EP2986772B1 - Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté au tissage - Google Patents

Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté au tissage Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2986772B1
EP2986772B1 EP14727233.0A EP14727233A EP2986772B1 EP 2986772 B1 EP2986772 B1 EP 2986772B1 EP 14727233 A EP14727233 A EP 14727233A EP 2986772 B1 EP2986772 B1 EP 2986772B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibers
filaments
chitosan
yarn
carried out
Prior art date
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Active
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EP14727233.0A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2986772A1 (fr
Inventor
Elisabetta CANEPA
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CANEPA, ELISABETTA
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Individual
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Publication date
Priority claimed from IT000649A external-priority patent/ITMI20130649A1/it
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Priority to EP14727233.0A priority Critical patent/EP2986772B1/fr
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F11/00—Chemical after-treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/001—Treatment with visible light, infrared or ultraviolet, X-rays
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/04—Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/08—Organic compounds
    • D06M10/10—Macromolecular compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/53—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with hydrogen sulfide or its salts; with polysulfides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process of making a yarn, preferably a thin yarn having suitability for weaving features, particularly a yarn having natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together.
  • weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving.
  • the invention also relates to a yarn, preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
  • the fibers and/or filaments undergo a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry byproducts.
  • a reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments has better sizing properties than other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%, with 3% reduction of elongation.
  • the core of the invention consists in overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
  • the present invention provides crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, to ensure permanent adhesion of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
  • the advantage of the step of crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is that the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn are imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long-lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the affinity of the fibers and/or filaments.
  • the technique of crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives for application to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn before weaving is used against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk: i.e. that crosslinking of chitosan causes an undesired structural stiffening on the surface of the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is unacceptable for valuable yarns/fabrics.
  • the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which is first crosslinked and then, if needed, mostly removed in a partial and calibrated manner, the rest of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to the fibers and/or filaments maintaining its beneficial effects, as mentioned above.
  • the process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features comprises the steps of:
  • the process is characterized in that it comprises:
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out after the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments as well as said reinforcement product, before crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning the fibers is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • the process of the invention comprises a step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments, which is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments may be carried out after or at the same time as the spinning step.
  • said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step, and more preferably by immersion in a hydrolyzing desizing solution.
  • said partial and calibrated desizing step which does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers, is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
  • Such mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces.
  • These rigid surfaces may consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during the weaving step, bristles of a brush, and others.
  • These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
  • the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
  • the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a fiber washing or a fiber dyeing step before weaving of the yarn or the fabric or knit.
  • a partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
  • the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments will leave said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9% w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • various methods such as: foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of the fibers and/or the filaments.
  • composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is a solution comprising:
  • said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-16 to 1-24.
  • such yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Polysaccharides And Polysaccharide Derivatives (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil ayant des caractéristiques d'aptitude au tissage, comprenant les étapes consistant à:
    - fournir des fibres animales naturelles, des fibres végétales, des fibres synthétiques de polymère et/ou des fibres naturelles artificielles, des filaments continus d'origine animale et/ou des filaments discontinus d'origine animale, à utiliser à l'état pur ou mélangés ensemble;
    - effectuer un ou plusieurs opérations de traitement sur lesdites fibres et/ou lesdits filaments pour les préparer à la filature, choisies dans le groupe comprenant: lavage, séchage, mélange, nettoyage, ouverture, dévidage, cardage, peignage, parallélisation, formation de nappe, étirage/amincissement, formation de mèches de banc et/ou teinture et
    - faire tourner lesdites fibres et/ou lesdits filaments une fois que l'une ou plusieurs desdites opérations de traitement ont été réalisées sur lesdites fibres et/ou lesdits filaments pour les préparer à la filature, pour obtenir le fil,
    caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend:
    - une étape d'application d'un produit de renforcement comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou de ses dérivés auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments, ladite étape d'application dudit produit de renforcement comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou de ses dérivés auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments étant réalisée avant l'étape de filature desdites fibres et/ou desdits filaments, et
    - la réalisation d'une étape ultérieure de réticulation du chitosane et/ou de ses dérivés dudit produit de renforcement appliqué auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments, de sorte qu'un polymère de renforcement réticulé ancré en permanence auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments est obtenu dudit chitosane et/ou ses dérivés.
  2. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon la revendication 1, dans lequel, afin de faciliter l'étape suivante de réticulation du chitosane et/ou de ses dérivés dudit produit de renforcement appliqué auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments, après ladite étape d'application d'un produit de renforcement comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou de ses dérivés auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments, une étape de séchage est prévue pour sécher lesdites fibres et/ou lesdits filaments et ledit produit de renforcement comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ceux-ci appliqués auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments, avant d'effectuer ladite étape de réticulation du chitosane et/ou de ses dérivés dudit produit de renforcement appliqué aux dites fibres et/ou aux dits filaments.
  3. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 2, comprenant une étape d'élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé desdites fibres et/ou desdits filaments réalisés avant ladite étape de filature desdites fibres et/ou lesdits filaments.
  4. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon la revendication 1 ou 2, comprenant une étape d'élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé desdites fibres et/ou desdits filaments réalisée après ladite étape de filature desdites fibres et/ou lesdits filaments.
  5. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon les revendications 3 ou 4, dans lequel ladite étape d'élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé desdites fibres et/ou desdits filaments est effectuée par une étape de désencollage par hydrolyse.
  6. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon la revendication 5, dans lequel ladite solution de désencollage par hydrolyse:
    - fournit un désencollage enzymatique ou
    - fournit un désencollage chimique, en utilisant des acides hydrolysants.
  7. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon l'une quelconque des revendications 3 à 6, dans lequel ladite étape d'élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé desdites fibres et/ou desdits filaments est réalisée par une étape de désencollage mécanique, les fibres étant traitées par abrasion, frottement, brossage et/ou par des traitements adaptés pour éliminer une partie du chitosane réticulé et/ou du polymère dérivé du chitosane des fibres.
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 7, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique sur les fibres à désencoller par abrasion e/o frottement est effectué en faisant glisser le fil en contact avec des surfaces rigides.
  9. Procédé selon la revendication 8, dans lequel lesdites surfaces rigides sont constituées des surfaces des dents du peigne de tissage, oeillets à travers lesquels le fil est glissé pendant le tissage, surfaces des rouleaux en contact avec le fil coulissant, tissu ou tricot, et/ou des poils d'une brosse.
  10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 7 à 9, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique pour agir physiquement sur les fibres devant être désencollées par abrasion et/ou frottement est effectuée sur le fil pendant l'étape de tissage.
  11. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 7 à 9, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique par abrasion et/ou frottement est effectuée en brossant le tissu ou le tricot, ou en faisant glisser le tissu ou le tricot en contact avec des surfaces rigides.
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 7, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique partielle et calibrée pour éliminer le chitosane réticulé et/ou le polymère dérivé de chitosane des fibres est effectuée par traitement ultrasonique de telles fibres, de préférence pendant que lesdites fibres sont immergées dans un bain.
  13. Procédé selon la revendication 12, dans lequel ledit traitement par ultrasons des fibres est effectué en même temps qu'une étape de traitement de tissage ou de finissage, au cours de laquelle les fibres sont déjà immergées dans un bain.
  14. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13, dans lequel ladite étape d'application d'un produit de renforcement comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou de ses dérivés auxdites fibres et/ou auxdits filaments est effectué en utilisant une solution comprenant:
    - le chitosane, de préférence de faible poids moléculaire, plus préférablement de 150.000 Da, le degré de désacétylation de 75 à 85 %; viscosité 20-200 cps à une plage de concentration de 0,5 à 10 % en poids/volume, de préférence de 0,8 à 3% en poids/volume, plus préférablement de 1 % en poids/volume.
  15. Procédé de fabrication d'un fil selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 14, dans lequel ledit fil a une numération allant de 40 Nm à 200 Nm, de préférence de 65 Nm à 200 Nm.
EP14727233.0A 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté au tissage Active EP2986772B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (fr) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté au tissage

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP13164379 2013-04-18
IT000649A ITMI20130649A1 (it) 2013-04-19 2013-04-19 Procedimento per la produzione di un filato avente caratteristiche di idoneità alla tessitura
PCT/IB2014/060834 WO2014170876A1 (fr) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté à des applications de tissage
EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (fr) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté au tissage

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2986772A1 EP2986772A1 (fr) 2016-02-24
EP2986772B1 true EP2986772B1 (fr) 2018-07-25

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP14727233.0A Active EP2986772B1 (fr) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté au tissage

Country Status (6)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2986772B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP6504471B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN105164333A (fr)
HK (1) HK1218941A1 (fr)
TR (1) TR201815472T4 (fr)
WO (1) WO2014170876A1 (fr)

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KR20160145053A (ko) * 2014-04-18 2016-12-19 카네파 에스.피.에이. 얀 또는 패브릭의 화학적 및/또는 물리적 특성의 개선 방법
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JP2016519728A (ja) 2016-07-07
TR201815472T4 (tr) 2018-11-21
CN105164333A (zh) 2015-12-16
WO2014170876A1 (fr) 2014-10-23
EP2986772A1 (fr) 2016-02-24
JP6504471B2 (ja) 2019-04-24
HK1218941A1 (zh) 2017-03-17

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