US2426819A

US2426819A - Garment and garment construction

Info

Publication number: US2426819A
Application number: US627009A
Authority: US
Inventors: Clyne Joseph
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1945-11-06
Filing date: 1945-11-06
Publication date: 1947-09-02
Anticipated expiration: 1964-09-02

Description

Sept. 2, 1947. J. CLYNE 2,426,819

GARMENT-AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Nov. 6, 1945 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR JOSEPH CLYNE ATTORNEYS p 947. J. CLYNE I 2,426,819

' GARMENT AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed NOV. 6, 1945 .3 Sh eets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR JOSEPH GLYNE ATTORNEYS Sept. 2, 1947. .1. CLYNE GARMENT AND GARMENT CCNSTI iUCTION Filed Nov. 6, 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR JOSEPH CLYNE lzmu ia l ATTORNEYS Patented Sept. 2, 1947 HNETED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Joseph Clyne, Bronx, N. Y.

Application November 6, 1945, Serial No. 627,009

12 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in the structure of garments such as coats, jackets, blouses, waists, shirts and similar type garments, and more particularly to an improvement in the structure of the sleeve, shoulder and side section of the waist of the garment, especially garments provided with sleeves of the balmacaan, raglan or dolman type and similar types of sleeves in which the shoulder and sleeve are integral.

In most garments having sleeve constructions of the type referred to, it is very common to find that the wearers arm is difiicult to raise and that when it i raised, there is considerable strain on the upper muscle because of the manner in which the lower portions of the sleeve are attached to the body of the garment. Fur coats, for example, are often provided with sleeves of the abovementioned types, and it is noteworthy that such coats rip or tear rather quickly around the arms, either in front or in back of the sleeve, or the stitching is torn out under the sleeve so that the garment must be repaired. Various garments, such as raincoats, top coats and other garments provided with sleeves of the above types are particularly confining because of construction about the sleeve when the wearer is in sitting position. Tension of this type on the arms of the wearer causes the garment to be pulled out of place, unnecessary discomfort, and prevents the wearer from using his arms freely.

The primary object therefore of the present invention is to provide an improved garment structure which will obviate the objections and uncomfortableness referred to.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved garment construction having sleeves of the type referred to which will not only be comfortable to the wearer but which will give longer and more satisfactory service.

Another object-of the invention is to provide an improved garment structure having a combined sleeve and waist arrangement such that the wearer will have free arm movement.

According to the features of my invention, the improved garment structure comprises a sleeve of the type referred to above in which at least a part of the sleeve includes an integral armpit section allowance which when combined with the waist section of the garment gives a structure permitting free arm movement. At least a part of the allowance may be an integral part of the section of the garment.

A garment including these features, according to one form of my invention, includes a waist structure having front and back sections, a side section joined by seams between. the front and back sections and including an integral underarm allowance which is also integral with an under sleeve for the garment. of construction, the. remainder of the sleeve, that is the top sleeve section, comprises two pieces which are sewed together and. to the under sleeve and which include the shoulder section of the garment. In other forms of construction front and back sleeve sections are provided integral with front and back waist sections of of the garment.

My invention. includes other features, objects and advantages which will be described more in detail below in connection with the accompanying drawings forming a part of this application.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing sleeve and body elements of an. improved garment construction according to my invention, in which the elements are separated in patternlike form' in approximately the arrangement in which they are to be joined together.

Fig. 2 is a View partly to one side of the waist section of the garment illustrating the style and arrangement effected when the elements shown in. Fig. 1 are joined together.

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing front and back sections of the waist portion of a garment adopted for sleeves of the raglan type.

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing front and back sleeve constructions for use with the elements of the garment shown, in Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic pattern type View showing an integral assembly of side panel, arm-- pit allowance and under sleeve, for use with the elements shown in Figs. 3 and 4..

Fig. 6 is a View partly to one side illustrating the style of a garment constructed fro-m the elements shown in Figs. 3, 4. and 5.

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing the front waist section of a garment of the raglan sleeve type.

Fig. 8 is a view showing the back of a garment of the raglan sleeve type in pattern form and which includes an integral armpit allowance and under sleeve.

Fig. 9 is a pattern type view showing a onepiece sleeve or a combined front and back sleeve for use with the elements shown in Figs. 7 and 8.

Fig. 10 is a view similar to that of Figs. 2 and. 6 showing the waist section of a garment constructed of the elements shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9.

In certain forms Fig. 11 is a pattern type view similar to that of Fig. 3 showing front and back sections of a garment having raglan type sleeves.

Fig. 12 is a view similar to that of Fig. 4.

Fig. 13 is a pattern type view of an under sleeve including an integral armpit allowance.

Fig. 14 is a. view partly to one side, showing a waist portion of a garment constructed of the elements shown in Figs. 11, 12 and 13.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings which show a garment having a waist section constructed of a front portion I which includes an integral front sleeve section l2, 2. back section [4 including an integral back sleeve l6, and a one-piece side and sleeve section 48 including an intgeral side panel 20, an armpit allowance 22 of the shape shown, and an under sleeve 24.

The three elements shown in Fig. 1 are sewed together to form a garment having the waist structure shown in Fig. 2. In assembling the pieces, the edge 26 is attached to the edge 28 and the wing-like portions ofthe allowance 22 are sewed, respectively into the front and back notches 30 and 32 between the sleeve sections of the garment and the body sections.

The free arm movement provided by the garment structure illustrated in Fig. 2, is shown by the upraised arm and the manner in which the generally diamond-shaped allowance 22 fits into the body and the sleeve sections of the garment in order to give the necessary freedom. It will be noted that the long dimension of the diamondshaped allowance extends from front to back of the garment at the armpit or generally cross-wise of, the under sleeve panel, and that each wing of the allowance 22 fits directly into a notch 30 or 32 which may be merely out in the material without the removal of any material to form the notch.

Figs. $3, 4, and 6 show a modified form of garment construction in which the waist section of the garment includes a front section 34 and a back section 36, cut for the regular raglan type of sleeve or shoulder construction, except that the

elements

34 and 36 are narrower than the standard pattern to the extent of the strip areas 38 outside the

sections

34 and 36 and within the dotted lines. The garment also includes a back sleeve 40 (Fig. 4) and a front sleeve 42 having integral shoulder sections 44 of the raglan type. The sleeve sections 46 and 42 are narrower than those of the standard pattern to the extent of the strip areas 46 between the edges of the sleeve sections and the dotted lines. The garment as shown in Fig. 6 is similar to that shown in Fig. 2, except for the difference in the shoulder construction, and therefore includes the element 68 of Fig. 5 comprising an integral side panel 56, under arm allowance 52, and under sleeve 54, of generally the same construction as that shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The elements shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 5 are sewed together and combined so as to produce the style and structure shown in Fig. 6.

Figs. 7, 8, 9 and show a modified form of garment construction of the raglan type and having features similar to those of Figs. 3 to 6. Fig. 7 shows a back section 56 which is substantially narrower than the standard pattern, while Fig. 8 shows a front section 58 having an integral side panel section 60, an allowance 62 and an under sleeve 64, both integral with the front section 58. In Fig. 8 the allowance 62 has generally the same shape as the

allowance

22 and 52 in Figs. 1 and 5, and the material is preferably cut at 66 so that it is resewed to the front section in order to have the seams take up some of the material and to provide a symmetrical design as shown in Fig. 10. The garment of Fig. 10 is provided with a one-piece top sleeve 88 of the shape shown in Fig. 9, which includes an integral shoulder section 10 the sleeve being narrower than the standard pattern to the extent of strip areas 72 within the dotted lines. The elements shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9 are assembled in a manner similar to that of Figs. 1 and 3 to 5 to form a garment having the waist construction and style shown in Fig. 10, thi garment providing unusual freedom of arm movement and simplicity of construction because of the allowance 62 and the under sleeve 64 combined with the one-piece sleeve 68 and the integral shoulder section 10.

Figs. 11, 12, 13 and 14 show a modified form of garment construction which is somewhat similar to that of Figs. 3. to 6. Fig. 11, however, shows a front section M and a back section i=6, both of standard pattern for a raglan type garment. Fig. 12 shows a back sleeve section 13 and a front sleeve section 8!} which are narrower than the standard patterns by the strip areas 82 within the dotted lines. The sections 18 and 86 include the integral shoulder sections as in Fig. 4. Fig. 13 shows an under sleeve 82 having an integral allowance 3 3 of generally the same shape as the allowances previously described, the pattern of the material in Fig. 13 being of generally sledge-hammer form. The elements of Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are combined to form the garment structure shown in Fig. 14.

My improved garment construction illustrated by the examples iven above, comprises a combination particularly advantageous in connection with balmacaan, raglan, dolman and similar type sleeves, to provide a garment which gives freedom of movement of the wearers arms without binding the arm muscles and without distorting the garment on the body of the wearer. The provision of the underarm allowances-of the particular structures described above appears to oifset the normal binding character of the particular types of sleeves referred to. It is therefore possible, according to my invention to provide garments having sleeves of the type of the helmetcaan, raglan and dolman, and at the same time have a garment in which the wearer has unusual freedom of arm movement.

From the foregoing description and examples shown in the drawings, it will be apparent that certain variations may be made in the structure and arrangement of the allowances in combination with sleeves which include the shoulder sections of the garment and. still achieve most of the objects and advantages of my invention. It is furthermore to be understood that the features of my invention may be employed in the making of the waist portion of various types of garments such as jackets, shirts, ladies waists, coats, raincoats and other types of wearing apparel. The modifications and changes referred to which will be apparent from the foregoing description and illustrations are contemplated as coming within the spirit and scope of my invention as defined by the appended claims.

What I claim as new is:

1. In a garment having sleeves of the raglan type, an improved waist construction including front and back sections joined together by a seam below the armpit of the garment, a sleeve for the garment including a top sleeve section having an integral shoulder section and a separate panellike under sleeve section for the garment, said under sleeve section including an integral allowance for the armpit of the garment, said allowance being substantially wider than the under sleeve section and symmetrically placed at the armpit end of the under sleeve section, and scams joining the sleeve sections together and the sleeve and allowance to the front and back sections of the garment.

2. In a garment having sleeves, an improved waist construction including front and back sections, a top sleeve for the garment including sections respectively integral with the front and back sections of the garment, an under sleeve for the garment including an integral allowance for the armpit of the garment, said allowance being substantially wider than the under sleeve and symmetrically placed at the armpit end of the under sleeve, and seams joining the under sleeve and top sleeve.

3. In a sleeved garment an improved waist construction having a body portion including front and back sections, a top sleeve for the garment, an under sleeve for the garment of panel-like structure including an integral allowance at its armpit end for the armpit of the garment, said allowance being of generally oval shape with the longer dimension of the oval-shaped allowance extending generally from front to back at the armpit of the garment, said oval-shaped allowance being substantially wider than the panellike sleeve and symmetrically placed at the armpit end of the under sleeve, seams joining the top sleeve to the under sleeve and to the allowance, and scams joining the sleeve and allowance to the front and back sections of the garment.

4. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 3 in which the generally oval-shaped allowance is also integral with a section of the body portion of the garment.

5. In a sleeved garment, an improved waist portion including a front section, a side section, and a back section, the front and back sections being joined to the side section by seams in the front and back of the armpit portion of the garment, said side section comprising an integral part of a panel providing an under sleeve for the garment, said panel including a substantial integral allowance for the armpit portion of the garment which is substantially wider than the under sleeve, a top sleeve, seams joining the under sleeve and top sleeve, seams joining the allowance to the top sleeve and to the front and back sections, and seams joining the topsleeve to the front and back sections of the garment, whereby a garment is provided which permits free arm movement without distorting the position of the garment on the wearer and without binding the arm muscles of the wearer.

6. In a garment as defined by claim 5 in which the allowance is symmetrical with respect to the under sleeve and side section and is generally of diamond shape.

7. In a garment as defined by claim 3 in which the allowance includes a substantial section extending into the sleeve and a substantial section extending into the body portion of the waist of the garment.

8. In a garment as defined by claim 3 in which the allowance in pattern form has substantially a flattened octagonal shape.

9. In a sleeved garment having a waist portion comprising front and back sections, a sleeve for the garment including a top sleeve and a panel-like under sleeve joined together by seams, an armpit allowance of substantial area integral with and symmetrically placed at the armpit end of the under sleeve, the allowance being substantially wider than the under sleeve proper, the armpit end of the under sleeve and allowance in pattern form including a projection of material on each side of the end of the under sleeve, each projection being defined by an edge extending laterally at an abrupt angle to the edge of the under sleeve and. a connecting edge extending beyond and generally parallel to the edge of the under sleeve, seams joining the laterally extending edges of the allowance on each side of the under sleeve to the top sleeve, and seams joining the sleeve and allowance to the waist portion of the garment.

10. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 9 in which the top sleeve comprises front and back sections joined by a top seam.

11. A one-piece sleeve section, for use in forming a garment, having a portion to be positioned at the armpit of the garment of generally oval shape, said portion being so positioned with respect to the sleeve section that when said section is included in a garment said portion extends generally from front to back of the garment, said oval-shaped portion being substantially wider than said sleeve section and symmetrically positioned with respect thereto.

12. A one-piece, elongated, panel-like sleeve section, for use in forming a garment, having a portion of generally oval shape at one end thereof with the greatest dimension of said portion extending transversely of said panel-like section, said oval-shaped portion being substantially wider than said panel-like section and positioned symmetrically with respect thereto.

JOSEPH CLYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 483,686 Goodman Oct. 4, 1892 1,388,563 Hanson Aug. 23, 1921 1,965,995 Tripp July 10, 1934 1,986,217 Pilla Jan, 1, 1935 2,291,025 Casella July 28, 194'2 2,021,586 Adler Nov. 19, 1935 2,390,188 Sholder Dec. 4, 1945 2,312,777 Sholder et al. Mar. 2, 1943 2,104,288 Blood Jan. 4, 1938 2,369,416 Solomon Feb. 13, 1945 2,386,768 Ayoub Oct. 16, 1945 2,179,675 Trageser Nov. 14, 1939