EP2986772B1 - A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving - Google Patents
A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2986772B1 EP2986772B1 EP14727233.0A EP14727233A EP2986772B1 EP 2986772 B1 EP2986772 B1 EP 2986772B1 EP 14727233 A EP14727233 A EP 14727233A EP 2986772 B1 EP2986772 B1 EP 2986772B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- fibers
- filaments
- chitosan
- yarn
- carried out
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 title claims description 33
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 32
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 119
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 claims description 65
- 230000002787 reinforcement Effects 0.000 claims description 42
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 19
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000004132 cross linking Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000003301 hydrolyzing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000009210 therapy by ultrasound Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000010011 enzymatic desizing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000006196 deacetylation Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000003381 deacetylation reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 241001061260 Emmelichthys struhsakeri Species 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 21
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 7
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000007598 dipping method Methods 0.000 description 2
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000008564 Boehmeria nivea Species 0.000 description 1
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002101 Chitin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 240000000491 Corchorus aestuans Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000011777 Corchorus aestuans Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000010862 Corchorus capsularis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241000238424 Crustacea Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- VGGSQFUCUMXWEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethene Chemical compound C=C VGGSQFUCUMXWEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005977 Ethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000219146 Gossypium Species 0.000 description 1
- 240000006240 Linum usitatissimum Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000004431 Linum usitatissimum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 244000082204 Phyllostachys viridis Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241001416177 Vicugna pacos Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000282840 Vicugna vicugna Species 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000443 aerosol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000889 atomisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006227 byproduct Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000002057 carboxymethyl group Chemical group [H]OC(=O)C([H])([H])[*] 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002950 deficient Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002708 enhancing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009950 felting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000013305 food Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000005923 long-lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003760 magnetic stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005445 natural material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005615 natural polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- -1 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011012 sanitization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002604 ultrasonography Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002699 waste material Substances 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F11/00—Chemical after-treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
- D06M10/001—Treatment with visible light, infrared or ultraviolet, X-rays
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
- D06M10/04—Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
- D06M10/08—Organic compounds
- D06M10/10—Macromolecular compounds
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
- D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
- D06M11/53—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with hydrogen sulfide or its salts; with polysulfides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a process of making a yarn, preferably a thin yarn having suitability for weaving features, particularly a yarn having natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together.
- weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving.
- the invention also relates to a yarn, preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
- the fibers and/or filaments undergo a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
- Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry byproducts.
- a reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments has better sizing properties than other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%, with 3% reduction of elongation.
- the core of the invention consists in overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
- the present invention provides crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, to ensure permanent adhesion of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
- the advantage of the step of crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is that the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn are imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long-lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the affinity of the fibers and/or filaments.
- the technique of crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives for application to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn before weaving is used against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk: i.e. that crosslinking of chitosan causes an undesired structural stiffening on the surface of the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is unacceptable for valuable yarns/fabrics.
- the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which is first crosslinked and then, if needed, mostly removed in a partial and calibrated manner, the rest of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to the fibers and/or filaments maintaining its beneficial effects, as mentioned above.
- the process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features comprises the steps of:
- the process is characterized in that it comprises:
- said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out after the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments as well as said reinforcement product, before crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
- said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning the fibers is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
- the process of the invention comprises a step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments, which is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- said partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments may be carried out after or at the same time as the spinning step.
- said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step, and more preferably by immersion in a hydrolyzing desizing solution.
- said partial and calibrated desizing step which does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers, is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
- Such mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces.
- These rigid surfaces may consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during the weaving step, bristles of a brush, and others.
- These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
- the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
- the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a fiber washing or a fiber dyeing step before weaving of the yarn or the fabric or knit.
- a partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
- the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments will leave said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9% w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step.
- a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
- various methods such as: foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of the fibers and/or the filaments.
- composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is a solution comprising:
- said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
- a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
- a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-16 to 1-24.
- such yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.
Description
- The present invention relates to a process of making a yarn, preferably a thin yarn having suitability for weaving features, particularly a yarn having natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together.
- As used herein, the term weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving.
- The invention also relates to a yarn, preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
- As used herein, for example:
- thin yarns are intended to cover yarns having a yarn count ranging from 40 to 200 Nm, and preferably a yarn count ranging from 65 to 200 Nm;
- animal fibers are intended to cover fleece or hair fibers (such as wool, alpaca, vicuna, cashmere and others);
- continuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by reeling from whole cocoons (such as silk);
- discontinuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by unravelling from defective cocoons (such as waste silk);
- vegetable fibers are intended to cover all the fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, inflorescences, roots, leaves (such as cotton, flax, hemp, jute, coir, ramie, bamboo, and others);
- synthetic polymer fibers are intended to cover, for example, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene fibers, and others;
- man-made natural fibers are intended to cover, for example, rayon viscose, modal, acetate, cupro, tencel® and others.
- These yarns of the above mentioned type are known to be difficult to spin and weave, due to their thinness which makes them prone to breaking during spinning or later weaving.
- Furthermore, at present the following needs are strongly felt in the field of yarns and weaving:
- enhancing mechanical properties, such as abrasion resistance, of a thin yarn, and reducing mechanical friction between weft yarns and warp yarns, for trouble-free weaving;
- developing an environment-friendly and low-power-consumption process of making a yarn having improved suitability for weaving features;
- developing a process of making a yarn having improved features in terms of high resistance to pilling, felting and rubbing, as well as superior mechanical properties while maintaining the desired softness, volume, brightness and lightness features;
- developing a process of making a yarn having improved dye affinity, or improved affinity for the later finishing steps, such as printing.
- Documents
US 2003/134120 A1 ,JP 2000 073280 A CN 102 747 450 A disclose the application of chitosan to fibers before spinning. - Documents
JP H02 41473 A JP 2004 131647 A - This problem is solved by a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features as defined in claim 1.
- According to the invention, before the step of spinning, the fibers and/or filaments undergo a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
- Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry byproducts.
- A reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments has better sizing properties than other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%, with 3% reduction of elongation.
- The core of the invention consists in overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
- Unlike prior art teachings, the present invention provides crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, to ensure permanent adhesion of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
- The advantage of the step of crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is that the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn are imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long-lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the affinity of the fibers and/or filaments.
- In a further auxiliary aspect, the technique of crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives for application to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn before weaving is used against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk: i.e. that crosslinking of chitosan causes an undesired structural stiffening on the surface of the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is unacceptable for valuable yarns/fabrics.
- Conversely, according to a further auxiliary aspect of the present invention, the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which is first crosslinked and then, if needed, mostly removed in a partial and calibrated manner, the rest of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to the fibers and/or filaments maintaining its beneficial effects, as mentioned above.
- The process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features, according to the invention comprises the steps of:
- providing natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together;
- performing one or more processing operations on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, selected from the group comprising: washing, drying, blending, cleaning, opening, reeling, unravelling, carding, combing, parallelization of fibers and/or filaments, web formation, stretching/thinning, rove formation and/or dyeing and
- spinning said fibers and/or said filaments once one or more of said processing operations have been performed on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, to obtain a yarn.
- Advantageously, the process is characterized in that it comprises:
- a step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, said step of applying said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments being carried out before spinning said fibers and/or said filaments, and
- performing a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, which is permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
- Preferably, said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- Alternatively, said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, may be carried out after the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- Preferably, in order to facilitate the subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, after said step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments as well as said reinforcement product, before crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
- Preferably, said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning the fibers, is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
- Preferably, the process of the invention comprises a step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments, which is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- Alternatively, said partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments may be carried out after or at the same time as the spinning step.
- Preferably, said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step, and more preferably by immersion in a hydrolyzing desizing solution.
- Such hydrolyzing desizing solution:
- provides enzymatic desizing or
- provides chemical desizing, using hydrolyzing acids.
- Preferably, said partial and calibrated desizing step, which does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers, is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
- Such mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces. These rigid surfaces may consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during the weaving step, bristles of a brush, and others.
- These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
- According to an alternative embodiment, the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
- Advantageously, the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a fiber washing or a fiber dyeing step before weaving of the yarn or the fabric or knit.
- The possibility of performing partial and calibrated mechanical desizing of the crosslinked polymer on the fibers does not exclude the possibility that such step may be carried out before or after, and in addition to a partial and calibrated chemical or enzymatic desizing step.
- A partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
- Preferably, the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments will leave said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9% w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step.
- The above mentioned step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out using various methods, such as: foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of the fibers and/or the filaments.
- Preferably, the composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is a solution comprising:
- chitosan, preferably of low molecular weight, more preferably of 150,000 Da, degree of deacetylation 75-85%; viscosity 20-200 cps at a concentration range of 0.5-10% w/v, preferably 0.8-3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;
- acid aqueous solution and
- radical photoinitiator.
- Preferably, said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
- Such solution may be prepared through the steps of:
- dissolving the chitosan of low molecular weight in an acid aqueous solution of acetic acid,
- adding the photoinitiator in an amount of 1.4-4% w/w based on the dry weight of chitosan, preferably 1.8-2.2% w/w based on the dry weight of chitosan, more preferably 2% w/w based on the dry weight of chitosan, and
- stirring the solution, preferably by magnetic stirring.
- If the above mentioned step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out by dipping the latter into a bath of said composition, there will be preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-16 to 1-24.
- According to different embodiments of the process of the invention:
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a washing step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be advantageously carried out during said washing step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a blending step in a blending chamber, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out in said blending chamber during said blending step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a carding step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the carded fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the carding step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a combing step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the combed fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the combing step;
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a step for preparation of a tuft, a top, a web, a ribbon and/or a roving, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said tuft, said top, said web, said ribbon or said roving, or
- if the above mentioned processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a dyeing step, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said fibers and/or said filaments before said dyeing step.
- A yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, which may be obtained with a process according to the present invention, comprises a crosslinked reinforcement chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer, which is applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
- Preferably, such yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.
- In the light of the above disclosure, the process of the invention as described above, and the yarn that can be obtained with such process, can fulfill the needs addressed herein.
- The above disclosure is susceptible to a number of changes and variants within the inventive concept, as outlined by the annexed claims.
Claims (15)
- A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features, comprising the steps of:- providing natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together;- performing one or more processing operations on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, selected from the group comprising: washing, drying, blending, cleaning, opening, reeling, carding, combing, parallelization, web formation, stretching/thinning, rover formation and/or dyeing and- spinning said fibers and/or said filaments once one or more of said processing operations have been performed on said fibers and/or said filaments for preparing them to spinning, to obtain the yarn, characterized in that it comprises:- a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, said step of applying said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments being carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments, and- performing a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 1 wherein, in order to facilitate the subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, after said step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments, a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments and said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, before carrying out said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 2, comprising a step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments carried out before said step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 1 or 2, comprising a step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments carried out after said step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in claims 3 or 4, wherein said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in claim 5, wherein said hydrolyzing desizing solution:- provides enzymatic desizing or- provides chemical desizing, using hydrolyzing acids.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 3 to 6, wherein said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a mechanical desizing step, with fibers being acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers.
- A process as claimed as claimed in claim 7, wherein said mechanical desizing step on the fibers to be desized by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out by sliding the yarn in contact with rigid surfaces.
- A process as claimed in claim 8, wherein said rigid surfaces consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn, fabric or knit, and/or by the bristles of a brush.
- A process as claimed in any of claims 7 to 9, wherein said mechanical desizing step for physically acting upon the fibers to be desized by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out on the yarn during the weaving step.
- A process as claimed in any of claims 7 to 9, wherein said mechanical desizing step by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out by brushing the fabric or knit, or by sliding the fabric or knit in contact with rigid surfaces.
- A process as claimed in claim 7, wherein said partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers is carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers, preferably while said fibers are immersed in a bath.
- A process as claimed in claim 12, wherein said ultrasonic treatment of the fibers is carried out at the same time as a step weaving or finishing processing step, during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 13, wherein said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out using a solution comprising:- chitosan, preferably of low molecular weight, more preferably of 150,000 Da, degree of deacetylation 75-85%; viscosity 20-200 cps at a concentration range of 0.5-10% w/v, preferably 0.8-3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v.
- A process of making a yarn as claimed in any of claims from 1 to 14, wherein said yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.
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EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (en) | 2013-04-18 | 2014-04-18 | A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving |
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EP13164379 | 2013-04-18 | ||
IT000649A ITMI20130649A1 (en) | 2013-04-19 | 2013-04-19 | PROCEDURE FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A YARN WITH CHARACTERISTICS OF FITNESS |
EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (en) | 2013-04-18 | 2014-04-18 | A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving |
PCT/IB2014/060834 WO2014170876A1 (en) | 2013-04-18 | 2014-04-18 | A process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features |
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EP2986772B1 true EP2986772B1 (en) | 2018-07-25 |
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EP (1) | EP2986772B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP6504471B2 (en) |
CN (1) | CN105164333A (en) |
HK (1) | HK1218941A1 (en) |
TR (1) | TR201815472T4 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2014170876A1 (en) |
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ITMI20111901A1 (en) | 2011-10-19 | 2013-04-20 | Alfonso Saibene | PROCEDURE FOR THE SUBMISSION OF FITNESS TO THE WEAVING OF A THIN AND / OR THIN ORDER |
KR20160147779A (en) * | 2014-04-15 | 2016-12-23 | 카네파 에스.피.에이. | Process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of hollow-structure natural fibers |
JP6667451B2 (en) * | 2014-04-18 | 2020-03-18 | カネパ エス.ピー.エー. | Process for improving the chemical and / or physical properties of yarn or fabric |
CN106149128B (en) * | 2015-01-20 | 2018-06-12 | 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 | Using the method for weaving of the shirt fabric of white coconut husk charcoal tencel combed cotton yarn |
CN105421042B (en) * | 2016-01-15 | 2017-10-17 | 北京航空航天大学 | A kind of single green composite fibre of high-strength light high-ductility and preparation method thereof |
CN111133137B (en) * | 2017-09-22 | 2022-05-10 | 日本爱克兰工业株式会社 | Hygroscopic acrylic fiber, method for producing the fiber, and fiber structure containing the fiber |
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JPH0241473A (en) * | 1988-07-26 | 1990-02-09 | Tochigi Pref Gov | Antimicrobial yarn using chitosan compound and production thereof |
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JP2000073280A (en) * | 1998-08-26 | 2000-03-07 | Japan Exlan Co Ltd | Antimicrobial acrylic fiber and its production |
GB9903842D0 (en) * | 1999-02-20 | 1999-04-14 | Arcasorb Technolgy Limited | Substrates and substrate treatment process |
JP2001131872A (en) * | 1999-10-25 | 2001-05-15 | Koizumi Kagaku Kk | Treating agent and treating bath for cellulose fiber material, and method for treating the same |
US20020016276A1 (en) * | 2000-04-20 | 2002-02-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Yarn strength enhancing agents and compositions and methods employing same |
JP2004526064A (en) * | 2001-01-25 | 2004-08-26 | ナノテックス, エルエルシー | Method of making a cellulose coating around the fibers of a woven fabric and the woven fabric made thereby |
US20030134120A1 (en) * | 2001-12-24 | 2003-07-17 | Ibeks Technologies Co., Ltd. | Natural fiber coated with chitosan and a method for producing the same |
JP2003313777A (en) * | 2002-04-22 | 2003-11-06 | Kazuharu Makino | Fiber-based synthetic member and method for producing the same |
JP3924612B2 (en) * | 2002-10-11 | 2007-06-06 | 独立行政法人農業生物資源研究所 | Complex of silk protein and chitosan and method for producing the same |
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ITMI20111901A1 (en) * | 2011-10-19 | 2013-04-20 | Alfonso Saibene | PROCEDURE FOR THE SUBMISSION OF FITNESS TO THE WEAVING OF A THIN AND / OR THIN ORDER |
CN102747450B (en) * | 2012-07-19 | 2014-10-29 | 江苏开利地毯股份有限公司 | Production method of chitin antibacterial mouldproof polypropylene BCF (bulk continuous filament) filament |
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- 2014-04-18 CN CN201480021688.XA patent/CN105164333A/en active Pending
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CN105164333A (en) | 2015-12-16 |
TR201815472T4 (en) | 2018-11-21 |
JP2016519728A (en) | 2016-07-07 |
WO2014170876A1 (en) | 2014-10-23 |
HK1218941A1 (en) | 2017-03-17 |
EP2986772A1 (en) | 2016-02-24 |
JP6504471B2 (en) | 2019-04-24 |
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