of a dispersion of the lotion or aqueous gel type, of emulsion of liquid consistency to half -Solids, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or of a semi-solid liquid suspension of cream type or emulsified gel.
• a dispersion of the lotion or aqueous gel type of emulsion of liquid consistency to half -Solids, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or of a semi-solid liquid suspension of cream type or emulsified gel.
• the composition is in the form of emulsion, oil-in-water (direct emulsion (O / W)) or water-in-oil (inverse emulsion (W / O)), gel or emulsified gel , and even more prefer! in the form of a direct O / W emulsion or an inverse W / O emulsion.
• the emulsions may contain stabilizers such as, for example, fillers other than synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention, gelling or thickening polymers.
• the composition according to the invention comprises a synthetic phyllosilicate, preferably in aqueous gel form or hydroalcoholic gel and at least one water-soluble organic UV filter.
• the composition according to the invention comprises a synthetic phyllosilicate, preferably in powder form and at least one UV filter, preferably chosen from liposoluble organic UV filters, water-soluble organic filters and mixtures thereof.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate preferably in powder form
• at least one UV filter preferably chosen from liposoluble organic UV filters, water-soluble organic filters and mixtures thereof.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention when in the form of a gel and more particularly of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, it may constitute part but also totally the aqueous phase.
• the aqueous phase may then optionally comprise, in addition to a synthetic phyllosilicate in the form of a gel, one or more other gelling agents.
• compositions defined in the two preceding paragraphs may also comprise a synthetic phyllosilicate in the form of a powder for boosting the sensory and / or filtering performance.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a makeup product.
• the makeup products can be of the foundation type, blush or eye shadow, concealer, blush, or a body makeup product or coloring of the skin and / or nails.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as care product and / or sun protection for the face and / or the body and / or the nails of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, creams more or less creamy, gel-creams, pasta.
• They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
• compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the nails in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices.
• Devices suitable for the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", the aerosol containers comprising a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.
• the aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane.
• a composition according to the invention may in particular constitute a perfume composition, a deodorant composition, a care and / or treatment composition for the skin and / or the nails and in particular be in the form of a spray or an aerosol ("Body mist", "body splash”), fresh water, toilet water, eau de perfume or aftershave.
• a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for the invention is prepared according to the technology described in Example 1 of application FR 2 977 580 of page 21 line 26 to page 23 line 20.
• the formation of the hydrogel was carried out without the freeze-drying step (from page 21 line 26 to page 22 line 29 of document FR 2 977-580).
• the X-ray diffractogram analysis was carried out using the equipment and method used for the X-ray diffraction analyzes which are detailed in the application FR 2 977 580.
• compositions according to the invention illustrated in the following examples comprise a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention as obtained in this example 1.
• compositions A, B and / or C defined below were evaluated according to the following protocol.
• the cosmetic properties of the application are evaluated monadically by a panel of experts trained in the description of skincare products. Sensory evaluation of skincare products by this panel is carried out as follows: the products are packaged in opaque jars or pump flasks according to the viscosity of the products. In the same session, the samples are presented in. randomized order for each panelist. The 15 experts evaluated the following parameters:
• the descriptors are evaluated on a 3-level scale: +, ++ and +++,
• the preservative system and glycerine dissolved in water add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at about 70 ° C until homogenization of the gel. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase).
• the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase in the aqueous phase with rotor / stator stirring (Moritz) or mixer. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) and add the filler and alcohol until a smooth smooth cream is obtained.
• compositions B and C make it possible to reduce the tackiness of the emulsion and to increase the feeling of penetration of the composition during application.
• compositions B and C make it possible to reduce stickiness of the feel of the emulsion and increase the feeling of penetration of the composition during application.
• DANISCO company SODIUM 1.0 1, 0 1, 0
• compositions B and C make it possible to reduce the stickiness of the emulsion and to increase the feeling of penetration of the composition during application.
• Type creams (type of emulsion: O / W) based on synthetic phyllosilicate in powder form
• compositions B and C make it possible to reduce the sensation of emulsion stickiness and to increase the penetration sensation of the composition during the application.
• composition B the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for the invention, here in the form of a powder, in the composition B according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the stickiness of the emulsion and to increase the sensation of penetration of the emulsion. the composition during the application.
• HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL composed of 40% water, 35% of HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL / HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL and 25% of propylene glycol contained in compositions A, B and C is marketed under the name MEXORYL ⁇ by the company SBB CHIMEX. Results
• compositions B and C make it possible to reduce the emulsion stickiness and to increase the sensation of penetration. of the composition during application.
• HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL composed of 40% water, 35% HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL / HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL and 25% propylene glycol contained in composition A is marketed under the name MEXORYL® by the company SBB CHIMEX.
• composition A according to the invention allows to obtain a very low tack and with a good feeling of penetration.
• composition Composition Composition Al Bl Cl
• compositions B and C according to the invention are stable.
• compositions A1, B1 and C1 For each of the compositions A1, B1 and C1, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.
• the cosmetic properties at the application are evaluated, in monadic, by a panel of 15 experts trained in the description of care products.
• Sensory evaluation of skincare products by this panel is carried out as follows: the products are packaged in opaque jars or pump flasks according to the viscosity of the products. In a single session, samples are presented in randomized order for each panelist.
• softness is defined as the ability of the product not to cling to the skin during application. The rough effect or the braking effect oppose this descriptor.
• the descriptors are evaluated on a three-level scale: +, ++ and +++, the symbols + to +++ corresponding to an increase in the cosmetic property tested.
• the descriptors are evaluated on a three-level scale: +, ++ and +++, the symbols + to +++ corresponding to an increase in the cosmetic property tested.
• compositions B1 and C1 containing organic UV filters.
• Hposolubles can reduce the stickiness and fat effect of emulsions and also improve the smoothness, that is to say, reduce the effect coarse / slowing.
• the plate is the material on which the anti-solar composition is applied.
• PMMA polymethylmethacrylate
• compositions B1. and Cl according to the invention comprising respectively 2% and 5% of synthetic phyllosilicate in the form of powder have a greater SPF factor than the composition A1 does not comprise synthetic phyllosilicate.
• Synthetic powder introduced into the compositions containing lipophilic UV filters makes it possible to increase the SPF performance of the compositions according to the invention.

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• 2015
  • 2015-11-24 BR BR112017010702A patent/BR112017010702A2/pt active Search and Examination
  • 2015-11-24 US US15/529,431 patent/US20170326045A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2015-11-24 WO PCT/EP2015/077549 patent/WO2016083404A1/fr active Application Filing
  • 2015-11-24 EP EP15798466.7A patent/EP3223777A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2015-11-24 JP JP2017527726A patent/JP2017535572A/ja active Pending
  • 2015-11-24 CN CN201580074382.5A patent/CN107205894A/zh active Pending

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