EP2659797B1 - Vêtement pour la partie supérieure du corps - Google Patents

Vêtement pour la partie supérieure du corps Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2659797B1
EP2659797B1 EP10861244.1A EP10861244A EP2659797B1 EP 2659797 B1 EP2659797 B1 EP 2659797B1 EP 10861244 A EP10861244 A EP 10861244A EP 2659797 B1 EP2659797 B1 EP 2659797B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gusset
underarm
body piece
convex part
line
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP10861244.1A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP2659797A4 (fr
EP2659797A1 (fr
Inventor
Yutaka Koga
Yoshikuni Takamoto
Mamoru Omuro
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Asics Corp
Original Assignee
Asics Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Asics Corp filed Critical Asics Corp
Publication of EP2659797A1 publication Critical patent/EP2659797A1/fr
Publication of EP2659797A4 publication Critical patent/EP2659797A4/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2659797B1 publication Critical patent/EP2659797B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/18Elastic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00Shirts
    • A41B1/08Details
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D13/00Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches
    • A41D13/0015Sports garments other than provided for in groups A41D13/0007 - A41D13/088
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10Sleeves; Armholes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an upper garment that is provided with underarm gussets and thus can satisfactorily follow even a strong movement of arms.
  • Fig. 14 illustrates a base portion of a sleeve, in which: a line 10 of a body is indicated by an alternate long and short dash line; a line 11 of an upper garment with a gusset is indicated by a solid line; and a line 12 of an upper garment without a gusset is indicated by a chain line.
  • a gusset is provided in an underarm portion of the upper garment as illustrated in Fig. 14 , an arm hole bottom a (a portion that is most concave under the arm) of the upper garment can be set to a high position, and an underarm size b (a range indicated by an arrow) can be lengthened. Hence, a better fit can be obtained, and the arm can be raised more smoothly.
  • conventional gusset shapes include: a straight gusset 13 that is provided in a region from the hem to the cuff through the underarm and has a substantially constant width, as illustrated in Fig. 15 ; a spindle-shaped gusset 14 (Patent Literature 1) that is provided in the same region and has a width that gradually becomes larger from each of the hem and the cuff toward the underarm, as illustrated in Fig. 5 ; and a rhombic gusset 15 provided near the underarm, as illustrated in Fig. 16 .
  • Patent Literature 1 Japanese Utility Model No. 3109859
  • the arm hole bottom a is set to a high position as illustrated in Fig. 14 , the underarm portion of the upper garment can be fitted to the body 10, and the underarm size b is lengthened. Hence, the arm can be raised more easily.
  • the arm hole bottom a is set at an excessively high position, when the arm is lowered, the allowance around a shoulder becomes insufficient, so that tightening in the underarm and the shoulder upper part increases.
  • a tightening force direction in the shoulder upper part is indicated by an arrow c.
  • the cloth can have an allowance under the arm, and hence tightening force in the underarm is alleviated.
  • the cloth cannot have an allowance in the shoulder upper part, and hence tightening force in the shoulder upper part cannot be alleviated.
  • the conventional gussets have problems that tightening around shoulders is large and that unfavorable pulling by the stitches f is large.
  • the present invention has an object to provide an upper garment having a gusset structure that is less likely to cause tightening around shoulders and unfavorable pulling by stitches even if arm hole bottoms are set to high positions in order to facilitate raising of arms.
  • An upper garment includes: a front body piece; a back body piece; sleeves; and elongated gussets that each extend toward a flank hem and a cuff from each underarm of the front body piece and the back body piece, the front body piece, the back body piece, the sleeves, and the gussets being integrally sewn to each other.
  • Each of the gussets includes three blocks of a flank part, an underarm part, and a sleeve part.
  • the flank part and the sleeve part of the gusset each have both side edges defined by a gently curved line or a straight line.
  • the underarm part of the gusset includes a front convex part and a back convex part at both side edges of a front underarm part and a back underarm part, the front convex part and the back convex part being gradually curved so as to become largest in width in a vicinity of an arm hole bottom.
  • the front body piece, the back body piece, and each of the sleeves to which the front convex part and the back convex part of the gusset are sewn are configured in different shapes without concaves that are matched with the front convex part and the back convex part of the gusset.
  • a material of the gusset has higher elastic force and is more difficult to bend in a width direction than a material of the body piece.
  • a length of the gusset is larger than a length from a waist line to an elbow line through the underarm.
  • a length of the gusset is smaller than a length from a waist line to an elbow line through the underarm.
  • the gusset extends from a vicinity of a waist line to a vicinity of an elbow line through the underarm.
  • the front convex part and the back convex part that are gradually curved so as to become largest in width in the vicinity of the arm hole bottom are formed at both the side edges of the front underarm part and the back underarm part of the gusset, and hence the front convex part and the back convex part serve as an allowance.
  • the body piece to which the front convex part and the back convex part are sewn is configured in a different shape without the concaves that are matched with the front convex part and the back convex part of the gusset. As a result, pushing-up force is applied from the gusset to the body piece, tightening force in a shoulder upper part is reduced, and unfavorable pulling by stitches for sewing the gusset and the body piece is less likely to occur.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematic view of an upper garment 1 according to the present invention, which illustrates a state before a left gusset 2 is sewn.
  • the gusset 2 includes three blocks of a flank part A, an underarm part B, and a sleeve part C.
  • the underarm part B corresponds to a region d in which skin stretching of the body is large during an arm raising motion.
  • a front convex part 3 and a back convex part 4 that are gradually curved so as to become largest in width in the vicinity of an arm hole bottom a are formed on both sides of a front underarm part and a back underarm part of the region d.
  • a chain line with reference sign 5 indicates a profile line of an underarm part of a conventional straight gusset 13.
  • Both sides of each of the flank part A and the sleeve part C are formed in a belt-like pattern that is straight or has substantially constant curvature.
  • the underarm part B corresponds to the region d in which skin stretching of the body is large during an arm raising motion.
  • the boundary between the underarm part B and the flank part A is located in a chest cross section passing through a point at which a pectoralis major muscle G is in contact with an anterior layer H of the uppermost part of the rectus sheath in the abdominal part, and the boundary between the underarm part B and the sleeve part C is located in an upper arm cross section passing through a point at which a deltoid muscle I is in contact with a deltoid tuberosity J of the upper arm bone.
  • the chest-side position is in the vicinity of a front underarm point K, that is, at an upper edge point of a fold in the boundary between the body trunk and the arm on the front side around the arm base as illustrated in Fig. 2B
  • the back-side position is in the vicinity of a back underarm point L, that is, at an upper edge point of a fold in the boundary between the body trunk and the arm on the back side around the arm base as illustrated in Fig. 2C .
  • the width of the underarm part B is set to: a range of 10 to 14% of the chest measurement in the boundary portion between the underarm part B and the flank part A; a range of 14 to 22% of the chest measurement at the positions of the apexes of the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4; and a range of 9 to 13% of the chest measurement in the boundary portion between the underarm part B and the sleeve part C.
  • Fig. 3 illustrates a left front body piece D, an upper sleeve E, and a left back body piece F constituting a body piece to which the left gusset 2 according to the present invention is sewn.
  • underarm profile lines of the body piece to which the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 of the underarm part B of the gusset 2 according to the present invention are sewn are not matched with profile lines of the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4. That is, the body piece is not provided with concaves 6 that are coincident with the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 of the gusset 2, and the underarm profile lines thereof are curved lines having substantially constant curvature.
  • the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 having both sides that are gradually curved so as to become largest in width in the arm hole bottom a are formed in the region d in which skin stretching of the body is large during an arm raising motion. Then, the underarm profile lines of the body piece to which the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 of the gusset 2 are sewn are configured in different shapes without the concaves 6 that are matched with the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4.
  • Comparative Example 1 for carrying out a comparative experiment uses the straight gusset 13.
  • the straight gusset 13 is not provided with protruding parts in its underarm part, and has a shape illustrated in Fig. 4 , which is equivalent to a shape obtained by removing the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 from the gusset 2 in the present invention.
  • Comparative Example 2 for carrying out a comparative experiment uses a spindle-shaped gusset 14.
  • the spindle-shaped gusset 14 gradually becomes larger in width toward its underarm part, and has a shape illustrated in Fig. 5 .
  • the width L of the arm hole bottom a largest in width of the underarm part of the gusset 14 in Comparative Example 2 is set to be the same as the width of the arm hole bottom a of the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 in the present invention.
  • Comparative Example 3 for carrying out a comparative experiment uses a spindle-shaped gusset 16.
  • the spindle-shaped gusset 16 gradually becomes larger toward its underarm part.
  • the width L of the arm hole bottom a of the underarm part of the spindle-shaped gusset 16 is set to be smaller than that in Comparative Example 2, and areas S 1 and S 2 of portions of the spindle-shaped gusset 16 are respectively set to be the same as areas S 1 and S 2 of the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 of the gusset in the present invention, the portions spreading outward from a profile line 5 of the straight gusset 13 not including the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 in its underarm part.
  • Comparative Example 4 for carrying out a comparative experiment uses a gusset having the same gusset shape as that of the gusset 2 according to the present invention.
  • the concaves 6 that are matched with the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 of the gusset are formed in profile lines of a front body piece, an upper sleeve, and a back body piece to which the front convex part 3 and the back convex part 4 are sewn.
  • Alternate long and short dash lines 9 in Fig. 7 indicate underarm profile lines of the body piece in the present invention.
  • the profile lines of the front body piece D, the upper sleeve E, and the back body piece F to which the front line and the back line of the gusset are sewn have shapes matched with the front line and the back line of the gusset.
  • the stitch line f in the region d in which skin stretching is large, the stitch line f is curved to a large degree, an angle 0 formed by the stitch line f and the skin stretching line e is large, and the stitch line f does not hinder the skin stretching.
  • the straight gusset 13 in the region d in which skin stretching is large, the angle ⁇ formed by the stitch line f and the skin stretching line e is small, and the stitch line f hinders the skin stretching.
  • the material of the gusset 2 used in the embodiment of the present invention may be the same as that of the body piece, but if a material that has higher elastic force and is more difficult to bend in the width direction than the material of the body piece is used for the gusset 2, the pushing-up force applied from the gusset to the body piece and the tightening force in the shoulder upper part are more improved.
  • the length of the gusset 2 used in the embodiment of the present invention may be set to be larger or smaller than the length from a waist line to an elbow line through the underarm. Similar effects can be obtained even in the case as illustrated in Fig. 13A and Fig. 13B where the gusset 2 is extended from the vicinity of a waist line M to the vicinity of an elbow line N through the underarm.
  • the waist line M refers to an outer circumferential line of a cross section passing through a middle point between the rib lower ends and the pelvis upper end
  • the elbow line N refers to an outer circumferential line of a cross section passing through the olecranon.
  • an upper garment according to the present invention can apply pushing-up force from a gusset to a body piece, can reduce tightening force in a shoulder upper part, and is less likely to cause unfavorable pulling by stitches for sewing the gusset and the body piece. Accordingly, the upper garment according to the present invention is best suited to, particularly, sportswear for volleyball, baseball, and the like that require a strong up-and-down movement of arms.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Claims (7)

  1. Haut comprenant :
    un élément corporel avant (D) ;
    un élément corporel arrière (F) ;
    des manches (E) ; et
    des goussets allongés (2) qui s'étendent chacun vers un ourlet de flanc et un poignet à partir de l'aisselle de l'élément corporel avant (D) et de l'élément corporel arrière (F),
    l'élément corporel avant (D), l'élément corporel arrière (F), les manches (E), et les goussets (2) étant cousus intégralement l'un à l'autre,
    chacun des goussets (2) comprenant trois blocs d'une partie de flanc, d'une partie d'aisselle, et d'une partie de manche,
    la partie de flanc et la partie de manche du gousset (2) ayant chacune les deux bords latéraux définis par une ligne légèrement incurvée ou une ligne droite,
    la partie d'aisselle du gousset (2) comprenant une partie convexe avant (3) et une partie convexe arrière (4) aux deux bords latéraux d'une partie d'aisselle avant et d'une partie d'aisselle arrière, la partie convexe avant (3) et la partie convexe arrière (4) étant progressivement incurvées afin de devenir plus grandes dans la largeur à proximité d'un fond de trou de bras,
    caractérisé en ce que l'élément corporel avant (D), l'élément corporel arrière (F), et chacune des manches (E) auxquelles la partie convexe avant (3) et la partie convexe arrière (4) du gousset (2) sont cousues sont configurés de différentes formes sans concavités (6) qui correspondent à la partie convexe avant (3) et la partie convexe arrière (4) du gousset (2), et
    un matériau du gousset (2) présente une résistance élastique supérieure et est plus difficile à fléchir dans un sens de la largeur par rapport à un matériau de l'élément corporel (D, F).
  2. Haut selon la revendication 1,
    une longueur du gousset (2) étant supérieure à une longueur depuis une ligne de ceinture vers une ligne de coude à travers l'aisselle.
  3. Haut selon la revendication 1,
    une longueur du gousset (2) étant inférieure à une longueur depuis une ligne de ceinture vers une ligne de coude à travers l'aisselle.
  4. Haut selon la revendication 3,
    la longueur du gousset (2) étant inférieure à une longueur depuis la ligne de ceinture vers la ligne de coude à travers l'aisselle et une tubérosité du deltoïde.
  5. Haut selon la revendication 1,
    le gousset (2) s'étendant depuis une proximité d'une ligne de ceinture vers une proximité d'une ligne de coude à travers l'aisselle.
  6. Haut selon la revendication 1,
    le gousset (2) s'étendant vers le poignet.
  7. Haut selon la revendication 1,
    le gousset (2) s'étendant vers un ourlet de flanc.
EP10861244.1A 2010-12-27 2010-12-27 Vêtement pour la partie supérieure du corps Active EP2659797B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/JP2010/073528 WO2012090265A1 (fr) 2010-12-27 2010-12-27 Vêtement pour la partie supérieure du corps

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2659797A1 EP2659797A1 (fr) 2013-11-06
EP2659797A4 EP2659797A4 (fr) 2016-06-01
EP2659797B1 true EP2659797B1 (fr) 2018-02-07

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP10861244.1A Active EP2659797B1 (fr) 2010-12-27 2010-12-27 Vêtement pour la partie supérieure du corps

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20130312154A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2659797B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP5563672B2 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012090265A1 (fr)

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JP2014034755A (ja) * 2012-08-10 2014-02-24 Mizuno Corp スポーツ用上衣
US10729187B2 (en) 2013-09-20 2020-08-04 John Inzer Support shirt with sleeve reinforcement regions
JP6313580B2 (ja) * 2013-11-29 2018-04-18 株式会社チクマ 上衣
JP5948375B2 (ja) * 2014-07-29 2016-07-06 有限会社 中澤研究室 衣服
US10721980B2 (en) * 2015-03-13 2020-07-28 John Inzer Notch sleeve support shirt
JP6750803B2 (ja) * 2015-10-26 2020-09-02 倉敷紡績株式会社 上衣
US10829875B2 (en) 2016-05-31 2020-11-10 Nike, Inc. Knit sleeve pattern
CN113194770A (zh) * 2019-11-29 2021-07-30 Nsw株式会社 双面衬衫

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2659797A4 (fr) 2016-06-01
EP2659797A1 (fr) 2013-11-06
JPWO2012090265A1 (ja) 2014-06-05
US20130312154A1 (en) 2013-11-28
WO2012090265A1 (fr) 2012-07-05
JP5563672B2 (ja) 2014-07-30

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