EP2618801B1 - Composition cosmétique comportant au moins un sel hygroscopique, un éther de polyol aromatique et un diol, et procédé de traitement cosmétique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comportant au moins un sel hygroscopique, un éther de polyol aromatique et un diol, et procédé de traitement cosmétique Download PDF

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EP2618801B1
EP2618801B1 EP11764148.0A EP11764148A EP2618801B1 EP 2618801 B1 EP2618801 B1 EP 2618801B1 EP 11764148 A EP11764148 A EP 11764148A EP 2618801 B1 EP2618801 B1 EP 2618801B1
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hair
cosmetic composition
composition according
glycol
chosen
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EP2618801B2 (fr
EP2618801A2 (fr
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Anne-Sophie Albert
Grégory Plos
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more polyol ethers containing an aromatic group, one or more non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diols and one or more hygroscopic water soluble salts in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, and also to a use employing the said cosmetic composition.
  • Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
  • Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.
  • high relative humidity of the air usually leads to swelling of the head of hair and to the appearance of frizziness, which makes the head of hair increasingly difficult to manage.
  • These haircare compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick.
  • compositions may comprise silicones, which are used as conditioning agents, so as to give the hair a satisfactory level of care and good control of the volume of the head of hair.
  • silicones often have the drawback of making the hair very lank and heavy, which leads to the phenomenon commonly known as the "build-up effect". In other words, silicones become deposited in a large amount of material, which has the consequence of making the head of hair lank and of limiting the use of silicones for conditioning the hair.
  • a conditioning shampoo composition comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, at least one non-volatile conditioning agent chosen from insoluble silicones, water-soluble organic cationic compounds such as cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, and salts of polyvalent cationic metal.
  • Japanese patent application JP 2003/095 891 concerns a rinse-out hair composition intended to be used as a hair conditioner, containing at least one long-chain fatty alcohol, a quaternary ammonium salt bearing at least one chain formed from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and at least one water-soluble organic and/or inorganic salt, the pH of the composition at 30°C being between 5 and 6.5.
  • Japanese patent application JP 2000/191 514 describes a composition for cleansing sebum, the surface tension of which, relative to oleic acid at 25°C, ranges from 0 to 0.05 mN/m, containing a mineral salt, a nonionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant.
  • Japanese patent application JP 200247119 relates to a cleansing and moisturizing cosmetic composition containing Mg 2+ and Ca 2+ ions, the ratio [Mg]/[Ca] being between 0.2 and 3.6 and the total amount of Ca and Mg ions being from 0.052 to 4.2 mol/L.
  • Japanese patent application JP 01233208 relates to a treatment composition containing water-soluble substances such as inorganic salts, which create insoluble substances within the hair.
  • Cosmetic compositions based on hygroscopic salts generally contain chemical preserving agents due to their high water content and to the presence in these compositions of components such as vitamins and amino acids. The reason for this is that these components may especially promote the growth of microorganisms, which means that these compositions are liable to be contaminated during their manufacture, but also during their use by the consumer, in particular when products in jars are touched with the fingers.
  • chemical preserving agents protect compositions containing hygroscopic salts against the microorganisms that are liable to grow inside the compositions at the time of their manufacture and those that the user might introduce therein when handling them.
  • the chemical preserving agents that are conventionally used such as benzoic acid, have a tendency to inhibit the effects associated with hygroscopic salts and to degrade the cosmetic properties and also the maintenance of the volume of the head of hair that might be imparted by such compositions.
  • cosmetic compositions for example hair conditioners, that do not have the combination of drawbacks described above, i.e. which are capable of controlling the volume of the head hair and of conditioning the hair, especially by affording it softness, uniformity, sheen, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good capacity to be straightened, while at the same time being able to be conserved efficiently.
  • compositions for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres which have the desired properties, by combining in these compositions one or more polyol ethers containing an aromatic group, one or more non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diols and one or more hygroscopic water soluble salts, in a particular content.
  • such a combination can give keratin fibres, and more particularly the hair, improved cosmetic properties especially as regards the level of sheen, the smoothness, the suppleness, the lightness, the feel, the uniformity and the fineness, while at the same time controlling the volume of the hair.
  • hair treated with the compositions according to the invention is especially smoother, shinier, finer and lighter, and has a more silky feel.
  • compositions according to the invention lead to better control of the swelling of the head of hair, and can do so for various relative humidities, ranging in particular from 20% to 80%, which enables the hairstyle to remain in place more easily, allows better control of the volume of the hair and greatly reduces the frizziness.
  • the compositions according to the invention facilitate the shaping of hair.
  • relative humidity represents the measurement of the amount of water in the air. This measurement is taken using a machine such as a psychrometer or a capacitive-probe hygrometer, and is defined by the ratio of the pressure exerted by the water vapour contained in the air at a given temperature to the saturating vapour pressure (i.e. the maximum amount of water vapour that this air could absorb at this temperature). It is given as a percentage on a scale ranging from 0 to 100%.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention withstand contamination by microorganisms.
  • compositions according to the invention are also stable on storage, both at room temperature (20-25°C) and at 45°C, especially as regards their visual aspect and their viscosity.
  • the cosmetic compositions obtained also have good working properties, i.e. these compositions can be rinsed out easily and be spread more easily over the entire head of hair.
  • hair treated with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention also dries more quickly.
  • the present invention relates especially to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
  • the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a shampoo or as a hair conditioner, preferably as a hair conditioner.
  • the polyol ether containing one or more aromatic groups used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is ethylene glycol monophenyl ether (or phenoxyethanol).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also contains one or more non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diols.
  • non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diol means any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising two hydroxyl functions and from four to ten carbon atoms and not comprising any aromatic groups or any ether groups in its structure.
  • the non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diol(s) may be linear or branched.
  • the C 4 -C 10 diol(s) are linear.
  • the non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diol(s) according to the invention are acyclic.
  • the non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diol(s) according to the invention comprise from 6 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • the non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diol(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, pentylene glycol (or 1,2-pentanediol), 1,5-pentanediol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol (or caprylyl glycol), and mixtures thereof.
  • the diol is a vicinal diol, i.e. borne by two neighbouring, preferably adjacent, carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, the diol is a 1,2-diol.
  • the non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diol(s) may be chosen from non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 1,2-diols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diol used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is 1,2-octanediol.
  • the total content of polyol ethers containing an aromatic group and of non-aromatic and non-etherified C 4 -C 10 diols ranges from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition also comprises one or more hygroscopic water-soluble salts in a content ranging from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said cosmetic composition; the hygroscopic salt being calcium chloride.
  • hygroscopic salt means a salt that is capable of absorbing water from the surrounding atmosphere.
  • the hygroscopic salt(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention absorb at least 0.05 g of water per gram of salt at 25°C, at 25% relative humidity and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the hygroscopic salts of the invention are water-soluble.
  • water-soluble salt means a salt with a solubility of greater than or equal to 20 g/litre (g/L) in water measured at 20°C, preferentially a solubility of greater than or equal to 100 g/L and even more preferentially a solubility of greater than or equal to 500 g/L.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants selected from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.
  • cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention.
  • This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.
  • cationic surfactants that may be used in the cosmetic composition, mention may be made especially of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, an example that may be mentioned is stearylamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • the alkyl radicals R 22 may be linear or branched, but more particularly linear.
  • R 22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 27 , it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 29 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X - is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate or tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ester-functional ammonium.
  • the anion X - is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
  • the hydrocarbon-based radicals are advantageously linear. Examples that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (IV) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 15% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 15% to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radicals containing from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and being derived from palm oil that is optionally partially hydrogenated.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180 .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to formula (I).
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also, on the other hand, to distearoyl ethyl hydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyld
  • cationic surfactants from among cetyltrimethylammonium (INCI: cetrimonium), behenyltrimethylammonium (INCI: behentrimonium), dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethyl ammonium, distearoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, methyl(C 9 -C 19 ) alkyl(C 10 -C 20 )alkylamidoethylimidazolium and stearamidopropyldimethylamine salts (chloride or methosulfate), and the stearamidopropyldimethylammonium salt, and mixtures thereof, are preferably chosen.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the amount of the cationic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from CO 2 H, CO 2 - , SO 3 H, SO 3 - , OSO 3 H, OSO 3 - , H 2 PO 3 , HPO 3 - , PO 3 2- , H 2 PO 2 , HPO 2 , HPO 2 - , PO 2 - , POH and PO - groups.
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxy
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6-24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C 6-24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6-24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6-24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) (ii) when they are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants it is preferred, according to the invention, to use alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight and even better still from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not contain any anionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178 . They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, ⁇ -diols and (C 1-20 )alkylphenols, containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxy related fatty acid esters of sorb
  • the amount of the additional nonionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 30% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above that are preferably used are (C 8-20 alkyl)betaines and (C 8-20 alkyl)amido(C 6-8 alkyl)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (IV) and more particularly from cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicones.
  • the silicone(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions.
  • the polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press .
  • the silicone(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C and preferably 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 5 ⁇ 10 -2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R 2 SiO 2/2 , R 3 SiO 1/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R denotes a C 1 -C 4 lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.
  • organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • organomodified silicones mention may also be made of amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any polyaminosiloxane, i.e. any polysiloxane comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (V) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (VI) below: in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, preferably CH 3 ; a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene radical; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene radical
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" which are different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical
  • at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical
  • R' represents a methyl radical
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" represent a hydroxyl radical
  • R' represents a methyl radical
  • A is a C 4 -C 8 and preferably C 4 alkylene radical.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000.
  • a product of this type is especially sold under the name DC 28299 by Dow Corning.
  • the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; ⁇ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/m; 200 ⁇ l of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (V) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary (7th edition, 1997) as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VII) below: in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (V) or (VI).
  • x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • the silicone(s) that are particularly preferred are polysiloxanes containing amine groups such as the silicones of formula (VI) or the silicones of formula (VII).
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Cationic Emulsion DC 929 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant comprising a mixture of products corresponding to formula (X): in which R 5 denotes C 14 -C 22 alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, and known under the CTFA name "tallowtrimonium chloride", in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 9 H 19 -C 6 H 4 -(OC 2 H 4 ) 10 -OH, known under the CTFA name "Nonoxynol 10".
  • Use may also be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 13 H 27 -(OC 2 H 4 ) 12 -OH, known under the CTFA name "trideceth-12".
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (C) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 8 H 17 -C 6 H 4 -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) 40 OH, known under the CTFA name "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: C 12 H 25 -(OCH 2 -CH 2 ) 6 -OH, known under the CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.
  • Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning
  • silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferred to choose the silicone(s) from among non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups chosen from amino silicones, and silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from amino silicones.
  • the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of silicones.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferentially 0.1%).
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the non-silicone fatty substance(s) are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and non-silicone animal, plant, mineral or synthetic oils other than the abovementioned esters.
  • fatty alcohol means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohol containing at least 8 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 40 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R preferably denotes a C 8 -C 40 and preferably C 12 -C 24 alkyl or a C 8 -C 40 and preferably C 12 -C 24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25°C.
  • the term "fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 25°C” means a fatty alcohol that has a viscosity, measured with a rheometer (for example an R600 rheometer) at a shear rate of 1 s -1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.
  • the fatty alcohols used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • the fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.
  • R is a C 7 -C 29 alkyl or C 7 -C 29 alkenyl group and better still a C 12 -C 24 alkyl or C 12 -C 24 alkenyl group.
  • R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.
  • the fatty acid may be chosen in particular from lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid and stearic acid.
  • the fatty acid In order to be considered as a fatty acid, the fatty acid must not be in soap form, i.e. it must not be salified.
  • non-silicone oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol which are advantageously different than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12 -C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate;
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 , and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include:
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances chosen from fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty substance(s) may be present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may also contain one or more polymers, preferably nonionic or cationic polymers.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers.
  • cationic polymer denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
  • the cationic polymers that may be present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from any of those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e. especially those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846 , 2 383 660 , 2 598 611 , 2 470 596 and 2 519 863 .
  • the polymer(s) are chosen from non-silicone polymers.
  • the cationic polymers that are preferred are chosen from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which may either form part of the main polymer chain or be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.
  • the cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 ⁇ 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3 ⁇ 10 6 approximately.
  • cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
  • the polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • X - is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 1000 and 100 000.
  • R 10 , R 11 , R 12 and R 13 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 8 approximately, and X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Mention may be made in particular of Mexomer PO sold by the company Chimex.
  • D may be nothing or may represent a group -(CH 2 ) r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and X - is an anion.
  • Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in US patents 4 157 388 , 4 702 906 and 4 719 282 . They are especially described in Patent application EP-A-122 324 .
  • examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol A 15, Mirapol AD1, Mirapol AZ1 and Mirapol 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use polymers of families (1), (2), (3), (4), (9), (10) and (12).
  • the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic celluloses and cationic guar gums.
  • the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic guar gums and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole optionally combined with other monomers.
  • the cationic polymer(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • compositions of the invention preferably comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with keratin fibres, such as the hair.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium is formed from water or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as those of the invention, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers such as those of the invention, and mixtures thereof.
  • C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as those of the invention, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and polyethylene glycols
  • polyol ethers such as those of the invention, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of water which is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of water greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 95% and preferentially less than or equal to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic solvents may be present in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 40% and better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 11.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; ceramides or pseudoceramides; sequestrants; solubilizers; proteins; reducing agents or antioxidants; oxidizing agents; vitamins or provitamins; cationic or amphoteric polymers; fragrances; pH stabilizers, preserving agents other than those of the invention; and permanent or temporary dyes such as natural or synthetic direct dyes (base or coupler), or mixtures thereof.
  • standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; ceramides or pseudoceramides; sequestrants; solubilizers; proteins; reducing agents or antioxidants; oxidizing agents; vitamins or provitamins; cationic or amphoteric polymers; fragrances; pH stabilizers, preserving agents other than those of the invention; and permanent or temporary dyes such as natural or synthetic direct dyes (base or coupler),
  • the thickener(s) may be chosen from cellulose-based thickeners, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and derivatives thereof, for example the hydroxypropyl guar sold by the company Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for example Carbomer, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.
  • cellulose-based thickeners for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose
  • the thickener(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from cellulose-based thickeners, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses.
  • the thickener(s) are chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain any preserving agents other than those of the invention.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may be used for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair, for example as shampoos or hair conditioners.
  • compositions of the invention are rinse-out or leave-in hair conditioners.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, gels or lotions.
  • a subject of the invention also consists of the use of the cosmetic composition as described above for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the conditioning, of keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as described above to the said fibres, and optionally in rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time.
  • 1 to 50 g and preferably 5 to 20 g of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres.
  • compositions described above may be used on any type of hair: light or dark hair, natural hair or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be used on wet or dry hair. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is applied to clean hair.
  • the leave-on time of the cosmetic composition on the hair may be between a few seconds and 30 minutes, preferably between 10 seconds and 15 minutes and even more preferentially between 1 minute and 10 minutes.
  • the application to the hair of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.
  • the cosmetic composition is preferably rinsed out.
  • the application of the composition is followed by drying at room temperature or at a temperature above 40°C.
  • the drying may be performed immediately after the application or after a leave-on time that may range from 1 minute to 30 minutes.
  • the hair is dried, in addition to using a supply of heat, with a flow of air.
  • This flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the coating.
  • a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or by running the fingers through the hair.
  • the drying step of the process of the invention may be performed with a hood, a hair dryer or a straightening iron.
  • the drying temperature is between 40 and 110° and preferably between 50 and 90°.
  • the drying temperature is between 110 and 220° and preferably between 130 and 200°.
  • compositions (A) according to the invention and a comparative composition (B) are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
  • Compositions A (invention) B comparative) Mixture of cetyl alcohol (>95%), stearyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol (Lanette 16 from Cognis) 3.7 3.7 Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR from Aqualon) 1 1 Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride as a solution in isopropanol containing 80% AM (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) 0.5 0.5 Calcium chloride dihydrate 4 4 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 - Caprylyl glycol 0.3 - Water qs 100% qs 100%
  • composition (A) according to the invention has a creamy, white, glossy, uniform appearance and is stable on storage. The microbiological protection over time of composition (A) is satisfactory.
  • compositions (A) and (B), as a function of the length of the hair are applied.
  • sensitized hair means hair that has undergone prior chemical or physical treatments.
  • the hair is rinsed, combed and then dried by blow-drying or in the open air.
  • hair treated with cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention is smooth, supple and fine.
  • hair treated with cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention dries quickly.
  • hair treated with cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention is smooth, shiny, light and fine, and has a silky feel.
  • compositions (C)-(D) and (F) are not part of the invention.
  • Composition (E) according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
  • compositions C D E F Mixture of cetyl alcohol (>95%), stearyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol (Lanette 16 from Cognis) 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR from Aqualon) 1 1 1 1 1 Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride as a solution in isopropanol containing 80% AM (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Calcium gluconate 8 - - - Calcium acetate - - - 4 Calcium lactate - 6 - - Calcium chloride dihydrate - - 4.5 - Phenoxyethanol 1 1 - 1 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 Diethylene glycol monobenzyl ether - - 1.5 - Hexylene glycol - - 0.5 - Water qs 100%

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Claims (8)

  1. Composition cosmétique pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, comprenant :
    - un ou plusieurs éthers de polyol contenant un ou plusieurs groupements aromatiques choisis parmi le monophényléther d'éthylène glycol (ou phénoxyéthanol), le diphényléther d'éthylène glycol, le monobenzyléther d'éthylène glycol, le monophényléther de propylèneglycol, le monobenzyléther de propylène glycol, le monophényléther de diéthylène glycol, le monobenzyléther de diéthylène glycol, le monophényléther de dipropylène glycol et le monobenzyléther de dipropylène glycol et leurs mélanges, dans une teneur allant de 0,05 à 2% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition,
    - un ou plusieurs diols en C4-C10 non aromatiques et non éthérifiés dans une teneur allant de 0,05 à 2% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition,
    - un ou plusieurs sels hygroscopiques dans une teneur allant de 2 à 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de ladite composition ; le sel hygroscopique étant le chlorure de calcium.
  2. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'éther de polyol contenant un ou plusieurs groupements aromatiques est le phénoxyéthanol.
  3. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les diols en C4-C10 non aromatiques et non éthérifiés sont choisis parmi le 1,3-butylène glycol, le 1,4-butanediol, le 1,2-butanediol, le 2,3-butanediol, le pentylèneglycol (ou 1,2-pentanediol), le 1,5-pentanediol l'hexylène glycol, le 1,2-hexanediol, le 1,6-hexanediol, le 1,2-octanediol (ou caprylyl glycol) et leurs mélanges.
  4. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que le ou les diols en C4-C10 non aromatiques et non éthérifiés sont choisis parmi les 1,2 diols en C4-C10 non aromatiques et non éthérifiés et leurs mélanges.
  5. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le diol en C4-C10 non aromatique et non éthérifié est le caprylyl glycol.
  6. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend en outre une ou plusieurs silicones et/ou un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliconés choisis parmi les alcools gras, les esters gras, les acides gras et les huiles non siliconées animales, végétales, minérales ou synthétiques.
  7. Procédé de traitement cosmétique des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, caractérisé en ce que l'on applique une quantité efficace d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, sur les dites fibres kératiniques, à éventuellement rincer après un éventuel temps de pose.
  8. Utilisation de la composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6 pour le conditionnement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des fibres kératiniques humaines telles que les cheveux, en particulier comme après-shampoing.
EP11764148.0A 2010-09-24 2011-09-23 Composition cosmétique comportant au moins un sel hygroscopique, un éther de polyol aromatique et un diol, et procédé de traitement cosmétique Active EP2618801B2 (fr)

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FR1057712A FR2965174B1 (fr) 2010-09-24 2010-09-24 Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un sel hygroscopique, au moins un ether aromatique de polyol et au moins un diol, procede de traitement cosmetique
US39028010P 2010-10-06 2010-10-06
PCT/EP2011/066601 WO2012038536A2 (fr) 2010-09-24 2011-09-23 Composition cosmétique comportant au moins un sel hygroscopique, un éther de polyol aromatique et un diol, et procédé de traitement cosmétique

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DE102014217311A1 (de) * 2014-08-29 2016-03-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Konditionierendes Haarreinigungsmittel
US11213470B2 (en) 2015-11-24 2022-01-04 L'oreal Compositions for treating the hair
US11135150B2 (en) 2016-11-21 2021-10-05 L'oreal Compositions and methods for improving the quality of chemically treated hair
US11433011B2 (en) * 2017-05-24 2022-09-06 L'oreal Methods for treating chemically relaxed hair
CN111526862A (zh) 2017-12-29 2020-08-11 欧莱雅 用于改变毛发颜色的组合物
US11090249B2 (en) 2018-10-31 2021-08-17 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions, methods, and kits for treating hair
US11419809B2 (en) 2019-06-27 2022-08-23 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions and methods for treating hair
MX2023000870A (es) 2020-07-21 2023-05-19 Chembeau LLC Formulaciones cosmeticas de diester y usos de las mismas.

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WO2012038536A2 (fr) 2012-03-29
US20130280199A1 (en) 2013-10-24
FR2965174B1 (fr) 2013-04-12
FR2965174A1 (fr) 2012-03-30
WO2012038536A3 (fr) 2012-08-23
EP2618801A2 (fr) 2013-07-31

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