EP2954080B1 - Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose - Google Patents

Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2954080B1
EP2954080B1 EP14705988.5A EP14705988A EP2954080B1 EP 2954080 B1 EP2954080 B1 EP 2954080B1 EP 14705988 A EP14705988 A EP 14705988A EP 2954080 B1 EP2954080 B1 EP 2954080B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
alloy
indium
palladium
equal
timepiece
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Active
Application number
EP14705988.5A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2954080A1 (fr
Inventor
Pascal Dubos
Jean-François Ricard
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rolex SA
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Rolex SA
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Priority to EP14705988.5A priority Critical patent/EP2954080B1/fr
Publication of EP2954080A1 publication Critical patent/EP2954080A1/fr
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Publication of EP2954080B1 publication Critical patent/EP2954080B1/fr
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    • GPHYSICS
    • G04HOROLOGY
    • G04BMECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00Cases
    • G04B37/22Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/002Metallic materials
    • A44C27/003Metallic alloys
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C22METALLURGY; FERROUS OR NON-FERROUS ALLOYS; TREATMENT OF ALLOYS OR NON-FERROUS METALS
    • C22CALLOYS
    • C22C5/00Alloys based on noble metals
    • C22C5/02Alloys based on gold

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a pink gold alloy, particularly suitable for a timepiece, and a timepiece, jewelery or jewelry as such comprising such an alloy, such as a watch.
  • the color of gold alloys depends on their content of alloying elements.
  • a copper content greater than 180 ⁇ and a silver content of about 40 ⁇ gives them a red color.
  • watch cases or wristbands made from these common gold alloys tended to undergo a gradual change in their color under the action of tap water, seawater, pool water, salt water or soapy water.
  • JP11-335755 discloses a pink gold alloy with a weight composition of 75% Au, 22% Cu, 1.5% Au, 1.0 Pd and 0.5 In.
  • One of the aims of the invention is to improve the resistance to a color change of a timepiece, jewelery or jewelry made in a pink gold alloy and subjected, during use, to weakly aggressive aqueous media.
  • Another object of the invention is to define a pink gold alloy whose pink has an aesthetic appearance as attractive as possible.
  • the invention is based on a timepiece, jewelery or jewelery as defined in claim 1.
  • ingots are prepared by vacuum static casting (melting in a graphite crucible and cooling under nitrogen). Samples are cut from the ingot in the raw state of casting. The surface is prepared by polishing. A typical sample has a square section of 20mm x 20mm x 5mm. All tests are carried out on casting alloys without subsequent deformation or heat treatment, and without the addition of usual grain refiners.
  • the crystallographic analysis of the samples is carried out with an X-ray diffractometer with Cu anode.
  • Metallographic control and phase stoichiometry analysis are performed by SEM - EDX scanning electron microscopy.
  • the color variations are measured with a spectrophotometer with integrating sphere.
  • the color is conventionally defined by a point in the CIELAB space consisting of a green-red axis on the abscissa, a yellow-blue axis on the y-axis and an axis representative of the contrast (see CIE15 report: 2004 established by the International Commission on Illumination).
  • the measurements were all performed using the following convention: illuminant D65 and standard observer 10 ° (CIE1964).
  • the color differences ⁇ E are defined by the DE2000 (equation 8.36, paragraph 8.3, CIE15: 2004 report).
  • a color gap measurement is performed between fresh (cast and polished) samples and accelerated salt spray aging samples, with exposure to NIHS 96-50 at 45 ° C with saline solution at 50g / l pure NaCl.
  • the 750Au250Cu alloy serves as a reference base.
  • the table in figure 2 and the graph of the figure 1 synthesize the results obtained after salt spray aging for various massive gold alloy ingots.
  • the tables in Figures 3 and 4 show other results obtained on alloys after aging for 40 days in salt spray.
  • the 13Pd alloy is very interesting, from the point of view of the color obtained and the discoloration. This discoloration as a function of time is represented by curve 1 of the figure 1 . More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750 ⁇ of gold, of copper, and with a Palladium content (Pd) defined by: Pd ⁇ 20 ⁇ or Pd ⁇ 15 ⁇ , or 5 ⁇ ⁇ Pd ⁇ 15 ⁇ , or 8 ⁇ ⁇ Pd ⁇ 15 ⁇ or 11 ⁇ ⁇ Pd 15 ⁇ is advantageous.
  • AuCuIn alloys are interesting because the results show that In allows to form a single-phase alloy with Au and Cu.
  • the alloy 5In derives little, as it appears on the curve 2 of the figure 1 , and already shows an improvement over the reference of a 250Cu alloy.
  • the tests carried out show that there is an optimum at the level of the color drift between 5 and 20 ⁇ of In, in particular around 10 ⁇ , with a preferred interval between 7 ⁇ ⁇ In 15 ⁇ .
  • an alloy composed of at least 750 ⁇ of gold, of copper, and with an indium content (In) defined by: In ⁇ 20 ⁇ or In ⁇ 15 ⁇ , or 5 ⁇ ⁇ In ⁇ 20 ⁇ or 7 ⁇ ⁇ In ⁇ 15 ⁇ is advantageous.
  • Quaternary or quinternal alloys containing palladium are also very interesting.
  • the alloys 20Pd10In, 10Pd 5In 5Ca, 15Pd 10In 5Ca, 5Pd 10In 5Ca, 10Pd, 5In, 20Pd 10In 0.1Si, 20Pd 10In 1Ca, 20Pd 10In 0.5Ca, 20Pd 10In 0 , 02Si have weak drifts and are interesting.
  • AuCuPdIn alloys, such as 20Pd 10In alloy or 10Pd 5In alloy are particularly interesting.
  • an alloy composed of at least 750 ⁇ of gold, copper, palladium and indium is interesting, especially when the sum of the Pd and In levels is less than or equal to 45 ⁇ , or even 40 ⁇ , or even 35 ⁇ , or even 30 ⁇ , and / or when the sum of the Pd and In levels is between 15 ⁇ and 40 ⁇ , or even 20 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ , and / or when alloy comprises at least 1 ⁇ of Pd and 1 ⁇ of In, or at least 5 ⁇ of Pd and 5 ⁇ of In.
  • an alloy composed of at least 750 ⁇ of gold, copper, palladium and at least one element Y, Y being selected from Ca, Zr, or In is of interest, particularly when the sum of Palladium and element (s) Y is less than or equal to 40 ⁇ , or even 35 ⁇ , or even 30 ⁇ , or even 25 ⁇ , or even 20 ⁇ , or even 17 ⁇ , or even 15 ⁇ or even 13 ⁇ , and / or when the sum of the levels of Pd and element (s) Y is in the range between 15 ⁇ and 40 ⁇ , or even 20 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ , and / or when the alloy comprises at least 1 ⁇ of Pd and 1 ⁇ of the element Y or even at least 5 ⁇ of Pd and 5 ⁇ of the element Y.
  • an alloy composed of at least 750 ⁇ of gold, copper, palladium and at least one element Y, Y being chosen from In, Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, or Mg is interesting. , especially when the sum of the levels of Palladium and element (s) Y is less than or equal to 40 ⁇ , or even 35 ⁇ , or even 30 ⁇ , even 25 ⁇ , or even 20 ⁇ , or even 17 ⁇ , or even 15 ⁇ , or 13 ⁇ , and / or when the sum of the Pd and Y element (s) is in the range of 15 ⁇ to 40 ⁇ , or even 20 ⁇ to 35 ⁇ , and / or when alloy comprises at least 1 ⁇ Pd and 1 ⁇ or Y elements or even at least 5 ⁇ of Pd and 5 ⁇ or Y elements.
  • Quaternary or quinternary alloys with In are also interesting. More generally, an alloy composed of at least 750 ⁇ of gold, copper, indium and at least one element Y, Y being chosen from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg or Pd is interesting.
  • Quinternary AuCuPdInX alloys where X is selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg are also of interest.
  • alloys comprising more than four elements can be equally interesting, for example five or six, obtained by replacing the element Y quaternary compounds previously mentioned by n elements Y 1 , Y 2 , ..., Y n , the elements Y i being preferably chosen from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg, Pd or In, and so that the sum of rate of all elements except Au and Cu is less than or equal to 40 ⁇ .
  • Such alloys include especially alloys comprising the components Au, Cu, Pd, In, and X, where X is at least one member selected from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg.
  • alloys combining both Palladium and Indium are particularly advantageous compared to alloys comprising only one or other of these components, as illustrated by curve 3 of FIG. figure 1 and the results of the different tables of figure 2 to 4 .
  • an alloy comprising by weight at least 750 ⁇ of gold, also comprising copper, palladium and indium, the sum of the palladium and indium levels being less than or equal to 45 ⁇ , even lower than or equal to 35 ⁇ , or even lower than or equal to 30 ⁇ , and / or the sum of the palladium and indium levels being between 20 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ , is advantageous.
  • Such an alloy may comprise an indium content defined by: 7 ⁇ ⁇ rate of In ⁇ 15 ⁇ .
  • such an alloy may comprise gold, copper, palladium and calcium and / or silicon, so that the sum of the rates of all elements out of gold and copper is less than or equal to 40 ⁇ .
  • the figure 5 illustrates the discoloration obtained after 40 days for different alloys, according to the sum of the levels of palladium and indium they comprise. It appears that the best results are obtained for a sum greater than or equal to 15 ⁇ , are further improved for a sum greater than or equal to 20 ⁇ .
  • the 20 ⁇ -35 ⁇ intervals combine several high-performance alloys, and the reduced 25 ⁇ -33 ⁇ range brings together even better results.
  • the figure 6 provides further guidance on the sharing of these levels between the two components palladium and indium. It appears that the best results are obtained for a palladium content of between 15 ⁇ and 30 ⁇ , even between 19 ⁇ and 29 ⁇ , and an indium content of between 1 ⁇ and 15 ⁇ inclusive. Note that when using a small amount of indium, for example between 1 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ , or between 1 ⁇ and 6 ⁇ , and even between 1 ⁇ and 4 ⁇ , there is a advantageous significant effect due to its combination with palladium.
  • the figure 7 schematically illustrates these remarks.
  • the coordinate a * is on the abscissa and the coordinate b * on the ordinate. Note that this color can be measured against reference colors, and can also be subject to a visual examination, the aesthetic effect obtained being particularly noticeable by visual observation.
  • the first reference alloy is a conventional 18K yellow gold alloy, positioned on the left and upper part of the diagram, close to the y-axis, corresponding to a strong yellow cast.
  • the second reference alloy is a very red 18-carat gold alloy, comprising 250 ⁇ copper, positioned on the right and bottom of the diagram, near the abscissa axis.
  • the sum of the palladium and indium levels is advantageously included in the intervals between 15 ⁇ -35 ⁇ , even between 20 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ , or even between 25 ⁇ and 33 ⁇ , which represent choices. interesting for obtaining a satisfactory pink color of a gold alloy, these terminals can be included or excluded.
  • the alloys of rose gold combining palladium and indium are interesting because they allow both to achieve a satisfactory aesthetic color and fade little over time.
  • the precise quantities for each of these two components and their sum represent compromises between the reduction of the discoloration and the aesthetics of the desired pink color.
  • the intervals for this sum of palladium and indium levels which allow both to reach a satisfactory pink color and a slight discoloration are between 15 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ , or even between 20 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ , even between 25 ⁇ and 33 ⁇ , as shown in previous analyzes. In these ranges, a high palladium content, greater than or equal to 15 ⁇ , or even greater than or equal to 19 ⁇ , is favorable to the reduction of discoloration.
  • a low palladium content less than or equal to 20 ⁇ , or even less than or equal to 19 ⁇ or 18 ⁇ , is favorable to the aesthetics of the pink color.
  • a palladium level of between 19 ⁇ and 25 ⁇ inclusive forms a good solution.
  • the foregoing considerations may be adapted to any amount of copper greater than or equal to 180 ⁇ , especially also for a relatively small quantity of copper, for example between 180 ⁇ and 200 ⁇ .
  • the amount of copper Cu is greater than or equal to 200 ⁇ , it is possible to obtain suitable alloys with a palladium content of between 4 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ and an indium content of between 1 ⁇ and 16 ⁇ .
  • the invention relates to a timepiece, jewelery or jewelery comprising an alloy comprising by weight at least 750 ⁇ of gold, characterized in that the alloy also comprises at least 200 ⁇ of copper, between 4 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ of palladium and between 1 ⁇ and 16 ⁇ of indium.
  • a relatively high palladium content which can then be between 19 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ , or even between 21 ⁇ and 35 ⁇ . If we also want to avoid too much degradation of the aesthetics of the pink color, we can lower the upper threshold of the palladium level, closer to 30 ⁇ if possible and preferably strictly under 30 ⁇ .
  • the optimal ranges taking into account these constraints are then a palladium content between 23 ⁇ and 31 ⁇ inclusive, or even between 23 ⁇ and 29 ⁇ inclusive, or even between 23 ⁇ and 27 ⁇ inclusive, to converge around a value of 25 ⁇ which appears a good compromise.
  • This grain refining element may be present, for example, at most at the rate of 2 ⁇ , or even 1 ⁇ , of at least one element chosen by way of example from Ru, Ir, Re, Co, V and Mo. elements such as Ir, Re or Ru make it possible to guarantee the fineness of the grain and to avoid porosities, without appreciably modifying the hardness, nor to affect the color, which is advantageous with respect to the desired object.
  • the alloys could further comprise other components, in addition to the aforementioned components Au, Cu, Pd and In, and any grain refiners, among Ca, Sr, Si , Ti, Zr, Mg.
  • the sum of the rates of all the elements of the alloy excluding gold and copper is less than or equal to 40 ⁇ .
  • the alloy may consist of these only four components Au, Cu, Pd, In, with one (or more) possible (s) refiner (s) grain.
  • the different figures also illustrate a particular technical effect obtained with the addition of calcium Ca and / or silicon Si, in a very small amount, on reducing the discoloration of the alloys mentioned by way of example.
  • a very small quantity especially less than or equal to 10 ⁇ , or even 7 ⁇ , or even 5 ⁇ , for calcium, and / or less than or equal to 2 ⁇ , or even 0.5 ⁇ for silicon, is sufficient to significantly reduce discoloration with the time of the alloys illustrated, without having any noticeable effect on the color itself, since a sufficient copper content, preferably greater than or equal to 180 ⁇ , more preferably greater than or equal to 200 ⁇ , is used .
  • this effect of the Ca and Si components is also check on any other pink gold alloy, not necessarily including palladium and / or indium.
  • such a pink gold alloy according to the embodiments of the invention advantageously does not include silver, which would induce the negative effect of yellowing the color of the alloy and even stretch this color towards an unsightly greenish color, moving it away from the desired pink.
  • silver does not have a very effective effect on the behavior over time of the color, compared to the other alloys studied. So there are two good reasons to exclude money from all of the achievements proposed above. However, alloys containing small amounts of money are not totally excluded since they could still take back the advantages mentioned above, if they are preponderant over the effect of money. The same conclusion is obtained for manganese. Other tests have also shown that zinc, chromium, or iron have no effect on the behavior over time of the color.
  • the alloys described will therefore be particularly effective for making all or part of a timepiece, such as a watch case, a bracelet, a watch, etc., or a piece of jewelry or jewelery.
  • a timepiece, jewelery or jewelry means the manufacture of all or a significant part of the thickness of a timepiece, not a simple surface coating.
  • the tests studied and described previously relate to massive volumes of certain alloys.
  • the parts considered comprise a large amount of alloy, advantageously in the form of a solid alloy capable of being deformed and to be polished, especially comprising at least a portion of thickness greater than or equal to 0.1 mm.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Electric Clocks (AREA)
  • Electroplating And Plating Baths Therefor (AREA)
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EP14705988.5A 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose Active EP2954080B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP14705988.5A EP2954080B1 (fr) 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP13154296 2013-02-06
EP13155142 2013-02-13
EP14150827 2014-01-10
EP14705988.5A EP2954080B1 (fr) 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose
PCT/EP2014/052372 WO2014122234A1 (fr) 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2954080A1 EP2954080A1 (fr) 2015-12-16
EP2954080B1 true EP2954080B1 (fr) 2017-03-15

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EP14704109.9A Active EP2954079B1 (fr) 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose
EP14703078.7A Active EP2954078B1 (fr) 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose
EP14705988.5A Active EP2954080B1 (fr) 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose

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EP14703078.7A Active EP2954078B1 (fr) 2013-02-06 2014-02-06 Piece d'horlogerie en alliage d'or rose

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (3) US20150368757A1 (zh)
EP (3) EP2954079B1 (zh)
JP (5) JP6595344B2 (zh)
CN (4) CN104968812A (zh)
CH (3) CH707537B1 (zh)
WO (3) WO2014122233A1 (zh)

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2925896B1 (en) 2012-12-03 2019-11-06 Argor-Heraeus S.A. Discoloration-resistant gold alloy
EP3040790A1 (fr) * 2014-12-29 2016-07-06 Montres Breguet S.A. Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie en alliage précieux léger à base de titane
EP3571325A4 (en) * 2017-03-27 2020-11-18 Pethe, Subodh HARD GOLD ALLOY WITH ZIRCONIUM, TITANIUM AND MAGNESIUM FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF JEWELRY
EP3575421B1 (fr) 2018-06-01 2022-09-14 Omega SA Piece d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie ou de joaillerie en alliage a base d'or
CH715203B1 (fr) 2018-07-26 2022-03-15 Px Services Sa Alliage à base d'or présentant un changement de couleur et son utilisation dans le domaine de la joaillerie et de l'horlogerie.
KR102610328B1 (ko) 2018-12-17 2023-12-06 현대자동차주식회사 로즈골드색 구리 합금 및 이의 용도
IT201900001769A1 (it) * 2019-02-07 2020-08-07 Italfimet Srl Lega d'oro rosa, procedimento di realizzazione ed uso.
JP6716071B1 (ja) * 2019-08-16 2020-07-01 ラブロ コロマー ジャウム 装飾品

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CH707538A8 (fr) 2014-10-15
JP2016514201A (ja) 2016-05-19
CH707537A2 (fr) 2014-08-15
WO2014122234A1 (fr) 2014-08-14
JP2016513176A (ja) 2016-05-12
CH707538A2 (fr) 2014-08-15
EP2954078A1 (fr) 2015-12-16
CN111809076A (zh) 2020-10-23
CH707537B1 (fr) 2017-01-13
CH707539A8 (fr) 2014-10-15
CH707538B1 (fr) 2017-12-15
CH707539B1 (fr) 2017-01-13
US20160306327A2 (en) 2016-10-20
EP2954079A1 (fr) 2015-12-16
WO2014122235A1 (fr) 2014-08-14
WO2014122233A1 (fr) 2014-08-14
US20150368756A1 (en) 2015-12-24
EP2954079B1 (fr) 2020-08-19
US20150368757A1 (en) 2015-12-24
JP6595343B2 (ja) 2019-10-23
US10514661B2 (en) 2019-12-24
CN104968812A (zh) 2015-10-07
JP2019123943A (ja) 2019-07-25
US20150378311A1 (en) 2015-12-31
CH707537A8 (fr) 2014-10-15
JP6595344B2 (ja) 2019-10-23
EP2954078B1 (fr) 2020-05-06
JP2016513175A (ja) 2016-05-12
EP2954080A1 (fr) 2015-12-16
JP2019122776A (ja) 2019-07-25
CN104968813A (zh) 2015-10-07
CN104968811A (zh) 2015-10-07
CH707539A2 (fr) 2014-08-15

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