EP2986772B1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines webbaren garns - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines webbaren garns Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2986772B1
EP2986772B1 EP14727233.0A EP14727233A EP2986772B1 EP 2986772 B1 EP2986772 B1 EP 2986772B1 EP 14727233 A EP14727233 A EP 14727233A EP 2986772 B1 EP2986772 B1 EP 2986772B1
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Prior art keywords
fibers
filaments
chitosan
yarn
carried out
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EP14727233.0A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2986772A1 (de
Inventor
Elisabetta CANEPA
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CANEPA, ELISABETTA
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Individual
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Priority claimed from IT000649A external-priority patent/ITMI20130649A1/it
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F11/00—Chemical after-treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/001—Treatment with visible light, infrared or ultraviolet, X-rays
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/04—Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/08—Organic compounds
    • D06M10/10—Macromolecular compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/53—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with hydrogen sulfide or its salts; with polysulfides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process of making a yarn, preferably a thin yarn having suitability for weaving features, particularly a yarn having natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together.
  • weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving.
  • the invention also relates to a yarn, preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
  • the fibers and/or filaments undergo a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry byproducts.
  • a reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments has better sizing properties than other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%, with 3% reduction of elongation.
  • the core of the invention consists in overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
  • the present invention provides crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, to ensure permanent adhesion of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
  • the advantage of the step of crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is that the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn are imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long-lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the affinity of the fibers and/or filaments.
  • the technique of crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives for application to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn before weaving is used against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk: i.e. that crosslinking of chitosan causes an undesired structural stiffening on the surface of the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is unacceptable for valuable yarns/fabrics.
  • the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which is first crosslinked and then, if needed, mostly removed in a partial and calibrated manner, the rest of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to the fibers and/or filaments maintaining its beneficial effects, as mentioned above.
  • the process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features comprises the steps of:
  • the process is characterized in that it comprises:
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out after the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments as well as said reinforcement product, before crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning the fibers is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • the process of the invention comprises a step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments, which is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments may be carried out after or at the same time as the spinning step.
  • said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step, and more preferably by immersion in a hydrolyzing desizing solution.
  • said partial and calibrated desizing step which does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers, is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
  • Such mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces.
  • These rigid surfaces may consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during the weaving step, bristles of a brush, and others.
  • These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
  • the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
  • the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a fiber washing or a fiber dyeing step before weaving of the yarn or the fabric or knit.
  • a partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
  • the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments will leave said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9% w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • various methods such as: foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of the fibers and/or the filaments.
  • composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is a solution comprising:
  • said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-16 to 1-24.
  • such yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Polysaccharides And Polysaccharide Derivatives (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns mit Verwebbarkeitseigenschaften, umfassend folgende Schritte:
    - Bereitstellen von natürlichen tierischen Fasern, pflanzlichen Fasern, synthetischen Polymerfasern und/oder künstlich hergestellten natürlichen Fasern, kontinuierliche Filamente tierischen Ursprung und/oder diskontinuierliche Filamente tierischen Ursprungs, die in reiner Form oder miteinander vermischt zu verwenden sind;
    - Durchführen einer oder mehrerer Verarbeitungsvorgänge an den Fasern und/oder Filamente zur Vorbereitung für das Verspinnen, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe umfassen: Waschen, Trocknen, Vermischen, Reinigen, Öffnen, Wickeln, Kardieren, Kämmen, Parallelisieren, Bahn bilden, Dehnen/Ausdünnen, Vorgarnbildung und/oder Färben und
    - Verspinnen der Fasern und/oder Filamente, nachdem einer oder mehrere der Verarbeitungsvorgänge an den Fasern und/oder Filamenten zur Vorbereitung des Verspinnens ausgeführt wurden, um das Garn zu erhalten,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es Folgendes umfasst:
    - einen Schritt des Aufbringens eines Verstärkungsprodukts, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente, wobei der Schritt des Aufbringens des Verstärkungsprodukts, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente ausgeführt wird, bevor der Schritt des Verspinnens der Fasern und/oder Filamente ausgeführt wird und
    - Ausführen eines anschließenden Schrittes des Vernetzens des Chitosans und/oder der Derivate davon des auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente aufgebrachten Verstärkungsprodukts, sodass ein vernetztes Verstärkungspolymer, das dauerhaft auf den Fasern und/oder Filamenten verankert ist, aus dem Chitosan und/oder den Derivaten davon erhalten wird.
  2. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach Anspruch 1, wobei zur Erleichterung des anschließenden Schrittes des Vernetzens des Chitosans und/oder der Derivate davon des auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente aufgebrachten Verstärkungsprodukts nach dem Schritt des Aufbringens eines Verstärkungsprodukts umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente ein Trocknungsschritt vorgesehen ist, um die Fasern und/oder Filamente und das Verstärkungsprodukt, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon, das auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente aufgebracht wurde, zu trocknen, bevor der Schritt des Vernetzens des Chitosans und/oder der Derivate davon des auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente aufgebrachten Verstärkungsprodukts ausgeführt wird.
  3. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 2, umfassend einen Schritt des teilweisen, kalibrierten Entfernens des vernetzten Verstärkungspolymers von den Fasern und/oder Filamenten, der vor dem Schritt des Verspinnens der Fasern und/oder Filamente ausgeführt wird.
  4. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, umfassend einen Schritt des teilweisen, kalibrierten Entfernens des vernetzten Verstärkungspolymers von den Fasern und/oder Filamenten, der nach dem Schritt des Verspinnens der Fasern und/oder Filamente ausgeführt wird.
  5. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach Anspruch 3 oder 4, wobei der Schritt des teilweisen, kalibrierten Entfernens des vernetzten Verstärkungspolymers von den Fasern und/oder Filamenten durch einen hydrolisierenden Entschlichtungsschritt ausgeführt wird.
  6. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach Anspruch 5, wobei die hydrolisierende Entschlichtungslösung:
    - eine enzymatischen Entschlichtung bereitstellt oder
    - eine chemische Entschlichtung durch Verwendung von hydrolisierenden Säuren bereitstellt.
  7. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach einem der Ansprüche 3 bis 6, wobei der Schritt des teilweisen, kalibrierten Entfernens des vernetzten Verstärkungspolymers von den Fasern und/oder Filamenten durch einen mechanischen Entschlichtungsschritt ausgeführt wird, bei dem die Fasern durch Abrieb, Reiben, Bürsten und/oder Behandlungen beaufschlagt werden, um einen Teil des vernetzten Chitosans und/oder des von Chitosan abgeleiteten Polymers von den Fasern zu entfernen.
  8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, wobei der mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt der zu entschlichtenden Fasern durch Abrieb und/oder Reiben beim Gleiten des Garns in Kontakt mit starren Flächen ausgeführt wird.
  9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 8, wobei die starren Flächen aus den Flächen der Zähnen des Webkamms, Ösen, durch die das Garn beim Weben gleitet, Rollenflächen, die vom gleitenden Garn, Gewebe oder Gewirke berührt werden, und/oder den Borsten einer Bürste bestehen.
  10. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 9, wobei der mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt zum physikalischen Beaufschlagen der zu entschlichtenden Fasern durch Abrieb und/oder Reiben während des Webschrittes auf das Garn ausgeführt wird.
  11. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 9, wobei der mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt durch Abrieb und/oder Reiben durch Bürsten des Gewebes oder Gewirkes oder beim Gleiten des Gewebes oder Gewirkes im Kontakt mit starren Flächen ausgeführt wird.
  12. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, wobei der teilweise, kalibrierte mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt zum Entfernen des vernetzten Chitosans und/oder des von Chitosan abgeleiteten Polymers von den Fasern durch Ultraschallbehandlung derartiger Fasern ausgeführt wird, vorzugsweise, wenn die Fasern in ein Bad eingetaucht sind.
  13. Verfahren nach Anspruch 12, wobei die Ultraschallbehandlung der Fasern gleichzeitig mit einem Web- oder Fertigbehandlungs-Bearbeitungsschritt ausgeführt wird, in dem die Fasern bereits in ein Bad eingetaucht sind.
  14. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13, wobei der Schritt des Aufbringens eines Verstärkungsprodukts, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon, auf die Fasern und/oder Filamente ausgeführt wird durch Verwenden einer Lösung, umfassend:
    - Chitosan, vorzugsweise mit geringem Molekulargewicht, insbesondere mit 150.000 Da, einem Deacetylisierungsgrad von 75-85%; einer Viskosität von 20-200 cps in einem Konzentrationsbereich von 0,5-10% w/v, vorzugsweise 0,8-3% w/v, insbesondere 1% w/v.
  15. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Garns nach einem der Ansprüche von 1 bis 14, wobei das Garn eine Feinheit im Bereich von 40 Nm bis 200 Nm, vorzugsweise von 65 Nm bis 200 Nm aufweist.
EP14727233.0A 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Verfahren zur herstellung eines webbaren garns Active EP2986772B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (de) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Verfahren zur herstellung eines webbaren garns

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP13164379 2013-04-18
IT000649A ITMI20130649A1 (it) 2013-04-19 2013-04-19 Procedimento per la produzione di un filato avente caratteristiche di idoneità alla tessitura
PCT/IB2014/060834 WO2014170876A1 (en) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features
EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (de) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Verfahren zur herstellung eines webbaren garns

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2986772A1 EP2986772A1 (de) 2016-02-24
EP2986772B1 true EP2986772B1 (de) 2018-07-25

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EP (1) EP2986772B1 (de)
JP (1) JP6504471B2 (de)
CN (1) CN105164333A (de)
HK (1) HK1218941A1 (de)
TR (1) TR201815472T4 (de)
WO (1) WO2014170876A1 (de)

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TR201815472T4 (tr) 2018-11-21
CN105164333A (zh) 2015-12-16
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EP2986772A1 (de) 2016-02-24
JP6504471B2 (ja) 2019-04-24
HK1218941A1 (zh) 2017-03-17

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